Almost everyone loves the fragrant, tasty and healthy raspberry, so this one grows on every summer cottage. valuable crop. Very popular among gardeners remontant varieties, capable of bearing fruit on both annual and biennial shoots. Due to this delicious berries can be collected throughout the season. For a bountiful harvest, you need to know and follow all the rules for planting and caring for remontant raspberries .
Landing Features
Remontant varieties in open ground can be planted as early spring, and in the fall. Beginning gardeners are interested in the question of which month should they plant raspberries. It is better to do this from mid-September to early October, preparing the area for planting in spring or summer. The timing of planting may vary depending on the climate of the region. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that seedlings before the onset of frost must have time to settle down, for which they will need about a month.
The advantages of planting remontant raspberries in the fall include:
- Autumn air humidity has a beneficial effect on the survival rate of seedlings.
- In spring, roots develop more slowly than shoots, so they do not have time to provide the plant with nutrients.
- Over the summer you can independently and without any problems prepare the required number of cuttings with horses.
- Enough time to prepare the seat.
Site selection and preparation
For good growth and fruiting raspberries are necessary well-lit, windless areas. Remontant varieties do not like stagnation of water in the soil, so the place should be dry. If the sunny area is in a lowland, then you can add more soil.
To ensure that plants are exposed to diseases and pests as little as possible, it is necessary observe crop rotation.
To do this, raspberries are planted after green manure crops, which are dug into the soil in August. But it's best if seat was under black steam. You can only plant crops in beds where raspberries, tomatoes, potatoes or peppers grew after three years.
The soil should be fertile sandy loam or loamy. When digging soil for each square meter 10 kg of humus, 15 grams of superphosphate and 25 grams of potassium sulfate are added to the beds. If the seedlings are planted in trenches, then for each meter of length of the planting hole you need to add 5 kg of rotted manure, a liter of wood ash and a tablespoon of superphosphate with potassium sulfate. Before planting, the bed must be dug up again.
Raspberry planting scheme
There are two ways to plant remontant varieties:
- The tape method involves planting seedlings in trenches, the distance between which should be from one and a half to two meters. The distance between the plants themselves should be 40−50 cm.
- Bush or pitting method best suited for autumn planting. In this case, holes are prepared for the seedlings approximately 40 cm deep and no more than 60 cm wide. The distance between plants should be about one meter, and between rows - one and a half meters.
During planting, the roots of the seedling must be straightened different sides, fall asleep fertile soil and water. The root collar should be at ground level. It is recommended to mulch the area around the plants using dry straw, leaves or manure. This procedure will retain moisture in the soil and will protect the roots from the penetration of cold.
Immediately after landing experienced gardeners It is recommended to install trellises near the bushes. These are posts with wire, to which in the spring you can quickly and easily tie growing shoots. The columns are spaced at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other. Galvanized wire is tied between them at different heights from the ground. The bottom row of wire should be at a height of 30 cm, the middle - about 100 cm, and the top - 150 cm. bottom row In the fall, annual shoots will be tied up.
Despite the fact that the culture does not like stagnation in the soil, it should be watered regularly and abundantly. If it rains regularly in the summer, then on average the plants can be watered once a week. In hot and dry weather, watering should be more frequent. It is especially important to monitor soil moisture during budding and fruit formation. In autumn, shrubs need to be watered abundantly so that the plants are saturated with moisture before wintering.
The soil around the bushes should be regularly cleared of weeds and loosened. It is better to do this after rain or watering.
Feeding
It is recommended to feed remontant varieties in the spring. But if during planting the seedlings all the necessary fertilizers, then the plants do not need to be fed for two years.
Raspberries love both organic and mineral fertilizers. If the soil is sprinkled with mulch in the form of humus or humus in the fall or spring, then other organic fertilizers you don't have to enter it.
In early spring, plants definitely need mineral fertilizers, for which you can use nitroammophoska. Apply from 50 to 100 g per square meter of bed mineral supplements. They must contain potassium, without which the leaves become small, turn yellow and die. Potash fertilizers must not contain chlorine.
