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Victoria Lopatina 02/9/2015 | 14669
Excessive quantity fertilizers impair plant development and harm our health. However, complete rejection of them affects the harvest and can lead to diseases. How to properly use organic and mineral fertilizers in the garden?
Healthy, environmentally friendly vegetables and fruits have become almost main problem modernity, since the ill-fated nitrates, nitrites and other toxins that have accumulated in the soil over several decades of completely unreasonable use of fertilizers continue to have a detrimental effect not only on plants, animals, birds, but also threaten human health.
Many vegetable growers, fairly frightened by this phenomenon, went to the other extreme - they stopped using any fertilizers, which had an extremely negative effect on the growth and yield of the most popular fertilizers. middle lane vegetable crops. Without timely fertilizing, plants germinate poorly, grow slowly, and bear almost no fruit. Due to the lack of organic and mineral substances, the resistance of crops to all kinds of diseases and insect pests is significantly reduced, and as a result we are left without our favorite cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, radishes...
To prevent this from happening, the plants must be fed regularly, strictly following the instructions for use, which can usually be found on the packages, and not exceeding the dosage of the drugs. We must not forget about the time-tested folk remedies: compost, manure, humus, wood ash.
Organic fertilizers in the garden
Before you start planting any seedlings, you should prepare the soil not only directly in the beds, but throughout the entire area. Enrich it, improve it physical properties, moisture capacity and breathability, thus increasing fertility, will help by digging up the soil with a mixture of manure with compost, fallen leaves, river, pond, lake silt, bark, and sawdust.
Can't leave manure with everyone additional components on the surface as they quickly lose everything beneficial features. For heavy clay soil, add several buckets of sand (the amount depends on the size of the area being treated). Sheep and horse manure have the most valuable qualities; pork manure is poor in calcium, but has a high content of nitrogen, which burns the roots. The most popular product - cattle manure - is used in a highly diluted form after overheating.
If it was not possible to purchase a sufficient amount of manure in time, you can replace it with leaf soil. In the fall, you should collect fallen leaves in large piles and, covering them with soil, leave them until spring. When the snow melts, the leafy piles must be stirred up with a pitchfork and covered with black film. When exposed to heat, a thick dark brown mass is formed, ready for use.
One of best views organic fertilizers for all vegetable crops - bird droppings. Pigeon and chicken droppings have the most valuable qualities. You can use goose and duck, but they are not as effective. It is not difficult to prepare liquid fertilizer: add water in a ratio of 1:5 to a container with bird droppings, close tightly and leave for 5 days. Pour the resulting mass with water in a ratio of 1:10 and use for its intended purpose. Feeding based on bird droppings is harmless and safe, but when using it, you should avoid getting the product on plant leaves.
Mineral fertilizers in the garden
For good harvest vital mineral fertilizers(nitrogen, iron, calcium, phosphorus, sulfur, potassium, magnesium) and microelements(copper, boron, molybdenum, manganese, zinc).
Flaw nitrogen characterized by growth retardation and discoloration of stems and leaves, decreased yield, and early death of lower leaves. Cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, white cabbage, and zucchini ripen slowly, become tough and tasteless. To prevent this from happening, you should add small doses from spring to early summer. ammonium nitrate or ammonia nitrogen . In hot summers, you should feed vegetables from time to time. urea, but we must not forget that excess nitrogen is just as harmful as deficiency.
Phosphorus fertilizers necessary for normal development plants and ripening of vegetables and fruits, increasing their viability in unfavorable conditions. With a lack of phosphorus, plants wither, do not bloom, and the color of the leaves becomes brown or purple. On alkaline and acidic soils, it is recommended to use water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers, such as ammophos, single and granular double superphosphate. Insoluble in water phosphate rock should be deeply embedded in acidic podzolic soil, as it does not penetrate into the deeper layers of the earth with rainwater.
Efficiency phosphate rock increases if you mix it with peat, manure, ammonium sulfate, but not with lime fertilizers. Phosphorus fertilizers can be incorporated into the soil in the fall or in early spring, once every few years.
