How to prune gooseberries and currants in autumn

Properly formed currant, gooseberry and honeysuckle bushes give best harvest, and they look nicer.

Putting berry bushes in order is within the capabilities of any sane person. Don't believe me? You continue to avoid this work under various pretexts!

Let's figure it out

Time: autumn after leaf fall (October-November).

Objects: adult plants (over 4-5 years old) of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle.

Action: trim ( sanitary and formative)

	classic professional type garden pruner
	pruning shears with long handles
	garden var
	thick gloves

Why (and is it possible) to prune shrubs in the fall?

It has always been a mystery to me: why autumn pruning Are berry bushes viewed with caution by gardening enthusiasts? After all, such a deadline has extremely clear and specific justifications:

• Plants tolerate surgical interventions more easily when they are in a state of rest or preparation for it.
• For acceptance right decisions The pruner should clearly see the “skeleton” of the entire plant, not masked by foliage.

Wounds make a tree or shrub vulnerable to frost, so autumn term pruning is only suitable for winter-hardy and low shrubs. Currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle are winter-hardy and compact (unlike apple trees), and have the opportunity to spend the frostiest months under a snow “blanket”. They would even endure winter pruning, but at this time of year it is impossible to approach them - either mud, or ice, or a snowdrift. You can wait until spring, but these crops are coming out of " hibernation"very early. As soon as the opportunity arises to get close to them, the buds have already blossomed! In the fall, after the leaves have fallen, it is convenient to choose a suitable dry day and take your time to do everything necessary.

What if you prune in the summer?

Some lovers combine blackcurrant pruning with harvesting. The persistence of this very strange practice can only be explained by the stoic attitude of black currants to such barbarism. The biggest disadvantage summer pruning is that in the leafy state the skeleton of the bush is not visible: it costs nothing to tear down something good, but, on the contrary, to leave something bad in place.

Getting rid of unnecessary branches

It's amazing how this simple procedure can scare people. It seems to me that gardeners unwittingly animate plants and do not want to be “executioners”. But the bush does not at all resemble an animal or a person, and its branches are by no means parts of the body. Rather, the plant is a factory, and its branches are workshops.

Closing ineffective divisions and directing resources to successful and new ones is normal practice! Not only a professional can recognize the “extra” – it simply catches the eye. The main thing is to focus not on the tops of the branches, but on the part of the bush that grows from the ground.

Then you will immediately see one, three or five thick, old branches (often with diseased bark). Inspect them and, making sure that they are crowned with short and worthless growth, mark them for removal.

In addition to these, you will probably find one or two broken or dried branches, as well as several twigs almost as thick as a match at the base of the bush. Your task is to get rid of this ballast.

It often happens that gardeners, without understanding what's what, trim a bush like a sheep. Or even worse - they cut out all the annual growth.

In the first case, they achieve a decrease in fruiting and a catastrophic thickening of the bush in the next season, in the second, they completely destroy next year’s harvest with their own hands.

1. Blackcurrant bush before and after pruning. 2. A neglected blackcurrant bush before and after pruning (1 and 2). 2a. Rejuvenation of a separate branch.

Procedure for pruning gooseberries and currants

First, using a sharp pruner with long handles remove old thick “stems”. What is needed here is not so much strength as skill - if you don’t have it, you can use a garden saw (only then lightly smooth the cuts with a sharp knife). Currants and gooseberries cannot have stumps, so you will often have to work at soil level, almost laying the tool flat on it.

Many novice pruners have the false idea that cutting off a branch, leaving a “stub,” is much easier than removing it entirely.

In fact, what is there, you will have to do the same movements here. The only difference is the result: very often, in a matter of weeks, stumps turn into nightmarish breeding grounds for diseases and pests. Sometimes it happens that removing all the old branches threatens to make the bush “bald”.

In this case, those trunks where the bark is below better condition, it is better not to remove radically “to the ring”, but to prune “to transfer” to a strong branch. Then take regular pruning shears and cut off all the damaged, weak, medium and thin branches. At the end of the work, cover cuts with a diameter of more than 1 cm with garden varnish. It is better to burn the cut branches.

1. Scheme for pruning red and white currant bushes. 2. Scheme for annual pruning of gooseberry bushes

Individual approach

Some berry crops produce crops only on one-year-old branches, others - on older ones. They have different ability form renewal shoots (those that grow from the ground). They also age at different rates.

Therefore pruning different cultures differs only in two points: which branches are designated as old and how exactly they combat thickening.

Black currants are rapidly growing and aging. All branches older than five years must be removed. There can be many renewal shoots - 3-4 are left.

Branches of red currants and gooseberries older than five to six years are pruned. Bushes do not thicken very quickly, so they are often not cut off entirely, but transferred to a strong lateral branch.

Honeysuckle branches must be removed when they stop growing - from about 7-8 years and older. Unlike currants and gooseberries, honeysuckle does not regenerate well from the roots. Therefore, an exception is made for it and when removing old branches, stumps about 5 cm long are left. The bushes need thinning.

