There are many options for planting violet leaves. I would like to remind you once again that these are answers to frequently asked questions “How to plant a leaf”, “I’m afraid I can’t grow from a leaf...”. These notes are for those who have not yet decided to grow a violet from a leaf. This is my experience of growing violets from leaves. I came to him after countless leaves and mature plants were thrown into the trash. I hope you find it useful.
When to expect what? – we will call all dates from the date of separation of the leaf from the mother plant.
After 3 weeks - roots, after 5 - 6 weeks - children, after 12 weeks - seeding of children from the mother's leaf, after 5 months transplantation into an "adult" pot, after 6 - 9 months - flowers. These are approximate dates!
Leaf stalk (leaf, it consists of a stem stalk and sheet plate)) separated from the mother plant. (We break off the sheet, taking it to the side). If the sheet is damaged, a little scratched, cut - NOTHING TO TERM!!! The upper part (1/3) of the leaf blade is often cut off to speed up the appearance of babies.
Now we’ll cut the cutting, leaving 3 cm. If it accidentally breaks off and remains shorter, the leaf will also take root perfectly.
Let's prepare a slightly warm solution of potassium permanganate, light pink in color. Place the leaf completely in this solution for a few seconds.
The leaf can be rooted in water: This option is less preferable to me - cuttings often rot in water, leaves placed in water often lose turgor. In any case, flower growers very often talk about the death of leaves rooted in this way.
The second option for rooting a leaf. And this method is much better!
The leaf can also be rooted in a light mixture.
Prepare the mixture - simply and quickly:
- A glass of vermiculite
- A glass of perlite
- a glass of any nutritious soil
You can get by with just perlite and vermiculite without adding soil.
Pour this mixture warm boiled water.
Take a plastic pot with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and fill it with the prepared mixture.
We plant a leaf in the mixture, deepening the cutting by 1 cm. If it falls, you can make a support from counting sticks, plastic cocktail tubes, etc. We place it in a greenhouse, or better yet, just cover it with an individual bag.
There should be no water in the pan of the greenhouse; there is already sufficient humidity there. The mixture is completely saturated with water; now the excess water needs to be poured out. No one has ever said that when rooted in this way, the leaves die. Well, what if the leaf has withered? Let's put it in wet moss, and definitely - in a greenhouse, or, more simply put, under a bag. You can cover the entire leaf with wet moss. The secret is high humidity and warmth. And of course, keep the leaves away from the windowsill! So, our leaf is sitting, and we are waiting for the roots.
The leaf does not need to be fertilized with anything. He must look for food - then he puts out roots.
The roots of the leaf appear 2–3 weeks after separation from the mother plant. Sometimes after 4 is also acceptable.
When “babies” appear at the base of the leaf (after about 5 - 6 weeks), the greenhouse can be removed - first gradually, for a few minutes a day, and when the “babies” are 2 centimeters high, remove it completely.
It really doesn't matter what kind of soil you use for violets. The main thing is any soil that says “especially for violets, completely ready for use, with the addition of perlite, moss, etc.” In fact
not ready for growing violets.
Leavening agents must be added to it. The best ones are sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Moss absorbs moisture and then gradually releases it to the roots, perlite provides “forced” air access to the roots, vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil loose. You can do without moss and vermiculite, but perlite must be present. You can get by with finely chopped foam.
Leaves and babies should be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Optimal – 24 – 26. Adult violets – at a temperature of at least + 18.
You cannot sprout leaves or “babies” on the windowsill. Leaf or baby needs minimum temperature+20 degrees. On the windowsill at night + 12 – 15. This is only permissible for adult plants (although very undesirable). Place a thermometer on the windowsill and see what the temperature is early in the morning.
So the kids have grown up
Each “baby” has 3–4 pairs of leaves; they reach a height of about 4–5 centimeters.
We seat them. We take the entire plant out of the pot, without trying to shake off the soil. Let the roots of the “babies” remain with lumps of earth on them. Carefully separate the babies from the mother's sheet and from each other. Everyone learns this process only on their own through practice.
Each baby developed a small “wound” - a place of separation from the mother’s leaf. Sprinkle this wound with crushed coal.
We place the children in pots with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The diameter of the children (opened leaves) should be equal to the diameter of the pot.
To plant children, the mixture must contain more nutritious soil.
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Two glasses of nutrient soil
Pour the mixture with warm boiled water and place it in a greenhouse for several days. The greenhouse must have holes for air. The greenhouse should not be completely sealed either for leaves or for children.
