How to properly plant petiole celery in the ground. How to sow and grow petiole celery. Briefly about the important, or the unconditional benefits of petiole celery

Petiole celery is considered one of the most capricious and difficult plants to cultivate. Growing and caring for it requires strict adherence to the rules of agricultural technology. Only with a competent approach to choice planting material, watering and fertilizing can be obtained high yield this healthy and tasty vegetable.

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The best varieties to grow

All varieties of celery are divided into two categories:

• self-bleaching;
• those in need of bleaching (green).

The best self-bleaching varieties are presented in the table:

Variety name	Description	Fruiting dates
Malachite	You can get a harvest of about 3-4 kg from one square meter. The petioles are fleshy, dense, light green in color, each up to 35 cm long.	The growing time from germination will be 80-90 days.
Tango	The petioles are curved, up to 50 cm long, the weight of the rosette is 1 kg. From one square meter you can collect from 2 to 3.7 kg of fruit. The variety is widely used in cooking due to its rich aroma and pleasant taste.	Counts the best variety in its category, the harvest can be harvested in approximately 170 days.
Gold	Petioles are present average length, not very curved, high yield - up to 5 kg per square meter, rosette weight 800 g.	The fruits can be harvested 150-160 days after germination.

• loamy and sandy loam;
• pH level from 6.5 to 7.5.

Soil acidification will have a detrimental effect on the plant, but this indicator decreases after adding lime.

Soil preparation consists of the following activities:

1. In the fall, the celery beds are dug up and humus is added, 1 bucket per square meter.
2. For varieties that need bleaching, a trench 40 cm wide and 30 cm deep is prepared. Then the pit is filled with compost to a depth of 20 cm.
3. Before planting the seedlings, the soil is dug up and loosened again.

Seed material

Requirements for seed material:

• the height of the seedlings should reach at least 5-7 cm;
• the sprouts should be strong, but not elongated;
• three to five leaves are required.

Seed material ready for planting in open ground

How to plant celery?

Nuances of planting celery:

1. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 25 cm between sprouts, and there is no need to excessively deepen the sprouts into the soil.
2. When the plant height reaches 5-7 cm, each rosette is mulched.

Caring for petiole celery

Caring for petiole celery is necessary taking into account a number of nuances:

1. An additional condition for self-bleaching varieties is hilling. The procedure is carried out every 3 weeks.
2. Bleaching of other varieties involves wrapping the petioles in a thick layer of paper. This is done when the sprouts reach a height of 30 cm. The procedure will give the celery a light green color, and most importantly, a rich taste.

The whitening method is shown in a video on the First Country channel.

Watering rules

Irrigation features:

• celery needs abundant and timely watering, because when the soil dries out, the petioles may crack;
• quantity required water calculated based on the presence or absence of mulch, precipitation and plant needs;
• Both a lack and an excess of moisture can cause harm.

Top dressing

Immediately after transplanting the seedlings into open ground, and then every 10 days, fertilizing is carried out. Liquid organic fertilizers are used.

There is another feeding scheme:

1. Two weeks after planting, mullein is added in a ratio of 1:10.
2. 5 weeks after planting, mineral fertilizer is applied.

Disease and pest control

If you do not weed the beds and loosen the soil in time, there is a risk of slugs, snails and other pests.

The most common pests petiole celery:

1. Celery fly. Liming the soil, thinning seedlings, and digging up soil in the fall in a neighboring bed will protect against its effects.
2. carrot fly or psyllid. It is killed during weeding and loosening the soil. For prevention at the end of summer, the distance between the beds can be sprinkled with dry mustard or a mixture of sand and tobacco dust.
3. Bean aphid. Thyme or nasturtium planted nearby will protect against it. If the pest has managed to penetrate the cuttings, it is washed off with a decoction of dandelion, yarrow, tomato leaves and potatoes.

Celery fly Carrot fly Bean aphid

Diseases that celery may encounter:

1. Early burn or cercospora. Appears in damp weather and is identified by round spots on the petioles. As a preventative measure, seeds are disinfected for half an hour in water at a temperature of 45 °C. When infected, leaves are treated with topsin-M or foundationazole (0.1% solution).
2. Late burn. Treatment measures are the same as for early.
3. Powdery mildew. Appears when high humidity, cold dew. Affected plants and weeds are destroyed, the soil is dug up, celery is sprayed with infusion field thistle. Take 300 grams of herb for 5 liters of water, boil for half an hour, and infuse under the lid for 8 hours.
4. Cucumber mosaic. Appears as a yellow mosaic or round spots on the edges of the petioles. For prevention, the plant is sprayed with a decoction of tomato leaves. For 10 liters of water, 2 kg of dried tops are used, then 2 liters of decoction are diluted in 10 liters of clean water.
5. Rust. Leads to the death of leaves. For prevention and treatment, petioles are sprayed with phytosporin or bactofit.
6. Boron deficiency. With this problem, the petioles crack. This often happens on sandy soils and in hot weather. To treat celery, spray it with a 0.04% borax solution.

