Metal tiles are one of the most popular among owners country houses roofing materials. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.
What tools and materials will you need?
- Screwdriver and hammer;
- Electric hacksaws and scissors;
- Long staff and marker.
An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.
You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.
From the materials you will need to prepare:
- Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
- Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
- Lathing board 25x100 mm;
- 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Mineral wool;
- Consumables.
The cross-section of lumber is maintained in mandatory. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various kinds additional elements: cornices and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.
Additional elements for metal tiles How much does a metal roofing cost?
The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:
- Like polymer coating material;
- Difficulty in roof configuration;
- Type of insulation used;
- Roof size.
On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. For this purpose, the roof area in square meters just multiply by 1000.
Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles
Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. For a long time there will be no need to repair the roof even if correct plating waterproofing agent.
Preparatory work
The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother they will be structural elements boxes at home, the less energy you will have to spend on adjusting the rafter legs in the future. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.
Material measurements
In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
- First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
- Determine where the chimney, ventilation holes, skylights etc.
In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.
Lumber calculation
After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to perform calculations necessary lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often it is arranged under metal tiles gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees.
Quantity of timber per rafter legs determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.
The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.
The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). Make a calculation required quantity rafters can be done as follows:
- Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
- Add one to the result and round up.
The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.
Assembling the rafter system
The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:
- Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
- Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.
Roof frame construction Often used on large and high roofs ridge beam. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house frame.
Hydro- and thermal insulation device
Sometimes a cold roof is made from metal tiles. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves it performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.
Waterproofing scheme The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when moving rafter system due to wall shrinkage and wind, it may tear. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.
Roof sheathing
It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of adverse weather factors. The lathing is installed using a pole and a building level.
The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way, you can assemble a reliable base for metal tile sheets.
How to correctly calculate metal tiles
After assembling the sheathing, you can install it yourself roofing sheets. But of course, you should first do exact calculation the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:
- Calculate the area of each slope;
- Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
- Add up the results obtained.
How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys
The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before installing the sheets. Pre-stuffed front board. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.
Installation of cornice strips Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
- Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
- Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.
Choosing metal tiles
There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
- Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
- IN middle lane Russian roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
- Warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.
Installation of sheets
So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
- The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
- Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
- The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.
Installation of additional elements
After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. They're in in this case perform mostly cleanly decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.
At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.
Attic roof roof
Construction of the rafter system mansard roof done like this:
- Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
- The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
- Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
- The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.
Some subtleties of installing metal tiles
The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
- All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.
We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney
Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:
- Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. Sticks on it waterproofing material with an overlap of 15–20 cm on the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself along the entire perimeter.
- After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.
Subtleties of installing curtain rods
The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and no one will have to do it. necessary repairs. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of valleys: features
The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).
Fastening sheets to roof breaks
Installation of roof breaks As already mentioned, on attic sloping roofs, metal tiles are laid on the break with an overhang. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.
Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that top part it extends at least 35 cm onto the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower slope. The sheathing under it should also be solid.
Installation of snow guards
This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:
- Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
- You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
- The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.
Installation of lightning protection
Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:
- Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
- Down conductor (circular wire);
- Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.
The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.
Safety precautions
When installing metal tile sheets, observe following rules security:
- Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
- Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
- To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
- People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.
Conclusion
As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.
Metal roofing, the installation technology of which will be described in the article, - great solution, if you want to create both a cold and warm roofing system.
Features of roof arrangement
If there is a need for installation warm system using tiles, the slopes will have to be insulated. This will allow you to get attic room, suitable for life. It is imperative to provide protection against condensation that may occur on inner surface systems. In order to prevent such phenomena, it is necessary to use waterproofing, which is often used as a membrane, which outperforms films in the fight for quality, because the membrane is permeable to steam, which prevents the accumulation of water. When using such superdiffusion materials, you will have the opportunity to significantly save space, because the installation of the panels should be done without providing a gap.
Additional materials
Metal roofing, the installation technology of which is described below, requires initial insulation of the valley. You need to start doing this from the top. The joints at the junctions and the valley must be removed with construction tape. In the case of rafters, the insulation should be laid from the eaves to the ridge, and the panels should be rolled out from left to right. The joints of adjacent rolls must be laid on the rafters, making an overlap of 15 cm wide. The sagging of the sheets must be eliminated.
