Because wood is living natural material, then in wooden log house happens after assembly natural process drying of logs.
As a result, horizontal deformations, torsion and vertical displacement of the rims occur.
To eliminate the destructive effects of drying logs and timber on window blocks, a special installation technology is used, called sash or casing. Its essence is to create a sliding fastening of the window block, in which the shrinkage of the frame does not affect its geometry and integrity.
Window window in wooden house is done before caulking work begins. The casing box (casing box) is a durable wooden frame assembled from thick, well-dried boards coniferous species. The frame of the frame consists of a window sill, two risers (sidewalls) and a closing top board.
The dimensions of the frame are selected depending on the size of the opening, leaving a gap of 3-5 mm between the side posts of the frame and the wall for laying insulation. The width of the frame boards should be equal to the thickness of the log house walls.
Features of installation of the pigtail
The casing is installed in such a way that when the walls of the log house shrink, its crowns can move freely vertically under the influence of their own weight. To do this, a gap of 40-60 mm is left between the box and the upper crown, which gradually decreases during the shrinkage process, compensating for the vertical displacement of the logs.
Protrusions (grooves) are made on the sides of the casing frame. Under the influence of the settlement of the crowns, the casing frame slides along these guides, eliminating pressure on window unit from the log side.
In addition to protecting window blocks from deformation, the frame (casing) reliably strengthens the ends of the openings and prevents the crowns from falling out under their own weight.
Okosyachka window openings can be done in two design options: U-shaped (into a deck) or T-shaped (into a tenon).
U-shaped pigtail is performed in this order. A window sill board is placed in the opening and fixed to lower crown self-tapping screws. At the ends wooden wall Spikes are cut with a chainsaw. The side parts of the casing frame are installed on them, in which grooves are cut according to the size of the tenons. Along these grooves, under the influence of shrinkage, vertical movement of the logs occurs.
All contact surfaces of the frame with the walls are treated with an antiseptic solution, and a soft compressible insulation is laid between the groove and the tenon (it is prohibited to use polyurethane foam!)
The insulation (flax batting) is fixed to the wood using a construction stapler.
The last stage of installation of the casing frame (frame) in timber house is the installation of a topper - a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm. It is placed opposite the side posts and attached to them using self-tapping screws.
Installation of a T-shaped pigtail doesn't have fundamental differences from installation of the U-shaped. The difference is that not a tenon, but a groove is cut out at the end of the window opening. A groove is also selected on the sides of the casing frame and glued into it wooden block, thus obtaining T-profile the right size.
The glued block plays the role of a stiffening rib, ensuring the unchanged geometry of the frame and uniform shrinkage of the wall.
The casing of T-type windows requires installers to have precise markings, correct fitting of elements and knowledge important nuances assemblies. In particular, if the block is not glued into the side of the frame, but simply screwed to it with self-tapping screws, there is a risk of blowing and freezing of this structure. Therefore, anyone who wants to make a window frame with their own hands will do better with a U-shaped casing, as it is easier to manufacture and install.
How to make a window frame correctly will tell you step by step guide, which can be found on the Internet or a video posted online by specialized companies. However, when assembling such a structure with your own hands, questions always arise. Therefore we will say a few words about correct sequence its installation.
First you need to install a window sill board in the opening, then put one of the side posts on the insulated end tenon, then top board and a second side stand.
It will be useful for owners of log houses in which the processes of drying and shrinking the walls have already been completed to know that the frame in such houses must also be installed before installing wooden or plastic windows.
The fact is that the completion of shrinkage does not mean a complete cessation of the process of changing the size of logs and timber. It is always necessary to take into account the significant seasonal deformations of this material, which without installing the casing will cause distortion and jamming of the windows.
A strong argument for doing window frames yourself at budget option construction wooden house is the rather high cost of such work.
So, in the price tags of companies that carry out window framing, the cost of this work for timber house(with cutting and preparation of openings) is 2500-3000 rubles per opening.
