The causative agent of such red currant disease as goblet rust - mushroom Puccinia ribesiicaricis f. ribis Kleb. The pathogenic fungus overwinters on sedges, and in the spring the spores infect berry fields. At the end of May - beginning of June, convex bright yellow spots appear on the leaves and petioles on the upper side. On them, when a disease appears on the currant leaves on the underside leaf blade spore-containing goblet-shaped ectae are formed (hence the name of the disease).
Affected leaves and berries fall off by mid-summer, so signs of the disease disappear. The disease of berry plants with rust is facilitated by placing them in lowlands where sedges grow, where the infection persists. Goblet rust is found on currants all the time.
Control measures. Compliance with the requirements of agricultural cultivation technology, timely mowing of sedges in low areas, collection of plant residues. Preventive spraying of bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes during the leaf blooming period, and in case of severe manifestation of columnar rust, again, after picking the berries, with the same preparations.
Look at the manifestation of this currant disease in the photo, which illustrates typical symptoms:
Columnar rust: a disease of black and red currant leaves (with photo)
The causative agent of columnar rust is a fungus Cronarium ribicola f. ribis Dietr. This fungus has two hosts. The causative agent of currant leaf disease overwinters on Siberian cedar and Weymouth pine, causing the formation of elongated tumors on the tables and branches. Spores form on them, which in the spring re-infect the berry plants.
By mid-summer, when blackcurrant leaves are diseased, yellow, brown spots appear on their upper side, and numerous bright orange sporulation pads develop on them on the lower side. When severely affected by the disease, red currant leaves turn brown, dry out and fall off prematurely.
The development cycle of the fungus is complex: in the summer, on currants and gooseberries, it goes through three stages of its development and in the fall it again infects pine or cedar growing nearby. The infection persists in the affected coniferous plants and plant residues.
Control measures. Compliance with the requirements of agricultural cultivation technology, spatial isolation of bushes from conifers, collection of plant residues. Preventive spraying of bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes during the leaf blooming period, and in case of severe manifestation of columnar rust - again, after picking the berries, with the same preparations.
Look at the signs of currant leaf disease in the photo, by which you can identify the infection in your garden:
Septoria - a disease of black currant in spring (with photo)
The causative agent of blackcurrant disease is a fungus Septoria ribis Desm. It affects both currants and gooseberries. Already in early June, small, round or angular, brown spots with a red-brown border appear on the leaves, gradually becoming lighter in the center. In the necrotic tissue of septoria, pinpoint fruiting bodies of the wintering stage - pycnidia - are formed.
When currant disease occurs in the spring, shoots and berries are also affected, on which small brown spots appear. The disease causes massive drying and falling of leaves, the buds on the affected shoots do not bloom, and the yield is significantly reduced. The infection persists in the bark of the affected shoots and in plant debris.
Control measures. Collection of plant residues. Preventive annual spraying of gooseberry bushes before flowering and, if necessary, after harvesting with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes.
Look at the manifestations of this currant disease in the photo, which illustrates the characteristic signs:
Brown spot - a disease of white currant bushes
The causative agent of currant bush disease is a fungus Cercospora ribicola Ell. et Ev. In mid-summer, brown spots appear on the leaves due to spotting. irregular shape with a light middle. The spots gradually enlarge and merge, leaving a brown rim along the edge of the spot.
A delicate brownish coating of fungal sporulation forms on the necrotic tissue of the spots on both sides. When severely damaged by white currant disease, the leaves dry out prematurely and fall off, which greatly reduces the yield and frost resistance of the bushes. The infection persists in the affected plant debris.
Control measures
Anthracnose - red currant diseases and the fight against them (with photo)
The causative agent is a fungus Gloeosporium ribis Mont. et Desm. The first signs of the disease appear towards the end of currant flowering, with the peak occurring in the second half of summer (July-August). Leaves, petioles, young shoots and even berries, both currants and gooseberries, are affected. Initially, small light isolated spots with glossy tubercles of sporulation appear. Then the spots turn brown and merge, forming a very large plots affected tissue.
We invite you to learn more about these red currant diseases and the fight against them on the page below, where we offer effective measures control and illustration of signs of infection.
During the summer, several generations of fungus develop on the leaves with a large number dispute. On petioles and young shoots, anthracnose appears in the form of small gray-brown sores; small gray scabs may also form on the berries. The growth of shoots of affected bushes is greatly slowed down, leaves fall prematurely, and yields decrease. The infection persists in the bark of the affected shoots and in plant debris.
Control measures the same as against septoria currant blight.
Look at the red currant diseases in the photo, which shows the characteristic signs of anthracnose:
Terry - a spring disease of buds and currant berries
The causative agent of terry disease is phytoplasma. Black, red and white currant. The first signs of spring currant disease appear in the spring, but massive symptoms noticeable a year or two after infection. The infection occurs in a hidden (latent) form, and before the appearance of “double” flowers, infected bushes are a source of infection.
On diseased bushes, bud opening and flowering are delayed, leaves, flowers, and shoots are deformed. The leaves change from five-lobed to three-lobed, with large, sparse teeth. The leaves become smaller and become asymmetrical; there is often a light green edging of the veins. On affected bushes due to currant bud disease, there are more shoots, but they are shorter and thinner than usual, and the smell specific to black currant disappears.
Flowers turn from fused-petaled to separate-petaled, and pubescence decreases. Instead of petals, stamens and sepals, small narrow violet scales develop. The pistil becomes thread-like, and the ovary becomes superior. “Double” flowers do not produce berries at all or form small and ugly ones. The infection persists in the affected plants. It is transmitted with planting material, with cuttings taken from diseased bushes. Mycoplasma is carried from plant to plant by the bud mite.
