Dreaming of female happiness, representatives of the fairer sex buy indoor flower With Greek name spathiphyllum. Outwardly, it resembles a white sail, which gives hope that achieving the goal is just around the corner. Caring for a flower for a woman's happiness should be especially meticulous so as not to spoil her destiny, according to popular belief.
How to care for spathiphyllum at home
Grow perennial can be done without complicated manipulations, especially if you follow certain rules, starting from the choice of soil and ending with the quality and watering conditions. Spathiphyllum is not fastidious daily care, so it easily takes root even in the same area as a novice “gardener”. The evergreen bush is a pleasant sight when placed in a window.
Basic parameterscaring for spathiphyllum at home– correctly selected pot size, acceptable temperature environment, sufficient humidity, harmonious placement in the room, a stream of light hits the leaves. In order for the care of spathiphyllum to be adequate, and for women’s happiness to truly bring joy and peace, it is recommended to remember the following rules of care for yourself:
- As the flower grows, it needs to be transplanted into a capacious pot, and it is advisable to do this in the spring. You can purchase special soil in the store or prepare it yourself at home. Good choice becomes clay pot, capable long time maintain the required level of humidity and provide accessible care.
- This heat-loving plant from the tropics does not tolerate cold or exposure to drafts during care. Optimal temperature regime limited to 18-23 degrees. Overheating is also harmful, since a woman’s happiness begins to rapidly fade and no longer pleases with its impeccable appearance.
- Such moisture-loving flower at natural conditions grows in swamps and rivers. The higher the ambient temperature, the more often it needs to be watered. As it gets colder, it is necessary to reduce the humidity level, and water only when the soil dries out. Underfilling during maintenance is harmful, as is overfilling.
- The placement of the flower is appropriate on north side premises, but also on a south-facing window it grows abundantly and continuously. Having chosen the most convenient place, the main thing is to avoid getting straight lines on the leaves sun rays. The heating radiator may be nearby, but when caring for the plant, it is better not to overheat, dose out portions of heat and a natural flow of color. When exposed to dry air, the plant will dry out and the tips of the leaves will turn black.
- Spathiphyllum is a shade-tolerant indoor flower. The light should be diffused, because direct rays of the sun are the real pests of natural and full flowering. If they enter in excess quantities, the plant may droop and begin to turn yellow. But the lack of lighting makes the leaves small and elongated in shape.
How to fertilize spathiphyllum at home
This flower of the aroid family needs to be sprayed and the roots must be protected in a timely manner from small and not always noticeable pests. Used for feeding once every three weeks. mineral fertilizers low concentration. Before spraying special composition and after such a session it is necessary to water the indoor flower warm water. Subject to this rulefertilizers for spathiphyllum at homeprotect against aphids, sooty fungus, spider mites, scale insects, mealybug.
How to water spathiphyllum at home
For watering, use settled or boiled water with low chlorine content. It can be acidified, and to do this, dilute a liter of warm liquid with 5 drops of vinegar and mix.Watering spathiphyllum at homeabundant in summer and moderate in the cold season. If black spots appear on the leaves, this means that the basics of watering have been disrupted, and the flower may gradually disappear at home.
Land for spathiphyllum
When caring, be especially careful about the choice of soil, otherwise the leaves will soon begin to turn yellow.Soil for spathiphyllumshould be a mixture of leaf soil, sphagnum, peat, river sand. Required to connect required quantity each ingredient, place the resulting composition in a flowerpot and only after planting the spathiphyllum, moisten it.
How to transplant spathiphyllum at home
If the flower blooms regularly, you can hold off on replanting and do it no more than once a year. When the leaves turn yellow, it is better to choose more spacious potty, transplant houseplant unscheduled. Optimal time ForSpathiphyllum transplants at home– spring, pot height – no more than 20 cm. After placing the flower in the pot, moisten it abundantly, and when leaving, put it in the shade. It will dry gradually, how long it takes is an individual question. An alternative to replanting is to renew the topsoil.
How to propagate spathiphyllum at home
There are three known methods of propagation - cuttings, dormant buds and seeds. Grown flowers look equally beautiful, but they have their own nuances. During the growing season, a young plant can bloom 8-10 months from the moment of planting. Ifpropagate spathiphyllum at homeseeds, the flowering period with proper care begins only after 3-4 years.