When the “kids” became “starters”
young plants ready to lay peduncles (diameter 12-15 cm, leaves with a diameter of 3 - 4 cm, about 6 - 8 leaves)
– we plant them in pots with a diameter of 6–7 cm.
At the bottom of the pot we place drainage pebbles - expanded clay (or moss, or crushed polystyrene foam) in a layer of 1 cm.
Mixture:
- Half a cup of chopped sphagnum moss
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Three glasses of nutrient soil
We don’t put these babies on the windowsill either. There are strong temperature fluctuations even in summer.
You can try placing it on the windowsill when 2-3 months have passed from the mother’s sheet after the children have been seated. It's better not on the south window. In general, there is a lot of trouble with the window sill. Certain varieties cannot stand the sun; the plants need to be shaded. During the day they can “hang” leaves. Plants are often attacked on windowsills powdery mildew – white coating on flowers and buds, rot, fungal diseases. So, it is best to grow violets on a shelf under lighting. A lamp (3 cm in diameter) 60 cm long at a distance of 25 cm from the crown of the plants illuminates a shelf 30 cm wide. In this case, two thin Chinese lamps with a power of 20 Watt (the diameter of such a lamp are 1 cm) are needed. Any lamp is suitable, it’s a matter of lighting intensity. The light should be brighter than for reading.
The violet should receive bright light for 12 to 14 hours daily. On the windowsill, in any case, it only receives enough light from March to September. In October, normal light is only from 9 am to 5 pm - that’s 8 hours, and in winter it’s even less. That's why violets bloom on the windowsill by May - two months of normal lighting have passed
(March and April). 60 days is the normal period for the formation of a peduncle and its development.
On shelves under lighting, violets bloom for 2 months, then rest for 2–3 months. There are no seasons, and leaves take root in any month.
Do not try to plant the violet in a spacious pot.
In too big pot the earth will turn sour, the violet may “disappear” into leaves, and it will not bloom well. The maximum pot for an adult violet is 9–11 cm in diameter (for large varieties– 12 – 13 cm). rule - the diameter of the socket is three times larger diameter pot.
Watering – warm water, settled, boiled, or passed through a filter. Before pouring, add a little boiling water to water at room temperature so that the water is slightly warmer than fresh milk.
Never reuse any components of soil mixtures or drainage! There are two reasons: Firstly, the soil has already given up all its nutrients. Secondly, microorganisms have already begun to multiply there. By the same principle, the same crop should not be planted in the same garden bed for two years in a row.
Good luck to you! source http://fialki-flame.ru/start_first_steps.html 
Saintpaulia uzumbarica is the exact name of the houseplant, which is known to everyone as a simple violet. Saint-Paul Walter, the French military commandant of the German colony, discovered it in the Usambara Mountains of eastern Africa. It got its name in his honor.
Now Saintpaulia is a universal favorite among house plant collectors, because rarely does any species boast such a variety of shapes and colors of flowers and leaves.
Some consider it capricious and demanding of care, others - completely picky, the cultivation of which is no more difficult than any other indoor flower. The difficulties are primarily due to the location of violets in the house relative to the natural solar lighting. This light-loving plant that does not tolerate direct sun rays
. It is easiest to create such conditions on north-eastern and north-western windows. On south side Artificial shading will be needed. Gauze or voile tulle stretched over a window is suitable for protecting flowers from the sun.
Lighting
In the natural African environment, violets grow in partial shade, protected by bushes from the hot rays of the sun, so she needs to create similar conditions indoors. For home Saintpaulia, it does not matter what lighting source is used, whether it is the sun or ordinary light bulb incandescent This is its huge advantage and one of the reasons for the special love of flower growers for it.
Collectors and hobbyists large glass shelves with lighting are used for growing violets fluorescent lamps . They are easy to make yourself or purchase ready-made from flower shops. On the shelves, blooming violets receive the necessary portion of light and look especially impressive.
Violets planted in identical pots look very beautiful on shelves, optimal size which are 10 cm in diameter and the same height. You should not pay much attention to the quality of the container; ceramics or plastic are not important for them. Small size container will not prevent plants from fully developing. For raising violet babies it is good to have special “nurseries” in the form of a rack with small pots. The variety of Saintpaulia varieties requires individual selection of pots. Among the small-growing varieties of violets, there are quite large ones, which will require more spacious containers.
Soil for Saintpaulia can be purchased ready-made, although experienced flower growers find it too easy and prefer to compose soil mixture yourself. Drainage is laid out at the bottom of one third of the pot. It could be charcoal, expanded clay or broken brick. Sawdust is not suitable for violets as drainage.
