Arrangement of doors to the basement from the street. Let's start making the door. Self-production of a metal hatch

03.09.2016 15926

Storage of homemade products and organic fruits and vegetables from personal personal plot remains relevant. For this purpose, people use the cellar. It is important to understand that storing food requires strict adherence to temperature (+2 to +5 degrees) and humidity conditions.

The cellar can be located in the basement or be separate - the choice of thermal insulation method directly depends on this. It is better if the cellar is insulated during the construction of the house, but this does not always happen. Even in an already rebuilt room, you can arrange a warm and dry storage facility with your own hands.

Door defects

The following defects of cellar doors are considered common: dried out canvas, impaired heat transfer due to noticeable cracks on the surface, freezing during severe frosts.

Reasons for cold and moisture entering the cellar:

• insufficient quality of fabric;
• installation errors;
• violation of the integrity of the canvas by rodents;
• long-term operation.

The door leaf to the cellar is made of wood, plastic or metal. It is advisable to install a plastic cellar if it leads to storage from another room, for example, a garage. The same advice applies to wooden entrance structure. The best option To enter the cellar from the street, a metal door is considered.

Cellar insulation methods

In order for the cellar to maintain the required temperature, in addition to insulating the walls and ceilings, it is necessary to insulate the front door.

Stages of insulation work

1. The fabric is removed from the hinges.
2. The fittings are unscrewed.
3. Deleted old layer sheathing with insulation.
4. The insulation method is selected depending on the base material.
5. The insulation is attached to the canvas.
6. The canvas is covered with a decorative coating

Thermal vestibule

The most effective option is to install a thermal vestibule with a depth of 60-80 cm and a width corresponding to the dimensions of the door. This design allows you to enter the cellar by opening the doors one at a time, which will prevent direct penetration of cold air. If it is not possible to build a vestibule, then install a second frame door with insulation 30 cm from the first.

The frame is made of timber, sheathed with penofol and TsPVS mesh, which protects against rodents getting inside. The structure is sewn up on top with laminated hardboard or other available material. Necessarily . This is done using a foam roller or self-adhesive insulation. old door structure It is enough to sheathe it with insulation and cover it with a decorative covering.

Insulating cracks around the door perimeter

In order to seal the gaps between the frame and the door, you will need a knife, glue, and special insulation.

The perimeter of the canvas is carefully sealed with a sealant. If it is not available, it is acceptable to use foam rubber. The process is simple, quick, and does not require financial costs, but guaranteeing a long-term effect.

Insulating a wooden door

In the vast majority of cases, the door to the cellar is made from edged boards, folded into a solid shield. No matter how hard you try, in such a fabric there will still be gaps at the joints of the boards, increasing thermal conductivity. To avoid this, it is important to make it as uniform as possible by caulking and blocking the holes.

Using a screwdriver and a spatula, tamp the insulation tightly into the cracks (you can use jute tape), insert tow, and cut off the excess. Instead of tow, use special mounting foam or other sealant, carefully blown into the holes.

Apply a thick layer of wood putty on top, spread it with a spatula, and leave to dry. After this, the wooden cellar door is sanded and painted in the chosen color.

Insulation of a metal door

If a metal cellar door is chosen for insulation, then it requires a special approach. Factory insulated models are offered on the market, but they are expensive, so they are not purchased for cellars.

Protozoa metal doors hollow inside. After they were removed from the hinges, then the structure was dismantled, layers of insulation were laid inside, between the stiffening ribs. For this purpose they use available material: foam rubber, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam or basalt insulation. The choice of sealant depends on the financial condition of the user and his wishes. Options with mineral wool and foam rubber, more expensive - with polyurethane foam and polyurethane foam.

If you decide to put foam plastic inside, then first cut it to size, then spread it with construction glue or liquid nails, apply to the canvas, press down. The gaps are carefully filled with foam.

If the issue of saving is important, then it is better to insulate the entrance to the cellar with mineral wool - a cheap and effective material. However, it cannot be compacted: this threatens loss beneficial properties. In addition, it is important to remember that cotton wool is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, so it is covered with an additional layer of foil or film on top.

Expanded polystyrene, which has a light weight and dense structure, is considered the most progressive insulation. It is characterized by durability, as well as low susceptibility to moisture absorption, which eliminates the greenhouse effect inside basement.

