As is known, heat flow is always directed towards lower temperature. So, for example, the heat heated in winter period the house rushes out through the enclosing structures (walls, windows, doors, roofing) and as a result is lost.
It is estimated that for heating uninsulated houses old building you need about 220-270 kWh/mChod. According to modern standards According to thermal protection, energy consumption for newly built houses should not exceed 54-100 kWh/mChod. If we consider that 10 kWh corresponds to the energy obtained by burning approximately 1 liter of liquid boiler fuel, then it is not difficult to calculate how much fuel (money) can be saved if you effectively insulate the house.
Note that heat loss through individual elements houses are different and depend on the thermal insulation qualities of the structures and their sizes. The maximum heat loss occurs, as a rule, on the outer walls - up to 35-45% of the heat escapes through them (depending on the design).
A significantly smaller percentage of the total area of external fences consists of windows. However, their resistance to heat transfer is 2-3 times less than that of external walls. Therefore, windows account for up to 20-30% of the heat loss of the entire house.
A considerable part of the heat is lost through the roof. Moreover, in one- and two-story buildings, losses are much higher than in multi-story buildings, and amount to about 30-35% of total heat losses. About 3-10% of the heat escapes through the ceilings. Of course, some of the heat flows out of the house through utility pipes.
The temperature characteristics of an uninsulated wall in the summer (above) and winter (below) periods indicate the need for thermal insulation, if only because of the temperature of the inner surface of the wall.
A “cold bridge” is formed, for example, at the junction of a reinforced concrete floor with a facing concrete belt and the facade of an external wall: 1 - external wall; 2 - floating screed; 3 - interfloor ceiling; 4 - “bridge of cold”.
If there is a “cold bridge”, condensation may form in the living room. At a room temperature of 20°C, one cubic meter of air can contain 17.5 g of moisture in the form of water vapor. When the temperature on the inner surface of the outer wall drops to 0″C, the indicated volume of air may contain only 5 g of moisture. The remaining 12.5 g of moisture condenses and settles on the cold wall.
Condensation forms where there are “cold bridges”, for example, where the internal thermal insulation is interrupted by a transverse wall: 1 - external wall; 2 - internal thermal insulation; 3 - corner where the temperature is reduced to 6-7°C; 4 - transverse wall; 5 - condensate; 6 - place where the temperature is reduced to 17°C.
Of course, it is impossible to achieve a complete absence of heat leaks in an energy-efficient house. But it is possible to reduce losses to a reasonable minimum. One way is to reduce the perimeter of the exterior walls. If you do not want to change the architecture of the building, you need to take care of proper insulation. Because the greatest number heat is lost through the walls, so we’ll talk about them first.
As is known, there are three main options for wall insulation: place the insulation on the inner surface of the wall; hide it inside the enclosing structure; arrange insulation of the wall from the outside. Each of these methods has its own characteristics.
The energy state of the house is shown by thermographic studies. Heat leaks are clearly visible here.
Internal wall insulation
This method has a number of disadvantages. Obviously, with this arrangement of insulation, the area of the premises is reduced. But this is not the main problem. The main thing is that with internal insulation, the wall is in a zone of negative temperatures, which partly affects the insulation itself. In addition, the natural diffusion of water vapor through the fence is disrupted, and conditions are created for the formation of condensation at the boundary of the wall and the insulation. Increased humidity leads not only to a decrease in thermal performance, but also to the appearance and active growth of fungi and mold. Another serious drawback is that external walls, insulated from the inside, lose their heat-accumulating properties.
Internal insulation. In the absence of a vapor barrier, condensation forms at the boundary of the layers.
Internal thermal insulation using expanded polystyrene (styrofoam): 1 - a combined layer of styrofoam and plasterboard; 2 - adhesive solution; 3 - plasterboard; 4 -styrofoam; 5 - masonry; 6 - plaster.
Internal thermal insulation using mineral fiber boards. Unlike styrofoam, which itself is vapor-proof, additional insulation is required here: 1 - plasterboard; 2 - mineral fiber board 80 mm thick; 3 - vapor-proof film; 4 - masonry.
Thus, internal thermal insulation is advisable only if the house has a unique external design, which can be disrupted by external insulation of its walls (for example, if we are talking about architectural monuments).
Insulation of an external wall from the inside using a metal supporting structure. Thin soundproofing strips are installed between the wall and the profiles. Mineral fiber boards 50 mm thick were used as insulation.
There are other reasons why you may prefer internal insulation. For example, it is easier to insulate a house from the inside than from the outside. Even an amateur can do this task. Another plus is that a room with internal thermal insulation can be warmed up faster. Finally, work related to internal insulation can be carried out gradually, in individual rooms.
External wall insulation
One of the advanced methods of thermal insulation is “warm facade” or “wet” type external insulation- the most universal and has been used in many European countries for more than half a century. For example, in Germany alone, during 1996, such systems were used on an area of more than 43 million m2!!!
Combined wet system- multilayer construction, which is based on three layers. Thermal insulation layer - slabs made of materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient (mineral wool or polystyrene foam). The second layer is a special plaster and adhesive composition, reinforced with an alkali-resistant mesh. The third layer is protective and decorative plaster (mineral, acrylic, silicate, silicone), which can be painted with special paints.
Shown here is the installation of insulation between the main and facing masonry using a compressor unit. Volcanic rock, better known as perlite, is used as insulation.
There are many advantages of “wet” type external thermal insulation. The main thing is the ability to provide the façade insulation required by standards using inexpensive means. In this case, the walls will be thin, since they only need to have sufficient bearing capacity, and the insulation will not allow heat loss. In addition, the walls will be light, which means that the cost of constructing a foundation, one of the most expensive elements of a building, will be reduced. The indoor air temperature is energy efficient home distributed more evenly, resulting in a more pleasant microclimate. Wet-type systems also significantly improve the sound insulation properties of walls.
Combined “wet” type systems based on polystyrene foam or mineral fiber boards covered with vapor-permeable plaster with fiberglass have proven themselves to be excellent for external thermal insulation.
In summer “warm façade” reduces heating of enclosing structures under the influence of sun rays And high temperature air, so the indoor temperature will not rise sharply.
In order for a “warm facade” to retain its performance properties for a long time, it must meet certain requirements. For example, it is very important that all layers of a “warm facade” not only have the necessary indicators for water absorption, vapor permeability, frost resistance, thermal expansion, but also combined with each other according to these indicators.
Compatibility is determined only by calculation of the system as a whole. Thus, it is necessary that in a multilayer structure, each subsequent layer (from the inside to the outside) allows steam to pass through better than the previous one. Underestimation of this circumstance leads to the use together, for example, of mineral wool insulation with excellent vapor permeability and polymer decorative plaster (thin, but poorly permeable to steam). The result is peeling of the finishing layer. To avoid such situations, experts do not recommend using cheap but unfamiliar materials, as this usually has a detrimental effect on the quality and service life of the “warm facade”.
The basis for “wet” type thermal insulation can be reinforced concrete (panels or monolith), brick or stone masonry, foam concrete, metal, wood, etc. Some difficulties, according to some experts, are walls made of foam concrete blocks. They themselves are very “warm” and, moreover, have high vapor permeability, which in combination with an external insulation system can lead to troubles: a shift in the dew point into the thickness of the block (instead of the insulation board) or a zone of negative temperatures inside the wall, condensation at the boundary of the insulation and plaster layer. All this reduces the durability of the structure and even destroys it.
