T Anything can become a target for repair. For example, replacing a window unit with a plastic one. Then you will discover that everything in the room is connected to each other like a garland of monkeys holding each other’s tails.

At the same time, we clean off everything that is crumbling and can be cleaned without much effort.

If the coating, like an archaeological excavation, has many layers, we remove everything, if possible, down to the putty or plaster.

After clearing the main areas, we carefully remove all kinds of dowels, nails and screws.

Rough work is the basis for quality repairs

We begin the repair with rough work, the purpose of which is to repair and apply finishing coatings:

Good preparation of the base is the key to quality repairs

We cut out large cracks and stamp them with gypsum putty. We use the same compound to fill potholes, holes from dowels, screws, etc.

Plastic plugs - dowels, are easy to pull out using a self-tapping screw and pliers: insert the screw into the dowel and tighten it simply by hand until you have enough force, and then tighten it a couple more turns with a screwdriver. Pull the screw with pliers, the plug will easily come out of the wall.

Removing old sockets:

  • turn off the electricity supply;
  • unscrew the cover, remove or loosen the fastening and spacer screws, remove the socket and disconnect the wires;
  • We insulate the ends of the wires and tuck them into the socket boxes, securing them with tape.

We clean the walls from roughness using a fine plaster mesh. Apply a deep penetration primer. It will solve three problems at once:

  • will increase adhesion;
  • will strengthen upper layer structures;
  • will remove dust from the surface.

1. A good face for a bad game.

100% polyester silk. Stone-like tiles, parquet-like linoleum, onyx-like laminate, Trekhgorka like Ralph Lauren. Python-like porcelain tiles. “Artificially aged” something... It’s embarrassing to even think about. Alas, the number will not work. Look through good interior magazines. There, everywhere a stone is a stone, and a tree is just that: a tree. If you don’t have money for parquet, and simple laminate is beneath you, look for a good one engineering board. The result is a floor that looks worth much more than the money you spent on it. Good alternative porcelain tiles for kitchens, bathrooms and hallways - cement tiles. The result will look a hundred times more expensive.

2. Leave the ceiling alone.


Everyone has become obsessed with ceilings! If you think sensibly, focusing your attention on the ceiling only reminds everyone of its existence. And according to its height. Even if it cracks, the two-sixty-high ceilings will not turn into majestic vaults melting somewhere at an unimaginable height. This cannot happen, no matter what the “decorator’s tricks” promise you. Just accept it. Tall doorways can do much more for your home than a ridiculous five-layer ceiling with neon lights. Let interior doors will be two in height, say twenty. A door handles lower it a little, five to seven centimeters. Having shown non-standard approach, you will be pleasantly surprised by the result.

3. When choosing paint for walls, think about the movement of color throughout the house.


Neighboring. If you have a bright living room, let the hallway be painted in a deep, relatively dark color. The cost of paint will be the same in any case, and the result can look really expensive.

4. Buy modular cabinets from laminate in a store, and order the doors for them from a good carpentry workshop.


This will give you significant savings, which, however, no one will ever notice. The same is true for kitchen equipment.

5. If you still purchase ready-made cabinet furniture, let the veneer of the facades be dark, and the door panels be simple (rectangular).


Remember: light wood always looks cheaper. Avoid yellowish and reddish shades of veneer. And, while saving on the furniture itself, invest in good handles!

6. If on good carpet no money, look for viscose carpet or mixed fibers imitating a silk or wool pile carpet.


Choose the color and texture that suits you and order a piece of the size you need. For a little extra money, its edges will be covered with braid.

7. Place the curtains on a thick lining.


Even inexpensive curtain fabric will greatly benefit from this. Look for fabrics that are three meters wide. This results in significant savings. If you are not willing to spend a lot, avoid printed textiles (fabrics with a pattern). When cutting patterned fabrics, due to the need to properly join the fabrics, a lot of scraps remain. The more rapport, the more waste. Do not use curtain tape for curtains. Let the seamstress lay down the “hand” folds. It's not that expensive, and the pleats, gathered with braid, look very cheap.

