You, as a novice pilot, have decided to figure out how to make a radio-controlled quadcopter on a remote control (mini or with a camera) with your own hands at home. The task, at first glance, is simple, but there are a lot of nuances that you should pay attention to - more on this in our detailed instructions.
The myth of complete cheapness
If you are new to aircraft modeling, then you should accept that this is not a cheap undertaking.
Now “slippers will fly” that there is a video circulating on the Internet where a small drone was assembled from scrap materials and funds for only 50 rubles, spending only 2 hours of time.
Take a closer look - it's a joke. It's a shame if you believed that self-tapping screws plastic dishes and aluminum corners can be assembled to become a full-fledged copter.
Disappointed by the information? Then it’s better to buy a ready-made RTF quad (ready to fly) and not fool your head.
What you need at the very beginning
If you still have a desire, then first you should have hands from right place, namely, from the shoulders. Also, at least superficial knowledge of electronics and a little of programming, determination and lack of laziness and, of course, the details according to the list.
Oh yes, you also need to decide on the main function of the drone. At the very beginning, it is better to make a quadcopter without a camera. You need to get good at managing it so that one of the expensive equipment does not break or drown.
An important detail for beginners is the place where you will release your first drone for flights. Urban area disappears immediately, since houses, trees and wires will interfere with test flights. The park is also not suitable. One wrong move - the vacationer and your newly-made child can suffer. It's better to go out open field and drive the quad for your own pleasure.
List of main spare parts:
- frame;
- motors with controllers for them;
- screws;
- battery for quadcopter and remote control;
- flight controller;
- control panel with signal reception and transmission;
- charger;
- connecting wires, bolts, etc.;
- tools for work.
In order to be able to modify the drone in the future to work with video and photography, the base between the copter’s beams should be made wider to later accommodate other devices.
Choosing a quadcopter shape
First of all, you should decide on the number of beams and screws on the copter. There is a wide variety in modifications and external views Flying drones, based on the number of beams emerging from the center of the frame, are tri-, quad-, hexa- and octocopters.
The number of propellers may be greater than the number of beams. But the name doesn't change. For example, a quadcopter has two engines with propellers on each arm - this does not make it an octocopter.
From the title of the article it is clear that we will talk about drones that have four axes (and standard four motors).
The shape of the beams on a quad aircraft can also be different (+, X or H - shaped).
The most popular model among copter pilots remains the quatrocopter with the beams arranged in an X shape (it can be seen in the diagram). Firstly, two motors pull the entire structure forward at once, and secondly, the attached video camera will not see the propellers in front of it.
What to consider when selecting all spare parts
Based on estimated weight complete structure already FPV, you should assemble a copter with powerful motors. This means purchasing additional batteries or installing more capacious ones at once.
To make the design easier, you can make the frame yourself. There are options: starting from simple wooden rulers, ending aluminum profile or tubes. You can save money on this. The main thing is that the material is durable, since when it falls, the first thing that suffers is the rays of the copter.
Of course, there are ready-made frames, but you should beware of fakes, otherwise after the first crash test at least one “leg” will fly off. During management skills, it is better to use available materials.
Quadcopter beams have optimal parameter- 30-60 cm in length from motor to motor.
To avoid injury and to avoid mowing down the foliage of nearby trees, as well as to test the copter at home, you can put special protection on the propellers.
What will the flight controller and all the other gadgets be attached to? Here, too, you can turn on your imagination. Of course, cardboard will not work, but a square of plywood and a plastic base from a CD box are optimal. It's not heavy and will hold up to whatever needs to be attached.
If you plan to use an action camera in the future, you should leave room for the receiver and transmitter of the camera signal on the tablet and a place for its mounting.
Motors - you need four of them at once. Propellers are mainly selected by diameter and power. The diameter is taken from the parameters of the frame (if it is homemade, then at your discretion).
Motor control controllers are needed to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades. The power of the engines directly depends on the weight of the drone assembly.
Batteries for motors can vary in capacity. It is better to provide the opportunity to change batteries for higher powers and, of course, use not one, but several at once.
The screws themselves can be taken 9-12 cm. A pair of ordinary ones and 2 with reverse rotation. It is advisable that they come with fasteners for several types of motors at once.
The most important and most expensive part of a quatrocopter is its “brains,” namely, the flight controller—you can’t skimp on it. This is where the future capabilities of the drone need to be taken into account. It is better to take a programmable microcontroller (for example, Arduino Mega). The sensors for it can be taken “all in one” All In One (gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer, magnetometer), or at a minimum - a gyroscope and an accelerometer.
Additional features:
- GPS - flight route programming;
- “soft landing” - fail safe (if radio communication with the remote control is lost, the copter will land smoothly and not crash to the ground);
- FPV (first person view) - first person view, and observation from a tablet.