Perimeter insulating slabs are used as external thermal insulation in the foundation area: 1 - basement wall; 2 - horizontal waterproofing of the outer wall; 3 - primer; 4 - vertical waterproofing; 5 - perimeter insulating plate; 6 - outer layer.
To avoid these problems, you should carefully select the density and thickness of foam concrete blocks, the type and thickness of insulation, fasteners and materials for reinforced and protective and decorative layers.
Ventilated facade systems
More than 50% of new buildings in Europe have ventilated facades. In this case, the thermal insulation material is laid in a sheathing, to which elements of the outer shell made of slate, boards, slabs, etc. are attached.
A special feature of this system is the presence of a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and the decorative finish. In the summer heat, this design prevents penetration
heat through outer wall into the room. In winter, facing slabs protect from wind, and the air space in the wall acts as additional insulation. A positive point is also the absence of sudden changes in the temperature of the fence. This wall design does not prevent moisture from escaping - they breathe.
External walls can be insulated with curtain walls, for example, made of fiber cement boards, shingles or tongue-and-groove boards. It is important that there is a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation laid between the sheathing slats, which is necessary for air circulation.
Facade slabs protect the old wall from the effects of rain. Moisture that accidentally penetrates through joints or gaps of fasteners does not reach the insulation or load-bearing structures, and thanks to sufficient ventilation, it dries on the inner surface of the cladding without damaging the wall itself.
Often as facing material Fiber cement boards are used in suspended facade systems. They consist of 85% cement and 15% cellulose fibers and various mineral fillers, and are made by pressing.
The composition and unique production technologies give the material environmental friendliness, fire safety, low moisture and sound permeability. The material is durable - its service life is about 100-150 years, and its frost resistance is up to 300 cycles, which is several times higher than that of brick. The slabs are easy to install and process.
Another advantage of the curtain wall system- the possibility of using insulation with a layer of up to 250 mm. For this purpose, hydrophobized mineral wool slabs based on basalt fiber are used, specially developed for ventilated facades. This insulation is absolutely fireproof, environmentally friendly and has good vapor permeability.
The system can be installed fairly quickly. The work is carried out all year round, since wet processes are completely excluded, which is especially important for Russia with its cold climate.
Roof insulation
The house should be thermally insulated on all sides, including the top. Moreover, it is advisable to insulate not only the floor, but also the roof, even if the attic space is not planned to be made residential.
When thermal insulation is laid on top of the rafters, the roof will be most reliably protected from temperature fluctuations. If this is not possible, the insulation is placed between the rafters, or even under them. It is very important to properly protect the insulation from blowing and moisture from the side of the roofing and from steam from the side of the room.
Shown here is the structure of the roof with the placement of insulation between the rafters: 1 - hydro-windproof film; 2 - vapor barrier film.
Temperature and humidity conditions have a significant impact on the service life of thermal insulation. operation of the structure, exposure to wind, snow and other mechanical loads. In addition, insulation materials must retain their basic functions for a long time (including water and bioresistance), not emit toxic or unpleasant-smelling substances during operation, and meet fire safety requirements.
As a rule, the roofs of country houses are pitched. Strength requirements for thermal insulation materials for pitched roofs they are not so rigid, but it is important that the material does not sag under its own weight and does not shrink. Otherwise, “cold bridges” may appear under the ridge. This effect often occurs when using low-density fiberglass products.
Expanded polystyrene is only partially suitable for insulating pitched roofs: it is flammable, which means it requires fire-fighting measures, including fire-retardant impregnation of wooden structures, installation of fire-retardant layers, etc.
It is most advisable to use hydrophobized slabs made of basalt rocks.
These materials laminated with foil or fiberglass are best suited for insulating unloaded roof structures.
The listed measures for insulating houses must be carried out in compliance with an important requirement: the insulation must be continuous, without gaps, since any place where the thermal insulation is interrupted forms a “cold bridge”. In addition, in uninsulated places, due to temperature differences, condensation can form, which will certainly lead to the destruction of the structure.
Let's remember physics. As you know, the air always contains a certain amount of water vapor. They determine air humidity, which is higher the higher the more moisture contained in 1 m3 of air.
However, the air can only be saturated with water to a certain extent. For example, at a temperature of 20°C, 1 m3 of air can contain 17.5 g of moisture.
If this value is exceeded at the same temperature, moisture from the air will begin to fall out in the form of small droplets - condensation. At the same time, the lower the air temperature, the less water it can contain. For example, at a temperature of 0°C its amount is only 5 g per 1 m3. Thus, if air at a temperature of 20°C begins to cool to 5°C, then 12.5 g of moisture will fall out in the form of condensation.
Window insulation
The thermal balance of a home largely depends on windows.
Modern window systems based on double-glazed windows with effective sealing of seams can significantly reduce heat loss. However, with such reliable insulation of windows, the air in the rooms becomes more humid and saturated with harmful substances. Under these conditions, the issue of room ventilation becomes acute.
Equipped with well-sealed windows, an energy-efficient house is equipped ventilation system with a heat exchanger and an additional heat pump: A - outside air; B - exhaust air; C - air exhausted into the atmosphere; D - supply air; 1 - heat exchanger; 2 - fan; 3 - heat pump.
Modern double-glazed windows have very high thermal insulation properties: 1 - glass; 2 - xenon gas; 3 - drying agent; 4 - butyl seal; 5 - polysulfide seal; 6 - aluminum spacer element.
Modern window designs provide ventilation when the window is closed.
Recently, specially designed windows have appeared on the market that provide constant air exchange. At the same time, neither draft nor street noise are felt. In the same time modern market offers a wide range of fans and heat exchangers that reduce energy consumption through rational ventilation of rooms.
Windows in an energy-efficient house have another function: receiving additional heat from the sun's rays.
When using highly insulating glass, the temperature on their inner surface is 17″C, which creates a favorable microclimate in the room. At a similar temperature outside the window, the surface temperature ordinary double glazed windows equal to only 9″C.
The use of solar energy in combination with internal heat, the source of which is gas or electric stove, incandescent lamps, human body, etc., helps save energy.
Significantly greater heat savings in the presence of double-glazed windows can be achieved by using heating system with electronic regulation.
Heating systems
What components of the heating system need to be modernized to make the house energy efficient?
For clarity, the heating system can be divided into five constituent elements: heat generator (for example, a heating boiler), heat distribution unit (pipelines with a circulation pump), devices for releasing heat into the room (heating radiators, “warm floor”, etc.), control and regulation devices, chimney.
Currently, the most effective in terms of energy savings are low-temperature boilers using water steam. Unlike traditional heating boilers operating at temperatures of 70-90°C, low-temperature boilers operate in the temperature range of 40-75°C.
Low-temperature heating system using water steam: 1 - low-temperature heating battery; 2 - condensate; 3 - exhaust gas.
The peculiarity of boilers using steam is that, compared to conventional low-temperature boilers, they produce more heat with less fuel consumption and, therefore, less harmful emissions.
Typically, water vapor produced when fuel is burned is lost along with the gases released into the atmosphere. In these same boilers, water vapor passes through a heat exchanger, where it gives off its heat, which is then returned to the heating system.
