Saintpaulia uzumbarica is the exact name of the houseplant, which is known to everyone as a simple violet. Saint-Paul Walter, the French military commandant of the German colony, discovered it in the Usambara Mountains of eastern Africa. It got its name in his honor.
Now Saintpaulia is a universal favorite among house plant collectors, because rarely does any species boast such a variety of shapes and colors of flowers and leaves.
Some consider it capricious and demanding of care, others - completely picky, the cultivation of which is no more difficult than any other indoor flower. The difficulties are primarily due to the location of violets in the house relative to the natural solar lighting. This light-loving plant that does not tolerate direct sun rays
. It is easiest to create such conditions on north-eastern and north-western windows. On south side Artificial shading will be needed. Gauze or voile tulle stretched over a window is suitable for protecting flowers from the sun.
Lighting
In the natural African environment, violets grow in partial shade, protected by bushes from the hot rays of the sun, so she needs to create similar conditions indoors. For home Saintpaulia, it does not matter what lighting source is used, whether it is the sun or ordinary light bulb incandescent This is its huge advantage and one of the reasons for the special love of flower growers for it.
Collectors and hobbyists For growing violets, large glass shelves illuminated with fluorescent lamps are used. They are easy to make yourself or purchase ready-made from flower shops. On the shelves, blooming violets receive the necessary portion of light and look especially impressive.
Violets planted in identical pots look very beautiful on shelves, optimal size which are 10 cm in diameter and the same height. You should not pay much attention to the quality of the container; ceramics or plastic are not important for them. Small size container will not prevent plants from fully developing. For raising violet babies it is good to have special “nurseries” in the form of a rack with small pots. The variety of Saintpaulia varieties requires individual selection of pots. Among the small-growing varieties of violets, there are quite large ones, which will require more spacious containers.
Soil for Saintpaulia can be purchased ready-made, although experienced flower growers find it too easy and prefer to compose soil mixture yourself. Drainage is laid out at the bottom of one third of the pot. It could be charcoal, expanded clay or broken brick. Sawdust is not suitable for violets as drainage.
The composition of store-bought soil for violets includes:
- turf land;
- humus
- sand;
- sphagnum moss
You can independently take soil of a similar composition from the forest. The advantage of store-bought soil is its biological sterility.
A mandatory requirement for the soil mixture is high looseness with good air exchange.
For propagation of Saintpaulia uzambarskaya are used lower leaves, small basal rosettes and peduncles. Leaves are most commonly used, but with this method, some selected varieties of violets do not inherit the characteristics of the mother plant. In such cases, they resort to propagation with a ready-made rosette or peduncle.
In order for leaf cuttings to take root, they are placed in a container with filtered or settled water. After 1.5 - 2 months, sprouts form at the ends of the cuttings. The time for the formation of children, depending on the variety, is purely individual; some require up to 4 months. It is not necessary to keep the cuttings in water, planting a leaf directly into a pot may be more justified. At the time of seating root system small rosettes when grown in the ground are stronger, in contrast to those formed and grown in water.
Young plants are carefully planted in pots 5-6 cm in diameter. The soil for them should be less nutritious than for adult plants. They will undergo the next final transplant at the age of 3-4 months. Usually, from the moment the sprout takes root in the ground until flowering, about six months pass.
Necessary humidity conditions and watering of violets
Violets cannot be watered haphazardly. These are not geraniums that can be poured today and then dried; they will forgive everything and survive. Violets need proper watering; soil moisture must be carefully monitored, since the main cause of plant death is root rotting due to excessive watering. That is why the soil used for planting is loose, and the drainage layer is quite large.
For watering melt, rain or settled water at room temperature is used. It should not stagnate; it should be poured into a tray or under the root, avoiding getting on the leaves. Excess water from the pan should be poured out after 20 minutes. It is recommended to carefully absorb drops of water on the leaves with a napkin. From refraction sunlight Burn spots may appear in these areas.
The room temperature is maintained at about 22 0 C. At higher temperatures, the air becomes drier, which affects the condition of the violets. The buds are poorly laid, the flowers become smaller and quickly wither.