Potash fertilizers– potassium chloride and sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium salt, potassium carbonate, potassium magnesia, wood ash – are required to enrich light, weathered sandy and sandy loam soils. A lack of potassium causes disruption of oxidative processes, reduces the intensity of photosynthesis, and leads to a weakening of the plant immune system. Potassium sulfate, which also contains small doses of sulfur, calcium, magnesium, has a beneficial effect on legumes, potatoes, cabbage, radishes, radishes. Fertilizer is used for spring and summer feeding. In the fall, you can add it to the soil before digging up the garden at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. per 1 sq.m.
Signs of micronutrient deficiency:
- Shortage copper manifests itself in slow growth and early wilting of plants, the appearance of white spots on leaves, and increased susceptibility to fungal diseases.
- Dull greenish-yellow leaf color indicates a deficiency molybdenum.
- Change in leaf color is characteristic of a deficiency magnesium.
- For absence boron the plant reacts with weak development of the root system and poor flowering.
It is almost impossible to independently determine the dose of microelements, so it is better to buy universal fertilizers, which contain the entire complex of microelements.
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In order to properly fertilize the soil, you need to follow several rules - do not add too much fertilizer to the soil, for example, it is better a little less than the plants need, so as not to create environmental problems. It is advisable to combine organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers, as well as combine basic spring fertilizers With regular feeding. Potassium fertilizers contribute good growth and increasing plant immunity Nitrogen fertilizers affect only the growth process. Nitrogen should be added only in the spring during the first waterings. Most the right fertilizer there is manure. It contains everything you need, enriches and loosens the soil. It needs to be applied to the soil once every 3 years. In addition, organic fertilizers have only a negligible effect on environment, because they are made from compost or animal dung. Therefore, it is better to use these types of fertilizers rather than artificial fertilizers, which, although they contain concentrated nutrients for your plants, but spoil the environment and settle in the soil. Di and whoever likes it, eat a cucumber from own garden made from chemicals?
Application of fertilizers and measures to improve soil composition
Sandy soils poor in humus can be improved by regularly applying organic fertilizers. The mechanical composition of light sandy soil can be improved by adding crushed clay to it.
Heavy loamy, clayey and uncultivated soils can be easily improved by adding organic fertilizers, loosening materials, and liming.
Autumn digging of soil- exactly this the right time for applying the bulk of organic, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, lime materials and mineral additives in the form of sand or clay.
Autumn is good time for putting into the ground phosphate fertilizers. In order for them to reach the roots of plants, a long period of time is needed. These fertilizers are not washed out of the soil for quite a long time; if they are introduced in the fall, then the earth will become saturated with them all winter. At the same time, potash fertilizers containing chlorine are also applied. Movement until spring soil water will move chlorine to deeper soil horizons.
The formation of a fertile soil layer is facilitated by digging up the entire free surface of the site, onto which a natural fertilizer such as wood ash has previously been applied.
If you intend to grow such garden crops, like zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, celery, then during the autumn digging you need to add manure, humus or compost to the soil. If in the area where it is supposed to grow carrots, beets, scorzonera, radishes, organic fertilizers were applied in the previous season, then it is enough to apply mineral fertilizers. You can limit yourself to a small amount of humus or compost. Organic fertilizers include manure, bird droppings, slurry, humus, peat and composts.
It is not recommended to embed into the soil during digging fresh bird droppings, rabbit, sheep and goat manure. It must first be composted. Many vegetable growers generally prefer to add only rotted manure to the soil. Starting in the fall, they stack fresh manure in layers in a compacted pile on a dry, well-compacted area, which is covered with a thick layer of clay so that the manure does not come into contact with the ground. The layers are laid out with turf or peat, covering the stack on top with the same turf, sawdust, straw or peat. To prevent moisture from precipitation from penetrating inside the stack, it is covered with film. Manure lying on winter cold, used when planting early vegetable crops. After adding rotted manure to the soil, you can grow greens, onions, carrots, cucumbers and pumpkins on it. If sufficient quantities of manure were used as fertilizer on the site, then it is permissible not to use other organic fertilizers.
Especially bountiful harvest give vegetables in the 2nd year after applying manure. Nice bow grows after incorporating horse manure into the soil, and beets and parsley - after sheep manure. Radishes get more yield in those areas that have been fed with cow manure.
Bird droppings considered strong and fast-acting fertilizer. He contains big number batteries will soon decompose. Typically, bird droppings are stored together with peat, combining them into equal parts. The litter is most effective if it contains liquid fertilizers along with mullein solution.
