Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. With his affordable price it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.
You are invited detailed instructions By self-installation siding. The guide is universal. Following its provisions, you can complete the finishing with any siding that involves installation on the sheathing: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.
Siding is best attached to pre-installed sheathing. We work in the following order.
The first stage - choosing the material
The frame can be assembled from wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are stronger and more durable. Besides this, metal lathing much easier to attach to uneven ground.
Installation of profiles is carried out in half-meter increments. Suspensions are used for mounting to the wall. This technique will allow you to level out differences in the surface and secure the frame elements at a level.
Wooden sheathing is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is prohibited to:
- the material has peeled off;
- was deformed;
- had bluish spots and traces of rot, etc.
Elements of wooden sheathing must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built from wooden elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed preparations.
Stage two - preparing the base
The sheathing is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any parts that may interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.
The third stage - installing guides
Siding is best mounted horizontally. In this case, we fix the bars or sheathing profiles vertically.
To attach the guides to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fasten it with dowels, having previously drilled holes for them in the wall of the house.
We align each rail by level.
Important! If you plan to carry out external wall insulation, it is best to install the siding sheathing after all insulation works. IN in this case there will be two lathing: for insulating materials and for cladding. In this case, the slats of the two frames should be placed parallel to each other.
You can, of course, try to lay insulating layers after attaching the siding sheathing, but this is not very convenient.
Mounting J-profiles
The starting guides must be secured perfectly, because... The quality of the entire cladding depends on the correct installation.
First step. Take a level and find the lowest point on the sheathing. We step back 50 mm from it and put a mark. To do this, screw a little self-tapping screw into the rail.
Second step. We consistently move around the building and continue to place marks with self-tapping screws to fix the starting profiles. We also screw screws into the corners of the house.
Third step. We stretch the ropes between the corner marks.
Fourth step. Mark the installation boundaries on the slats corner profiles. We take the profile itself and apply it to the corner frame structure and put marks along the edges using a pencil.
Important! We leave a 1-centimeter gap between the profiles to compensate for temperature deformations.
Leave a gap between the starting guides and the nail strips.
To avoid making a 6 mm indentation, you can cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest against the J-profile during temperature changes.
Important! Starting profiles must be mounted strictly horizontally! Correct deviations as long as necessary.
If you install guides that deviate from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.
We install external corner profiles
First step. We mark the soffits. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be located in the future.
Second step. We apply the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3mm gap to the soffit or roof. We fasten the profile with self-tapping screws.
Place the bottom border of the element 0.6 cm below the edge starting profile.
Third step. Checking the vertical installation. If there are no deviations, we fix the bottom, and then the remaining places. Experts do not recommend placing fasteners in corner elements too often.
If the house is higher than 300 cm, the profiles will need to be placed one on top of the other. To do this, we trim the top profile. As a result, there should be a 9 mm gap between the planks of the joining elements. When laying the elements, maintain an overlap of 2.5 cm.
Important! We join the profiles at the same level on each side of the house.
If the base has a protruding structure, shorten the profile so that there is a 6 mm gap between it and the base.
Useful advice! Instead of a corner profile, it is allowed to install 2 J-elements (starting). This way you can save money. But this solution also has its drawback - the corner will not be as tight as when using a special corner profile. If you decide to use this method, first glue the wall around a similar corner with a strip of rolled waterproofing material.
Installing internal corner profiles
The installation procedure for these elements does not differ significantly from the technology for arranging external corners - we leave a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit, and lower the lower end of the profile below the J-bar by 0.6 cm.
If there is a protruding plinth or other element from below that stands out from the general level, then between it and the profile we also leave a 6-mm indentation - the profile of the internal corner must not rest against it.
There are 3 methods of arrangement internal corners, see picture.
If the wall height is more than 300 cm, we splice the profiles. The technology is the same as for arranging external corners.
We leave a 9 mm gap between the slats, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. We install the fasteners in 4-centimeter increments, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this. The exception is the highest point. Here the fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.
We install frames of openings
For most inexperienced craftsmen, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing window and door openings. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged in relation to the plane of the wall.
Openings in the same plane with the facade
In this case, we do the following.
First step. We waterproof openings.
Second step. We attach platbands or J-profiles to the openings. We equip each opening using 4 platbands: a pair of vertical and a pair of horizontal.
Third step. Connecting profiles.
To make the connection of the platbands as neat as possible, we do this:
The platband at the bottom is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for their further laying on the profile below.
Openings are recessed into the facade
When installing near-window profiles, we follow the same recommendations as when installing platbands, i.e. We create cuts on the profile corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finishing elements.