Top dressing
Planted in nutritious soil, Saintpaulia does not need feeding for the first three months. But when all the beneficial substances in the soil have dried up, additional fertilizer cannot be used. It's better to use ready-made ones liquid drugs , they are less hassle, they are easy to dose and are better absorbed. They must be applied at the root. It is advisable to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers.
Two hours before applying fertilizer, the flowers should be watered abundantly so as not to burn the roots. Violet is one of those types of plants that are better to underfeed than to overfeed. If its appearance does not cause concern, you can take your time with fertilizing. If the leaves of the plant have drooped and began to wither, it does not need extra chemicals. It is better to treat with Epin solution and cover with a bag for 3-4 days.
Violets rarely get sick and are affected by pests. The most common disease is late blight. Signs of the disease - brown spots on the stem and leaves. 
Late blight is caused by increased soil and air humidity. It is unlikely that it will be possible to revive a sick plant, so the main task will be to protect the rest from infection. The violet should be destroyed, the soil should be thrown away, and the pot should be sterilized.
The most dangerous pest violets is a root nematode. These pests can come from the ground from the street or from under other indoor plants. Violet roots affected by the nematode stop feeding the plant and it quickly dies. To avoid this, it is safer to buy ready soil in the store.
Thrips - small insects living on the back of leaves. If you remove leaves and flowers with thrips in time, the violet can be saved. Sick and infected plants should first be isolated from the rest so that the infection does not spread further.
Some features of caring for violets
There are several specific techniques for caring for Saintpaulia Uzambara.
- Pots with violets must be turned over in relation to the sun to give the rosette the correct shape.
- As the flowers mature, the leaves below are carefully trimmed. Bright and beautiful bouquet Framed by several rows of green leaves, it will have a compact shape and look especially attractive.
- Violets age quite quickly, the stem becomes longer, the flowers become smaller. Maximum term life - two years. Next cut leaves should be used as planting material for young violets or “rejuvenate” the plant. To do this, it is cut off at the root, a few young leaves are left and take root like a young rosette.
- To make violet flowers brighter, water it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The hassle of growing Saintpaulia is more than justified by the end result. It's hard to imagine anything more spectacular among indoor plants than pots of blooming violets. There are about thirty thousand varieties, special exhibitions are held, and there is a club for Saintpaulia lovers. Communication, exchange of experience, attempts at selection - all this unites a large group of people around a small, beautiful and delicate indoor flower - Saintpaulia Uzambara or simply violet.
There are many options for planting violet leaves. I would like to remind you once again that these are answers to frequently asked questions “How to plant a leaf”, “I’m afraid I can’t grow from a leaf...”. These notes are for those who have not yet decided to grow a violet from a leaf. This is my experience of growing violets from leaves. I came to him after countless leaves and mature plants were thrown into the trash. I hope you find it useful.
When to expect what? – we will call all dates from the date of separation of the leaf from the mother plant.
After 3 weeks - roots, after 5 - 6 weeks - children, after 12 weeks - seeding of children from the mother's leaf, after 5 months transplantation into an "adult" pot, after 6 - 9 months - flowers. These are approximate dates!
Leaf cuttings(leaf, it consists of a stalk-leg and sheet plate)) separated from the mother plant. (We break off the sheet, taking it to the side). If the sheet is damaged, a little scratched, cut - NOTHING TO TERM!!! Upper part(1/3) of the leaf blade is often cut off to speed up the appearance of babies.
Now we’ll cut the cutting, leaving 3 cm. If it accidentally breaks off and remains shorter, the leaf will also take root perfectly.
Let's prepare a slightly warm solution of potassium permanganate, light pink in color. Place the leaf completely in this solution for a few seconds.
The leaf can be rooted in water: This option is less preferable to me - cuttings often rot in water, leaves placed in water often lose turgor. In any case, flower growers very often talk about the death of leaves rooted in this way.
The second option for rooting a leaf. And this method is much better!
The leaf can also be rooted in a light mixture.
Prepare the mixture - simply and quickly:
- A glass of vermiculite
- A glass of perlite
- a glass of any nutrient soil
You can get by with just perlite and vermiculite without adding soil.
Pour this mixture warm boiled water.
Take a plastic pot with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and fill it with the prepared mixture.