Powdery mildew

Celery is a vegetable crop with a bittersweet taste and exquisite spicy aroma. All parts of the plant are used in cooking - leaves, roots and even stems. They are added to soups and main dishes, salads, sauces and seasonings. In addition to its taste, celery is valued for its high content of vitamins and minerals. The plant is an important source of vitamins A, C, B, K, PP, magnesium, sodium, iron, calcium, phosphorus. Its regular use helps strengthen the immune system and protective functions of the body.

Growing petiole celery has its own characteristics. Although in general the plant cannot be called capricious and is adapted to various climatic conditions, ensuring proper care will allow you to get really juicy and aromatic petioles.

Optimal climatic conditions

The most favorable temperature for the growth of celery is 15–20 ˚С, however, some varieties of this crop can withstand even slight frosts. Particularly resistant to low temperatures are varieties with red colored stems. Optimal time for sowing - spring. The soil should be moderately moist, loose, drained, the area should be open and well lit. Soils with high acidity must be limed before planting young plants.

Petiole celery grows well in soil with a high nitrogen content. To enrich the soil with minerals, the area for planting celery is fertilized with humus in the fall.

Main varieties

Variety selection – important task, because productivity depends on it, appearance and taste qualities of celery. The following varieties have proven themselves well:

• "Atlant". Ripening period – 150 – 170 days. Distinctive feature – glossy surface stem with slight ribbing. From one bush it is possible to collect 300 - 400 g of petioles.

To obtain fresh petioles for consumption throughout the summer-autumn season, you need to use seeds with for different periods maturation.

Sowing for seedlings and diving

Growing a crop seedling method, it is possible to get a harvest in the first year. For this purpose, use boxes filled with a nutrient mixture (leaf soil, peat, humus and sand). It is better to sow in the third ten days of February - the first ten days of March, adhering to the following sequence:

• Soak the seeds in advance to speed up germination.
• Distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the ground.
• Sprinkle with a thin layer of nutrient soil mixture.
• Cover with a plastic bag.
• Place in a room with a temperature of 20 – 22 °C.
• After the first shoots appear, the polyethylene will need to be removed and the temperature reduced to 15 °C.

Be sure to regularly remove weeds in seed boxes and small, weakened shoots. The rest need to be looked after - watered through a sieve, hardened.

With the appearance of the second true leaf, the seedlings are pruned. When replanting shoots into separate cups, it is important to ensure that the outlet is not covered with soil. Plants in separate containers should be placed on a bright windowsill to speed up the growth of young leaves.

If the seedlings are already ready, the most difficult stage has been completed. Further care looking after the bushes won't be a big hassle.

Landing in the ground

A few days before transplanting into open ground, celery seedlings must be taken out to unheated veranda to adapt to new lighting and temperature conditions. As a rule, replanting is carried out in April - May, when spring frosts are already behind us.

Petiole celery is planted in deep trenches (from 30 cm) according to the 20x30 pattern. However, some self-bleaching varieties are suitable for planting in a regular garden bed. When planting, it is important to ensure that the rosette rises slightly above the ground surface. As the bushes grow, you will need to add soil to the furrows.

It is important to constantly ensure that the soil around the plants does not dry out. But overdoing it is also dangerous - the shoots can rot. It is necessary to weed the bed regularly, and as the crust forms.

A month after transplantation, nitrogen fertilizing is necessary. Vegetable crops are responsive to liquid organic fertilizers and nettle infusion.

When green shoots reach a height of 30 cm, they are bleached. To do this you should:

• Gather the leaves into a bunch and tie them neatly with a cut piece soft fabric or twine thread.
• Wrap the bunches with thick paper, making sure that it adheres well to the soil.
• Leave the leaves uncovered.
• Secure the paper with rope or tape.
• After 3 weeks, dig up the bushes along with the roots, without removing the cover, and place them in the cellar in damp sand.
• Straw can be used for hilling.

