Placing plants on the site - planning the garden and vegetable garden. Layout of a Vegetable Garden for Planting Vegetables - Secrets of a Successful Harvest

Preface

In the struggle for the harvest, the hard work of the land owner is the most important factor, but not the only one. In order for the season to be as productive as possible, reasonable garden planning and soil preparation are required. What rules are used to guide this?

Garden and vegetable garden planning: purpose and first steps

When planning an estate, the following goals are pursued:

• arrange the house, garden and vegetable garden so that the latter is in the shade as little as possible;
• avoid the proximity of incompatible plants;
• place all objects in accordance with the standards in relation to the red line, neighboring areas and water sources;
• use all available space with maximum effect.

The site plan is drawn on paper. A convenient scale is 1:100. The drawing will turn out to be large, so you should prepare a sheet of whatman paper.

All the necessary dimensions are applied to the drawing, the planned objects are indicated - flower beds, gardens, paths, buildings, etc.

Objects already existing on the site are drawn, and new ones are cut out from another sheet of paper. By arranging them differently on the plan, it will be possible to consider several arrangement options.

If there is no house or outbuildings on the estate yet, planning begins with them. The following distribution of territory is considered optimal:

• house and adjacent residential area: 20%;
• outbuildings: no more than 15%;
• garden and vegetable garden: at least 65%.

When placing the house and outbuildings, take into account the following:

1. Areas near the road are preferable - it is easy to get here. The house is located closer to the street so that it is visible, the outbuildings are behind it, in the depths of the site.
2. A front garden with ornamental plants or berry bushes is laid out in front of the house.
3. It is advisable that the buildings be located on the north side of the site, without shading the garden.

When planning, it is necessary to maintain the distances specified by the standards:

• from the house to the red line - 5 m, to the fence of the neighboring plot - 3 m;
• from the windows of the house to household objects on the neighboring site - 6 m;
• minimum distances between buildings (for fire safety reasons): stone - 6 m, wooden - 15 m, mixed - 10 m;
• from the fence to the animal shed - 4 m;
• from the fence to other outbuildings - 1 m.

The playground is located so that it is clearly visible.

The playground for children should be clearly visible from the windows of the house

• no shadow from the trees fell on the garden;
• the garden protected the vegetable garden from the prevailing wind.

The finished drawing of the site allows you to approximately determine the volume and cost of soil preparation work.

Removing stumps and bushes

In the living area, the stump can be left as a decorative element or decorated as a table, chair or element of a children's playground.

a little imagination - the stump turns into a funny decoration of the site

In other cases, the stumps are uprooted. They do this in different ways:

1. Manually. The stump is dug up, exposing the upper roots, then they are cut off with an ax or shovel. Next, the stump is rotated around a vertical axis until the central root breaks. This method requires significant physical strength. It’s easier to uproot stumps with a winch. The process also begins with digging and cutting the roots, then the stump is hooked and pulled out, simultaneously cutting off the roots showing from the ground.
2. With the help of technology. This method is used when there are several stumps. Along with traditional equipment - excavators, bulldozers, tractors - special stump crushing machines are used. The work of the latter is expensive, but they do not spoil the landscape.
3. Chemical reagents.

The wood of a stump is corroded by the following substances:

• “Roundup” product: some time after treatment, the remnants of the stump are easily uprooted;
• urea: pour into drilled holes, fill with water and wrap the stump with polyethylene;
• sodium or potassium nitrate: used in the same way, it corrodes even deep roots.

The effect of saltpeter extends to other plants within a radius of 0.5 - 1 m, so before using it, the most valuable of them should be replanted.

Shrubs in small quantities are uprooted with a shovel and a pick, having previously dug up. On large areas they are removed mechanically in three stages:

• cut with a gasoline rotary brush cutter;
• roots are milled using a stump crusher;
• roots are removed using a tractor with a special plow, or less often with an excavator.

Chemicals used to kill bushes are called arboricides. These include the same “Roundup”, as well as “Tornado”, “Octopus”, “Fighter” and others. Most of them are based on the herbicide Glyphosate.

Drainage device

Often required in low-lying areas that are heavily flooded during rain. Some literally turn into a swamp and then dry out for a long time.

If there is a slight water cut, proceed as follows:

• on the border of the site at its lowest point, they dig a well 2.5–3 m deep;
• several trenches 1 m deep are dug on the site, directed from the upper zones to the well (the slope is 3–4 cm/m);
• fill the trenches halfway with crushed stone or pebbles (suitable construction waste and uprooted stumps) and cover the top with geotextiles;
• lay fertile soil on top of the geotextile.

The trenches can be filled with stones and completely, laid on top of sand or boardwalk paving slabs- these will be garden paths.

In case of severe watering, a complete drainage system is installed:

On areas without slope drainage well turns out to be especially deep. Then its walls are strengthened with supports and concreted. As the water is filled, the wells are pumped out with a pump.

Ground leveling

It is extremely inconvenient to work in an area riddled with uneven areas and you have to waste a lot of water for irrigation. Therefore, it is advisable to level the ground. In the simplest case, when the height difference is small, the area is cultivated, then leveled with a board or ladder, which is pulled by a rope.

If the terrain is very pronounced, they resort to removing soil from the hills and adding it to the depressions.

If the site has complex terrain, it will not be possible to level it without special equipment

It is more correct to do this in the fall: over the winter the soil will cake and in the spring it will be clear where improvement is needed. Alignment is carried out in three stages:

1. Mark the area. It is necessary to drive pegs into the ground at certain intervals and pull a cord between them - strictly horizontally and at the same height. To do this, marks are first made on the pegs using a water level (a transparent polymer tube filled with water).
2. Using the cord as a guide, they determine the hills and depressions, then transfer the soil. For large volumes, technology is used.
3. After waiting for the soil to settle (it will take a couple of weeks), trim the area with a rake.

The transferred soil easily erodes: in the absence of forest protection, the area must be closed with a fence.

Terracing

In areas with a slope of 15 degrees, horizontal steps - terraces - are formed. They are built from top to bottom, each time using the cut soil as the basis for the underlying step.

