Feed the soil before planting. How to fertilize the soil in spring with organic-mineral fertilizers. What are the benefits of fertilizing plants?

In the spring, when nature awakens, summer residents also begin to become active, because for them it is a busy time. In order to get a rich harvest in the fall, you should early spring prepare for, including selecting the correct and observing the required dosages.

It is important to take into account the needs that will be planted on. And if for experienced gardeners such a process is not difficult, then for beginners in this business it can be difficult to choose the right effective

There are also disadvantages. In particular, nutritional imbalances may occur. Also, this type of feeding can contain seeds, and organic matter can sometimes cause and be a kind of magnet for toxins. Nevertheless, organic fertilizers do not lose their popularity, since the benefits from them are much greater than the harm.

When choosing organics, it is highly recommended to use. Any gardener can prepare it. To do this, on a plot of 10 square meters. straw should be scattered, the layer thickness should be about 15 cm. A 20 cm thick layer is laid on top, and at the end - a 20 cm layer.

You can sprinkle all this with lime and phosphate rock, at the rate of 55–60 g of mixture per 1 square meter. m. You need to lay out a layer on top again and cover all layers with a thin ball. After 7–8 months, an effective organic fertilizer will be ready for use.

In granules, this is a universal phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizer that can be applied to almost all

Fertilizing the soil is the key to a rich harvest for many years to come. Any land becomes depleted over time, and therefore requires care and maintenance, like a living creature.

Relationship between soil and fertilizers

The type of fertilizers, the time and method of their application directly depend on the type of land, the duration of its operation, as well as the crops that grew on the site the previous season. For example, if the soil is heavy, fertilizers with nitrogen are applied to the garden in the spring, and all the rest - in the fall, during digging. To prevent light soils from transferring all the beneficial substances to the deep layers (or they are not washed away), they are fertilized in the spring. Liquid or “green” fertilizers, which gardeners often make themselves, can be applied a little with each watering, carefully bypassing the delicate green leaves of the crops. We should not forget about foliar feeding, especially effective for shrubs and garden trees. Such spraying is carried out in the early morning or late evening, but not in bright sun.

Fertilizing the soil with nitrogen

Fertilizers rich in nitrogen are applied to plants in the first half of summer. This allows crops to quickly grow green mass and produce a more powerful harvest. But from the beginning of August it is better to stop this procedure. Otherwise, perennials will not have time to prepare for winter, prolonging their “wakefulness” cycle until deep cold. On the other hand, later (for example in October) fertilizing young fruit trees with manure, droppings or mullein will stimulate the formation of a strong root system. As a result, nitrogen fertilizers can be applied 4 times a year, according to the following scheme:

• at the beginning of planting, to gain green mass;
• in June, after the empty ovaries fall off;
• in July, for bookmarking fruit buds for next year;
• after the leaves fall, to grow roots.

Adding compost to the soil

Humus requires quite for a long time in order to become a full-fledged nutritional supplement. Therefore, many owners prefer to bring it into the ground early. Namely, in the fall, so that the compost has time to further decompose and nourish the soil for a longer time. It is also beneficial to spread the finished humus in early spring, one and a half to two months before planting the first shoots. To prevent drying out, humus is introduced to a depth of 10-15 cm, covered with a layer of mulch on top. In autumn, it is preferable to add unripe compost to clay and sandy soils at a rate of 5 kg. substances per square meter of vegetable garden. Ready fertilizer spend more carefully - about a handful per hole, depending on the type of plant.

Other types of soil fertilizers

It is simply impossible to list all types of fertilizers with their characteristics in one article. Therefore, we will quickly touch on the most important ones:

• peat can be applied at any time of the year, even on top of snow, mixing it with lime;
• water-soluble phosphorus fertilizers are placed under any crops and soils, semi-soluble - on acidic soil, sparingly soluble - on leached and degraded chernozems;
• In autumn, phosphorus is applied to early-sown crops;
• effective potassium compounds should be distinguished: potassium chloride is suitable for acidic soils and areas with heavy precipitation, potassium sulfate is suitable for greenhouses;
• the most useful are complex fertilizers, for example potassium nitrate, ammophos, nitroammophoska, crystallin and so on.