Bleaching makes the petioles sweet, eliminates unpleasant bitterness, and helps to acquire a delicate taste.

Video instructions for growing petiole celery

Diseases and main pests

Petiole celery is affected by the following types of diseases:

• black bacterial spot;
• purple rot of root crops;
• fungal infection of the base of the stem;
• tobacco mosaic virus;
• Root collar rot.

As a rule, the cause of rot is stagnation of water as a result of overwatering. Pests can also be carriers of diseases:

• carrot fly;
• hogweed fly;
• slugs;
• snails;
• scoops.

Strict adherence to recommended agricultural techniques will help protect the plant from pests: weeding, watering, diving, crop rotation. Also good method protection against diseases and pests is mixed planting celery with other vegetables and herbs. Petiole celery goes well in the garden with cabbage, tomatoes and beans. But planting next to parsnips is not recommended - both crops can be affected by the hogweed fly.

Harvest

Self-bleaching celery is ready for harvest 11 to 16 weeks after transplanting into the ground, and trench celery can be cut as needed. But even here it is important not to miss the moment of harvesting, otherwise the stems will become fibrous. The entire crop must be removed from the garden before the first frost, the estimated time frame is early to mid-October. To do this, dig up the bush along with the rhizome with a shovel or pitchfork.

Celery should be stored in a cool place.

Caring for this vegetable crop doesn't take much time. All that is required is watering as needed, fertilizing and, most importantly, hilling. By periodically sprinkling the bushes in the trench with earth, you can achieve excellent results - white and pleasant-tasting petioles, full of minerals.

To the rhetorical question of what to eat to lose weight, there is a very specific answer - celery! You eat 100 g of celery, with a calorie content of 19 kcal, the body spends 25 kcal on its processing. Active antioxidants in large quantities cleanse the body's cells from damage and remove toxins, prolonging youth. And here is the recipe for a love drink from Tristan and Isolde: 100 g of celery juice, 50 g of pear and apple juice. And although the root, stalk and greens of celery are not uncommon in supermarkets, it is much more useful to grow it with your own hands.

To receive good harvests you will need very fertile soil. Celery does not tolerate acidic or poorly drained soil. Deep, humus-rich loams are preferred.

It is advisable to plant celery in beds that have been richly fertilized for its predecessors (peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers). Poor soil can be improved by adding rotted manure or compost.

When planting leaf and petiole celery, you can apply fresh manure, since a high concentration of nitrogen accelerates the growth of the vegetative mass, so to speak, tops. To grow roots, the manure must be thoroughly rotten. The addition of phosphorus will speed up the ripening period and improve the quality of plants. Thanks to potash fertilizers the plant accumulates sugar and starch more intensively and increases frost resistance.

A little winter liming will replenish the need for calcium and magnesium. Fertilizer application rates per 1 m2: compost (rot manure) – 6-8 kg, fertilizers: nitrogen – 3-5 g, phosphorus – 10 g, potassium – 5 g.

Organic matter and phosphorus fertilizers are applied in the fall in full, half is taken from the rest. The remaining part is used in fertilizing. The planting area should be open, sunny, not shaded.

Video “Growing”

From the video you will learn how to grow celery correctly.

Seed material

Celery – two years old spicy plant family Umbelliferae. Breeding work on new varieties shifted the emphasis from green leaves to other parts of this plant, and as a result we received 3 types of varieties: petiole, leaf and root celery.

The best varieties of leaf celery:

• Samurai attracts with curly leaves with a corrugated edge. Mid-season with excellent taste;
• Cheerfulness – mid-season variety with good resistance to low temperatures and drought. The first harvest is cut after 70 days.
• Sail – early ripening, very productive variety, the first harvest is ready in 40-45 days.

Petiole celery is the least popular in our country, but I think this will not last long. The wonderful taste of crispy sticks captivates everyone who has tried celery stalks.

Varieties of this species are divided into self-bleaching, green (which need to be bleached) and intermediate forms. Self-bleaching stems are stored worse than green ones. Here are a few interesting varieties petiole celery:

• Pascal is a medium ripe variety that needs bleaching;
• Tango is a variety with excellent taste and smooth petioles. Light green color does not need bleaching.

And finally, celery root. To harvest for the winter, you need to purchase seeds of mid-early, middle and late varieties. Fruit early varieties poorly stored.