We plant a leaf in the mixture, deepening the cutting by 1 cm. If it falls, you can make a support from counting sticks, plastic cocktail tubes, etc. We place it in a greenhouse, or better yet, just cover it with an individual bag.
There should be no water in the pan of the greenhouse; there is already sufficient humidity there. The mixture is completely saturated with water, now excess water needs to be poured out. No one has ever said that when rooted in this way, the leaves die. Well, what if the leaf has withered? Let's put it in wet moss, and definitely - in a greenhouse, or, more simply put, under a bag. You can cover the entire leaf with wet moss. The secret is high humidity and warmer. And of course, keep the leaves away from the windowsill! So, our leaf is sitting, and we are waiting for the roots.
The leaf does not need to be fertilized with anything. He must look for food - then he puts out roots.
The roots of the leaf appear 2–3 weeks after separation from the mother plant. Sometimes after 4 is also acceptable.
When “babies” appear at the base of the leaf (after about 5 - 6 weeks), the greenhouse can be removed - first gradually, for a few minutes a day, and when the “babies” are 2 centimeters high, remove it completely.
It really doesn't matter what kind of soil you use for violets. The main thing is any soil that says “especially for violets, completely ready for use, with the addition of perlite, moss, etc.” In fact
not ready for growing violets.
Leavening agents must be added to it. The best ones are sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Moss absorbs moisture and then gradually releases it to the roots, perlite provides “forced” air access to the roots, vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil loose. You can do without moss and vermiculite, but perlite must be present. You can get by with finely chopped foam.
Leaves and babies should be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Optimal – 24 – 26. Adult violets – at a temperature of at least + 18.
You cannot sprout leaves or “babies” on the windowsill. Leaf or baby needs minimum temperature+20 degrees. On the windowsill at night + 12 – 15. This is only permissible for adult plants (although very undesirable). Place a thermometer on the windowsill and see what the temperature is early in the morning.
So the kids have grown up
Each “baby” has 3–4 pairs of leaves; they reach a height of about 4–5 centimeters.
We seat them. We take the entire plant out of the pot, without trying to shake off the soil. Let the roots of the “babies” remain with lumps of earth on them. Carefully separate the babies from the mother's sheet and from each other. Everyone learns this process only on their own through practice.
Each baby developed a small “wound” - a place of separation from the mother’s leaf. Sprinkle this wound with crushed coal.
We place the children in pots with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The diameter of the children (opened leaves) should be equal to the diameter of the pot.
To plant children, the mixture must contain more nutritious soil.
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Two glasses of nutrient soil
Pour the mixture with warm boiled water and place it in a greenhouse for several days. The greenhouse must have holes for air. The greenhouse should not be completely sealed either for leaves or for children.
When the “kids” became “starters”
young plants ready to lay peduncles (diameter 12-15 cm, leaves with a diameter of 3 - 4 cm, about 6 - 8 leaves)
– we plant them in pots with a diameter of 6–7 cm.
At the bottom of the pot we place drainage pebbles - expanded clay (or moss, or crushed polystyrene foam) in a layer of 1 cm.
Mixture:
- Half a cup of chopped sphagnum moss
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Three glasses of nutrient soil
We don’t put these babies on the windowsill either. There are strong temperature fluctuations even in summer.
You can try placing it on the windowsill when 2-3 months have passed from the mother’s sheet after the children have been seated. It's better not on the south window. In general, there is a lot of trouble with the window sill. Certain varieties cannot stand the sun; the plants need to be shaded. During the day they can “hang” leaves. Plants are often attacked on windowsills powdery mildew – white coating on flowers and buds, rot, fungal diseases. So, it is best to grow violets on a shelf under lighting. A lamp (3 cm in diameter) 60 cm long at a distance of 25 cm from the crown of the plants illuminates a shelf 30 cm wide. In this case, two thin Chinese lamps with a power of 20 Watt (the diameter of such a lamp are 1 cm) are needed. Any lamp is suitable, it’s a matter of lighting intensity. The light should be brighter than for reading.