Be careful about the dosage of fertilizers, closely monitoring the condition of the plants and soil. Exceeding the amount of nutrients recommended by experts will negatively affect the quantity and quality of your harvest, as well as your health and the well-being of your plants.

Instructions

Organic fertilizers are divided into two groups: plant residues and animal fertilizers. Vegetables include: peat, composts. For animals: manure and droppings. When making organic fertilizers into the soil, its structure improves significantly. This promotes the reproduction of living organisms, which bring great benefits both to the soil itself and to the plants. Today, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers using compost. It is very easy to prepare. Lay out straw 15 centimeters thick over an area of ​​10 square meters. Then a layer of manure 20 centimeters. Then a layer of peat is also 15-20 centimeters. Sprinkle lime over this and phosphate rock, mixing them one to one. For each square meter pour 50-60 grams. Add another layer of manure 15-20 centimeters on top. Cover all this with a thin layer of earth. This compost must be aged for 7-8 months and only then can it be used. The advantages of organic fertilizer: first, it increases soil fertility, second, it improves its structure, and third, it ensures the presence of living microorganisms. But there is also. The first one is nutrient imbalance. Second, its concentration is still unknown. The third is keeping a large number of weeds. Fourth, there is a high risk of contracting diseases. Fifth, organic matter inherently absorbs and attracts toxic substances. And the sixth is the most dangerous, these fertilizers absorb radionuclides.

Mineral fertilizers – chemicals, which require careful handling. They must be used strictly according to the norm. Noble gardeners usually use the following: nitrogen, lime, manganese, potassium and other fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizers include: nitrate, urea, ammonia and ammonia water. For good plant nutrition, it is necessary that there is always enough nitrogen in the soil. Nitrogen fertilizers should be applied to the soil twice a year. They are applied twice a year. The first half of the fertilizer is applied around the second half of April, and the second half in mid-November. The method of applying such fertilizers is the same. The fertilizer is spread by hand, after which the soil is cultivated. To achieve the best effect, the soil must be moist. Potassium fertilizers significantly increase. Potassium in the soil is mainly in forms that are difficult for plants to reach, so the agricultural need for such fertilizers is very high. Almost all of them contain chlorine, sodium and magnesium ions, which affect plant growth. Bring in potash fertilizers recommended in the fall together with manure for basic soil cultivation. Without phosphorus, chlorophyll formation and absorption by plants is impossible carbon dioxide. The application of phosphorus fertilizers to the soil not only increases productivity, but also improves the quality of products. These fertilizers need to be applied in the fall. First scatter them over the surface, then dig them up land to a depth of twenty centimeters. You need to dig near trees parallel to the roots.

Organomineral fertilizers are humic fertilizers that consist of organic matter and mineral compounds. Each drug has its own instructions. But there are basic methods of depositing. For open soil is a spraying method, and for closed soil- these are methods of drip irrigation, sprinkling, surface irrigation and manual spraying on the leaf. The basic consumption for seed treatment is 300-700 milliliters per ton of seeds. For foliar feeding - 200-400 milliliters of fertilizer per hectare of crops. For – at drip irrigation 20-40 milliliters per thousand liters of irrigation water, and when spraying 5-10 milliliters of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.

Sources:

• how to fertilize the soil

Fruit trees the garden needs to be fertilized. Then in the spring they will delight you with their bright flowering, and closer to autumn you will collect bountiful harvest. Before planting seedlings, the soil is fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers. The next application of nutrients is done after a couple of years, it all depends on the fertility of the soil.

