Preface

Preparing grapes for winter is the most important stage of their cultivation, since the speed of plant development, the number of berries and even their sweetness will depend on how properly you provide them with wintering. The preparatory process includes several steps, from pruning the grapes and reducing the amount of nitrogen fertilizers, to burying them in the ground and covering them with fiber.

How to do everything right, not harm the plant and protect it from low temperatures in winter - read on!

Grapes for the winter - we monitor the health of the vine in advance

Every gardener, even an amateur, knows that a weak and diseased vine will never survive the winter and is doomed to death. In order for the plant not to get sick and have excellent vitality, before the onset of frost it is necessary to take care of the maximum comfortable conditions its growth and ensure proper fertilizer root system. It is fertilizers that have the greatest influence on the strength of the vine and its readiness for wintering, since the grapes accumulate starch, organic substances and sugar, which do not allow them to freeze even in the deepest frosts. If the plant has not accumulated the necessary substances, then the risk of freezing is very high.

We also need to pay attention to grape diseases. If powdery mildew forms on it, fungus, mold, or the vine has been attacked by a pest, it is necessary to immediately, after collecting all the bunches (so as not to eat chemicals), treat it with continuous action fungicides. Any drugs, since the main thing is to destroy all biological activity on the plant and allow it to quietly accumulate nutrients.

Caring for the vine also includes treating it with copper sulfate in the fall. For this, a 5% solution is suitable, with which you need to generously spray the plant, or even better, dip it in the solution, if it is possible to do so. This helps to get rid of many pests and sterilize the vine so that nothing is disturbed while it is under the snow (or under an artificial “roof”).

From the first days of spring, you need to make sure that the bushes are not too dense, otherwise they will have low vitality, and each shoot will not be able to absorb required amount minerals and salts.

Grape pruning

Sheltering grapes for the winter is impossible without quality pruning for several reasons. Firstly, it should be noted that a large amount of material and labor will be required to bury 7-8 meter shoots. It is better to shorten them to 2-3 meters, so that it is convenient to tilt them to the ground and cover them with special agrofibre or cover them with earth. You need to prune not only for convenience, but also for the health of the plant itself. The stem accumulates useful substances, the outflow of which occurs from annual shoots to the productive part of the bush and roots. Thus, you cannot prune the shoots immediately after fruiting, as some gardeners do.

The optimal time for pruning is the first frost. It is then that the sap stops moving and the period of “hibernation” begins. You can safely remove annual shoots - they will still freeze and dry out in the spring. Absolutely everything is cut off to the hardened part, you can leave another 20-30 centimeters at your own risk, but it is not a fact that this area will overwinter. Only perennial wood is thick enough to survive icing. The winter hardiness of the bush will increase significantly if the area is protected from the wind, since it is this that affects the icing of the stem. Icing restricts oxygen supply and prevents the plant from breathing, causing areas to die (even perennial wood).

Choosing a vine that will overwinter is quite simple. This can be done visually. Its thickness should be at least 10-15 mm, if less, it’s better not to risk it.

Next we look at the core of the vine. If it occupies from 90 to 60% of the area, then there is no chance of surviving prolonged cold weather. It is necessary that the core occupies no more than 40-50% of the volume, then we can say that all vital “organs” will be reliably hidden from the cold. The remaining thin stems can be safely cut out.

How to preserve grapes for the winter - the harm and benefits of fertilizing

Many will be sincerely surprised that fertilizers can do a lot of harm, especially early varieties. It is known that nitrogen fertilizers have too good an effect on the development of the vegetative mass, especially at ambient temperatures above +15 0 C. Thus, the mass increase can be up to 1% per day or more, and the surface of the vine does not have time to harden and remains “young” for several months. As a result, the shoots may freeze when low temperatures, and their growth stops only 1-2 months after the end of feeding with nitrogen-containing substances.

To prevent this from happening, and for the stem to harden and form a strong bark that would protect it from low temperatures, it is necessary to finish fertilizing with liquid and granular fertilizers 3-4 months before the onset of cold weather. That is, as soon as the vineyard stops producing fruit (or better a month before), it is necessary to stop the application of ammonium nitrate and phosphate fertilizers.