For a log house made of profiled timber, it is estimated at 3,800 to 4,900 rubles, and for log houses made of rounded logs, installation of casing will cost the customer 5,000 to 5,700 rubles, excluding the price of the material.
Some performers regard their work on installing the jug as linear meters, although when converted to one window opening the price is approximately the same as we indicated above.
Useful video
Any wood used in the construction of a house is a living, mobile material. tree having high degree humidity or low, susceptible to drying out warm season and swelling in rainy weather. It is believed that shrinkage continues for 10 years, but even after that the tree will play, changing volumes depending on climatic conditions. Installed on window and doorways the casing will protect them from deformation and normalize the process of wall shrinkage.
The presence of casing is especially important if plastic windows are installed in a wooden building. The casing structure will not allow the logs to press on the plastic using the movement of the expansion gap.
Device
Installation of a casing or frame for a wooden house as an additional protective windows and door design is required.
What is it?
This is a structure that is placed inside the window opening in the form of an additional box U-shaped. The bottom crossbar is missing. The structure is made from 100x150 timber, mounted with a mandatory technological gap of 20mm on the sides and top, 70mm on top. The gap is filled with insulation, however, its main purpose is to compensate for wall deformation. For a two-story building, the top gap should be at least 100mm. The top bar is attached to the side bars using a tongue-and-groove system.
Design
The essence of the casing design is its independence from the movement of the wall during shrinkage.
Important! The casing box is freely installed in the opening, without fastening with nails, screws and other fasteners to the beam. The entire structure is supported by grooves.
Grooves are sawn through the side posts of the box, and tenons made at the end ends of the wall logs are inserted into them. When shrinking, the wall slides along the grooves as if on rails and does not put pressure on window frame. The upper gap should include the maximum point of the amplitude of movement of the wall during shrinkage.
Purpose and benefits
The main purpose of the additional box is the rigid structure of the window opening to protect it from deformation. It strengthens the strength of the connections between the window and the opening, creating a technological gap for the movement of the wall during drying and swelling. To the benefits additional design It should also include improving the aesthetic qualities of the window, as well as increasing its tightness.
Installation options in a wooden house
In practice, two options for casing design in a wooden house are used. The pigtail can be attached:
- using a sliding block;
- using a spike.
Fastening with a block is done like this. The side planes of the opening are equipped with a 50x50mm groove, a 30x30mm block is inserted into it to leave space for the insulation, and the side elements of the casing are attached to the block. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws or nails, selecting them according to the size of the bar.
Fastening with a tenon is similar, only a 30x30mm ridge is made in the side walls of the opening, in vertical racks The casing makes a groove 50x50mm.
The additional box is made of durable wood. Today you can buy a ready-made joint:
- made of solid wood, preserving the natural texture;
- adhesive made from a typesetting board with a glued tenon;
- combined, side posts and top crossbar, which is made of solid wood, window sill made of laminated boards.
For each window you need to select a frame separately, taking into account its size, material, and mounting capabilities. The edging can be done with a quarter cut under the window if exterior finishing is not planned, without a cut under the window if finishing is planned various materials. The window can be rough (with a bar), if the window then closes it and finished (in a tenon). The geometry of the casing completely depends on the geometry of the window; it can be square, round, oval, rectangular.
Advice! Glued casing – ready material. When installing a structure with your own hands, you should give preference to it. The design is easy to install, manufactured using special factory equipment, it has no knots or cracks, and is resistant to rotting, as it is processed by special means, aesthetic.
Casing installation
When making an additional box with your own hands, you will need a beam of appropriate sizes (for a classic frame, a 50x50 monolithic beam and a forty board are suitable), insulation (it is better to use jute strips), a saw, a level, a router and a stapler.
Monolithic casing can be T-shaped or U-shaped, depending on how the tenon is made.
On the left is a U-shaped casing, on the right is a T-shaped casing
The U-shaped design consists of two side and top elements with grooves. It is fixed on the protruding spikes of the window opening. The T-shaped structure has the same structure, except that it is equipped with tenons that snap into the grooves of the opening.
