After reading articles on Habré about homemade quadcopters and after I saw a video shot with AR.Drone, the idea for making a homemade one came up in my plans for the future FPV quadcopter, I wasn’t happy with AR.Drone at a price of approximately $350 (at that time I didn’t know that mine would be much more expensive), because the range is small, unstable outdoors, and the fact that it’s not open source and I can’t influence the algorithm of its operation .

About a year has passed since then, during which time I practically did nothing related to Arduino and other electronics, although I gradually bought various interesting electronic things.

And just recently it turned out that one of my friends decided to assemble a quadcopter, and I decided that it was time for me too.

Requirements for a quadcopter: FPV (first person view), that is, control from the ground without looking at the model, but looking only at the screen, fail safe - in case of loss of signal from the remote control, you need it not to fall lumpy, but calmly landed, or flew to the take-off point. GPS - it’s quite interesting to program some mission for it and watch its implementation. Flight time on one charge > 10 minutes. The range is approximately a kilometer.

List of necessary items

GoPro Hero3

I already had a GoPro (used it as a camera) so I didn’t have to spend any money.
PRICE: 300$
Buy GoPro Hero3

Turnigy 9X

This legendary (for its cheapness, good quality and functionality for that kind of money) I also bought the radio control equipment in advance, but I haven’t used it yet, it was lying gathering dust.
It comes with or without a receiver and transmitter, I have them, but our quadcopter will need others (with fail safe), so you can buy a stripped-down version, although I don’t regret the purchase full version, because It’s not difficult to insert another receiver here, and the price differs by only $4.
It is powered by 12V, which can be provided by 8 AA batteries, but it is better to use a LiPo battery. I made a little mistake with the dimensions, and my battery has to be secured with double-sided tape, but below I give a link to a battery that will fit perfectly into the battery compartment. You need to pay attention to the polarity (minus on the left, plus in the center) because You can stick it in the wrong place and burn the appa.
By default, it comes without a screen backlight, so it’s better to immediately buy an additional backlight for $5.
And the firmware with which it comes leaves much to be desired (I don’t know myself, but many people are flashing with the ER9x firmware, which is easier to understand and more functional), I will also flash it without even using the standard firmware, and for this I need a programmer. Price: 54+5(backlight)+10(LiPo)+4(programmer)+24(delivery)=97$
Buy Turnigy 9X
Buy Turnigy 9X (without receiver and transmitter)
Buy backlight
Buy LiPo
Buy a programmer

FrSky DJT 2.4Ghz Combo Pack for JR w/ Telemetry Module & V8FR-II RX

Receiver and transmitter for Turnigy 9x with fail safe (I haven’t bought it yet, but I will need it in order to fly confidently and not be afraid of signal loss)
PRICE: 40+6(delivery)=$46
Buy FrSky DJT 2.4Ghz Combo Pack for JR w/ Telemetry Module & V8FR-II RX

LiPo 2200mAh 3S 25C

Battery that will be in the quadcopter (I haven’t bought it yet, I’ll order it with FrSky)
PRICE: $10.68 + shipping
Buy LiPo 2200mAh 3S

Frame RCT Spider FPV Quadcopter Frame W/ Landing gear

Of course, you can make the frame yourself, but... They are not very expensive, and they look very good, so I decided to buy them. The choice fell on this one because There seems to be enough space in it for everything that is planned, and there will still be left for future improvements, it is convenient to attach a GoPro to it, and in my opinion the rays and blades will not fall into the frame, or will be minimal.
PRICE: $29
Buy a frame

Propellers 12 Pairs Carbon Reinforced 10x4.5" Counter Rotating Propellers

The propellers I bought were simply cheap and suitable in size (in the frame info it says 9~12" propeller), and there are also adapters for different motors.
PRICE: 27$
Buy propellers

Motors 2830/11 1000KV Outrunner Brushless Motor

I don’t know much about motors, I looked to see if they fit the frame (in the info on the frame it says 28, 35 series motor), a friend of mine bought the same motors. They had different powers from 750KV to 1300KV, I decided to take the middle. PRICE: 11x4=44$
Buy motors