After you have finished with the waterproofing, you can proceed to laying the thermal insulation layer. As a rule, this is used basalt wool, however, you can choose the material yourself. Insulation mats are installed between the roof rafters. If there is a need to lay several layers, then the installation will have to be done by bandaging the seams. This means that the seams of the first layer must be overlapped by the slabs of the second layer. Otherwise you will end up with cool air coming through.
The next layer will be a vapor barrier. Its purpose is to ensure that vapors coming from the interior of the premises do not linger in the insulation and do not turn into water vapor there.
Installation of cold roofing using tiles
Metal roofing, the installation technology of which must be studied before starting work, can be cold. In this case, the slopes are not subject to thermal insulation. Insulation is applied only to the lower area attic space. This ensures that the house will remain warm, while the under-roof space will be well ventilated.
In addition to membranes, cold roof made of tiles can be mounted using a waterproof film. It is laid with some sagging: there should be approximately 20 mm of sagging between the rafters, this will facilitate the drainage of accumulated condensate. In this case, the waterproofing is also laid horizontally, it is necessary to move from the eaves to the ridge, while ensuring an overlap of 15 cm.
Creating a sheathing system
A roof made of metal tiles, the installation technology of which should be known to the master, requires the presence of lathing. For its installation, it is recommended to use 50x50 mm bars, as well as edged board 32x100 and 50x100 mm. At the bottom of the slope - along the cornice - two boards with a section of 50x100 mm should be strengthened. Afterwards, a counter-lattice is laid on top of the insulation, where 50x50 mm bars should be used. They must be fixed along the rafters, starting from the ridge and gradually moving towards the bottom.
Next, you can begin installing the sheathing, which is fixed on top of the counter-lattice. The system elements must be fastened horizontally. The distance between the boards depends on the profile of the roofing material.
The upper area needs to be made somewhat stronger. This is required for metal roofing. The DIY technology involves fixing two boards on each side of the ridge strip. In the valley area, the sheathing should be installed so that it is continuous.
Laying metal tiles
If it is planned to construct the roof in such a way that the sheet of metal tiles will completely cover the slope, then the fastening must begin from the ridge. The first sheet should protrude about 5 cm beyond the cornice. After that, you can begin fixing the sheets of roofing material. In this case, overlap must be ensured. After you manage to install three sheets in their place, you should check the correctness of their position in relation to the cornice. Such analysis should be carried out at the same frequency until the completion of the work. The technology for installing a metal tile roof involves the use of self-tapping screws as fastening fittings, which are screwed into the base of the profile wave.
Features of installation of end strips
End elements should be installed from the end of the roof. They must be fastened with self-tapping screws, observing a step of 60 cm. In addition, an overlap has to be made, the width of which is 50 mm. You can choose flat or rounded elements as ridge strips. The first assume the need for additional fixation of the plug to its own end. It can be regular or conical, and fixation should be done with rivets; there is an alternative solution - self-tapping screws. Before proceeding with the installation of the planks, it is recommended to lay a seal under the ridge, which can be figured or universal.
Additional items
The technology for installing metal roofing involves the installation of ventilation outlets in the spans between the rafters. If the house has a ventilation system, then its output should initially be combined with the riser. For this purpose it is used corrugated pipe. To install a passage element on the roof, you must cut out and remove the roof covering element. After laying the insulation, sealant, and sealant, the outlet of the ventilation system must be inserted into the hole formed and attached to the tile with self-tapping screws.
Chimney device
If you decide that your house will have a metal tile roof, the technology, chimney and all other elements according to which it will be equipped must be carefully studied. So, in order to aesthetically bypass the chimney pipe, the latter can be plastered and properly connected to waterproofing. The sheets of tiles that are located on the sides of the outlet must be marked and carefully cut along the stamping line, while maintaining a 15 cm step from the material to the pipe. Now you can install the aprons. Initially, it is recommended to complete the work with the side elements and only then proceed to the rest. When fixing aprons located on the side, it is necessary to ensure that at least one wave crest of the sheet overlaps. This indicates that the side that is in contact with the roof should be 20cm or more wide.
Installation of a steel frame before installing metal tiles
Your metal tile roof can be installed. To do this, you should use I-beams, channels and angles, which are based on profiled metal. The shape of these elements can be triangular, rectangular and trapezoidal. Before purchasing the components of such a frame, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative aspects. Among the former, one can highlight durability, while among the latter, there is the difficulty of transportation and more impressive labor costs during installation, which is associated with significant weight.
