Homemade galvanized motor boat. Homemade boat made of wood and galvanized iron. Sheet iron boat

So, in this article, as promised earlier, I will describe the process of building a new boat. I must say right away that this time I did not make the boat “with my bare hands.”

For recent years(after I retired from the Armed Forces and changed my nomadic lifestyle to a sedentary one) I got a good workshop, which has a woodworking machine and many other power tools: a jigsaw, milling machine for wood, a screwdriver, two electric drills, emery, etc.

Like last time, before getting down to business, I still early spring I walked along the shore of Kubena, taking a closer look at the boats that stood there waiting for navigation. There are a lot of boats on the banks, but they are all basically made in the same manner - the sides are rounded at the bottom. This is understandable.Every craftsman has patterns for such boats, and making another boat using a template is not very difficult for them. And at the competitions of boat masters, which are held in Ustye annually, mostly all the same type of boats are presented.

There were punt boats with a completely flat bottom. It is, of course, very simple to make such a boat, but it is very clumsy when underway.

I wanted to make a boat whose bottom would resemble the bottom of the Kazanka. Suchthere were no boats on the banks.

Several years ago I liked one boat, the kind I wanted to make, but in the spring I couldn’t find it on the shore.

It turned out that the owner was putting the boat away for the winter and it appeared only when navigation had already opened. Here it is, this boat, in the photo on the right. The boat is already old, but very light when running.I liked the lines of the boat themselves, as well as the way the frames were made. They were made up of small segments slats, which were fastened together with galvanized iron corners for strength. The edges of the corners were bent so that the fastening was very strong.

The only thing I didn’t like was that the bow of the boat was not pointed, but blunt, about 30 cm wide. It’s clear why the master made the bow of the boat just like that - it’s much simpler. But this significantly increases the drag of the water, so I decided to make the bow of my boat sharp. Secondly, only the bottom of this boat was metal. It was nailed to the sides made of a wide board 25 mm thick. After some time, the board cracked and the owner constantly had to putty it. Well, and thirdly, the stringers were made of multiple bars, which greatly weakened the frame of the boat.

I decided to make the sides from galvanized iron, although I had no experience as a tinsmith. On one of the forums dedicated to the construction of boats and yachts, I read that without such experience it is better not to mess with metal, but to build a boat from plywood. I’ll try to make a boat out of plywood some other time, but now, since I’ve decided to build from galvanized steel, there’s nowhere to go. Moreover, I had 4 sheets of galvanized iron 0.75 mm thick.

By this time, other material needed for the boat had also been prepared. At the sawmill I ordered 2 wide unedged 6-meter boards and 2 edged boards 150 mm wide and 25 mm thick. The rest of the material, as before, was collected from firewood - I bought a wood slab (I later sawed it and planed boards for the fence), as well as various scraps of lumber, which are also sold to the population for firewood. Some of the scraps were about 1.5 meters long and 50 mm thick. The scraps were pine and spruce, just what I needed to build the boat.

The construction of the boat began by sawing and cutting out the frame parts. A central block 60 mm wide and 40 mm thick and two bars for the bottom (stringers) measuring 3.5x3.5 cm were cut out on a circular saw from a slab and passed through an electric jointer.

Then I made a frame for the stern. To do this, I planed 1000x100x45 bars, drew the contours of the stern on a piece of press cardboard and cut the bars to size. I decided to make the stern width 95 cm, 5 cm narrower than that of my neighbor’s boat. And the angle of inclination of the sides was left the same - 5 degrees. The height of the stern is 48 cm. To hang the motor and sail on the transom, I made a recess 20 cm wide and 5 cm deep. The stern was immediately lined with galvanized iron from the outside, and the parts were fastened with small strips of the same iron on the inside of the boat.

The most difficult part was making the frames. I have five of them on my boat. If there were ready-made drawings or at least dimensions, then there wouldn’t be any special problems. And since I made the boat according to my own understanding, without any drawings, so as not to make a mistake in the dimensions, I immediately placed the stern on the central beam. Having previously cut out the recesses along the lower edges, I nailed and pressed the side bars - stringers - with clamps.

Then a stem was installed on the central block in front - a block measuring 500x100x50.

For better fastening, I made a notch in the stem as shown in the figure.

I tied the front ends of the stringers together with strong twine, leaving the stem between them. I did not immediately begin to nail them to the stem in order to be able to give the bending shape I needed. By placing several spacers between the stringers and the central beam, moving them back and forth, I bent the stringers along the intended contour of the bottom of the boat. To make this easier, while the material was drying, I began to bend these bars, placing their ends on two tables and tying a two-pound weight at a distance of about 1/3 from their front part. When I achieved the desired bend shape, I sharpened the front ends of the stringers and nailed them to the stem.

From the short 40x120 bars, I chose the appropriate length for the lower part of the frames and sawed them off to the length of the spacers. In the center of each block I made cuts for the central beam. Placed the blanks for the frames in place of the spacers, aligning their upper parts with top part side beams. Applying a sheet of galvanized iron to the edge of the central beam and to the side beam, I drew cutting lines on each frame blank. I cut out the lower parts of the frames with a circular saw, as shown in the figure. I again placed them in their places and fastened them with nails to the side beams.

I used a plane to trim the stringers so that their lower plane was a continuation of the lower part of the frames.

After this, I began preparing the side parts of the frames. I cut 10 identical blanks from planed 40x80 bars. I didn't want the boat to be very wide at the top, so the angle of the side frames is only 5 degrees. The peculiarity of assembling the frames of my boat is that they were assembled right on site. In order to assemble each frame on site, 20 corners with cutouts for the stringers were cut from galvanized iron.

In order not to make a mistake in their installation, I attached fender bars to the transom and stem with clamps - planed slats measuring 385x45x20 mm, having previously positioned the side bars of the 1st, 3rd and 5th frames on each side (every other). Then, focusing on the bend of the fender bars, I positioned and secured it using metal corners to the lower parts are the side bars of the 2nd and 4th frames. With a pencil, I marked on each block and on the transom the places for cuts under the fender block. Since the transom was already upholstered with galvanized iron, it was necessary to cut through the metal as well. I should have foreseen this in advance, then I wouldn’t have had to clean everything up with a file. (It was no longer possible to get there with a grinder.)