The transmitter for the control board should be selected according to your budget. The main thing is that there are at least four channels and a frequency of 2.4 GHz. It can be purchased for left-handed or right-handed people.
Of course, you will have to tinker with the wires, but in capable hands this time will pass quickly.
It is better to attach a special soft lining to the legs of the copter or to the beams themselves on the frame to make landing easier on hard surfaces.
It won't be easy, but it will be interesting and entertaining!
Some more drone ideas
But craftsmen are not limited to only standard materials to create radio-controlled quadcopters - they use Lego parts, paper, bottles, and coolers, independently creating drawings and creating their device step by step.
Paper quadcopter
Imagine, there are also paper aircraft! Of course, they do not involve serious loads, so they create them just for fun.
As fastenings for paper models use a glue gun and plastic ties. Also mandatory element small wooden blocks become - this is necessary so that the paper is not torn by the ties under load.
Drone made from coolers
If you happen to have old computer coolers in your hands, don’t rush to throw them away! They will make a great (though not the strongest) copter. To create it, you will need four computer fans and the same set of materials and tools as for a regular drone - but without the motors.
Today, ordering electronics for a quadcopter from China is very cheap. Assembling a quadcopter frame with your own hands from scrap materials is not at all difficult. You can learn to fly with the help of flight simulators. So the main thing is to have the desire to make a quadcopter with your own hands.
It is best to buy ready-made electronics for a quadcopter.
DIY radio-controlled quadcopter assembly
First you need to decide whether you will use a standard frame or decide to make your own.
A purchased frame is convenient, but if it breaks, you will have to wait until a spare part arrives. A homemade quadcopter frame assembled with your own hands allows you to repair a breakdown in 20-30 minutes, but requires extra work in the manufacture of a quadcopter.
Most simple option is the use plastic pipes for wiring. They are light and quite durable. In addition, you can buy swivel parts and wall mounts that are suitable for attaching electric motors to the frame.
The result is a very durable design that allows you to carry not only the electronics of the quadcopter itself, but also a camera for video recording from the quadcopter.
An important detail for beginners is the place where you will release your first drone for flights. Urban areas are no longer needed, since houses, trees and wires will interfere with test flights. The park is also not suitable. One wrong move - the vacationer and your newly-made child can suffer. It’s better to go out into an open field and drive the quad for your own pleasure.
List of main spare parts:
O motors with controllers for them;
O battery for quadcopter and remote control;
O flight controller;
O control panel with signal reception and transmission;
O charger;
O connecting wires, bolts, etc.;
O tools for work.
In order to be able to modify the drone in the future to work with video and photography, the base between the copter’s beams should be made wider to later accommodate other devices.
Choosing a quadcopter shape
First of all, you should decide on the number of beams and screws on the copter. There is a wide variety in the modifications and appearance of flying drones, based on the number of rays emerging from the center of the frame, there are tri-, quad-, hexa- and octocopters.
The number of propellers may be greater than the number of beams. But the name doesn't change. For example, a quadcopter has two engines with propellers on each arm - this does not make it an octocopter.
The most popular model among copter pilots remains the quatrocopter with its beams arranged in an X shape. Firstly, two motors at once pull the entire structure forward, and secondly, the attached video camera will not see the propellers in front of it.
What to consider when selecting all spare parts
Based on the expected weight of the complete structure already FPV quadcopter with a camera, you should assemble a copter with powerful motors. This means purchasing additional batteries or installing more capacious ones at once.
Visual assembly video:
YouTube Video
To make the design easier, you can make the frame yourself. There are options: from simple wooden rulers to aluminum profiles or tubes. You can save money on this. The main thing is that the material is durable, since when it falls, the first thing that suffers is the copter’s rays.
Of course, there are ready-made frames, but you should beware of fakes, otherwise after the first crash test at least one “leg” will fly off. During management skills, it is better to use available materials.
The beams for a quadcopter have an optimal parameter - 30-60 cm in length from motor to motor.
To avoid getting hurt and not to mow down the foliage of nearby trees, as well as to test the copter at home, you can put special protection on the propellers.
What will the flight controller and all the other gadgets be attached to? Here, too, you can turn on your imagination. Of course, cardboard will not work, but a square of plywood and a plastic base from a CD box are optimal. It's not heavy and will hold up to whatever needs to be attached.
Motors - you need four of them at once. Propellers are mainly selected by diameter and power. The diameter is taken from the parameters of the frame (if it is homemade, then at your discretion).
Motor control controllers are needed to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades. The power of the engines directly depends on the weight of the drone assembly.
Batteries for motors can vary in capacity. It is better to provide the opportunity to change batteries for higher powers and, of course, use not one, but several at once.
The screws themselves can be taken 9-12 cm. A pair of ordinary ones and 2 with reverse rotation. It is advisable that they come with fasteners for several types of motors at once.
