Paths at the dacha connect all objects on the site: house, gate, summer kitchen, barn, gazebo, greenhouse, bathhouse, vegetable garden, shower. There is no way to do without them. In one area they can be made of various materials, have all sorts of configurations, but must necessarily fit into general view space. At your dacha, you can make paths with your own hands by first drawing up a plan.
Paths at the dacha connect all objects on the site: house, gate, summer kitchen, barn, gazebo, greenhouse, bathhouse, vegetable garden, shower
Designers recommend creating curved areas in small areas - this visually increases the area. Trees should not grow near paths, as their roots can damage the integrity of the surface. After drawing a diagram, estimate on the ground how convenient it will be to move from one object to another along the planned paths, so that later you don’t have the desire to redo everything. It's complicated. Paths even made from scrap materials, but well designed, give the area a neat, complete and cozy look.
First you need to decide on the coating. Most often it is made from paving slabs, concrete, stone, brick, wood, pebbles. General requirement for all materials - strength, moisture and frost resistance. The surface should be non-slippery and easy to clean. To mark and prepare the soil for laying, you need following materials and tools:
- pegs, cord;
- boards;
- shovel;
- sand, crushed stone;
- rammer;
- level;
- screwdriver
Determine the boundaries of the path by adding allowance to the formwork. Its width depends on the purpose. Usually, from the gate to the house it is made wide and continuous, but, for example, near the dog enclosure it can be narrow and intermittent. Pegs are placed along the marked edges and the string is pulled. Using a shovel, remove the turf to a depth of 10 cm, and level the bottom of the resulting trench. Straight lines of paths are limited by boards at the same level, securing them with stakes from the outside. The boards are screwed one to another using a screwdriver. Sand is poured into the trench and compacted. Its depth and height of the pillow depend on the selected covering material and technological features styling The coating can be hard or soft.
Hard tracks
Hard coatings include: paving slabs, concrete, clinker bricks, stone, wood.
Paving slabs are the most common option for paths on the site. The market offers many types, sizes, shapes and colors. There are plenty to choose from, including reasonable prices. Depending on the location, it can be laid on sand, crushed stone or mortar. In this case, it is necessary to follow the rule: the paths must be paved with a slight slope so that water flows from them freely.
The tiles are placed tightly, their position is leveled and rubber mallet, add sand if necessary. The quality of installation is controlled with a wooden block: if the tile is raised, it is planted by tapping on the block. It is correct to start laying from the curb. Having finished the work, the seams are covered with a mixture of sand and cement and watered. In order for the path to maintain its shape, it is limited by curbs, installing them on a liquid solution.
If it is intended to lay tiles on concrete, then after a cushion of sand and crushed stone is made, across the path at a distance of 1 m along the entire length, they are installed on the edge of the board to provide a compensation gap for temperature changes. They are leveled along the formwork, which should protrude 2-3 cm above ground level. To prevent concrete from sticking, the boards are treated with machine oil or drying oil.
To make smooth turns, the formwork is made from wet plywood; it can be bent in any way you like. The constructed frame is poured with concrete: cement (M500), sand, crushed stone in a ratio of 1:4:6, add as much water as the mixture will accept. To obtain a more plastic solution, a special plasticizer is used, you can use liquid soap. It is best to make the mass in a concrete mixer.
This is the most common option for paths on the site
A monolithic concrete path is inexpensive. It looks decorative if you add dye to the top layer and decorate it like a stone. The first layer of crushed stone is poured onto a prepared base 4 cm thick and a mesh with cells up to 20 cm is laid. When the solution hardens, a 3 cm layer of concrete without crushed stone with a small amount of water is applied on top of it, compacting it thoroughly. The surface is leveled and smoothed.
To decorate it like a stone, you can use bent reinforcement, applying a pattern to your taste. Usually along the edges of the path a pattern is made that imitates a small stone. To give the surface a characteristic porosity, you can treat it in places with a sponge. Until the concrete is fully matured, it must be protected from both sun and rain. The slower it matures, the stronger the coating.
