Electric plug: how to connect, repair, adapt. Electrical plug and its replacement

To modern man It is difficult to do without electrical appliances. Computer, refrigerator, washing machine, coffee maker, iron - it’s too much to list. Some devices run on batteries, but most still plug into the network. This means they have a cord and a plug that plugs into an outlet. For devices to last a long time, the electrical connection system must be in order. But it is not always possible to contact a workshop if a pin has melted or a screw has become loose. How to fix an electrical plug? We will talk about this in our article.

Is it possible to take it apart?

Before you repair a socket plug, you need to understand whether it can be disassembled or not.

Important! Of course, it’s impossible to repair a non-separable one; it has to be replaced immediately, sometimes along with the cord.

There are several types of collapsible forks. Unfortunately, there is no single global standard for similar devices does not exist, and this causes a lot of problems. For example, you bought a device abroad, you are trying to turn it on, but the pins do not fit in because the distance between them is greater or less than that at which the holes are located at the socket. Or there is an additional rod of an incomprehensible shape, which there is nowhere to stick.

You can use an adapter, but most often in such cases the plug is removed:

• unscrews;
• trimmed.

To repair an electrical plug in this situation, replace the old one with a new one that is suitable specifically for your outlet. Such an operation usually has no effect on the operation of the device.

What types of non-separable forks are there?

Now all devices are produced with non-separable plugs. However, many users still have collapsible ones - on old devices, which, despite their age, work great.

Depending on where the unit is made, you can read on the markings:

• CEE 7/16;
• CEE 7/17.

Important! Although there are four standard type markings, there are only two types of forks. In Russia they comply with GOST 7396.1-89. The first two are Russian, the third and fourth are European. In this case, the C5 fork corresponds to CEE 7/16, and the C6 corresponds to CEE 7/17.

What else is on the label?

You can find other data on the plug body:

1. maximum permissible current;
2. maximum permissible voltage.

The first value means that the electrical appliance will operate from a network where the current strength is less than or equal to the specified one. The same applies to voltage - if it is higher, the device may burn out.

Important! In every house, decorated in accordance with modern trends design and practical preferences of residents, there is certainly a large arsenal of different household appliances. To make their use safe for both devices and people, we also recommend reading about different types sockets:

C5 and CEE 7/16

These are plugs with round pins. The diameter of the rods is 0.4 cm. The distance between the pins at the ends is slightly larger than near the bases. The rods have 1 cm insulation from the body. These plugs do not have a grounding contact. Estimated current is 6 A, device power is 1200-1300 W.

C6 and CEE 7/17

The pins of these plugs are also round, but their diameter is larger - 0.48 cm. Some models have a grounding pin, others do not. This device can withstand a current of 10 A and is designed for a power of 2200 W.

Important! Collapsible plugs can withstand current up to 6 A and power 1300 W. They can be either with or without grounding.

How does a non-separable fork work?

If you have a question about how to make a plug for an outlet, first try to understand: what exactly can be repaired? All non-separable forks are similar:

1. they have pins;
2. the pins are installed in the bar;
3. distance between rods – 1.9 cm;
4. conductors are pressed into rods;
5. there are 2 protrusions on the bar for the outline, which are made so that the cord does not break;
6. the rods along with the wire are filled with molten plastic.

Important! A non-separable fork has its advantages:

• tightness;
• strong fixation of pins.

No moisture gets inside, so such a plug is much less likely to burn out or cause an electric shock. The pins do not fall out, and this also increases safety. There is only one drawback to such a device - if it burns out, there is nothing to disassemble, you have to replace the whole thing.

How does a collapsible fork work?

A removable plug is very useful if you need to replace a non-removable one, but you don’t want to change the cord or even throw away the electrical appliance. You can still buy one at an electrical store. In addition, it can be removed from the old table lamp or a broken ancient refrigerator.

The design of a removable plug without grounding is quite simple. She has:

• 2 body halves;
• 2 rods (usually brass);
• clamping bar;
• fastener

The grounding-type plug has some differences:

1. Contact pads are installed on the pins.
2. The contact pads are threaded; they are needed to screw the wires.
3. The case has a grounding contact - a brass strip.
4. The ground pin has a thread to screw on the conductor.
5. The clamping bar is made with a plastic gasket.

Let's talk about malfunctions

As a rule, cast forks last as long as the devices themselves, unless you maliciously violate operating and safety rules. Such forks have to be changed in following cases:

1. If the conductor was crimped poorly into the pin at the factory.
2. If the cord is frayed in the place where it is connected to the body.