Using steel roof trusses, you will be able to overlap spans of 50 m. As a rule, these components of the system are installed on top of trusses, which are located under the slings and have a rectangular shape.
The formation of a steel frame must be carried out after installing a support made of steel or concrete pads, reinforced with reinforcement and fixed to brick wall. installation of which should be known to you before starting work, is secured in the area of steel rafters with metal gussets, welded or tightened with bolts. All these recommendations are justified for a private developer, while professional companies use hot-rolled pipes, the profile of which can be completely different. Such pipes have very little weight, which is explained by the use in their production of material whose thickness does not exceed 5 mm. This is much less compared to the metal that is used in the manufacture of other profile products.
Features of installing a dormer window
If you decide that your house will have a metal tile roof, the technology and the dormer window unit by which it will be designed should be well studied by you. It is necessary to take into account that the frame for this roofing element will also be needed, and it will have to be sheathed using the same technique that was described above. It is necessary to make a window sheathing system in parallel with the installation of the main frame. The dormer window must have the same rafters, sheathing and ridge. During the installation of rafters at those points where dormer windows are supposed to be located, it is necessary to provide openings enclosed by rafter legs. This will strengthen the system. Then you need to install cross beams on the rafter legs. It is recommended to fix it on the beam located below vertical racks, connected to the cross bar. The frame must be mated to the upper beam. This will create a window frame.
Ventilation duct insulation
So, your plans include metal roofing. The technology by which the exit unit will be installed must be strictly observed. This will allow the work to be carried out efficiently. Thus, the installation of a ventilation outlet, or rather its duct, must be accompanied by waterproofing works. To do this, you can use liquid sealants for external works. This will prevent moisture from entering the space under the roof. As alternative solution for the box, you can consider materials and elements such as silicone, membranes, and also. Otherwise, there will be no way to avoid leaks, which will certainly lead to a breakdown of the structure roofing pie and water seepage into interior space premises of the house.
If you are unable to produce it yourself installation work, turnkey metal roofing can be installed by professionals. This guarantees excellent results, and therefore long term vital activity of the system.
Construction is not a cheap industry. And, as you know, there is never too much money, so you can save on labor force, i.e. do everything yourself.
Before starting installation work, you should:
- firstly, determine the amount of financial costs;
- secondly, select the design of the future roof;
- thirdly, carefully study the technological process.
In this article
How much does it cost to cover a roof?
Whatever the design of the roof, its cost is made up of four items:
- frame;
- insulators;
- upper roofing material;
- wages of workers (in our case this cost item is absent).
The first and easiest way to determine the cost of your roof is to call local companies and ask the manager about the prices for installing a metal roof, after first calculating the area of your roof. Many employees will be happy to provide approximate prices. The second option (calculate everything yourself) is more difficult, but no less accurate and reliable.
Volume calculation
Frame – wooden structure, consisting of main and auxiliary fragments. The first are the mauerlat, rafters, sheathing; the second - tightening, racks, struts. Together they make up the roof truss system.
There is a good online calculator on the Internet, with which you can calculate the volume of lumber, effective loads, see the rafter layout diagram, etc.
But there is one caveat - the calculation is carried out not for all types of roofs, but for single-pitched, gable, mansard (including) and hip roofs. That is, if you have more than four slopes, then you will have to count manually. After we have determined the number of boards and timber, we select insulating materials for.
Insulating materials
Insulators for roofing works the following will be required: steam-waterproofing and thermal insulation.
Metal tiles retain the bulk of atmospheric moisture, but vapors contained in the outside air still get inside. To protect the underlying structural layers, steam and waterproofing is used. The difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing is that the first is aimed at passing vapors from inside the room to the outside, and the second is aimed at preventing external moisture from penetrating into the roof structure. Film vapor and waterproofing insulators combine the functions of both layers and are either perforated or non-perforated. On the packaging of this roll material After the name, indicate a number; it indicates the weight of 1 m2 of film.
In addition to common film insulation, builders also use special polyethylene materials, with inside reinforced aluminum foil. Such films are rarely used for residential buildings; they are usually laid during the construction of baths, saunas, and swimming pools.