The violet should receive bright light for 12 to 14 hours daily. On the windowsill, in any case, it only receives enough light from March to September. In October, normal light is only from 9 am to 5 pm - that’s 8 hours, and in winter it’s even less. That's why violets bloom on the windowsill by May - two months of normal lighting have passed
(March and April). 60 days is the normal period for the formation of a peduncle and its development.
On shelves under lighting, violets bloom for 2 months, then rest for 2–3 months. There are no seasons, and leaves take root in any month.
Do not try to plant the violet in a spacious pot.
In too big pot the earth will turn sour, the violet may “disappear” into leaves, and it will not bloom well. The maximum pot for an adult violet is 9–11 cm in diameter (for large varieties– 12 – 13 cm). rule - the diameter of the socket is three times larger diameter pot.
Watering – warm water, settled, boiled, or passed through a filter. Before pouring, add a little boiling water to water at room temperature so that the water is slightly warmer than fresh milk.
Never reuse any components of soil mixtures or drainage! There are two reasons: Firstly, the soil has already given up all its nutrients. Secondly, microorganisms have already begun to multiply there. By the same principle, the same crop should not be planted in the same garden bed for two years in a row.
Good luck to you! source http://fialki-flame.ru/start_first_steps.html 
There are many options for planting violet leaves. I would like to remind you once again that these are answers to frequently asked questions “How to plant a leaf”, “I’m afraid I can’t grow from a leaf...”. These notes are for those who have not yet decided to grow a violet from a leaf. This is my experience of growing violets from leaves. I came to him after countless leaves and mature plants were thrown into the trash. I hope you find it useful.
When to expect what? – we will call all dates from the date of separation of the leaf from the mother plant.
After 3 weeks - roots, after 5 - 6 weeks - children, after 12 weeks - seeding of children from the mother's leaf, after 5 months transplantation into an "adult" pot, after 6 - 9 months - flowers. These are approximate dates!
A leaf stalk (a leaf, it consists of a stem stalk and a leaf blade)) is separated from the mother plant. (We break off the sheet, taking it to the side). If the sheet is damaged, a little scratched, cut - NOTHING TO TERM!!! The upper part (1/3) of the leaf blade is often cut off to speed up the appearance of babies.
Now we’ll cut the cutting, leaving 3 cm. If it accidentally breaks off and remains shorter, the leaf will also take root perfectly.
Let's prepare a slightly warm solution of potassium permanganate, light pink in color. Place the leaf completely in this solution for a few seconds.
The leaf can be rooted in water: This option is less preferable to me - cuttings often rot in water, leaves placed in water often lose turgor. In any case, flower growers very often talk about the death of leaves rooted in this way.
The second option for rooting a leaf. And this method is much better!
The leaf can also be rooted in a light mixture.
Prepare the mixture - simply and quickly:
- A glass of vermiculite
- A glass of perlite
- a glass of any nutritious soil
You can get by with just perlite and vermiculite without adding soil.
Pour this mixture with warm boiled water.
Take a plastic pot with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm and fill it with the prepared mixture.
We plant a leaf in the mixture, deepening the cutting by 1 cm. If it falls, you can make a support from counting sticks, plastic cocktail tubes, etc. We place it in a greenhouse, or better yet, just cover it with an individual bag.
There should be no water in the pan of the greenhouse; there is already sufficient humidity there. The mixture is completely saturated with water; now the excess water needs to be poured out. No one has ever said that when rooted in this way, the leaves die. Well, what if the leaf has withered? Let's put it in wet moss, and definitely - in a greenhouse, or, more simply put, under a bag. You can cover the entire leaf with wet moss. The secret is high humidity and warmth. And of course, keep the leaves away from the windowsill! So, our leaf is sitting, and we are waiting for the roots.
The leaf does not need to be fertilized with anything. He must look for food - then he puts out roots.
The roots of the leaf appear 2–3 weeks after separation from the mother plant. Sometimes after 4 is also acceptable.
When “babies” appear at the base of the leaf (after about 5 - 6 weeks), the greenhouse can be removed - first gradually, for a few minutes a day, and when the “babies” are 2 centimeters high, remove it completely.
It really doesn't matter what kind of soil you use for violets. The main thing is any soil that says “especially for violets, completely ready for use, with the addition of perlite, moss, etc.” In fact
not ready for growing violets.