We are looking for the place of damage

Quite often, a breakdown can be detected with a simple inspection. There are only two signs:

1. The cord bends sharply.
2. The shell is swollen.

Important! If you can’t find the defect right away, you’ll have to pick up a tester. True, in order to ring the wires, you need to get to their opposite ends. This is possible with some devices, but not with all.

If you can’t disconnect the wire, you need a very ordinary metal sewing needle, not particularly thick:

1. Gently pull the wire and plug in opposite directions - this is necessary to prevent accidental contact of the ends of the broken conductor.
2. Pierce the insulation with a needle where one of the conductors passes.
3. Ring the chain “needle - fork rod”.
4. If there is no defect on the first conductor, ring the second.

Checking with a phase indicator

For this you will also need a needle. You need to check it very carefully - under no circumstances touch the needle with an unprotected hand:

1. Pierce the insulation.
2. Plug the plug into the socket - there should be a phase on the wire you are checking. Touch the needle with the phase indicator.
3. If the indicator does not light, there is a break.
4. Check the second conductor.
5. Pull the plug.
6. Pull out the needle.

Important! The holes will quickly close up after you remove the needle.

If the wire is ok

It may turn out that you will not find a broken wire. This means that you need to look for the problem somewhere else. Where?

Quite often the plug does not work if there is poor contact in the socket. For example, it hardly comes into contact with the contacts. In this case, the process goes like this:

1. A lot of heat is generated.
2. The pin is overheating.
3. The body is melted or charred.
4. The pin begins to swing.

To determine how good the contact between the pin and the socket is, you don’t need to disassemble anything at all. After the device has been working and you unplug it from the outlet, simply touch the rods. They should be warm, but not hot. If the temperature is too high, take care of the outlet - it needs to be repaired urgently.

What happened to the collapsible fork?

How to examine the device, and most importantly, how to assemble the socket plug so that there is no unnecessary details? Well, first of all, understand what kind of malfunctions there are. They are the same as for cast forks.

But there is also a specific defect - poor contact of the cord with the rods or its complete absence. The wires do not fit tightly when there is no spring washer. As a result, a gap appears, the contact weakens, and heat, on the contrary, begins to be released more intensely. This is especially true for older devices.

Important! Poor contact can cause the housing to melt or even char.

There is only one repair method - change the plug.

If the case is intact, the device can be repaired. You will need:

• screwdriver;
• fasteners to replace oxidized ones;
• sandpaper;
• sharp knife:
• paper;
• camera.

It is very important for a novice electrician not to lose details and remember what was unscrewed at what moment. For this you need a camera and a sheet of paper (preferably white). It is useful to film each operation, and to lay out what was pulled out of a fork or other device. White list. The details, however, are in in this case there will be very little:

1. Unscrew the screw.
2. Divide the body into 2 parts.
3. Sand the wire where it connects to the pin with sandpaper.
4. If the wire is burnt, cut off the damaged piece, strip the ends and connect to the pins.
5. Replace screws and washers if there is scale on them.
6. Connect the body halves.
7. Install the screw and tighten it.

How to change the plug?

First you need to understand what kind of fork you need. This depends on a number of circumstances:

• device power;
• the need for grounding;
• current strength in the electrical network.

Usually the most the best option– buy the same part as it was. Of course, unless the device was brought from somewhere very distant, where manufacturers do not consider it necessary to adhere to the usual rules.

1. Prepare the cord - cut it at a distance of 3-5 cm from the plug.
2. Remove the insulation to a length of 2 cm.
3. Form rings at the ends of the conductors.
4. Insert screws into the rings that already have groovers and flat washers on them.
5. Screw the screws into both pins until they are tight.
6. Place the pins in the housing, in special recesses.
7. Place a strip over the wire.
8. Press the bar to the body using two screws.
9. Place a rubber tube (polyvinyl chloride will also work) where the wire exits the plug.
10. Connect the body halves.
11. Tighten them with a screw and nut.

Important! The halves should fit tightly against each other; the gap, if there is one, must be eliminated by moving the wires inside the plug.

Three cores

Some electrical appliances need to be grounded. Their wire has three cores. The one for grounding is usually painted green color. The repair itself is done in exactly the same way - you need to cut off the insulation, form rings, insert pins and fasten with screws and washers.

