Metal tiles are superior to other types in many ways roofing such as slate, galvanized sheet, bitumen shingles and so on. Laying the material is usually trusted to specialists, but if you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself.
TO strengths metal tiles include:
The only disadvantages include increased noise during precipitation, but this can be solved by installing a layer of glass wool.
Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with calculations.
Stage 1. Carrying out calculations
Let's make one thing clear first important point. Visually, a roof covered with this material consists of rows and waves (the first run across the slope). The distance between the rows is called the pitch. If a sheet of tile has a pitch of 35 cm and six waves, then it is called a module. The modern building materials market offers sheets for 1, 3, 6 and 10 modules.
Important! If desired, you can order tiles by custom sizes, but it will cost much more. It should be remembered that the length of the sheet should not exceed 7 m and be less than 45 cm.
When calculating and laying out, the fact that joints and waves must form a solid coating along the entire length of the slope is taken into account. Having decided on the number of modules, the amount of material is calculated based on the roof area.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, the kit also includes:
- steel strips 2 m long;
- steel sheets 200x125 cm, having the same color as the tiles.
Typically, the strips are intended for roofs made with a slope of 30ᵒ, although if desired, you can adjust them to 11-70ᵒ.
Important! Minimum slope, at which installation of tiles is allowed, is 11ᵒ.
Stage 2. Preparing everything you need
To install tiles, you need the following equipment:
- metal scissors;
- ladder;
- electric drill;
- long rail;
- screwdriver;
- mounting tape;
- meter;
- hammer;
- marker;
- funds personal protection(mittens, plastic glasses).
You will also need the following consumables:
- waterproofing;
- tiles;
- roofing strips;
- aero roller;
- strips for ends and ridge;
- decorative overlays;
- self-tapping screws, sealing washers and for them;
- boards 2.5x10 cm;
- guide board.
Stage 3. Foundation
As noted earlier, metal tiles weigh little, so they do not need a reinforced base - you will need a regular lathing made of wooden slats. The pitch of the sheathing should be calculated according to the dimensions of the tiles, so as not to drive the screws into the void during installation.
Important! When calculating the pitch, the location of the windows is also taken into account - it is not advisable to place rafters above them.
Stage 4. Thermal insulation
Thermal insulation is necessary not only to prevent heat loss, but also to protect against the noise of rain. First, the rafters are covered with a vapor barrier material (for example, Izospan or Yutafol). Next, an insulating layer (no more than 25 cm thick) is laid, covered with an antioxidant film and attached to the rafters with wooden blocks.
Important! The material between the bars should sag slightly (about 2 cm) so that the condensate flows only into the drain.
Stage 5. Installation of tiles. Basic rules
- Installation can be done in one of two ways. If the stacking of sheets begins on the right, then each new one is superimposed on the previous one. If it’s the other way around, then the previous sheets are superimposed.
- In order to ensure correct installation, four sheets of tiles, located overlapping relative to each other, are first grabbed, aligned, and only then finally connected with one self-tapping screw.
- Self-tapping screws must be of high quality, because the service life of the roofing largely depends on them. These must be galvanized screws with sealing heads made of propylene rubber, hermetically filling the hole when tightened.
- A thickening appears at the junction of the four sheets. It needs to be removed, for which part of the corner is cut off or the capillary ditch located under the stamping line is straightened.
Stage 6. Individual elements
Step 1. The end strips are fixed with an overlap (about 2 cm). The size of the wave is adjusted to the width of the slope, otherwise the crest may fit on the pediment.
Step 2. A roofing strip is added, then an additional sealant is placed between it and the sheet of material.
Step 3. When arranging pipes or windows that are located below the ridge, sheets with one module are taken - two pieces for each structural element.
Step 4. For sloping slopes, an aeroroller is installed between the material and the ridge strip, which will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge.
Step 5. The ridge is fixed on the strips located at the ends of the structure. This must be done in such a way that it protrudes by 2-3 cm. In the case of a flat ridge, all elements are attached with an overlap, and if it is semicircular, then only according to the profile lines.
Important! If the roof slope exceeds 45ᵒ, then compatibility should be calculated in advance specific model ridge strip with this angle. If this is not done, then the consequences can be the most dire, even complete replacement roofing covering.
It is also worth noting that, if necessary, the ridge strips can be bent and unbent so that they follow the angle of the roof.