8. Set-set-set. Identical things in the interior are permissible only in one case: if they are paired items that form a symmetrical composition. and leave the sconces from one set to those to whom God has not given imagination. They are the kits upholstered furniture“a sofa or two armchairs” and similar tender sadness. For more details, see the next paragraph.

9. Ready-made solutions.


Bad news: there isn't any. At least for us. Shower room being built construction method because it is a room. Unless you run a student hostel or an underground massage parlor with striptease, a shower stall (that sad structure of yellow acrylic and lopsided doors) will not suit you. Don't spend money on “designer” plumbing fixtures. Let appearance The plumbing equipment of the bathroom (kitchen, toilet) will be dictated by function. Buy washbasins and faucets simple shapes, without inappropriate decor. The toilet should be inconspicuous and do its job. No one will admire him, right?

10. Paintings, prints, engravings, photographs and posters frame in simple but deep frames with glass and always with a mat.


Even a picture printed on a home inkjet printer (or a naive children's drawing), in such a frame looks very significant. Play with the size of the mat. A small work in a very wide mat looks very “designer-like”. And, by the way, cardboard for mats can be of almost any color.

11. Comfort. Another collective fetish.


According to my observations, what in our Palestinians is called “comfort”, in 99 percent of cases, is poetic closeness. In many ways, this is a physical memory of a bygone childhood, of the warm and affectionate meager Soviet life with carpets teeming with saprophytes, a kind grandmother, Czechoslovak crystal and the unread Dreiser in the polished Polish wall of “Hanka”. Moreover, expensive devilry like round bed with music and a minibar, a bar counter with a built-in aquarium, etc. The same is true for such rich things as lambrequin, garland and swag. Don't worry: in a good, well-thought-out interior, comfort inevitably comes naturally. That's why…

12. ...Farewell, gypsy Sera!


Duvet covers made of calico in fine Nefertiti, towels in scarlet roses, pillowcases in eye-catching shades, nylon blankets with Shanghai leopards. All these are attributes of collective farm chic, forgive me for being blunt. They will not add comfort. Variegated coloring is often necessary for these things solely to hide their exceptionally lousy quality. Let bed sheets and bath towels will be simply white (options: Ivory, ecru). But made from excellent Egyptian cotton.

13. However, it is also important not to overdo it with ivory.


Peach, beige, sand... The average nuanced range is good for chain hotels. Because their stenciled interiors are bound to please everyone. You should like your interior. After all, he is a manifestation of your essence, right? Pick up a fan palette from any paint manufacturer. Do you feel pleasant heaviness? These are your possibilities. Don't miss them!

We do not always have the opportunity to completely vacate the apartment in order to make repairs. Many people face this situation, but not everyone can find it the right decision and persevere through this stressful period. So how can you properly prepare for the start of repairs, so that then, along with the working materials, ours do not begin to be consumed? nerve cells? Follow our instructions.

1. Decide on the scope of work and who will perform it

At the very beginning, you need to decide what kind of work you are aiming for: will it be a “small” cosmetic repair or are you in the mood for a major remodel? Will you move from room to room and do renovations gradually, or are you ready to carry out renovations by type of work and live on the construction site all the time? Who will do the work: will you do it yourself or hire professionals? In any case, the choice will always be yours.

Of course, the easiest way is to invite professional designer, builder, finishing, electrical and plumbing work, which will determine the strengths and weak sides in room. Note that this is what will directly affect the costs and deadlines, and consultation with a designer and his assistance in developing a sketch will help save time and money on rework.

2. Write down a plan

After you have made a choice on the type of repair and its performers, you need to write down a clear plan and schedule for the repair, which should contain a list of rooms and the work carried out in them, the cost of the work and procurement costs necessary materials.

3. Start repairs at the right time

The best time for renovation is spring and summer. During the spring and summer months, the heating is turned off, so it will be much easier for you to negotiate with the housing department about temporarily turning off the riser to replace radiators.

IN warm time year, you can safely open the windows and constantly ventilate the room. In addition, in spring and summer the putty dries faster.

4. Free up space

After drawing up and approving the estimate, begin to boldly empty the rooms of furniture, lamps and unnecessary things.

The more you clean at the beginning, the less you will clean at the end.