After everything
the frames were assembled and cuts were made in them in the upper part, fender bars were nailed to the transom and to the frames with l=50 nails. Having made a bevel in the front part, I fastened them with nails and to the stem.

Thus the frame of the boat was prepared. All that remained was to cover it with galvanization, but first I covered the entire frame with Oxol drying oil in three layers.

It was difficult to carry out further work alone, so my son came to my aid for 4 days.

Together we marked and cut metal sheets. To avoid distortions and bubbles when joining sheets of metal, we first made a pattern from roofing felt, which we placed on the frame of the boat, marked it, cut out the required piece with simple scissors, made the necessary cuts for bends and again laid it on the frame of the boat to make sure that everything done right. Only after this the pattern was transferred to a sheet of metal and cut out the required part sheathing.

The work requires great precision and it is very difficult to cope with it alone.

The blanks were bent on scraps of bars using a rubber mallet.

First, the sides were sheathed. Each board is assembled from 3 blanks. There were no problems with the two back sheets, since they rectangular shape. Made with a punch
holes and, having lubricated the wooden parts of the frame with silicone neutral sealant "Moment", nailed the iron to them with nails. The instructions for the sealant say that it is also used in shipbuilding. Moreover, they chose a neutral one, since an acidic sealant can corrode iron. It was applied by squeezing it out of the tube using a special gun. The sealant hardens quite quickly and perfectly bonds metal to wood. For testing, I stapled wooden block with a sheet of metal and after a day I could no longer tear them apart with both hands. The front sheets of iron were bent to the shape of the stem.

The bottom of the boat is assembled from 4 pieces. The joints of the sheets were made on the central beam and on the frames. Each joint was carefully coated with sealant, all joints of metal sheets were fastened with L=4 nails, driving the nails in two rows at a distance of 2.5 cm from each other. The nails in the rows were not driven opposite each other, but just so that the nails of one row were in the middle of the gap between the nails of the second row. The connection of the parts turned out to be very reliable.

The top edge of the boat side sheathing sheet is made along the upper edge of the fender, so from inside the boat the edge of the iron sheet is not visible (it is hidden under the fender). On the outside of the side, side boards 150 mm wide were installed on the fender. One end of the board is attached to the transom, and the other to the stem. 25x40 mm slats were nailed to the top edge of the board along the entire length from the inside of the boat, which increased the rigidity of the sides. The same slats were first installed along the outer edge of the side, but then they were abandoned, since the side was already sufficiently rigid.

The fastening of the transom to the sides was reinforced with two triangles cut from a wooden block 50 mm thick, which were screwed onto self-tapping screws. In the same way, the fastening of the transom with the central beam was strengthened. Considering that the transom is also attached to the side boards, and simply to the metal sheets of the side, and to the bottom, the fastening is quite enough to withstand the loads from the Veterok-8 motor I have and from the sail.

A keel was made from a board 8 cm wide and 25 mm thick along the entire bottom of the boat. Inner side The keel was planed with a plane with a semicircular blade, so the keel fits tightly to the bottom of the boat.

The boat was almost ready. All that remained was to make and strengthen the rowlocks, make the oars, benches (banks), sleds and start painting. I did all the other work alone.

I decided to make the oarlocks so that the oar could be easily installed or removed. It is difficult to insert a hinged type oarlock, which is attached to the oar, into the hole on the board with one hand. But when fishing, it often happens that you have to do this with just one hand, since the other is busy with the spinning rod. So on my boat the rowlock is a simple metal rod mounted in a wooden pad. The oars have holes for this rod. Such oarlocks worked very well on an old boat. The second reason for installing just such rowlocks is the small height of the sides of the boat. By installing a cushion with a metal rod, I actually raised the fulcrum of the oar above the side by as much as 12 cm. I secured the cushions to the sides by making cutouts in them for the fender bars and for the slats running along the upper edge of the sides of the boat. In order for the rowlock pads to fit tightly into place, I first made a template, which I then used to mark the dimensions of the cuts in the pads.

I made the pillows for the rowlocks in one piece from a 100x60 block. Using a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, I drilled a 180 mm recess from the upper end, into which I hammered pieces of a metal rod with a diameter of 12.5 mm. and length 250 mm. I secured the cushions with self-tapping screws to the fender beam, the side board of the boat and to one of the frames. The fastening turned out to be very durable.

I chose the place for attaching the rowlocks by first placing the boards prepared for making cans in the intended places. I rearranged them several times, trying to find the most best option. It was difficult to determine the center of gravity of the boat by eye, so I placed a wooden block under the keel of the boat and, moving it from the bow of the boat to the stern, I found the center of gravity. In order for the bow of the boat to be slightly raised when rowing, I shifted the rowlocks and the canopy on which the rower should sit from the center of gravity towards the stern. I measured the distance from the edge of this can to the rowlocks in my old boat, since I later made the oars according to the size of the old oars. I got used to them, it was very convenient for me to row with them. This distance was equal to the length of the arm from the tips of the fingers to the elbow. That's exactly what I did on the new boat. And, as it turned out later, I was not mistaken. A circle with a diameter of 5 cm cut out of a green plastic canister was placed on the rod in order to reduce the friction of the oar on the oarlock pad.

The oars themselves were made from slabs. First, I drew the outlines and cut out the blanks with a chainsaw, and then used a plane and a chisel to plan the oars and make holes for the oarlocks. I painted the oars, leaving only the handles unpainted. They were simply covered with water stain to match the oak color. The handles will be polished by your palms over time. And holding hands on unpainted wood is much more pleasant.

The benches (banks) were planed from 25 mm thick boards. Under my weight they sag a little, but there is no need to install a thicker board, since the boards are wide and will never break.