Leavening agents must be added to it. The best ones are sphagnum moss, perlite, vermiculite. Moss absorbs moisture and then gradually releases it to the roots, perlite provides “forced” air access to the roots, vermiculite absorbs moisture and keeps the soil loose. You can do without moss and vermiculite, but perlite must be present. You can get by with finely chopped foam.
Leaves and babies should be kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees. Optimal – 24 – 26. Adult violets – at a temperature of at least + 18.
You cannot sprout leaves or “babies” on the windowsill. The leaf or baby needs a minimum temperature of +20 degrees. On the windowsill at night + 12 – 15. This is only permissible for adult plants (although very undesirable). Place a thermometer on the windowsill and see what the temperature is early in the morning.
So the kids have grown up
Each “baby” has 3–4 pairs of leaves; they reach a height of about 4–5 centimeters.
We seat them. We take the entire plant out of the pot, without trying to shake off the soil. Let the roots of the “babies” remain with lumps of earth on them. Carefully separate the babies from the mother's sheet and from each other. Everyone learns this process only on their own through practice.
Each baby developed a small “wound” - a place of separation from the mother’s leaf. Sprinkle this wound with crushed coal.
We place the children in pots with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The diameter of the children (opened leaves) should be equal to the diameter of the pot.
To plant children, the mixture must contain more nutritious soil.
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Two glasses of nutrient soil
Pour the mixture with warm boiled water and place it in a greenhouse for several days. The greenhouse must have holes for air. The greenhouse should not be completely sealed either for leaves or for children.
When the “kids” became “starters”
young plants ready to lay peduncles (diameter 12-15 cm, leaves with a diameter of 3 - 4 cm, about 6 - 8 leaves)
– we plant them in pots with a diameter of 6–7 cm.
At the bottom of the pot we place drainage pebbles - expanded clay (or moss, or crushed polystyrene foam) in a layer of 1 cm.
Mixture:
- Half a cup of chopped sphagnum moss
- Half a glass of perlite
- Half a glass of vermiculite
- Three glasses of nutrient soil
We don’t put these babies on the windowsill either. There are strong temperature fluctuations even in summer.
You can try placing it on the windowsill when 2-3 months have passed from the mother’s sheet after the children have been seated. It's better not on the south window. In general, there is a lot of trouble with the window sill. Certain varieties cannot stand the sun; the plants need to be shaded. During the day they can “hang” leaves. On window sills, plants are often attacked by powdery mildew - a white coating on flowers and buds, rot, and fungal diseases. So, it is best to grow violets on a shelf under lighting. A lamp (3 cm in diameter) 60 cm long at a distance of 25 cm from the crown of the plants illuminates a shelf 30 cm wide. In this case, two thin Chinese lamps with a power of 20 Watt (the diameter of such a lamp are 1 cm) are needed. Any lamp is suitable, it’s a matter of lighting intensity. The light should be brighter than for reading.
The violet should receive bright light for 12 to 14 hours daily. On the windowsill, in any case, it only receives enough light from March to September. In October, normal light is only from 9 am to 5 pm - that’s 8 hours, and in winter it’s even less. That's why violets bloom on the windowsill by May - two months of normal lighting have passed
(March and April). 60 days is the normal period for the formation of a peduncle and its development.
On shelves under lighting, violets bloom for 2 months, then rest for 2–3 months. There are no seasons, and leaves take root in any month.
Do not try to plant the violet in a spacious pot.
In a pot that is too large, the soil will turn sour, the violet may “disappear” into leaves, and it will not bloom well. The maximum pot for an adult violet is 9 – 11 cm in diameter (for large varieties – 12 – 13 cm). The rule is that the diameter of the rosette is three times the diameter of the pot.
Watering - with warm water, settled, boiled, or passed through a filter. Before pouring, add a little boiling water to water at room temperature so that the water is slightly warmer than fresh milk.
Never reuse any components of soil mixtures or drainage! There are two reasons: Firstly, the soil has already given up all its nutrients. Secondly, microorganisms have already begun to multiply there. By the same principle, the same crop should not be planted in the same garden bed for two years in a row.