The most important and most expensive part of a quatrocopter is its “brains,” namely the flight controller—you can’t skimp on it. This is where the future capabilities of the drone need to be taken into account. It is better to take a programmable microcontroller (for example, Arduino Mega). The sensors for it can be taken “all in one” All In One (gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer, magnetometer), or at a minimum - a gyroscope and an accelerometer.
Additional features:
· GPS — flight route programming;
· “soft landing” - fail safe (if radio communication with the remote control is lost, the copter will land smoothly and not crash to the ground);
· FPV (first person view) - first person view, and observation from a tablet.
The transmitter for the control board should be selected according to your budget. The main thing is that there are at least four channels and a frequency of 2.4 GHz. It can be purchased for left-handed or right-handed people.
Of course, you will have to tinker with the wires, but in capable hands this time will pass quickly.
It is better to attach a special soft lining to the legs of the copter or to the beams themselves on the frame to make landing easier on hard surfaces.
It won't be easy, but it will be interesting and entertaining!
In addition to the basic materials, consumables are also required - bolts, nuts, washers.
At this stage, the tools you will need are a hacksaw, a drill and a file.
After all materials are prepared, we begin the process:
· Anyone in a convenient way transfer the drawing to the PCB blank and cut it waste material along the contour.
· Connect all the resulting parts, securing them.
· Prepare holes for the screws (they are red in the drawing) with a drill with a diameter of 3 millimeters.
· After the beams are fixed to the frame, make holes to facilitate the structure (in the drawing these are white circles).
· Prepare holes on the beams for mounting the motor.
· At the last stage, degrease the frame and glue it double-sided tape to dampen vibrations.
In subsequent stages, you will need the following elements: a board, motor controllers, propellers, motors, a battery and a charger for it, a transmitter and a receiver.
In order to secure the controllers to the adapter board, you should use copper wire without insulation. After this, the power wires, bus wires, and a toggle switch for turning the power on and off are soldered.
When placing controllers on the board, it is worth remembering that they all must be directed to the corresponding motors.
The next stage is installing the engines. It begins with soldering wires to the motor terminals and their insulation. Then the motors themselves are installed at the ends of the beams and secured with bolts on the underside of the “leg”.
After this comes the crucial moment of attaching the “brain” of the quadcopter – the adapter board. It is better to install it on small rubber dampers. It is important to protect the board from moisture and dust, so immediately cover it with any plastic cap. Its shape and transparency depends solely on your preferences and does not affect the safety of the board in any way.
A battery is attached to the prepared compartment, which is also best secured to a rubber layer.
At the last stage, we fix the screws on the motors, connect the transmitter and LED backlight.
From the general to the specific. The frame of the quad must be strong. A piece of plywood (150 x 150 mm) is suitable for its manufacture; a square aluminum profile (14 x 14 mm) can be used as a frame.
Profiles will also be needed for making beams. The length of each of them from the center of the structure should be 300 mm. By the way, you can fit pieces of foam or rubber on them, which will soften the landing.
Next is installing the board. You need to buy it. It is recommended to purchase a board already equipped with all sensors - gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer and magnetometer - AllInOne. There are also board options with a GPS receiver. The sensors can be attached to the structure using thick tape or silicone - this will help avoid strong vibration.
It must be mounted in the center of the structure. The screws should securely screw the board to the ends of the beams and pass through the plywood. There should be a receiver next to it. It can be glued with superglue.
The quadcopter motors should be located at the same distance. Therefore, before arranging them, you need to make precise markings on the beams and only then drill holes. By the way, the space for the tail of the shaft must be made all the way through, across its entire width, so that it does not touch its edges.
Now a little about the power wires of the speed controllers. They are connected in parallel using adapters. Where the battery is connected to them, a detachable connection should be made.
Now all that remains is to connect the wires to the corresponding motors and install the “brains”. Finding firmware for the board (Arduino) on the Internet is not difficult. First it is downloaded, then the settings. During installation, programs will appear step by step instructions. They must be strictly followed in order to debug the control of the device and calibrate it.
In the program menu there is a section AC2 Sensor. Here the operation of sensors and receivers is checked. All turns and changes in levels must be reflected with maximum accuracy in the oscillations of the needle and LED indicators.
After all this debugging, you can install the propellers and test the flight. In this case, it is better to place the device away from you. Gas should be applied smoothly. If the drone takes off, great. If it starts to shake, you should go to the PID settings. Other nuances of debugging through the program are also possible.
How to wisely choose a motor for a quadcopter? Undoubtedly, this part should be selected based on the characteristics and capabilities of the flying machine. The use of a motor is necessary only in large quadcopters, otherwise its presence will be unjustified and the device simply will not work.