You will need

• - shovel
• - mineral fertilizers
• - organic fertilizers

Instructions

Fertilizers are placed under several methods. Fertilizer is applied in a circle.
Spread plastic film on flat surface. Dig a groove around the tree. Its depth must be at least 35 cm, and its width must be at least half a meter. Place the removed soil on film. Mix it with mineral or organic fertilizers. Fill the ditch with enriched soil and level it

Pit fertilization.
Make 7 - 10 holes at a short distance from the trunk. When digging, place the shovel with its beam facing the trunk so as not to cut the roots. The depth of the hole is at least 50 cm. Fill the hole with fertilizer and cover it with soil.

Meet your trees' potassium needs. With potassium deficiency, the fruits will be of poor quality. Under trees Apply mineral fertilizers with potassium or wood ash. Feed with ash at any time of the year.

In the fall, fertilize the trees with phosphorus fertilizers. Phosphorus affects taste qualities fruits and their subsequent preservation. Most of all phosphorus is required trees m in early spring and early autumn. Bury phosphate fertilizers deeper.

Apply organic fertilizers (manure, humus, slurry) under trees. Manure or humus must be rotted. Can't fertilize trees fresh. Fertilize with slurry after watering or rain. Make sure that fertilizers do not get on the leaves and.

Video on the topic

Useful advice

Fruit-bearing trees require intensive feeding; nutrient mixtures will ensure not only a high harvest this year, but will also help the tree in laying fresh shoots and buds.

Related article

Sources:

• http://www.gardenia.ru/quests/quest_619.htm
• how to fertilize a garden in 2019

If you grow on your own plot fruit trees and shrubs, and also have a vegetable garden, every year you are faced with the question of how to fertilize soil. On the one hand, we all want our crops to be grown organically, i.e. without adding any fertilizers industrial production. On the other hand, we are waiting high yields. How can we reduce these two desires to one denominator?

You will need

• - soil;
• - mineral fertilizers;
• - organic fertilizers;
• - lime;
• - shovel.

Instructions

Add clay if you have sandy soil. Add river sand if it is clayey. This must be done in order to nutrients did not go deep into the earth and were not washed away by rain. Another rule that must be followed is compliance with crop rotation. It is extremely important that representatives of the same family do not grow in the garden bed for two years in a row. By and large, they can be returned to their place only after 3-4 years. Exceptions –

A good harvest depends not only on proper care and quality seed material. An important factor is fertile, loose soil. It is unlikely that you will be able to grow large, healthy fruits or vegetables on poor, loose soils.

Does the earth need help?

Not only a deficiency, but also an excess of nutrients has a deplorable effect on the harvest. Overfed soil is in some cases even worse than underfed soil. How to determine that the soil needs to be fertilized?

First, find out the type of soil that predominates in your dacha:

• on light sandy loams or sandstones useful elements They go deep very quickly. Here, potassium, sulfur, iodine, bromine, magnesium, and nitrogen are most often lacking. Such soil, in addition to targeted mineral fertilizer, it is necessary to dilute with heavier aluminas, structure with siderites and compost;
• alkaline soils and salt marshes are characterized by a lack of zinc, copper, phosphorus, manganese, boron, iron and magnesium;
• acidic ones lack phosphorus, calcium, sulfur, molybdenum, magnesium. Nitrogen is poorly absorbed. Peat bogs need potassium, manganese, boron, and copper.

Salt marshes and acidic soils require a lot of attention: most garden and garden plants prefers neutral soils. Just deposit necessary elements not enough into the soil. The reaction of acidic soils is brought to a neutral value by liming, structured with sand. Salt marshes - with peat or compost. Good results showed the planting and embedding of siderites.

Secondly, make sure that the plants are not sick, namely starving.

Starvation is widespread and does not depend on the type of plant: it also affects fruit trees, and vegetable crops. Signs of diseases similar to starvation are selective and affect any one of the garden or vegetable crops.