Pruning remontant varieties
If regular raspberries are not pruned in the fall, then remontant raspberries must be pruned both in spring and autumn. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, during which damaged shoots are removed. They are pruned to a healthy bud. In autumn, the pruning procedure depends on whether the crop is grown for one or two harvests:
- For one harvest. This method involves ripening the berries from August until frost. To receive bountiful harvest, in the fall it is necessary to cut off all the shoots on the bushes. This should be done as late as possible, preferably after the onset of frost. After early pruning, young shoots will begin to grow, which will freeze during frosts, which will negatively affect the future harvest. After pruning the shoots down to the ground in the spring, each bush will produce a lot of new growth, of which three or four strong, healthy shoots should be left.
- For two harvests. This method involves picking berries in June and September. Pruning is carried out in two stages. For the first time after the first harvest, fruit-bearing shoots are cut out. The remaining young branches will begin to develop quickly and new berries will ripen on their tops by autumn. In the fall, when the berry picking is over, the dried tops on which there were fruits are cut off from the shoots. With this method of growing remontant varieties, the plantings are thickened, so the plants are most susceptible to various diseases and pest attacks.
Many gardeners prefer to grow raspberries for one harvest, during which more fruits can be harvested in more than two harvests per season.
How to plant raspberries in the fall
After about five years, the raspberries begins to deplete and no longer produces a bountiful harvest, so it is recommended to transplant the plants to a new location. It is best to do replanting in the fall, so that the bushes take root and rest over the winter.
In the period from mid-September to mid-October, the bushes must be dug up, viable, healthy, young shoots must be selected, and weak and thin shoots must be removed. Old bushes can be thrown in, as they will no longer bear fruit well. And the selected strong young shoots are planted in a new place in the same way as when planting seedlings.
If it is not possible to move the raspberry tree to a new place, but it is already necessary to rejuvenate it, then the old rhizome can simply be cut down with a shovel. The remaining roots will soon begin to grow young shoots, from which a new bush will be formed.
Preparing for winter
If raspberries were planted or transplanted in the fall, they must be prepared for winter. IN northern regions and in central Russia, bushes need to be covered, otherwise they may freeze. Usually, remontant raspberries are resistant to frost, but if there is little rainfall in winter, the roots of the plants freeze. Therefore, the raspberry plant requires autumn preparation To winter cold. To do this you need:
- Clear the area of old mulch and plant debris that needs to be burned.
- If there is no rain, water the plantings.
- After rain or watering, carefully loosen the soil.
- Cover the soil around the plants with spruce branches, dry leaves or peat.
- Bend long shoots and tie them to the bottom wire of the trellis.
- In areas with cold winters, cover raspberries or other non-woven material.
Living in southern regions Gardeners do not need to cover the raspberries, but it is necessary to clean, water, loosen and mulch the soil.
Reproduction methods
You can propagate remontant raspberries green cuttings, horse suckers or cuttings.
Green cuttings
Cuttings are carried out at the end of spring. Annual shoots that have grown to a height of 3-4 cm are used. They are cut off from the roots of the main plant, dug up along with a lump of earth and transplanted to a new place. Before planting, it is recommended to treat the cuttings with crushed coal.
The planting hole should have a volume equal to the volume of the roots. For better rooting, cuttings are planted under film at a distance of 5 cm from each other. The distance between rows should be about 10 cm. Plantings are covered from straight lines sun rays and watered regularly. When the bushes take root, they begin to harden off, for which the film is removed. grown up and accustomed to open air plants transplanted to a permanent bed.
Root cuttings
Raspberries should be propagated by cuttings in the fall, for which a root with a diameter of at least two centimeters is selected and dug up. Each cutting should have a length of eight to twelve centimeters. A furrow is dug for them, into which the cuttings are laid in rows and covered with earth. The plantings are watered and sprinkled with mulch, which will protect them from frost. In spring and summer next year The cuttings must be watered regularly, the soil around them must be loosened and treated to remove weeds. In autumn, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent bed.