Control measures with currant berry disease include the use of healthy planting material, compliance with all agrotechnical requirements for growing the crop, pruning individual branches with symptoms of terry, culling heavily affected bushes, removing swollen buds infested with mites. Spraying bushes against ticks with one of the following drugs: Fufanon, Kemifos, Actellik, Akarin, Fitoverm.
Green currant mottling
Pathogen: cucumber mosaic virus Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV) . On young leaves a pale green dotted pattern appears, a mosaic pattern that is clearly visible even when the leaves bloom. Later in the summer, watery, pale green stripes appear along the main veins, which can be seen in the light.
In red currants, the virus causes severe yellowing in the central part of the leaf, near the petiole; leaves may become deformed, and young shoots often dry out. The disease spreads with planting material; it is also carried by aphids that infest currants. Perennial weeds can be reservoirs of the virus.
Control measures. Using healthy planting material, complying with all agrotechnical requirements for growing crops, culling heavily affected bushes, weeding. Spraying bushes against aphids with one of the following drugs: fufanon, kemifos, actellik, kinmiks, spark, Inta-Vir.
Marginal necrosis of currant leaves
Marginal necrosis, or death of the edges of leaves, of currants is a non-infectious disease caused by excess chlorine in the soil. By the end of summer, the edges of the leaves acquire an ash-gray color in the form of a wide dry stripe, sharply different from healthy tissue. The disease has symptoms of potassium starvation, but differs from the latter: there is a clear boundary between healthy and dried tissue, and the affected areas are lighter in color. Necrosis is observed on black and red currants and gooseberries.
Control measures. At the first symptoms of the disease, apply it twice (at the beginning of the growing season and immediately after flowering) root feeding plants with ammonium nitrate.
Watch currant diseases in the video, which demonstrates the basic principles of combating them:
At our loved ones berry bushes a lot of enemies. At all stages of the growing season, plants can be overcome by a dangerous disease. We will tell you how not to be left without a harvest and how to treat currants against diseases.
Throughout the entire summer season, it is necessary to inspect the plants in the garden in order to detect warning signs in time. Black and red currant bushes look strong and healthy.
However, failure to comply with care conditions, as well as exposure to fungal diseases, insects and viruses, can lead to serious illnesses. Without proper treatment, you can lose your currant harvest. And some blackcurrant diseases lead to the complete death of the bush. In this article you will find currant diseases, descriptions with photographs and methods of treatment.
Anthracnose disease of black currant
In black currants, the fungus mainly affects the leaves; in red and white currants, it affects their petioles and fruits. The disease begins to develop in the spring, as soon as the air warms up to 15ºC. The first symptom is small reddish brown spots. Gradually they increase in size and merge. The leaves and clusters of fruit curl, dry and fall off in mid-summer. The frost resistance of the bush sharply decreases. The development of the disease is promoted by heat and frequent precipitation. If the summer is dry, infection with anthracnose is practically excluded.
For prevention trunk circle thoroughly cleanse of plant debris and deeply loosen the soil. Bushes affected by the fungus are sprayed with a 1% solution in mid-autumn copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The procedure is repeated early spring, before the leaves bloom. The buds are treated with Topsin-M, Previkur with the addition of any biostimulant (potassium humate, Epin, Heteroauxin).
During the vegetative season, the bush is sprayed every two weeks with an infusion of colloidal sulfur or wood ash. If the disease appears during fruiting, when the use of any chemicals is excluded, fungicides are used to combat it biological origin- Fitosporin-M, Gamair. The concentration of the solution and the frequency of treatments are determined by the manufacturer's instructions.
Spheroteca disease (American powdery mildew) of black currant
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Sphaerotheca. The first signs of infection of currants and gooseberries with Spheroteka are noticeable already in May: the leaves, stems of the bush, and subsequently the fruits are covered with a white coating (later the color turns brown). Then the berries become smaller and lose their sweetness, diseased bushes do not have time to grow and die. The development of the disease is facilitated by high air humidity and dry, nitrogen-rich soil.
Control measures:
The affected parts of the plant must be immediately cut out and burned, and the bushes themselves must be treated with a fungicide (Fundazol, Topaz, etc.). To prevent spheroteca in the fall, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves and thin out bushes. Dusting with wood ash and using the modern biofungicide Ampelomycin are also effective. Spraying is carried out with a 0.5% suspension 3-5 times per season with an interval of 7-10 days.
Powdery mildew disease of black currant
It is found on currant leaves and the tops of new branches in early summer as a gray-white coating that can be washed off and wiped off. Gradually it turns brown and is no longer washed off. Strong humidity and temperatures of +30 help the disease spread.
Black currant leaves, twigs and berries become infected. The berries are spoiled by fungus, tasteless and not suitable for food.
As a result, the infected plant stops growing and gradually withers. The fungus waits out the winter in a heap of fallen leaves.
During the initial stage of the disease, you can get rid of it by pruning and destroying infected branches, treating currant bushes with alkaline solutions:
- ash;
- soap;
- soap and soda;
- iodine;
- from whole milk.
If the fungus develops massively, the bushes are treated by spraying four times with fungicides such as Fitosporin, Topaz, Strobi, Hom:
- before flowering; after flowering;
- followed by berry picking;
- 2 weeks after the third treatment.
Important! Treatment of all fungal diseases is long-term; spraying is carried out throughout the entire growing season and preventive treatment is carried out at the beginning of the next season.
Septoria disease (white spot) of black currant
The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria. As with other fungal diseases, the most suitable conditions for the development of white spotting - high humidity, insufficient light, dense plantings. Brown spots (2-3 mm in diameter) appear on currant leaves, which by mid-summer lighten in the center and turn brown at the edges.
Control measures:
Infected leaves and shoots must be removed, then treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture. For prevention, you need to annually prune the bushes, dig up the rows, and remove fallen leaves from the area in the fall.