Good luck to you! source http://fialki-flame.ru/start_first_steps.html
Violets can also grow in ordinary soil on a windowsill. But in order for them to bloom magnificently, so that all their beauty is fully revealed, they need to be provided with comfort. There are special materials and devices for this.
Not easy, but very interesting. In addition, the leaf gives birth to several new plants at once. Having failed with the first leaf, many decide that growing a violet is difficult and is not for them. However, keep in mind that each leaf “wants to live” and dies only if it falls into unfavorable environment. Therefore, to propagate violets from leaf cuttings, you need to know what conditions they require.
Traditionally, the leaf is first placed in water to allow roots to appear. But if you create good conditions, you can immediately place it in the ground. First of all, the soil must be very light. It is made up of equal volumes peat, perlite And vermiculite. Perlite and vermiculite are porous, very light materials obtained by swelling of natural minerals under the influence of high temperature. The soil with such materials contains a lot of air, which is so necessary for plant roots, and retains moisture well.
Rooting requires high humidity air. In winter, in an apartment with the heating running, the air humidity is like in the Sahara Desert -25%. And the cutting needs 70%. This level of humidity can be achieved by using transparent plastic greenhouse- small, for one leaf, or 30 at once.
To strengthen the cuttings, a temperature of 24-25 ° C is required, while for an adult violet optimal temperature 20-23 °C. In winter, it is advisable to keep a thermometer on the windowsill. At temperatures below 15 °C the leaf will not take root.
The cutting needs good lighting(but without direct sunlight) and the length of the day is 10-12 hours. In winter, when the sky is constantly overcast and the day lasts 7 hours, there will not be enough light. To keep the cuttings warm and light, you can make a shelf for them and hang it anywhere in the apartment with lighting fluorescent lamp . Adult violets will also bloom beautifully on the shelf.
When a leaf is planted directly into the ground, the petiole is cut at a distance of 3 cm from leaf blade, with a sharp blade at an angle of 45°C. For planting, you need a pot with a diameter of 5-5.5 cm or a disposable cup with a volume of 80 ml (with holes in the bottom). The container is filled with a light pound to 2/3 of the volume. The leaf cuttings are placed in the ground, watered and placed in a greenhouse. It is good to place moss on top of the soil and at the bottom of the greenhouse. sphagnum, which retains moisture and has a beneficial effect on violets.
IN lately appeared on sale peat tablets , which make it possible to speed up the production of babies from leaves. Soak the tablet in water and place it in a disposable cup; it will greatly increase in volume. After that, use a pencil to make a hole in the top of it, into which place the leaf petiole. Place the tablet with the leaf in the greenhouse, and the greenhouse on a shelf with lighting. In a couple of months, babies will appear on the cuttings. When they grow up, they are separated and planted in pots. At first, it is also advisable to keep the babies in a greenhouse so that they take root better. As the plants grow, they are transplanted into pots larger size. A young violet will bloom for the first time 7-9 months after planting the leaf.
Poets of antiquity compared the delicate leaves and trembling inflorescences of violets with young nymphs fluttering like moths. This plant is truly very beautiful, it has velvety leaves, and the various shades of flowers have won the hearts of many people around the world. That is why many people love and breed these strange and slightly extraterrestrial flowers on their windowsills, and breeders work tirelessly to ensure that the variety of varieties and species becomes even more extensive.
However, you don’t have to buy half a store to grow violets on your own windowsill; they propagate quite easily with the help of leaves, so with some diligence and desire, it is quite possible in a short time to fill your windowsill with pots of these amazing and fantastic flowers. So how to properly grow a violet from a leaf, what actions need to be taken, and what common mistakes should you beware of? This will be discussed in our article.
Correct planting material: how to grow a flower from a violet leaf
Many people want to grow violets on their windowsill because of their attractive appearance and abundant magnificent flowering, which is so pleasing to the eye of any gardener. However, many people think that this plant is overly capricious, so not everyone will be able to grow and care for it so that it remains healthy. In fact, the violet is quite unpretentious, it does not like excessive watering and frequent movements, but otherwise it does not need much, and it reproduces plants quickly and easily, so it will not be difficult to cope if desired.