Advice! DO NOT use laminated veneer lumber in a bathhouse for casing; over time, the glue will break down from humidity and temperature and become deformed, thus reducing the strength of the structure. Monolithic timber must have a residual moisture content of no more than 12%. You can dry the timber yourself in a dark, ventilated room.
The spike on the side surfaces of the box is done like this. Markings are applied, the width of the tenon should be 5mm less than the width of the groove.
Important! The width is marked at the end, the length is measured along the side of the log. The marking line must be strictly vertical.
The cuts are made using a circular or electric saw. A circular one is more convenient in this case.
Next they make a groove. Markings are applied to the end of the opening; the groove should be 5mm larger than the tenon. Using a saw, make two cuts along the marking lines, and remove the core with a chisel. If the cut is deep, the wood should not be completely removed from the groove.
First, the window sill is installed, then the side elements, and last the top casing strip is installed. The box is assembled. If difficulties arise with installing the upper part (top), do not immediately file the openings. The box should be sealed using spacers equal in length to the opening.
The spacer is installed obliquely and knocked down until the seal settles down, making room for the top bar.
If the technology seems incomprehensible or complicated, you should contact specialists. The cost of work is not high today. Depending on the type of casing, the dimensions of the window and its design (with or without opening sashes), the price will range from 5,000 to 8,500 rubles.
The casing is essentially a protective element in the design of a window or door opening, which ensures the safety of the geometry of the windows/doors. A casing or window frame in a wooden house is a kind of buffer between a heavy “living” wall and fragile glass. The correct casing will last as many years as the house itself.
The need to line openings is determined by the very nature of a wooden house. Let us explain in more detail - the vast majority of log houses/ timber houses built from wood natural humidity(that is, no one specially dries the logs before construction). This wood begins to gradually dry out, while decreasing in size. Accordingly, the walls “sit down” in height.
The process of house shrinkage lasts for years. But even after 3-5 years, no one will undertake to guarantee that the openings will not leak in the future. Therefore, since ancient times, windows and doors in wooden houses were installed with casing boxes - they were then called decks.
Painting by Vasily Maximov " Internal view hut”, 1869 - a door framed from a log.
Modern casing is a technological thing, perfectly suited for installing plastic and aluminum windows, heavy balcony blocks, metal entrance doors. Let's take a closer look at what types of casing are now popular, methods of its manufacture, and installation scheme in openings.
Types of casing
The classic casing block looks like the letter “P” from the end. Now this form of casing also remains the most popular. In timber houses with thin walls, casing with the letter “T” has become popular. Separately, it is worth highlighting the casing in the embedded (cranial) block. These are 3 main types of casing boxes.
For each of these types, different profile geometries have also been developed - with or without a quarter cut, with a slant, or antique. According to processing methods and purpose, they also distinguish between rough and finishing casing, Euro casing, power casing, arched casing, carriage casing, semi-antique casing, and plywood casing. There are even combined options, when the outer layer of the product is made of valuable species wood
Let us consider in detail each type of casing.
Casing with the letter "P"
Time-tested form casing. Sturdy, reliable. It is most often installed in log houses and houses made of rounded logs. Usually with outside A quarter of the casing is selected for installation of a window or door frame.
Requires the formation of a tenon in the wall.
Casing with the letter "T"
T-casing appeared on the market relatively recently, when profiled timber with cut bowls entered the market. At the ends of the openings of such house kits, a groove was already selected from the factory.
T-type is used mainly in timber houses with a wall thickness of 100-150 mm, and log houses made of rounded logs of small diameter. Requires cutting a groove in the wall. In a high-quality T-pipe, the spike is glued into the body, which greatly increases the rigidity of the product. It’s even better when the tenon and the main one are one.