Blackcurrant rust disease
Currants are attacked by 2 types of this disease: goblet (yellow-orange “warts” form on the underside of the leaf) and columnar (characteristic of small reddish spots on the leaves). After some time, the berries and foliage of the diseased bush fall off.
Control measures:
When the leaves just begin to bloom, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (or other fungicides), then the treatment is repeated during the formation of buds. The final spraying is carried out after flowering.
Black currant terry disease
Description of the disease. Incurable viral disease of currants. Most often it affects black currants. White and red are more resistant, although some varieties (especially older ones) can be affected by the virus. The source of infection is the bush itself, which is infected planting material, gardening tools, which were not processed before trimming. The virus overwinters in the conducting tissues of the bush. Its carriers are bud mites, aphids, gall midges, berry bugs, spider mite and other pests. The virus is not transmitted through soil or water. The disease is extremely dangerous, it causes degradation of varietal qualities and leads to degeneration of currants. Therefore, its second name is currant reversion.
Signs of defeat. A sign by which it can be determined that a bush is infected even before the full picture of the disease appears is the loss of the typical currant smell of the buds, leaves and berries.
External signs of the disease appear in the spring when the leaves bloom and currants bloom. The leaf opening is delayed, they become three-lobed instead of 5-lobed, with large, sparse teeth along the edges. The emerging young leaves are small, dark green, with thickened veins; they do not develop further.
A characteristic sign of doubleness, by which the disease is determined, is the structure of the flowers. Typically, black currant petals are fused, round, and white. Diseased bushes have separate-petalled flowers that become purple in color. Petals, stamens, and pistil are deformed, and scales are formed instead, resembling tentacles extended forward. The flower clusters become longer and also turn a dirty pink or purple color. Berries from such flowers either do not set at all, or a small number of small, ugly fruits appear. Bushes that are sick with double bloom bloom late.
On diseased plants, a lot of thin and short shoots appear that do not have a currant smell.
The first signs begin to appear 1-2 years after infection. Before this, the bushes have a normal appearance, although the currant smell becomes weak, and the yield is somewhat less than that characteristic of the variety; a few berries are ugly in shape. Over time, signs of terry disease increase, and the disease develops very gradually.
Sometimes there is an incomplete picture of the disease, in which the tips of the shoots or individual branches are affected. Upper leaves underdeveloped, small, dark green, three-lobed, asymmetrical. The berries on such branches are small and fewer than on healthy plants, and sometimes the fruits are not set at all.
Control measures. Terry is incurable. If signs of the disease are detected, diseased bushes are removed and burned, otherwise the entire plantation can be infected. In place of removed bushes, currants cannot be planted for 5 years, not only black ones, but also red and white ones. The fight against the virus is ineffective because it does not destroy plant tissue, but penetrates into the cell, as a result of which it loses its normal functions and begins to produce a virus. To kill it, you need to kill the cell, and this is impossible without killing the entire bush.
Prevention of disease.
- If there were diseased plants on the plantation, then before pruning the remaining bushes, garden tools must be treated with alcohol or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
- Pest control. They carry the virus with saliva to healthy crops.
- There is a recommendation to use healthy planting material. But by the appearance of cuttings and seedlings it is impossible to determine whether they are healthy or infected with terry.
Infected 2-year-old seedlings look quite healthy; only the smell, which is rather weak for black currants, can be alarming. The disease manifests itself only during the growth and development of bushes. To prevent the disease, varieties resistant to terry are planted: Pamyat Michurina, Dubrovskaya, Binar, Nara, Primorsky Champion, Lia Fertile, Zhelannaya. The black currant varieties Zagadka, Odzhebin (Swedish variety), and Alexandrina are not resistant to the disease. Of the red currants, the Red Cross and Shchedraya varieties are very susceptible to terry.
Disease of marginal necrosis of black currant leaves
Marginal necrosis, or death of the edges of leaves, of currants is a non-infectious disease caused by excess chlorine in the soil. By the end of summer, the edges of the leaves acquire an ash-gray color in the form of a wide dry stripe, sharply different from healthy tissue. The disease has symptoms of potassium starvation, but differs from the latter: there is a clear boundary between healthy and dried tissue, and the affected areas are lighter in color. Necrosis is observed on black and red currants and gooseberries.
Control measures. At the first symptoms of the disease, root fertilizing of plants with ammonium nitrate is carried out twice (at the beginning of the growing season and immediately after flowering).
Nectria disease of blackcurrant shoots
If the rules of care are not followed, currant bushes may be susceptible to nectar drying of the shoots. The disease is caused by a marsupial fungus. The main signs include the appearance of orange dots on the branches, the size of which gradually increases. Over time, brown tubercles appear in place of the dots. If left untreated, young shoots dry out.
This disease is most often found on white and black currants. If the leaves of the currant turn yellow, pruning of the bushes is required to remove all damaged parts. Used to treat blackcurrant disease Bordeaux mixture. It is recommended to follow the rules for caring for bushes, which include regular feeding, removal of weeds and dangerous leaves and normal watering. This will increase the immunity of the bushes and prevent them from becoming infected with a fungal disease.
To have bountiful harvest, you have to sweat a lot. This truth has been well understood by experienced gardeners. To their chagrin, the extremely undesirable and labor-intensive process of pest control is often added to the usual crop care. Was no exception in this sense and black currant - pests and their control, photos and other details we have posted here to take care of you.
Black currants can become a tasty morsel for more than 70 species of insects, which, based on their actions, we have come to call pests. Most summer residents have had or will have to deal with some of them, while others are quite rare. We will consider pests of the first category so that meeting them will not be a big blow for you. So from whom does blackcurrant most often suffer?