Low temperature boilers can also provide domestic water for your home.
A low-temperature heating system requires the use of heating devices whose heat transfer surface is larger than that of conventional batteries. Therefore, a “warm floor” with its extensive surface goes well with this system.
Heat for heating and domestic water heating is produced solar collectors and a wood-burning stove.
Modern industry produces many mechanical and electronic devices management and regulation, allowing optimal energy consumption. One of them is an outside temperature sensor (usually on the northwest side of the house). It transmits temperature data to the control device, which, if necessary, turns on the burner, increasing the temperature at the inlet of the heating system. Temperature heating batteries support thermostats. These devices are installed both on the heating boiler (central) and in the rooms.
Diagram of a modern heating system: 1 - weather sensor; 2 - specified work program; 3 - central device; 4 - thermostat; 5 - thermostat valve; 6 - mixer with actuator motor; 7 - heating pump.
Time-programmable appliances lower the temperature at night or even during the day when the house is empty (on weekends or during vacations). However, you should not sharply reduce the temperature, otherwise, when it increases, condensation may form on the cooled surfaces. In addition, heating a very cold room will require more energy consumption.
Thus, only by properly insulating your house and equipping it with equipment that allows you to use heat economically will you become less dependent on energy prices. And most importantly, an energy-efficient house will always have a healthy microclimate and comfort.
Search tags:Why are almost no energy-efficient houses being built in our country? It turns out that it’s all about vague benefits, which developers sometimes have no idea about.
IN last years It has become fashionable to talk about energy efficiency from different platforms. But if you ask an experienced builder a question about why you need to build an energy-efficient house, then, perhaps, he will not immediately have an answer. Why?
And all because the benefits from such construction are blurred, says a member of the Expert Council under the State Duma Committee on Housing Policy and Housing and Communal Services. Leonid Zhuravel. - Our Russian developer, indeed, does not always understand why he should invest in the construction of a house with energy-efficient characteristics.
How to interest a developer
Firstly, it is highly doubtful that he will be able to sell it at a higher price on the market: our population is still poorly acquainted with the advantages of a resource-saving building. Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to receive any benefits from the state - neither tax nor any other preferences are provided for such projects. This is where a reasonable question arises: what is all this really for?
It is at this fork in the road, notes Leonid Zhuravel, that the progressive and already widely used technology for saving energy resources is abandoned.
Meanwhile, the philosophy passive house"living from its internal resources (recycling water, heating fresh air due to waste, etc.), is extremely popular in Europe. We are about twenty years behind here, if not forever.
How to interest domestic developers in such construction? The solution suggests itself: the project must have economic feasibility.
Where can there be benefit here? - Leonid Zhuravel asks a rhetorical question and answers himself: - She is concluding so-called life cycle contracts. That is, the house must be maintained by the organization that built it, and throughout the life of the building. In this case, the developer will be able to receive a very substantial income precisely in the process of operating energy-efficient housing stock.
In addition, within the bowels of “Business Russia” (where the introduction of energy efficient standards is considered one of their priorities) proposals are being prepared on benefits and preferences that will be received by those who decide to undertake energy efficient construction. Note that these are long-awaited innovations.
It turns out that everything is not so expensive
Today, and this is a fact, the deciding factor when buying a home is the question of price. Affordable economy-class housing is in demand. The market quickly got its bearings and offers primarily the cheap segment of real estate. It would seem, what kind of energy efficiency can we talk about here? But it turns out that affordable housing also deserves resource-saving technologies. Another thing is that financial investments (and, of course, the return on them) must be carefully calculated.
The same Leonid Zhuravel spoke about his experience in constructing an energy-efficient building:
The company I work for built such a house because we ourselves wanted to check whether the costs of such construction were really so prohibitive. We built a 17-storey house, with one entrance, round in shape: this is what the designers advised us - they say that a round house is more insulated and makes maximum use of the sun's energy. After completion of construction the building showed good characteristics: it consumed half as much heat. But the most important surprise was waiting for us ahead. When we calculated all the costs, it turned out that we only spent 7% more funds compared to building a conventional house.
Leonid Zhuravel is confident: if the developer understands that during the operation of the building he will receive back in full the money that he “reinvested” in construction, then he will more easily decide to build energy-efficient housing.
The lion's share of heat leaks through the walls
If builders alone take up the solution to the energy efficiency problem, this will lead to nothing, says the director of the Belarusian state enterprise"Institute of Housing - NIPTIS named after. S.S. Aptaeva" Vladimir Pilipenko. - A strong-willed decision of the state is needed here.
In Belarus they have taken the problem of energy efficiency seriously. Suffice it to say that in this fraternal republic, 35% of all generated energy is spent on heating housing and social and cultural facilities. Therefore, issues of resource conservation for our Western neighbors are not an empty phrase.
Currently, about 70% of heat loss occurs through the building envelope, the rest is lost through ventilation. In theory, it would be nice to collect all this energy and reuse it. How to do it? Firstly, by reducing heat loss through the building envelope. Through wastewater recycling. By reducing heat loss through window blocks. And finally, through a forced supply and exhaust ventilation device (recuperation).
In modern buildings, these measures can reduce energy consumption by half.
We need recovery systems for high-rise buildings
An important problem in an energy-efficient home is ventilation. After all, such a house is a little like a thermos, sealed on all sides, protected by insulation and double-chamber plastic windows. And such “clogging” can lead to catastrophic health consequences.
How not to let out the heat that is so carefully preserved through the window? Nothing better than recovery has yet been invented here. Recuperation is a technology in which exhaust air leaving the apartment warms fresh air coming from the street.
It must be said that this technology is not simple. In addition, unfortunately, we do not have domestic capacities for the production of such equipment. However, Belarus produces recuperators, so for now we buy them there.
The issue is so serious that not long ago a Recovery Committee was even created in Russia, specifically dealing with the entire range of issues related to the implementation of this technology. Within the committee, development of a domestic version of recuperators is underway.
Without recovery, energy efficiency cannot be achieved, Leonid Zhuravel is convinced. - Moreover, we must try to develop an option for mass construction. We have such systems for cottages, but they have not yet been invented for high-rise buildings.
By 2020, heat losses should be reduced by 40%
Not long ago, the Ministry of Construction of the Russian Federation signed an order on energy consumption standards. The building must consume 150 kW/h per 1 sq. m area. According to the 261st Law on Improving the Energy Efficiency of Buildings, a gradual reduction in the consumption of energy resources is provided. According to the plan, such a reduction should take place in three stages: in the next two years - by 15%, in three to four years - by 30% and by 2020 - by 40%.
What prevents the intended dynamics from being realized? Firstly, the lack of energy-efficient equipment of domestic production, and secondly, high costs for utility networks with energy-efficient characteristics.
At the Mosstroy Research Institute, for example, they believe that we need to focus more on improving energy efficiency utility networks, and not on the insulation of enclosing structures. There are other ideas.
In a word, the ice seems to have broken. There are many proposals for energy efficiency today, and from the very beginning different sides- from scientists, builders, officials. All that remains is to summarize all the most valuable things. And forward to the barricades of energy efficiency and resource saving! Before it's completely too late...