Let's look at a few popular varieties:

• Apple – very early ripening with round average size tuber variety Flaw - large number lateral roots;
• Cascade is a mid-early variety with a small number of low-lying roots;
• Prague giant is a large-fruited (up to 500 g) variety of medium ripening, the fruits are well stored.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Celery seeds are very small, contain a large amount of essential oils and therefore take a very long time to germinate. Germination rate is low. Therefore, for celery, growing from seeds in open ground very difficult.

Seedlings begin to be sown at the end of February. Seeds may take up to 1 month to germinate, but the process can be accelerated.

Let's consider several options for soaking seeds:

• seeds are washed in hot water 10-15 minutes, after which lightly dry. The seeds are ready for sowing;
• the seeds are soaked for a day in warm water;
• seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are kept for a week at room temperature, constantly moistened, then placed in the refrigerator away from the freezer for 2 weeks, after which they are planted.

Of the three methods, the last one (it’s called stratification) is the most effective.

For seedlings you will need low boxes filled with a mixture of garden soil, humus and sand. To disinfect the soil, boiling water with potassium permanganate is spilled 2 days before sowing the seeds.

Before sowing, the soil is moistened again, after about 2 hours, furrows 1 cm deep are made and sowing of seeds begins. If you plan to grow seedlings in the same boxes before planting them in the ground, then you need to sow the seeds at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

During subsequent picking, the crops can be compacted. Seeds evenly distributed along the grooves are not covered, but lightly pressed (this makes it easier for them to germinate) and watered with a spray bottle.

The boxes are covered with glass or transparent film and placed in the light. The air temperature in the room should be within 18-240C. After 5-7 days, the seeds will sprout and white roots will appear; after another week, cotyledon leaves will appear.

The film can be removed, the seedlings can be watered with water at room temperature using a spray bottle and very carefully loosened without covering the seedlings.

In February, there is still not enough natural light for the seedlings, which can cause them to stretch out, so it is recommended to provide additional light to them. In addition, lowering the temperature to 16 degrees will help slow down the stretching of seedlings.

You can find a lot on the Internet delicious recipes, in which it is used leaf celery or petiole, growing it is not particularly difficult and is suitable for our climate, so there is no reason to refuse such a useful vegetable plant!

What determines success in growing celery?

If you like to season your dishes with fresh herbs, and cannot imagine your plot without green onions, dill and various types salad, be sure to pay attention to plants such as leaf and petiole celery. Don’t be intimidated by the specific aroma and spicy taste of greens; it is so great that you should definitely include it in your diet as a seasoning or as a side dish for main courses.

Another question is how to grow petiole or leaf vegetables correctly in order to obtain plants with rich aroma, lush foliage, elastic stems and excellent taste qualities? To do this, you need to take into account some nuances, which will be discussed in this article.

Video about planting celery

It is recommended to place the beds in places exposed to the sun, but this plant does well even in light shade, and its foliage becomes more fragrant in such conditions. The most suitable temperature for the plant is about +20 degrees, temperate climate it grows best and can even tolerate light frosts. Varieties with reddish petioles are especially frost-resistant.

Celery seeds

Preferred for growing celery fertile soils, quite loose, drained and at the same time capable of retaining moisture. The acidity should be neutral, but if the soil is acidic, lime must be added to it before planting.

Do not plant the vegetable next to parsnips, otherwise both plants may suffer from the same pest - the celery fly.

Varieties

Leaf and petiole species contain essential oils, giving it a characteristic aroma and taste, stimulating appetite and digestion. In cooking, they are traditionally added to soups, sauces, salads, vegetarian pates and preservation.

Celery is a difficult vegetable to grow, but its flavor and healthfulness make it worth the effort to add it to your garden.

The best varieties to grow

In nature, celery is a biennial plant. In the first year, it produces a rosette of leaves and a root with numerous lateral roots, which grow to a depth of 20 cm. In the second year, shoots appear on which inflorescences consisting of small yellow flowers. In the gardens, to obtain commercial products the plant is grown as an annual.

There are many varieties on the market, both petiolate and leafy. They usually differ in size, ripening time or commercial properties. There are varietal and hybrid varieties of the plant. For cultivation in Russian climatic zone these are optimal petiole varieties like Atlas, Malachite, Golden.

You can find out more in the corresponding article on our website.

Among leafy varieties, according to gardeners' reviews, the leading varieties are Kartuli and Zakhar. They quickly grow green mass and are characterized by high yields.

If you are planning to grow celery at home, the choice of variety may be a decisive factor on which the plant's yield, appearance and taste will depend.