Casing in a mortgage (cranial) block
Defective T-type casing box. The embedding block is usually used at the stage of cutting or assembling a log house so that the openings do not warp. After construction is completed, a wide board is attached to this beam with self-tapping screws, to which the frame (window, door) is attached.
If you use regular lumber from the market (not chamber drying), then there is a high probability of getting reworked in the future. Reasons: the block is pinched and bent when the frame shrinks, which causes it to jam in the groove and stops the shrinkage. When the board dries, it warps the frame. The block is pressed against the board only at the points where it is fastened with self-tapping screws - it bends relative to them, and the casing begins to blow through.
From the practice of our company, per year our teams remodel up to 80 other people’s properties, where windows and doors were installed in embedded bars. The photo shows a real case.
Rough casing (for finishing)
An inexpensive option for frames for log houses and log houses where further finishing is planned. All parts of the casing can be made from solid wood or using the adhesive method; polishing of the products is not performed. Profile shape T or P, quarter not selectable. Plastic windows are placed on an installation profile, the window sill is plastic, and the slopes are usually also made of PVC. Inside and outside the opening is finished with platbands.
The window is installed on a plane (without making a groove).
Finishing from solid wood
Must be made only from high-quality and dry wood. Most often from ordinary pine after forced drying, Karelian pine, cedar, larch, KELO cracker. U-type profile shape, with or without choice of quarter. Looks great in log cabins manual cutting, houses made of thick logs, gun carriages.
Euro casing (finishing glue)
A popular option for finishing casing (which does not require finishing of slopes). It is made using the glue-type method from dry bars - glued into a sheet (with knots) or into a micro-tenon (without knots). The profile of the euro casing can be P and T type, straight or with an extension into the opening, with or without a quarter.
Antique gun carriage casing
Casing box made from KELO carriage - for high-status houses and bathhouses, hunting lodges. Does not require installation of platbands - the seam between the casing and the wall is caulked and closed decorative rope. The visible part of the casing is skillfully aged (firing, brushing). P-type casing profile, options with or without quarter opening, with expansion of openings into the house.
Antique casing (with platbands)
Classic European casing is fired and aged using the brushing method (during processing, the soft fibers of the top layer are removed, the surface becomes rough, but polished). T- and P-type profiles, quarter cuts, and opening expansion are possible. Wooden trims performed in the same style.
Combined casing
The base of the product is made of solid pine, and top layer from a composite adhesive board, which can be made of pine, oak, beech, and valuable wood species. Combined casing successfully combines a reasonable price and aesthetic appearance. The profile of such casing can be P or T type.
Plywood casing
The technology for manufacturing a plywood casing is the same as for LVL timber. The plywood sheets are glued together securely. The tenon in the T-profile can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
The plywood casing can be used as a rough casing (for finishing).
How the casing is installed
IN general view, the process technology is as follows:
- an opening is cut in the wall
- a tenon is formed on the sides of the opening or a groove is selected
- the opening is insulated with jute tape
- a wind block is laid at the bottom of the opening and a window sill is mounted
- risers are installed
- the top is mounted
- the free space above the top is sealed with soft insulation
Differences in the installation of door and window casing
The door casing may be missing the lower part - the threshold. In this case, the bottom of the risers is bolted to the lower crown/beam.
The lower part is always present in the window casing. But its appearance may differ. The following options are possible:
- in the rough casing, the lower part is not visible. The window sill is usually plastic, matching the color of the frame.
- in the finishing/Euro casing, the lower part acts as a window sill. In this case, the casing can move inside the room and to the sides of the opening, forming so-called ears.
The video shows the entire installation process door casing in a timber house (T-type, with the formation of a spike in the wall):
Technology for installing casing in timber or log house the same.
Manufacturing of casing
High-quality casing should be made of dry wood (forced drying in drying chambers, output humidity 8-10%). Board, beam with construction market They are poorly suited for these purposes, precisely because of the high humidity.
Pine wood is most often used, as it is the most common and inexpensive. Spruce is also used. Exclusive options are also possible - cedar, larch, Karelian pine, KELO crackers.