But do not confuse phosphorus and nitrogen fertilizers with organic ones, which will only benefit the root system and stems. They nourish the necessary substances and warm the roots as a result chemical processes, occurring during slow decomposition organic matter. At the end of October, it is necessary to add up to 5-10 kg of humus under each bush, and do this in such a way that all the lateral roots do not come into direct contact with it, but have a ball of soil 5-6 centimeters from the humus. Otherwise, they may simply burn out in the spring when high temperature. In any case, if you filled the area with organic fertilizers, in the spring you need to pour everything in generously so that the substances are absorbed evenly into the soil and do not cause harm.

Construction of winter shelters and their features

When constructing winter shelters, the main thing to understand is simple thing– frost is not as bad as ice, which makes it impossible to breathe. Even in the most severe frosts, a raspberry tree can remain unharmed if it was in a secluded place and “breathed.” Therefore, there is no point in digging large trenches; it is enough to simply sprinkle earth on top or cover the vine.

No one can tell you exactly when and how to insulate grapes for the winter, since there is only one the right decision for this task. Everyone uses the method that is most popular in his latitude. In many cases, they begin to cover when average daily temperature at - 5 o C degrees - this is the ideal period, according to 60% of surveyed gardeners. What needs to be taken into account and what to pay attention to?

1. Duration of stay under winter shelter should be minimal. The more it is buried under soil, fabric and other types of insulating layers, the weaker the bunches will be in the spring. Nature does not provide for covering grapes, and they need constant access to air; in the ground they are affected by bacteria, begin to rot and simply “suffocate” over time. The sooner you dig it up and the later you bury it, the faster the young shoots will develop and the clusters will form.
2. It is not enough to accumulate starch for the wintering period; it is necessary for it to crystallize into sugar. Only sugar syrup, which is formed when starch is exposed to sub-zero temperatures, can save the plant. It works like antifreeze in a car - it prevents the entire “mechanism” from freezing even at -20 0C. What should be done? Just let it sit in the cold for a few days. After this, you can cover and bury.
3. Do not cover with film. Do not under any circumstances use polyethylene materials for winter shelter.. Cells stop breathing and die. It is also worth considering that there will be a greenhouse effect under the film: under the sun, the buds will germinate and immediately die at night at sub-zero temperatures. It’s better to leave it without any shelter at all than under film - so at least there will be a chance of survival.
4. It is impossible to cover the vine early. If she gets into warm earth, it can germinate, after which severe frosts will destroy the buds.

There are a large number of options for how to cover for the winter, from the most labor-intensive and time-consuming to five-minute ones. Let's look at several ways to build wintering “houses”:

1. A method for the lazy. We bend the branches to the floor, cover them with a polypropylene bag or agrofibre on top and press them down with bricks. Actually, nothing more is needed. You can also add some earth around the edge.
2. A method for amateurs earthworks. We dig a hole 30-40 centimeters deep and the length of the entire stem, after which we place the vine in it and bury it. Throw another 20-25 centimeters of soil on top so that no frost finds your treasure. If you still have the strength and desire, you can also throw some soil on top of the roots so that they too will be warm and comfortable on cold winter nights.
3. A way for lovers of modern architecture. If you couldn't make a beautiful one landscape design during the warm season - you have the opportunity to do it now! We wrap the tied and erect stem in agrofibre, burlap or other breathable material. Thus, you get a beautiful “ekibana” of impressive size! Not pretty enough? You can paint such a “structure” white or black - in an original way. Guests will definitely appreciate your taste, and the style will be reminiscent of European (they decorate every element in small yards, including plants prepared for winter)!
4. A method for gardeners who grow a lot of tops. If the bush is very large and has thin stems in the fall, the easiest way is to twist them into a spiral and then tie them. Drive 4 sticks around the bush, wrap them around with agrofibre or even mineral wool(some people prefer to use fiberglass). Imagine yourself as a silkworm and make a beautiful cocoon around the bush! With a “cocoon” wall thickness of 1-2 mm, the plant is not afraid of any frost!