The best sellers on the moisture-proof film market can be considered Isopsan, KLØBER, TechnoNIKOL, DUPONT, but there are also cheaper analogues.
Enclosing material
As mentioned above, the main protective function is performed by the top roofing layer - metal tiles, which are sheets of thin-sheet steel (galvanized), aluminum or copper, coated with a polymer layer and deformed by the cold method. Visually, metal tiles are very similar to ordinary tiles, but they weigh much less - 5 kg/m2, and this is not its only advantage.
Let's also name tangible advantages:
- durability (15 – 20 years);
- aesthetic appearance;
- ease of installation and repair during operation.
Beauty, of course, is important, but quality characteristics play a decisive role. It is worth paying attention to:
- a steel base containing the necessary alloying elements that improve the strength and rolling properties of the metal;
- class and type protective coating;
- class and type of protective and decorative polymer coating.
The optimal thickness of the steel sheet is from 0.45 to 0.5 mm. With a smaller thickness, difficulties arise in installing a roof made of metal tiles: deflections, breaks and other deformations. The protective base of the metal coating in the production of metal tiles is:
- zinc;
- zinc-aluminium;
- aluminum-zinc;
- aluminum-silicon;
- iron-zinc.
Zinc consumption during production is 225-275 g/m2.
The following types of coatings are used as a protective and decorative layer in the production of metal tiles:
- polyester (PE);
- polyurethane (Pural);
- polyvinylidene fluoride;
- acrylate;
- plastisol.
For operation in an urban atmosphere (except for cases where factories emitting into the atmosphere are located nearby). environment aggressive substances) it is optimal to cover with polyester with a thickness of 25 to 30 microns. The above coatings “in their pure form” are not used. Foreign and domestic companies apply complex compositions of copolymers with various additives. The recipe for such coatings is kept in the strictest confidence.
After purchasing all necessary materials Let's start construction.
Metal roofing installation technology
DIY roofing tool
To make a roof with your own hands you will need the following tools:
- ladder;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver and electric drill;
- long rail;
- mounting tape;
- hammer;
- marker;
- level and tape measure (preferably metal);
- low hardness brush;
- mallet with rubber head;
- hand-held circular saw.
Remember: under no circumstances should metal tiles be cut with a grinder! This can lead to damage to the polymer protective coating, after which corrosion of the base metal will begin to form during operation.
Step-by-step instructions for installation work
The beginning of all work is the installation of the rafter system, carried out in several stages. Installation instructions for both cold and warm roof made of metal tiles can be included in the following installation scheme:
Step 1. Waterproofing the walls
The first step is to waterproof the walls. This can be done using ordinary roofing felt. Timber is laid on the walls from pediment to pediment along the entire length. Afterwards, we check the horizontality of the structures with a level and control the pitch of laying the timber. The Mauerlat is secured with anchor bolts into pre-drilled vertical holes in the beams. Later they begin to install rafter legs to it.
Step 2. Installation of purlins
Installation of purlins helps to simplify the work, since it becomes possible to fasten each pair of rafters separately. The purlin is placed in the highest positions of the front walls and secured in the designed position with anchors or steel corners. The ends of the purlins are also waterproofed.
Step 3. Attaching the rafters
Before you start attaching the rafters to the already assembled elements frame, you should lay out all the rafter boards in the strict sequence of their further installation. We must label all elements to avoid confusion.
We trim the rafter legs and precisely adjust all the gaps and angles. In the upper section, the rafters are connected with overlays. Each joint must have a minimum of 5 nails. First, the outer rafter sections are installed, and then those between them, distributing them along the entire length of the house. At the bottom of the rafters, tie downs are installed. All structures must be verified during installation.
Step 4. Installation work
After installation, alignment and final fastening rafter system, we begin roofing installation work. In order for the roof to serve for a long time and the metal tiles to reliably protect from precipitation, the installation of all fragments is carried out in a strict technological sequence, which includes the following steps:
- installation of counter rails;
- laying waterproofing;
- fastening elements of vertical sheathing;
- installation of the initial bars of the horizontal sheathing;
- additional lathing;
- installation of wind boards;
- installation of brackets for drainage gutters;
- cornice strips;
- installation of metal tiles;
- roof ridge and its seal;
- thermal insulation works;
- vapor barrier;
- attic filing (for attic roofing).