When insulating, be sure to use a sealant. In the case of a cellar door, it is advisable to use a rubber one, which is characterized by wear resistance.

If the door cannot be disassembled, the insulation is glued to the inside of the door. The material can be self-adhesive or attached with glue.

How to insulate a box

The box is insulated by filling the profile special solution or bulk substance through drilled holes. In case it freezes metal pipe, which is the basis for the stiffeners, then its core is filled with polyurethane foam. To do this, holes are drilled in the profile of such a size that the gun nozzle fits through them.

Due to impracticality, it is used extremely rarely in the cellar. Insulating the doors in the cellar is an urgent need if you plan to store supplies for a long time and in compliance with the regime.

A staircase and a door are the most comfortable and easiest way to enter the basement in a private house. Unlike a hatch, a large opening will allow you to descend without bending, bring in and take out large objects, and reduce the likelihood of injury.

The door to the basement can be external or internal:

• external - entrance to the basement from the street;
• internal - the entrance is made from the room; to get into the basement, you do not need to go outside.

Both options have their advantages and disadvantages. If the entrance to the basement is made from the street, then the door is best made of metal. This material resists the vagaries of nature well, it is durable and strong, which means it will better resist burglary.

The internal door to the basement is most often made from wood materials. It is aesthetically more attractive, lighter, and does not require a massive box.

Doors to the basement can be purchased ready-made. Front doors or balcony doors, and in some cases, interior ones. You can also make them yourself; this requires metalworking or carpentry tools and skills in working with metal or wood.

Metal constructions

The steel structure is durable, not afraid of low and high temperatures, vandal-resistant, tolerates high humidity well.

This is an excellent choice if the entrance to the basement is from the street.

Simple steel door you can do it yourself in the basement. For this you will need:

• sheet steel - 2-4 mm of the corresponding area;
• corner, channel or profile pipe for the frame and the box, the metal thickness and cross-sectional dimensions are selected in accordance with the thickness and area of ​​the main sheet;
• massive loops;
• lock;
• pens.

From the tool you will need welding machine, angle grinder with metal discs and a cleaning brush, drill, tape measure, ruler.

When buying metal at the base, you can order a cutting service, this will cost inexpensively, and will allow you to avoid this work with your own hands, get a high-quality cut and an exact fit to the dimensions.

But to do this, you need to know these dimensions, so it would be a good idea to first take measurements from the opening and prepare a sketch.

It is better to make the box 2-3 cm smaller than the opening so that there are no problems with installation; the gaps can then be filled with polyurethane foam. And the canvas is 3-4 mm smaller than the frame so that the doors open easily. A regular foam rubber seal will save you from drafts.

After cutting, you can start assembling. To do this you will need some free space and Smooth surface. First, the frame is assembled, and it is important to carefully maintain the corners so that distortions do not occur. Then the canvas is welded to the frame. At the end, the lock, handles and hinges are attached.

After assembly, it would be a good idea to paint the doors. First, rust is removed with a metal brush, then a primer is applied and finally paint.

If there are no special requirements for appearance, then you can limit yourself to a primer.

Wooden structures

You can make only the simplest doors with your own hands without carpentry and carpentry skills.

The material you can use is pine, spruce, oak and other varieties.

In any case, the wood must be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptic agents. Wooden box It’s not difficult to do, you just need to take the dimensions from the opening and cut out the corresponding sections from the block.

They can be connected using a tongue-and-groove connection, simply nails or metal connecting brackets. The canvas is more difficult to make. Even simple paneled doors are inconvenient to make without a milling machine.

Can be done frame structure and cover it with veneer or plywood, and then cover it with decorative film; you can also make a canvas from tongue-and-groove boards, connecting them together using two or three cross members and diagonal struts.

However, this option has a more or less pleasant appearance only on one side.

In the future, the canvas can be covered with leather, leatherette or other materials to hide defects in assembly and insulation.

Installation

If not everyone can make doors with their own hands, then everyone can install them.

There will be no problems if the door dimensions are correctly selected, there is an assistant and minimum set tools - level, tape measure, drill, screwdriver, can of foam.

A tree can greatly change its shape and size under the influence of humidity. Therefore, before installation, you need to let them stand for several days in the basement or in the house.