There are many more ways to preserve grapes in winter, but these are the most popular and proven by many gardeners. Summer residents and gardeners also use special insulation materials, but then the design turns out to be relatively expensive (besides, it is disposable and next year it will have to be thrown away). Therefore, there is no need to consider this method. If you do everything correctly according to this guide, then next year you can confidently count on a good and delicious harvest berries!

Do I need to prune grapes for the winter and how to properly cover them? Various varieties grapes tolerate winters differently middle zone Russia, not to mention the more northern regions. Roots European varieties are damaged when the soil temperature drops to -5...-7°C, buds - at -18...-20°C, young shoots - at -22°C, and old wood - at -20...-25 °C. European-Amur and European-American hybrids withstand more than low temperatures. The roots are damaged at -9...-12°C, and the buds can withstand short-term frosts of -23...-30°C.

There are varieties that are mainly used for vertical gardening gazebos, open terraces. For example, such as Alpha (popularly called Isabella), Taiga emerald and others, endure ordinary winters without significant damage and without shelter.

If the grape varieties grown for berries, then they should be covered for the winter.

Preparing bushes for overwintering starts with a preliminary autumn pruning and removing the vine from the support. All fruit shoots with shoots growing on them are cut out. On shoots grown on replacement branches, the immature part (with green bark), as well as stepsons and tendrils are removed. After this, it is advisable to treat the bushes with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

Sheltering begins with the onset of stable frosts on a dry, clear day. The easiest way is to pour a layer of mulching materials up to 20 cm (sawdust, peat, compost or humus) under each bush. The bush is removed from its support, the vines are tied into a bundle, bent down and fixed with metal or wooden arches at the soil surface. It is advisable to lay it under the vine spruce spruce branches, pieces of boards, dry stalks of sunflower, corn or film. The bushes cover the top various materials: synthetic padding polyethylene foam, straw, spruce spruce branches.

A film or roofing material is spread over the insulation in case of thaws and rain, so that moisture does not penetrate inside the shelter.

The ends under the roofing felt or film are left open until it gets very cold so that the vine can breathe and condensation does not accumulate.

You need to put poisonous baits for mice.

What to do with young shoots?

Before covering, the unripe part of the shoots, stepsons and tendrils are removed, and in the spring they are pruned, creating sleeves, fruit links, fruit shoots, a replacement knot or a restoration knot, depending on the location of shoot growth.

In a rather harsh Russian climate Preparing grapes for winter becomes a very difficult task.

In order to reap a good harvest, the grape “breeder” must define a list for himself in advance necessary procedures, perform them correctly, while choosing the most suitable time for them. An error in timing threatens with damping off or freezing of the grape bushes, and therefore their death.

Preparing grapes for winter cold is an important and serious process. How easily the grape bushes will survive the winter depends on caring for them throughout the season. Weak, sickly grapes with poorly ripened wood will not be able to survive the winter. Therefore, starting from early spring, he needs ongoing care and attention.

1. Carefully select varieties suitable for your region;
2. The bushes must be absolutely healthy;
3. Regularly thin out the vineyard, removing damaged and unnecessary branches;
4. Remember that the more harvest a bush produces, the longer its wood will ripen, so adjust the number of bunches;
5. Periodically feed the grapes with ash and potassium - this accelerates the ripening of the wood;
6. From mid-summer, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the plant’s energy is directed to the formation of green mass that is now unnecessary;
7. Don't neglect the autumn coinage.

How to properly prepare a vineyard

Vine health

A strong and healthy vineyard will endure winter frosts much more painless. This is due to the fact that the vine will not be weakened by various pathogenic organisms located on it or in the soil at the shelter site.

Therefore, before wintering, the vineyard must be thoroughly inspected and all shoots affected must be removed. harmful insects and diseases.

Afterwards, carefully treat the vine with special fungicides; they not only easily cope with pathogenic microflora, but also certain time prevent them reappearance. Good results gives spraying it with a 3-5% solution of iron or copper sulfate.

Try to carry out the treatment immediately after pruning so that the healing liquid gets to every part of the vine.