Elena MATSEIKO
Last time we talked about , which is used for insulation. Today we’ll talk about energy-saving technologies for a private home. First of all, you need to understand that all the measures described below must be preceded by high-quality and comprehensive insulation, and only then energy savings, energy-efficient heating and ventilation.
Home energy efficiency classes
Energy efficiency classes of buildings.
Energy-saving technologies for a private home increase the efficiency of energy use in all its variations. The more energy is used economically, the higher the energy efficiency class of the house. These same classes are defined by the building codes and regulations of SNIP 03/23/2003. Table No. 3 determines that:
- new buildings and renovated buildings are assigned classes A, B (B+, B++), C;
- buildings that are already in use are assigned classes D and E.
Each house energy efficiency class has a maximum deviation of the actual thermal energy consumption for heating from the standard:
- class A – 51 kJ/(m*C per day) or more below the norm;
- class B – from 10 to 50 kJ/(m*C per day) below normal;
- class C – the gap between an excess of 5 kJ/(m*C per day) and 9 kJ/(m*C per day) below the norm;
- class D – from 6 to 75 kJ/(m*C per day) above normal;
- class E – above the norm by more than 76 kJ/(m*C per day).
Standards for specific heat energy consumption are set taking into account the type of building (housing, public place, clinic or school, administrative building) and number of storeys.
If you notice, SNIP says that carrying out insulation or modernization measures affect the energy efficiency class. For example, if you , then heat loss will become significantly less. IN panel houses sometimes it is enough to simply seal the cracks using one of the methods to make it much warmer. In addition to external and internal insulation walls, floors and ceilings, heat loss can be reduced by installing modern plastic windows. Their thermal conductivity depends on the thickness of the profile, the number of glass unit chambers, the presence of spray on the glass and gas in the buffer air zones.
It is more than possible to create an energy-saving house with your own hands; it is enough to cut off wasteful energy consumption step by step. The concept of such housing is to save on electricity, heating (taking into account the fact that insulation has already been carried out) and air circulation. With an integrated approach, the results will not keep you waiting, and you will have to pay much less bills.
Saving electricity
LED lamps are the most economical in their cohort.
Let's start with the simplest and most obvious things - saving electricity. The first and main device that deserves attention is a two-tariff electric meter, which separately counts day and night energy. The cost per kilowatt of electricity from 11 p.m. to 7 a.m. is four times lower than during the day. Naturally, the meter is not an energy-saving device for the home, but it saves a lot of money, and this is probably the main motivation.
Real measures to reduce kilowatts used:
- electrical appliances with energy saving classes A+ and A++;
- lighting with LEDs or fluorescent lamps.
It's not much, it's true, but that's all that can be achieved from electrical appliances. All other measures relate to the rational use of energy. For example, you can wash in cold water. Nowadays there are such powders that boiling in the machine is used only when descaling it. By the way, in cold water the scale does not settle so much on the parts of the washing machine. It is also useful to install motion sensors in common corridor, on the landing, in the courtyard of a private house, in other words, where constant lighting is not needed.
Energy efficient heating
The operating principle of a heat pump.
It is impossible to consider energy saving in a private home without heating, because this can actually save money. Heating systems differ according to the type of energy carrier:
- gas;
- electrical;
- solid fuel;
- liquid fuel;
- heat pumps;
- solar systems.
Everything is simple with gas, it’s good, use it and enjoy life. Now this is the most advantageous method heating, which does not require large financial investments. Electric boilers They are not economical; the amount of energy they consume is the amount they produce. The only option will reduce costs - this is a two-tariff meter and a heat accumulator. The boiler operates at night at a cheap rate and charges the heat storage tank. During the day, the boiler operates only when absolutely necessary. These are the energy saving elements of a heated house electric boiler, are over.
and stoves already provide more options for saving. Almost all modern models operate on the principle of afterburning pyrolysis gases, as a result of which the efficiency increases to 85%, which is not at all bad for such units. Pyrolysis energy-saving devices for the home using solid fuel work differently than conventional units:
The coolant circulates through the tubes in the solar system.
- the fuel in them does not burn, but smolders;
- the energy carrier decays from top to bottom;
- a relatively low temperature is maintained in the firebox (about 450 degrees) and an oxygen deficiency is artificially created. Under these conditions, the pyrolysis reaction begins - the release of wood gases;
- pyrolysis gas rises into the second chamber, where it is enriched with oxygen, as a result of which it ignites and releases thermal energy. Secondary combustion occurs.
It is the presence of a second afterburning chamber that is a necessary condition so that gas does not escape into the pipe. With this approach, the energy efficiency of residential buildings naturally increases. About We have already said that their effectiveness depends only on the quality of the equipment, the burner in particular.
Heat pumps are systems that use the energy of the elements (earth, water and wind). They work on the principle regular refrigerator, only in the opposite direction.
Heating a house is generally free, but you need an initial investment, and quite a large one at that. Such energy saving systems for the home pay for themselves over 30 years. Heat pumps are not suitable for high-temperature heating systems, since they heat the coolant to 35–40 degrees, which is quite enough for low-temperature “warm floor” systems.
Solar systems look similar to solar panels, but they work a little differently. Regular solar battery collects the energy of the sun and converts it into electrical energy, and solar systems heat the coolant. There are seasonal and year-round solar systems; they are effective only where there is a lot of sun. A mandatory element for heating a house using solar systems is a buffer tank (heat accumulator). About We have already talked about it in one of the previous articles.
Energy efficient ventilation
Operating principle of an air recuperator.
Fresh indoor air is a must. Few people think about this, and when a headache, pathological fatigue, or skin problems appear, everything is attributed to the environment and stress, and the thought does not even arise that the room is simply not ventilated enough. It would seem that everything is simple, you need to open the window, and that’s all. But here a problem arises - heat loss. It turns out that savings and energy-saving technologies are down the drain, everything flies out the window.
The principles of an energy-efficient house do not allow for conventional ventilation; ventilation must also be energy efficient. For this purpose, air recuperators are installed. These are devices through which air circulates between the room and the street, while the exhaust air gives off its heat to the incoming air. Heated fresh air, which contains a lot of oxygen, enters the house. Heat exchange between flows occurs in a special block; its configuration can be different.
Disadvantages of the recuperator:
- Energy consumption;
- fan noise;
- not all models are effective.
The advantages are obvious - there is a constant flow of fresh air, there is no draft across the floor, and heat loss is minimized.
How in demand are energy saving technologies?
Which way are we going: saving money or saving the planet?
First, let's summarize. Regarding electrical energy, energy saving is possible when using electrical appliances of class A+ and A++, fluorescent lamps and LEDs. The usual savings have also not been canceled. Energy-saving heating is possible through pyrolysis boilers, solar systems and heat pumps. Recuperators are installed to circulate air without heat loss.
A set of measures to create an energy-saving house with your own hands costs a pretty penny, but pays off for a very long time (30-50 years). It cannot be said that everyone is striving to save the planet’s energy in order to preserve it for future generations. No, this is a banal desire to save money.
For most, there is no reason to invest a lot at once and start saving after half a century.