The basis for the solid casing is a carriage with a thickness of 50 mm or more. For P-casing, a carriage of 90 mm is used. The width of the casing board is equal to the thickness of the wall.
The adhesive casing can be with or without knots. In the first case, the prepared bars are glued together on their sides - this method is called sheet gluing. Knot-free casing is assembled from short bars, which are glued together at their ends - into a microspike (looks like a comb).
How to calculate the size of the casing/opening
Let's say that you want to install a plastic window measuring 1 meter in width and 1.2 meters in height in a log house with a wall thickness of 150 mm. At the same time, only technical openings have been cut in your house. Let's do the math.
First, you need to decide on the type and thickness of the casing. For the selected conditions, casing with a T-shaped profile, glued “in-situ”, 55 mm thick, is ideal. The window sill will be plastic, which means the lower part of the casing can be taken with a smaller thickness - 45 mm.
If the frame is installed without a quarter (on a plane), then the width of the cut opening should be 15 cm greater than the width of the frame (1.5 cm for foam, 0.5 for jute, 55 for the riser). The final width of the opening is 115 cm.
With a quarter, the width of the opening will be +12 cm, the total - 112 cm.
What happens if you leave the openings WITHOUT casing?
Answers to the most frequently asked questions
A special wooden box, popularly and by experts called a “jamb” and “casing”, consists of sides, a top, a window sill board or a threshold. Their installation is carried out in a wooden house in the openings in which doors and windows should be located.
The main purpose of using casing is to preserve doors and windows during the period of inevitable shrinkage in a wooden house. This is one of distinctive features architecture, during which the structure is protected from the risk of displacement of logs. You should not refuse to frame the openings, as this can lead to disruptions in the optimal functioning of windows and doors.
Casing in a wooden house: features
The width of each component element of the pigtail should not exceed 26 cm. Of course, it can be greater than this figure, but then cracks will begin to appear throughout the structure. Frames for windows and doors are made of wood with a moisture content of at least 10%. If it is less, then there may appear internal cracks. Care must be taken when making the pigtail.
Installation of casing in a wooden house occurs without the use of nails and other elements. For maximum comfortable sealing, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation material in the space between the frame and the log.
Types of pigtails
There are several types of pigtails in a wooden house:
- Array. Each piece is made using solid wood processing, while maintaining the wood texture. In the photo you can see what this option looks like;
- Glue. Each element is made from a type-setting glue board. A microspike is attached to each of the four sides. All knots are completely cut out;
- Combined. This option is the most common. Solid pine is used to produce the top and posts. The window sill is made of glued boards. After installation, such a pigtail will need to be coated with a protective varnish.
The casing is manufactured individually for each window or door. It can be made:
- Window casing with a selection under the window. This option is used if the house will not undergo interior finishing;
- Without selection under the window. This solution will be used when both internal and exterior decoration. If you look at the photo, you can see that the pigtail looks better without the selection under the window.
Do-it-yourself window trim - tools
Over time, the construction of a house made of timber shrinks greatly, as the wood dries out. It twists and begins to bend, which can cause damage to doors and windows. To avoid this you need to do a pigtail. The casing in a wooden house is the secret of its durability. In addition, along with it, the building has an attractive appearance.
The production and installation of the pigtail is carried out using the following tools:
- Chainsaw;
- Grinding machine;
- Drill;
- Screwdriver;
- Jigsaw.
You also need to prepare some consumables, these are bits, a measuring tool, protective equipment - goggles with a respirator.
A window frame for a regular window
A simple do-it-yourself frame included in the construction of a house made of profiled timber or any other type includes the following steps:
- Make grooves in the logs adjacent to the opening. A pre-prepared block will be inserted into them;
- The block is one of the sides of the casing. The bottom beam is placed first, the purpose of which is to prevent the sidewalls from moving;
- An interventional sealant must be laid under it in advance, for example linen fabric. In the photo you can see what it looks like;
- Next comes the installation of vertical bars. They also require a sealant to be placed in the grooves;
- The very last thing to install is the top beam of the casing;
- Above the window in mandatory make a shrinkage gap. You also need to place an interventional seal in it.
