Dracaena – translated from Latin means “female dragon”. Belongs to the Asparagus family. It is a shrub or tree: straight stems, similar to a tree trunk, ending in a rosette of leaves.
The leaves are oblong, the color is plain or with stripes various colors. Due to its appearance, dracaena is also called an indoor palm. It is capable of reaching a height of about 2-3 m. It is a relative long-liver: with proper care conditions it lives from 5 to 15 years.
How dracaena blooms
Occurs extremely rarely at home. The flowers are small, white-green in color, rather pleasant aroma. Only Dracaena fragrant is an exception in terms of aroma. The inflorescences are collected in loose panicles. After flowering, each ovary produces only one drupe fruit, similar to a cherry. You can't eat it.
Homeland of the dracaena houseplant
It is native to Africa, but is found in South Asia and the tropics of Central America. There is a legend according to which a young man fell in love with the daughter of a leader. The strict father allowed them to be together if the young man stuck a stick into the ground and after 5 days leaves appeared on it. This is exactly how the first dracaena grew.
Due to its beautiful appearance, reminiscent of a tropical palm tree, and easy care, dracaena is popular for growing at home, offices and other premises.
Caring for dracaena at home
Lighting
The plant loves bright, but diffused sunlight. Can also grow in partial shade. The intensity of lighting depends on the color of the leaves: variegated forms require more light.
Air temperature
Keep the air temperature moderate. In spring and summer at 25° C, with the onset of cold weather lower it to 14° C, some species will feel great at 10° C. It absolutely cannot tolerate drafts.
How to water dracaena
It is also necessary according to the season:
- In summer it is enough to water moderately a couple of times a week, in winter – once every 10 days.
- No overflows, stagnation of water: earthen lump should dry out by 5 cm, drain the water from the pan immediately!
Humidity
Dracaena is not recommended to be placed near heating systems. Spray the plant, bathe it warm shower at any time of the year, but avoid stagnant water on the leaves. If it is not possible to “bathe” the plant, wipe the dracaena leaves with a damp sponge.
Transfer
The first transplant of dracaena must be done a couple of weeks after purchase. Young plants (up to 3 years old) require replanting every year. Then replant as the root system grows - approximately every 4-5 years. Use the earthen clod transfer method. For adult plants, it is enough to update the top layer of soil annually. Replant and update the soil in the spring.
Priming
Dracaena requires light, breathable soil. Suitable substrate for palm trees. You can mix sand, humus, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions yourself. In spring and summer, periodically loosen the top layer of soil. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom.
The container for the plant should have a diameter of approximately 15 cm, followed by an increase of 3 cm with each transplant.
How to make a multi-stemmed dracaena
So that new ones appear side shoots, must be carried out. Using a blade or sharp knife, cut off the top of the plant and cover the dracaena in a plastic bag, place in a sunny place, bottom water through a tray. Remove cover when new shoots appear.
Feeding
During active growth(spring-autumn) it is necessary to apply complex mineral fertilizers. In winter, feeding is stopped.
Growing dracaena from seeds
Reproduction of dracaena is carried out and vegetative way(apical and stem cuttings). Seed propagation Suitable only for species with green leaves.
- Sow only fresh seeds.
- Before planting, they must be soaked in a growth accelerator for a day while maintaining the air temperature at least 30° C.
- It is better to sow one seed at a time in separate plastic cups with moist sandy-peaty soil.
- The seeding depth is 0.5-1 cm.
- Cover the crops cling film and place it in warm place out of direct sunlight.
- Expect germination in 1-2 months.
- When the plants planted in a common container reach a length of 5 cm, transplant each into a separate permanent pot. Seedlings grown in separate cups are transplanted using the transfer method when the roots fill the cup.
Propagation of dracaena by cuttings
Dracaena cuttings are a simple and affordable way to propagate a flower.
- To obtain stem cuttings, select a young strong stem and cut it into pieces 3-5 cm long.
- Remove the bark from the bottom of each section and stick it into the ground.
- Cover glass jar or a cap from a cut plastic bottle.
- Ventilate periodically and check if the cuttings have rotted.
- After 1-1.5 months, young shoots will appear.
The apical cutting can be rooted in water or soil. Dissolve in a glass with warm water tablet of activated carbon and place the cutting there. It will take about 3 months for roots to appear. Rooting in the ground is carried out as follows: make a hole in the ground, place the cutting there and press the soil around the stem. You don't even have to cover it with a jar. The most important thing is to maintain the air temperature at 24-26° C, water and spray regularly. Choose a place with diffused lighting, without drafts. Don't panic if a few of the lower leaves fall off the cutting - this is completely normal.
Rooting soil is required with a high peat content. Plant rooted plants in soil intended for adult dracaenas. Choose a pot with a depth of about 9 cm and a diameter of 10 cm.
Diseases and pests
Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow and what to do?
In most cases, dracaenas die in winter from hypothermia and drafts. In winter, it should not be left on a cold windowsill, watered or fertilized frequently - the plant should be in a state of relative dormancy. From hypothermia, the leaves turn yellow with a brown edge and then fall off. Most likely, the roots of the plant have already begun to rot.
Features of plant recovery depend on the degree of damage. When only the leaves are affected, simply move the plant to a place free from drafts and cold. Watering should be minimal. Trim damaged leaves when they are completely dry. In the spring, replant such a plant.
If the leaves continue to turn yellow, then the roots are affected by rot. Remove the plant from the pot, cut off the affected roots with a disinfected knife and replant it in new soil.
If the trunk has become soft, cut it all off soft spots. Even if only the “stump” remains, by spring it will produce new shoots.