Symptoms of fasting

There are a number of signs that indicate a lack of elements in the soil:

1. Nitrogen (N). Deficiency makes plant leaves weak. They turn yellow and slow down. With severe depletion, old leaves quickly die off.
2. Potassium (K). For potassium deficiency pale leaves turn brown and dry along the edges. Along the veins, the tissue dries out and wrinkles. Internodes are shortened. The shoots become thin.
3. Phosphorus (P). There is little phosphorus in the soil, if new leaves become smaller, they often become thin and narrow, change color to bluish with brown spots. A bronze tint appears. Near the petioles or veins, the color changes to purple or red.
4. Iron (Fe). The leaf veins remain green against the background of the yellowing leaf blade. New leaves grow pale.
5. Calcium (Ca). Dying of young shoots, fragility of shoots in general. Curling and dying of young leaves.
6. Copper (Cu). Green plants are full of pale and brown highlights and become lethargic. There is a slowdown in growth and the death of growth points.
7. Magnesium (Mg). In case of magnesium deficiency leaf plate Brown yellow or red spots grow between the veins.

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These are the main elements that lay the harvest in the country. Of course, the list is not exhaustive. If the problem of starvation is identified, fertilizing the soil will help.

Time to improve soil composition

Laying the foundation of the entire crop, namely fertilizing the soil, is a complex and ambiguous matter. Dry complex mineral supplements, their liquid solutions, organic matter or infusions have different speed work in the soil, in plants, their roots. It is necessary to take these factors into account and correlate them with the structure of the soil at the dacha.

Nutrient elements, except nitrogen, are added to heavy soil in the fall, during digging, and to light soil - in the spring, since on sandy loam they go deeper during the winter, beyond the limits of active absorption by the roots.

It should be borne in mind that fertilizers applied for digging are far from a panacea for plant starvation. Regular feeding will be required during the period of growth, bud formation, ovary and fruit ripening.

Dry mineral fertilizers

Fertilizing with dry compositions of mineral salts is carried out under digging, embedded in the soil. For use in the country, they are produced in the form of granules or powder.

Nitrogen works best when applied in the spring in the form of nitrates. For winter application it is possible in ammonia form.

Potassium salts are added to the soil not only in spring, but also in autumn. Sandy loam and sandstone can be fertilized even in summer. Phosphorus supplements are also universal - they are applied in spring or autumn.

It is better to use mineral fertilizers in granular form: they do not cake and, unlike powder ones, they are easier to distribute.

Aqueous solutions of mineral elements

In liquid form, complex mineral salts are absorbed faster by the roots and act immediately after application. They are used throughout the summer season.

The first time the plants are shed with a solution mineral elements V open ground approximately 20 days after planting. Then at least once a month.

In addition to root feeding, you can spray the leaves throughout the growing season. This fertilizer is used if the roots cannot receive enough nutrition through the soil, due, for example, to low temperatures.

When to use organics

On personal plots Organic is an affordable natural fertilizer that ensures the environmental purity of grown fruits and vegetables.

Organic matter is easily absorbed by any plants.

Depending on the type, it can be used at different times:

How to fertilize the soil correctly

Knowing when to add nutrients is important, but knowing how to do it correctly is even more important.

In dry form, mineral fertilizers and organic matter are incorporated into the soil to such a depth that root system garden and vegetable crops had maximum access to nutrients. Optimal depth– up to 20 cm of wet soil. Left on the surface or embedded shallowly and in dry soil, nutrients will remain unavailable to plants.

If the soil is poor and there are few fertilizers, they are applied when planting the plants directly - in the hole. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not come into direct contact with them, otherwise burns are possible.

Mineral fertilizers are often diluted not in the dosage recommended by the manufacturer, but 5-15% less. This prevents the accumulation of substances harmful to humans in vegetables and fruits.

There are some nuances to adding organic matter. It is best to use rotted or semi-rotted manure. Fresh releases ammonia, which is toxic to plants.