Immediately before wintering, treat the vineyard with the same solution.

Strong vineyard

Powerful, well-prepared bushes can more easily withstand low temperatures, so you should take care of its vitality. It is no secret that in order to maintain any life process, the vine spends a certain amount of nutritional reserves accumulated before wintering.

The lion's share of them is wasted for winter period when the plant is in shelter. Moreover, during the development period in the spring, it also needs energy, since the growth of new shoots occurs thanks to these reserves.

This means that for a safe winter and a safe spring awakening, the vineyard must be very strong. Therefore, all season he needs regular feeding, both organic and mineral.

Ripened vine

By winter, only well-ripened vines should be present on each grape bush. It can be distinguished by its characteristic brown color, sufficient thickness and bark, it should remain warm enough even with the onset of the first cold weather.

Healthy vines with a thickness of 6-13 mm, with a core occupying less than 1/3 of the diameter of the stem, ripen well and survive the winter cold. They contain a sufficient amount nutrients.

Fresh wood that has not yet gained strength must be completely removed. In winter, it will die in any case, but until that moment it will consume nutrients and take them from the bush. As a result, in the spring the bush may suffer from nutritional deficiency.

Moreover, weak shoots can provoke the appearance of all kinds of diseases under cover. As a result, the entire plant may suffer.

The ripening process is influenced by many factors. This includes the load on the wood, the intensity of its nutrition, and the correctness of sanitary treatments.

The ripening of vines can be significantly accelerated by using potash fertilizers. Wood ash and potassium sulfate, which does not contain chlorine, are excellent; both regular watering and foliar spraying will be effective.

For one adult bush you need 30 grams of potassium dissolved in a bucket of water, or 1 liter of ash, also infused for several days in a bucket of ordinary water.

At the same time, from the second half of summer, completely abolish nitrogen fertilizers, which provoke active growth of the plant and negatively affect the ripening of the bunches and saturation of its vital energy.

Coinage

Good help can be provided to bushes in such a way as autumn chasing. It involves cutting off most of the top of the shoot, leaving only 15 bottom sheets, everything else is simply cut off. This procedure stops growth and directs nutrients into the berry clusters, from where they are then spent on the ripening process of the vine.

Particular attention should be paid to the timing of minting. Pruning is done at the moment when the growth of shoots comes to naught; if you remove them earlier, even for a few days, the reverse process may begin - the growth of stepchildren is activated. Define optimal time quite simple for minting.

As you know, fresh branches grow curved, then their growth slows down and they straighten. Take a closer look at the bush; if half of its shoots are curved and half are straightened, then you are allowed to start pruning.

Chasing is not a necessary technique, especially if your vines have time to ripen without its use. In some regions, it is impossible to accurately determine the moment when a vineyard stops growing, and this is fraught with errors.

Autumn pruning of the vine

In fact, the issue of pruning is quite ambiguous - it depends on the growing region and weather conditions, variety, timing of ripening and harvesting. But in general there are general recommendations:

• Autumn pruning should not be carried out immediately after harvesting - this can seriously weaken the bushes, which means leaving it to winter time without an impressive supply of nutrients. This can be explained by the fact that grapes spend too much energy to ripen the berries, and if you cut off the entire productive part immediately after harvesting, then it will not have the opportunity to stock up on food. If you give the vineyard time to recuperate and only then remove excess shoots, it will go into winter prepared and strong.
• It is best to do pruning immediately after the leaves fall or when the first frost arrives. It is then that in shrubs nutrients pass into mature wood and roots.

Shelter of grape bushes

The very last, but by no means less significant step in preparing grapes for winter is the construction of proper shelter.

First of all, you need to figure out when to cover the vineyard. This definitely needs to be done no earlier than frost sets in (5-6 degrees below zero). It is advisable to keep the grape bushes under cover as little as possible; do not stay in the shelter for too long. good for the plant for good.

The success of wintering grapes most often depends on the quality of their hardening than on the shelter.

In fact, standard processes occur inside the plant - due to a decrease in temperature, the vine hardens, the liquid inside it concentrates in the intercellular space, starch turns into sugar, and accordingly, the internal liquid becomes syrup.