The main rule is that you should choose a motor after final assembly quadcopter. When planning to attach a video camera or other device to a flying device, it is worth considering the additional weight. In order not to overload the device, it is necessary to calculate the thrust, which can be viewed using special tables. For example, if the weight of the device is 1.5 kilograms, then the thrust should be 2 times greater, that is, equal to 3 kilograms.
To choose the right quadcopter engine, you should carefully study all of it. characteristic properties. The screws of the device play an equally important role. The quadcopter hangs in the air due to several pairs of rotors rotating in different directions.
Just in order for the propellers to work normally, you need to select an engine based on the parameters of your quadcopter. Propellers consume a lot of motor energy, and motor power is important when purchasing.
To select the right motor, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with various videos where they will tell you in detail about good details for quadcopter. Thanks to the advice that already experienced pilots will give, you can assemble a unique quadcopter with a powerful engine.
Why is it needed? powerful engine? Firstly, it allows the device to fly much faster and longer, and to perform certain maneuvers. Secondly, you can attach additional cargo to the quadcopter, for example, a camera that will shoot materials while flying at altitude. Due to this, you can take high-quality photographs.
Therefore, you need to select an engine based on what kind of quadcopter you want to build. Should be selected correct power engine, otherwise the device may either not take off or be completely uncontrollable. To avoid this, you need to listen to the advice of experts, and then assembling the quadcopter will be very simple.
The desire to rise into the sky has probably never left a person. In this instruction we will take a step towards our dream and make a quadcopter with our own hands.
Step 1: Build the Frame
We look at the drawing and use the layout to model the frame of the quadcopter. This device will be based on wooden frame. To make it you will need wooden slats the following sizes: 60x3x2.4 cm and 57x3x2.4 cm, as well as a rectangular board 15x6x0.2 cm. Next, using glue and nails, we make a “cross” structure, which will serve as the frame.
Step 2. Prepare the motor
On at this stage Now is the time to install the motor, propeller and speed control (all items can be purchased online).
To make a quadcopter from this instruction, we used an EMAX MT2213 935kv engine, 24 cm propellers, and an EMAX 4in1 ESC.
Step 3: Installing the Engine
Using a caliper and a pencil, we mark the base and drill it with a drill, then secure the motor with the appropriate screws.
Step 4: Installing the Speed Controller
After the stage of installing the engine, we install the speed controller ties and wires on the lower part of the frame, and then the battery.
Step 5: Attach the chassis
To make a chassis, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm, cut rings 2 cm wide, in the amount of 4 pieces, and attach them to the frame with tape. This step is designed to land the quadcopter smoothly on the surface.
Step 6: Mounting the Quadcopter Controller
It is this that stabilizes the flight of the device and is the main element of this process. Top sellers:
"ArduPilot" - based on Arduino, characterized by high performance.
"DJI Naza" is an "advanced" controller, in price segment, more expensive than the above, but with a set different functions.
"OpenPilot CC3D" - based on STM32 and MPU6000 and six channels. It can also be reflashed.
"NAZE32" is an intricate device that is operated by experienced specialists.
“KK2.1” is the most popular on the Internet, equipped with an AVR microcontroller, and has a liquid crystal display.
"KKMulticontroller" - based on Atmel AVR, considered a slightly outdated model.
Step 7: Install the remote control
In general, the models vary from expensive ones - Futaba, Spektrum, to low-cost ones - Turnigy and Flysky. To make this quadcopter you will need a 4-channel control panel.
Step 8: Installation and configuration of electronic “stuffing”
Using the video instructions provided, we install all available electronics.
Step 9: Test Time
Before launching the quadcopter, you need to try out the first flight, which is what we are doing.
Step 10: Launch
We attach and connect the battery to the bottom of the frame and install the quadcopter on an open flat surface. We move away and use the remote control to launch the device and enjoy the flight.
This is how we made a quadcopter using these instructions, although we are not aircraft designers! Don't stop there, and good luck in all your endeavors!
- Tutorial
I have described the entire assembly and configuration process, and below there will be a slightly modified version containing more information from my previous articles.
I’ll leave the question of getting into this hobby out of the question and move directly to the quadcopter.
Choosing a quadcopter size
A year ago, 250-size quadcopters were the most popular. But now pilots prefer to assemble smaller devices, which is very reasonable: the weight is less, but the power is the same. I chose the 180 size not for any practical reasons, but as a kind of assembly challenge.
In fact, this approach to selection is not entirely correct. It is much more reasonable to first choose the size of the propellers, and then, under them, the smallest frame into which the selected propellers will fit. And with this approach, the 180 format is generally rejected. Judge for yourself: the 210 format allows you to install the same 5-inch propellers as the 250, while the quad itself is lighter, and 4-inch propellers fit into 160 frames. It turns out that the 180th size is an intermediate format that is “neither ours nor yours.” It can also be considered a weighted 160. But, nevertheless, I chose him. Perhaps because it minimum size, capable of towing more or less comfortably GoPro camera or Runcam.