Motor controllers SK-30A SimonK Firmware Multicopter Speed ​​Controller ESC 30A

A friend of mine bought these controllers and I also chose them, so that if something happened, the two of us could figure out the problems. Yes, and on the hub someone praised them.
PRICE: 12.5x4=50$
Buy motor controllers

Motor Controller Cable JST to 4 X 2mm Bullet Multistar ESC Quadcopter Power Breakout Cable

Just to avoid soldering and to look nice.
PRICE: 2$
Buy cable for motor controllers

Wires 18AWG Silicon Wire Red (1Meter), 18AWG Silicon Wire Black (1Meter)

I don’t know where in Belarus you can buy normal wires, so just in case I ordered red and black, 2 meters each.
PRICE: 1*2+1*2=4$
Buy red wire
Buy black wire

200pcs 10cm 2.54mm 1pin Male to Female jumper

Can be useful for connecting sensors and a radio signal receiver
PRICE: 10$
Buy Male to Female jumper

20 Pairs 2 mm Bullet Banana Plug Connector

Can be useful for connecting the battery and motors
PRICE: $3.5
Buy 2mm Bullet Banana Plug Connector

AIOP V2.0 ALL IN ONE PRO Flight Controller

I bought the same flight controller as a friend, because... The price and functionality are fine. And it will be easier to solve problems together.
It is planned to install MultiWii on it
PRICE: 49$
Buy AIOP V2.0

AIOPIO Board (Input / Output module)

I don’t know what it is specifically, but... the price is not high and maybe this thing will be useful to me, I decided to take it. I suspect that there are additional pins on which you can attach more sensors and so on. And it seems that telemetry can be transferred to the remote control thanks to it and FrSky.
PRICE: 4$
Buy AIOPIO Board

u-Blox CN-06 GPS Receiver V3.0

GPS receiver supported by MultiWii
PRICE: 30$
Buy u-Blox CN-06

Gyro / Flight Controller Mounting Pad (10pcs/bag)

Something like double sided tape which smooths out the vibration a little more.
PRICE: 1$
Buy Flight Controller Mounting Pad

7A UBEC

Because for AIOP we need 5v and our motors are 12 volt, we need to lower the voltage from the 3s battery to 5 volts (the one I bought returns 5.25) because

The first tests of a multicopter aircraft took place back in 1922, but only in the second decade of the 21st century. this type of layout began to gain popularity at an impressive rate. Compared to other radio-controlled models, quadcopters use in great demand, probably because they have a practical purpose: at a minimum, taking beautiful shots from the air.

Following consumer demands, manufacturers are flooding the market with an abundance of models of various configurations with various characteristics. Many buyers prefer RTF (ready-to-fly) kits that can fly into the air after simple calibration.

But not everyone needs the easy way. Particular pleasure can be derived from assembling the quadcopter from scratch on your own. The degree of complexity varies from kits with all the necessary parts for assembly to choosing each component yourself, checking their compatibility, assembling and configuring your own UAV.

It also makes sense to assemble a quadcopter if there are specific application scenarios for which factory models are not adapted. Or build your own flight training apparatus that you won’t mind breaking. Detailed drawing You don’t need it for this; a sketch with all the elements marked is enough.

Basic units and components

In order for the constructed device to be able to take off into the air, at least in theory, and to make assembling a quadcopter with your own hands a pleasure, you need to purchase a number of appropriate components:

  1. The flight controller is the “head” of the future UAV, in which all basic components are installed necessary sensors, and software to process their readings, and at the same time commands coming from the control panel, monitoring the rotation speed of each engine. This is the most expensive component you will have to buy to assemble a quadcopter.
  2. Advanced modellers make the frame themselves from carefully selected materials (aluminum, plastic, wood, carbonate or combinations thereof). If you lack experience or engineering knowledge, if a ready-made frame is more suitable for the project, or if there is neither the desire nor the time to design a quadcopter and its parts yourself, then they will come to the rescue ready frames, produced in wide range sizes.
  3. It is better to choose brushless motors - they are somewhat more expensive, but much more reliable than brushed motors. For flights, rotation at a significant speed is necessary, so the absence of a collector has a positive effect on the service life. Purchase at least 4 (or 8, if you need an octocopter), if the budget allows, then with 1-2 spare ones.
  4. Motor controllers, these boards that regulate the rotation speed of each motor and power it, will be mounted on the “beams” of the case. Their number corresponds to the number of engines.
  5. Propellers or propulsors should be selected with special attention, because the size must match the dimensions of the future frame, regardless of whether it was built independently or purchased.
  6. The power distribution board is designed to distribute power from the battery to the engine speed controllers. As a rule, each purchased case is equipped with a small board on which you can solder the inputs from all controllers, and then carefully power them. If desired, you can order a more advanced version of the main power board if your quadcopter circuit requires layout features.
  7. Buying batteries is one of the most difficult moments in selecting spare parts. The type of battery that is suitable depends entirely on intended purpose the created model. For fast models, it is better to take small batteries with high KV (revolutions per minute × Volts), and for low-speed filming devices, the priority is the ratio of capacity and weight, because the structure cannot be overloaded in any case. A useful addition is a battery charge monitor. It will not do without a special balancing charger for the selected battery type (lithium-ion or lithium-polymer).
  8. A control panel with a receiver module that connects to the flight controller so that the device can be controlled. The type of control panel determines the comfort of control and some other available functions.
  9. Additional options are selected depending on the purpose of the future device. Thus, camera stabilizers are often attached to drones for filming, and racing ones are impossible without an FPV (first person view) complex.

You will need few tools for assembly - a screwdriver for assembling the frame, a soldering iron and, of course, the skills to work with it.

The disadvantage of the latter can be easily eliminated during the assembly process, fortunately, “aerobatics” of ownership soldering station not needed. And it is better to use soldering irons with a thin tip.

Quadcopter drawings in the full sense of the word do not exist, and they are not needed. Assembly from modules eliminates this need. With consumables, everything is a little more complicated. To assemble a quadcopter with your own hands you will need:

  1. Thread lock so that none of the screws can be unscrewed due to flight vibrations.
  2. Heat shrink insulation for each soldering point.
  3. Polymer clamps for fixing elements on the body.
  4. Waterproofing compound for printed circuit boards.
  5. Banana connectors for motors.

Nothing will prevent you from making the necessary corrections and modifications to the design during assembly or flight testing. Maybe for your purposes it is better to assemble an octocopter with your own hands. With care and caution, even the most technically illiterate drone hobbyist can build a flying drone. Moreover, future flight tests will reveal all the shortcomings, which will be eliminated. The result should be the perfect personal drone. The main thing is to clearly understand the scenario for its application.

Build process

There are many options for the layout and design of multicopters, but the most common are models with four propellers. Therefore, the assembly of such a quadcopter will serve as an example for step-by-step review assembly process. In the process, you can rely on approximate drawings of quadcopters from the network or compiled by yourself.

1: Build the frame

Regardless of size or purpose, each drone must have a frame, frame, and supporting base. Assembly of finished frames should not be difficult due to the fact that they are supplied detailed instructions and all necessary fasteners.

And to assemble the frame yourself, you will have to show your design skills. A self-made quadcopter frame made of metal, plastic, metal-plastic or wood must be strong enough. For example, the thickness of the wooden parts of a self-made frame must be at least 30 mm. Assembling your quadcopter on a frame that is not strong enough is a waste of effort, because it will often break.

In any case, the output should be a given number of beams of the same length, which are carried by motors and attached to the central supporting plate. Landing supports or “legs” are also installed on it. In some configurations, the legs “grow” from under the engines. It all depends on the features dictated by the drawing of the quadcopter and its frame.

2: Install the power unit and propellers

Engines, their controllers and propellers play a key role in speed, maneuverability and other flight characteristics. Therefore, you should choose products from brands that work closely in the quadcopter industry, rather than someone who ended up in this market segment by accident.

Motors for one project must be of the same model from the same manufacturer.

Yes, the movement occurs due to the difference in the speed of their rotation, but it must be strictly controlled. A motley crew of engines would upset the balance. They are attached with screws to the outer ends of the “beams”.