Gallery: paths in the country (25 photos + video)
Forms for garden paths
You can make paths from decorative concrete by purchasing a special dry mixture and plastic or silicone mold with a drawing. Choose it with grooves that are small in depth and width, as dirt quickly accumulates in large gaps and the path loses its decorative effect. The shape pattern can consist of rhombuses, squares, fan-shaped rectangles, and all kinds of interlacing. Country paths made of decorative concrete look very stylish and cost no more than those laid with paving slabs. The work is performed in the following sequence:
- prepare the base as described above and cover it with a 10 cm layer of crushed stone;
- poured cement mortar and smooth;
- sprinkle with dry powder dye of the desired shade;
- stamp the surface with forms, laying them close to each other and lightly compacting them;
- after 3 days, wash the path with a brush dipped in a solution of hydrochloric acid;
- coated with acrylic varnish, which protects against negative impact and gives great attractiveness.
You can make paths from decorative concrete by purchasing a special dry mixture and a plastic or silicone mold with a pattern in the store.
Instead of a dye, you can use a hardener, which, in addition to the pigment that gives color, contains quartz sand. You can start pressing when concrete mixture does not reach for the finger placed on it.
Stone and wood
For wooden paths, larch is mainly used as the most moisture-resistant material. Solid decking is installed on piles of blocks 10-20 cm high terrace board with a pattern so that it is not slippery. The soil is leveled only under the blocks, placed on cushions of sand and gravel, isolating them from the ground and timber with roofing felt. First, they lay out the boards completely over the entire area of the path and only then attach them.
Despite the fact that wood is inferior in strength to stone and concrete and rots, to create paths in the countryside in rustic style using tree cuts. Often logs left over from dismantling old buildings are used for this purpose.
The trunk is divided into stumps 15-40 cm thick, the top layer is sanded, the bark is removed and the part that will be underground is treated with an antifungal agent, after which it is laid on the prepared surface and leveled.
Paths can be built from stone. They look very harmonious. It is not recommended to use shell rock and limestone, as they are short-lived and also slippery. Most often they are laid on sand. Making such a path will be slow, since each stone should be inspected, choosing the smoothest side, which will be on the outside. Often they have to be filed down. Having laid 2-3 m, the completed section is fixed by filling the cracks between the stones with a liquid solution of cement and sand (1:3). It’s convenient to do this by using a kind of cone made from an empty bag with a corner cut off. Slabs for stone paths must be at least 4 cm thick.
For wooden paths, larch is mainly used, since it is the most moisture-resistant material
Original new material for coverings - decking, or garden parquet. It consists of small sections made from planks of hardwood trees. Garden parquet is laid on supports that are selected in height so as to smooth out differences in ground level. The basis for decking can be a sand and gravel cushion, concrete covering with drain or wooden joists. The water underneath should not stagnate. It is installed quickly and easily. At the end of the season, it is disassembled, washed, lubricated with special oil and stored in a dry room.
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Neatly laid sidewalk paths, gracefully intertwining between green spaces, are an essential attribute in any garden. If you want your summer cottage to be truly complete and well-groomed, you should never neglect the paths. Fortunately, you don’t need to involve someone to set them up professional designers and spend a lot of money, because you can make beautiful paths in the garden with your own hands.
Wooden path
Wooden cuts
Wooden round timber is a fairly simple material for garden paths. The raw materials for this can be found in any garden - there are probably old trees growing everywhere, which are long overdue for replacement with new seedlings. Wooden paths are done according to the following scheme:
- Cut round timber from the wood you have, 20-50 cm in diameter and 20-30 cm in height. The blanks should be the same.
- Remove the bark from them and dry them in the sun for several days.
- Coat the workpieces with an antiseptic and primer to protect them from moisture and insects. Leave the round timber to dry for one day.
- Remove the soil along the entire length of the future path to a depth of 4-6 cm. Pour a small sand cushion and tamp it down well.
- Start laying the cuts, alternating small and large pieces so that there are small seams between them.
When choosing wood, you need to consider how healthy and durable it is. This will determine how long a path made from saw cuts will last in the garden. It is advisable to give preference to solid types of wood. For example, oak will last approximately 10 years, pine - no more than 7. Round timber of old trees can be eaten away by insects or rotten.
As practice shows, you don’t have to choose much - they use what is at hand. And if it turns out that after some time some saw cuts have become more damaged than others, then they can always be replaced with new ones.
It is advisable to choose dry logs for the sidewalk path. If the path is not made with decorative purpose, and in order to walk on it, you don’t need to cut the wood into thin rings.
Advantages and disadvantages
Garden paths made of wood have their advantages:
The main disadvantage is fragility of wood. Over time, it rots, especially in humid climates or in places where groundwater is high.
