Installation of metal tiles yourself. Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars. Algorithm for laying on triangular slopes

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials, such as slate, bituminous shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications do it excellent options for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instruction and some recommendations from experts.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which provides absolutely light load on the roof;

Features a democratic price long term operation and expressive appearance

• simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
• a large assortment color solutions;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of higher level noise on days when it's raining. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Viewing photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from best method V in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
• special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
• internal and external valleys;
• other necessary elements– wall profiles, pediments, eaves strips of metal tiles, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality anti-corrosion coating, which is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on back side metal tile sheet:

• presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
• production date and period warranty period material use;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we're talking about about the material purchased from a large manufacturer, the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much it costs professional installation metal tiles. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of which materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements, which are included in the kit and allow for correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantities and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is minimum slope, in which installation of metal tiles is permissible.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• yardstick;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. Of course, you will also need fasteners - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work, before proceeding with installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor One thing that should be taken into account during the installation of the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

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Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
2. There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
• for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
• for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

• The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether installation is possible specific model ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need complete replacement the entire roof covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected - valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from the bottom up;
• a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
• the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
• fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, we can consider the case when a dormer window is installed. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge knots you need to align ridge strips relative to the angle of the "ridge". If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. As auxiliary material use bright polyurethane foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile, undoubtedly worthy of attention– Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation, as well as to other external factors, for example, moisture and temperature;
• due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout the entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
• using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

• For different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare different lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
• on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
• the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, since this may be impossible to do in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out it high-quality styling. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is polymer material, which is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• when it comes to eliminating more complex pollution, then it is permissible to use cleaning products, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. Use aggressive chemicals strictly prohibited, as they destroy protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
• It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Subject to these simple but extremely important rules, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
• Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these into account complex rules, and also by acting in accordance with the technology of laying metal tiles, you can independently make a beautiful and reliable roof.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is in warm time Every year, all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated polymer coating, protecting them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal tile roof, use self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay attention Special attention the issue of installing the ridge of metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

For arranging the roofing part in Lately Metal tiles are increasingly being used. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on steel sheet thickness 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings provide not only protective, but also decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness but are quite large in size, there is still a risk of damaging them if installed carelessly. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with the right In soundproofing the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

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Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare a set of tools in advance and additional accessories for work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required for 1.5-2 linear meters leaf length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm on all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

Typically used as sheathing edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, installation is carried out cornice strips metal tiles. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows can be installed metal profiles. Pass-through type snow guards are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through

Installation instructions for Grand Line metal tiles in PDF format in Russian, Uzbek and Tajik languages.

Metal tiles are a reliable and durable roofing covering. The high corrosion resistance of this material is ensured through the use of high-quality raw materials (galvanized steel from the world's leading manufacturers) and special polymer coatings. You can buy from the Stroymet company. We also have other roofing materials in stock. famous manufacturers from Russia and Finland.

Additional elements of Grand Line metal tiles

	Fixes sheets of metal tiles at the ends of roofing slopes, preventing the fasteners from loosening. Protects the structure from wind and precipitation.
	Upper valley strip A decorative element that covers the joint between the slopes on the inner corners of the roof.
	Bottom valley plank Provides removal of precipitation at the joints of adjacent slopes.
	Prevents uncontrolled snow removal from roof slopes. Protects gutters, as well as the area adjacent to the building, from additional snow load.
	Closes the joint of adjacent roof slopes, preventing precipitation from entering the under-roof space.
	Mounted in the end part of the ridge.
	Protects front board and others wooden elements rafter system located in the lower part of the eaves overhangs, from negative impact moisture.
	Junction strip Installed at the joints of roof slopes with vertical structures(walls, chimneys).

Basic requirements when working with metal tiles

Shipping

To avoid damage, the sheets must be firmly fixed in the car body. At the same time, they must fit completely in the body along the length (otherwise, kinks are possible on the overhang line). Optimal vehicle driving mode: speed no higher than 80 km/h, without sudden acceleration or braking.

Loading and unloading operations

They can be done manually or using special equipment (forklifts, cranes with soft slings). Packages are unloaded onto a flat, clean, dry surface. The number of personnel during manual unloading depends on the length of the sheets (1 person per 2 linear meters, but not less than 2 people per 1 sheet). Carrying is carried out in a vertical position. It is prohibited to drag sheets on the ground or other surfaces.