This explains the unpopularity energy saving houses. We don’t live in Japan, where there are no resources at all; our country is rich in this regard. People are not used to saving resources, but they know how to count their money. Therefore, simple energy-saving technologies that show results in a short time are more popular. For example, screw in an energy-saving light bulb, go broke on a pyrolysis boiler, or, in extreme cases, a solar battery (one). It’s better not to think about solar systems and heat pumps – they are too much for the middle class.
It is difficult to correlate the energy consumption levels of Europe, heated by the Gulf Stream, with Russian Siberia and the Arctic, heated in winter only by the northern lights.
To dot the I's, it would be a good idea to first understand the terminology. “Energy efficient house” is interpreted quite broadly in various publications and, therefore, not always correctly. Fundamental discrepancies in the names and levels of energy saving. Fluctuations in the number of percentages, moreover, they are taken from the existing energy consumption, and it differs significantly between countries, and are not taken into account at all climatic features. As a rule, the “current level of energy consumption” is taken as the starting point, but in Europe, since the seventies of the last century, building codes energy efficiency. We have just started this path, which is confirmed by the dates that began to operate on December 27, 2010 state program Russian Federation“Energy saving and increasing energy efficiency for the period until 2020”, which, in turn, details the articles of the law “On energy saving and increasing energy efficiency” dated October 27, 2009.
But let’s look at the gradations of low energy consumption houses.
In Western Europe, there are several gradations for determining the energy efficiency of houses, and since there are no such ones in our country yet, we will focus on foreign experience.
A smart home involves organizing the operation of all systems based on computer control, aimed at ensuring the most comfortable living for a person. Energy savings in such a system may not be taken into account. The concept appeared in the early seventies of the last century. But soon the energy crisis of 1974 made us think about energy efficiency, and as a result, the concept of a low-energy house was formed in parallel.
The concept provides for a fully and effectively insulated house with two or three chamber glazing. To reduce energy losses, it must be equipped with an air recuperator and inlet vestibules.
Over time, the types of energy efficient houses have been divided into three types:
Low energy consumption house or energy efficient house. Provides for insulation work (at least 15-20 cm of insulation on the walls, 25-30 cm in the attic), optimization of heating, ventilation, etc. For heating, it can use a daily energy storage device (heat accumulator). Must be equipped with a ventilated air recuperator. Saves from 30 to 50% of energy losses.
Passive house - with zero or insignificant, up to 10% of normal energy consumption. A layer of insulation of at least 25-30 cm in the walls and from 50 cm in attic floors. It uses the energy of the sun and for this purpose the windows are oriented to the south. In addition to network energy, energy supply involves one or more alternative sources of electricity (wind generators, solar panels). Among the required attributes, we can note a thermal collector, a daily energy storage device, a recuperator for heating or cooling the incoming air, and the heat of the earth is often used to preheat the ventilation air in winter. In summer, the same outside air in the ground is pre-cooled.
An active house - with a positive electrical balance. With a thick, at least 40 cm layer of insulation, equipped with all systems that utilize and recycle thermal energy, due to which there is almost no external energy loss. Equipped with multiple sources of production, renewable alternative energy. Excess electricity can be used to power outbuildings or sold to the general energy system. Technical requirements the same as for passive and smart home. Those. The energy received from the network, but mainly from its own sources, is used wisely with the help of intelligent control. The heating system provides a seasonal energy storage device that heats the house almost without the use of external energy resources during the heating season.
Efficiency is an economic concept that considers obtaining a certain result with minimal costs.
Energy efficiency - the encyclopedia interprets as achieving an economically justified rational use of energy resources, based on the latest achievements of technology and technology. This does not mean cutting back or depriving something. The set goal of achieving maximum energy efficiency at home is achieved primarily by reducing heat loss, more rational use of thermal energy in all energy processes without deteriorating the final result.
Of course, well-thought-out and executed thermal insulation of a structure, with minimal cold bridges, is one of the main elements, but far from the only one. A truly energy efficient home begins at the design stage and laying the foundation, which is already initial stage construction is well insulated and waterproofed. There are no small details in such a house; every element in the architectural appearance is thought out, from the size of the house, its shape, the number of protruding elements, glazing and orientation to the sun.
Special care, selection of high-quality and durable insulation for the home. The minimum requirements for the insulation layer of walls and ceilings of low-energy houses start from 15-20 centimeters. The insulation materials themselves for walls, foundations, heating appliances and pipes differ in the physical, mechanical and chemical properties. For example, it is better to insulate foundations with extruded polystyrene foam, which has high mechanical strength and almost zero hygroscopicity. The disadvantages of this insulation include a high fire hazard (toxicity of combustion products), sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation (must be protected from exposure to sunlight). But what kind of fire hazard can the high flammability of completely buried insulation pose?
Penoizol is good as insulation for walls and ceilings wooden houses and stone houses built from “breathing” materials - brick, expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, aerated concrete, wood concrete, etc. Having a microporous structure and insecticidal properties, it actively drains and disinfects wooden structures, prevents the formation of condensation and, as a consequence, the development of mold on stone walls. In addition, it is durable, cheap and fireproof. However, there are many insulation materials, each of them has its own characteristics and properties and must be used according to their intended purpose.
Along with very good thermal insulation and sealing, the mandatory attributes of an energy-efficient house are a well-thought-out ventilation system (in old houses it accounts for up to a third of energy losses). An energy-efficient house, by definition, cannot heat the street warm air, discharged by open vents. The recuperator will solve the problem of heating fresh incoming air with a counter flow removed from the room. The simplest heat exchanger will solve the problem of preheating incoming water by recycling waste heat. To heat an energy-efficient house, it is necessary to use solar energy, and for this, the building is oriented with most of the windows to the south. The glazing is two- or three-chamber, glass with a special film coating that transmits the solar spectrum and reflects infrared radiation.
One of the most important elements of an energy-efficient home is heating. It can be main gas, electric, use the energy of the earth, wind or sun, but it must be associated with an energy storage device to relieve peak loads. For example, in the area the nightly tariff for electricity is with significant discounts, the basis of heating can be an electric boiler with a water tank of several tons of water. Water heated at night will perfectly cope with heating the house during the day. An alternative to water energy storage can be a massive concrete screed on the floor. It will retain enough energy to maintain a comfortable daytime temperature in the room.
Elements of intelligence.
Any constructive and high-tech tricks will not create comfort for residents without equipment that regulates energy processes in the house according to given algorithms. For example, at night, to create a more comfortable feeling, the temperature in the house must be lowered and the ventilation reduced.
A good energy saving technique is to use two temperature conditions in the house. Normal and reduced to the minimum safe level. During the period when there are no residents in the house, it is also better to reduce ventilation.
Intelligent equipment will monitor and reduce energy consumption to a minimum, rationally regulating the operation of household appliances.
Construction of an energy-efficient house will increase its cost by 7-15%, but reduced energy consumption even with minimal equipment will be up to 50%, which will provide many times greater savings during operation.
Good luck to you in the tireless struggle for energy efficiency at home, and therefore comfort and coziness in it.
A project for an energy-saving house was implemented in Chekhov, Moscow Region.
The house is for sale. Priceenergy saving house is 7,500,000 rubles. The house is located within the city of Chekhov, a 20-minute walk from the center, 15 minutes from the forest, 250 meters from Pyaterochka and public transport stops. Nearby there are schools, kindergartens, a sports complex, a plot of 5 acres, in the house:
4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen-living room with bay window area, second living room with bay window area on the second floor, storage room under the stairs, autonomous sewerage"Topol" connected to the drainage system for drainage process water, a water well, a septic tank where all the equipment is installed, electricity connected underground to the house, a water outlet for summer use, a water outlet for the bathhouse.