You need to know the enemy by sight - blackcurrant pests with photos and control methods
Kidney mite
Blackcurrant owners should be most afraid of this pest. If you do not start protecting the bushes in a timely manner, there is a high probability of not only losing this season’s harvest, but also the entire plant. The first sign of currant damage by the bud mite is swollen buds (pictured). It is at this moment that it is important to take action. In the absence of proper measures, the plant as a whole will develop very poorly, the leaves will be deformed and there will be very few of them, as well as flowers. A weakened plant will become susceptible to diseases and pests.
Swollen buds are a sign of the presence of a bud mite To prevent such developments, the following measures must be taken:
If swollen buds are noticed, they should be immediately cut off along with part of the shoot and burned (if most of the plant is damaged, it must be cut to ground level).
You can plant onions and garlic nearby.
Control may be effective by spraying the bushes with boiling water (before buds appear or late autumn).
Spray garlic water(100 g crushed garlic/10 l).
A plant affected by pests can be treated with a product containing sulfur.
Spraying black currants with acaricides (Apollo, Neoron, Nissaran) is possible only after the autumn harvest, as they are toxic.
In the photo: cross-section of a kidney with kidney mite larvae Spider mite
In addition to black currants, this pest is very fond of gooseberries, raspberries, strawberries, and cucumbers. It is especially active in hot, dry summers. It often affects currants that grow in southern regions. As a result of the damage they cause, leaves are lost. What can you do?
Spider mites are active during hot periods The following measures will help:
Good autumn cleaning and loosening of the surrounding area.
Regular cleaning weeds.
Spraying with different infusions, for example, from garlic or onion.
Planting onions or garlic nearby.
Spraying before the start of the growing season with Trichlorometaphos-3. If necessary, the procedure is repeated before and after flowering.
Spider mites cause currant leaves to dry out Berry sawfly
The larvae of this insect cause problems. They develop inside the ovaries and eat the seeds. For this reason, black currant berries ripen very quickly, but are not edible. Moreover, if they are not collected and destroyed in time, pests will be able to gnaw through the peel and get out. The fight against them next year will be inevitable. Adult insect and you can see the larva in the photo.
In the photo: currant sawfly So, against the sawfly the following measures are required:
Before mid-July, collect and destroy all infected berries.
If pests were noticed last year, then control by spraying with insecticides (chlorophos, pyrethrum powder) should begin before flowering, otherwise - after flowering (it is better not to eat this season’s harvest).
In autumn, you need to dig up the soil around it, first carefully removing all the leaves.
It is recommended to hill up the bushes and mulch the ground with a layer of 8 cm.
In the photo: currant sawfly caterpillar Gooseberry moth
Often black currants (pests and control, photos and useful tips- the main topic of this article) suffers from gooseberry moth. It overwinters as a pupa on the ground under bushes, and in the spring, having regenerated into a butterfly, it lays its eggs directly into flowers. The larvae eat ovaries and berries. Externally, diseased berries are distinguished by the fact that they are entwined with cobwebs. What to do to preserve the harvest?
A sign that the gooseberry moth is working is a cobweb on the berries. There are such ways to combat moth:
Deep autumn digging and mulching of the soil, hilling of bushes.
Cover the soil around with film or paper (this will prevent the butterflies from getting out).
Spraying with infusions made from wood ash or mustard.
Collection and destruction of affected berries and the pests themselves.
Spring treatment with suitable drugs (Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin, Actellik). 
Gooseberry moth
Gooseberry moth
This butterfly, whose wings are covered with black and yellow spots (pictured), is most partial to gooseberries, as is clear from its name, but often attacks currants. She debugs the eggs with reverse side leaves, and the already emerged caterpillar voraciously gnaws at the leaves. In mid-summer, these gray pests turn into pupae hanging on the branches.
Cute gooseberry moth The following steps can be taken against gooseberry moth:
Thorough cleaning and cultivation of the land.
Carefully collect the pupae in July.
In autumn, treat with urea.
Spraying by suitable means(Fitoverm, Parisian greens, calcium arsenic acid DDT.
Gooseberry moth before metamorphosis Currant glass
This garden pest got its name because of its transparent wings (see photo). The butterfly larvae gnaw holes inside the currant stems, as a result of which the stems turn yellow and the berries wither. It is best to start fighting them in the summer, but then you can only notice their presence in the stems by cutting the damaged branch. Usually only people find out about them next spring. Fighting with glass is extremely difficult. It is most effective to start the battle during the appearance of butterflies. This moment is determined by placing fermented currant jam under the bushes.
Currant glass has transparent wings Ways to fight:
It is important to trim and remove damaged shoots in a timely manner.
Weed control and careful pruning of shoots (glasswort does not penetrate the roots).
Use of biological preparations (Fitoverm, Lepidocid).
Treatment with toxic drugs (Iskra-M, Kinmiks, Fufanon).
Glasswort gnaws through a currant trunk Leaf, flower and shoot gall midges
The name of the varieties of these small mosquitoes depends on the period in which they fly out and in which part of the plant they settle after wintering under a blackcurrant or raspberry bush. If large number If a gall midge attacks a plant, its leaves will turn red and fall off, and the plant itself will soon dry up. The insect lays eggs in cracks or under the bark of the plant stem.
In the photo: gall midge
Fighting methods:
Treatment with Bordeaux mixture.
Cutting and destroying infected branches by fire.
Spraying with Karbofos, Fufanon or Fitoverm (only before flowering).
Careful tillage of the soil in autumn and spring.
After exposure to gall midges, the leaves turn red and fall off Shoot aphid
The insect is very fond of gooseberries and black currants. It feeds on the sap of leaves, causing them to curl and die. Females like to lay eggs near the buds of young currant shoots.
In the photo: aphids suck juice from currant leaves Fighting methods:
The use of herbal decoctions from dandelion, calendula, potato tops.
Processing soap solution(30 g/10 l) or white mustard solution.
Spraying until the buds open, which should be repeated if necessary (Carbafox, Nitrofen, Vatellix, Actellik, Antitlin).