Sheets of metal tiles are stacked using wooden bars (laid at the base of the stacks) and slats (laid between the sheets). If storage is carried out at open area, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the sheets along the length for water drainage. In the immediate vicinity of the storage location, welding work and other operations that could damage the surface of the metal tile are prohibited.

Safety precautions

To avoid cuts from the sharp edges of metal tiles, personnel should wear protective gloves. In the process of lifting sheets onto the roof and installing them, it is necessary to use safety equipment. It is prohibited to carry out work at height in difficult weather conditions (strong wind, rain, hail, snowfall).

Fasteners

To fix metal tile sheets, stainless steel self-tapping screws with a polymer gasket are used. Approximate consumption – 6-7 screws per 1 sq. m.

Tools for installing Grand Line metal tiles

Note! When cutting metal tiles, do not use angle grinders with abrasive wheels. Violation of this requirement can lead to intense corrosion of products (due to damage to the zinc layer and polymer coating).

Roofing pie structure

Modern roofs consist of several layers that perform different functions. The reliability and durability of the roof is ensured through the use of quality materials and proper installation of Grand Line metal tiles. If even one element is installed incorrectly, this will lead to a sharp reduction in the service life of the entire structure. According to the experience of Stroymet specialists, violation of installation requirements entails the accumulation of moisture in the insulation (because of this, it significantly deteriorates performance characteristics), as well as destruction of wooden and metal parts (due to rotting and corrosion).

1. Metal tiles.
2. Lathing.
3. Waterproofing.
4. Rafter leg.
5. Counter-lattice.
6. Vapor barrier membrane.
7. The first sheathing board.
8. Gutter bracket.
9. Frontal board.
10. Dropper.
11. Cornice strip.
12. Ventilation perforated tape.

Installation of thermal insulation

It is laid between the elements of the rafter system. To make it hold better, it needs to be cut with a small margin in width (1-1.5 cm). Installation must be organized in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture entering the thermal insulation layer.

Installation of vapor-waterproofing films and membranes

Insulating materials are laid on both sides of the rafter structure: on the outside - waterproofing, on the inside - vapor barrier. Laying is done horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Standard waterproofing is installed with 2 ventilation gaps of 3-5 cm:

• between the film and the heat-insulating layer;
• between the film and the roofing covering.

The superdiffusion membrane is installed with 1 gap (between the membrane and the roofing). A second gap is not needed, since the performance characteristics of the membrane allow it to be laid directly on top of the thermal insulation layer.

When installing a vapor barrier, a gap is required between the film and the inner lining. The overlap lines of adjacent film rows are sealed with sealing tape.

Installation of drainage system brackets

Brackets designed to fix the gutter are mounted in such a way as to ensure a slight slope of the structure towards the drainpipes. The vertical displacement parameters are determined by the formula: h = 0.005 x L (L is the distance between the outer hooks). The brackets are first numbered and marked taking into account the specified offset. Correct installation long brackets are only possible before laying the roofing. The design of short brackets allows you to attach them to the frontal board at any stage of roofing work.

Installation of sheathing

The sheathing is usually made from wooden planks and bars. They must first be dried and treated with fire and bioprotective compounds.

A drip tray is installed at the bottom of the eaves overhang, designed to drain water and condensate into the gutter.

The first sheathing board should be thicker than the rest (the wave height of the metal tile is added to the standard thickness). The recommended distance between the bottom edge of the first board and the middle of the second is 30 cm, from the center to the center of the remaining elements of the sheathing is 35 cm.

A continuous sheathing is installed next to the ridge, in the valley area, in places where snow retainers are installed, around the perimeter of chimneys.

Installation of curtain rods

The cornice strip protects the front board from moisture and dirt. Using self-tapping screws, a ventilation tape is attached to the ends of the counter slats and the first board of the sheathing.

Installation of lower valley strips

The joints of adjacent slopes experience increased operational loads. Therefore, a continuous sheathing is installed in the valley area and a special seal is installed. The valley strips are mounted from bottom to top (starting from the eaves strip) with an overlap of 30 cm.