Take the time to understand the principles of bending such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture will not be able to penetrate inside.
Installing the first panel
We start cladding from the least noticeable wall of the building. This way we can practice and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.
First step. We insert the first cladding panel into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting strip.
Important! We leave a 6 mm temperature gap between the first cladding element and the lower part of the corner profile lock.
Second step. Attach the panel to the sheathing.
It is important to maintain the dimensions of technological indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm gap; if in cold weather, we increase the gap to 9 mm. When installing panel trims, the indents can be reduced.
Extending panels
We build up the cladding elements with an overlap or using an H-profile.
When attaching panels with an overlap, you must first shorten the locks of the facing panels and the fastening frames so that the resulting overlap has a length of 2.5 cm.
The installation of the H-profile is carried out similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the soffit, at the bottom we lower it by 0.6 cm in relation to the starting profile.
Important! We leave a 6mm gap between the H-profile and any obstacles on the façade of the house.
Installing the rest of the siding
We continue covering the house with siding. The operating technology is similar to the procedure for attaching the first panel.
Important! Every 2-3 rows we check the horizontality of the cladding using a level.
Having reached the opening, we remove the unnecessary piece of the panel falling on the opening.
We ensure reliable fastening of the panels using “hooks”. For this we need a punch.
We install an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. This will allow the cladding to be leveled.
Installation under the roof
We attach a J-profile under the roof structure.
We work in the following order.
First step. We measure the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finishing element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.
Second step. We subtract a 1-2 mm indent from the resulting measurement.
Third step. We mark the whole panel, cut it off top part with locking connection.
Fourth step. We create “hooks” in the upper part of the element in 20-centimeter increments. To do this, we make cuts and bend them to the front side.
Fifth step. We insert the trimmed element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight upward movement, snap the inserted element into lock connection finishing profile.
We mount the pediment
We sheathe the pediment around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top one, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper one fastener install at the top of the hole. It can be sheathed either with profiles for arranging internal corners or with a starting profile.
The installation procedure is similar to fastening wall panels. We trim the edges of the elements and connect them to the locks of the receiving profiles. We remember the 6 mm indentation when installing in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.
We fasten the last element of the gable cladding directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.
The cladding is complete.
In order for the finishing of the house with panels to be as successful as possible, you need to know certain subtleties performing such work. There is a list general recommendations for any siding, as well as individual tips for panels made of a specific material.
For different materials
Now you can carry out siding installation at the highest level yourself.
| Name (model) | Benefits | Length x width x thickness, mm | Quantity per package, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl Siding "Canada Plus" | 1. Coloring in dark colors performed using the “Cool Color” method (heat absorption), which involves the use of masterbatches. 2. Excellent appearance remains unchanged even when exposed to high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50°C to +60°C. 3. Retains shock resistance even if the temperature environment drops to -20 - 60°C. 4. Not susceptible to microbiological corrosion (fungi, mold). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Acrylic Siding "Canada Plus" | Among others useful qualities acrylic siding "Canada Plus" is worth highlighting: Increased stability to exposure to direct ultraviolet rays; Excellent tolerance to acidic and alkaline solutions, as well as various fats; Good tolerance to washing with chemical detergents; High degree deformation resistance (excellently tolerates temperatures up to 75°-80° C). | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| "Alta-Siding" – Vinyl Siding | "Alta siding" is: one of the safest finishing materials on Russian market; frost resistance and the ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures(from -20 to -60°C); resistance to significant temperature changes and environmental influences; durability: the service life of Alta-siding is up to 30 years; resistance to aggressive substances (can be used to clean siding detergents); non-susceptibility to infection by mold fungi. | 3660 x 230 x 1.1 | 20 |
| Facade metal siding INSI | INSI siding is made of galvanized steel coated with a layer of polymer composition, which means it inherits all the advantages of this material: resistance to temperature changes (-50°C - +80°C) and mechanical damage; long service life with preservation of original properties (about 50 years); environmental friendliness; non-flammability; Possibility of installation both horizontally and vertically; protection of the building from overheating (in a ventilated facade system); and when choosing one of two new colors (alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance. | Length up to 6000, width up to 200, thickness 0.5 | - |
Good luck!
Video - Do-it-yourself siding installation
Siding is one of the most inexpensive and practical materials for finishing the facade of a house. Installation of such cladding is quite simple; even a novice builder can master the installation. The material is strong and durable and is not afraid of rain, frost, wind and sun. It will protect the walls of the house from mechanical damage and prevent their premature destruction.
Another argument in favor of the material under consideration is the designer’s freedom of imagination. Wall cladding can be done in the most different colors and invoices. Exists huge amount options, some of them are designed to imitate natural stone, brick, wood of various species.