If the roof is cold, then the last three stages are not taken into account.
Metal tiles are suitable for roofs with slopes of at least 14°. The pitch of the transverse wave of metal tiles directly affects the spacing of the sheathing battens. So, with a transverse wave with a range of 300, 350 and 400 mm, the sheathing pitch will be 300, 350 and 400 mm, respectively. The distance between the lowest lath of the sheathing and the one next to it is respectively 230, 280 and 330 mm. The fragments of the sheathing themselves must be subjected to antiseptic treatment.
Continuous sheathing is installed in the places where chimneys pass, at the location of the valleys. Before you begin fastening the metal tiles, be sure to secure the lower valley strips along the continuous sheathing. The overlap of one part onto another is about 100-150 mm. The tiles are installed from bottom to top. The joining areas of metal tile sheets are additionally covered decorative inserts– upper valley strips.
Remember: junction nodes are the most vulnerable places, so their arrangement is approached with special attention. They use sealants for external work, seals, and an additional layer of waterproofing.
Another extremely important aspect at self-installation metal tile roofing - fasteners. Purchase a set of fasteners and metal tiles together from the supplier, otherwise you may lose your warranty rights to the purchased product.
Safety precautions
Construction and installation work is a dangerous activity. Perform all sawing, cutting, drilling, and fastening operations in protective clothing, gloves, and protective masks or goggles. At long work Your hands become sweaty and tools can slip, hurting your fingers and causing infection. Wearing masks and goggles will help protect your eyes from metal dust and respiratory tract from micro-granules of insulation. For which rolled mineral wool materials are used.
Compliance with safety rules is the key to your health.
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The use of metal tiles in roof repairs has become an opportunity for many home owners to do the work themselves. Material endowed unique qualities, convenient for transportation and installation, does not require special skills or special equipment.
The presence of special properties, as well as the correct one, allows you to build a reliable and durable roof. In addition, metal tiles are characterized by an attractive appearance: bright colors even under the influence of negative factors they do not fade, so the roof of your house, even after a few years, will be the same as when the roofing material was laid.
Features of the structure of metal tiles
To the main distinctive consumer properties metal tiles are classified as high level strength, durability, corrosion resistance, to achieve which manufacturers had to develop a multi-layer material structure:
- basis – steel sheet thickness 0.4-0.7 mm (depending on the brand of product);
- anti-corrosion coating- passivating layer with aluminum-zinc compounds;
- protective layer;
- polymer coating.
Manufacturers offer different options, therefore, polyester, matte polyester coating and plastisol can be applied to metal tiles. Regardless of what material is chosen, the procedure for installing metal tiles is carried out according to a single scheme.
To improve the water-repellent properties of the material and reduce the impact ultraviolet radiation A protective varnish is applied to the polymer layer.
Preparing the roof
Before you begin laying the roofing, you should do a little preparation. Experts recommend that those who are doing this kind of work for the first time and do not know how to install metal tiles should strictly follow the proposed instructions.
On preparatory stage tiles are being laid following operations:
The installation of waterproofing under the roof comes down to fixing the layer thermal insulation materials to the rafter system, taking into account the distance between the rafters of 1.2-1.5 m, as shown in the photo. Don't forget about the absorbent film - it is placed on top of the waterproofing. The film usually has markings on it indicating standard size overlap.
You can secure the waterproofing layer with film using a construction stapler or galvanized nails. Follow the sequence of actions: first, the material is attached along the edging, then from the bottom up to the roof ridge.
After completing the waterproofing work, we proceed to the construction of the sheathing:
- The sheathing is presented as attached to the rafters on top of the waterproofing layer wooden frame for installing sheets of roofing material.
- The structure is being erected from wooden beams or thick boards treated with antiseptic agents, this way you can avoid getting wet and rotting of the materials. In addition, the lathing can be made of steel profile.
- The sheathing beams are placed directly on the waterproofing and fixed with bars with an interval of 50 mm - the so-called counter battens. Due to this design, reliable protection of heat-insulating materials from damage is ensured and natural ventilation of the under-roof space is created (more details: " ").
We cut metal tiles: features and rules
Experts do not recommend cutting galvanized sheets, because then the protective layers are destroyed, the metal is exposed, which leads to the appearance of corrosive defects in the material already at the time of its use as a roofing covering.