Boards
You can choose wooden planks as a material for paths in the garden. As a rule, such a path is laid as a continuous flooring. This can be done both longitudinally and transversely. To make the path winding, the edges of the boards are trimmed or laid in a special way. Using this approach, it is possible to model different options– for example, a pattern similar to parquet.
If the planks are placed at a certain distance from each other and the space between them is filled with gravel or backfill, then the path will resemble railroad tracks.
You can make a path from boards that are lined with solid flooring. This structure is made elevated from the ground by approximately 15 cm. Thus, the boards will not have contact with the ground, and the air space will allow the wood to dry faster after rain, which significantly contributes to the long-term use of the material.
It will take a lot of effort and effort to make a garden path with your own hands. wooden elements, but in the end it might work out a real masterpiece . This path will be an extraordinary and beautiful addition to the garden design.
Masonry
One of the most reliable options is tracks made of natural stone. In this case, you can choose rubble or cobblestone - they are equally durable. Laying stones on paths done this way:
- Mark the future path.
- Remove the top layer of soil from the area where you plan to pave the path. The layer depth required is 8-12 cm greater than the size largest stone, which is prepared for the path.
- Cover the resulting trench with a 12-15 cm layer of sand, level it well and compact it thoroughly.
- Place the stones one at a time on the sand cushion, pressing them firmly into the base. The step between small stones should be no more than 3-4 cm, and between large stones - 7-8 cm.
- Carefully fill the remaining space with concrete mortar. When the concrete has dried, fill the joints with fine sand or soil to make them look more natural.
Advantages of a stone path
Paving garden paths with stone makes it possible to save money for the developer and allows you to feel like a real landscape designer. Moreover, this process is not so complicated and responsible.
The most important things before you start choose a garden path design and decide on their paving scheme, highlighting the main areas where these paths will lead. These can be gazebos and outbuildings, flower beds and lawns, children's sandboxes, technical structures and barbecue areas, and artificial ponds.
As a rule, the width of the paths is chosen so that a garden cart can easily pass. Depending on the type of path, it is constructed with or without a curb. The path can be level with the ground or rise above it. IN everyday life The first option is more convenient, the second is better in terms of cleaning - this way less sand or soil is applied.
The path in the garden can be paved on a concrete or cement base. In addition to natural stone, you can choose paving stones, paving slabs, decking, clinker bricks, composite boards, concrete poured into special forms, and artificial stone.
A modern design solution is a geogrid, that is shallow landing lawn grass between parts of the structure.
Pouring concrete
Concrete is traditional material for construction, which enjoys constant popularity due to its ease of operation and its low cost. Build a cast path Anyone can definitely:
- Mark the boundaries of the path, drive pegs along its contour and pull the rope.
- Dig a small trench within the marked contours. Depth approximately 25 cm.
- Place a 10 cm layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench. Compact this cushion.
- Cover the pillow with chain-link or any available metal mesh.
- Build formwork around the perimeter of the path.
- Mix the solution: 1.5 parts sand, 1 part cement, 1 part water and 2 parts gravel.
- Fill in cement composition and with vibrating movements, evenly, using a spatula, distribute the mixture over the entire area of the path. While pouring, pierce the mixture with a rod to release the remaining air.
- Using the rule, make final leveling and cover the track with film.
- In 4-5 days the path will be ready. All this time you need to lightly moisten it with water so that the concrete gains maximum strength and does not crack.
Car tires
Car tires have long been widely used in dacha farming: they are used to build swings, ponds, flower beds, and now they are also used to lay paths. This trend is understandable, given performance of this material: tires are easy to care for, resistant to temperature changes and moisture, are durable and non-slip. You can make a garden path out of them this way:
Brick paths
Best used clinker products, since they are characterized by increased resistance to various kinds mechanical and chemical influences. The most important thing is that the bricks are without chips and intact, otherwise the path will turn out not only unattractive, but also unsafe.
The path is laid out like this:
- Mark the path: drive a peg around the perimeter and stretch a rope.
- Dig a trench along the contour - depth 20-30 cm.
- Install boards or bars along this trench.
- Pour a 15 cm layer of gravel into the space between the stops and compact it well. Place a layer of sand about 6-7 cm on top.
- Remove the limiters and make curbs instead: on both sides of the path, lay a row of bricks installed “on edge”.