It is this syrup that prevents the juices inside the cells from freezing and, accordingly, damaging root system and vine. The conclusion suggests itself - hardening is the most important stages in preparing grapes for winter.

Covering the vineyard too early threatens to increase the temperature in its “winter home,” which means damping out of the vines and the development of fungal diseases.

The optimal time to start building a shelter is when upper layer the soil will freeze slightly. The vine is tied in advance, preferably two or three after pruning, and pinned to the ground. It is convenient if the covering material is somewhere nearby, so that if necessary, you can quickly cover the vineyard.

Place dry soil under the grape bushes organic material, such as spruce branches, straw or foliage. Place wooden shields over the vines so that there is a little free space around them.

Cover the top of the shields with polyethylene, roofing felt, tarpaulin or any waterproof material. The shelter should be breathable, light, and warm. Insulate everything on top with rags or a thin layer of earth.

It is advisable to leave the edge of the shelter slightly open until the onset of stable cold weather. south side. This way the grapes will be ventilated and will not dry out. In the spring, as soon as the air temperature rises above zero, the covering material is removed and the vines are tied to a trellis.

The grapes should be sent to winter hardened, cleaned, disinfected, pruned, well “fed” and securely covered. Only in this case will your grapes not only survive the winter successfully, but will also delight you with an excellent harvest.

30.08.2017 12 060

Caring for grapes in autumn is the key good harvest!

Proper care of grapes in the fall allows you to make the vine stronger against frost and provide a rich harvest next year. Spraying, pruning for the winter, treatment against diseases and pests, and others are necessary. important events. In addition, you need to consider whether you are young or old bush, where it grows, in the Urals and Siberia, Moscow region, Leningrad region or in Kuban, in the Stavropol Territory? Only a full range of measures will protect against unforeseen circumstances...

Watering grapes in the fall - why and how correctly?

Caring for grapes in the fall is designed to restore the plant after fruiting; it includes spraying the vine, fertilizing, pruning and covering for the winter. After the harvest, the grapes no longer need as much moisture as during the ripening of the grapes, but you still cannot stop watering, especially if the fall is dry and hot.

The soil must remain moist so that the plant can grow stronger and gain strength after fruiting for a good winter. A vine growing in sandy soil needs to be watered little by little; clay soil prefers rare but abundant watering.

The frequency of watering is affected climate zone, weather conditions, burial depth groundwater and many other factors. In any case, the soil must be properly moistened before wintering. Some gardeners dig ditches near the bushes to water the root system as much as possible. After watering, the soil near the base of the vine is loosened. A well-watered bush will withstand the winter better.

Caring for grapes in autumn - feeding the vines

Caring for grapes in the fall also includes spraying the vines and fertilizing. Bushes that are weakened after the harvest need to be fed so that they have time to regain strength and prepare for wintering.

When feeding grapes, the main thing is not to overdo it. If fertilizer was applied to the hole when planting grapes, the next one can be applied in 2-4 years, when the vine begins to bear fruit. Grapes are fertilized in small doses in the spring, during the growing season.

It is best to mulch the vine with organic fertilizers - humus, compost and peat mixed in equal quantities. From mineral fertilizers preference should be given to monosyllabic ones - potassium, phosphorus. It has great importance, because sufficiency nutrients makes the vine strong and resistant to frost, which is very important for many regions of the country, for example, the Urals and Siberia.

Fertilizer is applied to holes dug about 50 cm in diameter around the base of the vine. It is necessary to dig four holes, lay down fertilizer and dig in the hole. It is best to immediately wrap the plant for wintering.

Treatment of grapes in autumn against pests and diseases

Can be an excellent protection against mold slaked lime. To prepare the solution, 1 kg of the substance is diluted in three liters of water; when the extinguishing process is completed, the amount is adjusted to 10 liters and the treatment is carried out using a sprayer and brushes. To destroy the larvae, the soil around the bush needs to be dug up to 15-20 cm.