Leaves curl due to loss of juice Currant borer
This beetle, which you see in the photo, having settled in a blackcurrant bush, never leaves it, gradually eating away its stem from the inside. The plant naturally becomes weakened, and the berries on it become smaller. The beetle lays its eggs on branches and then fills them with mucus, which, after drying, serves as protection for them.
Currant borer Struggle:
Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology.
Destruction of infected shoots.
Treatment with Paris greens, DDT, calcium arsenic acid.
In the photo: currant borer larva Bud moth
This cute butterfly (see photo) can cause irreparable damage to blackcurrant bushes. They spend the winter in the form of pupae under the bark of a bush, and from the moment the ovaries form, they mercilessly eat them. The eggs are laid directly on the ovary.
Bud moth
Methods of destruction:
Carefully destroy all last year's leftovers.
Don't allow dense plantings.
Spraying with Karbofos (no more than two times).
Treatment with infusion of onion, mustard or shag decoction.
Bud moth before metamorphosis Shchitovka
Scale insects suck sap from the bark Ways to fight:
Spring treatment with Nitrofen.
Rubbing the stems with a specially prepared mixture of soap, kerosene and water (40 grams/10 drops/10 liters).
Destruction of damaged branches.
Scale insects can destroy a currant bush As you can see, blackcurrant has a lot of dangerous enemies, so getting a bountiful harvest of its valuable fruits is not always an easy task. Remember that black currants, pests and their control, photos and some details about which are presented in this article, are a valuable product for health, and therefore worth any effort.
Almost all summer residents and land owners give their preference to growing currants. In the plots we most often find black currants (Ribes nigrum), red currants (Ribes rubrum) and white currants (Ribes niveum), in lately Yellow currants are also gaining popularity.
Currant diseases and their treatment
If you want your bush to delight you with berries year after year, then you should know not only about the basic subtleties of care, but also diseases and pests of currants. About your illnesses currant bush“signals”: the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off, the berries dry out, the trunk begins to rot. And we will talk about the details of currant treatment and the most popular folk remedies for currants in this article. 
Almost all summer residents and land owners give their preference to growing currants. At the sites we most often encounter black currants(Ribes nigrum), red(Ribes rubrum) and white currants(Ribes niveum), yellow currants have also become popular recently. If you want your bush to delight you with berries year after year, then you should know not only about the basic subtleties of care, but also diseases and pests of currants. The currant bush “signals” about its diseases: the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off, the berries dry out, and the trunk begins to rot. And we will talk about the details of currant treatment and the most popular folk remedies for currants in this article.
Anthracnose (fly beetle)
Probably every gardener has noticed that in the middle of summer (most often in July), after heavy rains, red spots with a brown tint begin to appear on currant leaves. Over time, these spots “spread” over the entire area of the leaves. Usually this leads to the fact that the leaf begins to dry out at the edges and takes on the color of the spot itself, because the fly beetle also affects the petioles of the leaves.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease, and if it affects your bush, then you will reap a much smaller harvest, and if you do not start treating the currants, the plant will die in 4 years. This disease is insidious, because in winter the fly beetle spores “live” in the leaves that have fallen from the bush.
Important!The plant will not get sick if you remove fallen leaves for the winter and sprinkle the ground under the bush with dry sand.
Spherotheca is a fungus that appears in mid-summer on young currant leaves. It manifests itself in the form of a white, easily erasable coating, which then develops into a white cobweb on the currant - over time, it affects both old leaves and even the crop. There is another type of powdery mildew - European powdery mildew, which has the same symptoms and methods of control. It is best to combat this disease in early spring, before the buds open. The best method is to spray the bushes with a solution of iron sulfate (ratio of 10 g per 30 liters of water).
This spraying should be carried out immediately after flowering, and then repeated 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Also, a fairly effective way to combat spheroteca is to spray the bush with an infusion of humus. To prepare it, you need to pour well-steamed humus with water in a ratio of 1 part humus to 2 parts water, leave for 2 days, strain and spray the plant with this solution. If there is already an affected shoot on the bush, it must be destroyed.
Did you know? Red currants survive the disease of American currants much more easily. powdery mildew than black currant.
Reddish-brown warts are goblet rust. This disease affects all the “organs” of the bush: from the ovary to the trunk. If sedge grows near your site, this is the first and main reason currant diseases. This disease can lead to crop loss and drying out of currant branches. The fight against this disease consists of treating the bushes with phytosporin; if this does not help, you can use Bordeaux acid. Such preventive measures should be carried out 4 times with an interval of 10 days.
Terry (reversion)
Reversion affects all types of currants without exception, because the pathogen of this plant is hidden in the juices. It manifests itself mainly in purple color: petals become purple and narrow, fruits do not set. If your plant is already affected, swatching branches or leaves will not help. Here we are talking only about the destruction of the entire bush. To prevent this disease, you need to regularly add potassium and phosphorus to the soil, and you can also water the bush with solutions of manganese and boron.
Important! Nitrogen fertilizers only contribute to the development of this disease.
Nectria drying of currant shoots and branches
This disease is one of the most “severe” for currants, which affects mainly red and white currants and leads to total drying out of currant branches. The first sign is the appearance of red-brown tubercles at the base of the branches. To prevent this disease, you need to follow the rules of agricultural technology, and if it has already fully developed on the bush, then the affected branches need to be cut off and burned, and the wounds need to be lubricated with garden varnish.
Striped (veined) mosaic
Conventional treatment of spring currants against pests and diseases will not help prevent the viral disease - striped (veined) mosaic. Usually this disease overtakes bushes at the beginning of summer. The main and only symptom: a pale yellow pattern appears on the leaves, around the main veins, which becomes brighter over time. In this case, there is no need to talk about currant treatment; the only way out is to uproot the bush and burn it. But, preventive methods can be carried out: treat the bush from insects in a timely manner, and also use healthy material for planting.