The sequence is:

1. Doors are installed in the opening.
2. The bottom strip of the box is leveled, and if necessary, pads are placed under it.
3. Then the box is aligned vertically - in the longitudinal and transverse planes. Wooden wedges are used for fixation.
4. When the box is leveled and fixed, it is screwed to the walls with dowels, anchors or other means.
5. The level is checked again to ensure that the door to the basement opens and closes without problems.
6. The cracks are filled with polyurethane foam, and trims are installed.

After installation, you need to leave the door open for a day. The polyurethane foam used to fill the cracks tends to expand.

It can push the frame inward and jam the doors. As a result, the next day it will simply be impossible to open them.

In a private house, as a rule, there is only one entrance to the basement, and such a nuisance can result in the door breaking.

If the entrance to the basement is made from the street, then it is advisable to insulate the doors. To do this, you need to glue a layer of insulation to them from the inside or cover it with it. Otherwise, precious heat will be wasted, and the door leaf itself will suffer from moisture condensation.

Cost calculations

If you don’t make them yourself, then ready-made metal doors can be purchased for 6,000-18,000 rubles or more. If you buy an inexpensive interior room, you can spend 3-4 thousand.

Self-production It's not always cheaper. For example, for metal structure you will have to purchase:

• steel sheet 3 mm - 6.5-7 thousand rubles;
• corner 40x40x4 - 30-35 rubles per linear meter;
• loops - 50-100 rubles per piece.

It is also worth including a castle on the list, but its price varies widely.

Thus, you can see that welding the fabric yourself can be even more expensive than purchasing a finished product.

You can invest within an acceptable budget only if the metal warehouse agrees to sell the scrap steel sheet or there are already trimmings in the house.

Technology for creating floor hidden hatch includes several stages: selection and acquisition of materials, preparation of tools, drawing up a drawing and the actual construction of the structure. Basic requirements for arranging a boat and step by step the execution of the work is described in the article.

Requirements for hidden hatches in the cellar

Having a basement in a country house or in a private house has a number of undeniable advantages. Utility room expands the usable area and provides warm, dry flooring first floor. The disadvantage of a cellar is the increase in construction costs. Sometimes the cost of building a basement reaches ¼ of the total estimate for the construction of the entire house. Some people try to save money by doing some of the work themselves.

Arranging a basement involves organizing a separate or built-in entrance. This can be an ordinary door or a lyada (a hatch in a field). If the basement is located in a residential building, then a hidden hatch is placed. To do the work yourself, you need to think through everything in advance, taking into account the basic requirements for hidden structures of this type.

1. The dimensions of the hatch are selected in accordance with the room and the main purpose of the cellar. Minimum dimensions - 75*75 cm.
2. It is better to choose the location of the lyad not next to the wall. The door should swing open without any difficulty. It is important that open lid did not touch objects on the floor or furniture.
3. The cellar must be equipped with a simple and convenient opening mechanism.
4. If the door weighs more than 10 kg, it is advisable to equip the hatch with an electric drive.
5. The dimensions of the hatch must fully correspond to the basement shaft, and the joints must be sealed.
6. Care should be taken to ensure reliable supports around the perimeter of the hatch. The lid will be stepped on many times throughout the day and must be able to support the weight of everyone in the household.
7. It is advisable to equip the floor hatch with a smooth opening/closing system (gas lift). If there are animals and children in the house, then you will need a locking device that limits access to the basement.
8. The cover material is selected in accordance with the existing or proposed floor finish. For example, if laid wood board or laminate, then the cover is mounted from wood.

Options for finished products: features of operation and installation

Easier to choose finished design hatch, but install it yourself. Models available on the market different sizes and types. You will be able to find an option that is optimally suited for laminate, tile or linoleum. Depending on the method of opening the door to the basement, there are three types:

If the floor is tiled, laminate or other finishing material, then to create a hidden hatch into the basement with your own hands, you need to choose fillable aluminum or steel structures. This specimen is a shallow rectangular container. After installation, the frame is filled with concrete mortar, and after complete drying, the surface is lined.

Important! A concrete hatch has significant weight, so it requires the use of massive hinges and durable fasteners. A well-designed steel structure can withstand weights in excess of 1 ton.

Choosing materials for making a hidden hatch with your own hands

To implement the project, you can use wood or metal. In this matter, it is important to maintain a reasonable balance between the weight of the structure and its strength. When creating a wooden hatch, boards 2.5 mm thick are often used. The top finishing of the lid is made with 1 cm plywood. Using transverse slats, the boards are connected to each other, forming a solid sheet. To extend its service life, a wooden door must be treated with drying oil.