Some use polyurethane foam as a sealing material. This is undesirable, since it holds the logs together and prevents them from shrinking naturally. Use in making a pigtail with your own hands polyurethane foam makes the whole process useless.
Plug for a plastic window
A slightly different method is used to make do-it-yourself casing for plastic windows.
- You need to prepare the window opening in advance. The opening must be made at least 13 cm larger than the size of the window frame;
- The gap must be calculated taking into account the size of the seams and the percentage of possible shrinkage;
- The next step is cutting out the comb in a ready-made window opening. The comb is needed as a base for the carriage. In the inner part of the carriage there is a groove along which the logs will shrink;
- To make a carriage, you need to prepare a beam with a cross-section of 100x150 and make a groove in the middle. Place a comb on this groove. The size of the carriage should be 5 cm more windows. Also, the width and depth of the carriage should be equal to 5 cm. Its production is carried out in this way: all parameters are clearly marked, then the element is cut out with a chainsaw;
- The upper side of the casing must be made of boards with a section of 40x150 mm. It is necessary to cut grooves for the ridge on the sides of this board. After this, the top crossbar is placed on the ridge;
- After installing the sides, the crossbar must be secured with self-tapping screws. We must not forget that the screws should not hit the ridge. Otherwise, the structure will become rigidly coupled and the casing will not be able to function optimally;
- After completing the assembly of the casing, each gap must be insulated using jute or linen fiber. The ridges and grooves need to be caulked.
To better understand the manufactured window frames, you can watch videos from professionals.
Doorway frame
Making door frames with your own hands is more difficult than window frames. This is due to large size work and with changes in the entire installation technology, the process drawings also change. One of the door frame installation options:
- Using a plumb line and level, you need to take measurements and mark the location of the opening;
- Using a saw, cut out the opening according to the specified parameters. When choosing the size of the doorway, it is worth considering that door frame also takes up a lot of space;
- On each of the sides, using a chainsaw, you need to cut out grooves so that a symmetrical tenon is formed. It will be necessary to connect the opening and casing;
- In the jambs you need to create tenons corresponding to the grooves. You can see how this is done in photos and videos;
- The jambs are wound in with their tenons along with the grooves, after which they are pushed apart by crossbars from the bottom side, and then from the top side of the opening. Over top part there should be a gap of up to 10 cm between the pigtails;
- Rigid fastening of the casing to the walls is excluded. It is necessary to install the frame so that it does not have any effect on the natural shrinkage of the wooden house;
- All joints and gaps must be sealed with flax fiber. We must not forget about the upper gap, the seal of which should compress without problems;
- After this, you need to use platbands to close all the cracks and voids. Then the pigtail will look like in the photo;
- And the last but most important step is treating the entire surface with an antiseptic.
This instruction may be supplemented professional video. After reading and watching it, you will be able to start making your own casing for doors and windows.
It'll never be too late
Even if the frame has stood for more than two years without a frame and has already shrunk, the casing can still be installed. It is guaranteed to retain its original shape and will also make the wall stronger and more stable. In addition, the casing can serve as external decoration. Construction of a house from laminated veneer lumber involves the use of laminated veneer lumber.
Today, a whole industry is engaged in the manufacture of casings, so choosing the casing that suits your interior and window shape is not difficult at all. The manufacture of casing can take place for any opening parameters, but it is worth considering that unusual casings carry some disadvantages that can be dealt with.
Okosyachka: cost and pricing
Production costs can vary greatly, since the cost of a joint depends on large number factors. This is influenced by the quality of wood, types of casing, its shape, presence decorative details, parameters of the opening, as well as the material into which the installation will take place. Of course, on final cost Quantitative indicators will affect how many pieces or meters there are.