It is advisable to collect and store chicken manure in the same way as regular manure, insulating the piles with peat chips, sawdust or leaves. If the piles of droppings freeze, the droppings will stop decomposing and many plant nutrients will be lost.
➣ All remnants of damaged plants and vegetables and disease-infected tops must be carefully collected, dried and burned in dry weather. The resulting ash can be used as fertilizer when digging.
The humus content in the soil is significantly increased by adding a large volume of manure compost. In addition, such an event inhibits the activity of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Manure compost contains antibiotics; they are secreted by individual soil microorganisms that suppress pathogens.
The readiness of the compost laid in the previous year should be checked on the eve of winter, in November. It must be shoveled and then insulated. Before frost, compost heaps should be covered with branches and soil with a layer of up to 50 cm, which will protect them from freezing.
A more detailed separate article was devoted to fertilizing chicken manure.
Peat used as fertilizer in manure-peat mixtures. Peat is used on its own to improve the structure of the soil as a loosening material.
Some gardeners fertilize the soil with leaf soil, considering it a relatively good fertilizer. The foliage is collected in a heap in the fall, covered so that the wind does not blow it around the site, and left for the winter. In the spring, if the leaves have decomposed, mix them with soil. If they have not decomposed by spring, then they are dug up and left until autumn.
Often, gardeners collect the bulk of plant debris with a rake, garden leaves, tops and put in compost heap, considering it as an ideal material for humus. Plant residues and debris from spring greenhouses and greenhouses are also placed there. However, such fertilizer increases the likelihood of soil contamination by one or another fungal disease. If there is the slightest suspicion that weeds, grass, or vegetable shoots are infected with pathogens or eggs of various harmful insects, then they cannot be used as future fertilizer. Pathogens of plant diseases and harmful insects usually settle in the pre-winter period among plant debris, dry tops, on dry branches and trunks of old trees. However, it is better to burn the leaves and other plant debris and feed the soil with the resulting ash.
During the autumn digging, many gardeners heavy soils They bring in manure mixed with sawdust, which was used as bedding for livestock. Sometimes clean sawdust is used, after scalding it with boiling water. Sawdust is useful as a loosening material on heavy soils. But wood decomposes very slowly in the soil, consuming too much nitrogen, which is very undesirable. This process must be prevented by moistening the sawdust with a solution of carbamide (urea) or a solution of mullein (3 liters of mullein per 10 liters of water). For 3 buckets of sawdust you will need 10 liters of solution with mullein. For pre-treatment sawdust it is permissible to use and special solution: dissolve 150 g of superphosphate, 100 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of potassium chloride in 10 liters of water. When digging in autumn, it is enough to add half a bucket of sawdust every 1 m2.
During digging soil for a garden in newly developed areas of the non-chernozem strip, where it is necessary to create a humus layer, approximately half a bucket of organic fertilizers should be applied per 1 m2 of the cultivated area. In uncultivated, previously uncultivated areas, it is necessary to remove the roots of old plants from the soil, remove stumps and snags, and select stones. When processing such soil with a shovel or plow, it is necessary to cut it into thin layers and add an additional 3-4 cm of podzolized soil or subsoil rudyakov clay. During autumn digging, loosening materials and organic fertilizers should be incorporated into heavy clay soil in larger volumes than when cultivating cultivated land. Peat, manure, compost should be added at least half a bucket for every 1 m2, supplementing them wood ash.
At autumn processing virgin clay soil, to organic fertilizers, you need to add 1 or 2 liter jars of coarse grains, respectively. river sand and slaked lime.
Loam, river sand, fallen leaves, potassium and phosphorus should be added to the peat soil. Sufficient quantities must be added to such lands annually. organic fertilizers.
When incorporated into the soil, organic fertilizers or plant residues must be thoroughly mixed with the soil and covered with a layer of soil on top. This one is simple agricultural method will prevent the spread weeds, pests and pathogens of garden plants.
Acidic soils are neutralized by liming. The addition of lime reduces the acidity and fatigue of the soil, enriches it with calcium, thereby increasing fertility. After liming, heavy clay soils become looser, which significantly improves their water-air regime. Calcium in lime improves the structure and general properties soil. Liming activates the activity of various microorganisms that assimilate nitrogen or decompose organic matter. Improving air access to the roots favors the life of these microorganisms. Their activity helps improve plant nutrition. Due to the addition of lime, the yield of all vegetable crops increases.