Fabrics absorb all odors, so before starting renovations, you need to pack all things in sealed bags and take them out of the room. It is best to store clothes in vacuum bags, they take up less space and prevent dust from being absorbed into the fabric.

For wall cladding, we recommend using panels made from natural wood or decorative panels based on gypsum. Extremely dangerous to use in an apartment plastic panels, since they are very fire hazardous and in the event of a fire they emit a suffocating odor that poisons the body.

The floor is done in two steps, moving furniture from one part to another.

As for finishing the ceiling, you need to choose: either you tolerate and breathe dust all the time, or, having abandoned puttying, sanding and painting the ceiling, you are ready to install a tension fabric.

The cost of such a stretch ceiling is approximately equal to the cost of work and materials for a painted ceiling, and the installation speed is only 2–3 hours (as opposed to 5–6 days for a painted one). However, it is important to understand that such film ceilings “do not breathe” and, together with plastic windows and linoleum create a closed “non-breathing” space. Such a room needs to be ventilated often, but such a stretch ceiling can protect you from leaks upper neighbors. It inflates like a bubble and can hold a volume of water up to 50 liters.

Means of protection

  • Attach tightly to all doorways using Velcro (picture mounts) wet gauze. Its fiber perfectly absorbs construction dust. The gauze must be rinsed several times a day and reattached to the doorways.
  • Masking film for surface protection. It prevents putty or clouds of paint microparticles from reaching the surface. Such self-adhesive film can be removed without leaving a residue, but do not forget that all protective materials must be removed after painting, and the surfaces must be washed and cleaned of possible minor troubles. If the second coat of paint is carried over to the next day, the protective film must be reapplied.
  • Masking tape. It fits tightly and does not allow paint to penetrate beyond it, thereby blocking the surface for painting. This adhesive tape is used to seal window frames and door trims. mandatory and all exposed surfaces beyond repair.
  • Polyethylene film and covering material (rags). During repairs, the floor is covered with film to protect it from damage. Covering material must be used to cover cabinets on all sides, appliances and even flowers. True, it is advisable to open the flowers in the evening so that they can “breathe.”
  • Respirator, gloves And other personal protective equipment. During the period of painting surfaces, sawing tiles, sanding surfaces and all dusty work, apartment residents need to protect their health with such by individual means and drink plenty of fluids and dairy products to help your body quickly eliminate construction dust particles that enter your lungs during renovations.

Approximate repair plan

1. Determining the budget.

2. Consultation with the designer and builders.

3. Drawing up and approval of estimates.

4. Emptying the room of furniture and belongings.

5. Launch of the construction team.

6. Beginning of work. Dismantling (one day is enough for dismantling work for one room).

7. Electrical and plumbing installation (the most noisy, dusty and dirty work, during which the kindness and patience of neighbors are tested).

8. Painting works. It is quiet but very dusty during the sanding process. Plastering and puttying work can last from 1 to 10 days depending on the task (alignment using beacons, filling deep grooves, visual leveling, wallpapering, decorative plaster or coloring). During the same period, ceilings are made if they are being prepared for painting.

9. Filling the floor can be done both before (the need for serious leveling) and after preparing the walls (if only partial adjustments are enough).

10. Installation or flooring flooring.

11. Installation tension fabric on the ceiling.

12. Installation and connection lighting fixtures, sockets/switches, decorative elements(baguettes, floor skirting boards, cash on doors/windows and so on).

13. Spring-cleaning.

14. Furniture arrangement and textile decoration.

15. The renovation is complete!

Repair is a rather loose concept. For some, making a renovation means completely destroying the entire room and finishing all surfaces from scratch; for others, even replacing wallpaper means renovation. Therefore, first you need to decide what you want to do: cosmetic or major, and also outline the scope of work and their sequence.

Properly planned repairs will take less time and will also save money. How? This will be discussed further.

So, a few rules, following which your repair will proceed smoothly and smoothly, without unpleasant surprises and unforeseen complications.

Rule #1. Decide on the design of the room in advance. It is much easier to select materials for repairs when you know exactly what the end result should be. To develop a design, you can use the services of a specialist, or you can do everything yourself. It would be a good idea to look through thematic magazines or websites. With the help of special computer programs For clarity, you can create a picture of the future room.