The composition of store-bought soil for violets includes:
- turf land;
- humus
- sand;
- sphagnum moss
You can independently take soil of a similar composition from the forest. The advantage of store-bought soil is its biological sterility.
A mandatory requirement for the soil mixture is high looseness with good air exchange.
To propagate Saintpaulia uzambarskaya, lower leaves, small basal rosettes and peduncles are used. Leaves are most commonly used, but with this method, some selected varieties of violets do not inherit the characteristics of the mother plant. In such cases, they resort to propagation with a ready-made rosette or peduncle.
In order to leaf cuttings roots have given, they are placed in a container with filtered or settled water. After 1.5 - 2 months, sprouts form at the ends of the cuttings. The time for the formation of children, depending on the variety, is purely individual; some require up to 4 months. It is not necessary to keep the cuttings in water, planting a leaf directly into a pot may be more justified. At the time of seating root system small rosettes when grown in the ground are stronger, in contrast to those formed and grown in water.
Young plants are carefully planted in pots 5-6 cm in diameter. The soil for them should be less nutritious than for adult plants. They will undergo the next final transplant at the age of 3-4 months. Usually, from the moment the sprout takes root in the ground until flowering, about six months pass.
Necessary humidity conditions and watering of violets
Violets cannot be watered haphazardly. These are not geraniums that can be poured today and then dried; they will forgive everything and survive. Violets need proper watering; soil moisture must be carefully monitored, since the main cause of plant death is root rotting due to excessive watering. That is why the soil used for planting is loose, and the drainage layer is quite large.
For watering melt, rain or settled water at room temperature is used. It should not stagnate; it should be poured into a tray or under the root, avoiding getting on the leaves. Excess water It should be poured out of the pan after 20 minutes. It is recommended to carefully absorb drops of water on the leaves with a napkin. From refraction sunlight Burn spots may appear in these areas.
The room temperature is maintained at about 22 0 C. At more high temperature the air becomes drier, which affects the condition of the violets. The buds are poorly laid, the flowers become smaller and quickly wither.
Top dressing
planted in nutrient soil, the first three months of Saintpaulia do not need feeding. But when all the beneficial substances in the soil have dried up, additional fertilizer cannot be used. It's better to use ready-made ones liquid drugs , they are less hassle, they are easy to dose and are better absorbed. They must be applied at the root. It is advisable to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.
Two hours before applying fertilizer, the flowers should be watered abundantly so as not to burn the roots. Violet is one of those types of plants that are better to underfeed than to overfeed. If her appearance does not cause concern; you don’t have to rush to apply fertilizers. If the leaves of the plant have drooped and began to wither, it does not need extra chemicals. It is better to treat with Epin solution and cover with a bag for 3-4 days.
Violets rarely get sick and are affected by pests. The most common disease is late blight. Signs of the disease - brown spots on the stem and leaves. 
Leads to late blight high humidity soil and air. It is unlikely that it will be possible to revive a sick plant, so the main task will be to protect the rest from infection. The violet should be destroyed, the soil should be thrown away, and the pot should be sterilized.
The most dangerous pest violets is a root nematode. These pests can come from the ground from the street or from under other indoor plants. Violet roots affected by the nematode stop feeding the plant and it quickly dies. To avoid this, it is safer to buy ready soil in the store.
Thrips - small insects living on the back of leaves. If you remove leaves and flowers with thrips in time, the violet can be saved. Sick and infected plants should first be isolated from the rest so that the infection does not spread further.
Some features of caring for violets
There are several specific techniques for caring for Saintpaulia Uzambara.
- Pots with violets must be turned over in relation to the sun to give the rosette the correct shape.
- As the flowers mature, the leaves below are carefully trimmed. Bright and beautiful bouquet Framed by several rows of green leaves, it will have a compact shape and look especially attractive.
- Violets age quite quickly, the stem becomes longer, the flowers become smaller. Maximum term life - two years. Next cut leaves should be used as planting material for young violets or “rejuvenate” the plant. To do this, it is cut off at the root, a few young leaves are left and take root like a young rosette.
- To make violet flowers brighter, water it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The hassle of growing Saintpaulia is more than justified by the end result. It's hard to imagine anything more spectacular among indoor plants than pots of blooming violets. There are about thirty thousand varieties, special exhibitions are held, and there is a club for Saintpaulia lovers. Communication, exchange of experience, attempts at selection - all this unites a large group of people around a small, beautiful and delicate indoor flower - Saintpaulia Uzambara or simply violet.