Slani (4 pieces) was made on the same level with the frames of the boat in the form of a lattice flooring made of 15 mm thick clapboard. I adjusted the supports for the sling paneling to the bottom of the boat. The front two slides are long, since you won’t have to take them out often, and the two back ones are short, so that it’s easier to get out when you have to scoop out water. The boat does not leak at all, but water will still get in from the rains, so there will be water under the sleds. In order for it to flow to the stern in each frame, I made two small holes in its lower part - cuts. Such cuts are also available in the sled stands. Just raise the bow of the boat a little or just go to the stern, and the water will flow to the stern, where it can be easily scooped out.

In the bow of the boat, after drilling through the stem, I installed a bolt for fastening the chain. The chain was passed through the hole in the very first can, leaving only a ring at the top for hanging the lock. This, it seems to me, is very convenient, since the chain itself is retracted to the bottom of the boat, and, if necessary, can be easily pulled out by the ring.

The most difficult thing for me, oddly enough, was painting the boat. Experience painting work I practically didn’t have any. I don’t know how, and I don’t like to paint. Even painting window frame, the floor on the veranda or the fence never arouses my enthusiasm.

However, we had to paint and then repaint a lot.

First, I painted the metal parts of the boat with red lead - an oil paint. But, as it turned out, red lead does not stick to galvanized iron. While the paint was drying everything was fine. The paint went on evenly, the color at the bottom turned out beautiful, dark brown.

But when the paint dried, it turned out that as soon as you touched it with anything, it simply peeled off in whole layers. I had to take this paint off. The good thing is that it wasn't difficult to do. I read on the Internet that it is better to coat the metal with enamel, after priming it with a special primer. Primed with primer GF-201 gray, and when it had dried well, I coated it with PF-115 enamel. Since I couldn’t find the color I needed in the store, I had to mix green and gray enamel. The enamel adhered well to the primer, but when struck by metal

objects immediately leave scratches on the paint. Already during the competition I learned from experienced craftsmen what is the best way to coat galvanized iron? special paint ANTI-CORROSITE-C or special acrylic paint by galvanizing, having previously aged, i.e. allowing the iron sheet to oxidize for a year. Next year I will try to repaint the bottom and sides of the boat with this paint.

The wooden parts of the boat were painted with bright green nitro enamel NTs-132, and the camouflage spots on the already dried nitro enamel were painted with black and green enamel PF-115 of a different shade. I tried to do the opposite without reading the instructions (it was written very small on the can), and it turned out that the nitro enamel “eats” the plain enamel when applied to it. I had to peel off two slats that literally peeled off the paint before my eyes when PF-115 applied stains to the enamel with nitro enamel. I scraped it off with a scraper, cleaned it with sandpaper and repainted it again. It’s not for nothing that they say: “You learn from mistakes” and “InJust learn while you're at it!" Now at least I've learned to understand a little about paints.

And now about the costs of building a boat:

Galvanized iron - 4 sheets for 420 rubles. per sheet = 1680 rub. (I didn’t buy them, they were left over from roof repairs).

Lumber - edged and unedged boards - about 1000 rubles (I don’t know the exact price, since at the same time I also paid for birch boards for wood carving). In addition, wood trimmings were purchased for about another 800 rubles, most of which will be used for stove heating. Of these, materials worth 200-300 rubles were selected.

Sealant - 7 tubes for 181 rub. = 1261 rub.

Paint (including re-painting) - 6 cans of 0.8 kg each. at prices from 60 to 120 rubles. for a total amount of approximately 600 rubles.

Technical characteristics and dimensions of the boat:

Maximum length - 3.7 m

Side height - 0.48 m

Maximum width - 1.2 m
Minimum side height - 0.38 m
Passenger capacity - 3 people.
Load capacity 323 kg.
All this is recorded in the ship’s ticket, which I received when registering the boat at the State Inspectorate for Civil Inspections. All that remains is to write the numbers on the sides.
Well, but overall the boat turned out to be quite good. In terms of speed and lightness under the oars, it is, of course, slightly inferior to a carbasque boat, but it is much more stable afloat. Now I can fish with a spinning rod on my boat without fear of turning upside down.

Right under the windows of the house there is now a whole flotilla of three of my boats.

IN next year, if everything works out as planned, then I will definitely build another boat and will definitely describe the construction process.

What this boat will be like is still a secret.

Let me add that the boat sails very well under Antero Katainen’s outboard sail. Read the article on how to install and use it. "Sail on a homemade boat."

So, in this article, I will describe the process of building a new boat. I must say right away that this time I did not make the boat “with my bare hands.”

In recent years (after I retired from the Armed Forces and changed my nomadic lifestyle to a sedentary one), I have acquired a good workshop, which has a woodworking machine and many other power tools: a jigsaw, a wood milling machine, a screwdriver, two electric drills, emery, etc.

Like the last time, before getting down to business, in early spring I walked along the shore of Kubena, taking a closer look at the boats that stood there awaiting navigation. There are a lot of boats on the banks, but they are all basically made in the same manner - the sides are rounded at the bottom. This is understandable.Every craftsman has patterns for such boats, and making another boat using a template is not very difficult for them. And at the competitions of boat masters, which are held in Ustye annually, mostly all the same type of boats are presented.

There were punt boats with a completely flat bottom. It is, of course, very simple to make such a boat, but it is very clumsy when underway.

I wanted to make a boat whose bottom would resemble the bottom of the Kazanka. Suchthere were no boats on the banks.

Several years ago I liked one boat, the kind I wanted to make, but in the spring I couldn’t find it on the shore.

It turned out that the owner was putting the boat away for the winter and it appeared only when navigation had already opened. Here it is, this boat, in the photo on the right. The boat is already old, but very light when running.I liked the lines of the boat themselves, as well as the way the frames were made. They were made up of small segments slats, which were fastened together with galvanized iron corners for strength. The edges of the corners were bent so that the fastening was very strong.