How to grow celery using seedlings

In our climatic conditions both root and leaf species are grown only from seedlings, because the seeds need enough high temperatures for germination. This is a plant with long period maturation. The vegetable grows best in fertile, loose soils that retain moisture well. Both plants love well-lit areas or light partial shade. They do not grow in acidic soil.

Celery develops slowly in the early stages of growth, so it is necessary to select correct area for landings. Best neighbors for him - beans, peas, cucumbers, cabbage, carrots and onions. He doesn't like the company of potatoes and corn. The smell of the plant has a repellent effect on a number of harmful insects, for example, white butterflies.

Video about growing petiole celery

The leafy variety requires a minimum of hassle - growing it comes down to weeding, loosening the rows and regular watering. It is only important when planting not to forget to place the growing point above the ground and constantly ensure that a crust does not form on the bed (mulching the soil will help to avoid this).

Plant care: rules for watering and fertilizing

Leaf and cutting varieties have high requirements for nutritional value soil, both in terms of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Recommended soil pH is 6.5 - 7.5. If the indicators on your site are higher, the soil should be deoxidized using liming (preferably in the fall) with the addition of magnesium or dolomite flour.

Organic fertilizers for this crop:

• humus;
• granulated or dried manure;
• compost;
• liquid fertilizer based on fermented grass;
• vermicompost (fertilizer produced by earthworms).

Mineral fertilizers:

• One-component. They should be used based on the results of soil chemical analysis. The analysis shows what nutrients (micro- and macroelements) are missing in the soil for growing a given plant.
• Complex. When using them, pay attention to the chlorine and sulfur content. Celery is chlorophyll, so we use fertilizers that contain chlorides. He does not like sulfur, so it is advisable to abandon sulfate fertilizers.

To obtain good yields of petiole and leaf species Use the following care tips:

• Covering with agrotextiles. Young seedlings are sensitive to low temperatures, so in the first period after planting it is worth covering the bed with a layer of agrotextile. To prolong the fruiting of the crop, the same technique is used in the fall to protect the greens from the first frosts.
• Mulching. Plants respond well to mulching, which significantly limits the growth of weeds in beds and promotes better conservation moisture, protects from overheating.
• Weeding. Loosening the soil has a positive effect on the growth and development of bushes. The soil between the rows is processed using a cultivator, flat cutter or hoe.
• Watering. This vegetable needs moist soil to develop properly. Daily watering is required when the mass of greenery increases, and then as needed.

Diseases and pests of celery - prevention and control

Plant diseases can significantly reduce the yield harvested from a site. Learn how to recognize the symptoms and learn how to combat plant diseases.

The crop may suffer from problems associated with fungal infections or a deficiency of one or another microelement in the soil. Light green or yellow leaves may be due to a lack of boron in the soil. Education brown spots on the cuttings it indicates the need to add molybdenum. These troubles can be prevented by introducing during planting complex fertilizer containing everything essential microelements in full force.

Diseases that occur for physiological reasons include the death of leaf tips. This problem is caused by excessive humidity in July and August, with cool weather and heavy rainfall. Multicomponent fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and magnesium help correct the problem.

Alarming symptoms such as discoloration and spots on the leaves, wilting of plants or inhibition of their growth may indicate the occurrence of fungal disease. The most common of them are presented in the table below.

Name of the disease	Signs of infection	Prevention	Treatment
Celery septoria	The first signs of infection can be seen even on seedlings; they are expressed in brownish spots on the cotyledons and leaves. A few weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground, dark brown spherical growths appear on the leaves and petioles of the infected plant. The source of celery septicemia infection can be infected seeds and residues from last year left in the soil. The development of this disease is favored by warm and humid weather in summer.	You can avoid the problem by choosing disease-resistant varieties and purchasing seeds treated with a fungicide.	Once signs of septriosis infection are detected, it is best to remove diseased plants. Treatment with Amistar250SC and Quadris may help in the early stages.
Early burn	This fungal disease, affecting all types. The causative agent of this disease is the fungus Cercospora apii, and the source of infection can be infected seeds and spores preserved from the previous year. A symptom of the problem is growing spots. The tissues of the affected part of the leaves gradually become yellow, brown and dry out. Plant growth is significantly weakened.	In the area where the diseased plants grew, celery cannot be replanted for 3 years.	Fight with early burn identical to the previous example.

You can cut trench petiole varieties at the end of autumn or dig them up as needed. Self-bleaching varieties are ready for harvesting within 12-15 weeks after planting in the ground. And leaf celery begins to be cut for greens already in July, as soon as it becomes clear that removing several stems will not harm the main plant.