Viburnum is prone to thickening, so the main purpose of pruning it is to create a ventilated bush - remove the branches that create a “thicket” (those that are weaker and worse).

1a.1b. Pruning a neglected gooseberry bush (before and after pruning).2.a.2b. Rules for cutting currant branches “into a ring” (a – incorrect, b – correct). 3a.3b. Trimming for translation" (a – incorrect, b – correct)

When pruning, remove all unnecessary and disturbing things:

• Old branches that have practically lost the ability to produce a normal harvest.
• Diseased, broken, damaged or clearly poorly placed branches.
• Thin, frail, weak branches if they thicken the bush.
• “Excessive” branches (those that are worse, weaker or poorly located are selected). For example, for currants and gooseberries, it is recommended to leave no more than 4-5 new branches that have emerged from the ground in the bush. The rest are cut out.

Note: caring for gooseberries and currants in autumn

Autumn care for berry bushes includes three activities:

1. Feeding.

2. Soil cultivation.

3. Carrying out pruning.

4. Abundant watering.

Top dressing

At the end of summer, all berry bushes stop growing, devoting their energy to ripening the crop and, as a result, becoming weakened, but winter is just around the corner. It is for this reason that plants really need additional fertilizer.

Humus, compost or rotted manure can be used as organic fertilizer. Application rate per bush:

• currants (red and black), gooseberries - 15-20 kg,
• raspberries, blackberries - 6-8 kg

In addition, berry bushes also need mineral supplements, in particular potassium and phosphorus. Application rate per bush:

• currants (red, black gooseberries - on clay soils: 200 grams of superphosphate and 40 grams of potassium sulfate; on sandstones - 200 and 60 grams, respectively;

• raspberries, blackberries - on clay soils: 80 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium sulfate; on sandstones - 80 and 20 grams, respectively;

Tillage

Digging the soil under berry bushes in autumn must be done carefully so as not to damage root system plants. Digging depth:

• in the aisles - on the bayonet of a shovel,
• in rows between plants - up to 10 cm,
• under bushes no more than 5 cm

In addition to digging up the soil, currant and gooseberry bushes can be lightly hilled. You can also mulch the soil under them, for example, with peat or fallen leaves (not fruit crops).

Abundant watering

In order for plants to stock up on moisture for the winter, they need to be “watered” to their fill. In this case, the main “water bread” is black currant - it needs up to 30 liters of water per bush. The rest are less demanding - up to 20 liters per plant is enough for them.

Carrying out pruning

This operation is very important for shrubs, because in the fall they will begin to grow additional green mass, as a result of which the crown will thicken and, as a result, the plants will bear fruit poorly and become more vulnerable to pests and diseases, as a result of which they may even die.

Black and red currants, gooseberries: it is advisable to prune after harvesting, removing all weak and diseased branches, as well as shoots that are more than five years old. In this case, it is advisable to pinch the tops (except for red currants).

Raspberries and blackberries must first be removed from the fruit-bearing shoots, which must be cut out close to the ground. After this, in order to accelerate the growth and maturation of the side shoots, the length of which has reached 0.5 m, it is necessary to pinch the latter.

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For the winter, currant and gooseberry bushes are tied with twine, and in places where a thick layer of snow accumulates, the plants are fenced with an umbrella made of strong stakes.

In winter, the bushes are covered with snow. In the spring, the plants are freed from the snow crust, and with the onset of warmer days, the binding is removed.

As soon as young currant and gooseberry bushes begin to grow, a shallow groove is dug around each of them (at a distance of 35-45 cm from the base of the bush), into which an aqueous solution of slurry, mullein or nitrogen fertilizers(15-20 g of urea or ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water), then water. After 4-5 hours, the grooves are leveled and the soil is mulched with manure.

Spring care for currants and gooseberries

Fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bushes also require careful care. Early in spring, as soon as the snow melts, at a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius, fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bushes in the country are sprayed with nitrafen. When growing black currants, it is very important to constantly select the most productive, healthy bushes and mercilessly uproot diseased, low-yielding plants. In the spring, when the buds open and the first rudiments of leaves appear, the bushes are inspected. If the branches have excessively swollen, swollen, cabbage-shaped buds (they contain mites), then they are plucked out, collected in a bucket and poured with boiling water. If there are a lot of such buds, then the bush is heavily infested with mites and is immediately uprooted. Before flowering, currant and gooseberry bushes are sprayed with karbofos.

During the mass flowering of currants, the flowers are carefully inspected and the plants are found to be infested with terry.

In diseased bushes, the flowers are deformed and have terry look, bluish color, almost no berries set (fall off). Such bushes are also uprooted. Before the first berry picking, the bushes are inspected and low-yielding, diseased bushes are discarded.