You need to know that growing violets from leaves is a long and painstaking process that will only be successful if the planting material is selected correctly. Ninety percent of success depends on this, according to experienced breeders. If the leaf is weak or, even more so, sick, then the plant will grow stunted and frail, if it grows at all.
Flower growers often give special recommendations for growing violets from leaves, and by following them you can really simplify your work significantly, and also get an excellent result in the form of a lush, healthy plant. It makes sense for us to listen to what experienced people say about planting material:
- For planting violets, it is best not to choose the most low leaves plants, just those that are closest to the ground. The fact is that it is there that they may turn out to be weak and unhealthy, or be affected by pests or diseases. Bacteria and fungi are what threaten violets, and they begin their dirty deeds from the bottom, from the lowest tiers of the plant.
- It is advisable to take the second or third leaf, which will already be stronger and also protected from pests, mold and fungi by the first tiers. They are usually well formed and have pronounced turgor.
- It is best to use healthy ones for propagation, without cracks, scratches, drying out or burn spots.
- If you are trying to plant variegated violets with leaves, then select only those leaves that have calm, maximum green shades, without spots.
- If you did not pick the leaves for planting personally, but they were sent to you by mail, or they simply waited a long time in the wings, then before planting they need to be brought to life, that is, simply put in warm water, with potassium permanganate previously diluted in it. You need to make sure that the water is boiled and the solution of potassium permanganate is very weak, literally a few crystals.
It is worth understanding that when the leaf regains its strength, it will take time, at least a couple of hours, after which the planting material must be pulled out and the stalk carefully cut with sharp scissors three to four centimeters from the leaf plate.
Two ways to grow a violet from a leaf: water and soil
So, we will assume that in the source we have fresh and living planting material, and all that remains is to figure out how to grow violets at home so that the plant is strong and healthy and regularly pleasing to the eye vigorous flowering. There are two main methods for propagating violets with leaves, which we will talk about, but first you need to break off the leaf, carefully bending it away from the stem “against the grain.” This way it will break off quickly and the plant will not be damaged. It is desirable that the “tail” of the leaf be at least four centimeters, but this is not a critical indicator at all; if it turns out to be smaller, then the plant still has every chance of taking root and growing.
But planting material is not all, since you will also need a container to grow a new plant, as well as the contents for this container, soil or water:
- The easiest way is to specially pre-boil the water, since violets are afraid of bacteria and pests, as well as to stand for several days.
- With soil, everything is more complicated, since making it yourself is quite simple, but you need special knowledge. The easiest way is to just buy special soil in the store and not fool yourself, especially if you live in a city apartment.
- As temporary potty Ordinary plastic cups, which are sold on every corner for pennies, will also work. They will also have to be prepared, for example, washed with a solution of the same potassium permanganate.
If it is possible to use glass cups for seedlings, then it is best to take a dark color, and also pre-sterilize them with boiling water and steam, for example, in a water bath. This will prevent the appearance of ubiquitous green algae on the walls, which will pollute and spoil the water, and subsequently all your planting material.
Aqua vitae: how to grow a violet from a leaf in a glass of water
First of all, you need to consider classic method cuttings by leaves, that is, growing in water. That's enough long-term method, requiring attention and patience, but plants respond well to it and willingly reciprocate your concerns. When rooting in water, you need to use only transparent dishes in order to immediately notice signs of rotting, otherwise the plant may die without even curling.
- If you have large leaves, which do not fall into the glass, then you don’t have to do anything, just immerse them in water about two to three centimeters of the cutting.
- When the leaves are smaller, this will not work, as they can simply dive and rot. Then you can cut a circle from plain paper or loose cardboard, make a slot in it for the handle, insert a sheet there and then install it all on the glass so that the leg fits into the input as it should.
- You need to throw one tablet of regular activated carbon into the glass, this will help it stay clean and will not harm the violet itself.
- When the water evaporates, it will need to be added, so you should prepare it in advance as described above.
Eat various varieties violets, and the period during which roots will appear on your cutting will depend on them. When figuring out how to grow a violet from a leaf, you need to understand that you will have to wait from two to four weeks before the roots appear, but it will undoubtedly be worth it. If you suddenly find traces of mold or rot on the cutting, you should immediately remove it from the water, dry it, cut off the affected areas, and then place it in a new glass with fresh water. However, most often, if you threw straight into the water activated carbon, then there shouldn't be a problem.