Stage 7. Arrangement of the valley
An additional board is attached to each valley. Installation in in this case starts from the bottom and overlaps 25-30 cm. Below the level of the cornice, the bottom strip is cut, and flanging is made along it. A sealant is placed under each trim and ridge.
There is a gap between the axle and the sheets (at least 8-10 cm). Screws are screwed into the cut sheets one and a half centimeters from the stamping line. However, when fixing, the fasteners are made 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If everything was done correctly, then upon completion of the work the sheet at the fastening point will be in contact with the board where the valley is located.
Important! If mistakes were made, the fastening will be located in other places and, as a result, gaps will form on the surface through which the roof will leak.
To cover the cut sheets, decorative overlays are used, when installing which you need to remember some important points:
Often the beginning and end of the valleys are on the roof slope. Let's take, for example, editing dormer window. Here a separate board is placed under the valley. For the window itself, a cutout is made in the sheet, and sealing material is laid along the walls. In this case, the eaves overhang is covered with a plank.
Then the valley strips, previously cut at the edges, are fixed. The released part should adhere extremely tightly to the tile sheet.
Video - Laying metal tiles
Slopes in the form of a trapezoid or triangle
If the roof slopes are trapezoidal or triangular shape, then it is necessary to install additional bars.
Step 1. The bars are attached on both sides of the “ridge” along the fold line of the roof.
Step 2. The cornice board is installed and the sheathing is assembled.
Step 3. The cornice system is being constructed.
Step 4. The tiles are laid. This is done along the line of one of the edges or the axis. The first sheet is aligned with the cornice strip.
Important! It is unacceptable that the distance between the cut corner sheets installed near the “ridge” be more than 10 cm.
Step 5. To install the ridge assemblies, perform the following steps. The ridge strips are aligned with the angle of the “ridge”. If a straight ridge is used, then it is cut according to the corners, and if it is semicircular in shape, then the installation of an additional plug (preferably plastic) will be required.
Step 6. The ridge strip lies strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is quite simple to do if the angles of the slopes are the same, but if they are different, then it is correspondingly difficult. To control the junction of the slopes, bright-colored mounting tape is used.
After the sealant, a ridge is installed, made to match the color and structure similar to metal tiles
Features of material care
As already mentioned, metal tiles are covered with a polymer layer that protects against corrosion. But constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and dust sooner or later causes the destruction of the protective layer. That's why metal roofing should be cleaned regularly.
- Dirt and dry leaves are washed off with a damp fluffy brush.
- To remove more complex pollution You can use special cleaning products for polymer surfaces.
- Do not use aggressive chemicals– they can destroy the protective layer.
- Gutters are cleaned with a stream of water under pressure. The jet must be directed from the ridge to the eaves.
- To clear the roof of snow, you can use only those tools that, in principle, are unable to damage the coating.
If all these rules are followed, metal tiles will last about 50 years.
Installing metal tiles is a responsible task, and if you do not have experience in such work, then you should first carefully read the installation instructions before you start purchasing the metal tiles themselves, fasteners for them and all additional elements used during installation.
Only when proper preparation and installation, your roof will last a long time and will not cause any trouble.
First, make sure that the slope of the roof on which the metal tiles will be installed is at least 14 degrees, otherwise the snow load may simply push through it.
Cold or warm roof
Before starting work on the roof, you should decide what type of roof it will be in your home. warm or cold. The main difference is whether you will have a warm second floor or just cold attic. In the case of a warm roof, the thermal insulation is laid inside the rafters under the metal tiles; in the case of a cold roof, it is laid along the upper floor of the house - in the floor of the second floor.
The most difficult thing, of course, is the construction warm system– we will consider it.
Rafter system and hydro-thermal insulation
For installation rafter system It is recommended to use timber measuring 50 by 150-200 mm, the so-called “floor” board. The distance between the mounted rafters should be in the range of 800-1000 mm. If you do warm roof, then select this distance to match the width of your thermal insulation material. Most often, this value is 600 mm.
After installing the rafter system, be sure to measure the diagonals of the slopes of the future roof. The difference in diagonals should not be more than 2 centimeters. All rafters must be in the same plane. If you find discrepancies in size or plane, you should eliminate the defects by stuffing additional elements or trimming the excess.
Now, in the rafter system, you should install the so-called “ roofing pie", which includes vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing. You need to understand that how you lay this “pie” will determine how your roof will serve you in the future.