In spring and the first half of summer, shrubs respond well to the application of slurry, aqueous solution mullein, bird droppings and for mulching the soil with manure and compost. When caring for gooseberries, take into account that they respond positively to the application of potassium fertilizers and rotted manure, but do not tolerate the use of preparations containing sulfur. Currant and gooseberry bushes are sprayed 2-3 times (with an interval of 7-8 days) against powdery mildew with a solution of soda ash and laundry soap(50 g of soda and 50 g of soap per 10 liters of water). Spraying begins at the beginning of the appearance of powdery plaque on leaves, shoots, and berries.

Watering care for currants and gooseberries

It is necessary to water at least 3-4 times during the summer.

Shrubs are especially demanding when it comes to watering active growth shoots, during the period of increased berry mass growth and after harvesting.

Usually, even before the onset of mass ripening of the berries, a few of them become black. Before others, berries damaged by the moth turn black and become entangled in cobwebs (they contain greenish caterpillars). These berries are collected in a bucket and poured with boiling water. The branches of currants and gooseberries gradually bend down due to the weight of the berries and fall into shade, which negatively affects the quality of the product. To prevent this, props are installed under the heavy branches. Currant berries are removed in 2-3 doses as they ripen. Gooseberries are harvested for making jam in an unripe, still hard state, and for consumption in fresh- ripe berries. Do not allow them to overripe, crack and fall off.

Caring for currants and gooseberries after harvesting the berries

Immediately after harvesting, currant bushes are pruned:

• Remove broken, blackened stems (4-5 years old), drooping and thickening branches.
• Every year, 3-4 young, strong shoots growing at the base of the bush are left to renew the crown.
• In each bush, 15-20 branches of different ages are left.
• Fruiting gooseberry bushes are pruned in the spring, as some branches may freeze over the winter.
• When pruning, branches older than 7-8 years, diseased, twisted stems, as well as thickening thin shoots that appear at the base of the bush are removed.
• At the same time, strong, long annual growth is carefully preserved.

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers and manure are applied to the bushes after harvesting (before digging the soil). Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in two stages: immediately after picking the berries (before watering) and early in the spring (before the first loosening of the soil). Currant bushes are used for 10-12 years, gooseberry bushes for 14-16 years and are uprooted. By this time, a new plantation is being established in another area.

​Similar articles​

​member of ANIIR,​

When and how to plant?

​. Kidney mite overwinters and reproduces in currant buds. Infected buds are larger in size. IN spring period When the buds open, the infected ones dry out, after which the mite moves to neighboring buds. If the mite spread is small, the damaged buds are torn off and burned. If it is stronger, spray with 1% colloidal sulfur after flowering. Damage to plants by glassware leads to drying out of the shoots. When damaged shoots are cut, a black hole is observed in the center. The pest overwinters in shoots, and therefore control measures include pruning and burning damaged branches.​

Agrotechnical measures for caring for currants and gooseberries include loosening and watering the tree trunks. To preserve moisture, it is possible to mulch tree trunk circles with sawdust. Currants, like many berry bushes, bear fruit on the previous year's growth. To increase the shoot-forming ability, nitrogen fertilizers are applied in early spring: urea or ammonium nitrate, 10-20 g per bush. After applying fertilizers, they are immediately sealed. Up to 80 g of superphosphate and 5 kg of organic fertilizers are applied to fruit-bearing plants in the fall.​

​Currant and gooseberry seedlings are in short supply and are sold at very low prices. For example, here in Michurinsk, the price of two-year-old seedlings of these crops fluctuates around 60 rubles. It is worth considering that varietal purity and freedom from diseases and pests can only be guaranteed by scientific institutions and specialized nurseries. In this regard, purchasing seedlings at garden markets, you should first carefully study the description of the varieties you need. The Internet and pomological reference books on crops can help with this, which indicate the color, size, growth vigor, curvature, cover of shoots with thorns, which distinguish currant and gooseberry seedlings, and only then buy them. Standard seedlings of these crops have a height of 50-70 cm, 2-3 branches, and a well-developed root system.​

​Division. Perfect for moving the entire bush to a new place, since its essence is as follows: the bush is dug up, cut with an ax into 5-10 parts with a piece of the root system and planted individual plants to a new place. Rooting is excellent, they bear fruit in the second year.​

Fertilizer is necessary, since such a volume of greenery requires a lot of organic matter; without it, the hybrid will grow very slowly and will begin to bear fruit only in the second or third year, which will not satisfy the requirements of many gardeners. In order for the berries to be large, you need a lot of potassium and phosphorus; without them it will be very difficult to get a good harvest. To saturate the soil with these components, it is necessary to add superphosphates, ammonium nitrate, ammophos, and potassium nitrate. Before planting, add 2 kg of humus and 200 grams of chicken manure to the hole so that the soil is well saturated with nitrogen - the main stimulator of vegetative mass growth for the next 2-3 months of plant growth.​

​You can harvest 200 centners of berries from one hectare, which is practically a record​

​. Most popular variety yoshty, which almost every summer resident knows. It was originally bred in England, but after some time it already appeared on the shelves of Russia, as well as in all breeding areas. Since 1990, it has been grown at the Krasnodar station, where it is constantly improved and crossed with other plants to obtain maximum results. Bush

​You should remember that gooseberries are heat-loving shrubs. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you need to make sure that the area is level, illuminated and windless. Groundwater should not be closer than 1.5 meters to the surface of the earth. If the soil under the gooseberry is constantly wet and swampy, then the plant will die after some time.