Why do dracaena leaves dry out and what to do?
- The tips of the leaves may turn yellow due to dry air - spray the plant more often.
- Appearance yellow spots indicates sunburn - protect the dracaena from direct sunlight.
- If you properly care for the plant, but various spots (yellow, brown, irregular shapes) and other types of lesions appear on the leaves, this could be fungal diseases. It is necessary to remove all damaged areas and treat the plant and soil with a fungicide (phytosporin).
Brown spots on dracaena
The appearance of brown spots that quickly increase is an alarm bell: these are signs fungal infection called fusarium. Without urgent resuscitation and fungicide treatment, the plant will quickly die.
A diseased dracaena should never be sprayed with water to prevent the disease from spreading. Treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture and remove all affected areas without regret, even if you have to part with most of the leaves. The main thing is to remove the sources of infection; later the dracaena will recover. You can use phytosporin, bactofit or trichodermin to treat the plant itself and the soil according to the instructions. After 10 days, repeat the treatment, don’t be lazy. To be completely sure that the disease is defeated, the treatments are repeated 3-4 times.
In the fight against fusarium, it is important to remember: do not overdry or waterlog the roots, allow the air temperature to rise above 24°C and high humidity air. Feeding with humic preparations, for example, potassium humate, will help increase immunity and resistance to disease.
Pests
Dracaena is attacked by pests such as spider mites and scale insects. Wet the sponge soap solution and remove pests mechanically. Then treat with insecticides.
Types of dracaena with photos and names
Dracaena marginata
A plant with narrow long leaves collected at the top of the trunk - very similar to a palm tree. Scars remain on the stem from fallen leaves. The tree can reach a height of about 3 meters.
Dracaena deremensis Dracaena deremensis
The plant has wider leaves and is green with white stripes.
Dracaena sanderiana or bamboo of happiness Dracaena sanderiana
The stems are similar to bamboo. In its normal state, the trunk is erect, but it is twisted in a spiral artificially to increase its decorative effect. The leaves have yellow-green stripes.
You can create amazing weaving: from flat patterns to volumetric ones, in the form of a vase or a wicker column.
Dracaena Fragrant Dracaena fagrans
It has long narrow leaves with silver-gray stripes down the center. The inflorescence is represented by white fragrant flowers.
Dracaena reflexa
The green leaves with a golden edge are indeed slightly bent. The stem begins to branch at the root.
Dracaena Godseffiana
The species is completely different from its relatives. Has the shape of a bush. The leaves are covered with small spots of cream and golden hue.
Dracaena Dragon or Dragon tree Dracaena Draco
In the natural environment it reaches a height of 20 m, with indoor growing– 1.5 m. This species is also called “false palm”. The stem-trunk is straight, woody, with sword-shaped leaves that have a reddish edging.
Many gardeners love dracaena for its attractiveness and unpretentiousness, for its elongated leaves collected in rosettes; it looks like a palm tree and reminds of the hot south.
The “indoor palm tree” decorates many houses and apartments, and is also popular in offices. It is important to know how to care for dracaena at home.
Description of the plant
Dracaena flower is evergreen, belongs to the Asparagus family. Africa is considered its homeland, but you can also find it in Canary Islands. Translated from Latin name means "female dragon". In appearance it looks like a bush or tree. The stems are straight and dense, similar to a tree trunk, and the oblong leaves are collected at the top of the trunk into a rosette.
The oblong leaves are rich green in color, plain or with stripes of different colors. In appearance it is similar to a palm tree and can reach a height of 2-3 m when indoors.
Life expectancy at good care can reach 5-15 years. There are more than 150 species and varieties of dracaena.
Types of dracaena with photo and name
IN room conditions Up to 40 plant varieties are grown. They differ in the type of bush, the color and shape of the leaves, and the size of the plant. The most popular types of dracaena among gardeners are:
- Dracaena fringed. A tree-like plant with narrow, long leaves arranged in such a way that it looks like a disheveled hairstyle. The leaves are concentrated at the top; when they fall, an unusual pattern is formed on the central trunk. This type plants stretch up to 3 m.
- Dracaena Derema. It differs from other species in the color and shape of the leaves: they are wider and have white stripes. This makes the plant more attractive and unusual.
- Dracaena Sandera. This type of dracaena resembles bamboo in appearance. Its leaves are long, green with yellow stripes. For greater decorativeness, the stems of the plant are artificially twisted into a spiral. The stems are woven into baskets, trellises and other elements. IN in the usual form- These are simple, erect stems.
- Dracaena Fragrant. This type of plant has a thick but unstable trunk, sometimes requiring support. The leaves are green and large, attached directly to the trunk. The plant strongly emits a wonderful aroma without even releasing the peduncle. The flower itself appears rarely and reaches one meter. When grown indoors, it practically does not bloom.
- Dragon tree. In nature it grows up to 20 m, but indoors it reaches 1.5 m. It has a hard stem-trunk, like a tree. Its leaves are sword-shaped, green with a red edge.
- Dracaena marginata. The most common type in our homes. It has a tree-like smooth trunk and a rosette of green leaves with a red edge at the top. Grows up to two meters.
Each species has its own characteristics of care, so you should study the nuances before planting them.
Dracaena. Pruning and propagation. Video:
Caring for indoor dracaena
Although dracaena is an unpretentious plant and does not require much time for itself, every gardener should still know how to care for dracaena at home. The main advantage of the plant is the unusually colored leaves collected at the top of the trunk. In order for them to be juicy, bright, without dried out or yellowed areas, you need to properly care for the plant.