The carried out liming improves the conditions for processing heavy soils, after which it is much easier to dig them up. After liming, light soils become moisture-absorbing, and the bonds between particles are strengthened.
Be sure to lime high marshy soils and add organic fertilizers to them. Low-lying marshy soils are not as acidic, but they still need to be limed.
The productive organs (mother plants) of biennial vegetable crops must be stored together with the roots in winter in piles or storage facilities, and planted in the spring of next year to obtain seeds.
Autumn liming of the soil is a reliable preventive measure in the fight against wireworms: beetles with an elongated oval body up to approximately 15-16 mm in length. The larvae of this beetle destroy many vegetable crops: cabbage, onions, carrots, beets, tomatoes, etc. appearance the beetles look like pieces of wire, which is why they got their name. They choose low-lying places to live, overwinter in the soil, and lay their eggs in it.
The amount of alkaline materials added to the soil depends on the calcium content in them, the degree of acidity of the soil and its mechanical composition: clay, loam or sand. At autumn liming use all kinds of alkaline materials, such as slaked lime, dolomite flour, wood and peat ash, chalk, meadow marl, ground limestone, cement dust, etc. Only very finely ground lime can be used to add to the soil. Therefore, it is advisable to sift through everything lime fertilizers before their immediate use. Experts recommend adding 0.5-1 kg of slaked lime for every 1 m2 of soil.
The main condition for liming is that the material chosen for it must be scattered evenly over the area. After applying it, the soil should turn white. Usually this event is done once every 5-6 years and only during autumn tillage.
It is quite acceptable to replace lime ash or use eggshells, which contain a large number of lime
The shells should be thoroughly crushed before embedding in the ground. Why do you need to put it in a strong, hard bag and trample on it? Carrots, cucumbers and cabbage prefer eggshell lime.
Ash reduces soil acidity, which is useful on light sandy and peaty soils. To reduce their acidity level, you can use ash from peat combustion (up to 7 kg of ash per 10 m2). From burning brushwood hardwood the resulting ash is more valuable than from the brushwood of coniferous trees.
Lime materials are not recommended to be added with fresh manure: with this proximity, a large amount of nitrogen is lost. If it is necessary to lim the soil, it is more advisable to postpone the application of organic fertilizers to the spring. Although liming materials such as dolomite and bone meal are quite compatible with manure. They can be applied during autumn tillage; they are especially good for sandy or sandy loam soils. On heavy clay soils it is preferable to carry out liming slaked lime. But in everything you need to observe moderation: with excessive liming, the soil can become neutral. If it becomes alkaline with a pH level above 7.5, plants begin to grow poorly.
Along with organic fertilizers, during autumn tillage it is necessary to add the necessary mineral additives. In heavy clay soil, it is recommended to annually add 1 or 1.5 buckets of coarse river sand for every 1 m2. Approximately the same volumes should be filled with peat chips.
During autumn processing peat soils need to be paid equal amount river sand and powdered dry clay. Although this technique requires high costs labor, but brings a significant effect. Adding significant volumes of sand and organic matter allows you to transform the top arable layer of clay soil 15 - 20 cm thick into loam within 5 years.
Mineral fertilizers it is more expedient to embed it in the ground, taking into account exactly what crops were grown in a particular area. Cabbage and potatoes absorb nitrogen and potassium from the soil, while radish prefers to extract almost all the phosphorus. Therefore, when cultivating the soil in autumn, it is necessary to apply various sets fertilizers for different areas.
Mineral fertilizers should be used with restrictions, at a very strict rate. When adding excessive amounts to the soil mineral fertilizers all microorganisms and earthworms die. Gradually, the yield in such areas sharply decreases. In addition, excess applied mineral fertilizers are harmful to humans.
During the autumn digging of the site, the addition of ash is of great benefit: it is a very valuable fertilizer and contains a lot of potassium and phosphorus. In addition, the ash contains calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese, sulfur and other elements beneficial for plants. As a mineral fertilizer, wood ash should be applied at a rate of 2-4 kg per 1 m2. You can sprinkle ash on the ground when cultivating it or place it in holes and furrows. But if the soil has been limed, then ash may not be added for 1-2 years.