Since gooseberry buds bloom very early, the planting procedure must be completed before the beginning of April. But you should remember that the survival rate of the plant after spring planting is much worse.​

​Many summer residents grow gooseberries on their own in their garden plots. But those who decided to do this for the first time are interested in the question: how, where and when is it better to plant gooseberries.​

Where to plant gooseberries?

​member of the All-Union Society of Genetics and Breeders​

​A gooseberry pest that often damages most of the crop is the gooseberry moth. The pest overwinters in the soil, then during the period of mass flowering, the female lays eggs in the flowers and on the ovary. After this, the caterpillars damage the fruits. Folk remedy The fight against this pest is to cover the tree trunk circles after the snow has melted with film, which prevents the butterfly from flying out. Harmful diseases of currants and gooseberries include powdery mildew, anthracnose and septoria. A distinctive feature of powdery mildew is the presence white plaque on leaves and shoot tips. Measures to prevent the occurrence of the disease include double treatment (before flowering and after harvest) with foundationazole or topaz.​

​Lack of moisture during the period of fruit formation and ripening leads to crushing and premature shedding of fruits. In this regard, during dry periods it is necessary to water 2-4 times a week.​

​Currants and gooseberries can be planted both in autumn and spring, but early spring planting reduces survival rate by 10-15%. When planting in autumn, it should be taken into account that seedlings should be planted no later than 1-2 weeks before the onset of stable frosts.​

Cuttings after pruning. Very poor rooting, but has its advantages: you don't throw away things from the garden that would otherwise end up in the trash. Even if the rooting is only 20%, this is very good.​

​You definitely need to plant a shrub near ordinary gooseberries, currants or other “brothers”​

Video instructions on how to plant gooseberries correctly

glav-dacha.ru

Which hybrid of currants and gooseberries is best to plant in the country and how to care for it?

The most popular varieties of this plant and detailed descriptions

​among the berries domestic selection. The plant is large, reaching 2 meters in diameter and almost one and a half meters in height. Spreading, very dense, forms a lot of shoots, which it is advisable to remove so that the berries are even larger (the average weight of one is 5 grams, the maximum is 12). Resistance to diseases is quite high, it is not affected by anthracosis, spotting, spider mites and other pests.​

1. ​EMB​​The area under raspberries or currants should not be used for planting gooseberries. These plants greatly deplete the soil, and, in addition, it may contain pests and diseases common to these plants.​ How to plant gooseberries in the fall? Before planting gooseberries, the shoots must be trimmed short. Weak ones are removed completely. You need to select 2-3 strong twigs and cut them so that a few buds remain (about 3-4). If the root system is too long (about 25 cm or more) and interferes with planting, then it can also be trimmed a little. The need for pruning and removing excess shoots is to ensure good nutrition for the plant in the spring. If you leave a lot of long twigs, they will begin to develop very strongly and quickly in the spring, and the root system, weakened during transplantation, will not be able to provide adequate nutrition for good growth bush.​​Gooseberry is not picky plants, it doesn't require special care, bears fruit well. But when growing it, to obtain large fragrant berries, you still need to follow some rules. If you choose the right place for planting and give the plant everything it needs, then a gooseberry bush can successfully bear fruit for up to 50 years, and, at the same time, produce up to 10 kg of harvest.​
2. ​What does two months have to do with it? Dal roots, cm5, plant in the ground. If possible, cover with a jar, for 2-3 weeks.​ Anthracnose manifests itself by falling leaves in the second half of summer. The causative agent of the disease overwinters in fallen damaged leaves, and therefore, after they fall, the leaves are immediately burned. It is also possible to treat with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture before flowering and after harvesting the fruits. Appearance on leaves gray spots due to the presence of septoria. Control measures for the disease are similar to anthracnose. Currently, breeders have created new highly productive varieties of currants and gooseberries that are immune to diseases and pests. This should be taken into account when purchasing planting material. Thus, by observing agrotechnical measures for planting, care, disease and pest control, you can obtain high and stable yields currants and gooseberries and use the fruits for food in fresh and processed form all year round.​
3. ​Pruning is one of the agrotechnical measures that helps increase yields and prevent the development of diseases and pests. The first stage of currant pruning begins immediately after planting, when the upper part shoots. In this case, 3-4 buds are left above the soil level. This pruning stimulates shoot growth and rapid harvest growth. Formative pruning begins in the fifth year of plant life. On fruiting plants it should be left 8-12 skeletal branches, and if this norm is exceeded, older branches are cut out. On plants older than eight years old, there are old branches whose growth is very weak. The presence of these branches leads to a sharp decrease in yield, and therefore they should be removed. Also, on plants of different ages, dry and damaged branches should be removed. Optimal time Pruning berry bushes is early spring, before the buds begin to bloom. If spring pruning It didn’t work out, we can do it in the fall.​ Slightly acidic soils with a high humus content are suitable for planting currants and gooseberries. Lowlands and depressions should not be used, as severe waterlogging causes plant death. Depth groundwater in areas should not exceed one meter.​ ​All these methods are effective and efficient. You just have to choose the most suitable method for yourself or use several at once, for example, cuttings in spring and autumn immediately after pruning.​​. Cross pollination will maximize the percentage of fruit produced. This is especially true for varieties, since hybrids pollinate well on their own.​
4. ​Rext​​can reach 200 centimeters in diameter, 160 in height, no garter is required, the branches are strong, do not break, gusts of wind are not at all scary. The leaves are large, like black currants, the berries weigh on average 5 grams, very large. Some “instances” reach 12 grams. It begins to bloom in early April, so it is recommended to cover the branches in case of slight frosts at this time, since at +1 degree the color already falls off. Generally not affected by brown spot, powdery mildew. Spider mite does not touch leaves, rust does not form. Disadvantage: the fruits are a little sour.