Often peat, chicken or bird droppings, compost and humus are embedded into the soil shallowly - up to 3 cm, while trying to distribute them as evenly as possible.

Separately, it is necessary to say about sawdust. They are never included in fresh: they are capable of depleting the soil to the point of nitrogen starvation.

Liquid solutions of mineral salts and infusions of organic matter are applied in the area of ​​the root zone of plants into shallow furrows in moist soil. After this procedure, they are sprayed so that no active substances remain on the leaves.

How to properly treat the soil?

Increasing soil fertility is painstaking work. Simply adding a complex of minerals will not change the structure of the soil; it will only temporarily and to a limited extent enrich it. You will not get environmentally friendly, healthy vegetables and fruits from such a plot. Only a comprehensive improvement of the soil structure and its enrichment with green manure, compost, peat, and manure will ensure long-term results.

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In order to properly fertilize the soil, you need to follow several rules - do not add too much fertilizer to the soil, for example, it is better a little less than the plants need, so as not to create environmental problems. It is advisable to combine organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers, as well as combine basic spring fertilizers With regular feeding. Potassium fertilizers contribute good growth and increasing plant immunity Nitrogen fertilizers only affect the growth process. Nitrogen should be added only in the spring during the first waterings. Most the right fertilizer there is manure. It contains everything you need, enriches and loosens the soil. It needs to be applied to the soil once every 3 years. In addition, organic fertilizers have only a negligible effect on environment, because they are made from compost or animal dung. Therefore, it is better to use these types of fertilizers rather than artificial fertilizers, which, although they contain concentrated nutrients for your plants, but spoil the environment and settle in the soil. Di and whoever likes it, eat a cucumber from own garden made from chemicals?

Application of fertilizers and measures to improve soil composition

Sandy soils poor in humus can be improved by regularly applying organic fertilizers. The mechanical composition of light sandy soil can be improved by adding crushed clay to it.

Heavy loamy, clayey and uncultivated soils can be easily improved by adding organic fertilizers, loosening materials, and liming.

Autumn digging of soil- this is the most the right time for applying the bulk of organic, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, lime materials and mineral additives in the form of sand or clay.

Autumn is good time for applying phosphorus fertilizers to the soil. In order for them to reach the roots of plants, a long period of time is needed. These fertilizers are not washed out of the soil for quite a long time; if they are introduced in the fall, then the earth will become saturated with them all winter. At the same time, potash fertilizers containing chlorine are also applied. Movement until spring soil water will move chlorine to deeper soil horizons.

The formation of a fertile soil layer is facilitated by digging up the entire free surface of the site, onto which a natural fertilizer such as wood ash has previously been applied.

If you intend to grow such garden crops, like zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, celery, then during autumn digging, manure, humus or compost must be added to the soil. If in the area where it is supposed to grow carrots, beets, scorzonera, radishes, organic fertilizers were applied in the previous season, then it is enough to apply mineral fertilizers. You can limit yourself to a small amount of humus or compost. Organic fertilizers include manure, bird droppings, slurry, humus, peat and composts.

It is not recommended to embed into the soil during digging fresh bird droppings, rabbit, sheep and goat manure. It must first be composted. Many vegetable growers generally prefer to add only rotted manure to the soil. Starting in the fall, they stack fresh manure in layers in a compacted pile on a dry, well-compacted area, which is covered with a thick layer of clay so that the manure does not come into contact with the ground. The layers are laid out with turf or peat, covering the stack on top with the same turf, sawdust, straw or peat. To prevent moisture from precipitation from penetrating inside the stack, it is covered with film. Manure lying on winter cold, used for early planting vegetable crops. After adding rotted manure to the soil, you can grow greens, onions, carrots, cucumbers and pumpkins on it. If sufficient quantities of manure were used as fertilizer on the site, then it is permissible not to use other organic fertilizers.