After the engines, speed controllers are placed on the plane of their supports and secured with ties. The connection of the controllers to the motors, as well as to the distribution board, is carried out by direct soldering and connectors. If desired and on a budget, you can use a 4-in-1 controller, but then the layout of the quadcopter will change slightly. The result is an almost finished copter, which only lacks a flight controller.

3: Installing the “brains”

The flight controller is typically mounted on the top of the aircraft frame, above the power distribution board and battery compartment. The layout can be changed, but it is worth remembering that the lower the center of gravity, the more stable the device.

To minimize the effect of vibrations on the operation of the flight controller, its mounting pad is often mounted on rubber spacers or more sophisticated vibration damping systems are used. At the design stage it is good opportunity show off your engineering ingenuity without causing irreparable damage to the entire structure.

Only after the controller is installed can the remaining components and modules be placed: the receiver from the control panel, GPS sensor, magnetic compass, camera, gimbal, etc.

And only place it on the body; connection is permissible only after the initial calibration of the flight controller.

Different manufacturers produce different controllers, remote controls and other components. Therefore, their calibration is a complex and variable process worthy of separate consideration.



Propellers - such and such , the latter - right rotation; a pair of direct and reverse rotation screws are placed on the copter.

Connector - 3.5 mm this is a power splitter for Multistar regulators (XT60 by 4 X 3.5mm)



Quadcopter control board - MultiWii NanoWii ATmega32U4 , connects to the computer via USB, allows you to upload settings and configurations.

Battery - Nano-Tech 2200 30C , it’s better to take a couple at once, since going out for flights on one battery quickly gets boring. I usually take at least 4 batteries with me when I travel.

Charger - HobbyKing Variable 6S 50W 5A , the charger is needed to recharge the battery.

In addition, you will need radio control equipment for the quadcopter. I give preference Turnigy 9x , This best ratio price quality. The radio control range is about 800-900 meters. The receiver comes complete with the transmitter.

Control board to receiver connectors Turnigy 9x , they allow you to easily connect the receiver and the brains of the quadcopter.

“Silicon” wires for extending power supply to motors - Red Black - take a couple of pieces of both.

DIY radio-controlled quadcopter assembly



First you need to decide whether you will use a standard frame or decide to make your own.

A purchased frame is convenient, but if it breaks, you will have to wait until a spare part arrives. Homemade frame a quadcopter assembled with your own hands allows you to repair the breakdown in 20-30 minutes, but it requires extra work in the manufacture of a quadcopter.




Most simple option is the use plastic pipes for wiring. They are light and quite durable. In addition, you can buy swivel parts and wall mounts that are suitable for attaching electric motors to the frame.




The result is a very durable design that allows you to carry not only the electronics of the quadcopter itself, but also a camera for video recording from the quadcopter.

Here is a video on assembling a quadcopter from such pipes.



You can also make a frame from aluminum square tubes.




For such a construction you can download quadcopter drawings . By the way, this design is designed for flying with a camera, which is why it has such long “legs.”

Connecting the quadcopter electronics



All electronics are assembled as in the picture below.




To connect the motors to the regulators, you will need to build up the wires. This can be done using any suitable wire, preferably with a silicone sheath - it will not crack in the cold, you will be doing this on a quadcopter in winter, right?

Quadcopter setup



Setting up a quadcopter requires studying the instructions; simply connecting and flying will not work. You need to download the software for the “brain” of the quadcopter from the website, select the configuration of the quadcopter, configure the parameters and upload it all via USB to the control board.




Here it is best to turn to professionals, read quadcopter forum or ask someone who has already dealt with a similar setup to configure it.

The fact is that firmware is released quite often, and each firmware is very different from the previous one. So it doesn’t make much sense to tell you how to configure the current one.

How to learn to fly a quadcopter





It is best to start flying on a small quad that fits in the palm of your hand. Due to its light weight, it does not break when dropped.

Such a simple quadcopter that can be connected to the Turnigy 9x transmitter is the Q-Bot Mini, for it there is good review .