Wood ash is a universal fertilizer that is recommended for use for all crops and is available to every gardener. Eggplants, zucchini, potatoes, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and pumpkin need it most. Many trees begin to bear fruit only after feeding them with wood ash. Dry ash does not lose its properties within for long years storage However, wet ash loses almost all of its calcium. Therefore, ash should be placed in boxes or barrels for storage in a dry place.
In conditions high humidity densely planted plants often suffer from various fungal diseases; mosses and lichens can settle on the bark of branches of trees and shrubs.
Those vegetable crops and potatoes that are planted on acidic podzolic and sandy soils respond well to the addition of ash. For these crops, it is better to apply ash into holes and furrows as the main fertilizer.
However, under no circumstances is it permitted to use ash from peat or shale, if it has a rust color. It indicates that the ash contains harmful impurities. Particularly harmful is the ash from burned trees that grew on the sides of highways.
Ash can be replaced by additional addition of potassium sulfate to the soil. If the garden is planted on acidic soil, then it is advisable to apply approximately 150-200 kg of lime to the entire area. Ash also serves as a valuable preventive measure in the fight against many pests And diseases of vegetable crops. On light soils it is advisable to apply it in spring and summer. On clay soils, it is advisable to apply ash in the fall as well.
Many specialists and experienced gardeners They believe that to get a good harvest of vegetables it is enough to add soil rotted manure or compost, ash, and also replenish in a timely manner garden plants liquid organic fertilizers.
It is important to make the irrigation system correctly, which, in principle, is not difficult and has already been discussed on the site.
On tired, depleted soil that needs loosening and enrichment with nitrogen, it is quite acceptable to sow leguminous plants: vetch, peas, lupine or beans - as intercrops. Yellow lupine grows better on light sandy soils, while white lupine prefers loamy soils with a neutral acid reaction.
If in soil too large volumes were applied on the site organic fertilizers, excess nitrates accumulate in it. You can relieve the soil of these unwanted substances by sowing winter rapeseed or mustard.
It is very important to attract earthworms to the garden, which process organic matter added to the soil into humus. At the same time, they release calcium carbonate, which reduces the acidity of the soil. Organic matter processed into humus becomes many times more beneficial for plants. It is well absorbed by the root system of plants.
It’s easy to set up a kind of “apartment” for worms: a small hole the depth of a shovel and an area of 1 m2 needs to be filled with plant waste, eggshell, food waste, mullein, manure or peat. The height of the pile should be approximately 30-40 cm, it should be slightly shaded from the sun. Earthworms They will rush to occupy the housing prepared for them. In addition, they are happy to settle on raised beds and work in them for the benefit of the gardener.
Many people think that the most the best feeding- this is mullein. They say that this is a natural fertilizer, which means it contains everything that plants need. But this statement is only partly true. Mullein contains a lot of nitrogen, but there are no other nutrients. How to correct this imbalance?
Of course, with the help of mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing with mineral water can quickly eliminate nutritional deficiencies. But you need to learn to determine by certain symptoms what exactly a particular plant lacks.
If there is not enough nitrogen
Nitrogen deficiency is a fairly common situation. In this case, the leaves on the plants are small and pale, and the plants themselves turn yellow and wither. They may bloom prematurely, but the flower stalks are weak and there are few flowers.
With a lack of nitrogen, garlic turns yellow prematurely. Lower leaves the cabbages turn pinkish-yellow and fall off. U white cabbage an elongated stalk is formed, cauliflower lays weak inflorescences. The cucumbers' lashes turn yellow, and the fruits take on a hooked shape with a pointed tip.
1 tbsp will help bring plants back to life. a spoonful of urea dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution should be sprayed on the plants and also fed at the roots. Literally after three to four days, signs of nitrogen starvation usually disappear. And to enhance the effect, before the next watering you need to sprinkle the beds with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 50 g per 1 m2.
Potassium deficiency
When there is a lack of potassium in the soil, the edges of the leaves of plants turn white, and then they turn brown and dry out. This phenomenon was called edge burn.
If there is not enough potassium for a long time, plant stems become weak and fall easily. Cucumber leaves become convex and the edges curl down.
Potassium starvation is eliminated with a solution of potassium chloride (50 g per 10 liters of water). The plants are sprayed with this solution, and 50-70 g of potassium sulfate is scattered under the roots and the beds are thoroughly watered.
We urgently need phosphorus!