Vegetables produce a particularly abundant harvest in the 2nd year after applying manure. Nice bow grows after incorporating horse manure into the soil, and beets and parsley - after sheep manure. Radishes get more yield in those areas that have been fed with cow manure.

Bird droppings considered strong and fast-acting fertilizer. It contains large number batteries will soon decompose. Typically, bird droppings are stored together with peat, combining them into equal parts. The litter is most effective if it contains liquid fertilizers along with mullein solution.

It is advisable to collect and store chicken manure in the same way as regular manure, insulating the piles with peat chips, sawdust or leaves. If the piles of droppings freeze, the droppings will stop decomposing and many plant nutrients will be lost.

➣ All remnants of damaged plants and vegetables and disease-infected tops must be carefully collected, dried and burned in dry weather. The resulting ash can be used as fertilizer when digging.

The humus content in the soil is significantly increased by adding a large volume of manure compost. In addition, such an event inhibits the activity of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. Manure compost contains antibiotics; they are secreted by individual soil microorganisms that suppress pathogens.

The readiness of the compost laid in the previous year should be checked on the eve of winter, in November. It must be shoveled and then insulated. Before frost, compost heaps should be covered with branches and soil with a layer of up to 50 cm, which will protect them from freezing.
A more detailed separate article was devoted to fertilizing chicken manure.

Peat used as fertilizer in manure-peat mixtures. Peat is used on its own to improve the structure of the soil as a loosening material.

Some gardeners fertilize the soil with leaf soil, considering it a relatively good fertilizer. The foliage is collected in a heap in the fall, covered so that the wind does not blow it around the site, and left for the winter. In the spring, if the leaves have decomposed, mix them with soil. If they have not decomposed by spring, then they are dug up and left until autumn.

Often, gardeners collect the bulk of plant debris with a rake, garden leaves, tops and put in compost heap, considering it as an ideal material for humus. Plant residues and debris from spring greenhouses and greenhouses are also placed there. However, such fertilizer increases the likelihood of soil contamination by one or another fungal disease. If there is the slightest suspicion that weeds, grass, or vegetable shoots are infected with pathogens or eggs of various harmful insects, then they cannot be used as future fertilizer. Pathogens of plant diseases and harmful insects usually settle in the pre-winter period among plant debris, dry tops, on dry branches and trunks of old trees. However, it is better to burn the leaves and other plant debris and feed the soil with the resulting ash.

During the autumn digging, many gardeners heavy soils They bring in manure mixed with sawdust, which was used as bedding for livestock. Sometimes clean sawdust is used, after scalding it with boiling water. Sawdust is useful as a loosening material on heavy soils. But wood decomposes very slowly in the soil, consuming too much nitrogen, which is very undesirable. This process must be prevented by moistening the sawdust with a solution of carbamide (urea) or a solution of mullein (3 liters of mullein per 10 liters of water). For 3 buckets of sawdust you will need 10 liters of solution with mullein. For pre-treatment sawdust it is permissible to use and special solution: dissolve 150 g of superphosphate, 100 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of potassium chloride in 10 liters of water. When digging in autumn, it is enough to add half a bucket of sawdust every 1 m2.

During digging soil for a garden in newly developed areas of the non-chernozem strip, where it is necessary to create a humus layer, approximately half a bucket of organic fertilizers should be applied per 1 m2 of the cultivated area. In uncultivated, previously uncultivated areas, it is necessary to remove the roots of old plants from the soil, remove stumps and snags, and select stones. When processing such soil with a shovel or plow, it is necessary to cut it into thin layers and add an additional 3-4 cm of podzolized soil or subsoil rudyakov clay. During autumn digging, loosening materials and organic fertilizers should be incorporated into heavy clay soil in larger volumes than when cultivating cultivated land. Peat, manure, compost should be added at least half a bucket for every 1 m2, supplementing them wood ash.

At autumn processing virgin clay soil to organic fertilizers, you need to add 1 or 2, respectively liter jars large river sand and slaked lime.