Of course, the additional purchase of a small quadcopter is a little expensive, but by flying one you will learn how to control it and will be able to fly a large quadcopter with a camera without falling! And you can always give a small toy to a child.

And finally, short video flight on a quadcopter, recording from a camera.

You, as a novice pilot, have decided to figure out how to make a radio-controlled quadcopter on a remote control (mini or with a camera) with your own hands at home. The task, at first glance, is simple, but there are a lot of nuances that you should pay attention to - more on this in our detailed instructions.

The myth of complete cheapness

If you are new to aircraft modeling, then you should accept that this is not a cheap undertaking.

Now “slippers will fly” that there is a video circulating on the Internet where a small drone was assembled from scrap materials and funds for only 50 rubles, spending only 2 hours of time.

Take a closer look - it's a joke. It's a shame if you believed that self-tapping screws plastic dishes and aluminum corners can be assembled to become a full-fledged copter.

Disappointed by the information? Then it’s better to buy a ready-made RTF quad (ready to fly) and not fool your head.

What you need at the very beginning

If you still have a desire, then first you should have hands from right place, namely, from the shoulders. Also, at least superficial knowledge of electronics and a little of programming, determination and lack of laziness and, of course, the details according to the list.


Oh yes, you also need to decide on the main function of the drone. At the very beginning, it is better to make a quadcopter without a camera. You need to get good at managing it so that one of the expensive equipment does not break or drown.

An important detail for beginners is the place where you will release your first drone for flights. Urban area disappears immediately, since houses, trees and wires will interfere with test flights. The park is also not suitable. One wrong move - the vacationer and your new baby can suffer. It's better to go out open field and drive the quad for your own pleasure.

List of main spare parts:

  • frame;
  • motors with controllers for them;
  • screws;
  • battery for quadcopter and remote control;
  • flight controller;
  • control panel with signal reception and transmission;
  • Charger;
  • connecting wires, bolts, etc.;
  • tools for work.

    In order to be able to modify the drone in the future to work with video and photography, the base between the copter’s beams should be made wider to later accommodate other devices.

Choosing a quadcopter shape

First of all, you should decide on the number of beams and screws on the copter. There is a wide variety of modifications and external views Flying drones, based on the number of beams emerging from the center of the frame, are tri-, quad-, hexa- and octocopters.
The number of propellers may be greater than the number of beams. But the name does not change. For example, a quadcopter has two engines with propellers on each arm - this does not make it an octocopter.



From the title of the article it is clear that we will talk about drones that have four axes (and standard four motors).
The shape of the beams on a quad aircraft can also be different (+, X or H - shaped).

The most popular model among copter pilots remains the quatrocopter with the beams arranged in an X shape (it can be seen in the diagram). Firstly, two motors pull the entire structure forward at once, and secondly, the attached video camera will not see the propellers in front of it.

What to consider when selecting all spare parts

Based on estimated weight complete structure already FPV, you should assemble a copter with powerful motors. This means purchasing additional batteries or installing more capacious ones at once.

To make the design easier, you can make the frame yourself. There are options: starting from simple wooden rulers, ending aluminum profile or tubes. You can save money on this. The main thing is that the material is durable, since when it falls, the first thing that suffers is the rays of the copter.

Of course, there are ready-made frames, but you should beware of fakes, otherwise after the first crash test at least one “leg” will fly off. During management skills, it is better to use available materials.

Quadcopter beams have optimal parameter- 30-60 cm in length from motor to motor.

To avoid injury and to avoid mowing down the foliage of nearby trees, as well as to test the copter at home, you can put special protection on the propellers.

What will the flight controller and all the other gadgets be attached to? Here, too, you can turn on your imagination. Of course, cardboard will not work, but a square of plywood and a plastic base from a CD box are optimal. It's not heavy and will hold up to whatever needs to be attached.



If you plan to use an action camera, you should leave room for the receiver and transmitter of the camera signal on the tablet and a place for its mounting.

Motors - you need four of them at once. Propellers are mainly selected by diameter and power. The diameter is taken from the parameters of the frame (if it is homemade, then at your discretion).

Motor control controllers are needed to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades. The power of the engines directly depends on the weight of the drone assembly.