Spathiphyllum - diseases
If the flower is withered and the leaves continue to dry - poor care, treatment is required. Important to knowspathiphyllum diseasesand, in order to save women's happiness in time. If sooty fungus is harmful, treat the plant with soapy water. Any alcohol product applied to the leaves will help against mealybugs. If appeared spider mite, the flowers will also dry out. A soap solution is beneficial.
What to do to make spathiphyllum bloom
To reveal the secret, you need to understand the reason.For spathiphyllum to bloomwhite or red, exclude improper watering, excessive light flow, regulate the baiting process, control air humidity. Only then can a blooming flower be safely associated with approaching female happiness and called a good omen for the future. If you buy spathiphyllum, caring for it at home will not cause any trouble.
Video: caring for spathiphyllum at home
Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, becomes too heavy to lift, and cannot be painlessly replaced with soil. At this time they loosen and remove only top layer. Meanwhile, the spathiphyllum flower ages and loses its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable the plant is for you, you need to prepare a replacement for it. The procedure will not seem difficult for those who annually transplant the flower into a larger container.
Principles of propagation of spathiphyllum
The biology of the flower is such that it has no stems, and the lanceolate leaves emerge directly from the ground, from the root from dormant buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates a vagina, from which emerges the stem of a flower, wrapped in a snow-white blanket, like a diaper. This is how the curtain grows, which makes it possible to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains or ready plant with roots, or a dormant bud.
How does spathiphyllum propagate by others? by known methods? This happens:
- obtaining a plant from dormant buds of a piece of rhizome;
- obtaining a young plant from layering or cuttings;
- sowing seeds.
When propagating spathiphyllum by any vegetative way at good care it can bloom in 8-10 months. The seed method does not involve the transfer of traits mother bush, flowering occurs after 3-4 years. In this case, there is a possibility of getting completely new variety.
For vegetative propagation it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant is just starting to grow after winter holiday. However, in case of illness or for another reason, you can carefully replant the plant even during flowering.
Soil requirements or how to prepare soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves soil with slight acidity, composed of equal parts:
- garden or turf land;
- leaf humus;
- sand.
Additionally, to give a similarity to the natural composition, a total of 1 part of fine bark is added coniferous species, charcoal, ground into a fine fraction and brick or ceramic chips. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Regardless of whether to sow seeds or root cuttings, work on propagating spathiphyllum is carried out at a room temperature of at least 21 degrees.
After planting or sowing the seeds, everything possible is done to ensure rooting. To do this, create a mini-greenhouse, moisten the leaves and soil surface, create conditions for quick recovery root work.
The choice of dishes is important for the vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum. The containers should not be spacious, or several sections should be planted in them at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.
When planting, it is important to leave enough space at the top, have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom, and not deepen root collar plants.
How to plant spathiphyllum, which is cramped in a container
To do this, you need to water the plant so that it easily slides out of the old pot. Since the goal is to get the maximum number of divisions, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin, so that the roots are freed from the ground. Place the plant on the table. In this case, the parts into which the bush needs to be cut when dividing will be clearly visible.
Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave the young ones light. Sprinkle the cut areas with crushed coal and prepare the containers. Pour 2 cm of soil over the drainage and arrange the roots of the division, spreading them slightly. While holding the plant suspended, carefully add the prepared soil for spathiphyllum little by little. Shake the glass slightly and compact the soil with your fingers. Having filled the roots, water the soil to compact it, after the soil settles, add it to the neck and rock the plant to see if it sits tightly.
For the first week, you need to wet the leaves with a spray bottle and keep the plant under a hood with little ventilation. If the lump of earth dries out, moisten it a little so as not to provoke rotting of the diseased roots. A sign that the plant has taken root will be the appearance young leaf. After this, the plant is gradually freed from its shelter; fertilizing begins after 3 months at half the dose.
Propagation by divisions without roots and pieces of rhizome
In this case, the cuttings should be germinated in water and then planted as described above. The rhizomes are laid out on wet sand or peat. In this case, until the roots sprout, the litter should be constantly moist. Cover the top with film, but ventilate. As a result, the fragment will send out roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.
How does spathiphyllum propagate by seeds?
The plant is cross-pollinated and has male and female flower stalks. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. The male blooms 2-3 days earlier, the pollen disappears while it ripens. female flower. Therefore, seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom in different times. The pollinated female flower eventually turns green and becomes plump with cones that turn into peas. Seeds ripen up to six months. Their viability is low, and they must be sown immediately after harvesting.