This is what it looks like - in the diagram below. Order from top to bottom:
- Metal tiles;
- Lathing;
- Waterproofing;
- Insulation;
- Vapor barrier.
The first step is to fill the bottom of the rafters with vapor barrier material. Vapor barrier material prevents the penetration of vapors into the thickness of the insulation. It is more convenient to fasten it using mounting staplers. Rolls are rolled out vapor barrier material, horizontally starting from the cornice up to the ridge with an overlap of 15-20 cm. It is recommended to glue the joints of the material with a special adhesive tape for tightness.
Insulation mats are laid on top of the vapor barrier between the rafters. The insulation should not extend beyond the rafters in height, since the waterproofing material will sag on top, and it should not touch the insulation.
Next, a waterproofing material is laid, which serves to drain condensate into the gutter. It is also secured with staples from a construction stapler to the top of the rafters or directly with slats vertical sheathing with dimensions 25, 30 or 50 by 50 mm. There are two rules to remember:
- 1. The waterproofing material cannot be laid under tension; it should sag slightly between the rafters by 15-20 mm.
- 2. The waterproofing material should also not touch the insulation. The air gap must be at least 30 mm.
They roll it out in the same way as a vapor barrier - from below parallel to the cornice, each subsequent sheet comes with an overlap of 150-200 mm. The very first thing, also known as the bottom sheet of waterproofing, should be placed so that its lower edge can then be placed on the eaves strip so that the resulting condensate flows freely into the gutter. The last canvas is not thrown over the ridge, but starts from the other side from the bottom.
Along the entire length of the ridge, approximately 200 mm wide, there should be a gap between the waterproofing on both sides of the roof for air to escape outside.
Lathing for installation of metal tiles
The next stage is the production of vertical and horizontal sheathing on which the metal tile sheets will be installed. Vertical slats (counter slats) are installed on top of the waterproofing along the entire length of the rafters from bottom to top. It is recommended to stick a special sealing tape under the counter slats before installation; this tape will prevent the counter slats from getting wet in the future from moisture formed on the waterproofing. Next, the boards of the sheathing itself are placed horizontally on them with a certain gap. The size of the gap is determined by the brand and type of metal tile - usually the wave width is 350 mm. To control the correct size of the gap between the boards, use special tool- template for sheathing.
The recommended dimensions of lathing boards for installing metal tiles are 25 or 35 by 100 mm. Horizontal sheathing should begin from the eaves. The first board should be 15 mm higher in height than the rest. For example, if 25 by 100 mm boards are used for the main sheathing, then the first “eaves” board should be 40 mm thick. The difference of 15 mm is exactly the height of the metal tile step. This step should be parallel to the eaves, and the projection beyond the eaves should be such that water flowing from the roof falls into the middle of the gutter.
The second sheathing board is installed at a distance of 300 mm, the countdown goes from the center of the first cornice board to the center of the second. The next ones go all the way to the ridge with a step of 350 mm between the centers of the boards.
At the ridge, along each roof slope, an additional board is laid end-to-end.
The sheathing is completed, you can begin installing metal tiles and accessories.
Installation of brackets for gutters
Before you begin installing metal tile sheets, you must first install the brackets for the gutter and the eaves strip.
Installation begins by attaching the outer gutter brackets. This is done so that you can install correct angle tilt to drain water in the desired direction.
We fasten the first bracket-holder with self-tapping screws to the cornice board and bend it down.
Using a water level, set a mark for the bracket at the lower end of the gutter. The slope should be from 2 to 5 mm for each linear meter. After this, we mount the lower holder according to the mark. Now we stretch the rope between the outer holders.
Using the rope as a guide, we install the remaining gutter holders. The distance between them should be 500-800 mm. The overhang of the drain from the last bracket must be at least 50 mm.
Next, the gutter adjusted to size is inserted into the holders and fixed with special petals on the holders.
When installing a drain, a cornice strip should be installed. It serves to protect the frontal board from harmful effects ultraviolet. We install the bar so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter. If one plank was not enough, then install the next one with an overlap of 40-50 mm and fasten the plank with self-tapping screws to the front and cornice boards at intervals of 300-400 mm.
After installation cornice strip glue the connecting piece on top of it duct tape (double sided tape) and glue the bottom edge onto it waterproofing material A.
Installation of metal tile sheets
It is more convenient to install metal tile sheets if they have a length equal to the length of the slope. In this case, there is no need to join the lower and top sheets. But this is acceptable if the length of the slope does not exceed 8 meters.