Accessories
Let's start with the engines. The “intermediate” size of 180, as well as the richness of their range, makes the choice difficult. On the one hand, you can take what goes on the 160s, on the other hand, what is installed on the 210s or even 250s. You need to start from the propellers and batteries (number of cans). I don't see the point in using a 3S battery, but for the propellers general rules are:
- you need maximum static thrust - increase the propeller diameter and decrease the pitch (within reasonable limits)
- needed high speed- reduce the diameter and increase the pitch (within reasonable limits)
- you need high thrust with a small diameter - add the number of blades (again within reasonable limits, since if the difference between two- and three-bladed propellers is noticeable, then between three- and four-bladed ones it is not so big)
In my case, I have a 4" propeller size limit, but no motor limit. This means that the smartest thing to do would be to use three-bladed 4045 bullnose propellers. They are difficult to balance, but they make the controls more responsive and predictable, and the sound is quieter. On the other hand, with two-blade propellers the speed of the quadcopter is higher, but I definitely don’t need that. “People” use the following setups on 180 frames:
- lightweight with 1306-3100KV motors, conventional 4045 propellers and 850mAh battery
- heavy and powerful for three-bladed bullnose propellers and an action camera with 2205-2600KV motors and 1300mAh battery
In fact, the frame allows you to install motors from 1306-4000KV to 22XX-2700KV. By the way, I don’t know why, but 1806-2300KV motors are now out of favor and little used.
For my quad, I took the motors - RCX H2205 2633KV. Firstly, I wanted to have a power reserve (although with my modest piloting skills, it’s not clear why). Secondly, my setups have never turned out to be super-light, in addition, I also plan to carry an action camera. Specifically, RCX motors are a compromise option. They are cheap, but there are many complaints about the quality. At the time of purchasing the components, these were one of the few 2205-2600KV motors on the market. Now (at the time of writing) the assortment is much larger and it is better to choose something else.
With the rest of the components I acted on the principle of “more challenge”:
Selecting a flight controller
You may have noticed that there is no flight controller on the list. I would like to describe his choice in more detail. Inexpensive building kits often include a CC3D controller, so now this is perhaps the cheapest PC. There is absolutely no point in buying CC3D today. It is outdated and does not have such necessary things as battery control and a beeper. Its successor, CC3D Revolution, is a completely different product with rich capabilities, but also a price of over 40 €.
Modern flight controllers have already switched from F1 to F3 processors, making the Naze32 a last-generation PC and significantly reducing its price. Now this is truly a people's controller, which has almost everything your heart desires for a price starting from 12 €.
Of the new generation PCs, Seriously Pro Racing F3 is the most popular, primarily due to the availability of inexpensive clones. The controller itself is in no way inferior to Naze32, in addition it has a fast F3 processor, large number memory, three UART ports, built-in inverter for S.Bus. It was SPRacingF3 Acro that I chose. Other modern PCs were not considered due to price or some specific features(closed firmware, layout, etc.)
Separately, I would like to note the currently fashionable trend of combining several boards into one. Most often PC and OSD or PC and PDB I do not support this idea with a couple of exceptions. I don't want to have to replace the entire flight controller because the OSD is burned out. Moreover, as practice shows, sometimes such a union brings problems.
Wiring diagram
It is clear that all components that need 5V or 12V power will receive it from the BECs of the power distribution board. The camera could theoretically be powered directly from a 4S battery, since the input voltage allows this, but in no case should this be done. Firstly, all cameras are very susceptible to noise in the circuit from the regulators, which will result in noise in the picture. Secondly, regulators with active braking (such as my LittleBees), when this braking is activated, give a very serious impulse to the on-board network, which can burn the camera. Moreover, the presence of an impulse directly depends on the wear of the battery. The new ones don't have it, but the old ones do. Here's an educational one video on the topic of interference from regulators and how to filter them. So it is better to power the camera either from the BEC or from the video transmitter.
Also, for the sake of improving picture quality, it is recommended to connect not only the signal wire, but also the ground wire from the camera to the OSD. If you twist these wires into a pigtail, the ground acts as a shield for the signal wire. The truth in in this case I didn't do this.
Since we are talking about “ground”, people often argue about whether it is necessary to connect the “ground” from the regulators to the PC or whether one signal wire is enough. On a regular racing quadcopter it definitely needs to be connected. Its absence can lead to synchronization failures ( confirmation).
The final wiring diagram turned out to be simple and concise, but with a couple of nuances:
- power supply of the flight controller (5V) from the PDB via outputs for regulators
- power supply of the radio receiver (5V) from the PC via connector OI_1
- video transmitter power supply (12V) from PDB
- camera power supply (5V) from video transmitter
- OSD connected to UART2. Many people use UART1 for this, but like on Naze32, here this connector is paralleled with USB.