Root suckers
Only some remontant varieties produce root shoots, which can be used for reproduction. The shoots should be dug up after they reach a height of five to ten centimeters. Temporary beds are prepared for it, on which it is necessary not to large size holes. The planted shoots are watered and shaded from direct sunlight. The soil around them must be covered with mulch, which will protect the soil from drying out and prevent weeds from growing. The shoots are regularly watered and transplanted to a permanent place in the fall.
Proper planting and care of remontant raspberries will be a guarantee good harvest delicious and healthy berries that you can enjoy throughout the season.
Traditionally grown on summer cottages delicious and healthy berry The raspberries have already yielded their harvest. Winter is approaching, and gardeners are faced with the question of how to prepare raspberries for winter. Proper preparation- the key to getting a good harvest in the future, so it’s worth the effort. Undoubtedly, you need to know how to care for raspberries in the fall. One of the most important stages Rejuvenation and increased productivity of raspberry bushes is their autumn pruning.
Why should you prune raspberries?
Before answering the question of how to prepare raspberries for winter, we will define the stages of work. This includes pruning, fertilizing, removing leaves and bending stems. Pruning a bush has several purposes. Firstly, all old, diseased and unnecessary branches are removed. Secondly, proper pruning will help to significantly increase future harvest and the shoots will survive the coming cold. Thirdly, thinning the bushes has a good effect on the quality of the berries; in well-groomed plantings they are much larger than in neglected areas. Raspberries are prepared for winter in September or early October. Dates autumn work important. Reducing the air temperature to negative values will not allow all stages to be carried out efficiently, so you should not wait for persistent cold weather.
Pruning technology: what you need to know
When thinking about how to prepare raspberries for winter, you should remember that each stem must be cut to the very root. Even small stumps should not be left: insect pests penetrate and multiply. Two-year-old stems that have served their purpose must be pruned. It is easy to distinguish them - as a rule, they are dry and dark, stand out appearance against the background of young, greenish shades of branches. They also remove broken, weak, diseased shoots that grow incorrectly inside the bush and young unnecessary shoots.
After pruning, 5-7 strong, viable and healthy stems are left in the raspberry bush. When planting in rows, you should not leave more than 10 shoots for each meter of bed length. Significant thinning of bushes - better preparation raspberries for winter, ensuring successful anticipation of the cold weather.
Freeing raspberries from pests
When pruning, you must carefully inspect all shoots. Pests often overwinter and develop in raspberry stems. For example, the crimson gall midge, common in many regions of Russia, lays eggs in the stem, causing irreparable damage to it. The affected branches are clearly identified visually - characteristic swellings appear on them, tearing top layer bark. All cut stems should be burned. If this is not done, the pests will overwinter well and again settle in the raspberries, significantly reducing the yield.
Double trimming
Double pruning of the bush helps increase raspberry yields. This is a labor-intensive but effective technique. It consists of pruning the tops of stems that have reached a meter in height by 20-25 cm in autumn and early spring. This method stimulates the development of lateral shoots, which, in turn, also branch, forming new lateral stems with flower buds. As a result, a fan of strong lateral branches is formed on several main shoots, which not only helps to increase the productivity of the bush, but also greatly simplifies its care and harvesting. With this method of growing raspberries, large intervals should be made between bushes - 60-70 cm minimum. Preparing raspberries for winter with this growing method is of great importance: skip autumn pruning it is forbidden. It should be noted that this method is not suitable for remontant raspberry varieties. Gardeners who specialize in growing such species recommend cutting off the bushes completely for the winter.
How to prepare raspberries for winter?