The house has a toilet, a sink, and the sewage system is already working. There is a place for a bathhouse, 2 parking spaces, paths, fir trees, pine trees, fruit trees, completed landscape work, summer veranda, place for a fireplace, insulated 5-chamber double-glazed windows, 3-chamber double-glazed windows. The inside of the house is plastered to look like a lighthouse, 3 layers of putty are applied, roof insulation is 20 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam), floor insulation is 10 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam for floors).
Detailed description of an energy-saving house:
The house is made of cellular concrete (aerated concrete), blocks 375 mm wide with a density of D 500, this is one of the best materials for the construction of energy-saving houses. The topic of energy-saving technologies is very broad, so we will dwell a little on the main points and directly tell you about our home.
Last time, construction of energy-saving houses is gaining great popularity in Russia. This is understandable; the times of useless waste of energy, resources and time are passing. Buy an energy-efficient house today it is quite simple, as more and more relevant objects have begun to enter the market. At construction of energy-saving houses , the main emphasis is on good insulation of the house and reducing heat losses to a minimum, as well as accumulating energy in the house from external sources energy.
Average statistical indicators of energy consumption in everyday life:
Lighting 2-3%
Cooking 4-6%
Other household appliances (Refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 6%
Water heating 12%
Heating 73-76%
Of course, these indicators are average and different for everyone, but you can’t argue with the fact that heating takes up the bulk of energy consumed in everyday life.
There is an opinion that houses built using energy-saving technologies are limited in design solutions. This opinion is very dubious and in reality has practically no effect on the exterior of the house, since there are no special restrictions on structural forms, the main condition is high-quality insulation of the house in all possible ways structural elements(walls, roof, floors, windows, doors, ventilation, cold bridges, etc.).
In addition to heat conservation, energy-saving houses pay attention to the accumulation and use of solar energy, wind energy and other possible options.
We tried to implement the project in a modern classical style with elements of Provence.
The main goal in building an energy-saving house was:
1) Construction of a house with high energy-saving indicators using modern, environmentally friendly materials of high quality.
2) Compliance with all necessary standards, deadlines and requirements for the construction of these structures.
3) The use of materials in the construction of a house that allow the house to “breathe” and maintain the correct microclimate.
4) Convenient zoning and space planning while maintaining the functionality of the entire space. There are no non-functional areas in the house.
5) The area of the house was calculated for the comfortable living of a family from 2-3 (with perspective) to 5-6 people, without the construction of “empty” areas, which in reality are practically not used and are a lifelong liability for which you have to pay for your whole life, just like that.
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6) Selecting a site within the city, with a convenient location, developed infrastructure, transport accessibility (but not closer than 200 meters to the road).
7) Selection of a site with the possibility of carrying out all necessary communications.
8) Possibility of registration in the future.
9) A plot that allows you to allocate a parking space for two cars.
10) Use modern technologies heating (economically profitable and easy to use).
The house was built according to the project. Most of the work was completed with a quality margin above the norm.
Stages of building an energy-saving house:
1 . Foundation in an energy-efficient house.
When buying an energy-efficient home, this is the first thing you should pay attention to. Special attention so that in the future we will not be surprised by surprises in the form of cracks, etc.
The foundation is the foundation of the house, and we approached it thoroughly. When choosing a foundation, preference was given to a strip-pile foundation. This is due to the reliability of the design and durability. The price of the foundation is significant, but it is worth it.
The strip-pile foundation consists of metal piles with a diameter of 108 mm, with blades of 350 mm, twisted to a depth of 2 meters (below the freezing depth in the Moscow Region 1.7 m).
The choice of the company that sells and installs the piles was thorough (since the piles must be made of very high quality, for a long service life, have good processing and all the necessary protective layers. The seams must be factory-made and without damage). From above, the piles are cut to level and the cavity is necessarily filled with high-quality concrete.
Next, the foundation for the strip foundation is prepared (soil removal and installation sand cushion). All piles are covered with a reinforcement frame made of 16 pieces of reinforcement according to the design (tying the structure together to create a strong, solid foundation for the house).
When the concrete set and dried, high-quality waterproofing was installed on top. It lay down neatly, since the surface of the strip foundation was leveled under the lighthouse. Before pouring the foundation, everything necessary communications were brought into the house to the necessary places.
2. Installation of slabs on the 1st floor in an energy-saving house.
Next, we installed slabs (PNO - lightweight). They can withstand the same load as slabs with a thickness of 22 cm - 800 kg.m.sq. The choice of PNO slabs is determined so as not to place unnecessary load on the foundation. The slabs were secured to the foundation and the installation of cellular concrete began.
3. Installation of load-bearing walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house.
As mentioned above, for an energy-saving house, load-bearing wall blocks were chosen with a width of 375 mm and grade D 500. There are many reasons for choosing cellular concrete as the main material for building a house:
1. It is modern and quality material having all the necessary environmental standards.
2. Excellent energy-saving properties, thanks to the huge number of small pores in the material filled with air. And as we know, air is the best insulating material. The thermal insulation and isotropic properties of cellular concrete are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. In the cold season, the house keeps warm, and in summer cool.
3. The material has excellent geometry, is very convenient to use, can be easily processed, cut, etc. (usually from a large manufacturer producing high-quality products, real differences in geometry are up to 2 mm). Due to the possibility of easy processing of the material, it can be given any interesting design shapes.
4. Cellular concrete “breathes,” which is very important for creating the right microclimate in the house. This is highly valued in Europe and other developed countries.
In practice, the house was tested: 2 people spent the night in a small room on the 1st floor, the window and door did not open during the night, in the morning there was no shortage of air due to slow air exchange and removal carbon dioxide. Lack of air is felt in houses with highly airtight walls. Such houses should usually have good ventilation.
5. The material is durable, does not require any maintenance over time, does not lose its properties, does not age, does not rot, does not burn.
6. Has virtually no shrinkage.
7. Very convenient for laying communications, electrical, etc.
8. The material is non-flammable and has high fire resistance even with small wall thicknesses.
9. High strength with low weight.
10. Good sound insulation performance.
11. Thanks to the precise geometry, the masonry joint is actually 1-2 mm, which eliminates heat loss through the joints and reduces the consumption of masonry mortar. The blocks are laid using an adhesive composition.
If you make a seam from 5 to 10 mm or more in brick wall or a wall made of 15-20 mm blocks, then the total area of masonry joints can range from 15 - 30% of the wall surface. And masonry mixture energy saving indicators are not high, so such structures must be additionally insulated.
12. Using this material, you can avoid cold bridges throughout the entire house if you follow the construction technology correctly. (This will make it possible to avoid condensation on the internal surfaces of the house during the cold season).
13. Thanks to proven construction technology and the availability the necessary tool, the speed of construction of structures is very high.
14. Convenient for fastening on all wall surfaces.
15. No need additional insulation walls (And this is very significant).
Construction of the walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house:
When erecting walls, window openings must be strengthened. To do this, in the places of window openings in front of the last row of blocks, reinforcement is installed in 2 rows, so that it extends beyond the edge of the window opening by at least 500 mm in both directions. This prevents cracks from forming under window openings.