Installation of a bypass around the perimeter of the chimney

The waterproofing film is placed on the surface of the pipe (an overlap of at least 5 cm) and secured with self-adhesive tape. Then, abutment strips are installed around the perimeter, which are inserted with the upper side into the grooves made in the outer wall of the pipe (recommended depth is 1.5 cm). After this, drainage is done (to the nearest valley strip or to the eaves overhang).

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, wooden boards and bars are installed lifting structure, on which the sheets are fixed. After this, the metal tile along with the structure is carefully lifted onto the roof. During the lifting process, personnel must use safety equipment.

Installation of metal tiles Grand Line

To avoid damage to the sheets, work must be carried out in shoes with soft soles (sports or special), and you can only step into the deflection of the wave.

Laying is done from bottom to top. The lower edge of the sheets is carried 5 cm beyond the cornice and carefully aligned along the entire length of the slope.

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to install a lightning rod.

• The sheets are attached to the deflections of the waves in places where they fit tightly to the sheathing boards.
• The metal tiles are attached to the first board of the sheathing through a wave, above the step.
• Sheets are attached to other boards under the steps (as close to them as possible).
• Along the edges of the slopes (at the gables), each step is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Through exits to the roof

To ensure the tightness of through exits, Stroymet specialists recommend using self-adhesive tape and silicone sealant.

Dormer windows

Installation is carried out in the following order:

• the bottom plank of the valley (extended below the pediment line of the dormer window structure);
• roofing;
• upper valley strip (it is recommended to install a special seal before installation).

Installation of end strips

The planks are mounted from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm (the recommended pitch between screws is 30-35 cm).

Installation of the upper valley strip

This is carried out after laying the universal seal. Allows you to hide possible unevenness of cut sheets at the junction of adjacent slopes.

Installation of junction strips

In places where metal tiles adjoin vertical elements To ensure effective waterproofing, a polymer seal must be installed. The planks are fixed with roofing screws.

Ridge installation

The ridge strip is fixed through the wave with special ridge screws (have longer length compared to standard ones). A self-adhesive ventilation tape is pre-installed throughout the entire ridge. Plugs are installed at the ends of the ridge.

Installation of roof safety elements

In areas where snow guards, roof ladders, walkways, and fences will be installed, continuous sheathing must be installed.

Snow guards are installed at the bottom of the slope (but above the eaves overhang, otherwise they may not cope with the snow load).

The fasteners must fit not only into the sheathing, but also into the elements of the rafter system.

Eaves overhang trim

Plastic or corrugated sheets can be used as cladding materials.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure a good level of ventilation of the under-roof space (Vilpe valves are usually used for this).

According to Stroymet specialists, optimal solution for filing eaves overhangs – vinyl soffits. Their installation is carried out using wooden blocks and additional elements (J-profile and J-chamfer). Perforated soffits help maintain comfortable air circulation in the under-roof space.

Installation options for brackets for drainage systems

The drip tray is used to remove condensate from the waterproofing film (connected to it with double-sided tape).

Ventilation tape - prevents clogging of the under-roof space and improves air exchange. Fixed with self-tapping screws.

Post-installation care

Upon completion of the installation of Grand Line metal tiles, all debris (metal scraps, shavings, remnants of consumables, etc.) must be removed from the roof surface. If micro-scratches are found on the sheets of Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to apply special paint. This will not only make the damage invisible, but will also avoid corrosion.

The procedure for installing drains

1. The gutter is marked for the installation of funnels.
2. Holes of the required size are cut and funnels are installed.
3. Plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter (rivets and silicone sealant can be used for additional waterproofing).
4. The gutters are installed on brackets and connected to each other using special connectors.
5. Brackets intended for fixing drainpipes are installed on the façade of the building in 1 m increments (at least 2 brackets per pipe).
6. The drainage riser (pipe, elbow, connecting pipes). The drain elbow should be located 20 cm from the ground.
7. Drainpipe connects to the funnel, then the structure is adjusted and all the brackets and clamps of the riser are fixed.

Coastal zone (less than 3 km from the seashore)

Solano e30 Granite®HDX Velur® Colorful Print dp® Polyester Zinc GL Granite drainage system Aluzinc drainage system

The terms of the company warranty for Grand Line metal tiles can be found upon purchase at Stroymet sales offices (detailed information is contained in the warranty cards).