Gray rot
Gray rot is a fungal disease that causes the leaves to turn dark brown, and even the wood of white currants can be affected.
Did you know?Gray rot affects almost all berry plants.
If your bush is affected, this will lead to the “death” of the leaves, deterioration in the quality of the berries and the imminent death of the entire plant. The main method of combating the disease is to collect and destroy the affected areas, and you can also treat the plant with fungicides, but this can only be done before fruit formation. It is best to carry out treatment during the flowering period.
Columnar rust appears in summer. Warm and too humid weather is the main causative agent of the disease, which massively affects currant bushes. To protect your bushes from this disease, you need to regularly rake fallen leaves and treat the bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture. This processing is best carried out in three stages:when blooming, when buds are forming and after the color has fallen. It is also important to loosen the soil in time, but not deeply (approximately 3-5 cm). But the main way is to choose right place for planting: columnar rust develops on bushes near coniferous trees, so it’s better to plant the bush away from them.
Septoria (white spot) on currants
This disease is caused by a fungus that lives on fallen leaves. Brown spots appear on young leaves, with the development of which a white dot appears in the center of the spot, which grows and eventually remains white spot framed in red. In areas where diseased bushes are treated with nitrafen, and if the damage is very severe, then a solution of copper sulfate should be used. But in the fight against this disease, it is important not what to treat currants with, but when to do it, and it is better to do it in early spring before buds form.
Important!A large number of weeds contributes to the development of diseases.
Drying of currant shoots and branches
Everyone knows that the woody part of the currant is very elastic, but the symptom of this disease is the loss of elasticity of the bush and the appearance of cracks on the trunk and branches. A fungus develops in these cracks, the spores of which contribute to the spread of this disease. The methods of combating drying out are very simple: following the rules of agricultural technology and treating the cuttings with Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water).
Prevention of currant diseases
The first and most important advice in the fight against diseases and pests of currants is to follow the rules of agricultural technology, namely regularly loosening the soil and digging up the bushes. Many, of course, are proud lush garden from currants, but you should not allow the planting to be too dense; for this you need to regularly trim the branches of the bushes.
Currant pests: how to fight
Protection of currants from pests in the spring mainly consists of preventive measures. But if your garden is already infested with insects, then you should not immediately resort to chemicals, as they can harm your plant. To begin with, you can try folk remedies such as decoctions, infusions and sprays. We will talk further about their effectiveness and nuances of use.
Two-year-old leaf roller
The leaf roller attacks the buds and berries of the bush. The leaf roller looks like a caterpillar up to 22 mm in size. Again, the cause of their appearance may be uncollected fallen leaves in which they overwinter. The transformation of a caterpillar into a butterfly occurs in mid-May from eggs that are laid on the buds and embryos of berries. Caterpillars eat the buds from the inside. One such caterpillar can eat 30 buds in a week. Butterflies fly out after 50 days. To reproduce, butterflies lay eggs on already formed berries. You can fight the two-year-old leaf roller by spraying the bushes with insecticides: Antio, Gardona, Zolon.
Females and males of scale insects are different: the female is wrinkled, pear-shaped, covered with gray-brown skin. The male is elongated, with two grooves, one pair of wings and antennae. The female lays purple-red eggs in the subcortex of the branches of the bush. The settlement and revival of the larvae takes the entire period from currant budding to the end of the flowering period. Typically, willow scale invades bushes that are not taken care of. There is only one method of combating this pest: cutting out damaged bushes and destroying them. For prevention, you can treat the bushes with Bordeaux acid in early spring, at a temperature no higher than 4 degrees.
Gooseberry moth
The gooseberry moth is a butterfly whose wingspan reaches 3 cm, while the body itself grows only up to 2 cm in length. The caterpillar is light green in color, and the wings of the butterfly have a brown stripe and dark brown spots. Eggs laid by the female overwinter in upper layers soil, in cocoons made of cobwebs. When the butterflies appear (in mid-April), they lay eggs in the flowers of the bush and in the buds. The fight against currant moth consists of timely removal of cobwebs from the bushes, and after flowering it is advisable to spray the bush with an insecticide. Hilling up the soil with mulch (a layer of about 8 cm) is effective in combating moth.
Did you know?After flowering, the bush needs to be opened to ventilate and improve the quality of the berries.
The methods of combating the sawfly are almost no different from the fight against other pests, the only difference is that spraying must be carried out in two stages: against the first generation - from the moment of bud formation until the buds open, and the second stage - immediately after flowering. If after you have harvested the crop, insects appear again, then spraying with insecticides can be done again. The easiest way to combat sawfly is to shake off the larvae by hand.
Gooseberry shoot aphid
Aphids live in colonies: the larvae overwinter in the subcortex of a young shoot, and in the spring the female “disperses” her young throughout the bush. The invasion of a colony of aphids leads to the fact that young leaves dry out and, as a result, die. To combat the pest, you can use a soap solution: 300 g per 10 liters of water. Anthracnose treatments are also effective for killing insects. Insecticides are effective, but they cannot be sprayed on fruits.
Moth false caterpillars eat leaves: first they gnaw out small holes, then together with them they “envelop” themselves in a cocoon and fall to the ground for wintering. The female moth lays her eggs in summer period on inside leaf. The females are quite large - their wingspan can be 5 cm. The methods of combating moths are the same as against other pests: spraying with insecticides, shaking off the larvae by hand, loosening the soil.
Leaf gall aphid
This insect has another name - “red gall” aphid. They usually overwinter on the bark of shoots, next to the buds. In the summer, when the growth of fresh shoots slows down, they move to nearby plants, and by autumn they move to the bush. Females emerge in summer and distribute their offspring. They usually live on the inside of the leaf, eating it. On damaged sheet yellow-red swellings appear - galls. Soap solution, insecticides (treatment in early spring), entomophages are effective means to combat these insects.