The only thing I didn’t like was that the bow of the boat was not pointed, but blunt, about 30 cm wide. It’s clear why the master made the bow of the boat just like that - it’s much simpler. But this significantly increases the drag of the water, so I decided to make the bow of my boat sharp. Secondly, only the bottom of this boat was metal. It was nailed to the sides made of a wide board 25 mm thick. After some time, the board cracked and the owner constantly had to putty it. Well, and thirdly, the stringers were made of multiple bars, which greatly weakened the frame of the boat.

I decided to make the sides from galvanized iron, although I had no experience as a tinsmith. On one of the forums dedicated to the construction of boats and yachts, I read that without such experience it is better not to mess with metal, but to build a boat from plywood. I’ll try to make a boat out of plywood some other time, but now, since I’ve decided to build from galvanized steel, there’s nowhere to go. Moreover, I had 4 sheets of galvanized iron 0.75 mm thick.

By this time, other material needed for the boat had also been prepared. At the sawmill I ordered 2 wide unedged 6-meter boards and 2 edged boards 150 mm wide and 25 mm thick. The rest of the material, as before, was collected from firewood - I bought a wood slab (I later sawed it and planed boards for the fence), as well as various scraps of lumber, which are also sold to the population for firewood. Some of the scraps were about 1.5 meters long and 50 mm thick. The scraps were pine and spruce, just what I needed to build the boat.

The construction of the boat began by sawing and cutting out the frame parts. A central block 60 mm wide and 40 mm thick and two bars for the bottom (stringers) measuring 3.5x3.5 cm were cut out on a circular saw from a slab and passed through an electric jointer.

Then I made a frame for the stern. To do this, I planed 1000x100x45 bars, drew the contours of the stern on a piece of press cardboard and cut the bars to size. I decided to make the stern width 95 cm, 5 cm narrower than that of my neighbor’s boat. And the angle of inclination of the sides was left the same - 5 degrees. The height of the stern is 48 cm. To hang the motor and sail on the transom, I made a recess 20 cm wide and 5 cm deep. The stern was immediately lined with galvanized iron from the outside, and the parts were fastened with small strips of the same iron on the inside of the boat.

The most difficult part was making the frames. I have five of them on my boat. If there were ready-made drawings or at least dimensions, then there wouldn’t be any special problems. And since I made the boat according to my own understanding, without any drawings, so as not to make a mistake in the dimensions, I immediately placed the stern on the central beam. Having previously cut out the recesses along the lower edges, I nailed and pressed the side bars - stringers - with clamps.

Then a stem was installed on the central block in front - a block measuring 500x100x50.

For better fastening, I made a notch in the stem as shown in the figure.

I tied the front ends of the stringers together with strong twine, leaving the stem between them. I did not immediately begin to nail them to the stem in order to be able to give the bending shape I needed. By placing several spacers between the stringers and the central beam, moving them back and forth, I bent the stringers along the intended contour of the bottom of the boat. To make this easier, while the material was drying, I began to bend these bars, placing their ends on two tables and tying a two-pound weight at a distance of about 1/3 from their front part. When I achieved the desired bend shape, I sharpened the front ends of the stringers and nailed them to the stem.

From the short 40x120 bars, I chose the appropriate length for the lower part of the frames and sawed them off to the length of the spacers. In the center of each block I made cuts for the central beam. I placed the blanks for the frames in place of the spacers, aligning their upper parts with the upper part of the side beams. Applying a sheet of galvanized iron to the edge of the central beam and to the side beam, I drew cutting lines on each frame blank. I cut out the lower parts of the frames with a circular saw, as shown in the figure. I again placed them in their places and fastened them with nails to the side beams.

I used a plane to trim the stringers so that their lower plane was a continuation of the lower part of the frames.

After this, I began preparing the side parts of the frames. I cut 10 identical blanks from planed 40x80 bars. I didn't want the boat to be very wide at the top, so the angle of the side frames is only 5 degrees. The peculiarity of assembling the frames of my boat is that they were assembled right on site. In order to assemble each frame on site, 20 corners with cutouts for the stringers were cut from galvanized iron.

In order not to make a mistake in their installation, I attached fender bars to the transom and stem with clamps - planed slats measuring 385x45x20 mm, having previously positioned the side bars of the 1st, 3rd and 5th frames on each side (every other). Then, focusing on the bend of the fender bars, I positioned and secured the side bars of the 2nd and 4th frames to the lower parts using metal corners. With a pencil, I marked on each block and on the transom the places for cuts under the fender block. Since the transom was already upholstered with galvanized iron, it was necessary to cut through the metal as well. I should have foreseen this in advance, then I wouldn’t have had to clean everything up with a file. (It was no longer possible to get there with a grinder.)

After everything
the frames were assembled and cuts were made in them in the upper part, fender bars were nailed to the transom and to the frames with l=50 nails. Having made a bevel in the front part, I fastened them with nails and to the stem.

Thus the frame of the boat was prepared. All that remained was to cover it with galvanization, but first I covered the entire frame with Oxol drying oil in three layers.

It was difficult to carry out further work alone, so my son came to my aid for 4 days.

Together we marked and cut out the metal sheets. To avoid distortions and bubbles when joining sheets of metal, we first made a pattern from roofing felt, which we placed on the frame of the boat, marked it, cut out the required piece with simple scissors, made the necessary cuts for bends and again laid it on the frame of the boat to make sure that everything done right. Only after this the pattern was transferred to a sheet of metal and the required trim piece was cut out.

The work requires great precision and it is very difficult to cope with it alone.

The blanks were bent on scraps of bars using a rubber mallet.

First, the sides were sheathed. Each board is assembled from 3 blanks. There were no problems with the two back sheets, since they are rectangular in shape. Made with a punch
holes and, having lubricated the wooden parts of the frame with silicone neutral sealant "Moment", nailed the iron to them with nails. The instructions for the sealant say that it is also used in shipbuilding. Moreover, they chose a neutral one, since an acidic sealant can corrode iron. It was applied by squeezing it out of the tube using a special gun. The sealant hardens quite quickly and perfectly bonds metal to wood. As a test, I fastened a wooden block with a sheet of metal and after a day I could no longer tear them apart with both hands. The front sheets of iron were bent to the shape of the stem.