Phosphorus starvation is not as common as nitrogen or potassium starvation. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become dull, dark green in color. On their underside the color becomes bluish-green, purple or purple shades. This is especially noticeable along the veins.
U tomato seedlings The stems also turn bluish-green. Reddish and purple spots may appear. Leaves begin to fall, dried leaves turn black. At the same time, the shoots become thin and growth slows down.
Plants can be cured by adding double superphosphate (30 g per 1 m2 of bed).
Boron - for growth and beauty
Plants are most often deficient in this microelement. With a lack of boron, the growth points of the stems are primarily affected. Stems and leaves become distorted. And cucumbers also have bent fruits. Zucchini and zucchini become rough and lumpy. In white cabbage, cavities appear in the stalk, and cauliflower inflorescences become loose, acquire a brown color, and small leaves grow through them.
Beets lose their ability to be stored - they rot either while still in the garden or during storage. The carrots become covered with black marks - damage.
All problems are solved by adding 3 g boric acid per 1 m2 of beds.
Mineral fertilizers are not only effective, but also very easy to use. In order, for example, to carry out foliar feeding, just dissolve them in water and let them settle. And then pour the solution into plastic bottle with a sprinkler - and you can start. Root feeding easy to carry out using a garden watering can. And in order to measure required quantity fertilizers, you can use the simplest measuring instruments - a glass and a spoon.
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During the growing season, almost all plants that are grown in a garden plot need feeding. Experienced summer residents prepare a universal fertilizer for the garden and vegetable garden - an organic infusion that has a complete biological complex active substances. The composition obtained as a result of fermentation is used for all vegetable, berry and fruit crops.
Benefits of using all-purpose fertilizer
Stimulation of growth of the root system and above-ground parts of plants;
Saturation of the soil with humic compounds, as well as nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and basic microelements (boron, iron, iodine, magnesium, calcium, fluorine, zinc, manganese, sulfur, molybdenum, etc.);
Improving the structure and fertility of the soil;
Activation of fruiting processes;
Creation favorable conditions for the development of beneficial soil microflora;
Improvement quality characteristics harvest of all crops.
How to prepare universal fertilizer?
You will need large barrel, volume 200 l. To activate fermentation processes, it is best if it stands in a warm place, for example, in the sun. It is advisable to locate the tank away from residential buildings, since during cooking the liquid emits a very unpleasant aroma.
Three days before adding the fertilizer components to the barrel, prepare yeast starter: V three liter jar poured clean water(without chlorine), dissolve a packet of dry yeast (10 g) and half a faceted glass of granulated sugar in it, place in warm place for fermentation for 48-72 hours, after which it is poured into a common barrel. If adding the starter to the fertilizer is delayed, it should be stored in the refrigerator.
In addition to the yeast infusion, a shovel is placed in the container furnace soot or plant ash, 1/2 a bucket of mullein or a full bucket of rotten straw (can be replaced with leaf litter from last season), 2 liters of regular soil from the garden.
All components of the fertilizer are poured into the tank with water, but not to the top, since during the process of rotting foam forms on the surface. The top of the barrel is covered with a lid to minimize evaporation and the sharp and very specific smell spreading around. The preparation time for the fertilizer stock solution is 7-8 days. It is recommended to mix the mixture daily using a shovel or long stick.
How to use all-purpose fertilizer correctly?
The universal garden fertilizer received after a week is ready for use. It is bred for root feeding clean water 1:10, pour into a watering can and water cultivated plants at the root at the rate of 1/2 -1 liter for each seedling and 5-6 liters for each mature tree. The frequency of fertilization is once every 2-3 weeks, starting from April-May until the end of the season.
The following crops are most responsive to watering with universal bodyaga: cucumbers, zucchini, onions, potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, cabbage, carrots, beets, garden strawberries, gooseberries, currants, grapes, cherries, peach, apricot. Annual and perennial plants respond well to such feeding. flower crops, preferring non-acidic soils: petunia, roses, peonies, hydrangea, tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, asters, geraniums.
Have a good harvest in your garden!