You should take care of proper wintering of berry bushes in the summer. Carrying out necessary fertilizing, must be adhered to established standards and under no circumstances overfeed raspberries. It is excessive fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers that reduces the frost resistance of the bush. The area where raspberries are grown plays a special role. It should be well lit; sunlight makes the shoots strong enough and able to withstand the winter. After pruning, organic fertilizers must be applied to the bushes ( humus is better) and dig up the soil layer. If the bed has been mulched, it is necessary to remove the mulch - in winter, field mice may live in it.
Raspberries: care in autumn
Pruning is the main, but not the only stage in preparing a bush for winter. Raspberries are usually quite frost-resistant, but extreme cold can destroy them. flower buds. To prevent this from happening, gardeners successfully use a method such as bending the bushes to the ground. That's what it's for. Snow cover has always been considered the best shelter for bushes and trees. Therefore, a raspberry bush located in close proximity to the ground is covered with snow even before the arrival of severe frosts. Average height snow cover in central Russia reaches 50-60 cm, which means that a bush bent at a distance of less than half a meter from the ground will overwinter without loss.
It is important to remember that you need to bend the raspberry shoots so that they are completely under the snow. The stems must not be allowed to remain above the snow cover; this is the most dangerous and coldest zone, because the air temperature is the lowest near the snow. If raspberry bushes are planted on trellises, they are bent one to the other, secured to the bottom wire or pinned to the ground with metal hooks. This should be done before stable negative average daily temperatures set in. In such conditions, the stems become fragile, and it will not be possible to bend them without breaking them.
Before bending the stems to the ground, you need to remove the foliage from them, since the remaining leaves get wet and begin to rot, which can cause bud burns. Removing foliage from the stem is simple: with your hand in a mitten, you need to loosely grasp the shoot and draw it from the bottom up to the top. This will allow you to get rid of the leaves and not break off the flower buds.
That's all you need to know about how to prepare raspberries for winter. All that remains is to wait out the winter and in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, carefully release the stems bent to the ground. There is no need to rush things, you should let the bushes straighten and accept the required form and after some time, cut out the stems that could not survive the frost, withered or broke.
Unlike ordinary remontant raspberries, Middle lane Russia bears fruit from July until mid-October, when the first frosts arrive. The result is a much more abundant harvest. The berries are large, with good taste and aroma.
Soil preparation
Work on preparing raspberries for winter should begin with fertilizing the soil. Manure containing large number nitrogen should be stopped at the end of June ( nitrogen fertilizers reduce the frost resistance of plants when applied in autumn).
IN last days July should be mulched.
To better strengthen the stems in autumn period in August they begin to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (superphosphate, monopotassium phosphate, potassium magnesium, ferrous sulfate). The final feeding is carried out at the end of October.
Watering of remontant raspberries is carried out almost before the onset of the first frost (stopped about 2 weeks in advance, based on the forecast of weather forecasters). It is worth noting that in Central Russia remontant raspberries usually have enough natural precipitation and additional watering is only relevant in dry weather.
Final watering must be done in any case. It will protect the roots from drying out. You should pour 2-3 buckets of water under the bush. Immediately after this, the raspberries are mulched with sawdust, fallen leaves, spruce spruce branches or peat with a layer of about 6 cm. It makes no sense to fill it thicker, as this can lead to damping off of the roots during winter thaws.
Trimming
I have two opinions about pruning remontant raspberries. Last year we completed it according to all the canons, just before the arrival of frost - at the end of October. As a result, this season the ripening of the first berries was delayed by a month. But a lot of new shoots have appeared, the raspberries have grown greatly and the harvest of berries is very good - they are all large in size when ripe, tasty and beautiful (noticeably elongated). The neighbors who see our raspberry garden from the window are kindly envious, as they repeatedly reported in the conversation.
Damaged, old and diseased shoots should be pruned first. After pruning, each bush should have at least 10 of the healthiest stems.
If raspberries, how nasty weed, quickly spreads throughout the surrounding space, it is also necessary to trim the roots. This is done using a well-sharpened bayonet shovel at a distance of 30 cm from each bush (you can trim the roots only on the desired side of the outer bushes).