- Form from bricks interior space paths: laying occurs in the usual position using gentle tapping with a rubber hammer or wooden spatula.
Recommendation: the bricks do not have to be laid out closely - to give the path originality, you can leave small gaps and fill them with pebbles. In addition, you don’t even have to fill the seams - through certain time grass will grow here and decorate your path.
Paving slabs
Although tile can hardly be called a very cheap material, it is still used quite often for the construction of garden paths. There are several reasons for this: ease of working with the material, excellent performance and aesthetic appearance. But the most important thing is ease of installation.
- Mark the boundaries of the future path using pegs and rope.
The path is required element any suburban or summer cottage, which can, in addition to practical benefits, also provide aesthetic pleasure. Observing simple instructions, you can implement any of the options described above on your site, so feel free to start working, discovering new opportunities for improving your personal plot.
Garden paths at the dacha decorate the landscape and keep the house clean. In this article we will describe several options. The purpose of the paths is to connect the house with the bathhouse, gazebo, outbuildings, entrance area. It is supposed to be built independently, using simple tools and building materials sold on the markets.
Garden paths: design and construction
The complexity of the garden path “pie” largely depends on the soil on your site. And it varies in many regions. The consumption will depend on this building materials, and also preliminary preparation for the construction of paths. If you have groundwater far away, and after the fertile layer there is dense clay, then you will need to remove the fertile layer and level the base.
Why remove the topsoil when building garden paths?
1. good land you will need for farming.
2. The height of the paths should be slightly higher than the ground level by 1-2 cm, so that water does not stagnate on it during rain.
3. The layer of sand and crushed stone should be approximately equal and be about 30 cm high.
In many regions, groundwater is very high and can be at a depth of 50 cm. In this case, there is a high probability that in the fall after heavy rains the entire foundation sidewalk paths will be saturated with water, and in winter this whole pie will freeze. Thawing and freezing, garden paths may “tell”, they will take on a wavy appearance, which is often observed even on city streets.
What are the recommendations for constructing garden paths if the groundwater is high?
1. Use non-woven geotextile fabric when constructing sidewalk paths and platforms. The service life of geotextiles in the ground is about 25 years. It does not rot, does not mold, is tear-resistant and easy to install. Its cost is relatively low.
2. To prevent gravel from entering the clay and mixing with it on unstable soils, lay the geotextile fabric on the ground with an overlap above the soil line.
3. A greater effect will be achieved if geotextiles are laid between the soil and sand.
4. If garden paths will be the blind area of the house, insulate them with polystyrene foam sheets to prevent freezing.
Materials for the construction of a garden path at the dacha
Before you start building a path in your country house, determine its width and length. Best width a path is considered if two people can move freely along it. The gate at the dacha is made approximately 100 cm in size, which means, given the fact that standard sizes paving slabs - 30x30 cm, we will make a path 100-120 cm wide.
Building materials for the construction of a garden path:
- geotextile - density 200 g/sq.m;
- paving slabs - 30x30 cm;
- curb stone- 30x 50x 4 cm;
- crushed stone;
- river sand;
- hand tamper, shovels, wheelbarrow.
Installing sidewalk curbs, strengthening garden paths
Why do you need a garden border?
1. The border gives the path, platform, blind area a finished and beautiful look.
2. The border protects the coating from spreading; without it, the tiles can “move” beyond the intended path.
How to install a sidewalk border for a garden path or area in the country
1. Using pegs, mark the boundaries of the path and stretch the string along its boundaries.
2. The height of the twine should be equal to the height of the installed border. We determine it depending on the height of the curb itself, taking into account the bedding for its installation (crushed stone, sand, concrete mortar for fastening). If the curb is level with the height of the path, then the twine will be at the level of the planned height of the finished path.
3. Along the edges of the path, we remove soil 20 cm wide, with a depth such that after adding gravel and sand, the height of the curb will not be higher than the laid tiles.
4. Carefully compact each layer of gravel - 10-15 cm and sand - 10-15 cm, pouring them with water;
5. Garden borders install on concrete mixture. To prepare it, mix fine crushed stone (fractions 15), river sand, cement (grade 500) with water. The ratio of all these ingredients is 2/2.5/1/2.
6. To coat the joints between the curbs, prepare a concrete solution of sand and cement - 3/1.
We pour concrete 10 cm high into a dug pit with compacted crushed stone and sand and lay a curb on it. Using a rubber hammer, we tap it along the entire length of the border, setting it down by 4-5 cm, but at the same height as the stretched twine.