When purchasing seeds, you should make sure that they are fresh. If the mother plant was a hybrid, then splitting of properties will be inevitable. Seedlings are grown in a closed bowl, occasionally opening it for ventilation. Shoots appear unevenly; several seedlings will appear from one pea. After germination, the plant needs to be accustomed to air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.
Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of the apartment in winter. Can be seeded into a large container for decoration office space and young flowers will create original composition, blooming at the same time.
Another way would be to grow the seedlings to 5-6 cm and plant them in separate cups, from which you can also make any composition, but later they are easier to replant.
Video about transplanting spathiphyllum
Spathiphyllum - herbaceous perennial family Araceae. Since the 19th century, the flower has been cultivated in room conditions, attracting attention with a spectacular rosette of green leaves.
Several times a year, the plant throws out long arrows of peduncles topped with small inflorescences-cobs. Each is covered with a light bract or spathe, shaped like a leaf. For this similarity, the plant received its name, literally translated from Greek meaning “bedspread” and “leaf”.
Reference! The flower has several folk names. The most common is “ Women's happiness" It is believed that spathiphyllum forms buds in anticipation of imminent profit, primarily in the size of the family, which forms the basis of female happiness.
Spathiphyllum is unpretentious. The main measures for caring for it are watering, fertilizing and replanting.
How to determine that a flower needs replanting?
To achieve decorativeness of spathiphyllum and its regular flowering impossible without a transplant, so this procedure is one of the most important components of care. The flower signals the need for it by changing appearance and vegetation.
- High density leaf rosette, resulting from the growth of new shoots or children. Over time, some of them begin to wither or dry out due to insufficient nutrition or light. The plant loses its decorative effect and needs to be replanted.
- The thickened rosette falls apart over time. Such a plant looks sloppy and needs replanting in combination with dividing the bush.
- Strong growth of roots, as evidenced by their exit beyond the pot through drain holes and dense weaving of an earthen clod. Overgrown roots need more space (new capacity) and renewal of the substrate, which has used up its nutritional potential.
- Slow growth of shoots and leaves of a plant, as well as a long (more than a year) absence of flowering are signals of trouble in the development of the plant, which replanting will help eliminate.
- Spathiphyllum purchased in a store is subject to mandatory replanting.
When to replant at home?
The most favorable period for spathiphyllum transplantation is early spring: April or March. This is the time of the beginning of the active growing season of the plant, characterized by the rapid occurrence of all processes, including rooting.
Important! Mandatory conditions for transplantation are warmth (minimum 20 °C) and absence of flowering.
How to replant spathiphyllum after purchase?
Spathiphyllum purchased in a store is not transplanted immediately, but 2-3 weeks later, after the flower has adapted to new conditions. After making sure that the plant looks healthy, it is moved to a new, slightly larger container with a complete replacement of the soil.
The need for replanting after purchase is caused by the composition and structure of the soil used to grow plants for sale.
- Spathiphyllums are grown on peat soil. The flower grows quickly, consuming all its nutrients and quickly depleting the soil, which will inevitably affect its development.
- Peat soils have a dense structure, preventing air and water from reaching the roots. Once saturated with moisture, peat retains it for a long time, provoking the development of rot on the roots of the plant.
How often should the procedure be performed?
The frequency of transplants is determined by the age of the flower:
- young (up to 3 years) specimens are replanted annually;
- adult forms - once every 3-5 years.
In what pot?
Spathiphyllum grows well in pots made from any materials. According to this criterion, the choice of container depends only on the personal preferences of the grower or his financial capabilities.
The size of the container is selected taking into account the volume of the root system of the flower and its growth characteristics. Since spathiphyllum roots grow more actively in the horizontal direction, the diameter of the pot should exceed its depth.
With each transplant, a container of slightly larger volume (1-2 cm) than the previous one is used. This is important for root development. Only after completely mastering the entire volume provided to the roots does the plant begin to actively grow leaves and bloom.
The pot must be spacious drainage compartment and drain holes.
In what soil?
Suitable for growing flowers loose soils with a neutral or slightly acidic environment. Soil that meets these requirements can be purchased at flower shop.
You can prepare the earthen mixture yourself. To do this you will need:
- 2 parts of turf land;
- 1 part leaf soil;
- 1 part sand;
- 1 part peat.
- ½ part each of ceramic chips, charcoal and bark.
Ceramic chips, coal and bark are added to give the soil air and water permeability and the required level of acidity.