Violets in the house: how long do they live, do they need to be rejuvenated, how to rejuvenate and replant violets? Read today's article if the topic is relevant to you.
How many years does an indoor violet live?
The plant “once and for a lifetime” is about violet. This miniature plant is a true long-living record holder among plants. By regularly renewing, replanting and rejuvenating the violet, you can spend decades in the company of your flower friend; the only question is how to properly develop and renew the violet.
In apartment conditions, violets are displayed on window sills, placed next to heating devices , which can spoil the health of the flower - the leaves will fall off and the earthen ball will dry out. Diseases can be prevented if you manage the location correctly and renew the shoots. Then the violet lives 10-15 years without problems, and then the question re-care.
How to rejuvenate a violet:
- Cut off the apical part when the stem is exposed;
- Sprinkle the remaining “stump” with coal;
- Cuttings can be propagated;
Periodically, the violet will become bare, revealing leaves and shoots, which indicates a lack of nutrition, about the obsolescence of the root system, the need for replanting or pruning. In this case, all wilted leaves are removed from the plant. You can improve the soil from time to time by removing top layer and adding new soil. For a more serious update, a transplant is carried out: transfer the violet from the pot onto an oilcloth, clear away any clods of old soil, inspect and, if necessary, trim the root system.
New soil for planting indoor violets:
- 1 cm of small pebbles on the bottom;
- 1 part sand;
- 1 part leaf soil;
- 1 part turf;
- A couple of pieces of sphagnum moss;
After replanting, the rosette of leaves will be renewed and the violet will return to its former vibrant, varietal color. In a couple of months, new roots will even grow, which will give rise to living shoots - up to 2-3 cm each.
How to feed a violet to live longer?
In addition to the standard mixture, additional fertilizers are needed to stimulate development. Violet is often fed “Uniflor-growth” or “Uniflor-bud”, which has proven itself well among flower growers. For additional leaf growth, you need constant daylight in the spring and lighting with lamps in the winter.
The violet will live a long time
As it grows upper part violets will increase. We know that the pot is chosen just right for the plant - in a large one, growth stops - but if development is rapid, do not be afraid to change it. No matter how many years the indoor violet lives, it needs to be provided suitable conditions , that is, take into account basic needs: pot, soil, watering, temperature, lighting.
Essentially The longevity of violets is based on the characteristics of the variety and care of the flower. The last point lies entirely on the shoulders of the florist. Replanting can be done no more than once every 3 years, but the rejuvenation of the rosette of leaves described above should be done once every 2 years. Removing dead parts and leaves as necessary. With the help of care you can easily make the violet the first 60 or 80 summer plant in the history of floriculture.
↓ Write in the comments how long does your indoor violet live? How do you renew a plant?
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READ ALSO:
Growing violets from peduncles
Transplanting violets at home
Violet propagation methods
Pests of Uzambara violet
Uzambara violet propagation by leaf
Why don't indoor violets bloom?
Many people love and breed them at home. These cute plants bloom very beautifully and for a long time, while most varieties are quite unpretentious in care. There is a considerable selection of indoor violets of various varieties with leaves of different sizes and shapes, and shades of flowers.
Indoor violets - types
When violet first began to be studied, there were about 20 species. Over time, new varieties were developed that differ in color, leaf shape, and inflorescences.
By type of inflorescence enlarged indoor flowers Violets are divided into terry and fringed. The color of both can be very different, including single-color, multi-color, with patterns, with a border. U hanging species with branched stems there are few inflorescences, in other species the inflorescences are clustered and there are many of them.
How to breed indoor violets?
If you suddenly saw pots with multi-colored violets at someone’s house and really wanted to grow them in your own, you just need to ask the hostess to break off one leaf from each plant for you.
You can either immediately plant them in the ground and cover the pots with polyethylene with holes, or put them in a glass of water with diluted activated carbon until roots appear.
If an adult plant already has daughter sockets, you can plant them in separate containers. Propagate violets better in spring in March-April.
By the way, violets need to be rejuvenated periodically. Few people wondered how long they live indoor violet. It turns out that it also has a limited life, after which it degenerates, sheds its lower leaves and resembles a palm tree. This is harmful for her, her rosette becomes smaller, her flowers become smaller. Therefore, once every couple of years you need to transship.
You need to replant them in large pots, covering them with film for the first time. When you notice intensive growth, the polyethylene can be removed.
Uzambara violet.
Family Gesneriaceae - Gesneriaceae.
Genus Saintpaulia hybrida - Hybrid Saintpaulia.
African violet saintpaulia hybrid.