Important! If the socket has a ground connection, but the wire does not, then the ground contact remains free.

How to extend the wire?

Sometimes this has to be done, especially if there is no collapsible plug at hand, but there is a broken electrical appliance that can be cut off the required part along with a piece of wire. By the way, this will allow you to slightly lengthen the cord of the device you are repairing.

Operating procedure:

1. Cut the cord and plug from the broken device - preferably to the maximum possible length. If extensions are not intended, it is enough to leave a piece of 15 cm.
2. Cut the sheath of the cords lengthwise by 10 cm without damaging the insulation.
3. Pull the wires out without cutting the sheath.
4. You will most likely see three wires - red (brown), blue (cyan) and green: phase, neutral and ground.
5. Adjust the length of the conductors - the places of twists should be 2-2.5 cm apart from each other.
6. Remove the insulation from each wire by 1.5 cm. However, if one wire has a green wire and the other does not, the insulation cannot be removed from it.
7. Connect single-color wires with twists - three turns are enough.
8. Solder the wires.
9. Clean the solder joints, removing protrusions and sharp edges.

In this article we have covered everything possible breakdowns plugs and cords of various devices, as well as methods for repairing these parts. Remember that you should only begin repairing electrical equipment, even such simple elements, if you understand the principle of their operation and know the safety precautions.

Electric plug- this is a plug product designed for quick connection and disconnection electrical appliances from the mains.

Any electrical appliance is connected to electrical network through an outlet using a cord with a power plug at the end. There is no international standard for plugs; it happens that electrical appliances are brought from other countries with plugs that cannot be inserted into the sockets installed in the apartment. You have to buy an adapter or cut the plug and install a suitable one on the cord. This is not a difficult, but responsible job, since the reliability of the electrical appliance as a whole depends on its correct implementation.

Types of electrical plugs

Currently, in Russia, all electrical appliances are produced with cords at the end with two types of permanent plugs, type C, in accordance with GOST 7396.1-89. The body of each plug is usually marked with a marking indicating its specifications– maximum value permissible current and permissible supply voltage. This does not mean that this electrical appliance consumes such a current, but only indicates that the plug is designed to transmit current up to the specified value.

C5(analogue of European electrical plugs CEE 7/16) - with round pins with a diameter of 4 mm, converging slightly towards the free ends, the pins are insulated to a length of 10 mm from the body, without a grounding contact. The C5 plug is designed for a load current of up to 6 A (with a supply voltage of 220 V it can withstand a power of 1300 W).

C6(analogous to European plugs CEE 7/17) - with round pins with a diameter of 4.8 mm, there are three-pole with a grounding contact and two-pole without a grounding contact. The C6 plug is designed for a load current of up to 10 A (with a supply voltage of 220 V it can withstand a power of 2200 W).

There are still many devices in use with cords equipped with collapsible plugs like C1-b with round pins with a diameter of 4 mm without a grounding contact and designed for a load current of up to 6 A (with a supply voltage of 220 V it can withstand a power of 1300 W).

Electrical plug arrangement

Non-removable electrical plug device

The design of non-removable electrical plugs of any type is the same. The pins are installed at a distance of 19 mm into a plastic strip and conductors are pressed into them. There are two protrusions on the bar that serve to guide the wire. The bypass is necessary to prevent the plug cord from breaking if significant force is applied to it. For example, removing a plug from an electrical outlet by the wire, which is strictly prohibited.

The pins and wire are filled with molten plastic. This creates a sealed, waterproof plug housing with the power cord securely fixed in it.

Device of a collapsible three-pole electrical plug

In the recent past, only dismountable plugs were used to connect electrical appliances to the electrical network. And even now a large number of them are still in operation. You cannot do without a collapsible fork if you need to replace a failed cast one. The good thing about a collapsible fork is that it can be used multiple times. It can be easily removed from an unnecessary electrical appliance and installed on another cord during repairs.

Device of a collapsible electrical plug C1-b

In front of you is a plug of type C1-b, disassembled into its component parts, designed for connecting electrical appliances with a power of up to 1200 W to the electrical network.

It consists of two body halves, two brass pins, a cord clamp and fasteners.

Device of a collapsible electrical plug C6

Let's consider the device of a collapsible plug with a grounding contact of type C6, designed for connecting electrical appliances with a power of up to 2200 W. Contact pads with threads for screwing wires are pressed onto the brass pins of the plug. The pins themselves are fixed to the base of the plug.

The housing has a grounding contact in the form of a brass strip with a thread for securing the grounding conductor. There is a strip for fixing the wire with a plastic gasket.

Malfunctioning electrical plugs

The plugs are designed simply and, if the cord is connected correctly and the rules of their operation are followed, they reliably perform their intended function until the end of the life of the electrical appliance. But failures still happen.

Malfunctions of molded electrical plugs

The need to replace cast forks may arise in the following cases. Poor quality crimping of the conductor into the pin at the manufacturer, fraying of the cord at the point where it exits the plug body and due to a malfunction of the socket. More often, the cord frays in electrical appliances with C5 plugs, which are moved intensively during operation, such as a hair dryer, mixer, soldering iron and many others.

Upon careful inspection, it is sometimes possible to visually detect the location of damage by a sharp bend in the cord when it is bent or the insulation bulges. If inspection fails to identify a defect, then you need to ring the wires with a tester. This requires reaching opposite ends of the wire, which is not always possible. You can use a thin sewing needle, pierce the insulation where one conductor passes first, and ring the pin-needle circuit. If the wire is intact, ring the second conductor. To prevent accidental contact of the wire at the break point during dialing, you can lightly pull the wire and plug in opposite directions.

You can also check the integrity of the wire with a phase indicator. Attention! You need to work very carefully so as not to get an electric shock. Touching a needle stuck into a wire with your bare hand while the plug is inserted into the socket is deadly! You need to pierce the insulation, insert the plug into the socket so that there is a phase on the wire being tested. Touch the phase indicator to the needle, if there is no light in the indicator, the wire is broken. The second conductor is also checked. Inserting and removing the needle is done with the plug removed from the socket.

If the wires are intact, the fault must be looked for elsewhere. Since the needle is thin, after its removal the hole will close; there is no need to isolate the puncture site.

I took photographs while repairing a failed hair dryer. As it turned out, one of the conductors inside the plug, in its flexible place, had frayed. I had to cut the cord where it came out of the plug and connect the wires to a new collapsible plug using the method described below.

The plug may also fail due to poor contact in the socket into which it was inserted. If the pin does not make good contact with the contacts in the socket, a lot of heat is generated, the pin heats up and melts or even chars the body of the plug at the point of contact with it. As a result, the pin will begin to swing, which is not acceptable. The plug has to be replaced.

To check the reliability of contact between the pins of the plug and the socket, after finishing the operation of the electrical appliance, you need to remove the plug from the socket and immediately touch the pins with your hand. If they are slightly warm, then this is normal, but if they are very hot, then the socket needs to be repaired or replaced.

Malfunctions of collapsible electrical plugs

Collapsible plugs suffer from the same problems as non-removable plugs, but in addition, collapsible plugs often fail due to poor contact between the cord conductors and the pins. The reason is a violation of the tightness of the wires to the pins due to the lack of a spring washer. Over time, due to temperature changes, a gap forms, the contact is broken and the thermal energy. The spring washer selects this gap, which ensures long-term reliable operation forks.

If there are poor contacts in the plug, its pins become very hot and melt the body to the point of charring. A plug with a charred body cannot be used and must be replaced. If the housing is not damaged, then you should disassemble the plug, clean the wire and the place of its contact with the pin with sandpaper until shiny. If the wire is badly burned, then you need to cut off the damaged part to the length of the insulation fragility and connect it using the below recommended technology. The screws and washers also need to be replaced. As a rule, they are highly oxidized, and it is impossible to remove scale from them.

How to change an electrical plug on a wire

If there is a need to replace the plug on the wire, then you first need to decide on its type, based on the power consumption of the electrical appliance and the need for its grounding. To avoid any hesitation, it is best to replace the faulty electrical plug with a plug of the same type.

How to change the electrical plug on C1-b

If there is a need to replace the plug on the cord, then you need to start by preparing the ends of the wires for connection. To do this, you need to cut the cord at a distance of 3-5 cm from the plug. If the plug became very hot due to poor contact, then usually the insulation of the wire at the exit from the plug becomes rigid and this part of the wire must be removed. Next, the insulation is removed from the wires to a length of about 20 mm and rings are formed at its ends. Screws are inserted into the rings, onto which first spring (growers) and then flat washers are first put on. A Grover is a must.

Then the screw is screwed into the pin until it stops. The wire is connected to the second pin in the same way. The pins are installed in the housing with protrusions in special round recesses. Next, a strip is placed on the wire and pressed to the body with two screws. If the wire insulation is thin, then to prevent it from chafing at the point where it exits the plug, it is advisable to put a rubber or PVC tube over the insulation.

All that remains is to connect the halves of the housing and tighten them with a screw and nut. If the halves do not completely touch, it means that the wires running next to the tightening screw are in the way, you need to move them away. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws on the rings a little, turn the wire and tighten the screws back. If you do not do this, you may break the plug when tightening. If you connect a cord that has three wires to a two-pole plug, then the conductor yellow - green colors (grounding) should be stripped of insulation and do not need to be connected anywhere.

How to change an electrical plug to a three-pole C6

Preparing the ends of the wires for connection to the three-pole plug C6 of the cord is carried out in the same way as for plug C1-b. The assembly technology is also similar. The main thing is that if the grower fork is not included in the kit, be sure to find and install these spring washers. To connect the cord to the plug, you need to insert screws with washers into the ends of its wires, previously formed into rings, and firmly screw them to the contact pads of the plug. Note, yellow - green The wire may only be connected to the grounding contact. It is usually located in the middle between the contact pads of the pins.

If the cord is two-wire and does not contain yellow - green wires, the ground contact in the plug is left free.

How to replace a faulty electrical plug C5 or C6
using wire extension

In practice, you may encounter a situation where the power plug has failed, an electrical appliance is urgently needed, and there is no collapsible plug at hand to replace it. It’s a long way to get to the store, and not every village has an electrical goods store. But even from this it seemed hopeless situation, there is a simple way out.

Almost every household has some kind of faulty electrical appliance, for example, Electric kettle. You can take a plug from it for repair and replace the faulty one according to the instructions below.

The photo shows old stand for an electric kettle, from which comes a wire with a C6 molded plug at the end. The length of the power cord for electric kettles is usually short, but, nevertheless, if the length of the cord of the electrical appliance whose plug needs to be replaced was insufficient, then you can take the opportunity to make the cord longer. In this case, you need to bite off the wire from the electric kettle stand; it will leave it maximum length. Sometimes at the bottom of the stand a piece of wire is wound onto a spool. Therefore, its length may be greater than apparent. If you do not need to extend the cord of an electrical appliance, then it is enough to leave about 15 centimeters of the cord.

Next, you need to carefully, so as not to damage the insulation of the wires, cut the sheath of the cords lengthwise to a length of about 10 cm and pull the wires out of the sheath. Attention, there is no need to cut off the shell. There are usually three wires in a standard cable different colors. Brown(phase), light blue(zero) and yellow - green(grounding conductor).

At the next step, it is necessary to adjust the length of the conductors so that the places of future twists of the wires are shifted relative to each other by a couple of centimeters. When adjusting the lengths of the wires, you need to take into account that they are connected to each other in mandatory The wires must be the same color.

Next, the insulation is removed from the wire cores to a length of about 15 mm. If one of the cables is missing yellow - green wire, then the insulation should not be removed from the existing one, since it cannot be connected anywhere. He must remain free.

In the next step, the copper strands of the wires, stripped of insulation, are connected to each other using the twisting method. For good contact, three turns of entanglement are enough.

For reliable long-term contact between the wires, they must be soldered with solder using a soldering iron. To remove possible sharp solder protrusions and wire ends, the soldering area must be treated with sandpaper. If you do not solder the twists, then when high power electrical appliance, contact may break over time.

You can do without soldering if, before twisting, you put pieces of thin-walled copper or brass tube with an internal diameter of slightly larger diameter wire insulation. After twisting the wires, move the tubes to the junction and flatten them in several places with side cutters.

Next, the connected wires are tucked into the previously cut sheath of one of the cables. There is no need to insulate the connections, since due to the shift of the twists, the exposed sections of the wires do not have the opportunity to touch.

Next, the connected wires are tucked into the previously cut sheath of one of the cables. There is no need to insulate the connections, since due to the shift of the twists, the exposed sections of the wires do not have the opportunity to touch. If the distance between the twists is less than 10 mm, then they need to be covered with insulating tape.

Now all that remains is to cover the cable connection with one layer of insulating tape, and the job will be finished.

As you can see, a working plug is installed on the cord of the electrical appliance using the wire extension method, and the electrical appliance can now be connected to the electrical network for further operation.