This small sucking insect infects the leaves of the bush, turning them “marbled”, after which they dry out and fall off. These larvae live on the inside of the leaf and spend the winter under fallen leaves. By damaging the leaf, mites sharply reduce the yield and quality of the fruit. Most often, spider mites appear on weeds, and then “move” to the bush. It is necessary to fight the tick even before the female lays eggs: spraying with any of the acaricides will be an effective method.
Important! Necessary alternate medications, as the ticks will develop immunity and there will be no effect over time.
good folk method is watering currant bushes hot water with the addition of potassium permanganate (the water should be pale pink).
This pest overwinters in loose currant bark. You can distinguish a young moth - it is red, and an old one - olive green. The bud moth feasts on buds and berries, and also damages shoots in winter. The eggs are laid in green berries, from which the seeds are then eaten, not allowing the berries to ripen. Control methods are as follows: cutting out damaged bushes and shoots in the fall, treating with Karbofos (10%) no more than twice per season. It is also very important to monitor the density of the planting and, if necessary, clean the planting site.
Currant gall midges
There are three types of gall midges that can attack your currants: shoot, flower and leaf. Their operating principle is very similar, although they appear in different times: shoot - during the flowering period of currants, leaf - at the beginning of flowering, and flower - during the formation of buds. They also lay eggs in different ways: leafy - on young leaves, not allowing them to bloom; floral - in buds that turn yellow or red over time and do not fall off without blooming; shoot - on the lower part of the shoots, which are already covered with wood. To combat gall midges, you need to cut out damaged shoots and bushes and also spray them with insecticides during the formation of buds.
- this is a greenish-copper beetle, small size. Usually overwinters in shoots. The larvae hatch in late May - early June. The larvae create "tunnels" in the middle of the shoot. The branches that have been damaged by the borers dry out and die, and the growth on the remaining ones is very small. They fight borers by destroying damaged shoots and burning them. In early spring, you can spray the bushes with Parisian greens (15 g per 10 liters of water, and for a better effect you can add another 30 g of lime).
Currant bud mite
Currant bud mite- the most dangerous insect pest for currants, because it attacks the buds, feeds on them and, worst of all, overwinters in them. Over the course of a season, several generations of mites may appear in the garden; they are usually spread to other plants by the wind. Best method fight against bud mites - timely pruning of damaged bushes and uprooting of completely infected bushes. To prevent the appearance of ticks, you can also plant onions or garlic between the bushes - ticks do not like strong odors. It is important to use healthy planting material; to be completely sure, you can soak the seedlings in hot water for 15-20 minutes.
Female glassworts lay eggs in the damaged bark of branches and trunks. Caterpillars that hatch can make tunnels up to 40 cm. The caterpillars spend two seasons in the bark, gradually “making their way” to the exit. The glass itself appears after flowering. The butterfly is scaly, lilac-black in color with transverse stripes on the belly. The fight against glassware on currants is a complex process. It lies primarily in timely pruning bushes, spraying with insecticides, regularly inspecting the bush and lubricating the cuts with a disinfectant.
Preventative pest control measures
Prevention of pests should begin before winter: Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!
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Are the currant bushes, which once delighted you with an abundance of harvest, withering away right before your eyes? Apparently, currant diseases have not spared your plantings either. To react in time and take the necessary measures to save your loved one garden culture, read our article about what diseases affect the plant and how to fight them.
Article outline
Disease Prevention
An integrated approach to treating currant bushes twice a season (in autumn and spring) will help prevent, and sometimes even completely avoid, infection of the plant with various viral, fungal diseases and pests.
How to process currants in spring?
Due to the early onset of sap flow, preventive measures to improve the health of plant bushes are carried out in early spring before the buds swell. The fight against pests and diseases of black and red currants begins with a “hot shower.”
To irrigate three bushes you will need 10 liters of hot water at 80 degrees. Upon completion of watering, the bushes must be carefully inspected and dry branches, mite-affected buds must be removed, and the soil at the base of the bush must be cleared of weed residues and last year’s leaves (a favorite wintering place for pest larvae).
- For preventive purposes, the bush and the ground under it must be treated with nitrophen. This spraying will reduce the risk of infection by 70%. It is important to carry out the treatment before the buds open.
- Currants are also useful, aimed at destroying fungal spores, and during the period of active growth the bush can be sprayed regularly (once every 2 weeks).
Important! In order for currant bushes to survive the spraying procedure against bud mites without harm to health, the plant is treated at temperatures above +20 degrees. At lower thermometer readings, you need to wrap the bushes in transparent polyethylene.
Preventative treatment in autumn
Before treatment, it is necessary to thoroughly prune the plant, during which old branches are removed (at least 2/3 of the total length), branches affected by vitreous (withered, dry) and buds affected by spider mites are cut out.
For spraying, choose a warm, clear, windless day. Agrotechnicians offer two options for preventive treatment: or a 2% solution of karbofos.
Preventive measures significantly reduce the likelihood of many diseases, in particular fungal infections.
Diseases: description with photos and methods of treatment
There are a number of common diseases that threaten all types of currants, including black, red and white berries.
Anthracnose 
Symptoms: the appearance on the surface of the leaves of small red and brown spots with almost dark tubercles in the center; subsequently, the diseased leaves wither and fall off.
Treatment:
Spraying currant leaves with Bordeaux mixture is carried out twice: the first treatment is carried out immediately after signs of the disease are detected, the second - after harvesting.
Fallen leaves must be collected and destroyed. Under no circumstances should young currant seedlings be planted in a place where shrubs with anthracnose grew.
Powdery mildew 
Symptoms: loose plaque white on the leaves, gradually spreading to the berries.