How to raise a baby violet to flowering plant
Growing a baby to a flowering plant.
If you bought a baby in a glass from a breeder, then do not rush to replant it. The volume of the pot needs to be increased after the root system of the baby has completely mastered the earthen lump in the glass.
Violets at the stage between baby and adult plants are called “starters”. These are young plants, old enough to bloom for the first time, but not yet strong enough to have a show cap bloom. It is at this stage that violets need to be transferred (or transplanted) to large pots and into a more nutritious substrate.
When transplanting starters, you can remove the small lower, juvenile leaves. Juvenile (i.e. baby) leaves should be removed after a sufficient number of true leaves have formed. If the stem is exposed, you can add more soil or plant the violet a little deeper, but do not cover the petioles lower leaves. When planting a plant, you need to take into account that the growing point should be above ground level.
When the young rosettes reach a diameter of one and a half to two times the diameter of the pot, they need to be transplanted into larger pots, 6-7 centimeters. Before transplanting, the soil in the pot should not be wet, so as not to tear off the fragile thin roots of young plants.
It is necessary to reload the socket, i.e. do not shake the soil from the roots, but simply add soil mixture for adult violets to the bottom and around earthen coma in more spacious pot. If the plant is unstable, then the rosette can be secured with plastic sticks, inserting them between the leaf cuttings closer to the center of the rosette, until the roots grow.
If the soil is constantly “flooded” (watering is frequent and plentiful), then already in childhood an irregular rosette is formed - the leaves are bent, the middle is “compacted”, it is possible brown coating on the youngest leaves, the cuttings have difficulty straightening out for growth. Here it is necessary to replace the soil, add more agroperlite or vermiculite to it and reduce watering. When the soil has low air permeability and moisture capacity, root plant will also not be able to form a good outlet.
The starter is almost an adult violet, now lighting plays a very important role. A beautiful rosette needs to be formed starting from childhood. When the baby begins to grow new leaves, the lower small leaves are torn off, thereby making the rosette flatter and more symmetrical. After this, new leaves grow well.
Constantly turn the violet towards the light source so that it does not grow one-sided. Remove old, unsightly and malformed leaves to help form an even rosette. If violets are grown on a wick, it's time to start feeding them with a weak fertilizer solution.
It is advisable to remove emerging buds, since the violet is not yet ready to bloom. You can wait for the first buds, make sure that the violet has bloomed according to the variety and pick them off so that the violet gains strength for full flowering. Whether or not to pluck the flower stalks is up to you. If the variety is fancy, then it is advisable to bring them all to flowering and leave the most accurate variety.
It is also important to remove any stepsons that appear. They prolong the time before flowering, and in addition the rosette is formed unevenly. Stepchildren can be taken for propagation; they are very easy to root; in addition, the stepson is almost 90% consistent with the variety (this is especially true for fantasy varieties and chimera violets). In this case, before removing it, it should be allowed to grow a little more.
The correct rosette is flat, the leaves grow freely. If the center is clogged, the soil is acidified and needs to be replanted. new soil And larger size pot.
If the leaves grow on a very long stem, then pay attention to the lighting this place. In this case there is not enough light. If the middle is very dense, then in this case there may be overexposure - excess lighting. You need to change the place on the windowsill or shelf. Dense leaves on short petioles may be a varietal feature.
There are varieties of violets that grow with “hands up” cuttings. Sometimes these are characteristics of the variety, but most often it is a lack of lighting. In this case, you need to look for a place where the outlet will be more comfortable. You will have to move it to a new place more than once to find the best one. If “hands up” - varietal feature, then nothing can be done about it, but if it’s due to lack of lighting, then this problem can be quickly solved with additional lighting. But there are also varieties that form a rosette hugging the pot.
With further growth, temperature plays a role in the formation of the rosette. The higher it is on a shelf or window sill, the denser the middle of the outlet becomes. There are varieties that form a rosette correctly only in a cool place. Pay special attention to varieties of violets with curly leaves. At elevated temperature the middles of these rosettes will grow like a head of cabbage. Sometimes you have to disassemble the middle of the socket with your hands, since they will not be able to straighten themselves. It is better to place such varieties in the coolest place.
There are no definite recipes for correcting the lopsidedness of the rosette; everything is decided in each specific case, where it is better to replant with deepening of the stem, and where re-rooting can only straighten the violet.
Approximate timing of plant formation:
3-4 weeks – roots appear from the leaves;
5-6 weeks – appearance of “babies”;
3 months – separation of the “babies” from the mother’s leaf;
7-9 months – flowering of young bushes.