In some cases, cutting sheets of tiles is an inevitable procedure, for example, if a sloping roof is being erected, then you need to follow the proposed rules for installing metal tiles, and in particular regarding cutting sheets:
- Use only a circular saw or jigsaw. It is better to exclude the grinder.
- We must paint the cut area where exposed metal appears, thereby protecting it from corrosion and other negative manifestations (more details: " ").
- We place the cut roofing covering under a solid sheet so that the cut area is hidden and not exposed atmospheric phenomena: wind, precipitation, temperature changes.
- Once all the sheets are prepared and trimmed, you can lift them onto the roof and begin installing the roof.
Installing a roof using metal tiles
Sequence of actions:
- We attach the metal tiles to the sheathing beams with self-tapping screws measuring 4.5x25 mm or 4.5x35 mm. For more reliable fixation, you need to additionally take a sealing washer with each screw.
- Before screwing in the screws, you need to drill holes on each sheet of metal tile at a certain distance from each other. Fasteners planted “live” damage the protective layers of the roofing, so this advice should not be neglected. For installation, as a rule, self-tapping screws are enough at the rate of 7-10 pieces per 1 sq.m. material, but when working with the roof irregular shape consumption increases up to 2 times. (read: " ")
- When laying metal tiles special attention should be given to its design, so when gable roof installation begins from any end; with a tent configuration, you need to move from top to bottom with a shift in the desired direction.
For tips on choosing metal tiles, watch the video:
- Installation of metal tiles can be carried out both from the right end and from the opposite. In this case, in the first case, each subsequent sheet is attached to the previous one, and in the second case, the edges of the subsequent sheet must be placed under the already laid one.
- Each sheet must be adjusted in length and along the cornice, after which they can be secured with self-tapping screws. In areas of overlap, additional fixation is performed, so the roof will become even stronger and more durable.
- After all the sheets are secured, you can install: ridge, butt strips, valleys, etc. If metal tiles are being installed in winter, then move along roofing for installation additional components Extreme caution is recommended.
To master the technique of laying metal tiles, beginners and independent developers are recommended to try their hand at roofing simple shapes. If the work is completed successfully, it will be possible to begin installation of more complex structures.
Does not create a large load on the rafters. When using it, two advantages are obtained at once: ease of installation, since workers have to deal with lightweight material and a lightweight roof structure.
And today we will talk about the technology of laying materials, their calculation, prices for work on installing metal roofing per m and others important features such actions.
Metal tile is a roofing material, essentially an upper one. last part roofing pie. But in order to correctly lay the MP, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions. IN general scheme roof devices, covered with metal tiles, looks like this:
- installation of a rafter system - the design depends on the chosen type of roof: hipped, gable, hip, and so on;
- fastening of counter-battens and waterproofing. The latter protects the rafters from condensation;
- installation of vertical and horizontal lathing. If necessary, an additional one is installed: a continuous flooring under the MP is not needed, since the material weighs little. The height of the sheathing is at least 40 mm - this ensures ventilation;
- fastening the wind board - it protects the ends of the rafters;
- installation of a gutter bracket and a strip for a cornice;
- only after they are fastened does the laying of metal tiles begin;
- fastening the ridge, arranging a dormer window;
- then carry out interior work: heat and vapor barrier, ceiling lining, etc.
The order must be observed. Otherwise, the quality of the entire structure will be in question.
Required Tools
To actually lay the metal tiles, you need few tools.
For cutting sheets you can use:
- mechanical or electric metal shears;
- cutting shears (electric);
- hacksaw for metal;
- jigsaw or circular saw.
Do not use tools with an abrasive wheel, such as a grinder. High temperature when cutting, both the polymer layer and the zinc layer will be damaged. In this case, rusting of the material is inevitable.
For installation you will need the following:
- screwdriver – the best option it will be battery-powered, since the wires are noticeably in the way during installation;
- hammer;
- rule or at worst rake;
- marker.
This video provides instructions for transporting, unloading and subsequent installation of metal tiles:
Material calculation
The calculation of metal tiles differs from the calculations of conventional sheet material. This is related to.
- The leaf has not only different profile, but also dimensional parameters depending on the type and. All quantity calculations include specific model, and not an abstract MP.
- The sheet of material has a well-defined upper and lower edge - it is asymmetrical, so they cannot replace each other.