All components are thoroughly mixed. The soil, regardless of how it is obtained, is disinfected. This will prevent the occurrence of diseases.
Disinfection is carried out in any available way:
- steam for 30 minutes in a water bath;
- Heat for 15-20 minutes in the oven or microwave;
- spilled with a solution of medium potassium permanganate ( pink) concentration or solution of phytosporin;
- 2 weeks before planting, to restore beneficial microflora, the soil is moistened by adding EM-1 to the water.
Properly selected and processed soil mixture will provide good development and, as a consequence, the decorativeness of spathiphyllum.
Step by step instructions
Spathiphyllum is transplanted using the transshipment method.
Reference! Transshipment is a type of transplantation that involves moving the plant into a larger container while preserving the earthen clod.
The procedure involves performing several consistent actions or steps.
Step 1. Spathiphyllum transplantation begins with preparing the plant. To do this:
- At least 30 minutes before the procedure, water the flower well. This will make it easier to remove the earthen ball from the container and avoid injury to the roots.
- The roots are examined. All suspicious (rotten, deformed) areas are removed. The sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and dried a little.
- All old leaves are removed from the plant. This will make it easier for the flower to take root.
Step 2. Filling the pot:
- Place drainage in a small (2 cm) layer at the bottom of the new container: fine expanded clay, pebbles or brick chips.
- Soil is poured over the drainage, no more than half the pot.
Step 3. Landing:
- on top of the ground, in the center, place earthen lump and fill the voids with the remaining substrate.
- The soil around the plant is slightly compacted.
- The plant is watered abundantly.
Attention! Often, after watering, the soil settles, exposing the root collar. If this happens, then the soil needs to be replenished.
If the procedure is carried out correctly, spathiphyllum will quickly grow root system.
How to plant “Women’s Happiness”
Strongly overgrown specimens of spathiphyllum are planted to obtain new plants and in order to rejuvenate the parent form.
The technology for seating is quite simple and has much in common with transplantation. As in the case of transplantation, it begins with preparing the container, substrate and the plant itself.
- A few hours before planting, the flower is watered abundantly or immersed in a container of water until the soil is completely softened.
- The earthen lump is removed from the pot. The roots are freed from the soil, washed and, after a thorough inspection, divided (cut) into parts or divisions. Each part must have at least 5 leaves and independent roots.
- The cuttings are planted in individual containers filled with fresh soil. The process of planting cuttings is similar to replanting, but it is performed with a complete replacement of the soil.
Care after transplant
The key to successful rooting is a properly organized place and care for the flower.
Organization of a mini-greenhouse and placement
Transplanted spathiphyllum needs warm and humid air.
To achieve this, the plant is given a mini-greenhouse in the form of a sealed cap constructed from any transparent, airtight material.
The flower is kept in the shade for a week after transplantation.
Then they are transferred to a brighter place, avoiding direct sunlight on the leaves.
They can cause burns and wilting of leaves.
Very small sprouts need such devices. Larger specimens can often do without a greenhouse.
Ventilation and watering
Caring for the plant after transplantation consists of ventilation and moistening.
Ventilation is carried out daily, removing the protective cap for 5-10 minutes. During the procedure, the above-ground part of the plant is sprayed with a spray bottle.
Watering spathiphyllum is carried out with boiled or well-settled water at room temperature, alternating moistening with plain water and with the addition of Kornevin. The regularity of moistening is determined by the drying of the top (0.5-1 cm) layer of soil.
After abundant watering Any water that has accumulated in the pan must be drained.
With proper care, the young plant takes root quite quickly (2-2.5 weeks). Evidence of the successful completion of this process is the growth of new leaves. When they appear, the protection is removed and the flower is cared for as an adult plant.
Attention! Full soil moisture after replanting is resumed only with the appearance of new leaves.
Possible errors
The plant will signal an incorrect transplantation by a change in appearance.
- Yellowing or wilting of leaves- clear signs of lack of moisture. When they appear, the number of sprays is increased to 2-3 times a day and the top layer of soil is lightly irrigated.
- Wilting and subsequent drying of leaves, as well as the delayed adaptation of the plant, indicate trouble in the condition of the roots - their rotting. This occurs due to improperly selected soil or waterlogging of the soil. In this state, the flower needs ambulance- replanting with a thorough inspection of the roots and complete replacement of the soil.