The construction of a durable metal hatch is made from steel sheets 3-4 mm thick. Polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene foam is used as insulation.

An important aspect of convenient use of a cellar hatch is the correctly selected handle and hinges. An ordinary door handle will not be suitable for these purposes, as it will rise above the floor level and cause inconvenience when walking. It is better to use folding handles that can be easily lowered or raised. If there are young children in the house, then it is advisable to install removable models. Some craftsmen often cut out recesses in wooden hatches and place secret handles in them.

When making hinged lids, you will need hinges. This can be regular models door hinges or from the hood of a car. When installing hinges for hidden hatches with your own hands, you need to take into account some nuances:

• It is better to use products with springs - this will ensure easier opening of heavy lids;
• hinges from the car fix the hatch in open position, which eliminates the possibility of the cellar door slamming.

Important! For a hidden hatch you need to take mortise hinges. If wall-mounted models are faced with laminate or tiles on top, then such a structure cannot be repaired later.

Conventional hinges are not suitable for aluminum or steel lids. Here it is necessary to use gas shock absorbers.

Creating a hidden metal structure

To make metal hidden inspection hatches with your own hands you will need following materials and tools:

• sheet metal (steel) 3-4 mm and 1 mm thick;
• metal corner - 4-5 cm;
• Door hinges;
• thermal insulation material;
• rubber compressor;
• primer for metal processing;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine, electrodes;
• sander;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• self-tapping screws

The assembly diagram of the metal hatch is presented below.

General order of work:

1. Preparation and insulation of the hatch:
   • cut from steel 3-4 mm required sheet, for example 75*75 cm;
   • weld a corner around the perimeter of the sheet with inside;
   • weld the stiffeners, dividing the hatch area into 4 sectors;
   • clean weld seams;
   • place insulation between the jumpers;
   • Place thin sheet steel on the back of the cover and secure it to the corners with self-tapping screws.
2. Installation of the cellar opening frame:
   • cut the steel angle according to the dimensions of the hatch opening;
   • weld a quadrangular frame from the corners;
   • secure the frame to the concrete with anchors;
   • Finish the end of the frame with a sealant.
3. Door fastening:
   • weld reinforced hinges to the metal frame;
   • Weld the counter elements to the lid;
   • install gas closers;
   • fix the lid;
   • coat steel parts with drying oil.

Metal floor hatch in the garage: video.

How to make a hidden hatch under tiles with your own hands

Drawing development

It is necessary to develop a sketch in advance future design. The hidden floor hatch (hand drawing) should schematically display the main parameters of the structure:

• box dimensions (length, width);
• thickness of the opening and the frame used;
• placement of hinges on the lid and hatch opening.

DIY hidden hatch under tiles: drawings

Installation of floor screed

The first step is to ensure the levelness of the floor in which the hidden hatch will be placed. The entire alignment process is carried out in several stages:

1. Determine the level of finished flooring. It is necessary to provide for the thickness of the tiles (about 8 mm) and the adhesive (4 mm).
2. Prepare cement mortar and set beacon profiles.
3. Bead the opening, leaving about 10 cm around the perimeter as support for the hatch cover.
4. Make a floor screed according to standard technology.

Tiling

After complete hardening concrete mortar, you need to try on the hatch by placing it against the opening. At this stage, it is advisable to pre-lay out the tiles. Tiling begins from the corner of the wall, located in the most visible place. Trimming and laying tile material when finishing a niche is carried out only after the final installation of the hatch frame.

Before installing the frame, the location of the hatch should look something like this.

Finishing the frame and slopes

The design of the ends of the opening is carried out in the following order:

1. Place the frame on the niche and level it.
2. The gaps between the screed and metal frame fill with cement mortar (use M500 grade composition).
3. Allow the solution to harden completely.
4. Trim the tiles and tile the remaining area around the opening.
5. Align the slopes of the niche - install beacons and “pull out” with cement mortar.
6. Tile the slopes using SM-11 glue.
7. Before drying adhesive composition It is better to fix the tiles with ordinary tape.
8. Install demarcating crosses.

Cover installation

To make a hidden hatch under the tiles with your own hands, use a galvanized steel body with couplings for installing handles. Reinforcement is placed in a metal box, the frame is filled with concrete, and tiles are laid on top flush with the ends of the lid.