Each terrace is supported by a wall, which is called a retaining wall. The retaining wall is a critical element: if its strength is insufficient, the soil may collapse serious consequences. Therefore, construction should be carried out by an experienced specialist. The walls are built from stones and bricks, logs and even steel sheets on supports. A foundation is required.

After the steps are formed, reinforced concrete retaining walls are constructed

The maximum permissible height for a terrace is 1.5 m. The lower the height, the less durable and, accordingly, expensive retaining walls will be needed.

To climb from one terrace to another, stairs are arranged. The condition for choosing materials and design for them is harmonious combination with the appearance of a retaining wall. For safety reasons, stairs are equipped with handrails.

Installing terraces on a slope is a costly undertaking, but such a site looks impressive and is illuminated better than a flat site (if located on a southern slope).

Removing turf

If the site is used for planting cultivated plants for the first time, the existing turf ( top layer soil with grass) it is advisable to turn it into a valuable fertilizer. They do it like this:

• in the spring, the turf is cut with a shovel into pieces 10 cm thick and measuring 20x40 cm;
• inverted (roots up) the turf is stacked in stacks with a maximum width and height of 1.2 m, sprinkling each layer with lime;
• During the summer, the stacks are watered with liquid manure or at least water, and loosened 2-3 times.

The following year, the turf soil is used as fertilizer. If there is excess clay, it is diluted with sand.

If there are molehills, it is recommended to prepare turf soil from them - here it has high breathability and does not contain harmful insects.

The turf is cut into squares using a bayonet shovel, carefully removed and stacked upside down.

Organization of watering

For irrigation, a water pipeline is laid to the site. For year-round use (homesteads with permanent habitation), pipes are laid in trenches below the freezing depth. If they are polypropylene (PP), they must have a special reinforced design. You can recognize such pipes by orange color. For seasonal use pipes are laid on the surface. There is also a special UV-resistant PP for this purpose. It is distinguished by its black color.

In places where vehicles pass, pipes are laid on the surface in trays with durable covers that protect them from damage.

If there is no connection to a centralized water supply, when planning a garden, an autonomous water supply system is installed, using a natural reservoir, well or borehole as a source. A pumping station is used to supply water. Unlike a household one, it should be equipped not with a pressure switch, but with a flow sensor. When the tap is opened, the pump turns on automatically and runs indefinitely until the user turns off the water.

Water from a well or borehole should be checked for salt concentration: if there is an excess of salts, do not use water for irrigation - it causes salinization of the soil (hardens like stone).

Modern watering systems provide completely autonomous operation: soil moisture is analyzed by a sensor and, based on its signal, the equipment turns on when necessary.

Soil preparation

The soil on the site is tested for acidity. The exact pH will be determined by analysis in a special laboratory, where several samples should be taken with different zones plot. It can be approximately determined at home by pouring vinegar into a portion of the soil. Test results:

• bubbles are visible on the wetted surface of the sample - the soil is neutral;
• the sample absorbs vinegar without any manifestations - sour.

Soil pH is also determined by the vegetation growing on it:

• alkaline: coltsfoot, clover (white or ordinary), nettle, etc.;
• neutral: horsetail, mint, buttercup, etc.;
• sour: heather, plantain, sedge, ivan-da-marya, etc.

Reduce acidity (deoxidation) by adding compost, manure humus and wood ash. For the same purpose, dolomite flour and fluff lime are added, but this should be done in the fall.

Increase acidity by adding fresh sawdust and peat.

If the soil is not fertile, as evidenced by sparse vegetation, black soil or at least peat is brought to the site.

Garden planning

At the stage of planning a garden on a personal plot, the owner makes a list of all the trees and shrubs that he intends to plant. The number of seedlings is determined based on the available area, while the space for each of them is allocated taking into account the size of the adult tree. Plants average size require 2–3 m2, the largest - 4 m2.

A simple plan for laying out an orchard will significantly speed up the work on its implementation.

The compilation of the list and selection of location is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the crops:

1. The pear is the tallest fruit tree, so it can be planted in a shaded place, for example, behind a bathhouse. In a few years the tree will rise higher than her.
2. Cherries prefer acidic soil.
3. A suitable place for plum trees is one where the prevailing winds blow away the snow. Under snowdrifts higher than 40 cm, this tree succumbs.
4. For pear and apple trees, choose a place with a low groundwater level - 2 m or more. Otherwise, they will live no more than 10 years.
5. For stone fruits The minimum permissible groundwater depth is 1.5 m.

When choosing crops, the climate of the region is also taken into account. IN southern regions(Crimea, Astrakhan, Rostov regions, etc.) any perennial plants grow. Only a few, more prone to cool climates, grow poorly in hot conditions:

• blueberry;
• blueberry;
• coniferous trees.

The following are considered traditional for such latitudes:

• peach;
• quince;
• apricot;
• cherries;
• almond; walnut;
• grape.

Can be bred and exotic plants, for example, the mulberry, the berries of which are very tasty. Fruit trees are complemented by any berry bushes - gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, red and black currant, chokeberry.

In the middle zone (Bryansk, Tula, Voronezh region etc.) and the northern part (Altai, Buryatia, part of Karelia, etc.) when selecting crops, the so-called winter hardiness is taken into account - the ability to tolerate low temperatures. The following varieties are planted here (the maximum permissible subzero temperature is indicated in brackets):

1. Honey pear (-30 0 C): late variety.
2. Decor pear (-25 0 C): fruits ripen in September.
3. White-red columnar pear (-30 0 C): early variety.
4. Apricot Prince March (-30 0 C).
5. Red and black columnar cherries (-30 0 C).
6. Cherry Queen Mary (-30 0 C): gives good harvest, growing even in the shade.
7. Arbat apple tree (-30 0 C): the fruits ripen in early autumn.
8. Early grape varieties: Arcadia, Arch, Souvenir (-30 0 C).

There are two ways to plan a garden:

When planting regularly, the following distance is maintained between seedlings:

• dwarf varieties: between trees in a row - 2 m, between rows - 3 m;
• semi-dwarf: 3 m and 4 m, respectively;
• Large varieties: 4 m and 5 m, respectively.