​You need to pay attention to the fact that after a few years the gooseberry bushes grow very large. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain distance when boarding. Often the best option there is a distance between gooseberry bushes of 1 and 2 meters (provided that the bushes are planted in rows).​

How to plant yoshta - a practical guide

Thus, the leaves and flowers will be weak and may dry out, as a result of which the growth and fruiting of the gooseberry will be dulled.

​To plant gooseberries, it is best to purchase two-year-old bushes or strong two-year-old layering. When purchasing planting material special attention you need to pay attention to the roots, they should not be shorter than 20 cm. It is mandatory to have 2-3 strong shoots at least 30 cm in length, with several buds.​

​When the roots come out, but first the sprouts come out, you can plant them with a stump or carefully break off the sprout, put them in water, they will sprout roots and then plant them in the ground.

​Dmitry Bryksin,​​One of the factors influencing the decrease in plant productivity and the deterioration of their general condition is the presence of pests and diseases. The main pests of currants are

Reproduction and transplantation

Black soils are most suitable for currants and gooseberries, but before planting seedlings, the area should be rid of weeds using herbicides. It is important to consider the duration of action of herbicides, which also affects the viability of seedlings.​

1. ​No special care is required; yoshta grows in almost any conditions. It is advisable to supply it with everyone necessary fertilizers, do periodic foliar feeding so that it develops as best as possible and does not inhibit growth. Use urea, as well as diluted mullein or bird feces 1:40 - this best source ammonia.​
2. ​Not everyone is able to immediately transplant a successful plant seedling, since each variety has its own characteristics vegetative propagation. Let's look at 5 main ways to get a new bush at home.​
3. ​. It has an original appearance: the berries have a slightly reddish tint and have a pattern characteristic of gooseberries, while shimmering with an amber color. Many gardeners use such plants as decorative decoration yard, although these berries are very productive, they can please not only appearance. The bush is relatively small, up to 150 centimeters in diameter, spreading, the height rarely exceeds 120 centimeters. It grows mainly in the shade; in the heat, the leaves can burn a little, so you need to monitor their condition and, if necessary, hang a “shade”. On average, the berries are 19 mm in size and weigh about 5 grams, but sometimes you come across specimens even weighing up to 9 g, which is a lot for such a berry. Taste qualities excellent, considered one of the best varieties yoshty.​
4. ​Crown.​
5. ​Often if personal plots small, the owners cannot determine where to plant gooseberries. In this case, it can be placed along the fence. But you need to remember that bushes are planted no closer than 1.5-2 meters before the fence. The plant will feel good between small fruit trees, but distance is also important here (1-1.5 m).​

​The soil for planting shrubs must be dug up in early September, all lumps crushed and weeds removed. Next, holes are dug, the size of which should correspond to the root system. Often their depth is approximately 35-40 cm, and their diameter is about 50 cm. When digging a hole, the top layer of soil, which is rich in useful substances, is separated from the lean soil, located a little deeper.​

Caring for seedlings for next year

Gooseberries can be planted both in autumn and spring. But when is it better to plant gooseberries in spring or autumn?​

​in our climatic conditions the most favorable planting time fruit trees- early spring, and berry crops- autumn.​

​research fellow​

grounde.ru

How to grow currants and gooseberries

Growing fruit bushes - currants and gooseberries

​bud mite​

​On garden plots currants and gooseberries are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. For this they prepare landing hole depth 25-40 cm, depending on the development of the root system of the seedling. It is carefully placed there, gradually covered with earth and thoroughly compacting it. Unlike gooseberries, currants are planted obliquely, at an angle of 45°, which ensures better development root system and the formation of new shoots. This planting technique helps to obtain powerful, well-branched bushes, which subsequently ensures high yields.​

Planting seedlings

​In the spring, it is necessary to fertilize at the beginning of April, so that by the end of May the stems have already grown to 60-70 centimeters. At this point, you should shorten the growing point, as when caring for remontant varieties raspberries to form additional side shoots- this is what almost all gardeners do who do not want the bushes to thicken and become a “fan.”