Instructions
The most popular type of fertilizer is manure. It contains a large amount nutrients and microorganisms that secrete carbon dioxide necessary for plants for normal growth and nutrition. Soil fertilized with manure becomes looser, which has an additional beneficial effect on growth and development. Horse and sheep manure are considered the best for fertilizer. It contains the most potassium and nitrogen necessary for plants. If a sufficient amount of manure is applied to the site, nutrients will continue to flow to the plants for 5-6 years. And everything would be fine, but manure is an expensive fertilizer, and spreading it around the site is very difficult, especially for a lonely elderly person. To spread manure around personal plot men's required physical strength.
The second most popular type of fertilizer is humus. It is rotted manure and contains even more nutrients. The consumption of humus should be 4 times more than manure. After spreading the soil over the area, you need to immediately or dig it.
Due to at a high price and first and second fertilizer gardeners and garden nicks are arranged at the sites compost pits, where they dump all the weeding, vegetable peelings and everything that can rot and go next as fertilizer. The pit is constantly watered with water and care is taken to ensure that everything thrown into the pit is kept moist. In spring, the entire contents of the pit are scattered over garden y and close up in .
Nowadays, fertilizers are increasingly being used, which are not scattered throughout the entire area, but are applied purposefully into each hole, under each bush or. This is a large range of mineral fertilizers, which are presented in stores in wide range.
Often garden Nicks are trying to fertilize garden sawdust. This is of little use. They help improve the structure of the soil and retain moisture in it for a longer time. They act like sawdust only when rotted. To do this, the pile of sawdust must be watered and covered with cellophane. They can only be spread as fertilizer next year.
Has your garden become too small for you? Do you want more area for crops? This means that we need to prepare the garden for future plantings now, in the summer. To ensure that your planted vegetables bring a lot of harvest next year, prepare for them fertile land, rich in a variety of trace elements, minerals and beneficial bacteria.
In order to make a vegetable garden, you can go in two ways: dig up and fertilize, or first fertilize and then dig up. Of course, the methods differ only in the order of actions, but this greatly affects the time it takes to prepare the land for planting and the effort that you will have to put into preparation. Usually only the first ten centimeters of soil are fertile; anything deeper is poor in microelements.
First way consists of digging up a marked area for a vegetable garden, and then fertilizing it with all kinds of fertilizers. To begin work, remove all stones from the surface, uproot stumps, dig small trees and mow the tall grass. Then dig up. It’s easier to do this with a tractor or, but a shovel will be good for your health and figure. After plowing, you need to apply fertilizer. This can be rotted cow or bird manure, compost, peat, or black soil. If the soil is clayey, then it is worth adding sand and sawdust to the garden to make it softer and airier. Lime can be added to an acidic environment, and urea, sulfur, ferrous sulfate or manganese solution can be added to an alkaline environment. During such treatments, in 2-3 years the land will bring you a good harvest.
Second way quicker. Using it, next year you can get good and soft soil for planting. With the second method, you also need to uproot the stumps and, if possible, saw them into small pieces. Mow the grass. All you have done is leave it for the future. After this, cover the entire marked area with cardboard or newspapers in 3-4 layers. Sprinkle any manure or compost onto the paper. Water it all until it is well moist. If the summer is dry, water the future garden as it dries out. The absence of light and sun, an abundance of heat and bacteria will destroy weeds, grass, and decompose sawn stumps and small trees. The soil next year will be soft, airy and fertile. This coming spring, you can safely plow a new vegetable garden along with compost and cardboard (which will no longer be visible) and plant whatever you want in it. This method will save you effort and time, and the result will be even better than the first method.
If you don’t have manure or compost, you can cover your future garden with black film. It can be purchased at any hardware store. This way you will kill weeds and grass. And compost is very easy to make yourself.
Video on the topic
Fertilizers can be bought in the store for any type of plant, but you can prepare it yourself without spending a lot of effort and money. Annual crop rotation also reduces fertilizer costs.
Instructions
Many people buy manure from the markets by car to fertilize the land. Part knowledgeable people collects horse manure on his own in the fields as soon as the snow melts. Manure is considered the most good fertilizer, it makes the land fertile just like peat.
If you look around, you can see a large number of weeds. After all, grass is also a fertilizer for the soil and a microclimate for growing beneficial fungi, microbes, worms. The plant mass gradually decomposes from year to year, creating optimal mode humidity, and provides nutrition to the plants in the beds.
The grass for fertilizer can be different, but it is best to chop it up to improve and speed up reheating. In this form, the mulch will interfere less underfoot when laid out on paths or in beds.