4. The first armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the installation of the last row of blocks on the first floor, we assembled the formwork for the reinforced aerated concrete belt. An armored belt is required in houses made of aerated concrete, and it must be continuous around the entire perimeter of the house. This design will protect the house from pushing forces.
Many people underestimate its necessity when taking independent decisions about its feasibility. Such a decision can only be made by an experienced architect who knows the specifics of working with aerated concrete.
The filling of the armored belt, the concrete structure, will be separated from external temperatures by a 10 cm cellular concrete partition, and this is not enough for us, so we installed extruded polystyrene foam between the armored belt and the external aerated concrete to insulate the structure.
5. Installation of floor slabs on the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Anchors made of 16-diameter reinforcement were secured in the reinforced belt for attaching floor slabs to them. All floor slabs were installed according to the design. The slabs were secured through the reinforcement located in the slabs with a 10 cm welding seam, with 16 reinforcement coming out of the reinforcement belt.
6. Construction of the walls of the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Next we started building the walls of the second floor. The peculiarity of the second floor in our house is that it is full and at the lowest junction of the walls and the roof the distance from the floor to the roof is 2.25 meters.
As a rule, the majority attic floors have 50-90% of full height, where you can move comfortably.
7. Second armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the last row of the second floor, formwork is prepared from aerated concrete and insulation is installed on the inside of the outer partition made of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the reinforced belt. Additionally, studs are installed to secure the Mauerlat. According to the project, the studs were calculated to be 12 mm and the fixation should be in an armored belt.
This work was carried out with a margin above the norm: the studs were set to 18 in diameter, the fixation is in the reinforced belt and an additional 500 mm down two rows into the aerated concrete. All pins are about 1 meter long. The work was carried out to ensure a large margin of stability under strong wind loads.
The armored belt is poured from concrete grade M 300.
Both armored belts pass over the window openings and are made in such a way that all concrete structures are hidden in aerated concrete, both on the front side and on the inside and are insulated with polystyrene foam. This is done in order to avoid cold bridges and condensation.
8. Installation of a Mauerlat in an Energy Saving House.
After the reinforced belt concrete had dried and gained its strength, we moved on to installing the Mauerlat. All the boards used to build the house were carefully treated in 2 layers with neomid and dried for about 2 months. Before installing the Mauerlat, high-quality waterproofing was installed on the armored belt.
For the Mauerlat we used 150 x 150 mm timber. Holes were drilled for the studs, then the power plate was installed and the nuts and washers were tightened. All fasteners used for the roof must be galvanized, which is rust-resistant.
9. Construction of gables in an energy-saving house.
While the armored belt dries out and gains strength, pediments are erected on both sides. Here we need precise calculations for the correct and symmetrical construction of the pediments. The entire geometry of the roof depends on this.
The construction of the gables was carried out using precisely set templates. This work requires special effort, since almost all blocks must be trimmed, the angle and the required slope must be maintained. There is a ventilation hole on each gable for air circulation in the attic, 300 x 300 mm.
10. Installation of a roof frame in an energy-efficient house.
After completing the gables we moved on to installation rafter system roofs. A board 200 X 50 X 6000 mm was used as a rafter. We deliberately used a board height of 200 mm to provide the high-quality insulation we needed.
The rafter system is the basis of the roof; its entire basis will depend on the accuracy of this work. It is necessary to accurately make all calculations and check all diagonals. First, the rafters are installed on two different sides of the gables, then the entire roof frame is assembled along the cords.
Fastening to the Mauerlat is made using a special cutout in the rafters and two galvanized corners. The corners according to the project are 60 X 60 X 2 mm. We used a margin of 100 X 100 X 3 mm. For fixation, yellow self-tapping screws and 12 mm studs with washers and nuts were used. The rafters were positioned relative to each other in 60 cm increments to strengthen the roof structure.
At the same time, the roof ridge was being installed. For the ridge, a beam of 100 X 200 X 6000 mm was used.
11. Installation of waterproofing, counter-lattice and sheathing in an energy-efficient house.
To install the correct “pie” of our roof, you need to do everything necessary work. To begin with, we choose high-quality waterproofing that meets all the necessary requirements. We chose the Corotop Classic membrane. She's different excellent characteristics and is capable of protecting the house from precipitation for up to six months, if metal tiles have not yet been installed. Tested in practice: there have been several heavy rains, the result is not a single drop of water was allowed inside.
It does not let moisture in (condensation from metal tiles, humid air, etc.), but is able to remove excess moisture out, this is similar to the structure of the skin. The membrane is installed with an overlap; for this purpose, the membrane has the necessary drawings. Overlapping areas are additionally taped with special roofing double-sided tape.
Next, we install a counter-lattice for the required ventilation gap, a board 50 X 50 mm. After this, we proceed to install the sheathing. For the lathing, a board 25 X 100 X 6000 mm was used. Here, too, accurate calculations are required, checking diagonals, calculating the pitch for metal tiles, etc. The counter-lattice and sheathing are fastened with galvanized 100 mm rough nails.
12. Installation of metal tiles, snow guards, ventilation outlets and drainage system in an energy-saving house.
The choice of metal tiles was approached just as thoroughly. We chose it in a large specialized store "Unikma". There is no place for savings and experiments here :). The choice fell on the Finnish concern Ruukki, color PURAL MATT. The service life of this metal tile is 50 years. The sheets were made to order, in one piece.
At the same time, in the required places, we cut in two Vilpe ventilation outlets of 125 mm each and one sewer outlet of 110 mm. We secured the metal tiles according to the fastening diagram for reliable fixation and protection from gusts of wind.
We chose a metal gutter system because it is of higher quality, does not fade in the sun, and is stronger. Installation of snow guards is a necessary safety measure. Moreover, it is very important to install a high-quality one, secure it well.
Snow loads can be very significant, and in addition to the huge amount of snow and ice falling from the roof, snow retainers can be added to them.
13. Installation of windows, window sills and front door in an energy-efficient house.
If we building an energy-saving house , which means the windows must be appropriate. If you decide buy an energy-efficient house , pay special attention to window structures.
The window profile chosen is very warm, 5-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. The glass we chose was also energy-saving. To effectively insulate double-glazed windows, on the façade side, the window openings were insulated with aerated concrete.
On both sides, the windows have decorative lamination that matches the style of the house. Window sills have the same lamination.
The entrance door was ordered insulated with polystyrene foam.
14. Facade plaster and putty in an energy-saving house.
To ensure high-quality protection of the facade of the house, it is necessary to carry out a series of sequential works. It is important, for external work, to use materials intended specifically for the facade. First, the surface is cleaned and primed. Next, we fill all the small chips with facade plaster. After this, apply with a spatula a thin layer of 2 - 3 mm facade plaster in 2 layers.
We do without standard plaster due to the fact that the walls were built level and have a very flat surface. Next, we prime again and apply façade putty in 2 layers. The work was carried out before the first frost with the addition of anti-frost additives. With the onset of the first negative temperatures, work was postponed until spring.