If you want to renew an old, unproductive raspberry, simply remove the old stem in the center of the bush. This will encourage the plant to produce new shoots next season.
All cut stems and plant debris must be burned, as bacteria, fungi and insects can overwinter in them. Don’t forget to also dig up the bushes and remove all weeds along with the roots.
Bending Raspberries
Some summer residents on the forum advise bending raspberry shoots to the ground before the onset of frost and securing them there with metal staples or wire. There is no need to additionally mulch the laid branches. The “work” of thermal insulation will be completely taken over by the fallen snow.
It is advisable to clear the stems of leaves from bent branches so that they do not provoke rotting during prolonged winter thaws.
In the spring, immediately after the arrival of warmth, the bushes are freed from the braces. They will level out on their own in the future. Branches broken during the winter and frostbitten are removed in the spring.
» Raspberry
Raspberries are rightfully considered tasty and healthy garden plant. Therefore, it is present in the garden plots of many summer residents. In ordinary raspberry varieties, the appearance of fruits on young shoots occurs only in the second year. Compared to others garden bushes or trees, it’s fast, but breeders have been able to speed up this process even more, for example, varieties of remontant raspberries, the peculiarities of growing which can be found below.
Remontant raspberry includes many selectively bred varieties, the shoots of which bear fruit in the first year. Its content allows you to get more yield than from ordinary or wild varieties. Why?
At the beginning of spring, remontant raspberries send out shoots from the roots, which develop rapidly and produce an abundant amount of fruit in the same season. After they mature, upper part the branches dry out, and the lower branches become woody. The next season, these last year's bushes produce fresh shoots and bring a new harvest.
In one season, two crops are harvested, but for this to happen, you need proper care, namely, pick the first fruits in time so that they do not deplete the bush. Despite these advantages, remontant raspberries do not reproduce as quickly as regular ones. I would like to note for beginning gardeners that if you grow several bushes on your plot, it will take years for them to grow naturally into a large plantation. Although this can be useful, because it eliminates the inconvenience when shoots spread beyond the designated area.
The most popular varieties Remontant raspberries are considered:
- penguin;
- golden autumn;
- Hercules;
- rhinoceros;
- Polana;
- ruby necklace, etc.
Rules for planting on a personal plot, soil preparation
For high yield need to provide raspberries a large number sunlight. That's why The planting area must be on open place away from trees and buildings, which create a permanent shadow. For remontant varieties, watering is important, so you need to choose a place where it is convenient to deliver water. Direct planting can be done both in spring and autumn.
It is believed that a more abundant harvest in the first year is obtained when autumn landing bushes This should be done at the end of September and beginning of October, before the start of morning frosts.
Raspberries can be planted in the immediate vicinity of bodies of water, but groundwater must be deeper than 1 m from the surface. The best soil is loam, although bushes can grow in almost any soil, especially if you provide them required quantity fertilizers It’s good when mustard or rye grew on the plot in front of the raspberries. If the predecessors were potatoes, peppers or tomatoes, then you must add fertilizer when planting.
To facilitate site preparation, you can apply fertilizer not in planting pits, but just around the entire perimeter. To do this, for each square meter of area you need to add 2 buckets of humus and a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. After this, the soil is dug up or processed using mechanized methods.
When the place is prepared, you need to dig holes with a depth of root collar seedling. The distance between bushes should be 50-100 cm, and between rows 120 cm. Each plant needs to be watered with 5 liters of water. When the liquid is completely absorbed into the soil, the ground can be mulched. If planting occurs in the spring, then it would be a good idea to soak the roots of the seedlings for a day in water with a growth stimulator, which will serve as an additional guarantee of high survival rate.
Proper care in summer: watering, fertilizing and harvesting
Since remontant raspberries actively bear fruit, they are in dire need of moisture. For this In summer it should be watered periodically. This should be done once a week. The soil under the bushes should always be moist. In dry times, the frequency of watering can be increased. Unlike other plants that only require moisture short time During the period of fruit formation, raspberries need it constantly. This is due to its peculiarity of ripening two harvests per season. With proper watering, the second harvest will be only slightly worse than the first.