Batteries for motors can vary in capacity. It is better to provide the opportunity to change batteries for higher powers and, of course, use not one, but several at once.

The screws themselves can be taken 9-12 cm. A pair of ordinary ones and 2 with reverse rotation. It is advisable that they come with fasteners for several types of motors at once.

The most important and most expensive thing about a quatrocopter is its “brains,” namely, the flight controller—you can’t skimp on it. This is where the future capabilities of the drone need to be taken into account. It is better to take a programmable microcontroller (for example, Arduino Mega). The sensors for it can be taken “all in one” All In One (gyroscope, accelerometer, barometer, magnetometer), or at a minimum - a gyroscope and an accelerometer.

Additional functions:

  • GPS - flight route programming;
  • “soft landing” - fail safe (if radio communication with the remote control is lost, the copter will land smoothly and not crash to the ground);
  • FPV (first person view) - first person view, and observation from a tablet.

The transmitter for the control board should be selected according to your budget. The main thing is that there are at least four channels and a frequency of 2.4 GHz. It can be purchased for left-handed or right-handed people.

Of course, you will have to tinker with the wires, but in capable hands this time will pass quickly.

It is better to attach a special soft lining to the legs of the copter or to the beams themselves on the frame to make landing easier on hard surfaces.

It won't be easy, but it will be interesting and entertaining!

Some more drone ideas

But craftsmen are not limited to only standard materials to create radio-controlled quadcopters - they use Lego parts, paper, bottles, and coolers, independently creating drawings and creating their device step by step.

Paper quadcopter

Imagine, there are also paper aircrafts! Of course, they do not involve serious loads, so they create them just for fun.

As fastenings for paper models use a glue gun and plastic ties. Also mandatory element small wooden blocks become - this is necessary so that the paper is not torn by the ties under load.

Drone made from coolers

If you happen to have old computer coolers in your hands, don’t rush to throw them away! They will make an excellent (though not the strongest) copter. To create it, you will need four computer fans and the same set of materials and tools as for a regular drone - but without the motors.

Now on the Internet you can find several useful tutorials (all links are at the end of the article) on how to assemble a drone on a 250 frame yourself. But while putting together my first quad using these articles, I ran into problems that were not covered in any way. Namely: I did not find a complete list of parts and additional equipment that I need, the price of a complete assembly, as well as some practical and theoretical issues. That is why it was decided to do this article as a summary of my personal experience and other people's experiences, to help newbies (like me) build their first drone as efficiently as possible.

Part 1 will be devoted to the selection of parts, equipment, assembly and connection of all components of the copter. The software side will be discussed in part 2.

Here's a quick report on what I got:


It is noticeable in the video that the drone’s legs disappeared during the flight, but more on that later

List of frequently asked questions:

IN: Isn’t it easier to buy a ready-made quad and fly?
ABOUT: Easier only if you don't intend to keep improving your drone and building others. That is, you just want to fly, and not rack your brains and spend expensive time. In any case, a store drone is easier to learn and easier to operate. As an alternative, I can suggest MJX Bugs 3. Review of it. Price from ~120$.

IN: Do I need to solder?
ABOUT: Yes need!

IN: Is it cheaper to assemble a quadric yourself than to buy it in a store?
ABOUT: No! I think this is a misconception. If you are a beginner, and since you are reading this article, most likely you are, then in addition to parts for the quadcopter, you will need a lot of other things. I am attaching the list below.

List to buy:

In order not to bother with the selection of basic components, I see an excellent alternative in buying a ready-made set. Without wasting time selecting parts, you will get everything you need.

Everything you get is included. On the picture Not the connecting wires from the controller to the transmitter are shown

3) At least 2 additional sets of propellers (4 pieces included: 2 left, 2 right) ~0-100 rub.

Propellers really consumables on your first flights, so it’s better to take it with a reserve. Oddly enough, it’s more expensive to order from China, and the wait is long. Maximum diameter 5 inches. I bought .


Batteries from Aliexpress. Both failed. The second bank on the left failed, the third on the right.