The type of casing will have a big impact on the cost. All types differ from each other in technical features:
- “In a mortgage block” is considered the most economical option. Made from edged boards. A groove is cut out on the inner wall into which a block with a square cross-section is placed. Because of quick assembly and attractive price, this option is popular;
- “Spike” is a more expensive option, differs more from the previous variety high quality. This timber is produced with a cross-section shaped like the letter “T”;
- “Into the deck” - has almost the same cost as the previous option. To do this, a tenon is cut into the sides of the opening, onto which a deck shaped like the letter “P” is placed.
Prices for trimming by different companies:
| Company | Installation according to technology | Unit from. | Cost with material (rub.) | Cost including customer's materials (RUB) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| "Department" | In the embedded block | m.p. | 1560 | 1100 |
| To the deck | m.p. | 2650 | 1200 | |
| In the thorn-monolith | m.p. | 1850 | 1250 | |
| "Nareevo" | In the embedded block | m.p. | 1600 | 1200 |
| To the deck | m.p. | 2700 | 1250 | |
| In the thorn-monolith | m.p. | 1950 | 1350 | |
| "Okosyachka" | In the embedded block | m.p. | 1450 | 1000 |
| To the deck | m.p. | 2550 | 1150 | |
| In the thorn-monolith | m.p. | 1750 | 1100 | |
| "Beaver's House" | In the embedded block | m.p. | 1600 | 1200 |
| To the deck | m.p. | 2700 | 1250 | |
| In the thorn-monolith | m.p. | 1750 | 1100 | |
| "Carpenter-And-House" | In the embedded block | m.p. | 1560 | 1100 |
| To the deck | m.p. | 2650 | 1200 | |
| In the thorn-monolith | m.p. | 1850 | 1250 |
To make a pigtail with your own hands, in addition to applying physical effort, you need to have certain skills. Installation done professionally will help avoid deformation during shrinkage. This is a kind of guarantee of a safe home.
Installation technology plastic pvc Windows in a wooden house are different from traditional ones. Compared to brick or concrete, wooden houses are significantly susceptible to shrinkage. Therefore, installation plastic window differs in the preparation of the opening, and even in the sequence of operations.
Features of shrinkage of a wooden house
All houses settle, putting pressure on the ground - stone ones more, wooden ones less. Correct selection type of foundation, taking into account the characteristics of the soil (including its heterogeneity, depth groundwater, the nature of the high water, etc.) allows you to minimize the influence of settlement on the geometry of the structure.
House shrinkage is a consequence of changes in the dimensions of the building materials themselves.
It manifests itself especially strongly in the first years of operation. wooden houses, built from logs or timber of natural moisture. Therefore, installation of windows in a new house is carried out when it has passed the “active phase” of shrinkage, and this is from 6 months to a year (depending on the type of wood, region and cutting season, type of material, etc.). But even then the shrinkage continues, but much less.
Minimum shrinkage for laminated veneer lumber, slightly more for kiln-dried timber. In new houses made from such materials, windows can be installed immediately after the walls are erected and the roof is installed.
But in any case, when installing windows, these features of wooden houses must be taken into account.
The role of the pigtail in a wooden house
The peculiarity of wood is that it reacts unevenly to changes in its own humidity. The longitudinal dimensions (relative to the location of the fibers) remain almost unchanged. A change in its own humidity affects the transverse dimensions - its natural decrease leads to drying out.
Therefore, when a wooden house shrinks, the height of the wall and the vertical size of the window opening decrease.
The only difference is in the order - first they install the window sill, and then attach the frame.
Important! When installing a window, you must ensure that side mount window profile there was no end-to-end connection to the casing.
When foaming a window, the installation seam is protected from the penetration of water vapor from the opening and room side with a vapor-proof film, and from the street side - with a moisture-resistant, vapor-permeable membrane (the so-called warm installation).
Finishing the window with platbands protects the seam from the influence of climatic factors and the destructive effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (plus a decorative function).