Types of siding for cladding
Siding is a special cladding panel. Exterior cladding products are usually lamella-shaped, but larger varieties are sometimes found. These elements are produced in the form of fairly large panels.
The siding itself can be made from different materials:
- Plastic. Made from vinyl or acrylic polymer. Finishing the facade with this type of material is the most affordable option. The material does not rot and is resistant to moisture. In this case, the plastic does not crack and does not support combustion. The disadvantages of this type of siding include low impact strength.
Vinyl siding is a classic of the genre. Affordable, beautiful and light.
- Metal. Panels made of galvanized iron or aluminum are absolutely fireproof. They are also characterized by high strength. But there are several disadvantages that can cause inconvenience during installation and operation. These disadvantages include increased weight and instability of steel to corrosion. To prevent damage, it is better to choose aluminum models, but their price will be significantly higher.
Metal siding is a very strong and durable material. But you can only buy it from official sellers - fakes quickly rust
- Tree. The material is called “planken” and is highly expensive. Wood is capricious and requires special attention and care during operation. But the advantages of such cladding of houses include an attractive appearance, good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.
Wood siding is the most environmentally friendly, effective and expensive option
- Fiber cement. Relatively new look, which is just gaining popularity. The material belongs to the group of non-flammable materials and is not susceptible to mold and mildew. Also from positive characteristics moisture resistance, strength and durability can be distinguished. Special fastenings are provided for installation.
Fiber cement is not subject to combustion and has a rich palette of textures, textures and colors
Decorating the exterior of a house with siding is not difficult, but painstaking. Considering the cost of professional workers, it will be much easier to do this work yourself. To do this, you just need to study the technology and carefully review the recommendations of the manufacturer of a particular finishing material.
Material calculation and preparation
The technology for finishing a house with siding is almost the same for all types. To cladding a house, you will need to prepare some tools for the job:
- a universal hacksaw with small teeth;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- hammer;
- construction plumb line;
- roulette;
- pencil.
Full list the necessary tool It's easier to do the job with two people. They start with calculating the material. This is necessary in order to immediately purchase the required quantity and avoid additional transport and time costs during the work process.
The amount of material can be calculated approximately. To do this, calculate the area of the external walls, plinth and cornices. To calculate the required number of panels, the result must be divided by the area of one element. In order to think over the location of the joints and more accurately calculate the quantity, it is worth making a sketch of the external walls of the building. It is recommended to add 5-10% to the amount of siding received for trimming and various unforeseen expenses.
Calculation of surface area for cladding Wall finishing begins with surface preparation. It includes the following steps:
- cleaning from dirt and dust;
- removal of plants, dried lime;
- removal of worn-out plaster and other finishing materials;
- dismantling drainpipes, window sills, various decorative elements that may interfere with the work process.
Frame installation
If the house is built of brick or lightweight concrete, it is recommended to use light metal profile sheathing. For a timber or frame building, it is wise to choose a timber frame.
The wooden sheathing is made from slats measuring 50x50 mm. They can be attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. During installation wall siding the sheathing is placed vertically. When finishing the base, both vertical and horizontal frames can be used.
The frame slats are installed in increments of 30-40 cm, as well as around the openings. There should not be any slats at the very bottom First of all, the corner elements of the frame are installed. Their evenness is checked using a building level. To secure the frame posts, you should use nails with anti-corrosion coating(zinc, aluminum). The distance between the frame slats depends on the type of siding. For metal panels it will be 40 cm, and for vinyl - 30 cm. But this information should be clarified with the manufacturer.
Are you planning to insulate your facade?
In order for the house to maintain its ability to breathe, it is recommended to choose mineral wool. This is especially true for wooden buildings. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the climatic region.
Insulating a house with mineral wool implies the presence of a ventilation layer between the wool and the siding. If the height of the sheathing is not enough to provide a gap of 1-3 cm, then a counter-lattice is provided.
Installation of insulation with a counter-lattice to create a ventilation gap On top of the insulation, using a construction stapler, attach a hydro- windproof film. Wall cladding will breathe well if you use modern vapor diffusion windproof membranes. You should be careful with insulation because wrong choice materials at this stage can lead to problems with room temperature and ventilation.
How to work with siding
Finishing begins with the installation of the starting profile. It is attached to the sheathing using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The second step will be the installation of corner elements and connecting profile(if one is needed). Door and window openings must be edged with a special j-profile.
Installation of starting and corner profiles Installation of the first siding panel is carried out on the starting strip. It snaps into place and is secured with self-tapping screws (or nails). The assembly of the cladding begins from the bottom up. The panels are secured to each other using a tongue-and-groove system.