Rule #2. Check out the new products on the building materials market. Modern market offers a variety of materials for roughing and finishing surfaces, which can significantly simplify and speed up repair work. It is better to trust the choice of building materials for experienced builders who know the issues of price and quality and can choose exactly what you need.

Rule #3. You need to purchase everything you need for repairs in advance. Before you go shopping, you need to determine what you will need and in what quantity. In order to calculate the consumption of materials, it is necessary to measure the parameters of the room: its exact area, the length of the walls, the height of the ceiling, the sizes of window and doorways etc. This data must be as accurate as possible, so it is better to take measurements several times. Based on the data obtained, it is possible to calculate the consumption of all materials. It is advisable that the quantity of materials be determined accurately, otherwise you will either have to overpay for the excess quantity or buy more of them later.

Buy Construction Materials best on wholesale bases, where prices are lower and the range is quite wide. It will also be more profitable to purchase all the necessary goods in one place, if, of course, this is possible. Taking into account the discount systems that directly depend on the purchase price, you can count on a significant bonus and free shipping.

When using materials for repairs that need to be specially ordered or the quantity of which is limited, you need to accurately determine their consumption. If there is a shortage of such materials, repairs may be suspended or other materials will have to be used, which will certainly affect the result.

Rule #4. Before the beginning repair work It is imperative to remove all furniture and other interior items from the room. If left, they will not only interfere with free movement, but will most likely themselves become unusable, covered with construction dust, scratches, stains of paint or mortar, etc. Not to mention that in this case it is almost impossible to make high-quality flooring. So it’s better to spend a couple of hours removing the furniture than to throw it away anyway. To do this, you can use the help of loaders or clean the repair area yourself.

Rule #5. Prepare your kit in advance necessary tools so that during repairs you will not be distracted by searching for a drill or hammer. The set of tools directly depends on the planned work and the technology for carrying it out. Be sure to have rags, solvents, and a bucket of water ready. Almost no repair can be carried out without scaffolding. At home, they can be replaced by a table suitable height, which makes it possible to carry out work on finishing the upper part of the walls and ceiling as conveniently as possible. Please note that such a table will almost certainly lose its previous appearance after renovation, and it is unlikely to be used as furniture in the apartment.

In addition, you need to think about your safety by preparing a respirator, goggles, gloves, etc.

Rule #6. Be sure to completely remove the old finish. This applies to flooring, old wallpaper, peeling plaster, etc. Dismantling of the finishing is carried out starting from the floor. Even if you are not going to change the floor covering (for example, carpet or laminate), it is better to remove it, otherwise it will not survive until the end of the renovation.

As for the walls, it is not necessary to clean them down to brick or concrete base. If they are smooth, recently puttied, without cracks or roughness, they can be applied new finishing. Old wallpaper or other finishing needs to be removed before the new one can be applied. There are usually no problems with wallpaper, but if you are “lucky” to deal with old paper wallpaper, which were glued “for centuries”, you will have to make an effort so as not to damage the surface of the wall. In this case, the wallpaper is moistened with soapy water, which facilitates its removal.

Removing the ceiling finish depends on its type. If it is whitewash, it is removed using a special brush. If the ceiling is covered water-based paint, which has a completely normal appearance, should not be washed off. In cases where cracks, crumbling plaster, or other serious defects appear on the surface, it must be cleaned to the ground.

If it is planned to replace windows and doors in a room, they also need to be dismantled before starting repair work, since this is a rather “dusty” process, and in some cases even requires partial destruction of the walls. If the windows and doors will be used as before, then after all work related to dirt and dust is completed, their surface is cleaned, sanded and painted if necessary. This should be done only after a thorough wet cleaning of the apartment, so that fine particles dust did not settle on the painted surface. Otherwise, the result will be a rough and sloppy surface. Before installation, new windows and doors are coated with protective film, protecting them from possible damage. It is advisable not to remove it immediately after installation, but leave it until all repair work is completed. At the same time, it will protect the surface from dust, drops of paint or solution, and other substances that can damage it.