Flower pot
To plant a plant 50-80 cm high, you need a pot of size: diameter - 20 cm, height - 25 cm. It must be stable; a tall plant can easily be knocked over, but the pot must prevent this. Be sure to add a layer of expanded clay or other drainage material to the bottom of the pot. Dracaena roots need air supply.
Soil for dracaena
For good growth and the development of dracaena requires a neutral substrate with a pH of about 6. Ready soil Usually they sell it with the pH indicated, but if you prepare it yourself, you must then check it using indicator strips. The substrate can be prepared in two ways.
- 3 parts earth, 2 parts peat and one sand.
- 2 parts peat, one part humus and one part sand.
Room temperature
Since the plant’s homeland is a warm continent, it means it loves warmth. During the warm season, it is necessary to maintain the room temperature at least 19-25 °C. At lower temperatures, the plant grows poorly and may even die. She also does not like too dry air; it should be at least 50% humidity.
Illumination
Dracaena loves light, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Especially on a hot afternoon, if the pot is in the sun, it will be better to shade it at this time.
For plants with variegated leaves The western or eastern side of the room is best suited, they need more light. If it is located far from the window and artificial lighting, the top may become crooked.
How to water dracaena?
In summer, during the hot season, it needs to be watered once every two days. Do not let the soil in the pot dry out completely. The soil should be constantly moist, but not wet. It is necessary to frequently spray the leaves of the plant with soft water. When watering dracaena, you should ensure that the water in the tray does not stagnate. If you spray plants every day, then it appears on the leaves. limescale. Therefore, you need to frequently wipe the leaves from dust and plaque with a damp cloth.
Plant nutrition
Fertilizers need to be applied 2 times a month, this is in the summer months. It is better to alternate mineral and organic feeding. Add them along with water during watering. The plant does not like fluorine and chlorine, so you should pay attention to this when choosing a fertilizer.
How to care in winter?
If the plant is in warm room and in winter, you need to care for it almost like in summer. But better in winter place it in a room with a temperature no higher than 15 °C.
Then watering and spraying should be reduced and done once a week. In a warm room, water twice a week. In winter and autumn, dracaena does not need to be fed.
How to replant dracaena at home?
Replanting a plant is important for the decorative appearance of an adult dracaena. Transplantation is usually carried out into a more voluminous and tall pot. At the bottom of the new home you need to put drainage material, these can be ceramic fragments, expanded clay, pieces of polystyrene foam, pebbles. It is necessary to carefully remove the plant from the old pot so as not to damage the root system.
Transplanting dracaena at home occurs as follows:
- Place a layer of sand and a little soil on the drainage material in a new pot.
- Place the plant in a pot, placing a ball of earth in the middle, and cover the sides with soil.
- Water the soil in the pot.
- Add the substrate, leaving 1.5 cm to the edge of the pot.
- Compact the soil with your hands and sprinkle peat on top.
Up to three years, the plant must be replanted annually. In subsequent years, do this as it grows. But every year it is necessary to change the top layer of soil in the pot with fresh one. Care and replanting give the plant the strength to grow and develop further.
How to prune dracaena for branching?
To get an attractive crown of a houseplant, it needs to be trimmed on time and correctly. The procedure is also required for sanitary purposes to remove old shoots. To indoor palm tree did not reach the ceiling and did not break the stem, initial pruning of the plant is required. It is produced when the dracaena trunk reaches 30-40 cm. Here you need to trim the stem part at a certain height in order to maintain the compactness and beautiful appearance of the palm tree.
If the plant is allowed to grow and form unsightly branches of side shoots, then it needs to be pruned to give decorative look. It is necessary to cut off all lateral deformed shoots that look ugly.
In order for dracaena to produce new shoots, scheduled pruning must be carried out during active growth. Then the movement of plant sap occurs most favorably for the plant, it will not hurt.
In order for an indoor palm tree to branch better, it is necessary to carry out a standard pruning technique. Primary pruning is done when the trunk height reaches 30-40 cm. The top of the trunk is cut off with a sharp knife, and this area is treated with paraffin. Place the cut dracaena in a shaded place at a temperature of 24-25 °C.
Side shoots will appear at the top of the trunk 3 months after the procedure. All deformed shoots should also be pruned. To obtain a special decorative effect, it is necessary to cut off all the shoots at different heights. Also treat them with paraffin and a special agent for improving branching “Zircon”.
Dracaena fragrant: propagation, care, watering. Video:
Reproduction of dracaena at home
After the dracaena reaches enormous size, you need to start propagating it, otherwise it will lose its attractiveness. The easiest types of dracaena to propagate at home are Derema, Bordered and Sandera. This must be done in March-April, when plant growth processes are activated. When it comes to the question of how to propagate dracaena at home, there are two main methods: cuttings from the top of the plant and from stems.
Method of propagation by apical cuttings
Cut the apical stalk 10 cm long and place it in a bowl of water, placing pieces of charcoal on the bottom. Treat the cut on the plant with ash or the same coal, new shoots will come from it. Cover the container with the cutting with film and place it in a place with a temperature not lower than 20-22 °C.
It is necessary to open the film daily to ventilate the cuttings. It is necessary to change the water frequently by adding charcoal or activated carbon to it. The cutting takes a long time to take root - 3-4 weeks, and after 2 months several shoots form; they need to be transplanted into different flowerpots.
Propagation by stem cuttings
If the top of the stem withers with age, then propagation is carried out by stem cuttings. A healthy stem of the plant is cut out; its diameter should be at least 2 cm. Cuttings are formed at least 20 cm long. Cuttings need to be cut with a sharp knife in the places where the leaves are attached to the stem. Then the cuttings can be rooted in two ways:
- Vertical. Bury the bottom of the cutting into suitable soil by 3 cm, and sprinkle on top with a layer of sand 6 cm thick. Water and fertilize the cutting; it does not need to be replanted into a new pot. First, the cuttings will take root in the sand, and then into the soil.
- Horizontal. Place the cutting in a prepared pot with a suitable substrate. Press it slightly into the soil and leave it to germinate at high humidity and a temperature of approximately 24 °C. At the stem, in contrast to the apical cutting, not only roots, but also shoots begin to form. As the shoots grow, the stem is destroyed as they feed on it nutrients. When the shoots begin to receive nutrition through the root system, they need to be transplanted into separate pots.
Propagation by seeds is done only by specialists. If you can find seeds, you must first soak them in warm water. After 5 days, sow them in a suitable container in moist soil. Grow seedlings in greenhouse conditions, that is, with a closed container. Care as for ordinary seedlings. The seeds of the plant take a very long time to germinate.
If a flower is kept at a temperature below 10 degrees for a long time, its leaves wither and fall off. At the same time, he rots and root system. This attitude towards the plant is unacceptable.
Infectious plant diseases include: Alternaria blight, heterosporiosis, phyllosticosis, bacteriosis. The first three fungal diseases are treated with fungicides. But bacteriosis of dracaena cannot be treated. The affected flower should be destroyed immediately.
You will be interested in this article - Dieffenbachia: care at home.
Among the huge variety of plants that are used for home, office, apartment, shopping center And landscape decor, dracaena is a species that you can find almost everywhere.
If you want to have this shrub, then follow our tips and learn more about caring for dracaena at home.
Dracaena: home care - reproduction
To begin with, let us note that this perennial, which grows quite slowly 10-15 cm per year.
Types " false palm»
Reproduction occurs by cuttings.
There are two ways.
1. Reproduction by crown.
The stages are as follows:
- prepare the cuttings. To do this, cut off the branched part of the root column of the plant or, if there is only one trunk, then cut it off top part at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the beginning. Remove the lower leaves from the cut part. To dry the cut, leave it in the air for one hour.
- take a container and pour vermiculite into it - this is a special mineral that is used for rooting cuttings (it can be purchased at garden centers or replace with charcoal). Alternatively, the cutting can be dipped into a solution of root, a drug that accelerates the formation of roots in plants.
- moisten the soil and place the cuttings in it. Water again with warm water.
- provide lighting, avoiding direct light and warm temperature regime.
After three weeks, the plant’s root system will develop and it can be transplanted into the soil substrate.
You can plant the cutting directly into the ground, but the soil must have a high peat content. For the best effect, make a kind of greenhouse or provide the required temperature (24-26°C), humidification and watering.
If the mother plant is now a stump, then cover it with a jar and place it in a warm and bright place. Signs of new growth can be seen on it after a few months. Remove all buds directed inward; there should be no more than five of them left. This is done so that the shoots that develop do not interfere with each other. Otherwise, the crown will be uncontrollable in density, and as a result, diseases and pests will occur along with deformation of the shoots.
2. If the top of your head has died and only one stump remains, and you really want to save the plant, then use the following propagation method. To do this, take the stem and cut it into 5-20 cm pieces along the leaf scars. The cutting is placed horizontally or vertically in vermiculite, sand or soil substrate and creates a kind of greenhouse effect. If you used the vertical method, then you will not need to replant the cuttings into the ground.
Proper cultivation plays an important role in the provision of plants. Not everyone knows what instructions for caring for dracaena at home should be followed. The following tips will guide you through the process of proper plant growing.
Dracaena: home care - soil, lighting, conditions for flowering
Soil: If you do not want to purchase a special soil mixture for the agave family, you can prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to take 1 part of turf soil (harvested in meadows and pastures) + 1 part of perlite ( light light a mineral that serves as a substitute for sand) or sand itself, or peat + 1 part of compost or leaf humus. You can also use coal or broken bricks as a baking powder. Be sure to place expanded clay at the bottom of the pot. Thanks to this, various stagnation of water will be prevented in the soil, which can destroy the entire plant.
It's even easier to take three parts garden soil, 1 part peat and coarse sand. Don’t forget to put about 3 cm of drainage at the bottom.
With the so-called When transferring into a deep pot, it is advisable to replace the top layer of soil. Properly selected soil is the key successful development and plant growth.
Light: This plant is quite tolerant of light in a wide range of conditions. But avoid direct sunlight, it is better if the lighting is diffused. At the same time, lack of light can lead to much slower plant growth. This applies to the case when the plant is located in the middle of the room. It grows tall and quickly loses its attractive appearance and sophistication. In this case, pruning will help him. It is recommended to carry it out in spring and summer. In its procedure, it resembles the process of “reproduction by the crown”. Don’t forget to treat the edges of the cuts with special products.
Temperature: should always be warm (20-23°C), regardless of the season outside. At low temperatures, dracaena will not grow and may even die. The minimum temperature for keeping is 13°C. Do not forget that dracaena is afraid of drafts. Take care of her.
Conditions for flowering. Surprised? It turns out that our decorative foliage plant is also blooming. Although this flowering cannot be called impressive. The inflorescence is a spike or raceme containing small and colorless flowers. For flowering, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime and the regime of watering and moistening. But don’t have much hope, since dracaena blooms quite rarely and most often only fragrant dracaena.
Bloom fragrant dracaena
Dracaena: care at home - feeding and watering
Humidity: if the ambient humidity is high, the plant grows well. Try to spray as often as possible this plant.
Watering the soil should be moderate and should be done as it dries. This is approximately 2 times a month in winter and once a week in summer. It is important here to prevent either excess moisture or drying out of the soil. The water must be warm.
Fertilizers: such needs are quite simple. In summer and spring, you can apply water-soluble fertilizers twice a month. When it is winter or autumn outside, fertilizer is not required. During the period of active growth, plants are recommended organic fertilizers, and from mid-summer - mineral. Important: the soil must remain moist during fertilization.
Fluorine: these plants are very sensitive to it, so the effects of this chemical substance should be kept to a minimum. Fluorine can be found in tap water, so it is important to use clean and distilled water.
Dracaena: care at home: why does it die?
In most cases, the owner of dracaenas is concerned about the condition of the dracaena leaves. They start to darken from the tip and then the entire leaf turns brown and dies. Trimming dead leaves does not solve the problem. Here we need to think about the reasons that led to such results.
Some of the most common reasons for this are:
— the plant is flooded. This can also lead to rotting of the plant's roots. To resuscitate dracaena, remove it from the pot, cut off the roots with rot, sprinkle them with activated charcoal or charcoal powder and replant them in a new substrate;
— not watered enough– brown spots appear on the leaves and they dry out. In this case, adjust watering to moderate. Trim off the brown tips of the leaves.
— low humidity in combination with high temperature. Avoid placing a pot of dracaena close to heating radiators. If this cannot be avoided, spray the plant regularly.
Excessive lighting is indicated by the appearance of light and dry spots on the leaves or they are weakly colored.
If the temperature in the house is too low, the leaves become soft, curl, fall and rot.
Always use well-drained soil to avoid future problems. If the trunk of your plant is healthy, but the leaves have dried out or fallen off, remove them. Continue to spray the trunk regularly and provide it necessary conditions. Soon it will sprout new shoots. Keep in mind, however, that the falling of the lower leaves of the plant is a normal process for dracaena.
If the trunk wrinkles, this means that the whole plant is rotting.
Mechanical damage can also cause plant death. But in this case there is a way out. Use one of the propagation methods to replant a broken top or root from a broken pot. Caring and proper care at first will revive your plant.
Another reason for the death of a plant can be an initially diseased plant that you bought in a store. Do not purchase a plant with the following characteristics:
- wrinkled trunk;
- drooping tops;
- translucent or brown young leaves;
- rotting root tips;
- smell of mold and rot.
Buying a healthy plant will save you from unnecessary expenses and worries that you are doing something wrong.
Potential problems to control: diseases and pests
Dracaena can be destroyed by various pests, which is why it is very important to know about natural solutions to these problems.
Spider pincers are sucking insects that cause uneven leaves. To get rid of them, you can spray the plant with a houseplant insecticide.
Shchitovka When they appear, you need to scrape them off and treat the leaves. alcohol solution.
Mealybug – sucking insects that are clearly visible. Use a cotton swab dipped in a soap solution to remove them from the surface of the leaves, and treat the leaves themselves with an alcohol solution.
Aphid– when affected by this pest, the leaves of the plant turn yellow, curl and fall off. To combat them, insecticides are used (actellik, fitoverm, decis, inta-vir).
Thrips- small insects that attack both flowers and leaves. To the naked eye they look like black dots. You can get rid of them by ruthlessly removing the leaves and treating them with confidor.
The most common diseases that affect the plant include:
1) Leaves are yellow and have white spots near the tips. The disease is treated by maintaining moderate humidity, lighting conditions and temperature.
2) Fluoride toxicity - Leaves have dark brown and dead zones with yellow borders. Management: Avoid using soil amendments that contain fluoride.
3) Leaf spot - reddish spots on young leaves. Iprodione, methyl thiophanate, mancozeb and chlorothalonil are used.
4) Soft rot - soft, brown rot and an unpleasant odor from rooted cuttings. Clean the roots from the old soil and plant in new soil.
5) At low temperatures and high humidity, it may develop gray rot(Botrytis) - brown spots on the leaves.
Conducting regular inspections of your plants and promptly preventive measures will keep your plant beautiful and healthy.
Dracaenas have beautiful patterns of color (with pink, yellow, white and red stripes) and can liven up any area. If you know when to replant, how to care for them at home and follow all the above recommendations, then your healthy plant will surprise everyone around.
Dracaena- magnificent homemade deciduous ornamental plant, giving to the room in which it grows and to everyone around positive energy. It is popularly believed that this plant can induce eloquence in a person, that is, it helps silent people to talk. It is also believed that dracaena can feel good only when it is surrounded by hardworking people.
Translated from Greek "Drakaniana" ("Dracaena") - "female dragon". This plant is associated with the belief that women born in the year of the Dragon are very smart and businesslike. Their favorite room must have this plant.
I also like the look of dracaena with its graceful trunk and thin long leaves reminiscent of the “feathers” of a dragon. Therefore, in this article I decided to tell the readers of House of Knowledge how to properly care for this gorgeous plant.
General information about dracaena.
Scientists have long argued about which family to include Dracaena (lat. Dracaena): Dracaenaceae, Ruscusaceae or Agaceae. Over time, the point was made as to where exactly this plant belongs: the Asparagaceae or Asparagus family.
The tropics are considered the homeland of the beautiful dracaena, namely South America, India, central and eastern Africa, as well as the Canarsike Islands. Scientists have already registered up to 200 varieties of this plant. In most cases, this plant has a tree-like form and in nature its stem can reach a diameter of 2 m. Dracaena has lanceolate, linear, belt-shaped and, less often, oval, rather dense leaves.
At home, these plants almost never bloom, and if this happens, it is only in good conditions and for about 9-10 years of life indoors. Dracaena inflorescences are quite small, having creamy-green or white flowers in the form of stars.
Varieties of dracaena.
As I said earlier, there are many types of dracaenas in nature, but there are several that, due to their relatively small sizes and unpretentiousness are most often grown in homes and offices.
Dracaena fragrant or Dracaena fragrans. This long-liver came to our homes from the eastern and western parts of Africa. Dracaena fragrant has a thick trunk, from the buds of which young shoots grow. The leaves of this plant have a wide lanceolate shape with slightly wavy edges and reach 60-80 cm in length and up to 10 cm in width. They are mostly green, but there are also varieties with different leaf colors. At home, fragrant dracaena can reach 2.5 m in height. Plants with solid green leaves are quite unpretentious to their growing conditions.
Dracaena marginata (lat. Dracaena Marginata) is also called “Bordered Dracaena” or “Bent Dracaena”. This narrow-leaved plant is also long-lived and came to our homes from the island of Madagascar. This dracaena reaches a height of 3 m and has a thick lignified trunk that practically does not sprout branches. Leaves of this beautiful plant narrow and long, reaching a length of 80 cm and a width of up to 2 cm. They are pointed at the ends, quite rigid and have a glossy or waxy appearance. The leaves are green in color and often have brown, yellow or red stripes on the edges. In homes, apartments and offices, Dracaena fringe is one of the most common types of these plants.
Dracaena sandera(eng. Dracaena Sanderiana) flew to us from western Africa. Quite often this plant is sold in the form of bamboo bundles, so it is sometimes popularly called “Dracaena Lucky Bamboo”. This plant, compared to other types of dracaena, is quite compact and reaches a height of 1 m. The shoots of Dracaena sendera are densely covered with light green or variegated foliage, up to 25 cm long. To give the plant exotic looking after planting several cuttings (while they are still young), they are twisted in a spiral or braided into a braid or braid.
Also in gardeners' homes you can find other popular types of dracaena, such as, for example, Dracaena Goldieana Hort, Dracaena Godseffiana Hort, Dracaena hookeriana K. Koch, Dracaena Capitate (Dracaena phrynoides Hook), etc.
Caring for dracaena at home.
Dracaenas are completely unpretentious green beauties, so almost all species do not require any special care. Everything they need for wellness, this is their owner’s compliance with simple recommendations.
Lighting for dracaena.
All dracaenas that have green leaves feel normal in partial shade, but I still recommend placing them in brightly lit areas of the room, but without direct sunlight on the plant. It is better not to grow varieties with variegated colored foliage in shade or partial shade, as in such conditions their leaves may lose their color. With a lack of light, dracaena weakens its already slow growth.
Window sills with windows facing east or west are considered excellent for growing all types of dracaena. If you place the pot on the northern windowsill, then it will need to install additional artificial lighting, and vice versa, if you grow dracaena on a south window, then it needs to be shaded, shielded from bright rays.
Watering dracaena.
For irrigation, it is advisable to use settled tap water at room temperature.
IN spring-summer period When “rapid” growth of dracaena occurs, it is watered abundantly, but only after 2-3 cm of the top layer of soil has dried, which usually occurs in 8-10 days.
From autumn until the end winter cold, the soil dries out more slowly and the plant rests, so dracaena during this period needs to be watered quite rarely. For example, if the ambient temperature is 8-10 0 C, then this is done no more often than once every 1-1.5 months. But if a pot with a plant is located near a heating device, for example, near a radiator, and the soil dries out quickly, then it needs to be watered more often (once every 3-4 weeks).
Dracaena tolerates very poorly frequent watering, leading to stagnation of water, and it also does not like droughts, which dry out the root system of the plant.
Air humidity for dracaena.
Dracaena loves high humidity, so many sites on the Internet recommend spraying it at least once every 1-2 days. But, as with pandanus, I don't recommend doing this as often due to water getting between the leaves. It stagnates there and, mixed with dust, begins to rot, causing rapid growth pathogenic fungi and bacteria that kill the plant.
If you need to remove dust from the plant, this can be done by wiping the leaves with a soft damp cloth or washing the dracaena in a shower at room temperature, then thoroughly shake off the water from the upper part of the plant with leaves. Before taking a shower, cover the soil with a bag so as not to wash away the top layer of soil.
Temperature regime for dracaena.
Dracaena is a heat-loving plant, however, it does not tolerate temperatures above 31-33 0 C. In summer, all species feel good at 20-23 0 C, and in winter - from 15 0 C to 18 0 C, but not lower than 10-13 0 WITH.
Some dracaenas prefer coolness in winter rather than heat from heating devices, so in a warm room and with insufficient lighting they may lose their lower leaves. To prevent this from happening, I recommend that in winter, place the plant away from the radiator and closer to a closed window, near which it is always brighter and cooler.
Dracaena fertilizer.
To fertilize dracaena, I recommend using special store-bought complex fertilizers intended for indoor plants. At the same time, strictly follow the instructions for use, since an overdose can have a detrimental effect not only on the root system of the plant, but also on the stems and leaves. Remember, it is always better to underfeed a plant with fertilizer than to overfeed it.
During the period of active growth (summer), dracaena must be fertilized approximately once every 6-8 days, and during dormancy (winter) - no more than once a month.
Soil for dracaena.
Dracaenas prefer neutral or slightly acidic light nutrient soil mixtures. High-quality household soils are well suited for them. deciduous plants or for palm trees, sold in flower shops.
If desired and possible, you can prepare the soil mixture for dracaena yourself. To do this you need to mix:
- Sod land (1 part);
- Deciduous soil (1 part);
- Coarse-grained sand (1 part);
- Peat (1 part);
- Humus (1 part).
If you don’t have all these components, then you can use the mixture as a primer:
- Sod land (1 part);
- Sand (1 part);
- Humus (1 part).
Self-prepared mixtures require heat treatment, since their components may contain harmful fungi, bacteria and other pests. To get rid of them, I recommend calcining the soil in the oven and then cooling to room temperature.
You can also add a little charcoal and fine brick chips as a leavening agent to these mixtures.
Dracaena transplant.
All types of dracaena require periodic transplanting into a larger pot. For young plants, the pot and soil are changed every year, and for adults - every two to three years. As soil, use the mixtures described in the paragraph “Soil for dracaena”.
It is better to replant dracaena early spring until the plant fully awakens. I recommend using the transshipment method. To do this, prepare fresh soil and a new pot 2-3 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. At the bottom, be sure to make a few centimeter (depending on the size of the pot and root system) drainage from expanded clay or vermiculite. One layer of drainage will not be enough, since dracaena does not have a large root system, and the one that does exist is considered pre-surface. Then, along with the soil, carefully remove the plant from the old pot and remove only that part of the soil that is easily separated. Then sprinkle the drainage with a thin layer of soil and place the plant on it. After that, center it and fill in the empty spaces new soil. There is no need to compact it. Just tap the pot lightly and it will settle down on its own. Now all that remains is to water the dracaena generously and place it in a well-lit, warm place. The next waterings are carried out after the top layer of soil has dried, and fertilizing can begin no earlier than a month after transplantation.
Dracaena propagation.
Dracaena is propagated in three ways: apical cuttings, stem cuttings and seeds.
Propagation of dracaena by apical cuttings.
This is perhaps the simplest and fastest method of propagating dracaena. To do this, use a sharp knife to separate the upper part (crown) of the stem with leaves. The length of this cutting should be 10-15cm from the leaves to the cut. Then let it air dry a little at room temperature and place it in a suitable sized glass of water for rooting. To disinfect water, you can throw one tablet of activated carbon into it. Then place the glass with the plant in a warm place with good lighting, but not in the sun. Do not forget to periodically add settled warm water to the glass. In such conditions, after 2-3 months the plant will take root and it can be planted in a normal pot in the ground (see paragraph “Transplanting dracaena”).
Propagation of dracaena by stem cuttings.
This is a fairly simple propagation method, for which only strong young stems are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cut it into 4-5 centimeter pieces. All of them should have 2-5 buds. Then carefully cut the bottom of the bark of each piece and stick this side into the previously prepared soil. Then you need to water the cuttings well and make them greenhouse conditions. To do this, cover them with transparent film, plastic bottles with cut necks or regular jars. In this form, place the cuttings warmly under good diffused lighting. Do not forget to water the plants on time and remove the greenhouses for half an hour every day to ventilate the young dracaenas. With proper care, the plants will send out their first shoots within 1-1.5 months, and when they take root normally, you can plant them in pots.
Reproduction of dracaena by seeds.
Propagating dracaena by seeds is not at all difficult, but it is not quick and troublesome. Firstly, before sowing, soak the seeds for a day at elevated temperature(26-30 0 C) in a solution of a growth stimulator, for example, in “Zircon”. Then make holes in the soil (section “Soil for dracaena”), put the seeds there and lightly sprinkle with soil. After this, water the seeds and cover them with film to create a greenhouse. Then place it in a warm place with good lighting. At the same time, do not forget to periodically water and ventilate the seeds so that they do not rot.
In good conditions, dracaena seeds will begin to germinate within 1.5-2 months. When the sprouts reach 5-7 cm in height, they can be transplanted into permanent pots (see paragraph “Transplanting dracaena”).
Problems of growing dracaena.
Dracaenas are not fastidious plants, but anything can happen, and therefore you need to know what is happening to your plant. Below are the difficulties that dracaena owners periodically face.
The edges or tips of dracaena leaves turn brown and dry out.
In most cases, this is due to too dry air. To eliminate this problem, I recommend placing the pot with dracaena on damp expanded clay or placing flat containers of water around it. Other reasons for drying out of the tips of dracaena leaves may be poor watering, as well as cool drafts.
Brown spots on dracaena leaves.
One of the reasons is poor watering, as a result of which the roots of the plant dry out. To correct this situation, do not try to flood the plant more and more often, as this is also harmful. Just normalize the watering.
Dracaena leaves curl and become soft.
Most likely this is due to lack of heat.
The lower leaves of the dracaena turn yellow.
For old lower leaves it is natural process, since the dracaena constantly exposes the trunk, and the leaves turn yellow and die.
Light, dry spots appeared on the leaves of the dracaena.
Often these are sunburns on the leaves of the plant. When such spots appear, first remove the dracaena from the sun.
Dracaena pests.
Most often, home dracaena can be attacked by scale insects and false scale insects, spider mites and thrips.
Scale insects and false scale insects on dracaena.
At the initial stage of infection, wash the plant with a light soap solution, and in case of severe infection, it is necessary to fresh air treat the leaves with Actellik.
Spider mite on dracaena.
This pest indoor plant does not tolerate high humidity, so for treatment it is recommended to spray dracaena until the mites are completely destroyed. Also, after spraying, you can put it on the plant for a short time. plastic bag. Created this way high humidity will kill pests. If this does not help, then you will have to use chemicals against ticks, sold in flower shops.