Treatment:
If detected early, a fungal disease can be cured by spraying the bush biological drug « ».
Can be used to treat powdery mildew folk remedy: dilute a bottle of iodine in a bucket of water and spray the currants on a leaf every four days.
Rust 
Symptoms: orange rusty spots on leaves.
Treatment:
Fungicides of various levels are used against rust:
- "Fitosporin"
- Bordeaux mixture.
To fully restore the plant, you will need to spray it four times with an interval of 10 days.
Septoria 
Symptoms: currant leaf disease manifests itself in the form of numerous brown spots.
Treatment:
An effective remedy for fungal leaf disease is: dilute 40 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.
Spheroteka 
Symptoms: leaf deformation, persistent white coating covering the entire surface of the bush.
Treatment:
At the initial stage of the disease, you can use the traditional method of treatment: dilute 50 g of grated laundry soap and 50 g of soda ash. Spraying is carried out several times until complete cure with an interval of 5 days.
IN advanced case use in 10 liters of water.
Striped mosaic 
Symptoms: leaf veins are duplicated in orange or yellow.
Treatment:
There is no cure for a viral disease. When a mosaic is detected, the diseased plant is immediately uprooted, leaving no root stubs, and burned.
Black currants have weak immunity, so they need regular preventative spraying and proper care. Among the common diseases of the crop, there is a disease that affects only shrubs with black berries:
Reversion (terry) 
Symptoms: leaf deformation (asymmetry, three-lobed leaves), flower petals lengthen, leaf color changes to purple, the plant does not bear fruit.
Treatment:
A plant infected with a mutation virus cannot be treated and can infect nearby blackcurrant plantings. To avoid large losses, it would be more advisable to remove the diseased bush by the roots and burn it.
Unlike black currants, red currants get sick less often and resist viruses, without preventive treatments for a long time. However, do not neglect the rules of caring for the plant. Red and white currants can become infected with a fungal disease:
Nectria drying of shoots 
Symptoms: formation of bumpy specks orange color on the surface of the shoots, which gradually grow, and during the period of maturation, fungal spores darken.
Treatment:
If treatment is delayed until long box, you can lose the entire plant. Be also prepared for the fact that young shoots affected by nectarium drying cannot be saved.
As soon as you notice the first signs of the disease, immediately remove all infected shoots and treat the cut areas with garden varnish or Bordeaux mixture.
In most cases, plant diseases can only be cured if the gardener immediately responds to the first symptoms of plant infection.
Disease resistant varieties
As a result of breeding work, many varieties have now been developed that have natural immunity to a number of common currant diseases and pests.
Blackcurrant varieties
Katyusha
The Belarusian variety is not afraid of either powdery mildew or anthracnose. Fragrant berries have an oval shape, the owner of this variety manages to get a bountiful harvest every year.
Klussonovskaya
The best option for planting if main problem The area became powdery mildew and bud mites.
Kupalinka
Has similar characteristics Belarusian variety thin-skinned black currants, which are not susceptible to infection by mites and powdery mildew.
Memory of Vavilov
This variety is not afraid of three diseases: powdery mildew and anthracnose (high degree of resistance), bud mite (medium resistance).
Selechenskaya
Native Russian selection characterized by large berries and high degree resistance to American powdery mildew. Bud mite and anthracnose infect the variety quite rarely.
Titania
The Swiss variety has strong immunity and is not susceptible to anthracnose and powdery mildew, and also has average resistance to tick infection. The Belarusian variety Ceres has similar properties.
Temptation
Surprisingly large blackcurrant sweet berry(up to 3.5g) is not afraid of powdery mildew or various kinds spotting.
Varieties of red currants
Natalie
The high-yielding variety is not susceptible to powdery mildew and anthracnose.
Rondome
This variety of red currant easily resists powdery mildew.
Gazelle
The compact bush will delight the owner with an abundance of harvest and strong immunity to various fungal diseases of currants.
Dutch pink
One of the most delicious varieties red currant is relatively resistant to gall aphids and fungal infections.
When choosing a variety, you cannot rely only on the plant’s resistance to various diseases or pests; it is important to take into account the care requirements and the degree of winter hardiness.
Summer residents' experience
Black and red currants are widely known for their beneficial properties, so every gardener in our country has at least one bush of this incredible delicious berries. In the process of caring berry crop many summer residents face a number of problems, including fungal and viral diseases. We present to your attention gardeners' recommendations on how to deal with certain types of diseases:
Victor:
“I planted currant bushes in different corners of my plot so that in the event of a disease, especially a viral one, the rest of the bushes would not be affected.
I personally encountered powdery mildew. And this recipe helped me:
Pour one teaspoon of 1% copper sulfate into a bucket of clean water. Processed once. The bush began to recover and actively began to grow.
For those who grow currants in one continuous strip, where the plants touch each other, I would advise not to neglect prevention. If a dangerous virus wanders into the area, like a mosaic, not a single bush will be saved!”
Andrey:
“Weakened currant bushes growing in poor soils will be more susceptible to all sorts of ailments. In general, a strong, healthy bush develops excellent immunity to viruses and even fungi, so I always feed the plant in the third year after planting the seedlings.
I do the first feeding in the spring, as soon as I notice that sap flow has begun. For early spring feeding a nitrogen-containing composition is required. Nitrogen helps the shrub grow green mass; naturally, a plant with a well-developed vegetative mass will receive more nutrition and remain healthy for a long time. But you can’t overdo it with nitrogen: for one bush it’s enough.
The second feeding occurs during the berry formation phase. This time I use fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium. I was highly advised convenient way: Apply dry fertilizer to a shallow depth around the perimeter of the bush and spill it with water.
And during the entire period of growth of currants and gooseberries, I throw them to the bush potato peelings For large berries. The fact is that these plants really love starch, so such a simple fertilizer will help increase the yield.”