Until recently, only one roofing material was used as a roof covering - slate. IN last years its production began to improve, and all the material became sufficient High Quality. However, this was not always the case. Sometimes, even with absolutely even slopes, it was necessary to sweat a lot in order to correctly lay the last sheets of slate. Modern metal rolling technologies make it possible to produce metal tiles of very high quality. Installing a roof from such material is not difficult. It is worth noting that you can install such a roof yourself, that is, without any special skills. You just need to read the basic installation instructions.

Structural composition of the roof

Composition of metal tile sheets.

From a structural point of view, the roof consists of many small and large parts:

• ridge strip;
• cone-type ridge cap;
• simple ridge cap;
• valley plank;
• end strip;
• cornice strip;
• pass-through elements;
• stairs;
• snow retainers;
• transition bridges and others.

Of course, depending on the specific roof design, one or another element may not be present.

Tools and materials

They are needed not to keep snow on the roof, but to cut large layers of it into smaller ones, thereby preventing an avalanche of snow from the roof of the house. Their installation is carried out according to the same principles as the installation of fences and bridges. If the length of the slopes is less than 8 m, you can install only one snow guard on the metal tile, which will be located 35 cm from the edge of the eaves. If the length of the slope is greater than the specified figure, then it is better to install two snow guards at some distance from each other. As a second option, you can use snow strips. They are designed specifically to hold snow. They are attached to the tiles with self-tapping screws. The cost of such strips is much cheaper than snow guards, and they are easier to install.

Conditions for transportation, storage of tiles and safety measures when working with them

Metal tiles are loaded using soft slings. Sheets can only be transported in a completely flattened form, that is, it is not allowed for the sheets to be bent. During transportation, all packs of metal tiles must be securely fastened. It is not permitted to place other heavy loads on them. Unloading must be carried out only with gloves. It is better to carry sheets vertically so that they do not sag. Dragging sheets on asphalt or ground is prohibited. The tiles are stored in stacks in the original protective packaging.

To store it, it is better to choose a dry and level place. The sheets are folded onto beams, which should be laid approximately every half a meter. If they are supposed to be stored for 1 month or more, then it is better to arrange them on slats in several pieces. When working on the roof, you should follow some safety precautions so as not to harm your health or damage the roof. You can move along the mounted sheets, but you should step along the wave, and not on the crest. It is best to use sports shoes with non-slip soles. It is best to feed sheets onto the roof using two installed slats.

Metal tiles have firmly taken a leading position when choosing roofing coverings both among professionals and individual developers. Installing metal tiles with your own hands is a realistic task. You just need a little effort and careful attention to each stage of creating a roof. Our instructions will help you perform the installation correctly.

The first thing you need to do to order a roofing kit is measure ready-made structures roofs. The measurement results are plotted on a plan sketch of the roof. The following quantities are measured:

• The length of the roof slope is the distance from the ridge to the edge of the eaves board. It is recommended to measure three times: along the edges of the overhang and in its central part. The starting and ending reference points are the outer edge of the wind board and the middle of the ridge.
• The lengths of the cornices and the lengths of the ridges should be measured along the entire perimeter of the building.
• The lengths of all internal corners (valleys) and external corners (ridges).
• All ventilation shafts, auditory and skylights, chimneys, antennas.

Based on the roof plan with the measurement results printed on it, sellers will calculate the quantity and sheets of metal tiles, moldings, fasteners, and necessary accessories.

Preparation of roof structures

Before you begin installing metal tiles with your own hands, you need to make sure that all elements of the rafter system are installed correctly. The lathing and counter-lattice are in place, the integrity of the insulating membranes is not compromised. The geometry of the roof overhangs must also be checked. The pitch of the sheathing must correspond to that specified in the accompanying documentation for the metal tiles. The cross-section of the sheathing is calculated depending on the pitch of the rafters and the snow load. The thickness of the first sheathing board from the eaves overhang may be of a different section. The recommended cross-section of the sheathing is usually indicated in the design documentation. In the absence of a design, metal tile suppliers may be able to help you calculate the cross-section. The pitch of the rafters, the cross-section of the rafters and the cross-section of the sheathing differ significantly in the Krasnodar Territory and in Arkhangelsk. If the pitch of the rafters on the roof is more than 900 mm or the construction is carried out in an area with a large snow load, in the eaves part it should be done between the boards additional sheathing or a continuous flooring for fastening roof safety elements (snow guards, roof fencing).