Raspberries need constant watering The soil surface should be loosened and weeds removed. In the first year after planting, many seeds are stored on the site wild plants, which will compete with raspberries. They need to be weeded periodically to prevent overgrowth. With proper care over several seasons, the raspberries will grow and fill all the space between the rows. Then maintenance will become a little easier, since she herself will not allow the development of weeds.
If the variety chosen for planting is tall and has thin branches, then it will sag under the weight of the fruit. To avoid this, you can dig or hammer pillars or poles in rows with raspberries at a distance of 2-3 m from each other. Between them, at several levels, a rope, wire or twine is stretched. The bottom support should be 50 cm from the ground, and the next ones 50 cm higher.
It is recommended to tie up raspberry bushes to avoid spoilage of the berries.
In this way it will be possible to tie several bushes between each pair of posts. If this is not done, then during fruiting the branches will fall to the ground and the fruits will begin to spoil. This will be inevitable, because the distance between the bushes, until the raspberries have grown, is very large and they do not hold each other.
From the third season, the soil in the area with raspberries becomes poorer, so it needs fertilizing. This is best done with organic fertilizers. To do this, you can dilute chicken manure at the rate of 1 kg per 20 liters of water. Liquid fertilizer 4 liters per square meter are applied. m. Such replenishment is necessary 2-3 times per season.
How to prune bushes in spring and autumn?
Pruning can be done twice a year. The first time in the spring, before flowering, and the second late autumn. This is done according to the following scheme. It is recommended to trim bushes at a distance of 3 cm from the ground in late autumn. The resulting tops should be burned. This approach gets rid of pests that have prepared to spend the winter on the branches and will give impetus to the rapid development of young shoots in the spring.
In the fall, you can prune remontant raspberries like regular varieties, when only the tops of the bushes are removed. This will allow you to get young shoots and two-year-old shoots for the next season, which will extend the ripening time of the fruits.
Spring pruning involves removing dry parts of bushes that have not survived the winter. u. This sanitary pruning is done until the first healthy bud. The easiest time to carry it out is in April, when the plant begins to actively resume its vital functions. Then you can immediately see which buds are healthy and which have shrunk. Sanitary pruning at this time does not take much time, but you should not delay the beginning, because if you start work when the first leaves appear, you can damage them.
In spring, planting density is controlled. It is necessary to remove excess shoots in such a way that for 1 sq. there were 10-15 of them left. If this is not done, the plants will compete with each other, and their fruits will become small and less sweet. If in the fall all the bushes were cut off at the root, then in the spring all that remains is to thin out the young shoots a little if there are too many of them.
You can propagate remontant raspberries in several ways:
- plant root suckers;
- root cuttings;
- green cuttings.
Root suckers
Growing bushes from root suckers is not possible with all varieties, since some of them have a weak underground part. The method is to dig up the root shoots that appear on the bushes at the age of several years. One plant can produce several offspring around itself, the number of which ranges from a few to two dozen.
The shoots grow next to the mother bush, so they will soon compete with it, but if you dig them up and plant them in a new place, you can get more benefits. To do this, when they reach 5-10 cm, they can be dug up and planted. After they take root, they will begin to grow rapidly and bring the first harvest the very next season.
Root cuttings
Propagation by root cuttings is that the root is dug up in the fall healthy plant and is divided into pieces of 2-4 cm. The resulting cuttings are planted in one row to a depth of 6-8 cm and watered. In the spring they will sprout seedlings that will need to be watered until the fall. At the end of August, they will turn into full-fledged seedlings, and they can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Conventional cuttings
Propagation by green cuttings too effective way. It lies in the fact that at the beginning of summer, young shoots are separated from the mother bush with a small root. To do this, just go a few centimeters into the ground and cut off a branch. After this, it is planted in the ground and actively watered. For maximum efficiency, cut green shoots can be soaked in a growth stimulator. In addition, if they are planted in a greenhouse, the survival rate will also increase.