By layering. Similar to gooseberries, the branches of the hybrid can be buried in soil, and after 2-3 months they can be transplanted from the mother bush; they take root very well in more than 80% of cases. It is advisable to keep it in the ground for much longer, for example, 5-6 months, then you will not slow down the development of the young layer.

​If you want to plant a stably fruit-bearing hybrid of gooseberries and black currants, then seedlings should be purchased only from trusted places. Today there is large number“fakes”, unsuccessful hybrids that bear little fruit, and their daughter seedlings are completely unsuitable for cultivation. Be vigilant, check the documents of the supplier company, try not to purchase seedlings at the market to avoid clean water fraud.​

​The Swiss variety has many advantages. Firstly, gartering on a trellis is not necessary, since the stems have a diameter of up to 2 centimeters, they are strong and erect. The berries are relatively large - on average 4 grams, but there are also 6-7 grams, which is very good for such a plant. The yield is high; 5 kilograms can be harvested from one hybrid if it has enough moisture throughout the entire growing season. In a drought it will be much less harvest- requires good watering. Resistant to all diseases that are characteristic of blackcurrant and gooseberry varieties.​

Standard forms of currants and gooseberries

It is necessary to ensure that the soil around the bush is loose and free of weeds. During the fruiting period, you need to water the plant well.

​When the holes are ready, they need to be fertilized. To do this, prepare a mixture of two thirds of the top fertile soil, 10 kg of compost and 200 g. mineral fertilizer(superphosphate and potassium salt). The hole is filled halfway with the mixture, and the remaining third of the earth is poured into a mound in the middle. The holes are left in this form for several weeks, this gives the earth the opportunity to sink.

Planting care

Most gardeners claim that autumn planting gooseberries are much more effective. The best period for this it is the end of September and the first ten days of October.​

Prepare the landing site in advance, at least two to three weeks in advance. If you are going to plant several bushes, then it is better to dig a trench for them: 40 - 50 centimeters deep and the same amount wide. If the soil on the site is sour, then strawberries and raspberries can be planted painlessly, but for currants and gooseberries you need to add 300 - 400 grams of ground limestone or 250 - 300 grams of slaked lime for each square meter.​

Trimming

​Department of Berry Crops of the State Scientific Institution VNIIS named after. I.V. Michurina,​

Pests and diseases of berry bushes

​and​​For many gardeners, currants and gooseberries serve not only as a source of high-vitamin berries, but also as decoration for the garden. In this regard, they adopt the experience of foreign gardeners and plant standard forms of crops. There are two ways to obtain a standard. In the first case, varieties with an erect crown are selected, a powerful shoot is selected and it is isolated with a transparent plastic tube at a height of 60-70 cm from the soil level. Next, 4-7 branched shoots are left. The disadvantage of this method is the very strong formation of shoots, which often have to be removed. Every 2-3 months you need to add new humus under the bushes in order to constantly feed the vegetative mass with fertilizers. Spraying against pests is not required - the bushes are extremely resistant. In some areas where there are a large number of insect pests, you can treat them once with an insecticide, and only for preventive purposes. By layering, burying them to a depth of 15 centimeters, similar to currants. The advantage of this method is the opportunity to get the first harvest already in the year of planting, since the stem takes root much better than in the case of propagation by the first method. You can get the first berries only in the second year, but the bush grows to its maximum size in just 1 season. At early boarding in the spring (preferably in the fall) until the end of October, the stems will be up to 160 centimeters high, and the diameter will reach 150 cm. Then the bush begins to gradually grow to the sides and form additional shoots.​

​Yohilina​

Despite the fact that about 40 years have already passed since the first experiments in crossing black currants and gooseberries, today there are only about 1 dozen successful “results”. They have an optimal ratio of yield, taste and size of berries, and are liked by thousands of Russian gardeners. Everyone who loves exotic things tries to plant them. Now let’s take a closer look at what is relevant to grow now and what you can count on when planting the best varieties of yoshta.​