Before wrapping, be sure to inspect the foliage for ticks, leaf rollers, powdery mildew, other insects and infections. If at least one leaf is damaged, to avoid the spread of infection, it is necessary to urgently treat the entire vine and nearby bushes. Drugs such as Polychom, Rovikurt are used.

Autumn pruning of grapes - calculating the timing and timing

Necessary to increase the quantity and improve the quality of grapes, as well as the endurance and resistance of the bushes to various factors. Thanks to the procedure, ripening occurs much faster, the berries gain significantly in size and taste qualities Oh. In addition, autumn occurs for spring planting.

Pruning grapes in the fall, before winter, is preferable to spring, since in the spring the bush wakes up and begins to prepare for the growing season - at this time the plant will spend energy on healing wounds rather than on growth, which affects the quality of the crop; if the procedure is carried out carelessly, the bush can simply ruin. In summer, the vine is not pruned, but the shoots are pinched, excess foliage is removed to ensure access of the sun to the edges and air to the trunk, and excess branches are removed.

Pruning of the plant is carried out from the first ten days of September, but this period is relative, as it depends on the climate of grape growing, weather conditions, etc. In the Moscow region autumn care picking grapes begins in mid-September, as in Ukraine. Varieties such as Cardinal, Vostorg, Kuban are not only popular in these regions, but also require virtually no treatment for diseases.

In Siberia pruning grapevine produced both in autumn and spring. From mid-September, winegrowers actively stimulate the ripening of the new vine: they clear the base of the bush, thin it out, cut off the foliage and tendrils, leaving everything except the stepchildren with the one-year-old stepsons. The main stage of pruning is carried out after the first frost, starting to strip the bush from the root. The grapes are covered in Siberia at a temperature of -5 °C.

How to prune grapes - basic rules

Trimming young grapes in the fall it consists of leaving 3 to 8 sleeves on the bush and does not require any special skills. Pruning old grapes in the fall can be a challenge for beginners, so you need to stick to a specific pattern. The entire process of pruning grapes is divided into three stages:

- in mid-September it is necessary to remove all side shoots growing up to the first wire (50-60 cm from the ground). The branches that grew between the first and second wires (30 cm from the first) are cut off by 15% of the growth. The process is called "minting". All lateral stepsons growing on these branches are shortened to the second bud

— in mid-October, the second stage of pruning begins: the formation of a replacement knot and a bottom branch. Less frost-resistant grape varieties should be pruned first. Two shoots are selected between the first and second wire. One is left with inside vines and cut into three eyes. This will be the replacement branch. The outer shoot is left as a fruit shoot and cut to:

• 5 ovaries with a branch diameter of 5 mm
• 6 - with a diameter of 6 mm
• 9-11 eyes for a 9 mm branch
• 11-13 with a vine of 10 mm
• 13-15 for a diameter of 12 mm

In general, there is a rule - the number of eyes is equal to the diameter of the shoot plus 1-2 spare ones. As a result, healthy, large trunks and sleeves with buds should remain. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish. The stage of caring for grapes in the fall, pruning for the winter, is over. If you do not plan to plant grapes in the fall, you can simply prepare cuttings for planting in the spring and begin processing the vines. In addition, you need to remember to protect the vines from unpleasant weather conditions.

Caring for grapes in the fall is not difficult. Having mastered simple rules In theory, it’s quite possible to start practicing. May your vineyard be healthy and your harvest bountiful.

In autumn, the grapevine needs especially careful care.

She has already devoted all her energy to ripening the harvest, and the main task of the winegrower is to properly prepare the crop for the winter rest.

Surely, you have heard more than once that grapes froze in one area, but overwintered well in the next one.

Why does this depend, really, only on the variety? No, not only. How fruitful will the work be in the vineyard in autumn period, so the efforts of the winegrower will be rewarded.

And it’s probably not worth advising what to do with the rich harvest.

First about watering

Like any fruit crops, grapes need more watering during the ripening period. However, you can’t overdo it either.

Due to excess moisture during large quantity precipitation causes the berries on the vine to burst, which reduces their taste qualities and attractive appearance. In addition, such berries are no longer stored for a long time; they should be immediately processed and juiced or left to ferment to obtain wine or grape vinegar.