The bottom of the boat is assembled from 4 pieces. The joints of the sheets were made on the central beam and on the frames. Each joint was carefully coated with sealant, all joints of metal sheets were fastened with L=4 nails, driving the nails in two rows at a distance of 2.5 cm from each other. The nails in the rows were not driven opposite each other, but just so that the nails of one row were in the middle of the gap between the nails of the second row. The connection of the parts turned out to be very reliable.

The top edge of the boat side sheathing sheet is made along the upper edge of the fender, so from inside the boat the edge of the iron sheet is not visible (it is hidden under the fender). On the outside of the side, side boards 150 mm wide were installed on the fender. One end of the board is attached to the transom, and the other to the stem. 25x40 mm slats were nailed to the top edge of the board along the entire length from the inside of the boat, which increased the rigidity of the sides. The same slats were first installed along the outer edge of the side, but then they were abandoned, since the side was already sufficiently rigid.

The fastening of the transom to the sides was reinforced with two triangles cut from a wooden block 50 mm thick, which were screwed onto self-tapping screws. In the same way, the fastening of the transom with the central beam was strengthened. Considering that the transom is also attached to the side boards, and simply to the metal sheets of the side, and to the bottom, the fastening is quite enough to withstand the loads from the Veterok-8 motor I have and from the sail.

A keel was made from a board 8 cm wide and 25 mm thick along the entire bottom of the boat. The inside of the keel was planed with a plane with a semicircular blade, so the keel fits tightly to the bottom of the boat.

The boat was almost ready. All that remained was to make and strengthen the rowlocks, make the oars, benches (banks), sleds and start painting. I did all the other work alone.

I decided to make the oarlocks so that the oar could be easily installed or removed. It is difficult to insert a hinged type oarlock, which is attached to the oar, into the hole on the board with one hand. But when fishing, it often happens that you have to do this with just one hand, since the other is busy with the spinning rod. So on my boat the rowlock is a simple metal rod mounted in a wooden pad. The oars have holes for this rod. Such oarlocks worked very well on an old boat. The second reason for installing just such rowlocks is the small height of the sides of the boat. By installing a cushion with a metal rod, I actually raised the fulcrum of the oar above the side by as much as 12 cm. I secured the cushions to the sides by making cutouts in them for the fender bars and for the slats running along the upper edge of the sides of the boat. In order for the rowlock pads to fit tightly into place, I first made a template, which I then used to mark the dimensions of the cuts in the pads.

I made the pillows for the rowlocks in one piece from a 100x60 block. Using a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, I drilled a 180 mm recess from the upper end, into which I hammered pieces of a metal rod with a diameter of 12.5 mm. and length 250 mm. I secured the cushions with self-tapping screws to the fender beam, the side board of the boat and to one of the frames. The fastening turned out to be very durable.

I chose the place for attaching the rowlocks by first placing the boards prepared for making cans in the intended places. I rearranged them several times, trying to find the best option. It was difficult to determine the center of gravity of the boat by eye, so I placed a wooden block under the keel of the boat and, moving it from the bow of the boat to the stern, I found the center of gravity. In order for the bow of the boat to be slightly raised when rowing, I shifted the rowlocks and the canopy on which the rower should sit from the center of gravity towards the stern. I measured the distance from the edge of this can to the rowlocks in my old boat, since I later made the oars according to the size of the old oars. I got used to them, it was very convenient for me to row with them. This distance was equal to the length of the arm from the fingertips to the elbow. That's exactly what I did on the new boat. And, as it turned out later, I was not mistaken. A circle with a diameter of 5 cm cut out of a green plastic canister was placed on the rod in order to reduce the friction of the oar on the oarlock cushion.

The oars themselves were made from slabs. First, I drew the outlines and cut out the blanks with a chainsaw, and then used a plane and a chisel to plan the oars and make holes for the oarlocks. I painted the oars, leaving only the handles unpainted. They were simply covered with water stain to match the oak color. The handles will be polished by your palms over time. And holding hands on unpainted wood is much more pleasant.

The benches (banks) were planed from 25 mm thick boards. Under my weight they sag a little, but there is no need to install a thicker board, since the boards are wide and will never break.

Slani (4 pieces) was made on the same level with the frames of the boat in the form of a lattice flooring made of 15 mm thick clapboard. I adjusted the supports for the sling paneling to the bottom of the boat. The front two slides are long, since you won’t have to take them out often, and the two back ones are short, so that it’s easier to get out when you have to scoop out water. The boat does not leak at all, but water will still get in from the rains, so there will be water under the sleds. In order for it to flow to the stern in each frame, I made two small holes in its lower part - cuts. Such cuts are also available in the sled stands. Just raise the bow of the boat a little or just go to the stern, and the water will flow to the stern, where it can be easily scooped out.

In the bow of the boat, after drilling through the stem, I installed a bolt for fastening the chain. The chain was passed through the hole in the very first can, leaving only a ring at the top for hanging the lock. This, it seems to me, is very convenient, since the chain itself is retracted to the bottom of the boat, and, if necessary, can be easily pulled out by the ring.

The most difficult thing for me, oddly enough, was painting the boat. I had practically no experience in painting work. I don’t know how, and I don’t like to paint. Even painting a window frame, veranda floor or fence never excites me.

However, we had to paint and then repaint a lot.

First, I painted the metal parts of the boat with red lead - an oil paint. But, as it turned out, red lead does not stick to galvanized iron. While the paint was drying everything was fine. The paint went on evenly, the color at the bottom turned out beautiful, dark brown.