Thus, it is safe to say that Growing and caring for remontant raspberries is quite simple. You will have to put in the most time and effort in the first year, but when the root system gains strength, the worries will decrease. The pruning process also does not require special skills, and if you completely cut off the bushes in the fall, then in early spring you can practically not devote time to the plants.
Raspberries are a frequent guest of any garden plot. A cough or other cold and we reach for a jar of raspberry jam - a couple of spoons in a glass, pour boiling water over it, and drink. Are you sweating? This means we got up without signs of a cold and without using harmful chemicals in the form of medicines.
But in order to always have a raspberry harvest, you need to know how to care for it in the fall, how to prepare it for winter.
Preparing raspberries for winter consists of applying the final fertilizing for this year, removing fruit-bearing branches (or trimming the tops of remontant raspberries if they are green and not ripe), moisture-replenishing watering, preventive treatments from diseases and pests, cleaning the bite area and tilling the soil (usually loosening to a shallow depth), shelter (if necessary).
Raspberries do not need large doses of fertilizers, especially if the area where they grow has loose, nutritious soil, moderately moist, breathable and moisture-permeable, without retention of melt and rain water. You should not feed plants that were planted this year, that is, in the spring, because when planting in the planting hole you must add nutrient soil, and even in the fall (if you planned to plant raspberries in the spring) they also enriched the soil additional food.
If your case is not of this order, then you will have to take care of applying fertilizers. Please note that fertilizers must be applied in such a way that they do not acidify the soil, but rather deoxidize it. For example, why is it bad dolomite flour(300 g per square meter) or wood ash, which also contains 250 g of potassium per square meter - it can deoxidize even acidic soil a little. But of course, if the pH, that is, the acid-base balance of the soil in the area, is below 5.0, then you cannot do without adding lime; you need 200 g per square meter.
In addition to a good harvest, fertilizing will be prepared root system with one-year-old shoots by winter, and next year they will bring excellent harvest Raspberries respond quite well to organic fertilizers. About once every two years, you can apply 3-4 kg of well-pulled manure under the bush, evenly distributing it over the soil surface.
Can be used in autumn time and mineral fertilizers, such as superphosphate and potassium sulfate. You need 15-20 g of superphosphate per plant, and twice as much potassium sulfate. Under no circumstances should nitrogen be added in the fall; it can stimulate the growth of the above-ground part of the plant and it will freeze and die in the winter.
It is better to apply fertilizers not simply by scattering them over the surface of the soil, but by making small depressions, such as furrows, then when the snow melts, the fertilizers will not spread over the entire area, but will feed into the soil in in the right place. When making grooves, try to move 18-20 centimeters away from the bush, and in order not to damage the roots, leave the depth of the grooves at 12-15 cm, no more.
Why is it good autumn feeding? In young shoots, it promotes the formation of flower buds and the next year there will be more harvest.
Pruning is an important autumn event
Usually, fruit-bearing shoots of common raspberries are cut out at the base of the soil, and a dozen young shoots are left to replace them, located at a distance of a pencil length from each other. In remontant raspberries, a shoot grows in the first year and only in the second year does it produce a harvest; here you need to be careful and know what is growing on your site. Some shoots of ordinary raspberries are left for two years, perhaps this way they are insured against mistakes; after two years, you can safely remove two-year-old shoots of both ordinary and remontant raspberries.
When pruning perennial shoots, pay attention to annual shoots, especially at their tips. If they are green, then they need to be cut off (precisely these ends), otherwise they will simply freeze in the winter. Of course, all weak, dry and broken shoots must also be removed.
If there are several bushes on the site, and they are intertwined, then thin out, remove those that interfere with each other, leaving a distance of 50, or preferably 60, centimeters between large bushes.