- Vbat is connected to the PC, not to the OSD. In theory, battery voltage (vbat) readings can be read on both the OSD and PC by connecting the battery to either one or the other. What's the difference? In the first case, the readings will be present only on the monitor screen or glasses and the PC will not know anything about them. In the second case, the PC can monitor the battery voltage, inform the pilot about it (for example, with a beeper), and also transmit this data to the OSD, to the “black box” and via telemetry to the remote control. It is also easier to adjust the accuracy of readings via a PC. That is, connecting vbat to the flight controller is much preferable.
Assembly
To begin with, a few general advice for assembly:
- Carbon conducts current. So everything needs to be well insulated so that nothing shorts to the frame anywhere.
- Anything that protrudes beyond the frame is likely to be broken or torn off in an accident. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about connectors. Wires can also be cut by a screw, so they too must be hidden.
- After soldering, it is highly advisable to cover all boards with insulating varnish PLASTIK 71, in several layers. By own experience I will say that applying liquid varnish with a brush is much more convenient than coating with a spray.
- It wouldn’t hurt to drop a little hot melt glue on the places where the wires are soldered to the boards. This will protect the soldering from vibrations.
- For everyone threaded connections It is advisable to use Loctite medium hold (blue).
I prefer to start the assembly with the motors and regulators. good video on assembling a small quadcopter, from which I adopted the idea of \u200b\u200bthe arrangement of motor wires.
Separately, I would like to say about mounting the regulators: where and with what? They can be mounted on the beam and under it. I chose the first option, since it seems to me that in this position the regulator is more protected (these are my speculations, not confirmed by practice). In addition, when mounted on a beam, the regulator is perfectly cooled by air from the propeller. Now let's talk about how to secure the regulator. There are many ways, the most popular is double-sided tape + one or two zip ties. “Cheap and cheerful”, and dismantling will not cause any difficulties. The worse thing is that with such fastening you can damage the regulator board (if you put a tie on it) or the wires (if you fasten it on them). So I decided to mount the regulators heat shrink tube(25mm) and soldered them together with the beams. There is one caveat: the regulator itself must also be in heat shrinkage (mine were sold in it) so that the contacts do not come into contact with the carbon fiber of the beam, otherwise there will be a short circuit.
It also makes sense to glue a piece double sided tape from below on each beam in the place where the motor is mounted. Firstly, it will protect the motor bearing from dust. Secondly, if for some reason one of the bolts comes loose, it will not fall out during the flight and will not be lost.
When assembling the frame, I did not use a single bolt from the kit, since they were all indecently short. Instead, I bought it a little longer and with a head for a Phillips screwdriver (this is a personal preference).
The camera did not fit widthwise between the side plates of the frame. I slightly processed the edges of its board with a file (rather, I sanded off the rough edges) and it stood up without any problems. But the difficulties did not end there. I really liked the quality of the camera holder from Diatone, but the camera with it did not fit into the frame in height (by about 8-10mm). At first I attached a holder to the outer (top) side of the plate through a neoprene damper, but the design turned out to be unreliable. Later came the idea of making it as simple and reliable fastening. I took only a clamp from Diatone's fastening and put it on a piece of rod with M3 thread. To prevent the camera from moving sideways, I secured the clamp with nylon sleeves.
I really liked that the only connectors on the PC I had to solder were the connectors for the regulators. Full-fledged three-pin connectors did not fit in height, so I had to resort to a trick and use two-pin ones. For the first five channels (4 for regulators + 1 “just in case”) I soldered the connectors to the signal pad and ground, for the remaining three - to the plus and ground, so that the PC itself could be powered and from it - backlight. Considering that Chinese clones of flight controllers suffer from unreliable fixation of the USB connector, I soldered that too. Another feature characteristic of the SPRacingF3 clone is the tweeter connector. As in the case of vbat, on the upper side of the board there is a two-pin JST-XH connector, and on the lower side it is duplicated with contact pads. The catch is that the clone has a constant ground on the connector and when using it, the beeper will always be activated. The normal working ground for the tweeter is connected only to the contact pad. This can be easily checked by a tester: the “plus” of the connector is connected to the “plus” on the contact pad, but the “minus” is not connected. Therefore, you need to solder the wires for the “beeper” to the bottom side of the PC.
The three-pin connectors of the regulators also had to be replaced. It was possible to use four two-pin plugs, but instead, I took two four-pin plugs and inserted the “ground” of all regulators into one, and the signal wire into the second (observing the order of connecting the motors).