But when the paint dried, it turned out that as soon as you touched it with anything, it simply peeled off in whole layers. I had to take this paint off. It's good that it wasn't difficult to do. I read on the Internet that it is better to coat the metal with enamel, after priming it with a special primer. I primed it with gray GF-201 primer, and when it dried well, I coated it with PF-115 enamel. Since I couldn’t find the color I needed in the store, I had to mix green and gray enamel. The enamel adhered well to the primer, but when struck by metal

objects immediately leave scratches on the paint. Already during the competition, I learned from experienced craftsmen that it is best to coat galvanized iron with special ANTI-CORROSITE-C paint or special acrylic paint for galvanizing, having previously aged it, i.e. allowing the iron sheet to oxidize for a year. Next year I will try to repaint the bottom and sides of the boat with this paint.

The wooden parts of the boat were painted with bright green nitro enamel NTs-132, and the camouflage spots on the already dried nitro enamel were painted with black and green enamel PF-115 of a different shade. I tried to do the opposite without reading the instructions (it was written very small on the can), and it turned out that the nitro enamel “eats” the plain enamel when applied to it. I had to peel off two slats that literally peeled off the paint before my eyes when PF-115 applied stains to the enamel with nitro enamel. I scraped it off with a scraper, cleaned it with sandpaper and repainted it again. It’s not for nothing that they say: “You learn from mistakes” and “InJust learn while you're at it!" Now at least I've learned to understand a little about paints.

And now about the costs of building a boat:

Galvanized iron - 4 sheets for 420 rubles. per sheet = 1680 rub. (I didn’t buy them, they were left over from roof repairs).

Lumber - edged and unedged boards - about 1000 rubles (I don’t know the exact price, since at the same time I also paid for birch boards for wood carving). In addition, wood trimmings were purchased for about another 800 rubles, most of which will be used for stove heating. Of these, materials worth 200-300 rubles were selected.

Sealant - 7 tubes for 181 rub. = 1261 rub.

Paint (including re-painting) - 6 cans of 0.8 kg each. at prices from 60 to 120 rubles. for a total amount of approximately 600 rubles.

Technical characteristics and dimensions of the boat:

Maximum length - 3.7 m

Side height - 0.48 m

Maximum width - 1.2 m
Minimum side height - 0.38 m
Passenger capacity - 3 people.
Load capacity 323 kg.
All this is recorded in the ship’s ticket, which I received when registering the boat at the State Inspectorate for Civil Inspections. All that remains is to write the numbers on the sides.
Well, but overall the boat turned out to be quite good. In terms of speed and lightness under the oars, it is, of course, slightly inferior to a carbasque boat, but it is much more stable afloat. Now I can fish with a spinning rod on my boat without fear of turning upside down.

Right under the windows of the house there is now a whole flotilla of three of my boats.

Next year, if everything goes as planned, I will definitely build another boat and will definitely describe the construction process.

What this boat will be like is still a secret.

Let me add that the boat sails very well under Antero Katainen’s outboard sail. Read the article on how to install and use it. ".

Hunting and fishing are a favorite pastime of many men. Sitting with a fishing rod early in the morning in the reeds is a special romance for a fisherman.

Vehicles for fishing, and just for walking, are used in different ways - rubber, aluminum, PVC boats and even plywood.

You can buy absolutely any watercraft, if only you had the money, but how can you make a boat with your own hands? We'll tell you in our article.

Plywood boat

A homemade plywood boat is very light, easy to use and much cheaper than in a store.

The most important preparatory point in construction is the boat drawings. Having accurate calculations, in the future you will not have to waste time and effort on remaking and adjusting the product.

Calculations

We offer you one of the payment options. By transferring the drawings to paper, we will receive templates for all the necessary parts of the boat in life size. Now we can “cut out” our product and cut out the blanks with a jigsaw. Once you have all the cut out parts, you can start gluing.

First of all, we connect the load-bearing structural elements, the transom (cut of the aft part) and the frames (transverse rib of the hull). Then the bottom and sides are attached to the transom, as in the photo of the boat.

Use epoxy resin and fiberglass tape to connect all parts. These materials will not only connect all parts of the structure, but will also create a waterproof seam.

Assembling the boat

Having secured the plywood to the side structures, you can proceed to strengthening the angles between the sides and the bottom. They do this using wooden corners, then move on to sealing the seams.

To obtain suture material, epoxy resin and Aerosil are mixed in equal proportions. Next, the seams are not just lubricated, but filled with this composition.

Once the entire structure has dried, you can attach the seats. If the boat has a motor, we attach the transom and bow cover.

The outer part of the boat also needs processing; it is necessary to glue all the external seams, also using resin and fiberglass tape, and sand the surface after drying. Then prime and paint.

Repairing damage to a PVC inflatable boat

If you already have inflatable boat and you actively use it, then moments of leakage probably often occur due to a puncture or cut in the material of the vehicle. Restoring a PVC boat is not at all difficult; it is easy to do in spartan conditions and even on the water.

Of course, to get a better result, you need to have time and do better repairs in a workshop. When fixing a leak, the glue dries, ideally, for 3 days, although there is nothing to worry about if you use the boat within a day.

If the boat was repaired on the water, upon return it is necessary to redo everything, since a patch glued hastily and without proper technology will not last long.

If a puncture occurs while fishing or hunting, use only the repair kit included with the boat.

Boat overhaul

For overhaul boats you need:

• Repair kit (included with the boat);
• Scissors;
• Roller;
• Pencil;
• Solvent promoting degreasing;
• Brush for adhesive.

Cut out a rounded patch from spare fabric. It should be 4-5 cm larger than the cut.

Pay attention!

Spread the area to be repaired on a flat surface, clean it from dirt and degrease it with a solvent. Place the patch over the hole and trace with a pencil, coat both surfaces with PVC glue and let dry.

After 15-20 minutes, repeat the procedure and again give time to dry. After 5 minutes, the restoration itself can begin. Touch the surface of the patch with your finger; it should stick slightly.

Then, to activate the adhesive surface, you need to heat the patch itself and the puncture site; a hairdryer is ideal for this, just act quickly so that the glue does not dry out.

Now you can apply the surfaces to each other with the adhesive side, and carefully expel all the air, iron the patch with a roller. Then leave it to dry for at least one day.