- It often happens that the transplanted spathiphyllum looks quite healthy, but does not grow new leaves. The reasons for this are an incorrectly selected (too spacious) pot or lack of light.
Answers to frequently asked questions
Is it possible to replant a flowering plant?
A flowering plant should not be replanted. It is better to wait until the end of flowering, especially since it is not that long: 2-3 weeks.
However, there are times when a flower needs urgent replanting: the plant is flooded, suffers from an incorrectly selected pot, or is damaged by soil pests. In these and similar cases, delay is equivalent to losing the flower. Then the risk is justified.
How to transplant a blooming spathiphyllum?
Transplant blooming spathiphyllum Best done on a cloudy or rainy day. In conditions high humidity the plant will tolerate the procedure more easily.
Before transplanting, all flower stalks, as well as old and newly emerged leaves, are cut off from flowering plants at the base.
Healthy specimens are replanted using the transshipment method, sick ones - with a complete replacement of the soil.
Why did the newly transplanted spathiphyllum drop its leaves?
This reaction is typical for a plant suffering from a lack of moisture. Water and spray the leaves of the flower.
Why do the lower leaves of transplanted spathiphyllum turn yellow?
They probably forgot to remove them before transplanting. It’s hard for the plant and it gets rid of everything unnecessary. If, after the lower ones, the young leaves also turn yellow, then this is evidence of a lack of nutrients.
Useful video
Find out more about spathiphyllum transplantation from the video below:
Bottom line
With good care, including timely and correctly transplanted, spathiphyllium will all year round delight its owners with fresh green foliage, highlighted by snow-white inflorescences.
An adult spathiphyllum is formed by old brown roots protruding from the ground and swaying rosettes.
If you pull the curtain apart, you will notice how the inside is drying out. lower leaves. This is also a sure sign that the plant. But if only the tips of the leaves turn yellow and dry, the spathiphyllum does not have enough air humidity in the room. Most likely, the plant is close to the radiator. Then you need to move it to a new place and install a humidifier in the room.
Transplanting an adult plant can be combined with propagation. Divide the spathiphyllum clump into several parts. The main thing is that each division has a strong and healthy section of rhizome.
There may be a lot of rosettes if the plant has not been replanted for a long time.
Shorten any that are too long and cut out any rotten roots.
It happens that even a young plant becomes cramped in a pot. You can simply transfer it without dividing it into a slightly larger pot. Young plant You can also divide it into parts and plant them in pots, but a few divisions in each, so that the roots quickly intertwine the earthen ball.
Planting divisions
Place drainage in a 1.5-2 cm layer at the bottom of the pot: fine expanded clay, finely crushed brick, pebbles.
The second layer, not to the very top of the pot, is the prepared substrate.
Place a division of spathiphyllum in the middle of the pot. Distribute the roots evenly.
Spathiphyllum, like many aroids, forms. They look like small tubercles, growths on the trunk. So don’t be alarmed when you see these on your spathiphyllum - this is not a disease.
When transplanting, they do not need to be deeply buried. Over time, they will reach the ground, take root and further strengthen the plant.
Cover the plant to the top with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
Slightly deepen the leg, press the soil around the trunk so that the rosette is firmly strengthened and does not swing.
After transplanting, the plant must be watered abundantly so that the soil settles. Add more soil if necessary.
Be sure to thoroughly spray the leaves with a spray bottle.
Care after transplant
After transplantation, spathiphyllum will take root faster and bloom again under conditions. For the first two weeks, to protect against moisture evaporation, it is advisable to keep the plant under a polyethylene cap (wrapping it over the head), water it as the top layer of soil dries, and frequently spray the leaves. If the leaves wilt after replanting, spray the plant several times a day.
We wish you good luck with !
Indoor flowers live constantly in conditions that are only vaguely reminiscent of natural ones. Therefore, the decorativeness of a plant depends on many factors. Spathiphyllum transplantation is a mandatory procedure in captivity. The root system requires nutrition, and in a cramped container it is light infertile soil unable to feed the plant long period. When transplanting a plant and propagating it, certain rules must be followed.
Conditions for caring for and transplanting spathiphyllum at home
The flower should sit in a pot in cramped conditions. As long as the roots do not touch the walls of the vessel, all the power of the plant is directed to their growth, flowering is delayed, and the plant fattens. Therefore, it is unlikely that you need to replant the plant often unless absolutely necessary. In the spring, when the plant is just beginning to awaken from winter rest best time change the soil.