In the ridge part of the roof, one additional board should also be mounted to fasten the ridge elements, and in the valleys (inner corners of the roof), if any, additional boards should be placed between the main sheathing to strengthen these corners and prevent deformation of the metal tiles.

When making a metal tile roof with your own hands, special attention should be paid to the issue of ensuring ventilation of the under-roof space. Air should flow freely in the eaves part and be removed from the ridge part, flowing around, ventilating and drying the underside of the coating sheets on which condensation accumulates. There should be no stagnant air zones or dead-end cavities on the roof.
Violation of this rule can lead to the formation of ice under the metal tiles on the slopes and in the eaves of the walls, leaks during periods of constant thawing and freezing, accumulation of ice and icicles in the area drainage system, very rapid destruction of the sheathing and other negative consequences.
Metal tile installation technology in instructions various manufacturers provides several ways to organize condensate drainage in eaves units. The most correct unit, from the point of view of providing ventilation, is when air penetrates into two cavities: air gaps are provided in the cavities between the sheathing boards and in the cavities between the counter-lattice. Thus, both metal tile sheets and waterproofing are ventilated.
When doing metal roofing with your own hands, you should not forget: everything wooden structures must be treated with fire-bioprotective compounds. The most budget-friendly composition is ordinary lime milk. Our ancestors painted wooden structures lime milk for centuries. The modern construction industry offers a variety of easily applied and effective fire-bioprotective coatings.

Warehousing and storage of sheets

Metal tiles are usually supplied in measured lengths in sheets up to 7.5 meters. Sheets should be stored in flat surface on wooden spacers installed at intervals of 500 mm. The stack of sheets must be covered and weighted, for example, with one or two sandbags. This will prevent the sheets from moving due to sudden gusts of wind. The sheets are lifted onto the roof using two guide boards. Sheets of metal tiles should be held by the side edges where the waves are stamped.

Installation of metal tiles is carried out using the following tools:

• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Mallet with rubber head.
• Soft brush.
• Tape measure with fabric measuring tape.
• Rake with level.
• Marker.
• One of the devices for cutting profile sheets:
  • Hand-held circular saw. Used for cutting sheets when large volume cutting
  • A jigsaw with an impressive supply of fine-toothed files.
  • Special nozzle for cutting metal for an electric drill.
  • Scissors for cutting metal.

ATTENTION! IT IS PROHIBITED TO USE AN GRINDER. When cutting with this tool, the polymer coating is damaged both in the cut area and across the entire plane of the sheet when hot sawdust hits the polymer coating and burns through it. Manufacturers void the warranty on sheets cut with a grinder.

Installation step by step

1. Brackets for the drainage system (if provided) should be installed in increments of no more than 700 mm.
2. Fasten the eaves strips with galvanized nails at the rate of 3 fastenings per meter (300 mm pitch). The overlap of the planks should be 100-150 mm. Waterproofing membrane should be placed ON the strip, but should NOT be left hanging in the gutter or sticking outside the eaves.
3. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, the films are destroyed. Trim the waterproofing on the eaves trim. Installation of metal tiles can begin from any gable. Depending on the location of the capillary groove on the sheets, when joining sheets, the side edge of the previous sheet must either be lifted or simply overlap the edge next sheet

1. . The first sheet must be carefully aligned with the roof slope and temporarily secured at the ridge and at the eaves (one self-tapping screw 4.8x25 mm each). The optimal overhang of sheets in the eaves is 40 mm. More overhang can lead to deformation of the edge of the sheet.

1. While continuing to lift and install the metal tile sheets, temporarily secure 3 more sheets, aligning them along the eaves line and with each other. Fasten the sheets together, ensuring an even and tight joint.
2. Once again, check the position of the sheets, check the overhang of the sheets in the eaves (40 mm), and, if necessary, align them relative to the eaves. Aligning a block of sheets relative to the cornice can be done by rotating around the fastening of the first sheet to the cornice. The temporary ridge screw must be removed. Secure the block of metal tile sheets with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. Metal tiles should be fastened with self-tapping screws with a sealing gasket. When fastening the sheets to each other, 4.8×19 self-tapping screws are used, and the sheets are fastened to the sheathing using 4.8×25 mm self-tapping screws. Preliminarily, the total consumption of self-tapping screws can be taken at the rate of 7–10 pieces per square meter. The sheets should be fastened to each other at an angle close to 90°, and the self-tapping screw should not be directed directly into the capillary groove. The sheets are attached to the sheathing at a distance of 15 mm under the wave, through two waves. In the cornice, ridge and pediment parts - through one wave.