- Joining sheets is the most difficult part when laying. Installing a roof with a broken, complex configuration is fraught with great difficulties. In fact, you need to consider each plane as a separate section, but at the same time take into account the connection with the neighboring section, observing the direction of the masonry. In this case, it is better to entrust the calculations to a specialist.
- When joining, the material is cut, which leads to the formation of a large amount of waste; as a rule, it is not possible to use it for installation. A specialist will be able to reduce material consumption through various techniques: removing the sheathing behind the wall, correcting the angles of the hips, and so on.
- In the calculations, not the total, but the useful area of the sheet is used.
- When calculating the length, you need to take into account that the joint is a weak point, and the fewer such sections, the better, therefore, ideally, the MP sheet should completely cover the roof slope. However, working with products longer than 6 m is extremely inconvenient, and their transportation is difficult and expensive. The ratio of these two factors determines the optimal length of the MP.
Examples
In the simplest case - a gable roof, for example, you can handle the calculations yourself.
Let the width of the slope be 7 m, and the MP sheet has a total width of 118 cm and a useful width of 110 cm. Before starting calculations, you need to make measurements:
- length of the slope - from the top of the ridge to the beginning of the roof;
- width of the ramp – in the example it is set to 7 m;
- skate length.
Calculate the number of rows: for this, the width of the slope (or the length of the ridge) is divided by the useful width of the sheet and rounded upward.
The number of rows is 7 m/1.10 m = 6.36 m and 7 when rounded.
Calculate the number of sheets in a row: here you need to take into account that when joining, the sheets are laid with an overlap of 15–25 cm depending on the angle of inclination and an overhang of the cornice of 4–7 cm. The required value is obtained by adjusting the intermediate results:
- floor length 4 m (ramp length)+0.15+0.05=4.2 m;
- a sheet, for example, has a useful length of 2.25 m when laying 2 sheets total length will be 4.5 m;
- since 4.2 is less than 4.5 this means that this option is suitable.
The total number of sheets is the product of their number in a row and the number of rows in in this example this is 7*2=14 pcs.
The length of a sheet even of the same profile varies from 0.7 to 8 m. Moreover, with a complex design, you can order the material according to custom sizes in order to reduce costs.
- The length of the extensions is determined by the total length of the structure and the size of the parts. Thus, the total length of the ridge element is 2 m, and the working length is 1.9 m. To find the required number of extensions, the length of the ridge - in the example 7 m - is divided by the length of the extension and rounded. In this case, you will need 7/1.9=3.7, that is, 4 pcs. The rest of the additions - cornice strip, valley, if required, wind bar and so on, are calculated in a similar way.
- To calculate the number of screws, the roof area is multiplied by 8.
Calculations are included in the project estimate. If at any stage a decision is made to use sheets with other parameters, all calculations will have to be repeated.
Do-it-yourself metal tile installation technology
The parameters of the sheet influence the structure of the roof, starting from the angle of inclination and ending with the distance between the sheathing slats. All this must be taken into account at the design stage.
- For the sheathing, use pre-treated with an antiseptic and an edged board. The approximate cross-section of timber is taken to be 50*50 mm - no less than 40 mm, boards - 32*100 mm.
- First, the falling beams - the vertical part of the sheathing - are secured. The distance between the slats is determined by the width of the sheet metal used. If it exceeds 100 cm, then thicker boards will be required.
- The horizontal sheathing begins to be attached from below, and the first board is installed thicker - 10–15 mm. The distance between the boards depends on the parameters of the MC. So, for Monterrey the distance is 300 mm - from the bottom edge of the first rail to the middle of the second. For "MP Maxi" the distance is 400 mm, for "Supermonterrey" - 350 mm.
- Additional boards must be secured to the sides of the ridge. And in valleys, around chimneys, attic or dormer windows install a continuous sheathing.
- If there are valleys, then before installing the MCH, the lower bar is fixed here. The extension can be joined with an overlap of 10–15 cm.
- To ensure that the MP roof is hermetically adjacent to the walls of the chimney, an apron is installed. To do this, mark a line along the lower connection strip attached to the wall, then the stone is grooved along the line. The plank is mounted from the side of the cornice: fastened with self-tapping screws, the edge is inserted into the groove and poured silicone sealant.