Left: battery for radio remote control with JR connector (black head). Right: battery for powering the quadcopter

I strongly advise against purchasing batteries from China: both batteries I ordered failed, that is, they stopped producing the required voltage (one bank each failed). Yes, perhaps it’s a matter of chance, but there were no such problems with other batteries, and a saving of 150 rubles. not worth the risk.


Turnigy 9X with battery. Fits very tightly, the lid closes

10) Soldering iron of course.

Total cost ~11878 - 13217 rub.

If you're surprised by the list, it's worth noting that most of everything you buy will serve you more than once.

I also want to note that prices are constantly changing, so I cannot guarantee the minimum price for the links. I'm sure you can find it cheaper. I just shared sources that coincide with mine one to one.

Assembly

Frame assembly

There is a possibility that the kit of parts will come to you without instructions for assembling the frame. That's how it was for me. If this happens, then we collect it from the picture or video. At this stage, you should not tighten all the screws to “combat mode”; you may have to disassemble the frame more than once. The top part on at this stage There’s no need to screw it on at all; without it it’s more convenient to work with the insides of the copter. Also, don’t forget about the washers that I wrote about above.




Don't forget about the washers. Of course, you don’t have a white plate - these are the very remnants of 3D printed legs

Installation of motors

A very simple operation if you remember the directions of rotation of the motors. Decide where you will have the front. Motors with a black nut rotating clockwise are placed in the front left and rear right places.


Pay attention to the location of the engines


Engine mounting

Soldering

Soldering the distribution board

So, you have already tried it on and decided how everything will be installed. Time to solder. When soldering the board The most important thing is to observe the polarity! It doesn’t matter where you solder the wires, it all depends on how you are going to install the board.


Solder the regulators and power wires. Maintain polarity. (My version)


We solder the regulators and power wires. Maintain polarity. (Another variant)

Solder the regulators to the motors

First of all, remove the standard red heat shrink from the regulators. In order for the motors to rotate in the direction we need, the regulators should be soldered to the motors like this:


Connecting regulators to motors

I think that you have a question: where to put the long wires from the regulators. They can be unsoldered and removed completely, or they can be cut to the desired length. The second method is preferable for beginners, since there is less chance of overheating the regulator when soldering.


Fully sealed standard regulator wires. I don’t recommend doing this, it’s better to just shorten the wires (don’t pay attention to the location of the wires, the picture is taken to show something else. Correct scheme above )

Solder the T-connector. Polarity is important!

We attach the power board and speed controllers

Time to strengthen. Remember that the frame of the copter conducts current, so the board must be insulated from it. I placed it on two layers of double-sided tape, tightened it at one end with a clamp, and then secured it with an elastic band.


We attach the board. Two layers of double-sided tape + clamp + rubber band

I hid the speed controllers in heat shrink and placed them on Double-sided tape, tightened it with clamps and, to be sure, tightened it with an elastic band. Looks more than reliable


We attach the regulators. Heat shrink + double-sided tape + clamps + elastic band

We attach the flight controller and receiver

Double-sided tape and rubber bands come into play again. Again, the tighter you secure it, the better.

I have it done like this:


We attach the flight controller (1). Grass left after the crash


Attach the flight controller (2)


We attach the receiver. The end also sits on double-sided tape

Connecting everything with wires

Regulators for the flight controller

We have 3 wires from each of the regulators. You need to do the following: on three of the four regulators you need to pull out the red wire from the connector. You need to connect the wires to the controller in a certain order, this will be discussed in the next part.


On three of the four regulators you need to pull out the red wire from the connector

Receiver to flight controller

But here the order of connecting the wires to each channel is not important. You just need to connect the power wire correctly - the white wire is closer to the side with the sticker.


We connect the receiver to the flight controller. The power cord should be located white closer to the side with the sticker

Screw the top part of the frame and see what happens

I also added a "camera mount".


"Camera mount"

Total:


About falls and what to do while we are waiting for the parcel

Be prepared for some falls at first. And this: broken propellers, legs and camera in my case.


Broken legs


Broken camera. By the way, I advise you to additionally seal the connector with the flash drive with tape, there is a chance of loss if dropped

Here's a video from my very first flight.



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