To prevent fruit trees from casting a shadow on the garden, they are planted on the north side of the site. At the same time, the tallest ones, such as apple, pear, and walnut trees, are planted on the northwestern side, and the shortest ones, such as cherries, apricots and plums, are planted on the northeastern side. The fact is that photosynthesis occurs most intensively in the first half of the day. In addition, 12% more light falls on the surface of the earth at this time compared to the afternoon period, since the atmosphere is more transparent in the morning. Consequently, with such planting of trees at the most favorable time of the day, the low ones will not be shaded by the tall ones.

Trees are planted in spring or autumn. The choice of planting time depends on the variety: some take root better in the autumn, others in the spring. In the middle zone and northern regions in the fall they plant only the most winter-hardy varieties, since young seedlings are quite vulnerable to frost.

The diameter and depth of the hole depend on the type of soil:

• fertile soil: 0.5x0.5 m;
• infertile: 1x1 m.

For spring planting, holes are prepared in the fall: this is due to the fact that planting is required as early as possible - before the buds open.

If possible, berry bushes are planted between the vegetable garden and fruit trees. The timing of planting depends on the form in which the seedling was purchased:

1. Container (planted in a small container). Planted in spring or autumn depending on the variety.
2. With bare root system. Planted only in autumn.

The planting scheme for berry bushes includes the following stages:

1. Holes are made in the ground. Their depth when planting seedlings in containers is 1.5 times the height of the container. In the case of a bare root system, they are guided by a mark indicating how deep the seedling was during cultivation. The pit is also made 1.5 times deeper.
2. Immediately before planting (an hour and a half), the seedlings are prepared: in containers - watered abundantly, with bare roots - placed in containers with water.
3. The bottom of the hole is covered with humus and dug up with a pitchfork. The soil extracted during the formation of the hole (it is also used for backfilling) is also mixed with humus.
4. Having straightened the roots of the seedling so that they grow in all directions, it is lowered into the hole and sprinkled with a mixture of earth and humus. Then the earth is slightly compacted.
5. The next shrub is planted at a distance of 70–80 cm.

Video: when is the best time to plant seedlings of fruit and berry trees?

Vegetable garden layout

Most vegetables grow safely in different climatic zones. But you need to choose zoned varieties. Otherwise, the plants may wither from the heat or stop growing due to the cold. Short summer or lack of moisture will not allow you to harvest heat-loving varieties. In regions with such climatic conditions, it is advisable to build greenhouses and greenhouses.

When planning a range of crops, preference should be given to plants that require the same conditions for growth: this makes it easier to care for the city.

Productivity depends on where and how the greenhouse is installed. The most successful location is considered:

1. On higher ground, where it is drier.
2. In a well-lit place, not shaded by buildings or trees.
3. In the east-west direction (latitudinal).

This arrangement has the following advantages:

• the beds are illuminated evenly;
• sun rays fall on the wall of the structure almost perpendicularly, therefore the reflection coefficient is very small.

Installing a greenhouse in the north-south direction (meridian), in which a significant portion of the light is reflected and the beds are illuminated unevenly (the north side is worse), is acceptable only for greenhouses used exclusively in summer and south of the 60th latitude. In such conditions, the sun rises high and the disadvantages of the meridian location appear minimally.

It is correct to position the greenhouse from north to south - in this case it will be illuminated by the sun throughout the daylight hours

Vegetable beds are located in places not shaded by trees during the day. Orientation to the cardinal points depends on the water content of the area:

• in damp, low-lying areas: the beds are formed in the direction from south to north so that the row spacing is warmed by the sun;
• in dry areas: choose the direction “west - east” so that the row spacing remains in the shade and retains moisture longer.

According to the height of the beds, they are divided into:

• in-depth: used when it is not possible to frequently water the garden;
• at ground level: standard option, for normal conditions;
• raised (soil is poured into wooden frames): do not require soil preparation on the site, they are quickly warmed up by the sun (relevant for northern regions).

In addition to horizontal ones, vertical beds are also arranged: this arrangement of plants helps to significantly save space in small areas

Crop rotation

Plants differ in chemical composition, accordingly, each of them extracts its own set of microelements from the soil. Rational use soil consists of alternating various types plants in order to extract microelements evenly and give them the opportunity to recover. If you plant the same type of plant on a plot year after year, the soil will become depleted. In addition, pathogenic microorganisms characteristic of this plant develop in it.

The crop rotation cycle is 4 years. That is, each crop is replanted in a certain area only after 3 years. Based on this, the plot is divided into 4 parts, crops of 4 types are planted on them and then they are alternated according to the table.

Table 1: Crop rotation of garden crops traditionally grown in the garden

Plant compatibility

Some plants planted nearby inhibit each other, others do not have any mutual effect or even contribute to the development of the neighbor. So, when beans and peppers or carrots and dill are adjacent high yield can't wait. Corn, pumpkin and beans, on the other hand, go well together. Full information on crop compatibility is displayed in the table.

Table 2: plant compatibility

Video: mixed plantings

Growing plants in a limited area

A small plot requires a special approach so that all areas are used with maximum effect. Here's what to do in such conditions:

1. The garage is located right next to the road, so as not to allocate useful space to the entrance to it.
2. Berry bushes are planted around the perimeter of the site. When planting trees at the edge, you would still have to step back from the property line so that the branches do not block the street, and then the outermost strip would be unoccupied. It’s not scary if some of the bushes end up in shady place- lack of sun has almost no effect on their growth and productivity.
3. Instead of the usual fruit trees, columnar ones are planted. In such plants, the branches are directed upward, which allows them to be planted at a distance of 0.7 - 0.8 m from each other. On a plot of 5 sq. m can accommodate up to 15 columnar trees.
4. Plants that can grow in partial shade are planted among the trees. In the southern regions, even pumpkins, watermelons, zucchini and cucumbers can produce a good harvest under such conditions. In the central and northern regions there are only salads and greens. Thus, rhubarb, lettuce, sorrel, parsley, cilantro, spinach, Odessa curlew, watercress and others grow well in shaded areas. Wild garlic, which grows naturally under the trees, is a rich source of vitamins. Also unpretentious to lighting conditions borage(borage) and garlic. You can also plant beets: the root vegetables will be smaller, but more tender and easier to prepare.

Among the berry bushes, fragrant raspberries are not afraid of shade, blue honeysuckle, chokeberry, viburnum, irga.

Before spraying fruit trees, the greenery planted between them must be covered with polyethylene.

How to decorate your garden plot

In addition to performing a purely utilitarian function - growing crops - garden plot can become beautiful natural corner. Residents have the greatest ability to decorate their gardens southern regions. The following ornamental plants are traditionally grown here:

In the middle zone, gardens are decorated with plants:

1. Conifers: berry yew(form hedges), elfin cypress and juniper species.
2. Perennial flowers: hostas, callas, bergenia, heuchera.
3. Flowering shrubs: lilac, honeysuckle, weigella, paniculata hydrangea, rhododendron, garden jasmine, solar forsythia.
4. Plants for vertical gardening (form green wall): campsis, clematis, virgin grapes. The latter, having high winter hardiness, does not require shelter in cold weather.

In northern latitudes, two methods are used to improve the garden:

1. Local plants are planted - dwarf birch trees, berry bushes, raspberry trees, and coniferous crops growing in this region.
2. Ornamental plants are planted in containers and hidden in greenhouses for the winter, winter gardens or basements. In this case, the choice of crops is not limited, as long as the plants have small roots.

Terraced areas on slopes have great artistic potential. Besides ornamental plants they are decorated with waterfalls made of natural stone retaining walls, beautiful platforms and stairs.

Video: the best ideas and crafts for your own garden

Only a properly organized plot will bring a good harvest. As you can see, before mastering it, you have to answer a number of questions. By following our advice, the reader will be able to get the maximum benefit from his possessions.

Nowadays, more and more people are resorting to growing vegetable crops in and on country plots.

After all, only if we have received harvests from our beds can we have no doubt about the quality of the grown greens, root crops and vegetables.

And the cost of purchased vegetables is quite high, especially in winter.

The planning of an orchard begins with preparatory work.

In order for all vegetation to grow comfortably, it is necessary to take into account that the most favorable places are suitable for it according to its preferences for soil and lighting. Then you need to analyze the entire site in detail, this will help to rationally place objects of landscape style, this includes both completed construction and planting, as well as future ones.

When drawing a picture of your future site in your mind, you need to create a rough draft and not miss a single detail. It is recommended to immediately measure the dimensions of the area that is planned for fruit vegetation, estimating 4 square meters per tree. sites, and this is minimal.

It is better to choose flat or slightly flat terrain for the garden. You should choose a place for the garden that is located in the south, and if this is not possible, you need to choose something else, mainly sunny and not particularly shaded. It is necessary to carry out an analysis of the soil, for trees in comfortable fertile soils with normal acidity (chernozem or sandy loam).

You should also take into account the depth of groundwater, because this can negatively affect the root system of vegetation. You can outline a list of the names of crops that you would like to grow in your yard, study in detail the conditions of their growth to find out whether they will get along. Plan the number of ridges, consider whether you will need someone’s help or whether it is feasible to handle the plantings yourself.

Distribution of garden plantings into separate zones

On a blank piece of paper in your gardener’s diary you need to sketch out the garden’s proposal. It can be front, side or rear relative to the house, only trees and shrubs should grow from the north to the south for better lighting and have three parts.

The location of the zones should go one after another or be divided into three divided areas, which will be located at different ends of the common area of ​​the site:

• First. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in this zoning variation. In the first zone we are planting a vegetable garden; its vegetation will not shade the representatives of the second part, and in the mornings it will be endowed with its share of the sun.
• In the next zone, it is better to place berry gardens; their height does not exceed 1.5 meters. The shadow coming from the bushes in the morning will not interfere with the vegetation of the third part.
• In the third order part we plant fruit. It should be located at a distance of about 3 m from the previous one, so that there is no threat of shading.

In the diary you can record the names and main character of fruit and berry vegetation, and on a schematic plan indicate with numbers their location in the garden.

Layout of berry gardens

When laying out a berry garden on a site, you should schematically take into account the characteristics of the vegetation. Black currant grows normally surrounded by other vegetation, but sea buckthorn and viburnum do not get along with their neighbors, therefore, they are planted separately. Sea buckthorn bushes can perfectly replace a green fence, and viburnum and hawthorn will decorate the landscape in a leisure corner.

Some gardeners prefer to place berry gardens around the perimeter of the plot. In this form, part of the territory is freed up for other crops or for leisure areas, sports activities, etc. This layout is suitable if the land is not fenced with a green fence or the bushes with berries themselves will enclose the area with their presence.

The density of berry plantings is especially important. After all, it acts as a regulator of natural origin for optimal development vegetation, its resistance to disease and crop formation:

• Raspberries are planted in dense rows, with intervals of half a meter from each other and with intervals of a meter and a half in the rows. As the crimson vegetation grows, it fills the row-spacings; the former row-spacings are cleared of overgrowth and serve as non-permanent paths. They change the location of the crops by pruning the shoots, returning them three years later to their original growing area.
• Yoshta and black currants are planted at intervals of at least one and a half meters, and red currants at meter intervals. Large bush vegetation will shade each other; the thorns of some varietal gooseberry species will completely block access to the fruits.

In the case of using honeysuckle and serviceberry as a green fence, the bushes are planted at intervals of a meter and a half, sometimes even denser, and in a berry garden at intervals of up to 2 meters.

The number of particular berry vegetation is especially important. It is good to think ahead and schematically plan the number of each species and varietal type so that it is possible to delight the family with fresh harvests of berries in summer period and to close the jars of aromatic jam for winter storage.

A properly planned berry plot grows normally and bears fruit for about 11 years, and in the future it should be gradually rejuvenated or the plants should be transferred to another area. Pruning fruit trees and forming the crown is also important event. To do this, you need to know the characteristics of varietal species of fruit trees.

Setting up an orchard

On the next page of the diary we draw a diagram with the placement of fruit crop vegetation, allocating approximately 4 square meters for each specimen. from the common area. There is no need to thicken the plantings. The plants will grow and become a nuisance to each other.

Let the planting holes be located in a row at intervals of four meters. We pay attention to the types of cultivated vegetation. Currently, a large number of farms are switching to the formats of apple and pear trees in the form of columns - the fundamental garden cultural vegetation in the homestead.

These species are smaller in size, and produce yields equal to tall cultivated vegetation. These types are easier to care for, they are resistant to illnesses, and are most resistant to frost. Early, middle and late varietal species must grow in order to be able to enjoy fresh delicacies throughout the season and so that the grown fruits can be processed and stored for the winter.

Of garden cultivated vegetation, two cherries (early and late) are sufficient. Instead of its average varietal type, it is better to plant two cherries.

They produce harvests following early cherries. Let there be one quince (later it will be possible to graft another species or other varietal types on it), two or three plums, including marabelle. A couple of apricots, which are frost-resistant varietal species, are enough. Three apple trees; in the future, through grafting, they can be turned into 6 or 8 varietal species different periods ripening. It is necessary to preserve space for new representatives of vegetation.

In order for the garden to delight with an abundance of harvests for a long period and not get sick, it is necessary to use zoned varietal species. They are more resistant to illnesses harmful insects, changes in weather conditions, the fruiting period is longer.

You can get acquainted with the varietal species and subspecies for the region and their characters in specialized literature. When purchasing seedlings, you should contact specialists. A garden that is filled with low-quality vegetation will add more work and hassle, and will not please you with the quality and quantity of fruits.

How to build beautiful beds and place them correctly in your garden

Formats

They can be of all kinds; their size can only be limited by the dimensions of the site. The ridges can be built straight or of various geometries, or figured. You can provide a fence, or you can do without it; they can be low or high in height.

High ridges are now more in demand. Of these, the most successful are those that reach a height of 40 cm. Bases:

• Such ridges are warm. A layer of materials that compost more slowly (leaves, weeds, paper waste) is placed on the bottom layer of materials that compost quickly (branches, rags, paper, cardboard). Then you should spill it with water and cover it with soil. During the process of decay, the ridge will begin to release heat, and the crops will ripen more actively.
• The sun's rays will warm the soil more actively. But irrigation also needs to be done more often.
• If you want to protect your future harvest from moles and mice, you should place a plaster mesh under the bottom layer.
• Such ridges do not require digging. After all, they are not dug, but made.
• It is possible to harvest crops twice per season. You can also have time to grow, for example, lettuce before planting the main crop.

Dimension

As usual, the ridges are from half a meter to a meter wide. These dimensions are suitable for processing, as they make maintenance easier. And the length can not be limited. According to Mitlider's method, it is proposed to construct completely narrow ridges of 45 cm, and, on the contrary, wider passages of 90 cm, while the length of the ridges should not exceed 9 meters. Gardeners who use this technique speak positively about it.

The vegetation is well ventilated. As it grows, accessibility to it remains particularly comfortable, and most importantly, it receives the energy of the sun in more, and even on cloudy days summer season The fruits ripen perfectly. Yields in this variation increase.

A variety of crops can be planted in the beds built by this species: tomato, cucumber, pepper, etc.

Location

As usual, the ridges are arranged from the south side in a northerly direction. This allows all vegetation to warm up evenly. And in the morning and evening time, when the sun's rays illuminate the ridges from the sides, they do not particularly shade each other. It happens that the site is endowed with a slope. How to correctly place the ridges in this option?

It is better to place them across the slope, then the moisture will be evenly distributed. It happens that the site is completely uneven, in which case it is recommended to place the ridges on the slope on the south side, and garden vegetation on the north.

Layout

For its literacy you need to consider:

• The yield of one or another varietal type of vegetable per square meter. After all, then it will be possible to calculate the required landing site for each species.
• Vegetation compatibility. Without it, it will not be possible to carry out the plan efficiently.
• If the site is too sloping, it is necessary to build terraces and place ridge boxes on them.
• Plan planting of crops so that taller vegetation is on the northern side of the site. So more low species will not grow in shade.

Common mistakes made by a novice gardener:

• Through too thick plantings: it is necessary to ensure the seedlings by thinning in due time, because if the vegetation is crowded, this will not have a beneficial effect on its growth, yields and resistance to harmful insects and diseases. The spaces between the rows and the vegetation in the row (planting patterns) are provided separately for each crop.
• Failure to eliminate weeds in a timely manner will lead to a decline in the yield and its quality. Because the weed, which is already persistent and actively growing, deprives a significant portion of the nutritional components of the crop.
• Vegetable beds in shade: negatively affects the quality of vegetation; some crops accumulate nitrate-containing components when growing in shade. Let the light on the beds in the garden be present for at least 6 hours every day. Vegetation in particular uses afternoon light. This means it’s good if they don’t find themselves in the shade at this time.
• Overdose of fertilizing: overfed vegetable plants are much more susceptible to illness. Excessive feeding with nitrogenous additives leads to fattening of the crop, as a result, fruiting suffers and nitrates accumulate in vegetables. Strict adherence to the timing and norms for adding fertilizers, taking into account the preferences of the crop, is imperative.
• Sowing seeds in excessive early dates: sowing seeds in unheated soil destroys germination. Each vegetation has its own periods, this also applies to planting. If the spring period turns out to be cool and humid, it is better to postpone sowing for a week and expect friendly shoots a little later.
• Illiterate selection of vegetable representatives: heat-loving, capricious vegetables (

Possession own plot gives a lot of privileges to modern man, especially if the bulk of his life takes place in the city. A small plot or a full-fledged orchard can add variety to life, become a recreation area or a treasure trove of natural fruits. To make the most of natural resources, the layout of a garden or plot must be carefully thought out and implemented taking into account the smallest aspects of future operation.

Grid layout

Any planning begins with the formation of a diagram. To do this, you can use a regular sheet of paper and a pencil with a ruler. The essence of the method is to visualize and visualize the location of economic objects on the site: paths, places with green spaces, decorative elements and other garden attributes. By applying a grid, not only the layout of the garden and vegetable garden is formed, but also the lines of symmetry in the arrangement of objects are worked out. This is important if the greatest emphasis is placed on the aesthetic function of the territory.

The grid spacing should be determined by the size of the house and the site itself. For vegetable gardens with an area of ​​no more than 6 acres, the step can correspond to two real meters, and if it exceeds 20 acres, then you can make indents equivalent to three meters. In the designated cells you can mark the location of green plantings, gazebos, buildings, beds, engineering communications, swimming pool, etc. The main task at this stage is to roughly sketch out a plan in which the user’s requests will be taken into account and compared with the capabilities of a particular garden or plot.

What factors are taken into account during planning?

The inclusion of certain functional zones in the project will depend on the conditions in which the site will be operated. In this regard, the layout of the garden and vegetable garden should take into account the following factors:

• Possibilities for allocating space for fruit trees with lush crowns. Having one such copy will require up to 4 square meters free space.
• Soil characteristics. They are distinguished by a powerful root structure, which can only be provided on rocky, clay or sandy soil, it is difficult to get a good harvest. In addition, the groundwater level must be taken into account.
• Relief. On uneven ground it is advisable to break decorative garden. Planning a plot for a vegetable garden requires an equal area, since cold air will be retained in the basins and depressions and moisture will accumulate - such places are not suitable for fruit vegetation.
• Openness to the sun. Green spaces must have protection from the wind and at the same time access to light and heat. Therefore, it is necessary to foresee in advance the possibility of creating favorable conditions on the existing site. If this is not possible, you will have to abandon some tree varieties.

Preparatory work

If there is a need to create a flat area, then you should start by adjusting the landscape. When the site is leveled, you should proceed to the formation of holes and pits for the septic tank and reservoir (if any in the project). The soil itself can be kept in its current state if it is planned to develop personal plot-garden. A vegetable garden, the layout of which has not previously affected the soil layer, must be dug up, and the weeds on its territory must be destroyed.

If the area is large, then manual weeding can be very labor-intensive, so it would be a good idea to use special preparations for spraying unwanted vegetation. It is not recommended to get rid of old fruit trees, even if they do not bear fruit. Firstly, they can provide shade, which is important for garden beds, and secondly, it can take years for new trees to form.

Communication support

A modern site cannot be imagined without an established engineering infrastructure. Such systems will facilitate the operation and maintenance of the site, increase its functionality and create additional recreational conditions. In particular, the garden layout may include drainage systems, sewerage, organization of passage gas pipeline and water supply. It is also necessary to provide for the presence of a well, septic tank or borehole. These engineering facilities should be located at a sufficient distance from each other. It is impossible not to provide for a system street lighting in the garden. It is advisable to conduct electrical wiring at a depth of about 70 cm. Installation must be carried out before plants are planted and garden paths are arranged.

Regular or landscape planning?

There are two approaches to organizing green spaces in the garden: landscape and regular. There is no strict boundary between these concepts, but there is certain rules, which adherents of these ideas are guided by. So, if fulfilled landscape planning home garden, then a free arrangement of trees, plants and plants is permissible. In this case, it is possible to mix fruit trees with vegetation that performs an aesthetic function. In practice, close combination is rare, but there is also no clear order in creating such schemes.

The regular concept involves planting shrubs, trees and vegetables in the garden bed in strictly formed rows at a certain distance from each other. That is, the layout of the garden can reflect the location of beds, flower beds and lines with tree plantings in the form of squares or rectangles.

Where and what plants to plant?

Initially, you should choose those varieties that can develop and bear fruit in those conditions. climatic conditions where the site is located. For example, middle lane gives good conditions for the growth of apple, pear, cherry, cherry plum and plum trees. IN warm regions Apricots and cherries take root well. Among those that also grow in these latitudes are currants, blackberries, gooseberries and raspberries. By the way, on small area It is advisable to plant bushes along the perimeter of the site.

The listed varieties will allow you to form a harmonious personal plot-garden. A vegetable garden, the layout of which also includes space for vegetable beds, can contain cucumbers, cabbage, peas, celery, potatoes and other crops that can grow in close proximity. The layout of the beds can be different and not necessarily strictly symmetrical. For example, there is an option in which a decorative slab is used to mark the center of the area from which the garden paths go. The beds are located between them, with crops of a certain type growing on each strip.

Household block

Functionally, this is the most important part site, since she will be responsible for all technical support for the area. According to zoning rules, no more than 30% of the entire territory is allocated for this part. This block may include a utility room, poultry house, hay barn, storage room, workshop, toilet with shower and other structures. When determining the location of buildings, it is important not to forget about maintaining the boundaries of the sanitary zone, taking into account which the garden is planned. A photo illustrating an example of organizing a utility block on a site is presented below.

Recreation area

Whether it’s a small plot or a spacious garden, it must have a corner where you can rest after working day in the garden beds or have a real feast with entertainment on clean air. Even compact layout a garden on 6 acres may include a modest but harmoniously integrated gazebo. What can we say about large areas where you can organize a summer kitchen, equip a swimming pool, build an observation deck and much more. The list of ideas for implementation is limited only by the capabilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the recreation area should have a thoughtful location relative to other functional areas. It is advisable to remove it as far as possible from utility blocks and communication structures.

Conclusion

There are no clear rules for drawing up planning schemes for plots and gardens in our time, since owners are increasingly seeking to individualize their own property. The self-created garden layout embodies the owner’s aesthetic view of the organization of a “piece of nature” and his requests for the functional provision of the site. Of course, it is one thing to plan the future organization of the garden, and another to implement it. Moreover, green spaces sometimes require several seasons to demonstrate their decorative qualities and bear the first fruits. And yet, when this happens, every novice gardener realizes that everything was not in vain.

Vegetable garden planning- great art. With a sensible approach, you can count on a good harvest. I suggest you step by step instructions garden planning. Following simple tips, even a beginner can cope with a rather difficult task - to competently plan a vegetable garden.

Step one. Decide on the crops you plan to grow this year.

Once you start deciding what vegetables to plant in your garden, you will notice that the possibilities are endless. There are thousands of varieties of tomatoes alone! When choosing varieties, pay attention special attention to the descriptions in the catalogue. Each variety will be slightly different: one will give a larger harvest, the other will be suitable for small gardens, as it requires less space, the third offers greater resistance to disease, the fourth has greater tolerance to cold, and so on ad infinitum.

Give up the habit of constantly using your seeds. Any variety gradually degenerates. Buy new varieties of vegetables every year and experiment.

Step two. Conduct a site inspection.

In order for garden planning to be successful, you should draw a diagram of the garden and mark on it:

• shaded places,
• the sunniest places
• low places,
• sandy places,
• areas with heavy clay soil.

Based on this information, you need to select optimal place for each plant.

Let's decide on the crops you will grow in the shade. The darkest places are best reserved for planting fragrant herbs: cardamom, mint, parsley. Sorrel and spinach also do not need large quantities sun. Leeks and garlic feel good in the shade. Penumbra Suitable for growing beets, broccoli and cauliflower. But for tomatoes, peppers, melons and pumpkins, it is best to reserve the most sunny places.

The most low places the plot is suitable for growing cucumbers, cabbage, onions and garlic, radishes, sorrel, spinach and lettuce.

Sandy places allocate for growing early-ripening vegetables, since sandy soil warms up faster and will provide the necessary warmth to vegetables at the time of their abundant growth. Clay soil, on the contrary, warms up more slowly and is suitable for late crops.

You have already made the first sketches of the garden plan, you can move on to the third planning step.

Step three. We decide on the final arrangement of vegetables.

You have already staked out some places for certain vegetables. Let's bring the plan to fruition. Read the article about. Now you can wisely choose neighbors for your vegetables.

Step four. We are planning watering.

Think about how you will water the garden. You may need a place to run a hose or spray tape or a wider path for water supply. If you collect rainwater for irrigation, select a place for this in the center of the garden and install containers there to collect rainwater.

Step five. We outline the beds.

Now that we have decided on a place to grow vegetables and a method of watering, we need to think about the size and placement of the beds. The approximate desired yield will help determine the size of the beds.

Culture	Yield in kilograms per square meter. meter
white cabbage	About 3 kg
cauliflower	1.5 kg
red cabbage	2 kg
Brussels sprouts	2 kg
parsley	2-3 kg
parsnip	3 kg
celery	2-3 kg
carrot	up to 5 kg
beet	up to 5 kg
radish	2 kg
turnip	2 kg
radish	2 kg
garlic	2 kg
onion	2 kg
cucumbers	3 kg
pepper	3 kg
tomatoes	3 kg
eggplant	3 kg
pumpkin	5 kg
zucchini	4 kg
beans	1.5 kg
peas	1 kg
dill	2 kg
spinach	2 kg
lettuce	2 kg
early potatoes	2 kg
late potatoes	3.5 kg

These are very approximate figures. Your harvest may be larger or smaller. These numbers are given to give you an idea of ​​the size of the beds.

Competent beds must meet several requirements.

1. You should be comfortable caring for your garden beds.

To do this, provide paths between the beds. They should be no narrower than 30 cm. The width of the bed should not exceed a meter. It is better to make narrow and long beds - they are more convenient to weed. If you can approach the bed only from one side, and on the other it is adjacent to a building or reservoir, then let the width of such a bed be no more than half a meter. Long and narrow beds are very convenient both for sowing and harvesting.

1. The direction of planting should be from south to north.

This way the plants will receive more light. This will have a good effect on productivity. If you live in a cold climate, make the beds slightly sloping. Let them be a little higher on the north side, and a little lower on the south side. This will help the soil absorb a little more heat.

The beds can be fenced - this will save you time next year, because the beds will already be ready.

If you have a small garden, consider growing two or more crops in the same bed at the same time. Take advantage. Some crops can be grown one after the other within one season - consider this possibility.

Well, that's the stage garden planning has come to an end, the time has come real work. Don't throw away your plan. Next year you can check it and choose new places for vegetables, because it is not recommended to grow the same crop in one place for several years in a row. Moreover, there are rules for crop rotation, following which you will increase the productivity of your garden.

It often happens that the garden space is organized: on the first impulse, under the influence of emotions or under the influence of advertising, seedlings, flowers, accessories are bought, and then all this is placed randomly on the site or according to the “like everyone else” principle. How will this all end? One and the same: it will soon turn out that almost everything is out of place and, as a result, the site is ugly and inconvenient.

To get what you want, you need to act like professionals from the very beginning - plan your garden correctly. There is no other way, only preliminary planning allows you to get the garden you dream of.

Groenbedrijflimburg.be

Dining area

What kind of garden do you dream of? This is where we need to stop. This is the first professional step. You need to determine what kind of garden you need, and in a very specific and “material” way. To do this, start with yourself.

Take blank slate paper and in a calm atmosphere, think and write down: what you like and what you don’t, what your needs, hobbies, family traditions how you spend your leisure time, what inspires you, what you want to achieve. This is important. Let each member of your family make such a record; such “research” will then help you when choosing specific options.

flowerpower.com.au

Rest place

Now it's time to assemble a "family council." Get everyone together and let everyone make a list of their wishes regarding what they would like to have on the site. First, abstract from the size of the site, as well as whether it is new or already has plantings and buildings on it. Don’t limit your imagination, write down everything you want: a bathhouse, a gazebo, orchard, vegetable garden, patio, rock garden, alpine slide, a pond, a workshop... Children will probably need a playground, and older family members will need a cozy bench. And where there is a vegetable garden, there is a shed and a compost heap. Discuss your lists together and roughly estimate the area for everything planned. It is quite natural that everything will not fit on the site. Therefore, you need to go through the lists a few more times and cross out everything that you can do without, and it is at this stage that your first list will help you - the list of your personal priorities.

sustainablenovato.org

Location of beds

You have identified your “objects of desire.” The next step is to create an “idea collection.” To do this, you will need a bright folder with pocket files. Gradually add into it all the “images” that are related to your future “design project”: magazine clippings, photographs, drawings, samples of flower beds, gazebos, original ideas, color solutions, materials from exhibitions. At first, don’t analyze feasibility or complexity - just collect everything you like. The most unexpected solutions will come, not necessarily in the same versions as in your “collection”, and from this “kaleidoscope” your unique version will emerge.

Well, now you are ready to start planning. After all, now you know your dream in person. When planning, you need to consider whether you have a completely new plot, or an already established garden. The garden of your dreams is real for you in any case. A fully inhabited garden can also be redesigned one hundred percent, it’s all about the technique used

mjakmrowka.pl

Shrubs

Use very effective method, which does not require special skills and abilities. It is called the “cripple method”.

1. Garden boundaries. Take a blank sheet of paper and draw the boundaries of your property. To do this, you will need graph paper (scale 1:100, this means that a meter on the site corresponds to a centimeter on paper. This will be the most convenient scale for you). You can take plain white paper and still use a scale ruler (such rulers are sold with different scales, select the one with 1:100). You will also need pencils (simple and colored), a compass, a square, a ruler, tracing paper, a tape measure and a compass. Before drawing, measure the sides of the area with a tape measure. By the way, if you don’t know how to draw at all, documents for your site will help you - there should be a scale plan and its configuration. You just have to scale them up to the larger scale you need.

foudejardins.com

Stone as a material for improvised buildings

2. Garden zoning. Here you need to determine which zones (parts of the garden) will be located where and what size they will be. Zones always have some function and are usually distinguished: living area (house, summer house, summer kitchen, patio etc.), recreation areas (gazebo, barbecue area, pond, swimming pool), utility areas (garden, vegetable garden, barn, garage, workshop, etc.). But this is only approximate, and you yourself can “establish” any zones, since you already have your own wishes.

The zones should be marked on your “design project”. But not on the sheet of paper where you drew the boundaries of the site! Take several sheets of tracing paper for this. Translate your original plan onto tracing paper in several copies and mark the zones on one of them. They are drawn in the form of abstract spots of arbitrary shape. Sign them. Consider the resulting option. It is quite possible that questions will arise about where it is better to locate a certain area, for example, a gazebo. And you just have several cripples. Think about it this way and that, compare the options, move the tracing paper along the main plan and immediately see the best one. So, gradually, you will receive a complete plan of zones (and determine their size according to your needs). At this stage, priority is given to practicality and rationality, because even the most spectacular design is unlikely to please you if the site is uncomfortable.

maleeqdecor.com

3. Paths. Draw them on tracing paper. First, use arrows to mark the proposed routes of your movement, and then draw the outlines of the paths along them. Their exact width and shape can be completed later. Main criterion– should be comfortable. For decorative reasons, do not make all the paths absolutely smooth, let there be a slight bend. Loop them around the garden - connect them into a single route. This is both convenient and practical, this is one of the techniques of landscape architecture.

4. Trees and shrubs. Draw them on tracing paper with circles of the appropriate size; to do this, ask in reference books what the size of the crown of the trees you have chosen is in adulthood and what distance they need when planting. The general recommendation for placement is: more tall plants- in the lower part of the site, beautifully flowering ones - closer to the recreation areas. Shrubs, including berries, can be used to frame the path, while conifers can be used as a barrier from the prevailing winds.

5. Flower beds. Draw everything on another tracing paper, as there will be many options! Arrange them as you like, but do not forget about the lighting requirements. Place for roses - in front of the house and on south side, conifers and heathers are good in rock gardens; give the entrance to the site to plants that bloom longer than others.

my-hammer.de

Garden furniture

6. Vertical gardening. We also draw it with conventional icons on tracing paper. Choose “your” types of vertical gardening that you like: screens, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc.

7. Garden accents. Place accents on the schematic plan: garden accessories, containers with plants, think about lighting, spectacular details. In a word, give the site a “zest”.

Well, now - the most exciting moment! By combining all your tracing papers, you will get a plan for your dream garden.

www.meaningfullife.com

The same method is used here, but with some differences.

1. Analysis of existing conditions. At the very beginning of planning, you should draw the boundaries of the garden. But what follows is an analysis of the existing conditions - what is “given” to you. You need to draw a plan of the site as it is now. So, you have drawn the boundaries of the site, and now put on this plan all the objects that are already on it (trees, buildings, etc.). The resulting plan of what is “given” now needs to be supplemented. This means to reveal individual characteristics your site. Mark the cardinal directions on the plan, determining them using a compass - this is very important for the correct orientation of future plantings and buildings, this is your light “climate”. Note all the features of the microrelief - depressions, elevations, irregularities and label them. Draw an arrow in the direction of the slope, if there is one. Evaluate its angle by eye. Pay attention to the landscape around you, the proximity of a forest, a pond, a road, how beautiful the views from the site are, and the buildings of your neighbors. Write down right on the plan what you would like to hide and what, on the contrary, you would like to reveal. Depict objects on the plan as simple geometric shapes– circles, rectangles of the appropriate size, preferably colored ones.

If your garden is lived-in, you know a lot about it. Therefore, be sure to mark on the plan the direction of the prevailing winds, the “movement schedule” of shadows during the day, the location of the warmest and coldest places (those where frost is guaranteed and snow lasts longer). It would be very good, of course, to know the groundwater level and soil composition (approximately, an exact analysis is not needed).

It is very good to use a camera when analyzing existing conditions. It will be very convenient to photograph some corners of your estate so that you always have material for thought before your eyes and not miss a single detail.

mimimiamiliving.com

Decorative lantern

2. Zoning of a habitable garden. The main thing when zoning is to take into account those individual features that you identified in the first step: relief, surrounding landscape, existing buildings, climatic features. If there is a particularly beautiful view from somewhere, it is logical to make a recreation area there; if there is a lowland or depression, there is no better place for a pond. The most important design secret: most of the disadvantages of your site are actually advantages, this is luck, it is your individual style, it is thanks to them that your site will become unique!

www.homesandland.com

Flower border

If the site has already been developed, there are buildings and plantings, then you need to consider each “object”, how it suits you and fits into the new zoning. There is no need to be afraid of drastic changes, since everything can always be adapted to new conditions; there are special decorative techniques for this.

All next five steps– plan paths, plants, flower beds, vertical gardening and garden accents on separate tracing papers, similar to how it is done when planning a new garden. But before that, after completing the zoning, mark on tracing paper only those objects that you would like to leave in the garden, and abstract from the rest - do not transfer them to your project.