Attention! When installing plastic, wood or fiber cement panels, rigid fixation is not allowed. After correct installation the element can be moved to the sides. Rigid fixation is used only when installing metal siding.
Installation of ordinary, connecting and end elements When working with plastic, a gap of a couple of millimeters should be left between the trim and the head of the nail or screw. Tight fastening can damage the material when humidity and temperature change (plastic expands).
Vertical gable cladding
Finishing the facade with siding is quite simple. Plastic elements have special elongated holes for fastening. Nails or screws are placed in the middle.
To finish finishing the house with siding, you need to install a finishing strip at the top of the wall. The last panel is inserted into this bar from below and snaps into place.
To finalize the finishing, it is necessary to install all facade elements (eaves, window sills, pipes, etc.) in their place.
A house finished with siding is reliably protected from any weather conditions!
The design of the facade or basement of a private house is not always dictated by the desire to make the house more original. Often, purely practical goals are pursued - protecting walls, hiding obvious shortcomings. Therefore, it is not always possible and advisable to use expensive facade materials. And in these cases, vinyl siding comes to the rescue.
Features of vinyl siding, video
Vinyl siding is a relatively new and practical material for facade finishing, which is cladding panels about 1 mm thick and stylized to resemble natural building materials for cladding. The panel can be either vertically or horizontally oriented, but the essence remains the same - changing the appearance of the facade and protecting the walls from natural influences, mechanical damage, for installing insulation, etc. Its aesthetic qualities can be debated, but the main indisputable advantages of the material are are called:
In order to PVC panel showed all my positive aspects, it needs to be installed correctly, and this is a rather painstaking process. Installation of vinyl siding with your own hands, a video lesson for which we have prepared, in general outline presented in the lesson, and we will touch on some features and tricks during installation.
Preparing to Install Vinyl Siding
It is very important, before laying vinyl siding, to decide on its type, based on the design of the exterior of the house. The fact is that in a store it is very difficult to judge from one sample panel how the house as a whole will look. By choosing the wrong color even for the panel, you can harm the appearance or fail to achieve desired results. After the siding has already been purchased, it is necessary to begin preparatory work.
PVC siding is mounted only on a frame or sheathing. Their design depends on what kind of siding, vertical or horizontal, we chose for finishing. Wooden slats or galvanized steel are used as a frame. metal profile, which is used for installing drywall. In rare cases, you can do without lathing if we're talking about only about aesthetic design and the walls are perfectly smooth. But siding, as a rule, is laid on a layer of insulation, and this introduces some difficulties, so perhaps we’ll start with insulation.
Regardless of whether insulation is provided in the cladding design or not, marking the facade is a mandatory step. Despite the fact that the panels have perfectly even geometric shapes, markings are necessary in both vertical and horizontal planes. Using a level or plumb line, the fastening points of the frame elements are marked on the walls of the building. Depending on the type of siding panels, slats or profiles are placed both vertically and horizontally strictly according to the markings. Galvanized metal profiles are fixed at a distance of 40 cm, and wooden slats at a distance of no more than 50 cm from each other.
- Installation of insulation is carried out according to this algorithm, and depending on what finishing material is used, the installation scheme changes very rarely:
- A spacer strip is attached directly to the wall, which provides ventilation to the wall. Its thickness can be about 10 mm.
- A layer of rolled vapor barrier is nailed to the plank.
- In the spaces between the main frame slats, a layer or several layers of heat insulation are laid - mineral wool, as a rule, in this case the most likely candidate for installation.
- Wind insulation is installed on top of the insulation.
- Sometimes a spacer bar is installed on top of it for better ventilation.
- Only after this are the siding panels attached to the base frame rail.
I would like to note that all wooden frame elements must be treated with an antiseptic. This will eliminate the possibility of fungi and pests appearing in the frame, which in turn will affect the durability of the entire structure.
As you can see, by installing siding ourselves, we save a significant amount. At the same time, we reserve the right to choose materials and technologies. Having carefully understood the technology for installing siding panels and spending some time on installation, the house will receive a completely different appearance and enhanced protection from cold and wind.
In this article I want to talk about how to install siding with your own hands. I’ll tell you why the house was sheathed with siding and not with another material. I will give examples possible errors during siding with your own hands and how to avoid them. As a result, this article can become for people planning to install siding installation instructions from the selection and calculation of siding panels to the final installation of siding.
Introduction
It has been 15 years since the construction of my house was completed. The house is built of timber, the inside walls of the house are covered with fiberboard, and the façade of the house is covered with clapboard. I live on the eastern coast of Kamchatka, where winter lasts at least 5 months.