The backlit plate is wider than the frame and protrudes from the sides. The only place where the propellers won't knock it down is under the frame. I had to do some collective farming: I took long bolts, put nylon couplings with pre-made slots on them (so that the ties securing the lighting could be fixed) and screwed them through the bottom plate into the frame posts. I used zip ties to attach a plate with LEDs to the resulting legs (the holes in the plate fit perfectly) and filled the ties with hot glue. WITH back side plates soldered connectors.
After assembly, at the setup stage, it became clear that something was wrong with the tweeter. Immediately after connecting the battery, it began to squeak monotonously, and if you activated it from the remote control, then this monotonous squeak was superimposed on a rhythmic one. At first I made the mistake on the PC, but after measuring the voltage with a multimeter, it became clear where exactly the problem was. In fact, it was possible from the very beginning to connect a regular LED to the tweeter wires. As a result, I ordered several tweeters at once, listened to them and installed the loudest one.
Often the PDB and controller are attached to the frame with nylon bolts, but I don't trust their strength. So I used 20mm metal bolts and nylon couplings. After installing the PDB, I soldered the power supply to the regulators (the rest of the wires were soldered in advance) and filled the soldering areas with hot glue. Main power wire, going to the battery, I secured it to the frame with a tie so that it would not be torn out in the event of an accident.
I removed all connectors from the receiver with wire cutters, except for the required three, and soldered the jumper between the third and fourth channels directly on the board. As I wrote above, it would be wiser to take a receiver without connectors. I also unwrapped his antennas and heat-shrink them. On the frame, the receiver fits nicely between the PBD and the rear rack. With this arrangement, its indicators are clearly visible and there is access to the bind button.
I secured the video transmitter with zip ties and hot glue to the top plate of the frame so that through the slot there was access to the channel switching button and LED indicators.
There is a special hole in the frame for mounting the video transmitter antenna. But you should not connect it to the transmitter directly. It turns out to be a kind of lever, where one arm is the antenna, the other is the transmitter itself with all the wires, and the place where the connector is attached will be the fulcrum, which will bear the maximum load. Thus, in the event of an accident, with almost 100% probability, the connector on the transmitter board will break off. Therefore, you need to attach the antenna through some kind of adapter or extension cord.
I decided to solder connectors to MinimOSD rather than solder wires directly. They write on the forums that this board often burns out, so it is wise to immediately prepare for a possible replacement. I took a strip with connectors in two rows, soldered the lower ones to the contact pads with holes, and brought vIn and vOut to the upper ones. After that, I filled the solder joints with hot glue and packed the entire board in heat shrink.
The final touch is a sticker with a phone number. It will give at least a little hope in case of loss of the quadcopter.
The assembly has now come to an end. It turned out to be compact and at the same time maintain access to all the necessary controls. You can see more photos
First tests aircraft multicopters appeared back in 1922, but only in the second decade of the 21st century. this type of layout began to gain popularity at an impressive rate. Compared to other radio-controlled models, quadcopters use in great demand, probably because they have a practical purpose: at a minimum, taking beautiful shots from the air.
Following consumer demands, manufacturers are flooding the market with an abundance of models of various configurations with various characteristics. Many buyers prefer RTF (ready-to-fly) kits that can fly into the air after simple calibration.
But not everyone needs the easy way. Particular pleasure can be derived from assembling the quadcopter from scratch on your own. The degree of complexity varies from kits with all the necessary parts for assembly to choosing each component yourself, checking their compatibility, assembling and configuring your own UAV.
It also makes sense to assemble a quadcopter if there are specific application scenarios for which factory models are not adapted. Or build your own flight training apparatus that you won’t mind breaking. Detailed drawing You don’t need it for this; a sketch with all the elements marked is enough.
Basic units and components
In order for the constructed device to be able to take off in the air, at least in theory, and to make assembling a quadcopter with your own hands a pleasure, you need to purchase a number of relevant components:
- The flight controller is the “head” of the future UAV, in which all basic components are installed required sensors, and also software to process their readings, and at the same time commands coming from the control panel, monitoring the rotation speed of each engine. This is the most expensive component you will have to buy to assemble a quadcopter.
- Advanced modellers make the frame themselves from carefully selected materials (aluminum, plastic, wood, carbonate or combinations thereof). If there is a lack of experience or engineering knowledge, if a ready-made frame is more suitable for the project, or if there is neither the desire nor the time to design a quadcopter and its parts yourself, then ready-made frames produced in wide range sizes.
- It is better to choose brushless motors - they are somewhat more expensive, but much more reliable than brushed motors. For flights, rotation at a significant speed is necessary, so the absence of a collector has a positive effect on the service life. Purchase at least 4 (or 8, if you need an octocopter), if the budget allows, then with 1-2 spare ones.
- Motor controllers are boards that regulate the rotation speed of each motor and power it, and will be mounted on the “beams” of the housing. Their number corresponds to the number of engines.