Installation of metal tile sheets should begin from the end edge of the roof slope. If you do it from right to left, then each next sheet placed in one wave on top of the previous one. If from left to right, then the edge (one wave) of each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one. The first sheet should be immediately aligned from below along the eaves and from the side along the end of the roof; to do this, it is secured with one screw at the ridge and leveled. The bottom edge of the sheet should protrude 50 mm from the cornice.
For fastening metal tiles are used special screws With rubber gasket. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the drainage groove under the wave. In the photo on the left, you can clearly see the place where the screw is screwed in. The order of installation of screws: through one wave and in a checkerboard pattern.
On square meter metal tiles require 6-8 screws. Along the ridge and cornice, the sheet should be fastened more often - through a wave. Sheet overlaps are attached along the crest of the wave under each transverse groove.
Ridge strips can be either flat top or rounded. The round bar is equipped with plugs - flat or conical. Before fastening the round ridge strip with screws or rivets, plugs are installed on both sides. A shaped seal is placed under the ridge strip, and the strip is screwed with ridge screws to the metal tile in increments of one wave.
The end strip should be attached to the roof end board. When installing the end board, remember that its height should be higher than the sheathing by the thickness of the metal tile. Fix the end strip at the top and side with roofing screws.
The overlap of the end strips during installation is 7-10 cm.
General rules for installing metal tiles
- Before installing the sheathing, everything wooden parts must be treated with fire protection.
- All fastening hardware must be coated with anti-corrosion coating.
- Cutting metal tiles should be done with special metal scissors or a jigsaw, or an abrasive (grinder) is strictly prohibited!
- The cut edges should be treated with a special polymer composition from aerosol can or tint with a brush, bare metal cannot be left!
Metal tiles are the most popular roofing material, successfully combining not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. Installation of metal roofing requires strict adherence to work technology.
When the installation of the metal tile roof is completed, remove with a soft brush construction waste and treat cuts and scratches with spray paint.
From workwear you will need:
- gloves;
- safety glasses;
- shoes with soft soles.
The tools you need to prepare are:
- screwdriver;
- construction stapler;
- hammer;
- tape measure with rag tape;
- jigsaw;
- a hacksaw with fine teeth;
- metal scissors, manual or electric nibblers;
- hand-held circular saw with carbide cutting elements.
Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is prohibited to use a grinder or any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!
Otherwise, you not only reduce the performance properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the metal tile manufacturer.
Taking measurements and calculating materials
From metal tiles
A metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50mm. The area of the waves without taking into account the upper and lower cuts is the useful area of the sheet. To calculate the number of horizontal rows of sheets required, it is necessary to divide the longest length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets per row can be calculated by dividing the total length of sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. Total length sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang of 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, and inclined ridges, the length should completely cover all slopes.
When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths the coefficient of expansion of the metal is less, and accordingly, the tension of the metal and the likelihood of the screws breaking off, the holes becoming loose and the metal being destroyed in these places are less. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.
To minimize waste, before purchasing metal tiles, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting diagram, taking into account the joints so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.
When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.
When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).
When calculating additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).
The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1m2 of metal tiles/1 linear meter of additional elements.
All calculations are rounded up.
Rules for the construction of a rafter system
Scheme of a hanging rafter system for a gable roof.
When planning the rafter system, take into account the features of the roof shape, wind and snow load. For a metal roof, experts recommend a distance between rafters of 600-900mm. Wood species with a moisture content of no more than 18-22% are suitable as materials for rafters. Everything in advance wooden elements truss structure, including the sheathing and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.
If it is planned to insulate the roof, to create additional inter-rafter ventilation, holes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm are drilled in the upper side part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm.
An old rafter structure can also form the basis for a metal roof.
Before the construction of the rafter system (including if it will be carried out on old roof) make sure the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes along the diagonals, check the horizontality of the cornice, ridge, and kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.
By building regulations- 14°. In snowy winters and rainy climates, the recommended tilt angle is 20-30°.
Installation of cornice and front boards, filing of cornice
Typically, roof installation requires the presence of either a cornice or a fascia board.
Options for tile roofing units.
The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is attached to special grooves cut into the rafters to avoid increasing the height of the rafter structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves for them on the eaves board. The installation of long hooks is carried out before installing the metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of metal tiles is completed. They are attached to front board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs reinforcing and protective functions.