​After the time has elapsed, each seedling must be placed in a mound vertically or slightly inclined, the roots straightened and sprinkled with earth. Root collar The seedling goes deep into the ground by approximately 4-5 cm. The soil around the bush must be compacted, watered abundantly and mulched with humus. It is best to plant on a cloudy and windless day, this promotes better establishment of the plant.​ The root system of the plant has time to strengthen well and take root before the onset of cold weather, and in the spring the bush begins to develop rapidly. If we talk about spring planting, then it is very important not to be late. Planting should be done while the plant is in a state of calm. ​Bushes usually grow in one place for a long time, so you should immediately take care of their nutrition. Mix with the top layer of soil removed from the hole organic fertilizers at the rate of 8 - 10 kilograms per 1 square meter, add 100 grams of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. Mix well with the soil so as not to burn the roots. Fill the trench or hole to the top with this mixture and even a little more for shrinkage. Now, when planting, you can dig only such holes so that the roots can fit freely. Getting ready to identify a seedling on “ permanent place residence”, carefully examine its roots. Cut off rotten, soaked, diseased ones to healthy tissue, but try to remove as few roots as possible. Fill the well full of water. Plant plants directly in the “dirt”. Place the currants in the hole obliquely, and the gooseberries vertically and slightly (5 to 6 centimeters) deeper than they sat before digging. Immediately after planting, cut off all branches of currants and gooseberries, leaving no more than 2 buds on each above the surface - in next year get a small number of shoots of decent growth strength. They or some part of them will form the basis of the future bush. Do not thicken the plantings. Place currant and gooseberry bushes no closer than 1.5 meters apart. Raspberries - every 40 - 50 centimeters. After planting, trim the raspberry stems to a height of about 40 centimeters. Water the plants thoroughly and mulch the soil. By the way, this fall it is necessary to water not only young, but also mature trees and shrubs. This will significantly reduce the risk of freezing, which, judging by the forecasts for the coming winter, is quite high.​ ​candidate of agricultural sciences,​ ​glass glass ​The second method of creating standard forms, most often used in gardening practice, is grafting varietal material onto rootstocks from golden currant, which is characterized by a more weakened growth activity. Standard forms are planted according to a thicker pattern with a distance between plants of 0.5 m. Autumn planting of golden currants is possible in the future spring grafting varietal shoot. Berries on standard forms are different high quality, taste. They are very easy to assemble.​

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Dracaena - when to plant!!!

Irina Kirilova

​Currants and gooseberries began to be grown several centuries ago, not only as berries, but also as medicinal crops. Currently, these crops are cultivated not only as plants for home gardens, but also for industrial gardens. Currants occupy huge areas both in Russia and abroad (North America, England, etc.). This was achieved, first of all, by creating high-yielding varieties, adaptive to external stress, resistant to diseases and pests. The development played a special role in this processing industry, in which the fruits of currants and gooseberries occupy a certain niche.​

Lusia

​The “Chinese” method. It got its name due to its high productivity; one cutting produces up to 15 seedlings. The branch is buried in a ditch, as in the second case, but the ground level is gradually raised, following the development of buds, which will produce more side shoots. They will be weak, they will begin to bear fruit in 3-5 years, but there are a lot of them.​

Lida

In order to have a lot of berries in the first year, you need to properly develop the root system. First you need to dig a large hole for planting a seedling, approximately 50x50x50 centimeters, or more. It is imperative to make drainage, without it it will not be possible to grow a large plant, since the roots will not have enough air and will rot when frequent watering, which is simply necessary for the plant. It is recommended to immediately cut off all the vegetative mass that is above the ground, leaving 20 centimeters of the stem, especially if you plant the plant in the spring. Yoshta roots are small compared to the volume of vegetative mass, so they do not supply enough water and minerals to the plant immediately after planting. We need to let them take root and grow.​
​. One of the best varieties in the area Russian Federation. A variety of yoshta that gives excellent yields. When to plant currants in the spring How to plant currants in the spring How to plant currants and where

In order for gooseberries and currants to grow and bear fruit well, it is not enough just to add fertilizer, you also need to create certain conditions for their better absorption by plants. To do this, it is necessary that the soil contains a sufficient amount of moisture, air and heat. Therefore, the soil in currant and gooseberry plots should be kept loose and free from weeds throughout the entire growing season, especially in the first half of summer, when shoots grow intensively and the crop is formed. The soil around the bushes

currants and gooseberries are dug in the fall to a depth of 5-7 cm within a radius of 10-30 cm from the bush, 9-12 cm to the periphery; In this case, the layer is not broken, since moisture is better absorbed into the blocky soil. In the spring heavy soils the digging is repeated, but to a lesser depth, and for the lungs, loose soils Digging is replaced by loosening.

Throughout the summer, the soil near the bushes is loosened (to a depth of 4-7 cm) and weeds are removed as necessary. In the second half of summer (August), soil cultivation is temporarily stopped (until autumn) in order to allow plant tissues to mature, on which the success of overwintering depends.

An effective technique that maintains a loose, moist state of the soil and suppresses the growth of weeds is mulching the soil under the bushes. various materials(manure, humus, peat, sawdust, dry grass, film, paper, etc.). Mulching is usually carried out after the first spring loosening or digging; autumn mulching protects plant roots from freezing. It is especially important to mulch young plantings, which promotes better survival of plants, and improves growth and fruiting in fruit-bearing plants.

In young plantings of currants and gooseberries, during the first 1-2 years the free area can be used for planting vegetable crops.

Often during the growth and development of currants and gooseberries there are dry periods when it is necessary to apply watering. Lack of moisture leads to stunted growth of bushes, crushing and shedding of berries, and negatively affects the next year's harvest. It is especially important to provide moisture to currant and gooseberry plants during the period of growth, formation of ovaries, filling of berries and after harvesting.