1. Before screwing in the screw, make sure that it will hit the center of the sheathing and will not cause the wood to chip along the edge of the sheathing board.

1. In the ridge part of the roof you need to nail an additional board, with a cross-section 10 mm higher than the ordinary sheathing. To ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, the distance from the central axis of the ridge to the edge of the roof profile must be at least 80 mm. Install a ridge ventilation tape along the top of the metal tile sheets. Ridge strips should be secured with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the profiles. The installation pitch of the screws is from 300 to 800 mm, the overlap of the ridge strips is at least 100 mm. If there are stamped grooves, the connection is made along them.

1. Install the end (pediment) strip so that it covers the upper edge of the wave. Pin end strip in increments of 300–600 mm. The gable strips should be installed from the bottom up, from the eaves to the ridge. The overlap between the slats is 50–100 mm.

Construction of valleys and junctions

The interior corners are completed after all full-size sheets of metal tiles have been laid.

1. In valleys, additional sheathing boards should be installed, and in case of large snow load and the likelihood of snow bags forming in the valleys, make a continuous sheathing of boards. In this case, ventilation gaps of 20 mm must be left between the boards.
2. From bottom to top, from the eaves to the ridge, lay a valley gutter from a bent flat sheet. The vertical overlap at the junction of sheets is 200 mm, the width of the gutter is 500 mm from the valley axis in each direction.
3. At a distance of 100 mm from the valley axis in each direction, draw a marking line with a marker, along which you can subsequently cut the sheets adjacent to it.
4. Attach a universal seal to the valley gutter.
5. Sheets should be trimmed based on the results of measurements and calculation of the distance from the joint line to the marker line on the valley.
6. Attach the trimmed sheets to the sheathing at a distance of at least 250 mm from the valley axis in the nearest place at a distance of 15 mm under the wave stamping.
7. If the edge of the cut metal tile turns out to be uneven, the valleys can be covered with decorative overlays. Do not use sealants under decorative trims!

Pipe lining

To pass single elements through the roof, such as ventilation shafts and chimneys, aprons made of flat galvanized sheets with a polymer coating are used. Aprons are installed from the inside, from all sides. The overlap of the galvanized steel apron on the pipe wall on any side must be at least 150 mm. The junction of the aprons to the pipe is sealed with sealants. To drain water that gets under the metal tiles, a “tie” is installed - a flat sheet with a small flange connecting the apron and cornice. After installing the apron, tie and sheets of metal tiles, abutment strips are additionally installed at the joint.
The scheme for arranging junctions with walls provides for the installation of junction strips both in a groove in the wall (a groove cut or left in the masonry) and directly on a flat wall with sealing of the joint.

Installation of accessories

If it is necessary to make ventilation outlets, stairs, walkways, roof railings, they should be attached directly to the sheathing through sheets of metal tiles and using universal synthetic gaskets. The technology for installing accessories is detailed in the instructions for them.

Safety precautions

Installation of metal tiles must be carried out wearing protective gloves, safety glasses (when cutting metal tiles), and shoes with soft, non-slip soles. When working at height, you should use a safety belt and rope. It is not recommended to install metal tiles during strong wind and rain.

Care and maintenance

According to the instructions, maintenance of a metal tile roof consists of an annual inspection, cleaning of valleys, inlet funnels, drainage gutters and ventilation gaps from leaves and debris. If loose fastenings of sheets of metal tiles and moldings are detected, the self-tapping bolts should be tightened and the cornice, end and ridge strips should be additionally secured. Scratches on the roof must be treated with repair polymer compounds. Snow cover does not stay on metal tiles for long, but if snow accumulates on the eaves in a layer of more than 150 mm, the roof must be cleaned. You should not resort to the services of “professionals” to clear the roof of snow with crowbars. Compliance with the simple technology of installing metal tiles and the rules of proper roof maintenance will provide your home with reliable roof for several decades.