- Propellers or propulsors should be selected with special attention, because the size must match the dimensions of the future frame, regardless of whether it was built independently or purchased.
- The power distribution board is designed to distribute power from the battery to the engine speed controllers. As a rule, each purchased case is equipped with a small board on which you can solder the inputs from all controllers, and then carefully power them. If desired, you can order a more advanced version of the main power board if your quadcopter circuit requires layout features.
- Buying batteries is one of the most difficult moments in selecting spare parts. The type of battery that is suitable depends entirely on intended purpose the created model. For fast models, it is better to take small batteries with high KV (revolutions per minute × Volts), and for low-speed filming devices, the priority is the ratio of capacity and weight, because the structure cannot be overloaded in any case. A useful addition is a battery charge monitor. It will not do without a special balancing charger for the selected battery type (lithium-ion or lithium-polymer).
- A control panel with a receiver module that connects to the flight controller so that the aircraft can be controlled. The type of control panel determines the comfort of control and some other available functions.
- Additional options are selected depending on the purpose of the future device. Thus, camera stabilizers are often attached to drones for filming, and racing ones are impossible without an FPV (first person view) complex.
You will need few tools for assembly - a screwdriver for assembling the frame, a soldering iron and, of course, the skills to work with it.
The disadvantage of the latter can be easily eliminated during the assembly process, fortunately, “aerobatics” of ownership soldering station not needed. And it is better to use soldering irons with a thin tip.
Quadcopter drawings in the full sense of the word do not exist, and they are not needed. Assembly from modules eliminates this need. WITH consumables everything is a little more complicated. To assemble a quadcopter with your own hands you will need:
- Thread locker so that none of the screws can be unscrewed due to flight vibrations.
- Heat shrink insulation for each soldering point.
- Polymer clamps for fixing elements on the body.
- Waterproofing compound for printed circuit boards.
- Banana connectors for motors.
Nothing will prevent you from making the necessary corrections and modifications to the design during assembly or flight testing. Maybe for your purposes it is better to assemble an octocopter with your own hands. With care and caution, even the most technically illiterate drone hobbyist can build a flying drone. Moreover, future flight tests will reveal all the shortcomings, which will be eliminated. The result should be the perfect personal drone. The main thing is to clearly understand the scenario for its application.
Build process
There are many options for the layout and design of multicopters, but the most common are models with four propellers. Therefore, the assembly of such a quadcopter will serve as an example for step-by-step review assembly process. In the process, you can rely on approximate drawings of quadcopters from the network or compiled by yourself.
1: Build the frame
Regardless of size or purpose, each drone must have a frame, frame, and supporting base. Assembly finished frames should not cause difficulties due to the fact that they are supplied detailed instructions and all necessary fasteners.
And to assemble the frame yourself, you will have to show your design skills. A self-made quadcopter frame made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or wood should be strong enough. For example, the thickness of the wooden parts of a self-made frame must be at least 30 mm. Assembling your quadcopter on a frame that is not strong enough is a waste of effort, because it will often break.
In any case, the output should be a given number of beams of the same length, which are carried by motors and attached to the central supporting plate. Landing supports or “legs” are also installed on it. In some configurations, the legs “grow” from under the engines. It all depends on the features dictated by the drawing of the quadcopter and its frame.
2: Install the power unit and propellers
Engines, their controllers and propellers play a key role in speed, maneuverability and other flight characteristics. Therefore, you should choose products from brands that work closely in the quadcopter industry, rather than someone who ended up in this market segment by accident.
Motors for one project must be of the same model from the same manufacturer.
Yes, the movement occurs due to the difference in the speed of their rotation, but it must be strictly controlled. A motley crew of engines would upset the balance. They are attached with screws to the outer ends of the “beams”.
After the engines, speed controllers are placed on the plane of their supports and secured with ties. The connection of the controllers to the motors, as well as to the distribution board, is carried out by direct soldering and connectors. If desired and on a budget, you can use a 4-in-1 controller, but then the layout of the quadcopter will change slightly. The result is an almost finished copter, which only lacks a flight controller.
3: Installing the “brains”
The flight controller is typically mounted on the top of the aircraft frame, above the power distribution board and battery compartment. The layout can be changed, but it is worth remembering that the lower the center of gravity, the more stable the device.
To minimize the effect of vibrations on the operation of the flight controller, its mounting pad is often mounted on rubber spacers or more sophisticated vibration damping systems are used. At the design stage it is good opportunity show off your engineering ingenuity without causing irreparable damage to the entire structure.
Only after the controller is installed can the remaining components and modules be placed: the receiver from the control panel, GPS sensor, magnetic compass, camera, gimbal, etc.
And only place it on the body; connection is permissible only after the initial calibration of the flight controller.
Different manufacturers produce different controllers, remote controls and other components. Therefore, their calibration is a complex and variable process worthy of separate consideration.