We distribute the concrete along the length of the trench and lay the second curb, having previously coated its end with a layer of mortar of sand and concrete (1/3). We connect the borders together, bringing them closer by tapping them with a rubber hammer until the distance between them is 3-5 mm, removing the excess mortar. We hammer the curb into depth with a hammer, just like the first one. In this way we connect and install the remaining borders.
Technology for paving paving slabs for a blind area or area adjacent to a house
1. We mark the direction and dimensions of the site with pegs on the ground.
2. We remove soft soil, possibly up to 50 cm deep, depending on its structure on your site;
We lay geotextiles along the entire length of the path.
3. Level the entire path with sand, horizontally in a layer of 15 cm.
4. If too much soil has been removed, then enough sand needs to be poured so that the ground level is 36 cm.
do not forget about compacting this sand; you need to compact the sand in layers of no more than 5-7 cm, pouring plenty of water on the layers.
5. Absolutely flat surface We lay sheets of polystyrene foam out of sand; they should fit tightly to the surface and not “play” anywhere. Expanded polystyrene is needed so that the platform does not freeze and does not rise or fall in the spring. Expanded polystyrene insulates the site.
6. We again lay geotextiles on the polystyrene foam and pour crushed stone - 5x20 mm, or 20x40, in a layer of 10 cm. Geotextiles must be laid on the polystyrene foam so that the crushed stone does not press into it, but lies as a separate, even mass.
7. Crushed stone must be leveled with a rake and compacted either manual tamper or vibrating plate.
We again lay geotextiles on the leveled and compacted crushed stone, secure it and pour sand on top. We tamp the sand with moisture every 5 cm. You can moisten the sand with a watering can or with the tip of the hose clamped. The compacted sand must be at least 15 cm deep.
8. On compacted and leveled sand, we begin to lay paving slabs on a cement-sand layer. Cement-sand mixture is sold at construction markets in bags. This layer should be approximately 2 cm.
When building a path, be sure to slope away from the house. After laying the paving slabs, sprinkle all garden paths with a cement-sand mixture and sweep with a broom so that all the seams are well filled. Upon completion of construction, pour a path from a watering can or hose, clamping the tip or with a nozzle. The cement-sand mixture will set into a monolith. with your own hands, see the article of the same name.
Technology for constructing garden paths for a summer residence with your own hands
1. Using pegs, tape measure and rope, we determine the direction and dimensions of the path.
2. Remove from the marked area fertile land with herbs approximately 30-35 cm deep.
3 Install sidewalk curbs(curb stones).
4. Using sand, level the path horizontally.
5. Garden paths will serve you for a long time if you line the bottom with geotextiles. This is especially necessary when high level groundwater.
6. Pour gravel or broken bricks onto the geotextile - 20 x 40 mm in a layer of 10-15 cm.
7. Using a hand tamper, thoroughly compact this layer, pouring water from a watering can.
8. Depending on financial capabilities, we again lay geotextiles along the entire length of the path so that the sand and gravel do not mix over time.
9. Pour coarse river sand onto the geotextile in layers of 5 cm, pour it with water from a watering can and carefully compact it with a hand tamper until the sand layer is 15 cm thick.
10. Spread a 2 cm layer of sand-cement mixture onto the leveled and compacted sand and begin laying paving slabs away from you.
11. After laying the tiles, sprinkle the entire surface with sand-cement mixture and sweep the entire path with a broom, then spill it with water.
Tips for installing paving slabs and installing curb stones
- Control the dimensions of your site so that the stones are intact and you don’t have to cut them.
- Different batches of tiles may be different sizes and even slightly different in pattern, the seams may be uneven.
- After exhibiting side stones according to the level, it is necessary to seal all the resulting voids with a solution.
- The gaps that have arisen between the stones and curbs should be eliminated using a mixture of dry cement and sand. Then pour water and wait until the surface is completely dry.
- Border stones can be poured directly along the edge of a path or flower bed, making formwork for this. you can read in the article of the same name.
With the need to do DIY paths at the dacha we collide more and more often it's raining on our site and the more the soil on it gets wet. It is the treated paths that allow us to easily and comfortably reach the most remote corners of the garden without getting our feet wet or dirty. In addition, the coating must be made beautiful in order to fit perfectly into.