To hem the cornice, a block is placed horizontally on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the front board. Then, between it and the front board, a sheathing is made in the form of transverse bars, onto which a lining material is then attached (corrugated sheeting, siding or soffits matching the color and material of the metal tile).
The basic rule when filing the cornice is to ensure free flow of air into the under-roof space by ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps along the roof is carried out in proportion to the areas of its individual elements.
Ventilation gaps are provided either between the sheathing panels (with the exception of soffits that have perforations), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the outer sheathing panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grid with small cells.
When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unobstructed through passage air flow.
The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while being vapor permeable. It is prohibited to use bitumen-based waterproofing material when installing a metal tile roof!
If it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated seal of the roof ridge due to ventilation gaps between the metal tiles and waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and insulation (double-circuit ventilation).
The waterproofing film is rolled out, without turning over, from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Overlapping areas must be insulated with a special adhesive tape. Please ensure that the overlaps occur on the wooden elements of the rafter structure and sheathing.
To prevent tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size due to the cold and the “play” of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the rafter legs. If you use anti-condensation or classic type waterproofing, you need double-circuit ventilation with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.
The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line and cover the end boards at the ends. Overlapping of roof elements such as stoves and ventilation pipes, must be at least 50mm with an additional layer laid around.
Installation of sheathing, installation of the lower valley
For a roof with an inter-rafter pitch of 900mm, boards with a section of 30x100mm are suitable for lathing, and with a pitch of 600mm - with a section of 25x100mm. If the distance between the rafters increases when installing the sheathing, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The height of the section of the lowest (initial) lathing strip should be more height the remaining planks to the height of the sheet wave, since the top of the metal tile step rests on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the cornice. The second lathing is attached with a pitch of 280mm, and all subsequent ones with a pitch of 350mm.
The place where the ridge strip is attached must be reinforced with two additional strips with a pitch of 50mm. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15mm greater than the thickness of the other sheathing boards to create a ventilation gap.
A continuous sheathing is made around the protruding roof elements. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the sheathing should also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the sheathing. Waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should extend onto the cornice board.
Installation of metal tile sheets
Installation diagram of metal tile sheets.
Lifting sheets of metal tiles onto the roof is carried out using ropes along two guide beams fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on metal tiles is allowed only in places where the wave deflects and only along the contour of the sheathing.
Each sheet of metal tile has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually they start laying from the side where the sheet does not need to be cut. Sheets can be mounted from left to right, or vice versa, overlapping in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.
Basic rules for laying metal tiles
- Docking “along the waves” to protect the roof from side winds. The screws at the joining point are screwed into the crest of the joining wave just below the stamping line. First of all, the longitudinal joints are tightened.
- Docking “in rows” with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
- Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the eaves line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the sheathing with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly placed on the slope should you screw in the remaining screws and finally secure the joined row.
Use roofing screws with EPDM gasket and protective layer to match the roof standard sizes 4.8x28mm. Screwing is carried out in the places where the sheet adheres to the sheathing into the base of the wave perpendicular to the sheathing until the gasket is slightly compressed; steel shavings are removed with a brush with soft bristles.
The sheets are attached to the initial lathing strip above the step through a wave, and to subsequent battens - through a longitudinal wave into every second transverse wave as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile at the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.
The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.
Installation of the end strip, upper valley and abutment strips
The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is covered with an end strip, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a pitch of 350 mm and an overlap of 100 mm.
The end strip is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turns out that the bottom ridge falls on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet upward.
When installing the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to prevent them from passing through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise waterproofing layer will be violated. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (junction strips) and the metal tile.
Installation of ridge strip and snow guard
The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unhindered evaporation of moisture. A sealant must be placed in places where there are pinhole ventilation holes. The ridge strip should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end on end strips with an edge protrusion of 20-30mm by attaching it to the top ridge and sheathing through the wave. To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, an aeroroller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.
To prevent an avalanche of snow from the roof, it is necessary. Even at the stage of installing the sheathing, provide supports in the intended places of fastening of this element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with a metal tile sheet fastened under the second transverse step.
Metal roofing also needs to be grounded to ensure the safety of the entire structure.
When the metal tiles are finished, remove any construction debris with a soft brush and treat any cuts or scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of roof operation, check the condition of the screws and, if necessary, tighten any loose ones.
Until recently, only one roofing material was used as a roof covering - slate. IN recent years its production began to improve, and all the material became sufficient high quality. However, this was not always the case. Sometimes, even with absolutely even slopes, it was necessary to sweat a lot in order to correctly lay the last sheets of slate. Modern metal rolling technologies make it possible to produce metal tiles of very high quality. Installing a roof from such material is not difficult. It is worth noting that you can install such a roof yourself, that is, without any special skills. You just need to read the basic installation instructions.
Structural composition of the roof
Composition of metal tile sheets.
From a structural point of view, the roof consists of many small and large parts:
- ridge strip;
- cone-type ridge cap;
- simple ridge cap;
- valley plank;
- end strip;
- cornice strip;
- pass-through elements;
- stairs;
- snow retainers;
- transition bridges and others.
Of course, depending on the specific roof design, one or another element may not be present.
Tools and materials
They are needed not to keep snow on the roof, but to cut large layers of it into smaller ones, thereby preventing an avalanche of snow from the roof of the house. Their installation is carried out according to the same principles as the installation of fences and bridges. If the length of the slopes is less than 8 m, you can install only one snow guard on the metal tile, which will be located 35 cm from the edge of the eaves. If the length of the slope is greater than the specified figure, then it is better to install two snow guards at some distance from each other. As a second option, you can use snow strips. They are designed specifically to hold snow. They are attached to the tiles with self-tapping screws. The cost of such strips is much cheaper than snow guards, and they are easier to install.
Conditions for transportation, storage of tiles and safety measures when working with them
Metal tiles are loaded using soft slings. Sheets can only be transported in a completely flattened form, that is, it is not allowed for the sheets to be bent. During transportation, all packs of metal tiles must be securely fastened. It is not permitted to place other heavy loads on them. Unloading should be mandatory be carried out only with gloves. It is better to carry sheets vertically so that they do not sag. Dragging sheets on asphalt or ground is prohibited. The tiles are stored in stacks in the original protective packaging.
To store it, it is better to choose a dry and level place. The sheets are folded onto beams, which should be laid approximately every half a meter. If they are supposed to be stored for 1 month or more, then it is better to arrange them with slats in several pieces. When working on the roof, you should follow some safety precautions so as not to harm your health or damage the roof. You can move along the mounted sheets, but you should step along the wave, and not on the crest. It is best to use sports shoes with non-slip soles. It is best to feed sheets onto the roof using two installed slats.
Metal tiles are becoming more and more popular every day. This is an excellent roofing material with an optimal ratio performance characteristics and cost. Metal tiles are suitable for finishing roofs of almost any complexity. At the same time, you can cope with the tasks of installing the material yourself.
Metal tiles are produced in the form of galvanized sheet material made from steel. The sheet consists of several layers that perform important protective or decorative functions.
- Zinc layer. It is the basis for applying subsequent layers. Additionally prevents the development of corrosion.
- Passivating layer. Prevents the accumulation of static electricity.
- Primer layer. Provides the highest quality adhesion of previous and subsequent layers of metal tile sheets.
- Polymer layer. Protects the material from adverse external influences and gives it the required appearance. The coating can be matte or glossy. There are many color variations available, which allows you to choose a roofing material that fully satisfies the owner’s needs.
Metal tiles have many advantages over other popular roofing materials, namely:
- light weight. On modern market There are many superior roofing materials available, but many are limited in their use due to heavy weight. Modern houses are increasingly being built from “light” building materials and they absolutely do not need the additional burden. Metal tiles weigh little, so they can be safely used even for roofing houses built on weak foundations;
- many color variations. It is unlikely that you will find another roofing material presented in such a variety color solutions, like metal tiles;
- good technical characteristics. Metal tiles are resistant to atmospheric and other adverse influences. Installation of sheets can be carried out at any time of the year;
- relatively affordable price. Metal tiles are noticeably more expensive than other coatings with similar parameters. Natural tiles are much more expensive, although their properties are practically no different from those of modern high-quality steel sheets.
Metal tiles look great on the roofs of almost any building. It is best suited for large and solid houses and cottages, but if desired, you can develop great project roofs even for a small country house.
Video - DIY metal tile installation instructions
Before you start arranging the sheathing and directly fastening the sheets of metal tiles, you must definitely think about reliable and high-quality waterproofing. Thanks to the moisture-proofing material, the possibility of condensation on the internal surfaces elements of the roofing system, which will contribute to a significant increase in their service life.
The most popular waterproofing option is polyethylene film. This affordable material flawlessly copes with all the tasks assigned to it.
Waterproofing should be laid on the rafters under the counterbeam. Individual pieces of film are laid with an overlap of about 15-17 cm. The sag of the film between the rafters can be no more than 1.5-2 cm. To secure the film, use galvanized nails or a construction stapler with metal staples. Cover the waterproofing joints with adhesive tape. It is desirable that it be metallized.
The technology for installing a metal roof requires mandatory installation of insulation. It is most convenient to use slabs mineral wool. The material is laid between the rafter legs. The construction stapler you already know is perfect for fixing the slabs.
Sheathing device
Metal tiles will be laid on load-bearing structure, known as sheathing. The system frame is assembled from wooden boards about 100 mm wide and 25-30 mm thick. All wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, the wood will rot in a fairly short time.
The lathing is attached in the interval between laying the waterproofing and installing the insulation. The task comes down to attaching wooden boards or bars to the rafters. Start fastening from the ridge roofing structure, gradually moving vertically down to the cornice. Fix the sheathing elements in horizontal position. Use nails of the appropriate length. As a rule, boards are mounted as a continuous sheet.
Laying roofing material
Laying metal tiles should begin from the bottom corner of the roof slope. It is best to start working from the lower left corner. In this case, each subsequent sheet will overlap the previous one. If you start installing the covering from the right corner, the next sheet of metal tiles will have to be placed under the already laid material. It is not advisable to do this, because... With such installation there is a high probability of damage to the roofing.
Laying of metal tiles should be carried out parallel to the cornice. Do not forget to leave an overhang behind the eaves of about 4 cm. There is a technology according to which sheets of metal tiles can be laid vertically. But in the absence of proper experience in carrying out roofing works It is better to abandon this method, opting for a more traditional and simple horizontal installation.
When laying, you will need to turn the corners slightly clockwise. This is done so that the right corners of the elements laid in one row are located in a single straight line.
To secure adjacent sheets, 1 self-tapping screw is used. This preliminary fastening is placed at the top of the sheet. After this, you need to align the elements of the system and perform their final fixation.
The most long sheets Lay metal tiles in the bottom row. With this option, installation is greatly facilitated, and the finished coating takes on a more solid and attractive appearance.
Approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws are required for 1 m2 of coating. You need to fasten the sheets in transverse waves, screwing in self-tapping screws in increments of 35 cm. You can also install self-tapping screws in longitudinal waves. With this method, it is necessary to fasten through the wave, placing self-tapping screws in the upper ridges.
An electric screwdriver is best suited for tightening screws. An electric drill will also work. The main thing is that it has the function of slow and smooth rotation of the cartridge. To achieve greater fastening accuracy, it is recommended to core the hole in advance.
The covering sheets must be secured in the lower crest of the wave, where the material is pressed against the sheathing. This will allow you to create the maximum reliable fastening and do not deform the material.
The bottom sheets of metal tiles must be attached to the first lathing in each wave, without gaps. This area will be subject to the most powerful wind loads, so the fastening must be as reliable as possible so that the sheets do not blow off at the first strong gust of wind.
Attach to other battens using minimum distance from below to the step. This is where the sheet material has the highest rigidity. In addition, with this arrangement the screws will be almost invisible.
In places where they overlap, sheets of metal tiles must be secured through the wave. If you wish, you can record each wave. This will ensure the highest quality fit of the upper sheet elements.
For fastening roofing material Galvanized self-tapping screws made from alloy steel are best suited. Stainless steel self-tapping screws with a seal have also proven themselves to be excellent. Such fasteners can have a wide variety of colors, which will allow you to create the optimal color combination self-tapping screws and base coating.
Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheathing elements. Deviations are not allowed. Sheets of metal tiles should be pulled as tightly as possible to the sheathing. Any distortion of the screws can lead to the appearance of through holes in the sheets. If the roof will be exposed to prolonged exposure to an acidic or alkaline environment, self-tapping screws with plastic caps should be used to fix the metal tiles.
Check the screws 3-4 months after completion of the roofing work. Under the influence of wind loads, fastenings usually weaken. Tighten any loose screws.
Thus, in self-installation There is nothing complicated about metal tiles. Follow the instructions, adhere to the recommendations received and everything will work out.
Happy work!
Video – DIY metal tile installation instructions