In conclusion of our article, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot on buying or repairing a boat. With some effort, you can enjoy what you love.

Pay attention!

DIY boat photo

Pay attention!

Buying a wooden boat is a rather expensive process that requires considerable investment. But its manufacture opens up to the creator a variety of options, shapes and style solutions in which the boat will be made; in addition, he will be able to save a little. Wooden boat made with your own hands will be an excellent addition to fishing, hunting and just relaxing on the water. Let's look at how to build a wooden boat below.

Main types of boats

There are several types of materials suitable for building a boat. Among them:

• rubber-based fabric;
• plastic components;

• steel;
• tree;
• plywood.

Inflatable boats are also called fabric boats. For their manufacture, rubber or polymer compounds are used. They are unstable and do not float well on water. They crack easily and are not resistant to cold and frost. They require constant patching and are very dangerous because they get damaged at the most inopportune moment. The advantages of this type of boat are ease of transportation, compactness and ease of storage.

Plastic boats are primarily distinguished by their attractive appearance; they are produced in a wide variety of color scheme. In addition, if used correctly plastic boats they will serve their owner for decades.

Wooden boats made from planks are less durable than plastic ones. In addition, they require ongoing care in the form of applying moisture-repellent solutions. Some owners of wooden boats soak the device in water before using it to keep it in shape.

Wooden boats photo:

Plywood boats are the best option among wooden boats. Plywood is moisture resistant, resistant to heavy loads, strong and durable. The only drawback of plywood is the difficulty in bending it, so such boats do not have smooth lines, but are characterized by the presence of sharp corners.

For the manufacture of metal boats, duralumin is used, which has the properties of strength and resistance to wear. Possible use case stainless steel for making a boat, but in this case, its transportation becomes impossible due to the enormous weight.

Homemade wooden boats: manufacturing features

There are special ones for drawing drawings of wooden boats. online programs, helping to calculate the dimensions of an individual part. With the help of a 3D designer, every detail of the boat is visible from all angles.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the equipment options for the boat of the following sizes:

• the lower length of the bow and stern is 200 and 850 cm, the upper length is 500 and 1120 mm, the height is 150, 185 mm;
• dimensions of reinforcing ribs: 1st - bottom height, top and length - 830 mm, 510 mm, 295 mm;
• the bead must be cut at an angle; to calculate it, it is better to use a calculator.

Advice: Before you start making a boat, study additional literature related to the number of main parts of the boat and their names.

This boat is made of plywood, when purchasing which be sure to pay attention to moisture resistance. Such plywood will last several times longer and will not require additional costs for its repair and maintenance.

To make the bottom, use plywood with a thickness of 1.2 cm, and for the sides and other parts - 0.8 or 1 cm.

After purchasing the plywood, start making boat parts. To do this, you need to prepare special patterns. They are made on large sheets paper, for example, on wallpaper. The shape of the pattern exactly matches the shape of the part.

Use an electric jigsaw to cut out the parts. Since the dimensions of the plywood do not allow constructing the entire bottom of the boat, it is necessary to resort to gluing it together from several parts. To do this, use EDP glue or any other glue solution, which is resistant to moisture. The gluing procedure is carried out using overlays in the form of plywood strips, 10 cm long.

Birch beams are used to glue the internal stiffeners together. They are located inside the boat and have a certain angle of inclination. In some versions of the construction of a wooden boat, solid saddle beams are used, for gluing which two side parts are connected to a flat bench. This design allows to significantly reduce internal filling boats, and also increases the buoyancy property, even if the boat capsizes.

For those new to boat building main problem is the connection of several parts to each other, especially if it occurs under different angular inclinations. The most in a simple way is the so-called “stitching and gluing” method. In this case, the parts are connected to each other using wire made of steel or strong nylon thread. Before this, special holes are drilled in the edges of the parts; their diameter should not exceed four millimeters, and their location from the edge of the boat should not be more than five millimeters. When the body is connected using threads, it is time for the next process, which includes gluing all joints using fiberglass. It is fixed to the surface by impregnation with moisture-resistant glue or epoxy resin. It is recommended to carry out gluing both inside the boat and on its outer part.

Start assembling the boat hull from the side sections, which include the side, bow and stern. First, drill holes in relation to the indicated values, making sure that the drilling step is even. Tie these parts together using thread or wire. Follow relative position details and evenness of all corner connections. Self-tapping screws will help secure the stiffeners, and fiberglass provides them additional fastening. Make sure that no air bubbles form under the fiberglass; if there are any, take care to remove them.

The bottom is attached to the body in the same way. It is necessary to glue mooring beams along the top of the sides. Its main function is to protect the boat from mechanical damage during its mooring at the pier or shore.

As mandatory element The boat's keel protrudes. He is responsible for the safe entry of the vessel into turns and for the stability of its side parts. Its fixation occurs along the central part of the bottom, and is installed along its central line.

To make a central keel, use not one, but a set of several slats. By additionally gluing parts into the bow or rear of the boat, its strength and stability increases.

We recommend that you take care of strengthening the transom - the rear part of the stern. After securing the main parts of the boat, it is recommended to open it with special impregnations. After they dry, proceed to testing the vessel. Transport the boat to a river or reservoir and lower it into the water; if there are no leaks, it is ready for use. It is also recommended to check the amount of cargo that it can transport. When all problems have been corrected, paint the boat using oil paints. Painting must be done in several layers.

DIY wooden boat: manufacturing instructions

Using ordinary plywood and skillful hands it will be possible to build good boat. Average cost Such a boat costs about $20-30, which is significantly lower than purchasing alternative boats made of rubber or wood.

To make a boat of this type you will need:

• several sheets of plywood;
• polyurethane glue;
• nails;
• latex-based paints;
• silicone sealant;
• a syringe to help seal seams;
• sandpaper;
• jigsaw;
• paracord;
• clamp;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• drills;
• brushes for applying paint.