Don't forget that on sandy soils Bushes should be watered more often, but with a smaller volume of liquid; on heavy clay soils, on the contrary, watering is carried out less frequently, but more abundantly.

The timing and frequency of irrigation are determined by the climate in the region where the vineyards grow, which determines the temperature and humidity of the air, the intensity of the winds, the depth of groundwater and the timing of frost.

However, wherever the vineyard is planted, in mid-autumn it is necessary to thoroughly saturate the soil with moisture. Sometimes for this purpose they equip narrow grooves so that the water penetrates exactly under the roots of the bush, and does not spill around.

After watering it is advisable loosen the soil around the bush for better air penetration and moisture retention for longer long term. Such events contribute better stability frosty grapes.

Secondly, fertilizing grapes

After harvesting, the vine becomes completely weakened, so it requires intensive feeding to maintain strength during the winter and to lay new potential for the next fruiting.

Exactly from autumn feeding The condition of the grapes after frost and how much harvest you will collect from the bush next season will depend. To provide all the necessary substances, the vineyard is fertilized with organic matter - compost or rotted manure.

No need to dig soils for fertilizing. You can limit yourself to mulching around the base of the grapes.

For best results, add to fertilizers wood ash. To increase the calcium content in the soil on the site, you need to pour about 150 g of lime under each grape bush and dig the soil to a depth of 20–25 cm.

Fertilizing mature grapes should be done once every three to four years. If the bush has just been planted and fertilizing has been applied, then in the next four years it will fertilizing is not recommended.

When and what exactly should you feed the vineyard with? Knowledgeable winegrowers once every three years, at the end of autumn, fertilize with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. Usually this is a mixture consisting of 25 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq.m.

Also, soil on an area of ​​1 sq.m. around the grape bush, water with a mixture of fertilizers consisting of 20 g of aqueous extract of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt diluted in water.

With this watering, the soil should be saturated at least 20–25 cm deep. These fertilizers can also be used in dry form along with digging up the soil. If the soil is severely depleted and needs additional elements, then about 2.5 g should be added to the specified mixture boric acid, 2 g of zinc sulfate, 5 g of ammonium molybdate or 1 g of potassium iodine and up to 2.5 g of manganese sulfate.

Such thorough feeding will be the key to successful wintering of grape bushes. At the beginning of autumn it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding, this will contribute to the rapid ripening of the grapevine.

We trim our bush in the fall

Well, now it’s time for trimming. Why subject the bush to this manipulation?

• After the procedure, the bush is rejuvenated and produces a harvest much richer and larger than unpruned grapes;
• The crop ripens significantly faster, since the shoots are young and contain goes better sap flow;
• more resistant protection against severe frosts;
• the bush is easier to care for and protect from frost, diseases and pests;
• preventing the spread of diseases and insect pests further throughout the vineyard by pruning diseased and infected shoots.

This procedure can be started only after the grapes have entered a dormant state, that is, several weeks after all the leaves have fallen from the bush. Until this moment, the process of photosynthesis is still quite active in the vine.

Pruning too early will result in the grape bush not having enough nutrients for a successful winter and further fruiting. However, some winegrowers believe The start date for pruning is mid-September. This mainly depends on the climate of the region and the proximity of frost.

If you delay too much and start after the first frost, then when manipulating the vine it may break off. in an unnecessary place, because the bark becomes too brittle from the cold.

When pruning, first of all, diseased and dried branches are removed, which must be collected in one place and burned to prevent the spread of spores and pest larvae further throughout the vineyard.

Then excess shoots are removed to create correct form bush. At the same time, we should not forget that on the vine it is necessary to leave, in addition to healthy main branches, shoots that perform a reserve function for the formation of grapes.

There are several pruning criteria that should be followed if you are afraid of harming your vineyard with unnecessary manipulations.