The following is considered necessary: an operation to transplant spathiphyllum at home and care before rooting:
- the plant has grown so much that when moving apart sheet plates it is clear that the lower leaves die off from lack of nutrition and lighting:
- a new flower was acquired after being kept in a greenhouse, bought at a flower shop;
- annual transfer of young plants into a large container;
- the plant became sick, it was discovered root rot or insect pests;
- plant propagation.
How to transplant spathiphyllum at home, how to create conditions for the speedy recovery of the plant?
The soil for spathiphyllum is prepared lightly with an acidic reaction, but closer to neutral. This soil mixture can be bought at a flower shop for aroids, or you can prepare it yourself. Slightly acidic components are leaf soil, peat and added bark coniferous trees. Sand, turf soil and charcoal are neutral and help to average the composition to slightly acidic, close to neutral.
Soil composition for spathiphyllum and choice of dishes:
- turf land - 2 volumes;
- sheet, sand - 1 volume each;
- ceramic chips, charcoal, bark - 0.5 volume each.
You will need pebbles or expanded clay for the drainage layer in the flower pots. The created soil must be steamed and treated with phytosporin. To restore beneficial microflora, 2 weeks before planting, moisten the mixture with EM-1 and place in a dark place.
To transplant an adult plant, select a container that is one size or 1-2 cm larger than the previous pot. It should be borne in mind that painless transfer is carried out up to a container diameter of 20 cm, then they try to remove the top loose layer and add fresh nutrient mixture. The tightness for the roots is prerequisite flowering. A sign of a necessary change of dishes is a beard of yellow spathiphyllum roots emerging from the drainage hole.
Transshipment or transplantation, the right choice
We know that transshipment is a method of changing a container without disturbing a clod of earth connected by roots. In this case, the plant is moistened abundantly, but not so much that the soil turns into mud. It is enough for it to slide out of the tight pot easily, like clockwork, without damaging the roots. Having visually verified that the roots are healthy and the leaves have no signs of disease, the plant is carefully placed in a large bowl.
At the bottom of the new container there is a layer of drainage of 2 cm, 2 cm of soil and an intact lump of earth with roots is placed on top, having previously selected pebbles and expanded clay from the lower beard. Soil for spathiphyllum is poured on the sides, compacted a little, and lightly watered. When wet, the soil will settle; it needs to be added up to the neck. Shake the pot a little, make sure that the plant does not fall over and stands in the center. For several days, the new plant should be sprayed on the leaves, but not watered. It will quickly help the plant to take root if you place an inverted plastic bag, in the form of a mini-greenhouse.
If you really need it, then you can transfer it this way flowering plant, but a spacious pot will create conditions for stopping flowering.
If the plant is newly purchased, is it necessary and how to replant the spathiphyllum after purchase? Yes, it is necessary, but only after preliminary quarantine for 2 weeks. The soil on which plants are grown for sale contains a lot of peat and is seasoned nutrients only for the first time. Therefore, as far as the root system allows, you need to carefully clean it of the substrate and place it in the desired composition.
Just as during transshipment, a layer of drainage and soil is prepared, the roots are placed on it and carefully sprinkled with soil for spathiphyllum, with light shaking to compact it. The sprinkled roots are moistened, the soil fits tightly around the roots, and the soil is again poured up to the neck. In this case, about 2 cm should remain to the edges of the pot. The plant is checked for planting density, slightly rocking and checking that it does not fall over.
But such a spathiphyllum transplant requires careful observation for 2 weeks and frequent spraying of the leaves. An airtight cap over the plant will retain moisture and promote rapid rooting.
The only way to revise the roots is to replant. Therefore, each specimen must be checked for rot, cut out damaged and questionable areas, and sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal and dry it a little. At the same time, young leaves are also removed, they will die anyway.
In order to plant spathiphyllum thickets, you will need to completely immerse the plant in a container of water and let the soil turn into moving mud. After this, remove the plant, and, laying it out on a horizontal plane, select young plants, cut the rhizomes of old ones so that there are up to 5 leaves along with the root.
Plants that have a root system can be planted directly into containers. If there are no roots on the cuttings, they need to be germinated in a glass of water. Transplanting spathiphyllum during propagation is no different from how to transplant spathiphyllum after purchase.
In all cases of transplanting and transshipment, the plants are not watered until new leaves begin to appear. This means that the plant has taken root, and moisture will not harm it, and rot will not appear.
Video about indoor spathiphyllum