Beautiful paths in the country with your own hands
So, what can you build from? beautiful paths in the country with your own hands? There are actually a great many options and you will be limited only by your imagination and the availability of building materials. Very often it involves the construction of stationary wide roads, which divide the entire area into small areas, and allows several people to move comfortably at the same time. Stationarity is to some extent a necessary measure, because the lawns are equipped with a hidden irrigation system, nearby there are ponds, trees, garden decorations and composition, so there is certainly no need for anyone to move the road.
Such a path must be laid for centuries - durable, strong, not afraid of frost or moisture. Ideally, this task can be accomplished with a high-quality concrete mixture, which is poured into wooden formwork, using reinforcing mesh to impart rigidity to the structure. The alternative is ready-made concrete slabs, which are stacked sequentially one after another. Due to their large weight, they often do not even need a foundation - a “trough”; they can simply be laid down and tamped down a little. But such concrete paths and roads do not look very aesthetically pleasing; their appearance, somewhat rough and simple, would suit, say, houses and plots in modern style or in a minimalist style.
A more expensive type of stationary path is facing with natural stone slabs. Not everyone can afford such luxury, but it is precisely this circumstance that attracts owners who include them in their projects. Granite, marble, basalt are used both in solids and in various combinations with each other, creating stone mosaic designs. At high-quality installation The lifespan of these tracks is virtually unlimited, so it is without a doubt a smart investment.
The terrace is a favorite for many and is often placed at the back of the garden, away from prying eyes. Paths from the porch of the house can lead there, because we will need to walk back and forth quite often. To make the style echo, you can make a path from exactly the same material from which the terrace cladding is made.
Paths made from the cheapest materials - gravel, pebbles, as well as artificial stone– flagstone – and paving slabs. They are relatively inexpensive, but you will have minimal hassle with installation, and such paths will suit any design style. If we recall unusual materials for manufacturing, we can recall ceramic tiles, red clinker bricks, wooden blocks or saw cuts, even plastic bottle caps.
Do-it-yourself paths in the country, ideas on how to make them
So, let’s look at the first stage of construction to understand where to start do-it-yourself paths at the dacha. Ideas on how to do it not so much, the principle is the same for everyone, since it involves digging a small foundation (base), which we will cover on top with a road surface of any kind.
First, we draw a site plan to understand exactly where all our communication routes will be located. You will also need to decide whether they will be permanent or if you may later decide to move them to the side to make room for beds or trees. Armed with a bayonet shovel, dig a trench along the entire outlined area of the future path, going 10-15 centimeters down. You can pre-install a curb stone on the sides or special plastic curbs, which are sold in rolls. Inside the trench (or trough, as it is also called) we fill in small crushed stone, which acts as a compactor. Since the crushed stone base will have to withstand enough heavy weight, it needs to be compacted well, pressing from above with your hands or wooden hammers. Compact well, sinking layers of pebbles into the ground; it is due to the density that your path will remain in place and will not “float” later.
On top of the fine gravel, it is necessary to lay ballast - a drainage layer that will help efficiently drain excess water. Ballast can also be crushed stone, but of a larger fraction 10-40. AND last layer Our sandwich will be sand, quite coarse, which is poured over the top of the ballast. You can install paving slabs, bricks and some other types of facing materials into it.
Do-it-yourself paths in the country: master class
Now that our base is ready, we can begin laying road surface, that is, directly the layer on which we will walk with our feet. The simplest and most accessible do-it-yourself paths in the countryside master class dedicated to bulk coating. The amount of small stone or brick chips is determined empirically, but since such material is inexpensive, you can buy it with a reserve. Unused remains can be poured into the base.
So, we build the bed as described in the previous section. Only in this case top layer there will be gravel, not sand. The layers will be: compacted earth, pebble stone or brick chips and gravel. It needs to be poured so that its layer is level with the level of the surrounding lawns, but be sure to provide the entire structure with reliable sides and curbs. They will prevent the bulk material from quickly spreading throughout the rest of the area. The advantage of this particular coating is its hygroscopicity, ease of installation and the fact that such a coating is not afraid of icing in winter.
Another master class is devoted to laying paving slabs. Paths from it can be created in any shape, around flower beds with lush marigolds, around a pool, pond or swing. The laying technology is as follows: we prepare a “trough”, on top we have a layer of compacted sand. We lay the paving slab parts directly into it in even rows, deepening each of them into the sand using a hammer with a rubber tip (so as not to break brittle material). From time to time you need to check the row level by placing a level wooden slats for several tiles. If any of them sticks out, then they are leveled by knocking directly on the rail with a hammer. Make sure that the joints are as narrow as possible, then the tiles will lie more monolithically.