Loam, river sand, fallen leaves, potassium and phosphorus should be added to the peat soil. Sufficient quantities must be added to such lands annually. organic fertilizers.

When incorporated into the soil, organic fertilizers or plant residues must be thoroughly mixed with the soil and covered with a layer of soil on top. This one is simple agricultural method will prevent the spread weeds, pests and pathogens of garden plants.

Acidic soils are neutralized by liming. The addition of lime reduces the acidity and fatigue of the soil, enriches it with calcium, thereby increasing fertility. After liming, heavy clay soils become looser, which significantly improves their water-air regime. Calcium in lime improves the structure and general properties soil. Liming activates the activity of various microorganisms that assimilate nitrogen or decompose organic matter. Improving air access to the roots favors the life of these microorganisms. Their activity helps improve plant nutrition. Due to the addition of lime, the yield of all vegetable crops increases.

The carried out liming improves the conditions for processing heavy soils, after which it is much easier to dig them up. After liming, light soils become moisture-absorbing, and the bonds between particles are strengthened.

Be sure to lime high marshy soils and add organic fertilizers to them. Low-lying marshy soils are not as acidic, but they still need to be limed.

Productive organs (mother plants) of biennial vegetable crops must be stored together with roots in winter in piles or storages, and in spring next year plant to obtain seeds.

Autumn liming of the soil is reliable prophylactic in the fight against wireworms: beetles with an elongated oval body up to approximately 15-16 mm long. The larvae of this beetle destroy many vegetable crops: cabbage, onions, carrots, beets, tomatoes, etc. appearance the beetles look like pieces of wire, which is why they got their name. They choose low-lying places to live, overwinter in the soil, and lay their eggs in it.

The amount of alkaline materials added to the soil depends on the calcium content in them, the degree of acidity of the soil and its mechanical composition: clay, loam or sand. At autumn liming use all kinds of alkaline materials, such as slaked lime, dolomite flour, wood and peat ash, chalk, meadow marl, ground limestone, cement dust, etc. Only very finely ground lime can be used to add to the soil. Therefore, it is advisable to sift through everything lime fertilizers before their immediate use. Experts recommend adding 0.5-1 kg of slaked lime for every 1 m2 of soil.

The main condition for liming is that the material chosen for it must be scattered evenly over the area. After applying it, the soil should turn white. Usually this event is done once every 5-6 years and only during autumn tillage.

It is quite acceptable to replace lime ash or use eggshells, which contain large number lime

The shells should be thoroughly crushed before embedding in the ground. Why do you need to put it in a strong, hard bag and trample on it? Carrots, cucumbers and cabbage prefer eggshell lime.

Ash reduces soil acidity, which is useful on light sandy and peaty soils. To reduce their acidity level, you can use ash from peat combustion (up to 7 kg of ash per 10 m2). From burning brushwood hardwood the resulting ash is more valuable than from the brushwood of coniferous trees.

Lime materials are not recommended to be added with fresh manure: with this proximity, a large amount of nitrogen is lost. If it is necessary to lim the soil, it is more advisable to transfer the application of organic fertilizers to spring period. Although liming materials such as dolomite and bone meal are quite compatible with manure. They can be applied during autumn tillage; they are especially good for sandy or sandy loam soils. On heavy clay soils it is preferable to carry out liming slaked lime. But in everything you need to observe moderation: with excessive liming, the soil can become neutral. If it becomes alkaline with a pH level above 7.5, plants begin to grow poorly.

Along with organic fertilizers, during autumn tillage it is necessary to add the necessary mineral additives. In heavy clay soil, it is recommended to annually add 1 or 1.5 buckets of coarse river sand for every 1 m2. Approximately the same volumes should be filled with peat chips.