Video: Pruning raspberries for the winter. Rules for caring for raspberries in autumn
Moisture-recharging irrigation
Many people immediately stop watering raspberries in the fall, but this is only possible if the weather is damp, rainy and the air and soil are oversaturated with moisture; if this is not the case, watering is required. Water the plants periodically, keep the soil moist, and in October, carry out the last watering of this season, pouring a couple of buckets of water under an adult bush (2-3 instars), and half as much under a young bush. When there is a lot of water in the soil, the soil will freeze less and react more slowly to provocative thaws in winter, and in the spring the plants will immediately find themselves with moisture at the roots, this is very important.
Protection from diseases and pests
To begin with, this, of course, is cleaning; the bite area must be clean of branches, leaves, and debris so that the overwintering stages of the pest cannot survive the winter. It is even permissible to loosen the soil slightly (a couple of centimeters in the central regions and to the south where mulching of roots is not required); such loosening will kill pests and diseases that hibernate underground at shallow depths.
Leaf blades, collected from raspberries and other plants, need to be collected and burned, but you should not throw away the ashes, this good source potassium and can be used as fertilizer.
If last season the raspberries were heavily damaged by aphids or spider mite, then while the entire crop is harvested, you can treat it with insecticides as a preventive measure for the appearance of these pests again next year.
If the damage was minor and only single individuals of this pest were observed, then the bushes and the soil around them can be treated with a safer Bordeaux mixture(3-4% its solution).
The need to cover raspberries
The need to cover raspberries depends on a number of factors - for example, a foreign heat-loving variety is planted on the plot, which produces large and tasty fruits, but will not survive our winter, or you live in a region with harsh, little snow and frosty winters, or where the winters are not very cold but there is practically no snow at all, or you have thornless varieties that mice deftly gnaw.
In the fall, you should start mulching the soil. In general, raspberry roots should be well protected all year round, because this is the easiest way to preserve them. high humidity soil
In this case, you must first scatter poisoned mouse bait, then try to bend the bushes to the ground and cover them with any non-woven covering material. Sometimes they even build special trellises with wire as close as possible to the soil surface, to which the shoots are very carefully tied so as not to break them, and then covered. In addition to covering material, you can use burlap, spruce paws, leaf litter, sawdust and similar materials, in general, whatever is at hand. The main thing is that with the onset of warmth, the shelter must be removed so that the plants begin to grow normally.
The tied lashes should have an arched appearance. It is best to tie with nylon threads or ribbons By the way, there is no need to rush with shelter; usually in cold regions, raspberries are bent down and covered as soon as the first frosts begin, otherwise, if it is warm, the raspberries may begin to rot under the shelter.
If it is very cold in your region, then earth is thrown on top of the shelter, and the raspberries are literally buried for the winter.
It is clear that such serious shelter for raspberries is needed only in northern regions that are particularly cold in the cold, say in the center of Russia; raspberries do without shelter and can only suffer from return frosts.
Preparing remontant raspberries for winter
If you want to ensure that remontant raspberries produce as much harvest as possible, then you should grow them using the same agricultural techniques as ordinary raspberries, only the timing of sheltering for the winter will be slightly shifted - remontant varieties will grow and produce crops until frost. But the best and highest quality harvest from such crops is produced by annual shoots. They produce a larger harvest compared to perennial shoots. It is more advisable to leave only them, without wasting energy on two-year-old lashes.
A feature of any type of remontant crop is the ability to produce crops both on biennial shoots that ripened last season, and on green, summer shoots.
Therefore, in the fall, as soon as severe frosts If they kill the foliage on the raspberry branches, we cut off all the wood, leaving only small stems at the roots. We cover the roots very well with mulching material - preserving them until spring is most important for us now. The main thing is not to overdo it with the shelter, otherwise the roots may be blocked in a warm and snowy winter. So just mulch is enough and nothing additional.
N.V. Khromov
Raspberry care in autumn, preparation for winter video