The final finishing involves grouting the tile joints and installing removable handles.

DIY hidden hatch under tiles: video.

Electric inspection hatch: installation features

To make lifting the heavy hatch door easier and protecting the basement from thieves, the hatch can be equipped with an automatic system. Most easy way- construction of a folding mechanism. To make it you need to prepare:

• electric motor;
• duralumin pipe;
• steel sheet;
• steel rods;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• toggle switch (switch) 3 positions;
• presence of a current source.

The mechanism is mounted on a ready-made hinged lid; the opening angle of the hatch will be less than 90°. The principle of operation is as follows: the electric motor receives a signal from the remote control, driving the shaft. The rod rises 80° and the device fixes the hatch in the open position. The second toggle switch gives an impulse through the control panel and starts reverse thrust on the motor. The rod lowers and pulls the door behind it.

Hidden hatch - practical option arrangement of the basement entrance. The lid and lifting mechanism must be safe and easy to use. You can create a hatch yourself, without the use of expensive equipment or the help of professionals.

There are 2 types of doors that lead to the basement - vertical and horizontal. The principle of their operation is the same, and often there is no difference between them. But we should not forget that the door to the basement differs from other entrance and interior doors in a number of features, such as impeccable thermal insulation, a perfectly designed joint and precisely adjusted dimensions.

If you decide to make the basement door metal, then you need to find and make a frame from the thickest corners.

All of the above features may seem excessive and more suitable for some kind of military bunker, but at the same time, if at least one of them is not taken into account, the basement will not be able to ideally cope with the assigned tasks. The basic principle of this room is almost complete isolation from the outside world with only two stationary outlets for oxygen supply.

The door to the basement is made not only of steel, but also of wood.

Significant disadvantage wooden doors one might call them fragility. The reason is simple - wood is very dependent on heat and air humidity, so even minor changes can significantly undermine the situation. Because of this, home craftsmen almost always use sheet steel as a base, and then sheathe it with wood for a presentable appearance.

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How to make a door to the basement?

You will need:

1. Sheet steel.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Welding machine.
4. Corner.
5. Insulation.
6. Tough.
7. Pliers.
8. Screwdriver with self-tapping screws.
9. Door hinges.
10. Cement mortar m100.

At the very beginning you need to make a door frame from a corner. The thickest corner that can be found is used, because... it should not change its shape either from time, from regular use, or from any minor factors.

After the frame is cut out and welded from the corner the right size, it needs to be installed in its place. During installation, the usual Construction Materials, because they do not provide the necessary reliability. To ensure quality, M100 cement mortar is used, and for strength, the position can be further strengthened with bolts, the main thing is to prevent the caps from extending beyond the corner.

As the base of the door, a sheet of steel 5-6 mm thick is used, which will be narrower than the passage by only 1 cm. The sheet must be cut perfectly evenly, without waves or burrs. In advance, you need to mark with chalk the front side that will “look” onto the street.

Now a corner is welded on the basement side. Moreover, on one side the corner will eventually fit closely to the wall (from the hinge side), and on the other there will be space so that the doors can be closed - 2 cm (from the lock side). Don’t worry about air and heat getting into the cellar - this will be eliminated later.

Install internal hinges or external ones are decided by each individual, but this needs to be done already at at this stage. It is advisable to use homemade steel hinges, because... copper factory ones simply may not withstand the weight of the door.

Now the doors are insulated from the inside. To make the process easier, you can use a corner into which the insulation is placed. It is better to use polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam as insulation, because... In this situation, they will last much longer than mineral wool.

At the end, the insulation is covered with a sheet of tin or thin steel, bent at the edges with pliers and fixed with metal screws.

Glued to the metal of the door frame rubber gasket, which will serve as the final deterrent that does not let air in from the outside.

Each owner selects handles and locking mechanisms to suit himself, although most prefer to simply screw on the invoice door handle for comfort.

Peter Kravets

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Having it in a residential building is a big plus for owners due to its multifunctional use. But there are also serious drawbacks that make you think about whether it’s worth equipping underground room as part of the usable area.

In particular, the high cost of work on. It is not surprising that many try to save money and do all the work themselves. But no matter how reliable the basement is built, no matter how much it costs in terms of financial costs, its advantages are reduced to zero if an equipped entrance is not made.