• You should not take into account the lower two buds on the vine, they are not yet developed enough;
• In early September, it is necessary to cut out all the young side branches on the old branches. Precisely those that reached the wire located 60cm from the soil level;
• Green branches that have reached the wire, located 30 cm from the ground, we cut only the top, namely up to 15% total length escape. Side shoots cut out, leaving no more than two leaves on them;
• In mid-autumn, October, a fruit link is formed, consisting of a fruit arrow and a replacement knot. To plant it correctly, we take several strong shoots that have reached the second wire. We cut off the one located below, leaving only 3 eyes - this will be the replacement knot. We cut off the shoot on top so that about 6 buds remain on it - this will be the fruit arrow;
• in mid-September, all shoots that have reached 20 cm are cut out;
• shoots that have grown more than 30 cm in length are pruned by 10%;
• For one-year-old branches, all excess shoots are cut off, leaving only those located at an angle of 90 degrees. For a healthy and strong bush, you need to have up to seven pieces of such sleeves;
• After this, the dried top is cut off.

All places of cuts and manipulations on the grape bush must be cover with garden varnish, to avoid rotting processes.

You should not remove shoots too actively. You should always remember about the reserve, which may well be needed in the spring, after frost damage has been accurately determined. For correct formation It is advisable to leave 1/3 more branches of the bush.

In spring, the shape of the vineyard is finally adjusted.

Disease and pest control

If the grapes are not treated for diseases and insects in the fall, then they will go to winter along with this “baggage.” Therefore, it is worth taking care of the health of the bush.

Most affordable option leaf treatment is spraying with soda-salt solution.

Recipe simple - for 1 standard bucket of water 10 tablespoons table salt+ 5 tablespoons of baking soda.

The entire bush is treated with the resulting warm solution from a spray bottle, starting from the ground at the base and ending with the top of the vine. It is important not to miss a single leaf. This procedure is carried out at least three to four times on the 15th–20th of October.

All old manuals on viticulture mention the processing of bushes DNOC solution or Nitrofen preparation. You will not find them on sale, since they are now prohibited by law.

To treat vines against infection by fungal and mold spores, winegrowers currently use spraying with solutions of iron and copper sulfate. But first, the bush needs to be prepared.

First, autumn sanitary pruning of grapes is carried out. Afterwards, the entire vine is placed on the soil and pinned.

The entire bush is sprayed with a pre-prepared solution of iron sulfate in a ratio of 400 g of powder per 10 liters of water or a solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water).

It should be noted that The copper sulfate solution must be warm, approximately plus 40–50 degrees.

Only after the solution on the surface of the bush has completely dried will it be possible to begin insulating it for the winter.

Very often in vineyards you can see leaves with white streaks. This is explained by the fact that the vine was treated with a solution of slaked lime. This type of protection is quite common due to its effectiveness in controlling pests and mold in winter, even during thaws.

Preparation advice - dilute 1 kg of quicklime in 3 liters of water and only when the slaking process is completed, the resulting volume of liquid is brought to 10 liters. All grape leaves are treated with the resulting whitewash. This can be done using not only a sprayer, but also a brush, whisk, or brush.

To avoid re-infestation of grape bushes by pests, the soil between the rows must be dug up deeply. Thanks to this, the wintering grounds of insect larvae and caterpillars are destroyed, and the risk of spreading infection is reduced.

Protecting grapes from frost

If you want the vineyard to suffer as little as possible from frost, it should be properly insulated. There are different methods for this - from simply wrapping it in film, to burying the bush in the ground along its entire length.

There are also grape varieties that do not require additional measures for protection from frost, but this mainly depends on the climate of the region where the grapevine grows. Very coldy capable of destroying a vineyard.

Most good option insulation is cover with pine and spruce branches or as they are also called, spruce branches. Air circulates well through such protection, which prevents rotting and disease development. In addition, the branches perfectly retain snow cover, which creates an ideal environment for overwintering the bush.

The time to warm the bush for winter comes immediately after feeding and pruning the vine, in late October - early November. If you start covering too late, the vine can be damaged - due to the cold, the bark becomes quite fragile.

Work on laying the shape of grapes is carried out taking into account that in winter the vine can be easily tilt and cover with soil, without risk of damage. Sometimes the bush is not bent to the ground, then it can be pruned arbitrarily.

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