After preparing everyone necessary tools The process of preparing individual parts follows. To do this, the plywood sheet must be divided into three sections, which will act as the bottom and main parts. The first section is 460x610 mm, the second is 310x610 mm, the third is 610x1680 mm.

Two side panels are made in the size of 310x2440 mm. Use bars as supports small size 25x50x2400 mm. Required quantity supports - 3 pcs. To make the bow, it is recommended to use a block measuring 25x76x2400 mm. To build the body, the use of two bars 25x50x2400 mm is required. They are cut into several parts and fastened with paracord.

When all the parts are cut, proceed to self-assembly wooden boat. To carry out this process, the presence of nails and pins is necessary. Instructions for assembling a wooden boat with your own hands:

• installing the bottom and attaching the left side to it;
• fixing the stern on the left side and connecting to the bottom;
• attaching the right side to the bottom and stern;
• fixation of the nasal area.

Before fixing the boat with nails, first assemble it with glue. Code appearance boat to the satisfaction of its manufacturer, secure the joints with nails.

Next comes the painting and polishing stage. finished product. After assembling the boat, begin polishing it to remove small roughness and irregularities. To do this you will need sandpaper or some grinder. Using silicone sealant, it is necessary to seal all the cracks formed during the assembly process. Leave the boat in an open area until it is completely dry. After a day, start painting the boat. Apply the first layer to the outer surface, and the second to the inner surface. After the paint has dried, you need to apply another layer inside the boat.

Now you should check the device during the swim. If there are minor defects, they need to be eliminated.

Wooden punt boat: main stages of manufacturing

Before studying the instructions for making wooden punt boats, let’s get acquainted with their advantages:

• minimal construction costs;
• light weight, which greatly simplifies its transportation;
• compactness - it will easily fit in the garage for the winter, and even in the trunk of a car during transportation;
• does not require special finishing or maintenance;
• easy to make with your own hands.

When choosing the length of the boat, you should take into account the number of people and cargo that will be located on it, the interval between optimal values The length of a punt ranges from 1.8 to 3.8 m. At the same time, the width of such a boat varies from 1 to 1.5 m. The average height of the sides is half a meter. The weight of the boat depends on its size and is about 70 kg. The boat comfortably accommodates from one to four people.

Possible option additional installation motor or sails that can simplify boat control. Let's look at how to make a wooden boat further.

1. The first stage of working on a boat is the selection of material for its construction.

To build a punt, you need two types of plywood:

• plywood with increased moisture resistance characteristics, the thickness of such material reaches two centimeters, this type of plywood is based on the use of an adhesive base, please note that it contains harmful substances, therefore it is not recommended to use it in residential premises; as an alternative, we recommend purchasing multilayer laminated plywood, it is safer for health;
• five-layer aviation plywood - has light weight, but is highly durable; seats and transom are made from it.

Exists certain rules working with the material that underlies the construction of the punt, namely:

• to cut the material into parts, use a disk plate;
• if the thickness of the plywood does not exceed one centimeter, a stationery knife is enough to cut it;

• with a thickness of two to six centimeters, the best option is to use a jigsaw;
• It is not recommended to cut plywood across the grain, as there is a risk of cracks; if necessary, in this type of cutting, apply weakening strips top layer veneer;
• when arranging popular types of wooden boats, the parts are connected to each other using wire, self-tapping screws or epoxy resin; when fixing using self-tapping screws, you cannot drive them into the surface of the plywood, as this will damage it; it is recommended to first drill a hole of the appropriate diameter, and then install a self-tapping screw;
• if it is necessary to arrange a boat with curved shapes, you need to wet the plywood, bend it into the desired position and fix it until it dries completely, the duration of the procedure is about 15 hours;
• In the process of gluing parts, pay attention to the glue packaging, it indicates general recommendations on its drying and work rules, which include cleaning, degreasing and treating the surface with glue;
• pay attention to the arrangement of fibers on the surface of two plywood parts; when they are parallel, the reliability of fastening increases several times;
• when plywood delaminates during the work, it is recommended to glue it; for this, a paper sheet soaked in glue is placed between the delaminated layers; such plywood is not suitable for building a boat, since it is defective.

2. The next stage involves choosing optimal tool for carrying out work. It will help to cut the material electric saw or jigsaw. Using an electric planer you can make the required bevel angle. Allowed to use any electrical or mechanical tools for grinding. Using a screwdriver, install self-tapping screws and make holes for them.

3. The most optimal place work on the boat floor, as large details won't fit on the table. Place the plywood sheet on the floor surface and transfer the pieces onto the surface using a square.

Tip: To significantly save material, you should make a preliminary sketch of the boat on paper. Experts recommend, if possible, building an exact copy of the boat from cardboard in order to have an idea of ​​its original appearance.

There will be two options for making the boat. The first involves installing vertical sides that have straight lines. Second - classic version- this is the installation of sides, a little narrowed in nature. To make them, you will need to do some embedding. To do this, it is recommended to use an electric plane. Walk it over the surface of the parts once. Next, repeat the procedure using any grinding tool. If there are rods or other jumpers in the fender that increase rigidity, they are cut out at this stage.

Tip: To make assembly easier, use plastic cable ties. They become almost invisible after final finishing boats epoxy resin.

When the frame is assembled, proceed to connecting the bottom. Its fixation is carried out with clamps or the same metal wire. Please note that the bottom must be properly sealed; for this it is filled with resin. If you use fiberglass lining, leaks cannot be avoided.

When all joints are dry, proceed to the next treatment. It includes sanding the seams. Next, the joints are covered with fiberglass coated with epoxy resin. The outer part is glued twice, and the inner part once.

4. Installation of additional components.

If it is necessary to install a sail, the vessel must be additionally strengthened, thereby increasing its stability. It is better to do this with the help of a centerboard. to make it you will need plywood 0.6 cm thick. In addition, the steering wheel is cut from this plywood. The number of centerboards depends on the size of the boat. The best option is to install two centerboards at the outermost parts of the vessel. The rudder is attached to the boat with several hinges, preferably of a non-removable nature.