Material updated 02/28/2018

Celery seeds are difficult to germinate. Without preliminary preparation, sown dry, they can germinate within 18-25 days or more. For this reason, before growing celery seedlings, the seeds mandatory processed. First, they are soaked for three days in warm (45 °C) water, changing it three times a day, and then germinated.

To germinate seeds, generally accepted methods are used. They are absolutely applicable for seeds sown for seedlings or in the ground during spring sowing. Just don’t get carried away and let things grow to the point of sprouts growing more than 1 mm long. They will die.

Planting celery seeds for seedlings is done in seedling containers, this is done at the moment when they barely begin to hatch.

You can also germinate celery seeds for sowing seedlings in a jar with wet sawdust. In this case, do not close the lid of the jar and keep it in a warm, well-lit place until the seeds germinate. The sawdust is constantly kept in a moderately moist state and the temperature is maintained within 18-22 °C.

Since the seed material is very fine, before planting root and petiole celery for seedlings, the seeds are mixed with dry sand or fine dry sawdust(better hardwood). Using preliminary germination, consider the day of starting soaking as the day of sowing.

IN middle lane Before planting in the ground, celery seedlings are grown in March-April for 50-60 days.

To sow root and petiole celery seeds for seedlings, the soil mixture is prepared from 3 parts peat, 1 part turf soil, 1 part humus and a small amount of sand and two glasses wood ash(on the bucket). In the absence of one, they use ready-made soil mixtures for onion crops or universal vegetable mixtures.

Sow celery seeds in seedlings with moist soil. The thickness of the soil layer should be at least 10 cm. Sow in two ways. First (for germinated seeds): make very shallow grooves no more than 0.5 cm deep, sow seeds in them and carefully level the surface, sprinkling the crops.

The second method is suitable for ungerminated dry seeds: the seeds are laid out on the surface of moist soil and not covered at all and kept in the light, preventing the seeds and soil from drying out (it is better to cover with film or glass). This way you can speed up the emergence of seedlings by 4-7 days.

Before emergence, the air temperature should be within 20-22 °C, then throughout the entire cultivation - 14-16 °C. We need to keep an eye on this. Violation temperature regime in the direction of increase can lead to stretching of seedlings, their weakening and, as a consequence, loss of yield and quality of roots and petioles.

Growing petiole seedlings and celery root

When growing root and petiole celery through seedlings with the appearance of one true leaf at the seedlings, the crops are thinned out (pulled), leaving a distance of 3-4 cm between plants or planted in peat-humus pots measuring 5x5 cm. Celery seedlings tolerate picking well and in further transplantation. The quality of roots and petioles does not suffer. Typically, celery is grown for preservation and consumption in autumn-winter period. For an average family of 3-4 people, it is enough to grow no more than 40 root crops in order to fully provide for themselves and use the root crops for forcing greens.

Before planting seedlings in the ground, they are hardened off for a week (increased ventilation and removal to the balcony).

When growing petiole and root celery, seedlings with 4-5 true leaves are considered ready for planting dark green and a developed root system.

On the day of disembarkation they carry out abundant watering. Plants are removed from the ground and sorted by size. Before planting, part of the leaves and at the root of the seedlings is cut off to facilitate planting and establishment. Plants are planted in prepared beds in rows: root varieties - with a row spacing of 40-45 cm and between plants 25-30 cm, petiole varieties - in rows of tapes with a distance between lines of 20-30 cm, between tapes 50-60 cm, between plants 15- 20 cm. When growing celery seedlings, before planting, the roots are cut to 1/3 of the length and, just like onion seedlings, dipped in a mash of earth and mullein (or clay and mullein) to prevent them from drying out and for better survival. The plants are buried to 10 cm, without covering the apical bud, lightly squeezed and watered abundantly.

Celery is picky about soil. Grows well in deep loamy soils, rich organic substances. Light and heavy soils, as well as soils with a shallow arable horizon are unsuitable for growing celery. If, out of necessity, celery is placed on such soils, their properties are improved mainly by adding semi-decomposed or decomposed manure. Celery also needs this fertilizer because in order to form a large, juicy and tender vegetation mass, it extracts a large amount from the soil. nutrients.

Celery should be planted after its predecessors, under which a large amount of manure was applied, such as cucumbers, tomatoes, and peppers. It is planted late, so before planting in this place you can grow spinach, lettuce, green onions, green garlic.