Oddly enough, metal doors to the basement are also quite possible to make with your own hands.

Material selection

First of all, you need to decide where the door to the basement will be located - inside or outside. This affects the choice of material from which the entrance will be made. If the door is an entrance door, then it is better to make it not from wood, since it swells from moisture and over time the door stops opening correctly, and the locks begin to jam.

A metal door will last much longer, and there will be no problems with its use, unlike a wooden one. Of course, the cost of such a basement door is an important issue, especially if some kind of style solution is needed, or decoration with various forged elements.

But the advantage of metal doors does not allow for such expenses. In addition, there is the possibility of making it yourself, which will reduce costs several times.

Doors can be of two types according to the type of device:

• The entrance is located inside the house. In this case, there is no need to go outside, you just need to go downstairs to the basement.
• The entrance is located outside. The entrance to the basement is separate, and to get into it you need to leave the building. It is worth noting that this option is chosen in the case where the basement is used as storage, into which things or products are often transferred, and the hatch is not wide enough.

Features of arranging the entrance to the basement

When choosing a metal for a door, you should give preference to one whose thickness is at least 0.2 cm. Such material will allow you to carry out all the work yourself, and the resulting structure will be reliable.

If, in order to save money or for other reasons, a thinner material is chosen, then the quality indicators of such a doorway will decrease, and this will have virtually no effect on the cost of work. When living in a private house where you are settling ground floor, requirements for metal thickness are increasing.

It is recommended to reinforce such a metal door with a 4*4 cm pipe and a four-centimeter corner. Despite the fact that this design is not very beautiful in appearance, it meets the main requirements - reliability and durability.

An important point is proper planning of the space for the doorway in external wall Houses. It is best to provide for this case at the stage of the house design. If the house has already been built and the construction of the basement begins, it is better to invite a professional engineer who will determine the method and type of lintel and calculate all the loads.

It is not recommended to carry out such work on your own - the risk of miscalculation is too great, which will lead to deformation of the walls and the collapse of the house.

A metal basement door must be: strong, reliable, manufactured with precision in size and material, have a discreet appearance, be comfortable and durable to use.

Sequence of work to create a metal basement door

Although working with metal is much more difficult than processing wood, making such a door yourself is within the capabilities of anyone, especially if you study the sequence of work and the intricacies of working with metal. Of course, you can order a ready-made one, but this is a matter to be decided individually.

In order to make a metal door to the basement you will need the following tools and materials:

• Sheet steel;
• Several sheets of tin;
• Corner;
• Door hinges;
• Insulation inner surface doors;
• Cement grade M100 for mortar;
• Grinder and set of metal wheels;
• Pliers;
• Welding apparatus;
• Screwdriver and screws.

At the very beginning, the door frame is made from a corner. Buy the thickest one you can find, since it should keep its shape regardless of time, frequency and conditions of use, as well as the influence of any side factors.

Once the frame is designed and welded, it is installed in the intended location of the door. For installation, only high-quality materials should be used; in order to increase reliability, M100 grade cement mortar is used.

The frame is fixed using bolts, which are carefully recessed into the surface of the corner so that the heads of the screws do not protrude beyond the surface.

As the basis for the future door, a sheet of steel 0.5-0.6 cm thick is used, slightly narrower in width than the doorway (about 1 cm). The sheet must be cut absolutely evenly, avoiding burrs or waves. Use chalk to mark the front side that will face the street.

From the basement side, a corner is welded, so that on one side it fits closely to the wall (these will be hinges), and on the other, it leaves enough space (about 2 cm) for closing (the place where the locks are installed).

At this stage, you should not think about getting into the cellar warm air, this factor will be eliminated during subsequent work.

Installing hinges with internal or outside is left to your own discretion, but this needs to be decided at this stage. In order to increase reliability, it is better to use steel hinges made independently, since factory ones may not withstand the weight of the door.

Next, the door is insulated; for convenience, you can use a corner in which the insulation is placed. As the latter, you can take polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam, since they are more durable than traditional mineral wool.

At the end of this work, the insulation is covered with a sheet of tin or thin steel, fixed to the edges of the metal with self-tapping screws. A rubber strip is glued along the perimeter of the door frame, which will be the same deterrent that will prevent warm air from entering the room.

Steel locks and handles are customizable, but in most cases simply attaching a simple door handle is sufficient.