- Then a tie is made from a sheet of tin - a flat sheet that allows water to drain away. The tie should be directed either towards the edge or into the valley. Use pliers to make a low edge along the edge of the sheet to prevent water from spreading.
- A gutter is attached to the bottom board of the frame - the method of installation and fastening depends on its type. It is important that the edge of the gutter is 25–30 mm below the edge of the MP.
- Then the cornice strip is attached to the frame. Its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter. In this case, the waterproofing film must be placed above the eaves strip so that condensation falls into the gutter.
- Sheets are laid from bottom to top. If the MP was transported in a protective film, it is removed before installation. The first element is aligned with the end of the roof with a projection of at least 4 cm - overhang, and is fixed on top with one self-tapping screw. Next sheet laid with an overlap on the first one, if laying is carried out from right to left, or placed under the first one, if from left to right.
- The third and fourth sheets are laid in the same way and fixed only in the upper part of the overlap. Then the entire row is leveled and secured with self-tapping screws at the bottom, into the base of the wave. The distance is through the wave.
- All other fastenings higher up the roof are carried out in a checkerboard pattern and alternated in the same way - through the wave.
- At the ends of the roof, end strips are fixed with an overlap of 5 cm, fastening with 80 mm self-tapping screws every 55–60 cm. For side fixation, 28 mm self-tapping screws are used.
- If a round ridge strip is mounted, then first plugs - conical or flat - are attached to its ends. The flat bar does not need plugs. A seal must be fixed under the ridge. Secure the skate with self-tapping screws through the wave.
- The MCH is mounted on top of the tie and apron. When the covering around the chimney is laid, the upper apron from the upper abutment strips is attached directly to the walls of the chimney pipe.
Step-by-step instructions for installing a metal tile roof are presented in the video below:
Additional work
To maintain the roof, you may need to install a variety of additional elements.
- For ventilation and exhaust parts, you need to cut a hole of the required size in the sheet, secure the passage element, then insert and fix the ventilation outlet.
- The staircase is mounted in this way: the brackets are fixed to both posts and secured to the roof with Ш8*60 bolts/screws. Fixation in wave deflection. All fasteners are sealed with silicone sealant. Then the handrails are assembled onto the racks.
- The roof fence is installed at the eaves level. First, the supports are mounted in the wave deflections, secured with M8*60 screws through rubber gasket in timber The sheathing in this place is mounted solid. Then the fence is fixed into the supports.
- Snow guards are attached at a distance of 35 cm from the cornice. If the length of the slope is more than 8 m, then you will need to install additional intermediate snow guards. The sheathing under the elements must be continuous. Tubular snow guards mounted on brackets, the distance between them is 100 cm.
- A mandatory part of the work is grounding. The MC accumulates electrostatic electricity, so a lightning rod is provided here by default.
The choice is very diverse - rod, mesh, cable lightning rod, and is determined by many factors. This work must be entrusted to specialists.
We will tell you below about installation prices and the cost of installing a metal tile roof.
Price for services
The cost of installation is largely determined by the design of the roof: the more complex it is, the more parts it contains, the more difficult it is to correctly position the material and ensure the tightness of the joints. Accordingly, the cost will differ significantly.
On average, roof construction is simple gable roof is assessed as follows:
- installation of a rafter system - from 400 rubles. per sq. m;
- installation of waterproofing – from 70 rub. per sq. m, here a lot depends on the nature of the material;
- the construction of a counter-lattice will cost 50–60 rubles. per sq. m;
- installation of step lathing is estimated at 90–110 rubles;
- The actual installation of metal tiles costs from 200 to 380 rubles. per sq. m;
- installation of add-ons – from 250 rub. per p.m;
- installation of a gutter - around 370–400 rubles. per p.m;
- installation of a snow guard - from 500 rub. per p.m.
The minimum cost of constructing a turnkey roof is from RUB 1,300. per sq. m. Complex design will significantly increase the cost of work. Average cost grounding cannot be established: it is determined by the height of the building, the area, the nature of the soil, the height of neighboring trees and buildings, and so on.
Installation of metal tiles - relatively simple work, which, with due patience and compliance with the rules for handling the material, can be performed by the owner of the house. However, some additional or preliminary work most often requires the participation of specialists.
In this video you will find useful tips DIY installation of metal tiles: