DIY bathroom installation. Self-installation and connection of a bathtub is a job for a skilled craftsman

The bathroom is the place where our every day begins and ends. Now it is difficult to imagine life without hygiene procedures. There is a bathroom in every living space, be it a private house or an apartment. Each of us wants to arrange this small room so that it is not only functional, but also cozy. How to install a bath yourself? Let's find out more.

If you have started a bathroom renovation and doubt that you are capable of installing a bathtub yourself, don’t worry, you will definitely succeed. Of course, the process itself cannot be called easy; it will require skill, dexterity and knowledge. It is important to strictly follow all the recommendations in order to correctly not only install the bowl itself, but also connect the communications. But before we begin to study the process itself, let's look at the types of bathtubs so that you can decide on the choice of this important attribute.

Choosing a bath. What to pay attention to

Since you have a difficult task ahead of you - replacing a bathtub, you need to decide and choose the appropriate option:

1. A tin or steel structure is a cheap option, but installing such a bathtub alone or even with an assistant will not be easy. This is not the only thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a bath. A bowl made of metal will not last long. If you open the tap and close the plug to draw in water and then release it, then during such manipulations the metal will “play”, and this will negatively affect the coating. The only thing that can be recommended is to install a steel bathtub in a small bathroom so that it is surrounded by walls on three sides. Only in this case can vibrations of thin metal be reduced and the load minimized.
2. A cast iron bathtub has a high degree of strength and wear resistance (if you care for it properly, of course). It is very difficult to install a cast iron bathtub with your own hands, as it is very heavy. But this is not the main thing, the fact is that it is very, very unlikely to “plant” a bathtub on an old siphon so as not to damage it. The siphon must first be attached to the bowl itself and only after that can the entire structure be installed, which also does not guarantee that the siphon will remain intact. If the bathtub “stands” on legs, then leveling it is very difficult, since the metal cannot withstand heavy loads. The use of such a bathtub can lead to sad consequences - when the product is under load, when we climb inside, the legs first bend and then may even break. So you can install a cast-iron bathtub only in a niche so that it is supported on three sides by walls (between 3 walls).
3. Acrylic or plastic bath. The service life of such a product is more than 15 years. The cost of an acrylic bathtub is slightly lower than a cast iron one. You can install such a bathtub yourself (with an assistant) without any problems. By the way, if you compare a cast-iron bathtub with an acrylic one, this product differs in that damaged enamel can be restored (this is problematic in a cast-iron bathtub). And yet, an acrylic bathtub can only be used for its intended purpose, that is, to shower and bathe, no chemical substances and solutions cannot be poured into the bath (even if it is an aqueous solution).

What else should you consider when choosing a bath? Of course, such an important indicator as heat loss. Remember what our grandmothers said? A cast iron bathtub is the most reliable; it retains heat for a long time. Let's check if this is the case.

Heat loss of each bath:

• acrylic - the most economical option. The bathtub warms up quickly and cools down very slowly, because the plastic from which the bathtub is made conducts heat very poorly. For example, if you have a water heater at home and you set the water temperature to 60 o C, then to fill the bathtub at a comfortable temperature for swimming (40 o C), you need only 50 liters of water;
• steel bath. At first glance, it seems that if a bathtub is made of steel, then it should be economical, but this is not the case. Here is a simple example: a 50 liter water heater is barely enough to take 1 bath, provided that the upper mark of the boiler is set to a maximum of 80 o C. Not every boiler can operate in this mode. The steel bath heats up quickly and transfers its heat into the room. That is, the room will be warm, but the water in the bathroom will cool down faster;
• bathtub made of cast iron - it takes a long time to warm up and gives off heat well. This is a plus, but if you calculate everything, it turns out that washing in a cast iron bathtub will cost 1.5 times more than “washing” in a steel bathtub and 2.5 times higher than in an acrylic bathtub. You will have to buy a 100 liter boiler (barely enough for a small family of 2, maximum 3 people). There is something to think about.

How to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands

Installing a bathtub is not an easy task and is very responsible, because the bowl itself is very bulky, and if the room is small, it is easy to damage the coating of either the bathtub itself, or damage the doors or walls. Therefore, you cannot cope with such tasks alone; you will need an assistant. This is the first. The second nuance is the need to install plumbing. You will have to do this work almost blindly, so you need to think everything through in advance so as not to mess anything up.

The third point is accuracy. When installing an acrylic bowl, you need to be extremely careful and careful - you can’t let a heavy tool fall into the bathtub, as you can ruin not only the coating, but the entire bowl as a whole.

Preparations are important

So, we decided on the choice of bathtub, purchased an installation kit, and prepared the tools. This is not enough; first you need to prepare the room for installing the bathtub. It’s good if you don’t need to tile the floor and walls, but just install a bathtub. But what to do if the renovation starts from scratch?

Preparation in order:

1. It is better to postpone cladding the walls in the place where you plan to install the bathtub until later. We install the bath close to the wall. The wall is still “bare” and without finishing. We move the bathroom close and waterproof it (fill the joint between the wall and the bathroom with colorless sealant). Now you can tile the wall, starting from the bathtub. The first tile should be overhanging to prevent moisture from getting under the bathtub. It’s okay that such a row of tiles will stand out; you can even beat this and put a row of tiles of a different color.
2. If you are only planning to replace the bathtub and not replace the tiles, then new design you need to put it at least 2 cm higher than it stood old bath(the legs can be turned 4/5 or 3/4). Why is this necessary? The fact is that an unsightly area will form in place of the old bathtub (the tiles in this place will be different in color), so you need to slightly raise the legs of the bathtub to close it.

If everything is clear with the walls, now you need to deal with the floor. To install a bathtub, the floor must be level and durable. This is especially true for cast iron bowls. You must be sure that the floor tiles are laid on solid and durable cement. If there are voids there, the tiles will crack under the heavy weight of the bathtub. What to do if you are not sure about the strength of the floor? Then you can put boards on the floor (we choose larch boards) and lay them so that the legs stand on the boards. Wood (forty board) must be pre-treated with drying oil. By the way, laying the boards will help decide the height of the bathtub.

To waterproof an installed bathtub, it is important not to rush - you need to fill the bowl with water and leave it for 7 days (minimum 2 days) to evenly distribute the load on the floor.

What should be the height of the bathtub?

If you are looking for answers to the question of how to install regular and corner bath with your own hands, then you also need to take into account the height of the bathtub itself. This is very important not only for the convenience of plumbing, but also for wall cladding. If you raise the bath higher, you can install a siphon with a recessed elbow. This will allow dirty water do not stagnate and improve the outflow of water from the bath. If you raise the bowl 5 cm, you can get rid of the accumulation of debris and hair in the siphon. If you have ever encountered cleaning a siphon, then you will understand how unpleasant the job is.

Which drain valve to buy

The drain fittings are made of plastic, PVC and polyisopropylene. The second material is stronger than PVC, the material is resistant to aggressive environments and does not lose its properties over time. The material is easy to distinguish by touch, the first will be a little rough, and the second smooth. This is very important during operation, since a propylene hose can pass a large flow of water. Such hoses are less susceptible to clogging than drain fittings made of PVC.

What else you need to buy:

1. It is advisable to choose a drain without a bolt. Since it can quickly rust on the drain and it will no longer be possible to unscrew it. If you need to remove the drain, you will have to break it to install a new one. A bolt made of another material (brass or bronze) will not solve the problem, as it will also oxidize over time.
2. Drain mesh. It is not advisable to buy a cross-shaped mesh; it quickly “catches” the hair, but it is very difficult to get it out of there. A good option is a mesh with round holes, or even better - a mesh with oblique profiled holes. Then you can wash even carpet runners in the bathtub without fear that the drain will clog.
3. Overflow pipe - it’s better to stop at flexible hose with wide clearance.
4. The choice of plug is also important. If you buy a cork with a chain, it will quickly rust and break. The best option is to use colored strong fishing line instead of a chain so that it is clearly visible in the water.

How to install a clawfoot bathtub with your own hands

To install the bathtub, you will need a special tool; we recommend preparing everything in advance so that there are no misunderstandings later:

• prepare a rigid bar (the length of the bar is equal to the diagonal length of the bathtub). This will be our level;
• wrench for tightening fasteners. An adjustable wrench will not work; you need a fork wrench. Pliers are also not the best option, as they can damage the fasteners and the bathtub;
• a small rubber hammer to help shrink the bathtub legs during assembly. Tapping with such a hammer will prevent the formation of cracks in the enamel when installing the bathtub.

You also need to prepare colorless silicone sealant, soft fabric tape, clean rags and a hair dryer.

Regardless of what type of bathtub needs to be installed (acrylic, cast iron or metal), it is necessary to align the bowl with the level of the sewer. You need to remember that any bathtub needs to be raised if the corner is lowered, but under no circumstances should the raised corner be lowered. We have already mentioned that the higher the bathtub is installed (on legs or bricks), the drain will be cleaner. It is very important that pairing with sewer drain was performed after leveling the bathtub. Therefore, the cuff must be made of soft material in order to install the drain pipe at any angle of inclination. By the way, instead of a finished cuff, you can use sealant or soft rubber (rubber, raw rubber). Externally, it is a white soft plastic mass; such a connection is considered reliable and will last up to 100 years. By the way, they used raw rubber back in Soviet times, it was called “military sealant.”

Remember what to use construction foam prohibited! It expands greatly when it hardens and can cover the entire space. You'll have to buy new materials and do it all over again.

How to install a regular and corner acrylic bathtub with your own hands:

1. Align the bowl diagonally. First you need to set the rights And cut diagonally across the bowl to align horizontally. At the same time, tighten the bolts of the bathtub legs.
2. We move the bar to the other edge and repeat the steps. We check that the first diagonal does not go astray (when the floor is flat, this will not happen).
3. Now you need to level the level along the sides of the bathtub - to do this, simply place the bar on the edge of the bathtub and adjust the legs on each side. We go to the opposite side and repeat the steps.
4. It is important that the bathtub stands horizontally; there is no need to tilt it, since it is provided for in the design of the bowl itself.
5. Now you need to prepare all the parts to connect the bathtub to the sewer. All parts must be clean and dry. Take the time to wipe them with a dry, clean cloth, especially from the inside.
6. And it’s also very important: when assembling the pipe and connecting it to the sewer, make sure that there is no drainage from the kitchen or sink. If you are going to install a sink in the bathroom with your own hands, then you need to thoroughly clean the pipe and the pipe itself at least 50 cm in each direction, and then wipe with a dry cloth. If you find plaque inside, you can leave it, but you will have to dry the walls. After soaking the pipes with a rag, use a hairdryer.

For clarity and understanding of the work process, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the bathtub installation diagram:

How to install a steel bathtub with your own hands

Installing a bathtub is not an easy task; first you need to assemble the entire structure - attach guides for support, install a frame for an acrylic bathtub. It is very important to correctly mark the screws. If the instructions don’t say anything, then the front position should be set at 17 cm, the second is where the bowl transitions to the curve at the back. The points need to be marked with a pencil and holes drilled. The bathtub must be placed on its side to attach the drain fittings. There are some peculiarities here: you need to lubricate each gasket with silicone and install a drain gasket on the outside. We insert the conical gasket (between the drain and overflow hose) with its sharp side against the cut hose so that it is inserted into the spacer when tightened. The thread should not be tightened too tightly.

Now the bathtub can be placed upside down to screw the legs, after which it can be turned around and carried into the bathroom to be placed straight into place and pushed tightly against the wall. When you install the bathtub, make sure that the water outlet hole coincides with the sewer pipe. If not, the bowl needs to be leveled and only then the joints must be properly sealed. A little trick: while the sealant has not yet completely set, try to tighten the joint with a wrench. One person should sit in the bath and hold the parts, the second should tighten all the joints. After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check all joints to ensure that water does not seep through. If you find sagging or leaks of sealant, you can remove them with a rag soaked in vinegar. Colorless sealant should be used to fill all the gaps between the wall and the sides of the bathtub.

By the way, to fix the legs of the bathtub, you need to insert them into the fasteners and tighten them with nuts (you can use bolts or wedges). Remember that the fixation of the legs must be strong. To get rid of the noise of water when filling the bath, you can place pieces of rubber (cut from a car inner tube).

Only after the bathtub has been installed and connected to the sewer can you install the faucet in the bathroom yourself.

How to install a bathtub with your own hands video:

The bathroom is an essential attribute of a modern person. Here you can not only cleanse your body of the dirt accumulated during the day, but also relax after work, plunging into your thoughts for a while. That is why you should take the choice of a bathtub very seriously, as well as its installation, since not only will depend on these two factors appearance bathroom, but also the morale of the homeowners.

Don’t forget about savings, since installing such a product is a costly affair, and sometimes it’s better to do all the work yourself.

The very first step when replacing a bathtub is choosing the type that will be installed. The durability, appearance and practicality of use will depend on the choice of material from which the product is made. Especially if a boiler is installed as a heater. IN this moment The market offers several types of bathtubs, which differ in material:

1. Steel - perfect option for those who want to save as much as possible, but due to its cheapness it has a number of disadvantages: metal deformation (deflections) under weight, noise when filling with water. This type is quite easy to install, since a man of average build can easily handle the weight of the product. To reduce the likelihood of deformation and damage to the enamel during operation, you need to select the bathtub itself of such dimensions that it contacts and is attached to three walls.

Steel baths have high level heat transfer. In order to fill a standard-sized bathtub you will need about 50 liters of water with a temperature of at least 80 degrees. The only plus is that the metal warms up quickly.

2. Cast iron- with proper use and care, it can last for several generations. It is unrealistic to handle the weight of the product yourself, so installation will have to be done by several people. If a steel bathtub can be connected to an already installed siphon, then a cast iron product can break part of the communications due to one awkward movement. Another drawback is adjusting the level of the installed product. If the bathtub is equipped with legs of fixed sizes, you will have to put a lot of effort into leveling it. Adjustable legs in cast iron bathtubs can also be found, but they are quite flimsy and can break under a certain amount of force.

In order to take a cast iron bath you will need about 100 liters of hot water. The metal takes a very long time to heat up and gives off heat quickly. In terms of economy, one procedure will cost one and a half times more than in a steel bathtub.

3. Acrylic bath- lightweight, easy to install, durable (15-20 years). You will need at least two people for installation. The product does not tolerate aggressive detergents and is intended only for bathing (you can forget about a big wash using the good old methods). In terms of price, such bathtubs are cheaper than cast iron ones, but they can still hit the budget big time.

The most economical type of bathroom in terms of use for its intended purpose. The material gives off heat very slowly and warms up quickly, and for one use 50 liters of hot water with a temperature of 40 degrees is enough.

Acrylic bathtubs in Lately have become very popular, despite the fact that their price sometimes exceeds all possible limits. This popularity is due to the presence of a large assortment, as well as the ease of installation. Also, the buyer can choose not only a classic rectangular bowl, but also corner options, which expands the possibilities in interior decoration.

Preparing the bathroom for installation

Wall covering

It is best to install a bath directly during the renovation of the room, but before finishing the cladding. Since at this moment you can achieve maximum aesthetic and practical qualities, and during laying the tiles, you can effectively treat all the cracks that can let water through and create an ideal environment for the development of mold and bacteria.

If we are only talking about replacing the bathtub itself, you should make sure that the height of the product is 1.5-2 cm higher than the previous one. The part of the tile that the old container came into contact with was not subject to fading, and could also accumulate a fair amount of dirt on its surface and wash it, in most cases it is simply unrealistic.

Working with the floor

Before installing the bathtub, you need to once again make sure that the floor is perfectly flat and durable, especially if we are talking about installing a cast-iron bathtub, which is heavy even when unfilled. Tiles under a heavy bathtub should be laid using the pressing method, which allows you to get rid of voids under the material. It is because of them that the tile can crack.

To distribute the load that the bathtub will create when filled, you can use wooden joists. Most suitable tree- larch. The logs are pre-treated with antiseptic and antibacterial agents, then impregnated with drying oil or PVA putty.

Such logs will distribute the load and solve the issue of height. By the way, the latter will help solve not only the problem of appearance, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow, which prevents sewage waste from penetrating in the opposite direction. Also, thanks to the additional rise of the bathtub, less waste in the form of hair, etc. will accumulate in the siphon.

Drain fittings

When choosing drain fittings, you need to pay attention to the following characteristics:

1. Material. Products made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyisopropylene are available on the market. The second option is more durable, but will also be more expensive, but a number of advantages completely pay for the product:

• the material is several times harder than PVC, which significantly reduces the likelihood of mechanical damage during bath installation;
• does not lose its strength characteristics over time;
• has more smooth surface, which reduces the likelihood of contamination;
• has a higher coefficient useful action, since the friction of water against the walls of the pipes is much less.

2. Drain. Most drains on the market come from China and use a bolt during the installation process. Over time, such bolts will corrode, rust and oxidize, regardless of the material. Even if you purchase a stainless steel bolt separately, as a result of its contact with the mesh, a solder will form, which will reduce the likelihood of successful disassembly during repairs to zero.

3. Drain mesh. Most economical option- a mesh consisting of two crossbars forming a cross. This type is an ideal hair catcher. A more practical type in which round holes are located around the perimeter. The most expensive and reliable type is oblique, profiled holes in the mesh.

4. Cork chain– it is advisable not to use those products that come complete with drain nets, but to purchase a separate one. The best option is to use a chain designed for fishing, and covered with a layer of paint on top. The latter protects against negative impact water.

5. Overflow pipe. Although most older bathtubs use rigid pipe, it is best to use corrugated pipe, which has a larger capacity and diameter. These two indicators reduce the likelihood of water overflowing.

Bathtub dimensions - nuances

The dimensions of the bathtub will directly depend on the size of the room where the product will be located, as well as on those who will use it. Before purchasing the container itself, it is necessary to carefully measure the place where it will be located, and also take into account the presence of additional equipment, by type washing machines, dryers and boilers. It is worth remembering that bathtubs that are identical in appearance can have different volumes.

The most common sizes for different types baths:

1. Steel: length 150-180 cm, height 65 cm, width 70-85 cm.

2. Cast iron is available in several standardized sizes:

• small-sized: length – 120-130 cm, width 70 cm;
• European standard: length 140-150 cm, width 70 cm;
• large-sized: length 170-180 cm, width 70-85 cm.

3. Acrylic bathtubs are presented on the market in the most wide range, from 120 to 190 cm in length and 70-170 cm in width.

Small bathtubs are suitable for small rooms, but the process of bathing does not cause any pleasure at all. Also, don't count on more low cost, since compactness is a need and to satisfy it, you need to spend a little money.

If bathroom quite spacious, it’s worth choosing a cast iron or acrylic product. It is the range of the latter that is the most diverse: corner, with decorative trim, rectangular, square, polygonal, etc.

When you don’t want to spend money on an acrylic bathtub, you can purchase a plastic product. As a rule, they are purchased from Chinese manufacturers and are not of particular quality, and installation requires additional effort and attention to detail.

DIY bath installation: step-by-step guide

Installation of all types of bathtubs is carried out in several stages, but during the process you may need special tools and materials.

1. The rule is an even strip, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the bathtub. As such a tool, you can use any long and level bar on which a level is placed.
2. Fork wrench – required for tightening drain mechanisms, which are most often made of plastic.
3. Rubber hammer - can be useful when shrinking the legs of the bathtub. Usage metal products may cause deformation of the surface of the product, as well as damage the enamel.

Additional materials: silicone-based sealant and “rag” electrical tape. The latter is only needed when installing an acrylic bathtub.

Leveling the bathtub and connecting to the sewer

Leveling the bathtub is carried out using a level, and the main principle is to lift the lowered part, and not vice versa, since the height of the installed product is important for us.

Full connection to the sewerage system is carried out after complete installation baths, as the siphon can be damaged in the process. When choosing drain fittings, you first need to pay attention to the width of the outlet pipe. If it is wide enough, you can do without a cuff, and simply fill the gap with silicone or silicone-based sealant. You can level the bathtub in two ways: diagonally and along the sides.

In the first case, you need to put the rule on opposite corners, and set the level on top. After the level shows a satisfactory result, it is necessary to shift the rule to other angles and repeat twisting the legs. When finished, repeat the procedure again.

In the second case, the level is placed on the side of the bathtub, the legs of one side are adjusted, then we move to the other. Alignment along the sides is carried out several times, since the side opposite to the one being measured may get lost. The method of leveling along the sides is more labor-intensive, especially in cases where the floor has a number of irregularities.

Preparing the sewer

First you need to make sure that the sewer pipe pipe and the pipe itself are completely dry. This will allow you to achieve maximum sealing when connecting. It is best to shut off the water supply to the entire residence, and, if possible, completely stop the water supply to the riser. The main thing is not to forget to warn your neighbors that there will be no water for several hours during the flight. Next, make sure that there is no moisture not only from the inside, but also from the outside of the pipe. To do this, you can use a regular cosmetic hair dryer.

After workplace prepared, it's time to move on to the actual installation. Let's start with a bathtub made of acrylic.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub

Each product comes with special guides onto which the legs are later attached. They are installed across the bathtub. In the lodgements ( correct name guides) the legs are screwed in.

The guides themselves are attached to the bathtub using special screws, which can also be found in the kit. To prevent the self-tapping screws from damaging the integrity of the shell, you need to pre-drill holes for them. You must use a drill with a stop, and the depth of the hole should not exceed 3/4 of the length of the screw.

After the guides are installed, you need to turn the bathtub on its side and connect the drain fittings. Before installing it, all gaskets that will be used must be treated with silicone. Remember that the drain gasket is installed only from the outside! Otherwise, get ready to pay your neighbors to repair the ceiling.

All threaded connections should not be tightly tightened, as there is a possibility of damage to the structure during installation.

During installation, place the bathtub close to all walls, at the same time make sure that the bathtub outlet is connected to the sewer pipe. Next, level the bathtub using a rule (level) and seal the connection to the sewer with sealant.

While the sealant hardens, it is necessary to tighten all screw connections that were in a semi-loose state using a fork wrench.

When the sealant has completely hardened, check all joints for the possibility of leaks and if none are found, you can treat the gaps between the bathtub and the walls with the same sealant.

Installation of a steel bath

A steel bathtub is installed similarly to an acrylic one. The only difference is the way the legs are attached. They are attached using bolts, studs or wedges. The bolts must be tightened gradually and one at a time. You should not immediately be zealous and tighten them to the limit, as in the future there may be a need for additional, fine adjustments.

To make the bathtub make a less loud sound when filling, you can place a piece of automobile rubber between the leg mount and the surface of the bathtub.

Subtleties of installing a cast iron bathtub

Let us remind you that cast iron products have incredible weight and a bathtub made from this material is no exception. It is advisable to carry out all connection and adjustment work in the bathroom. Moving a product from room to room is fraught with unforeseen consequences in the form of damage to doorways and other interior elements.

Products with decorative legs deserve special attention. This type is selected specifically for the interior and the use of pads as the level is adjusted will negate the entire aesthetic component. Decorative legs should be filed at the base, but this is a job for masters of their craft.

To install a drain, unlike previous types, it is advisable not to turn a cast iron bathtub on its side. It will be enough to lift the front part so that it appears extra space, and fix it in this state with the help of bars.

All work must be carried out very carefully and not tug the bathtub again.

Installing a plastic bathtub

We didn't highlight this type V separate category, since plastic bathtubs are a cheaper substitute for acrylic products, and the installation process is almost identical. The only difference is the need to create an additional pillow that will relieve the load from the bottom of the product. The pillow can be made either from the same larch or from cement. Plastic baths also require special care and careful operation. Otherwise, the need to replace the product will appear in 5-7 years. These products do not tolerate aggressive detergents.

Bathroom screen

There are a wide variety of bathroom screens. And you don’t have to limit yourself to purchasing finished product, and do everything with your own hands. This approach may not be the most correct, but it will definitely be the most economical.

Installing a bathtub without the help of specialists is a rather difficult task, which not everyone can do. Here you need to have not only the ability to work with various instruments, but also know all the intricacies of the process. Special care should also be taken when working with cast iron products– they are heavy and in the process of carrying you can easily damage your limbs.

Video lesson: Installing a bathtub. Important points

If you doubt your abilities, invite the help of specialists who will carry out all the work according to the standards and your desires. In addition, companies or firms involved in installation are required to provide guarantees for the work performed, as well as for Additional materials, which were purchased directly through them.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is quite a difficult task. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; It's easy to chip the enamel, but... You need to move steel and plastic bathtubs very carefully: the coating may crack due to deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast iron bathtub, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or door itself. In addition, the installation of the bathtub has to be done in a cramped space. Therefore the first condition for self-installation baths are a strong, skillful assistant. You can’t cope alone or with a stupid, weak assistant.

The second point is the installation of bath plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you cannot be white-handed. You must have a developed tactile sense; Simply put, your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. A tool accidentally dropped into the bathtub bowl can cause irreparable damage. And if the bathtub is acrylic, then you will have to drill blind holes in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If you plan to replace the bathtub rather than move the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

1. Steel (“tin”) cheap and easy to work with. A strong man with plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is poured in/out, which is not good for the enamel. Steel bath can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
2. Cast iron– eternal, with proper treatment, but expensive. It is very difficult to work with her: she is heavy. And it’s not just a matter of weight: it’s almost impossible to place a cast-iron bathtub on an already existing one without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but when moving the bathtub it is again easy to damage it. In addition, if the bathtub has decorative open legs, then leveling it is a tedious job, and the adjustable legs easily break from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and falls in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) baths last up to 15-20 years. It is not cheap, but cheaper than cast iron. You need two people to work with it, but without tearing, like with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coating is easier to renew than enamel. We can say that this is an ideal option, with the exception of: aggressive detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In essence, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At current prices for hot water washing in the bathtub is a luxury, and it is not expected to become cheaper. In this regard, heat loss in the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

• Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor heat conductor. If the temperature on the boiler is set to 60 degrees, then to fill an ordinary reclining acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is sufficient.
• Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively transfers heat into the space, in the form infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or for a 50-liter boiler you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at this temperature, the expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out” in literally a month or two.
• Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And it takes a long time to warm up, and gives off heat well: it’s metal, after all. You need a boiler with a capacity of at least 100 liters, and in terms of money - washing in a cast iron bathtub will cost 1.5 times more than in a steel bathtub, and 2.5 times more expensive than in an acrylic one.

Preparing the bathroom

Walls

If the installation of a new bathtub is timed to coincide with the renovation of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone wall cladding “for later”, after installing the bathtub. Why? So, we placed the bathtub close to a bare wall and waterproofed the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bathtub. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tiles) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold developing.

Note: V In this case, a row of tiles that is incomplete in height will be visible. For the sake of preservation decorative qualities It is better to place it in the middle of the wall height - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made from tiles of a different color, it may turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If the bathtub will only be replaced, then the new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the visible gap aesthetically pleasing: although facing tiles does not fade; dirt has ingrained into its previously hidden part and cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bathtub must be level and durable; especially for cast iron, which weighs a lot even when empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the floor tiles are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on a “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, the tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not worry about its strength at all, you can lay two forty boards (logs) made of larch on the floor (only teak is suitable from this, from other wood, but it is not widely sold). The boards are laid lengthwise so that the legs of the bathtub rest on them. The wood must be and then oiled or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A plank pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bathtub, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and/or cladding, the boards need to be allowed to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and leave it there for at least two days, or better yet, a week.

Bath height

The installation height of the bathtub is important not only for its connection with the wall cladding and convenience plumbing work. A higher raised bathtub will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is that any infection from the sewer will seep through it in reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will become more intense. How long it takes for her to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bathtub by only 4-5 cm with correctly selected drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain mesh and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump from there, knows what it means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made of two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by its greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene fittings are more expensive, but have important advantages before vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; Accordingly, the likelihood of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
3. The surface microstructure of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not lumpy, but stream-like. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness hydraulic resistance propylene pipes one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross-section will pass through more water, and there is less risk of flooding your neighbors.

Typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take a “Chinese” drain that is assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust, even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will grab the bolt so much that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: if something happens, you will have to break it and install a new one. There is no point in replacing the bolt with a brass or bronze one: the material will turn green and set in the same way. And sharpening a stainless steel bolt to order is also pointless: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt made of another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, and electrocorrosion will immediately occur with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a mesh in the form of a cross of two crossbars. This mesh is a very good hair catcher, and pulling it out is difficult and disgusting. A grid of circular round holes better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slits. In a bathtub with such a drain, you can manually wash carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not become clogged, and the mesh will remain clean.

Cork chain

The usual chain of cork soon breaks, and in any case becomes covered with a coating of salts, which does not add any attractiveness to the bath. There are drain devices with a remote-controlled plug, but they are expensive and prone to failure. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

Overflow pipe

Don't take the hard one - it's a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means there is less chance of overflowing.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bathtub you will need some special tools:

• Rule. This is a flat, rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bathtub. Needed to level the bathtub. Even an amateur does alignment along the diagonals in two steps, but to align along the sides it takes 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain is cracked after that.
• Fork wrench for tightening release parts. You won’t be able to grab it with an adjustable pliers, but using pliers is extremely inconvenient and can cause damage.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bathtub when assembling it. Tapping with a metal hammer, due to resonance, can cause the formation of microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not provide the required force and accuracy of impact.

Note: You can adapt a stamping hammer like a rubber hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose onto its spherical butt.

The materials you will need are silicone sealant (MS-based sealants are expensive and do not have significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bathtub is acrylic. A drill limiter is made from electrical tape. PVC electrical tape slides off easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose stretched tightly over the drill.



On leveling and connecting the outlet to the sewer system

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, and not lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bathtub, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid connection is used to connect the bathtub outlet pipe to the sewerage system rubber cuff, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if it is already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final connection with the sewer must be done after leveling, and the cuff must be soft, made of microfoam or neoprene, so that the drain outlet pipe can become inclined. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; design service life is 100 years. In the USSR it was known as “military sealant”.

But the easiest option is to purchase a drain fitting with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. You can’t blow it out with polyurethane foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

1. The rule is to lay the bath diagonally, place a level on it and achieve horizontality by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Transfer the rule to another diagonal and repeat the procedure.
3. Check to see if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bathtub and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side is lost, and they have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: You need to achieve horizontality. The slope of the bottom of the bathtub bowl towards the drain is already provided.

Sewerage preparation

The sewer pipe connection and the inside of the pipe itself must be dry to ensure reliable sealing. Firstly, for this purpose, when installing a bathtub, there should under no circumstances be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be thoroughly dried from the inside. If there is only a small amount of plaque, you don’t have to clean it off, but you need to dry it thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, with the wife’s hairdryer, which may not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bathtub, try to take your family somewhere. With the possible exception of an adult son - an assistant.

Example diagram of bathtub installation:



Installation of an acrylic bathtub

To install an acrylic bathtub, you will first have to attach complete guides (cradles) for the legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom using special complete self-tapping screws.

Marking of fastenings of the cradle for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about this, it means that the positions of the cradle are standard: the front one is 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge along the length drain hole; rear - at the place where the bowl transitions to the rear curve.

The holders are placed perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bathtub, the drilling locations are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. The drilling depth is 3/4 of the length of the screw body.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and the drain fittings are installed. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
• The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It needs to be placed with the tip of the wedge against the edge of the hose so that when tightened it will press into the spacer.
• Threaded connections are not tightened tightly.

The bathtub is turned upside down again and the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with measurements so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the drain side.

Then the bathtub is carefully placed in place, pushed close to the walls. An experienced person will ensure that the bathtub outlet enters the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled and the outlet is sealed. While the sealant has not hardened, use a fork wrench to tighten the joints tightly: whoever is larger sits in the bathtub and holds it, and whoever has smaller hands bends, reaches and twists: all turnkey spaces are on the outside. After the sealant has hardened (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately) check for leaks.

If it does not leak, or has been eliminated, the same silicone is used to seal the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls. Spills and spills of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. All that remains is to install the screen, but more on that later.

Steel bath

Installation steel bath made in the same way as acrylic, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into standard fasteners and fixed with bolts and nuts on threaded rods or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them rubber mallet. The legs should sit in place like a glove.

There is also a nuance here: if the play in fastening the legs allows, you need to place pieces of rubber from a car inner tube under their surfaces in contact with the bathtub bowl. Then the bathtub will ring less when filling with water.



Cast iron bath

Installation cast iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and moving it is risky for the environment. Therefore, if the size of the bathroom allows, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there and equipped with a drain and feet. If the bathtub has decorative legs, then its leveling is also done in a “naked” form on site, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a labor-intensive and extremely responsible operation. Pads under the legs ruin the aesthetics, and filing the legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And every time such a bathtub needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then put back on its legs and dragged in. Therefore, for a bathtub with decorative legs, the bathroom floor needs to be highly durable.

It is also inconvenient and risky to place a cast-iron bathtub on its side once again to install the drain. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two durable boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

Plastic bath

There are cheap substitutes on sale acrylic bathtubs. When installing this plastic bath, in addition to treating it with special care, you need to place several larch blocks under the bottom, treated in the same way as the joists under the legs. With such a pillow, absolutely budget bath It may well last for ten years.



Screen

The screen for the bathtub can be either complete or complete. There are many descriptions of homemade screens, and their designs are surprising for such simple device variety. There is only one recommendation: do not bring the screen 5-6 cm to the floor. The trash under the bathtub will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damage to the screen by a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub side. In this case, sealing the outlet inlet into the sewer and the cracks between the bathtub and the wall is done last. Installation of the screen under the bathtub is carried out with the bathtub already leveled and standing in place, the outlet pipe of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen fits into the groove or is caught by the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is blank, then you need to look for a drain fitting with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.
2. For a bathtub with a complete screen, a layer of joists under the legs is not applicable, unless you somehow raise the screen. And such a bathtub needs to be aligned not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best option is not a complete or homemade one, but a purchased bath screen. These screens are equipped with adjustable legs. They can be adapted even to a standing bathtub: screw the legs all the way, push them in, and unscrew them until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub side.

Summary

Installing a bathtub yourself, especially a cast iron one, is hard and complex work. For a beginner, we can recommend installing only an acrylic or steel bathtub yourself.

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Repair is a difficult and tedious undertaking that cannot be survived without moral and financial losses. It would seem that there is something special here: I bought materials, invited a construction team and rested. Yes, that was not the case! In the process of “reworking” with the participation of people from outside, some questions often arise: sometimes they didn’t finish it, sometimes they “cheated” there, and as a result - frayed nerves, costs and other troubles.

But there are some things we can do on our own. For example, install a shower or bath. So let's stock up the right tool, let’s refresh some knowledge and skills in our heads, and boldly “roll up our sleeves.” And in order to achieve optimal results, we listen to the following tips and recommendations.

Preparing for work

Surely, you didn’t really rack your brains about how to install a bathtub correctly, believing that there was nothing special in this matter: you bought it, brought it, installed it. In principle, it is logical. But, if you want it to serve you for a long time without problems or leaks, it’s worth learning a little more about the main points of this procedure.

Like any other construction process, this work begins with a preparation stage, including:

• Purchasing the necessary tools and components.
• Dismantling the old bathtub (in case of a major renovation).

In this case, the previous structure should be disassembled by unscrewing the siphon, which must be disconnected from the pipe leading to the sewer. To prevent the spread of unpleasant odor, it is better to prepare it in advance. plastic bag, where you can place all the components of this plumbing fixture, after which it needs to be tied tightly. Opened sewer passage cover using a regular rag.

Important note: if you have difficulty unscrewing the central screw of the siphon (perhaps it has simply become covered with rust and “stuck” to the thread if the bath has been in use for a long time), a hammer, chisel or large screwdriver will help you resolve this dilemma. Feel free to knock the fastener out of the tin (or plastic) until it falls down. After all, in the end, its place will still be replaced by a new one.

After completing this manipulation, you will have to sweat a lot again. This time in order to move old bath from her previous place. If at the same time she just stands on her legs, this will not be difficult at all. It’s another matter if it is attached to the base using cement mortar. Well, then again we arm ourselves with a chisel or another tool convenient for you, and cut out the places where the legs come into contact with the floor surface. Then we slowly pull out the bathtub. Do not try to “crank out” this part of the work alone, especially if we are talking about a heavy and massive cast iron bathtub. For this you need an assistant.

But that's not all! Most likely, before installing a bathtub, you had no idea how much work included the most difficult and not very pleasant preparatory stage.

The next “trouble” that awaits you during this period of work is the discrepancy between the width of the bathtub and the size of the doorway of the room in which it is located. We suggest a simple and reliable way out of this situation: you just need to rid it of its legs. Choose the method of removing them depending on the design features. In the worst case scenario, you will have to take a sledgehammer and simply knock them off, after which your old bathtub can leave its old place, giving way to a new one.

“Subtleties” of installing a cast iron bathtub

Despite the emergence of more modern, high-tech materials, cast iron bathtubs still remain in favor due to their excellent consumer qualities, reliability and durability. However, today it is no longer the “clumsy and angular” design that our mothers and grandmothers used. Modern cast iron baths have the following characteristics:

• May have different colors and functions, including hydromassage, etc.:
• They have a durable, impact-resistant coating with an anti-slip effect;
• They weigh much less than their “predecessors”;
• Can be equipped with a wide variety of additional options: handles, soft headrests, etc.

Despite the fact that installing a cast iron bathtub is a rather complicated process that will take a decent amount of time, you can do it yourself. Let's consider the main stages:

1. The first thing you need to do is prepare the work surface, ridding it of residues construction waste and dirt. If necessary, we level the floor; the bathtub should be installed perfectly flat surface.

2. We install the siphon. At the same time, do not forget about attaching silicone gaskets, which should be placed in its upper and lower parts. Using these devices will help prevent leaks. Then you will need to connect other plumbing fixtures to them: overflow and siphon trap.

3. We proceed to assembling the supports (retaining structure), on which the bath will be located. To do this, first fasten two of them, choosing the fastening method depending on the individual characteristics designs.

• For example, when using wedges, the process must consist of several stages during which you need to move them from the center of the support to the edge, tapping them on all sides to ensure even installation.
• If fastening is done using tightening bolts, tapping is not necessary.

When attaching supports, carefully inspect the fastening points in order to identify possible defects and errors: burrs, sagging, etc. If they are found, the defects can be corrected using an angular grinder.

Before fastening the bolts, we install adjusting screws equipped with locking nuts, which should be under the supports.

When making fastenings, you need to ensure that the fixation is sufficient, but at the same time, the bolts or wedges are not “pinched”, as this can damage them.

4. Don’t forget to also install the bathtub correctly against the wall, pushing it all the way, adjusting it in width and height, and carefully securing it. In this case, the fastening points must be sealed with silicone sealant.

There are also special compounds, treatment with which will prevent the appearance of fungus and mold, so they can also be used on at this stage. Until the fixing mixture has completely hardened, it is necessary to install a plastic side or plinth.

5. That's it, now you can connect the sewer pipe with the siphon outlet.

Another tip for those who are interested in the question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands:

If the legs of the bathroom are quite “flimsy” and weak, they can be replaced with a brick base, which must first be built on the floor of the bathroom, laying the brick in two rows.

If you fail to achieve good stability, the seam between the wall and the bathtub will crack and fall apart due to the fact that the structure will “walk” freely. As a result, you will have to constantly correct and lubricate this place. In turn, the brick base will provide a more reliable fixation. Be sure to take this point into account if you want to figure it out and understand how to properly install a cast iron bathtub.

What you need to know when installing an acrylic bathtub

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs have one undeniable advantage. Thanks to his light weight, “managing” them is much easier and more convenient. Moreover, the installation process is almost identical to the installation of cast iron bathtubs.

The only difference that needs to be taken into account before properly installing an acrylic bathtub is the method of attaching the supports. IN in this case the base is not attached to special bolts that perform an adjustment function, but is fixed directly to the bottom of the bathtub using screws.

Important: if the purchased bathtub does not have holes specially prepared for this, you will have to make them yourself. However, produce this work you should be very careful and careful, since acrylic is very easy to drill, so we recommend using drills with stops for this.

It is also worth noting that acrylic bathtubs require additional insulation- this is necessary so that the water in it cools more slowly and there is less noise when filling the bath. This work is not difficult to do; it will require approximately 4 cans of polyurethane foam, which must be applied to the bottom of the bathtub and to all four sides of it.

Keep in mind: before applying polyurethane foam to the surface of the bathtub, it must be moistened with water. The liquid will allow the foam to adhere well to the acrylic - the foam will harden faster, without sliding even from a vertical plane.

As you can see, there is nothing special about installing a bathroom and you don’t need to have any specific skills to do it. The main thing: a serious, responsible approach and accuracy. And in order to get the job done efficiently and quickly, we recommend a training video in which these points are explained in more detail.

Installing a bathtub is a responsible task, because this piece of plumbing requires a very large load. An incorrectly installed and poorly secured bathtub can leak, and in worst cases, tip over and injure its owners. Therefore, before installation, read our article, from which you will learn about methods of attaching a bathtub and correct order production of work.

Features of the material

• Cast iron bathtubs are durable and retain heat for a long time, but they are heavy, so they need to be installed on a stable base.
• The steel bathtub can be mounted on a podium. To do this, the walls are assembled from brick, and inside the bathtub will stand firmly and not wobble. The main disadvantage of this material is the noise when filling with water.

To reduce noise when filling the bathtub, treat the outside with putty or polyurethane foam. This will reduce the sound of water and help keep the heat inside longer.

Soundproofing a steel bathtub using polyurethane foam.
• Bathtubs made of acrylic retain heat well and do not slip, and also have a pleasant appearance. However, they are inferior in strength to their competitors. Due to the flexible bottom, a large person can break it with their weight. Therefore, it is necessary to make a special metal mold to avoid bending.
• In addition, special frame legs, which are shown in the photo below, can be used to attach steel and acrylic bathtubs.

Wooden frame for installing a bathtub.

Regardless of the type, there are basic principles for installing a bathtub:




Installation of various baths

As we mentioned earlier, the type of fastening depends on the chosen bathtub.




In general, we can distinguish the following steps on how to install a bathtub to the wall:

1. the bathtub is laid on its side and a drain pipe is mounted to it;
2. the floor siphon is connected to pipes, most often these are flexible plastic pipes;
3. legs are attached to the bathtub, and it is installed so that the siphon pipes can be connected to the sewer;
4. check the tightness of the connected sewage system;
5. if necessary, build a frame from plasterboard, a podium from foam blocks and install spacers.

How to seal a large gap in a wall

Usually, after installing a bathtub, there may be a large distance between the end and the wall. This will not allow the bath to be securely fixed on three sides, and it will move around. In this case, you can turn a disadvantage into an advantage and create a framework. As a result, you will have a shelf between the bathtub and the wall on which you can place shampoos, powder and other accessories.

There are several ways to seal a large gap:

• , then sheathe it moisture-resistant plasterboard. Don't forget to make a hatch for access to the plumbing.
• Attach a block to the wall and make a shelf. One side of it will be supported on a block, the other on a bathtub or frame.
• If you don't have a hammer drill, another solution is to cut a strip of extruded polystyrene or polystyrene foam and insert it tightly into the slot. This is necessary so that the solution does not fall when sealing. Make a layer of plaster on top and cover all the cracks. You can also use polyurethane foam for this. Thus, in literally 15 minutes you will seal a large gap and get rid of rattling and knocking on the walls. If you already have tiles laid, seal them masking tape so as not to stain the surface.

When creating a shelf near the bathtub, make it sloping so that water does not accumulate there, but flows down. In addition, it is important to install the bathtub itself with a slope towards the drain so that the water does not stagnate.

Installation on a podium

To install the bath on a podium made of bricks or foam blocks, an elevated platform is created. The bathtub is placed on the podium, while the legs remain on the floor. Before laying, the podium, walls and bottom are generously coated with polyurethane foam.

Instead of a brick podium, you can fill plastic bottles with water, close them tightly, and place them on the floor. They will serve as a space filler when you need to create a “thick pillow”. Treat them liberally with foam and place the “belly” of the bath on them. This method is much cheaper and faster than a brick podium.

Homemade podium from polyurethane foam and bottles.

Another option is to create a wall that will support the side and hide internal communications. This method is especially suitable if you have adhesive legs, as they will not be able to reliably support the weight of the water and your body.

On top of the wall, or choose a different finish.

If you have any questions, watch the video instructions on installing and attaching the bathtub to the podium:

After installing and securing the bathtub, be sure to ensure that the seal is secure so as not to accidentally flood your neighbors.