The spliced ​​cables were taken in white and black colors specifically for clarity. If you choose the color of the plug and PVC insulating tape to match the cable of the electrical appliance, the connection point will be almost invisible.

Which fork is better, collapsible or cast?

A reasonable question arises: which fork is better? Of course, cast. Its main advantage is the absence of low-reliability detachable mechanical contacts of the current-carrying wire with the pins of the plug. The conductors are connected in one of the following ways: welded spot welding, soldered or crimped. In addition, the plug is sealed, which increases the safety of its operation.

The only drawback is the impossibility of re-installation. If the wire frays at the point where it enters the plug, and this often happens with electrical appliances that have to be constantly moved during operation, for example electric hair dryer, then you will have to cut off the plug and throw it away, and install a collapsible one in its place. You can replace the entire cord with a new one with a molded plug, but then you will have to open the electrical appliance, which is not always possible.

Lawn mower fork repair

I was faced with the repair of a non-standard plug, the pins of which were pressed into the body of the switching unit of an electric lawn mower.

Due to the design features, it was not possible to replace the plug and we had to come up with a technology for fixing the pins.

Not only were the plug pins heavily oxidized from poor contact with the socket on the cord, but one of them was sunk into the plastic housing.

To secure the pins, it was necessary to disassemble the block, but I was faced with the fact that the self-tapping screws had slots with three oblique edges, allowing only the screw to be tightened. I had to heat the heads of the screws with a soldering iron and unscrew them with a flat-blade screwdriver of a suitable tire. After the repair, I screwed in other screws with heads under a standard cross.

The ends of the pins connected to the wires were located under the limit switch, which was fixed in the grooves of the block body.

After removing the switch, the recessed pin was heated with a soldering iron and returned to its original state. But the reliability of its fastening was low. When pressed with fingers, the pin swayed.

To prevent repeated breakage of the plug, the pins were filled on the wire connection side epoxy resin as shown in the photo.

After the resin had cured, the block was assembled and the pins were sanded using fine sandpaper. The test showed reliable operation of the unit. Now the pins of the plug, even in the case of strong heating, will not be able to move.

Adaptation of non-standard three-pole plugs

Sometimes from foreign countries They bring electrical appliances equipped with plugs that cannot be inserted into a socket, although according to the eclectic characteristics of the product, it can be connected to an existing electrical network. If the electrical wiring has a grounding conductor, then the way out is to connect the plug through an adapter - an adapter, but it still needs to be found, or cutting off a non-standard plug and replacing it with a collapsible C6. If there is no ground wire in the socket or the device does not require the first class of protection, then you can modify the plug yourself.

The issue of improving adapters for connecting cell phones, office equipment, laptops, since the pins come out directly from the adapter body, and it is not possible to replace them with a collapsible plug.

Adaptation of three-pole electrical plug IEC 60906-1

I came across a polarized plug standard SEV 1011 or IEC 60906-1, I can’t say for sure, since they are almost the same. The distance between the pins of the plug was 19 mm, the diameter of the pins was 4 mm, like the C5 plugs. But unlike the C5, there was an additional grounding pin that prevented the plug from being inserted into a socket.

I clamped the fork in a vice and carefully, so as not to damage the necessary pins, cut off the interfering pin with a metal hacksaw.

Without a grounding pin, the plug can now be easily inserted into any electrical outlet

Adaptation of English electrical plug BS 1363

When creating a home computer network, the Huba plug had to be modified. I got the hub by accident and was lying around idle, since it was impossible to connect it to a 220 V power supply due to a non-standard English BS 1363 plug.

As you can see in the photo, there are three pins in the BS 1363 plug of the hub adapter and they have a flat shape. Two pins located on one horizontal line are designed to supply power voltage, and the third, vertical, is intended for grounding and correct inclusion forks.

When measuring with a caliper, the width of the pin turned out to be 6.5 mm. The distance between the internal planes of the pins is 16 mm, which corresponds to the distance between the pins of the C5 plug, an analogue of the European CEE 7/16 plug. Thus, if you reduce the width of the flat pins of a BS 1363 plug with outside by 2.5 mm, then it will fit into any socket designed for C5 or C6 plugs. All that remains is to remove the third pin and excess metal from the pins.

The vertical pin, it turned out to be completely plastic, was clamped in a vice and sawed off using a hacksaw. The horizontal pins were also clamped in a vice and filed using a file to a width of 4 mm.