The soil is moistened to the depth of the root layer (30-40 cm), the approximate water consumption is 20-30 l per 1 m2 trunk circle. Watering is carried out in grooves 10-12 cm deep, which are made around the bush at a distance of 30 cm from the ends of the branches. Adult, fruit-bearing bushes are watered along furrows made on both sides of the bushes along the row. After watering, when the soil begins to dry out, it is loosened so that a crust does not form.

Neat and well-groomed currant and gooseberry bushes will easily fit into the landscape of your site. What should you do if you want to arrange and landscape your property, but don’t have the time to do it yourself? You can order design landscape design in St. Petersburg, as well as in others major cities, from specialists who will do this job better than you.

Caring for gooseberries and currants should begin in the spring.

First and important work After the snow melts in the spring, currant and gooseberry bushes are pruned. It should be carried out before the buds open and only after harsh winters it is transferred to more late dates- the period of leaf blossoming, when frozen parts of plants will be clearly visible. Currants and gooseberries can grow without pruning and in the early years produce good harvest. But with age, the yield begins to decline,

the berries become small, the bushes thicken, more pests and diseases accumulate in them; Such plants are more difficult to care for and harvest, and they age faster. Inside unthinned bushes, shoots and buds do not ripen and freeze out. The purpose of pruning is to keep the plant in a productive state. Productivity depends on age: for black currant the productive age of the branches is 5 years, for red currants and gooseberries - 6-8 years. The essence of pruning is the constant replacement of unproductive old branches with young productive ones.

In the first years after planting, pruning is aimed at the formation of a bush and comes down to the following: in the year of planting, all shoots are cut short, leaving only two to four buds on each. In the second year, from the grown root shoots, three or four of the strongest ones are left and located at some distance from each other, all the rest are removed from the very surface of the soil; the remaining shoots are shortened by 1/3 or 1/4 of their length (the shoots of red and white currants are not shortened).

In the third year, three or four root shoots are again left, the rest are removed, and this is done every year until a bush is formed. In black currants, bush formation is completed by five years, in red currants and gooseberries - by six to eight years. Subsequently, maintenance pruning is carried out, which consists of removing old branches (for black currants, branches older than five years are removed, and for red currants and gooseberries, branches older than six to eight years are removed). Old branches differ from young ones in the color of the bark (the older the branches, the darker the bark), short, weakened annual growths, weakening, drying out fruit formations.

Particular attention should be paid to the presence of root shoots in the bush, as they determine its vitality. If there are no basal shoots in the bush or there are very few of them, then it is necessary to induce their growth by removing one or two fruiting branches.

When forming bushes and pruning, they also remove broken branches, damaged by pests and diseases, weak, drying out, growing inside the bush, crossing branches, lying on the ground; frozen ones are pruned to the healthy, green part (this kind of pruning is called sanitary pruning). In bushes affected by powdery mildew, diseased shoot tips are removed; Branches severely affected by bud mites are also cut out.

Thickened (not formed, not pruned) bushes with low yields and small berries can be restored. To do this, sanitary pruning is carried out, and then unproductive old branches are cut out at the very base; if there are a lot of such branches, then half of them are removed in the first year, and the rest the next year. After such pruning, young basal shoots appear, from which the bush is re-formed. If there are no old branches in the bush, but there are many productive branches and they greatly thicken the bush, then it is necessary to remove some of the less productive ones and those, from cutting which there will be more light in the bush. When pruning large branches (more than 2 cm in diameter), the cuts should be painted over with paint - ocher or red lead diluted with natural drying oil.

Pruning gooseberries is generally done in the same way as currants, but has some peculiarities. Gooseberry bushes have many basal shoots, which greatly thicken the bush, making it difficult to care for the plant and harvest. Therefore, it is necessary to ration their number especially strictly, leaving only three or four of the strongest and most well-located shoots. In order to speed up fruiting and increase the yield of gooseberries, you can use summer pinching, which involves removing the tops of annual growths. This work must be carried out in our conditions in the first half of August.

Due to the fact that gooseberry bushes tend to become very thick, and its shoots are prickly, caring for them and harvesting are associated with certain difficulties. Therefore, some gardeners form bushes on a small stem (trunk) or grow a bush consisting of two or three perennial branches.

When growing bushes on a trunk, pruning is carried out as follows: when planting in a zone of 15 cm from the soil surface, all branches are removed; above, three to five young shoots are left, which are shortened by 2/3 of their length, making a cut at external kidney. In the second year, select six to eight branches that will form the basis of the bush skeleton, shorten them by 1/2 the length, and cut all other shoots short, leaving them only 3-5 cm long, which promotes the formation large number fruit buds.

When forming a bush from two or three perennial branches, two or three of the strongest branches are left in the bush, and all root shoots that appear during the summer are removed. In spring, shorten the ends of annual shoots and thin out inner part bush. Each of these perennial branches can produce up to 3 kg of berries.