15. Construction of partitions in an energy-saving house.
During the winter, work began inside the house. For the partitions, cellular concrete 150 mm thick, grade D600, was used. We lay waterproofing under the base of the wall and lay the first row level on the mortar. Next, installation proceeds to the adhesive mixture.
Partitions must be connected to load-bearing walls with special connections. In the upper part of the junction of the partitions with the ceiling, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint of up to 2 cm, it must be foamed.
Naturally, the partitions must be built with high quality, so that later you do not have to spend a lot on plaster mixture and additional work. We got an average thickness of internal plaster of 6 - 10 mm. The floors, after installing the partitions, were filled with self-leveling flooring (preparing the surface for laying polystyrene foam).
16. Installing insulation in an energy-efficient house.
The correct choice of insulation and quality installation, one of the most important stages in the construction of an energy-saving house. Before buy an energy-efficient house , this factor is worth paying attention to the most. The choice of polystyrene foam was not accidental.
Firstly, expanded polystyrene retains heat better than other insulation based on glass wool, etc.
Secondly, there is no dangerous dust that causes allergies (used in fiberglass-based insulation, etc.). People often disassemble such roof insulation because over time they absorb moisture and lose their efficiency and volume. They have the advantage of not being flammable.
For insulation, we chose KNAUF polystyrene foam, which does not burn, but only melts. This has been tested experimentally. And since we are talking about the resistance of materials to fire, we can assume that if there is a fire in the house and the surfaces of the walls, furniture, coverings, and wooden roof structures catch fire, then no insulation will save you, whether it is susceptible to burning or not.
To do this, it is better to provide the necessary security measures. Of course, we do not consider cheap polystyrene foam options, the composition of which may be unsuitable for use in the home. Only high-quality material, with the necessary certificates and proven over the years.
Yes, polystyrene foam is more labor-intensive to install, but the result is worth it. The thickness of the insulation on the roof is 20 cm wide everywhere. The installation was carried out in 4 layers, 5 cm each.
After installing each layer, all the cracks were thoroughly foamed and so on for all 4 layers. Thanks to this, very high-quality insulation was obtained.
From below, the insulation is insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. We have a Corotop Classic water vapor barrier membrane, and that’s what we use. From above, in attic, above the insulation, moisture-resistant OSB boards are installed to allow movement along the surface and protect the polystyrene foam.
The cracks, after installing OSB boards, are also foamed. Ventilation communications are laid, which are also well insulated.
To insulate the Mauerlat area, it is necessary to make inserts from extruded polystyrene foam on the front side and properly foam all the cracks. On the inside there is a partition made of cellular concrete.
On the floor of the first floor, Knauf polystyrene foam for flooring is laid.
It is more dense and you can easily move on it without damaging it. Layer thickness 10 cm.
Thus, we insulated the entire house. The largest layer of insulation is concentrated on the roof, because through it the most heat is lost. The house is designed in such a way as to minimize heat loss. That's why our house is called energy-saving.
This factor is given great importance. This is due to the fact that the largest expense in maintaining a house and other real estate is usually heating. A house is built once, but will have to be maintained for the rest of its life.
We conducted an experiment:
The temperature in the house was + 10 degrees, outside the temperature was minus 15-17 degrees. All heating devices were turned off, a day later they took measurements and the temperature was + 8 degrees. Without heating, in cold weather, an energy-saving house with an area of 120 sq.m. I lost only 2 degrees.
17. Plaster and putty interior walls in an energy-saving house.
The walls are primed and after drying, the chips are filled. Next is plastering internal surfaces layer 6-10 mm, plaster mixture for interior work based on gypsum (Rotband Knauf). Before applying the putty, it must be additionally primed and allowed to dry. The putty is made in 3 layers.
18. Application of decorative bark beetle plaster in an energy-saving house.
For decorative plaster, we chose “bark beetle” texture, 2.5 mm filler. VGT plaster has excellent protective characteristics and creates a very durable coating, while air exchange is not disrupted.
The color was chosen according to the general style. Applying such plaster requires certain skills and experience; application is carried out from edge to edge.
19. Construction of blind areas, paths and parking spaces in an energy-saving house.
For proper installation, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth about 40 cm deep. After this, the base is filled with crushed stone and compacted.
On top, add a layer of sand, which is moistened and compacted well. Next, it is necessary to install a mesh to prevent cracks and fractures. On all surfaces concrete structures, there is a slight slope to drain rainwater.
Also, the site has a drainage system that removes excess water from the site underground. The paths and blind area are 100 cm wide, not only for drainage of precipitation, but also for ease of movement along them. There is a convenient entrance for cars on the site.
For convenient location two cars, the area is concreted, while you can move freely, cars do not block the passage. It is possible to accommodate larger vehicles.
There is a concrete area for barbecue. The kebab maker is made in the same stylistic direction. To create a good drainage system and level the site, 10 cubic meters of crushed stone and 40 cubic meters of sand were used.
20. Planting a lawn on the site of an energy-saving house.
To install a lawn, it is necessary to create a fertile layer of chernozem about 10 cm. The chernozem is leveled over the site with a slight slope to drain water and comply with the general landscape of the site.
For planting, we used low-growing lawn. On the site there are also: 6 pines, 3 fir trees, 2 cherries, one plum, small raspberry bushes. For gardening, there is an area behind the house. We fundamentally do not use any chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, etc. We are firmly in favor of a healthy lifestyle and this aspect is not indifferent to us.
21. Construction summer veranda in an energy-saving house.
The summer veranda is made in a modern style, mixed with Provence, artificially aged, timber 150 X 150 mm and 100 X 100 mm. All lower parts have reliable protection. They underwent two-time treatment with neomid, then two-time treatment with bitumen mastic.
The upper parts of the veranda were treated with neomid, marilka and 2 times of yacht varnish. On the veranda, there is a table made of solid pine, 100 mm thick, in the same style, with the addition of real masculine brutality.
The house has a place for a fireplace on the ground floor in the kitchen-living room. The chimney pipe should pass through the wall behind the fireplace, under the stairs and through the wall to the street, then rises to the roof.
In such a house it is not necessary to install gas, since it retains heat very well. If the fireplace is running in winter, the energy consumption will be quite insignificant. This house was planned for the most modern system heating, infrared with adjustable temperature sensors. Infrared film is mounted under drywall.
If the house is well insulated, then the system operates only 10-15% of the time per day, which ensures low consumption. If you look into it and see the facts, then gas is necessary if the house is poorly insulated. During winter, electricity bills add up to significant amounts.
But this is not a problem either, the gas has already been piped to the neighboring houses, the pipe runs 1 meter from the fence, and can be connected if desired.
22. Buy an Energy Saving House
If you decide to buy an energy-saving house, in our opinion, the advantage is obvious: the price is the same as that of similar ones, and the maintenance is much more profitable. and this is not only in winter; in summer, air conditioning is practically not needed. One of the main tasks when building an energy-saving house was to preserve affordable price to the object. It seems to us that we have completed this task. Many believe that the price of such houses will be exorbitant, we tried to dispel these doubts and create a property in an affordable price segment.
E energy saving house price is 7,500,000 rubles, this is the price of a good one-room apartment in Moscow. :)
As a gift from our studio, we are giving free development of a design project for this house.
Sincerely, Mira-Style Design Studio.
Tel: 8 495 507 91 56
Email: [email protected]