Thrips on dracaena.
To combat these small black insects, apply a soapy solution to the plant and wash it off the next day. Repeat until the insects are completely destroyed. You can also set traps. To do this, fill a container with water and place it near the plant. Once in the water, insects will die.
P.S.
Dracaenas bring only positive emotions to me and my family, so I can confidently recommend that you get this green female dragon.
Interesting on YouTube:
Dracaena is a tropical African plant. Due to its attractive, even exotic, appearance for our area, it has become popular among us. It fits perfectly into the interiors of offices and homes, and has many more positive qualities.
Dracaena is a shrub that consists of a rosette of leaves located on straight stems, which with age turn into a trunk (woody tissue). Dracaena, depending on age, can reach a height of 10 cm to 2-3 m.
Dracaena leaves are mostly bright green, elongated from the base by 15 - 70 centimeters. At home, depending on the type of dracaena and the quality of care, it can live 10-15 years. She has established herself as an unpretentious plant. Caring for it, if you follow the rules of care, does not cause much trouble.
Rules of care:
Lighting. Dracaena is a light-loving plant, but does not like direct sunlight. For her, diffused light is better. For dracaena species with dark green leaves, it is required less light than for variegated ones. Leaves lose their natural color when there is insufficient lighting.
Watering. It needs to be watered abundantly. The intensity of watering depends on the volume of the dish (flowerpot, pot), time of year, location.
It should be watered when the surface layer of soil dries out by 2-3 cm. It is preferable to water Dracaena systematically, preferably with filtered water or boiled water. Before watering, the top layer of soil must be loosened.
How to water in summer
Dracaena, in summer, is watered once every 2 days. If the leaves begin to wither, you need to increase the frequency of watering. Dracaena leaves, in summer, are sprayed with water at room temperature.
How to water in winter
Dracaena hibernates in winter; it needs to be watered once every 3 days. Watering time is determined by the dry outer layer of soil. If overwatered, the root system may rot.
Rules of care:
Feeding. Dracaena is fed only during its growth period - from late March to early autumn. Fertilizing is applied once every 2 weeks. To do this, it is better to use fertilizers offered flower shops. Such as: “Rainbow”, “Dracaena”, “Ideal”, “New Ideal”.
Humidity. Dracaenas need moist air. There are also species that are resistant to dry air, these are: “Dracaena Godsefa” and “Dracaena dragon”, other types need to be sprayed frequently.
Reproduction
Dracaenas are propagated in three ways:
- Seeds;
- Stem cuttings;
- Layering from the top
Moreover, only green forms of dracaena reproduce by seeds; variegated dracaenas reproduce vegetatively.
Multiply, better in spring.
Detailed consideration of reproduction methods:
Seminal. Before planting, seeds are soaked in special solution, for example, in “Zircon”, for 1 day, at a temperature of 23-28 degrees. Then sow them in special soil for palm plants.
After planting, water and place in a warm place, closing the containers plastic film. After 1-2 months, the seeds will germinate. The sprouts should not be exposed to direct sunlight. In the future, they only need to be watered and fed once a month. After the sprout becomes 5-6 centimeters long, it is transplanted into a permanent container.
Cuttings. To do this, you need to select a young strong stem, cut it into cuttings, 3 - 5 cm each. Each cutting must have at least 2 buds. On one side of the cutting, cut the bark and stick it into the prepared soil. Then put it in a warm place out of direct sunlight. The first shoots appear after 1-1.5 months. Young shoots must be periodically sprayed with water.
Layers from the top. To do this, you need to take a cutting (top) and place it in water at room temperature. I also put a tablet of activated carbon there. The cuttings will give roots in 3 months, and then they are transplanted into the ground.
Transfer
The longevity of dracaena depends on timely transplantation. It has a powerful root system, which, over time, becomes cramped in the pot. For a plant whose height is 40 centimeters, the diameter of the pot must be no less than 15 cm. If this condition is not met, the plant must be transplanted into another container.
When replanting, special soil for palm trees is used. When replanting, you need to put a little drainage on the bottom of the pot. After transplanting, be sure to water the plant.
Trimming
When pruning the dracaena trunk, the development of lateral buds is stimulated, and the branching process begins. The best time for this procedure is spring and early summer. You can trim plants whose height is no less than 30 cm. It is necessary to cut on the bare stem, below the last leaves, by 5 cm.
If the entire stem is covered with leaves, then you can trim it at your discretion. You just need to know that after pruning, the trunk will not grow. The cut area needs to be processed activated carbon, powder, and then “Zircon”, and place the dracaena itself in a warm place.
Diseases
The most common pests:
- Spider mite- affects the leaves, the leaves become yellowish and begin to dry out. The tick appears mainly where there is dry air. To combat them, increase the air humidity, spray the plants, treat them with a chemical, for example, “Fufan”.
- Shchitovka- very quickly affects the plant from all sides. Lives on stems and leaves. After a scale insect attack, dracaena growth slows down and the leaves turn yellow. The plant may die if measures are not taken in time. Control methods: wash the leaves with a mixture of soapy water and vodka, if the plant is not severely damaged. If the dracaena is severely damaged, it must be treated, outdoors, "Aktellikom".
- Thrips- tiny black insect. They start on leaves. Dracaena growth slows down, the leaves become covered with spots. To combat them, treat the leaves with soapy water, wash off after a day. If it doesn’t help, then repeat the procedure and install a trap for insects.
Now you know how to care for dracaena so that it always pleases your eye, while neatly fitting into the interior of your office or home.