During autumn processing peat soils need to be paid equal amount river sand and powdered dry clay. Although this technique requires high costs labor, but brings a significant effect. The introduction of significant volumes of sand and organic matter into the soil during autumn cultivation makes it possible to transform the top arable layer of clay soil 15-20 cm thick into loam within 5 years.

Mineral fertilizers it is more expedient to embed it in the ground, taking into account exactly what crops were grown in a particular area. Cabbage and potatoes absorb nitrogen and potassium from the soil, while radish prefers to extract almost all the phosphorus. Therefore, when cultivating the soil in autumn, it is necessary to apply various sets fertilizers for different areas.

Mineral fertilizers should be used with restrictions, at a very strict rate. When an excessive amount of mineral fertilizers is added to the soil, all microorganisms and earthworms die. Gradually, the yield in such areas sharply decreases. In addition, excess applied mineral fertilizers are harmful to humans.

During the autumn digging of the site, the addition of ash is of great benefit: it is a very valuable fertilizer and contains a lot of potassium and phosphorus. In addition, the ash contains calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese, sulfur and other elements beneficial for plants. As a mineral fertilizer, wood ash should be applied at a rate of 2-4 kg per 1 m2. You can sprinkle ash on the ground when cultivating it or place it in holes and furrows. But if the soil has been limed, then ash may not be added for 1-2 years.

Wood ash is a universal fertilizer that is recommended for use for all crops and is available to every gardener. Eggplants, zucchini, potatoes, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and pumpkin need it most. Many trees begin to bear fruit only after feeding them with wood ash. Dry ash does not lose its properties within many years storage However, wet ash loses almost all of its calcium. Therefore, ash should be placed in boxes or barrels for storage in a dry place.

In conditions high humidity densely planted plants often suffer from various fungal diseases; mosses and lichens can settle on the bark of branches of trees and shrubs.

Those vegetable crops and potatoes that are planted on acidic podzolic and sandy soils respond well to the addition of ash. For these crops, it is better to apply ash into holes and furrows as the main fertilizer.

However, under no circumstances is it permitted to use ash from peat or shale, if it has a rust color. It indicates that the ash contains harmful impurities. Particularly harmful is the ash from burned trees that grew on the sides of highways.

Ash can be replaced by additional addition of potassium sulfate to the soil. If the garden is planted on acidic soil, then it is advisable to apply approximately 150-200 kg of lime to the entire area. Ash also serves as a valuable prophylactic in the fight against many pests And diseases of vegetable crops. On light soils it is advisable to apply it in spring and summer. On clay soils, it is advisable to apply ash in the fall as well.

Many specialists and experienced gardeners believe that in order to receive good harvest it is quite enough to add vegetables to soil rotted manure or compost, ash, and also replenish in a timely manner garden plants liquid organic fertilizers.

It is important to make the irrigation system correctly, which, in principle, is not difficult and has already been discussed on the site.

On tired, depleted soil that needs loosening and enrichment with nitrogen, it is quite acceptable to sow leguminous plants: vetch, peas, lupine or beans - as intercrops. Yellow lupine grows better on light sandy soils, while white lupine prefers loamy soils with a neutral acid reaction.

If in soil too large volumes were applied on the site organic fertilizers, excess nitrates accumulate in it. You can relieve the soil of these unwanted substances by sowing winter rapeseed or mustard.

It is very important to attract earthworms to the garden, which process organic matter added to the soil into humus. At the same time, they release calcium carbonate, which reduces the acidity of the soil. Organic matter processed into humus becomes many times more beneficial for plants. It is well absorbed by the root system of plants.

It’s easy to set up a kind of “apartment” for worms: a small hole the depth of a shovel and an area of ​​1 m2 needs to be filled with plant waste, eggshell, food waste, mullein, manure or peat. The height of the pile should be approximately 30-40 cm, it should be slightly shaded from the sun. Earthworms They will rush to occupy the housing prepared for them. In addition, they are happy to settle on raised beds and work in them for the benefit of the gardener.