The photo shows the place where the vertical pin was and the left one was adjusted to the width. The sharp corners formed on the pin after filing must be blunted using fine sandpaper.

After removing the excess pin and reducing the width of the remaining pins, the BS 1363 English plug became adapted for connection to sockets designed to accept C5 plugs. Therefore, it was easy to connect the Hub to the power supply network.

Hi all. Today I am writing about how to replace the plug. I don't think there will be any problems with this big problems, but after analyzing the Internet I saw that the request was taking place. Recently, I accidentally broke the plug on the lamp, I had to replace the electrical plug, and in order to somehow diversify the process, I made a small photo report.

How to replace the plug yourself? Replacing the electrical plug

The plug is broken. This can happen not only with a lamp, it can be an iron, a vacuum cleaner, a refrigerator, a TV and any other household or industrial appliance.

This is how my old fork got sick.

The fork was not difficult to find. You can buy electric plugs at any hardware store. I think every home has a knife and a screwdriver.

We disassemble the fork, there were a lot of parts, but we left everything.

We cut off the old electrical plug and throw it away.

We cut and strip the cable. Be careful with the knife.

Cleaned the cable. If the core is multi-stranded, twist it more tightly so that later you get a ring without burrs.

We wrap the rings clockwise so that when the core is clamped with a screw, it does not fluff up.

We install the components into the electrical plug.

Assembling the fork. Now you understand why there are so many details? Everything is in my mind)))

Close the lid and you're done! We plug it into the outlet and the lamp works again.

In this case, it was possible to do without a screwdriver at all. It's simple.

Joke:

Most of our citizens can only fully relax from money.

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Cutlery that appears in a dream may have different interpretations. According to some dream books, a broken fork is not the most good sign. For example, Miller’s dream of a broken fork symbolizes misunderstanding between loved ones and possible quarrels.

What if you dream about a broken fork?

Very interesting interpretation You can find a version of the dream in which other popular cutlery appears along with the fork. For example, in combination with a spoon, it suggests that the sleeper will eventually be able to achieve his goals, but will have to actively fight for success and overcome various obstacles.

In general, this combination is considered quite favorable. Not surprising, because the spoon symbolizes good luck. Especially if in the dream it was beautiful, new and polished.

If a fork appears in company with a knife, then this is a less pleasant sign. It is a warning that the sleeper will soon be on life path may lie in wait conflict situations. To avoid problems, you should try your best to stay away from aggressive, quarrelsome people who try to provoke the dreamer and cause him to quarrel. If conflict cannot be avoided, then you should behave in it as calmly and restrainedly as possible.

To understand whether a dream is a warning about something bad or a negative sign, you must remember your emotional condition in him. If the person was joyful and satisfied, then there is definitely nothing to worry about, you can relax.

Silver cutlery in most cases are symbols of a beautiful rich life, luxury and financial well-being. If a person dreams of a broken silver fork, then such a dream can be considered a harbinger of material problems. Surely for a long time a person could afford not to think about money and live for his own pleasure. But this pleasant period is over.

There is a possibility that the sleeper will have to look new job, restart a previously successful but suddenly bankrupt business, or forget about a large debt. In any case, no matter how dark the beginning in financially black streak, it will definitely end. To ease your situation during a difficult period, you should learn to save, forget about unreasonable expenses, luxury and expensive gifts for loved ones. But even without all this, you can easily be happy and satisfied with life.

What does it portend?

If one of your relatives or close friends hands the dreamer a broken fork, then such a dream can be considered a harbinger of an imminent conflict with them. There is a possibility of even becoming enemies with your loved ones. Most likely, the conflict will arise on the basis of material wealth. True, it will not be easy to avoid it. You will need to control your words and actions in the near future, and also try not to lend money even to people you completely trust.

If a broken fork turned out to be dirty and a girl saw it in a dream, this means that small everyday problems await her at home and, possibly, quarrels with her husband and children over trifles. In addition, dirty cutlery can symbolize "unclean" people, such as unscrupulous and hypocritical people.

If a broken fork falls in a dream, it means that you can expect people to visit whom the dreamer absolutely does not want to see. Their visit will definitely not bring him joy. Rather, on the contrary, it may end in a serious quarrel.

If a person saw a broken fork in his dream, then to interpret it he will need to remember as much as possible more details and circumstances. Sometimes even the most insignificant little thing can be important for the solution. Therefore, it is best to write down all the details that remain in your memory right in the morning.