To secure the material, you can use an additional trick by using a material called grating to grout the tile joints - this is a very fine fraction of crushed stone, which tends to hold the elements together after getting wet in the first rain. Instead of prancing, you can use a mixture of sand and cement (5:1), although in this case it is better not to wait for favors from nature and arrange the rain yourself, since otherwise the light sand can simply be blown out of the seams by the wind. Two days will be enough for high-quality hardening and you will already be able to fully load your new road.
Do-it-yourself paths in the countryside video
Use in your work on do-it-yourself paths at the dacha video worth it in cases where we're talking about oh for real complex technologies, which have their own nuances. For example, this could be concreting using a shaped form. After hardening, the form is removed, and the surface becomes like one lined with smooth stone.
It is also quite difficult to lay materials on a pre-concrete surface. After all, you need to install high-quality formwork the desired shape. You can use original techniques for digging pebbles, flagstones, and natural stones into uncured screeds. After they are laid and the mixture has hardened, the surface should be thoroughly sanded using special equipment.
Screed – necessary condition for arranging paths from non-standard materials, such as ceramic tiles for the yard in oriental style or rubber modules, which themselves are soft and without a solid base will sag under your weight.
Do-it-yourself paths at the dacha made of stones
Let's touch on the arrangement in a little more detail. do-it-yourself dacha paths made of stones. We are not interested in expensive marble and granite, since it is very difficult to work with them yourself; to cut them you need to use complex and expensive equipment. But we can also make a coating from flagstone no worse.
On the sand “trough” you need to lay a fairly thick flagstone, about 8 mm. However, you should not try to lay it in such a way as to minimize seams, due to irregular shape You won’t be able to do this for each piece. Deepen the slabs well into the sand, rub the seams halfway with a grout, and water. Then take the soil that you removed when digging the trench, mix it with lawn grass seeds and carefully fill the remaining height of each seam with such soil, water it. After some time, green shoots will appear between the slabs, which will make your path very elegant.
To apply for a loan online, just fill out an application form on the MFO website containing your passport details, the desired loan amount and some other information. Also, if you plan to receive money on the card, you will need to have a registered Visa or MasterCard with CVV2 to receive funds.
A decision on an application is made from a few minutes to half an hour. If the loan amount exceeds 30-50 thousand rubles, the application is reviewed manually, which affects the processing time. The speed of receipt of money depends on the chosen method of receipt - to an account, to a card, to an electronic wallet or in cash and on the loan amount. Money is transferred at any time of the day, as well as on holidays and weekends.
You can increase the loan term for a period of 1-30 days. In some cases, if there are compelling reasons, the loan is extended without overpayments. In other cases, an additional commission fee is paid for loan extension. The number of possible extensions must be clarified with the microfinance organization.
For the first time, you can borrow an amount from 1 thousand rubles to 30 thousand rubles, depending on different conditions. The size of the first loan is affected by the borrower’s income, loan term, good credit history, and conditions for certain programs.
The MFO checks the validity of the passport through the FMS database, registration address, contact information of the borrower, assesses his solvency, and looks at open records in the FSSP database. Online client profiles are checked by an automated scoring system. Data from the BKI and bank card information are also checked.
Bad credit history still no reason to expect rejection. If the CI is damaged due to the fault of the creditor bank, you can contact the BCI with a statement. In other cases, you can try to correct it with a chain of small microloans taken sequentially and repaid in a timely manner.
If the loan is not given, you should find out the reason. For example, get your CI and study it to see if there are any delays caused by the banks. Maybe you have accumulated debt on utility bills - it needs to be paid off. After some time, you can re-apply to the microfinance organization to receive a smaller loan amount. Several consecutive small loans taken and repaid in a timely manner will improve your position in MFOs.
If the money is not returned to the MFO in due time, you will be charged penalties for a certain period stipulated in the agreement. If you do not contact and repay the loan during this time, your case will be referred to a collection agency, which will work with you to resolve how to return the money. If you avoid communicating with debt collectors, the case will be transferred to bailiffs who:
- funds on the salary card will be seized;
- travel abroad will be limited;
- will seize your personal property.