Rule #7. Clean up construction garbage after each stage of repair. Over the course of time, such a quantity will accumulate that it will simply be impossible to work indoors, so it is advisable to immediately take out all the excess and wash the floor regularly to prevent dust from accumulating.

Rule #8. Plan your renovation work so that first there are all the “dirty” processes that leave behind a lot of debris and dust, and only then the finishing touches. Let's take a closer look at the sequence of work.

Traditionally, renovation starts from the ceiling. Decide what exactly you want to do with it. If this is leveling the surface using putty, you need to immediately apply it and then sand it so that you don’t have to return to finishing the ceiling later. It is advisable to remove any resulting dust immediately. Plasterboard ceiling is also mounted, puttied and sanded immediately, but suspended structures, panels or stretch ceiling are installed after finishing the walls, otherwise construction dust may settle on them, and their surface may become dirty or damaged.

In general, in most cases of renovation, ceiling finishing comes first, although there are exceptions. For example, when it is planned to finish the ceiling and walls with putty, the work is carried out in parallel, after which the ceiling is covered if necessary finishing, and then applied to the walls finishing layer(decorative putty, wallpaper, paint, etc.).

After the ceiling comes the walls. First you need to determine their evenness, the quality of the corners, as well as the condition of the previous rough finish. If the walls were not leveled before, then most likely this will need to be done. Another common problem is uneven corners. Almost all finishing finishes require maximum flat surface and right angles, since they will not be able to hide wall defects. As a result, even expensive types the finishes will look pathetic on lumpy walls; when using wallpaper, there is a high probability of the panels being skewed, the pattern not matching, and other defects appearing. Therefore, preparing walls for finishing is a mandatory and important stage of repair.

The type of finishing for the walls is selected depending on the chosen design style. This could be paint, decorative putty, different kinds wallpaper, panels. You can begin finishing immediately after completing all work related to dust or other possible contamination.

It is important to remember that it is the walls that largely determine the appearance of the room and the quality of the repair. Any defect on their surface can ruin general impression. Therefore, when working with them you need to be extremely careful and strictly follow the application technology. finishing materials, use only high-quality products.

IN Lately The use of various built-in wardrobes, partitions and other functional decorative interior elements has become popular. They allow you to fully use the usable area of ​​the room without cluttering it with heavy pieces of furniture. In addition, they create unique interior and make it possible to embody original design solutions. To create them, they are usually used metal profiles and sheets of plasterboard, which after installation are puttied and, if necessary, painted or covered with another finish, similar to the walls or, on the contrary, standing out against their background. The installation of such structures should take place parallel to the finishing of the walls. Assembling and fastening such structures requires certain skills, so to create them it is better to seek help from specialists. Ignorance of the technology of their assembly can lead to the destruction of structures, damage to materials, and possibly to the surface of the walls. So it’s better not to take risks and immediately turn to professionals.

Floor repair may include both a simple replacement of the floor covering and replacement of its entire structure. In the first case, the floor can be done immediately after finishing the walls, in the second - before finishing. Complete replacement the floor requires its leveling by pouring concrete screed, installation of “warm floor” and other works. In this case, there is a high probability of damage to the wall finishing.

Before starting floor repairs, you need to remove all debris and thoroughly wash the surface. Dust, sand, soil, mixture residues and other foreign materials should not accumulate, and the coating should not be installed on them. Foreign particles can subsequently cause premature wear of the floor.

The floor surface should be flat, and not only because it is beautiful. It is quite difficult to lay flooring on an uneven surface, and over time it can quickly lose its appearance. The flooring itself is installed after the final completion of all other work. During the renovation, the floor is constantly subject to stress: moving scaffolding and tools, constant walking, impacts, stains from paints and mixtures, layers of dust. If the coating is laid earlier, it will not last even until the repair is completed. The same applies to skirting boards, which are installed after laying the floor covering. Modern models skirting boards are not only fastened without problems, but also have special covers that hide the fastening elements.

When planning the sequence of repair work, you need to remember that the main thing is not to spoil what has already been done. If you do not follow this principle, you can immediately prepare for a new renovation, which requires additional time and money.



This article is also available in the following languages: Thai

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