Rooting violets with leaves: from water to soil
Replant violets when active growth The root system needs to be very careful, and the vessel needs to be chosen carefully. Please note that it is better to grow the “young growth” in cups, and only then plant them in ceramic pots, since violet does not really like plastic, and who would like it anyway. You can make a container for the intermediate process in the ground without difficulty or expense, you only need two plastic glasses different sizes, drainage, and soil.
A smaller glass needs to be perforated in five to seven places on the bottom using a nail or soldering iron heated on gas, and some even get by with ordinary matches, and then inserted into the larger one. One third of the container must be filled with drainage. It’s better to use something small, some even recommend simply crumbling a piece of polystyrene foam, and this has a rational grain, and then filling it to the top with soil.
You don’t need to plant the cutting very deeply, making a hole with a stick or just your finger. If it is too deep, then fresh shoots may not break through, and then the plant will die. Gently press and compact the soil around the leaf, water it with a small amount of water, and leave the plant to rest from the stress it has suffered. The glass should be covered with an ordinary household plastic bag, creating a kind of greenhouse. The violet should be left like this until tiny children appear around the leaves, which means that the plant has taken root.
How to grow a violet from a leaf: video of planting directly into the ground
Not everyone is ready to tinker with cuttings and water, especially since experienced gardeners have their own opinion about how to root a violet leaf without unnecessary hassle, running around with glasses and subsequent transfers two or even three times. Among other things, even plant breeders agree that plants planted directly into the soil grow stronger, stronger, healthier and more resilient. They produce more children, which can then also be used for further breeding, and this is an important factor.
Remember
For violets, you need to purchase special soil, since they do not really like soil from the garden, which can contain pathogenic bacteria, fungi and mold, which will negate all your efforts. Therefore, it is better to pay, but get an excellent result, especially since the cost of such soil is not at all high.
- Even a special soil for rooting violets must be mixed with a baking powder, which can be crushed polystyrene foam, perlite, sphagnum moss or vermiculite. Moreover, it happens that no more than one third of the soil needs to be added if vermiculite and perlite are mixed in equal proportions, which will provide the leaf with everything it needs, that is, nutrition, moisture and air.
- The stem of a leaf that has just been broken off from the stem must be cut at an angle of forty-five degrees, dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried for half an hour.
- The mixed soil needs to be slightly moistened and filled with pre-prepared cups, as for rooting in the previous method.
- Make a small hole with your finger or a stick and insert a leaf around which the soil needs to be slightly compacted. There is no need to water it yet, since you have already moistened the soil before filling the container.
- Next, as if by practice, you need to carefully place the bag on the glass with the handle, creating your own microclimate.
In order to protect the plant from mold, and contrary to misconceptions, its spores are present everywhere and always, it is worth regularly ventilating your mini-greenhouse. If the leaf wilts a little, you should not immediately sound the alarm; once it has taken root, it will regain fresh color and elasticity of a healthy plant. Growing violets from leaves using this method involves watering only once a week; more often this is not necessary, the roots and stem may rot, and then the plant will die.
Separating and seating children: how to grow a flower from a violet leaf
The main thing is that the plants, as they say, take root, that is, take root, but the process of planting violets through leaves does not end there, since after strong rosettes appear on the surface, ready for reproduction, the plant needs to be planted in pots, where they will be continue to grow for you.
- You need to divide the children, as young shoots are called, so that at least a couple of leaves remain on them. Do not forget that children without roots are not suitable for this; they will have to be grown in the same way as just a leaf broken off from the stem.
- Before dividing, you need to water the soil well enough, and leave a lump of earth between the roots so that this is a less traumatic “operation” for the violet.
- Plant your babies in pots, water lightly without overwatering, and place them in a place where there are definitely no drafts. delicate flowers They don’t like that at all.
Thus, we can say with confidence that there is nothing difficult at all in growing violets from leaves, and if everything is done properly and slowly, strictly following the instructions, then no problems should arise. For those who don’t quite understand something, there is a special video on how to grow a violet from a leaf, which will definitely dispel fears and also clarify all the subtleties and nuances.