During this time, the outer sides of the walls of the house in winter were exposed to frost, angry cold winds, as well as frequent snowstorms, and in the fall - frequent rains and fogs. All these atmospheric phenomena negatively affected the condition of the external cladding of the walls of the house.
The lining of the outer wall cladding dried out, warped, cracks formed at the joints, the rooms became noticeably colder and there was a clear feeling of dampness. The question arose about replacing the covering of the external walls and, first of all, the north-eastern pediment, which was the first to bear all the blows of the changeable Kamchatka weather.
I needed to solve two fundamental questions:
- What material should I choose (the same lining, or something else)?
- Place a new layer on old layer cladding, or remove the old one and re-cladding?
The answer to the first question was quickly found - the lining will not work. Why? Just having re-covered the house with clapboard, I will have to paint it again every year, and still in 10-15 years the house siding will have to be replaced. The house needs to be sheathed with such material that it will last longer. long term, unlike lining, did not require annual maintenance (painting) and this material was resistant to precipitation.
Having gone through various options, I decided to go with vinyl siding. Installing vinyl siding with your own hands is quite simple; in addition, the siding itself is quite cheap, durable, and does not require any repairs or painting during its entire service life. Caring for siding is also simple - just remove dust and dirt stuck on top, you can even use a stream of water from a hose. Service life - up to 50 years. Temperature range - from -60 to +60°C.
Siding. Vinyl panels
I chose panels 6 m long (to reduce waste, since maximum length my pediment is 5.8 m). One such panel has an area of 1.37 square meters. m. The price of these panels in our construction stores— 180 rub./m2 ($5.2).
The range of colors and shades of commercially available vinyl siding is very diverse. I chose the color “Sandstone” as it goes well with the gray slate and white cornices.
Note: the piers are indicated in Fig. 3
The answer to the second question (how to sheathe a house with siding) - I decided to install new layer on top of the old one. Why?
- First: I didn't need to do extra work dismantling the old casing, which saved me at least one day;
- Second: if you remove the old sheathing, then when sheathing the house with siding, most likely, when attaching the sheathing, you would have to align the attached slats so that the surface of their ends, to which the siding panels are attached, would be located in the same plane, and by nailing them onto the old sheathing, this is not necessary - since the walls already have a flat surface.
Siding calculation
After this, it was necessary to calculate the siding and decide on the number of purchased panels and finishing strips for them. To do this, I carefully measured the pediment and made it detailed drawing in scale 1:25. Less window openings of the house and veranda, the total area of the gable was 22 m2. Based on the drawing, I determined exactly where and what scraps from the six-meter panels would be installed, so I bought all the materials with a minimum reserve for waste. As a result, there was practically no waste left.
An example of calculating the area of a pediment:
I calculated the area of the pediment using Heron's formula (calculating the area of a triangle):
S=√ p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c),
where the semi-perimeter is calculated using the formula:
p=(a+b+c):2
Scheme for calculating the area of the pediment
Now let's write down the derived data, where
a - 8 m, b - 8m, c - 6 m
Calculation of the semi-perimeter of the pediment:
p= (8+8+6):2=11 m
Having calculated the semi-perimeter of the triangle (pediment), I calculated the area (S) of the pediment:
S= √ 11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6)
S= √495 = 22.25
The gable area is 22.25 sq.m.
Vinyl siding components
In addition to the panels, it was additionally required to purchase:
- starting strip - 12 pcs. 2.8 m each;
- external corner - 4 pcs. 2.8 m each;
- J-bars - 16 pcs. 2.8 m each;
- self-tapping screws - 600 pcs.
Note: The J-bar is called by many names: “J-channel”, “J Channel”, “Edging rail”, “J-rail”, “J-profile”, and in stores sometimes “ Finish bar”, although this name refers to a completely different part... Further in the text we will call it “J-bar” in the future.
Preparing to install siding yourself
I decided to cover the house with siding myself, since such work costs us on average 50% of the cost of materials. But why pay “extra money” when you can do this work yourself.
Before we could begin cladding the gable, we had to start installing secure scaffolding. It is unrealistic to work at a height of about 6 m while standing on a ladder. In addition, due to the lack of assistants, there was simply no one to hold the 6-meter end of the panel on the other side. In old stock building materials I found two 6-meter beams 150x50 mm and smaller beams with a section of 100x50 mm.
For the flooring, I bought 40 mm boards (with the expectation that I would later cut them into veins for a new fence). I coped with this task, which was previously unfamiliar to me, quite easily...
I started installing the siding myself from the bottom of the house. But... I won't get ahead of myself. I will describe all the work in order, step by step, what needs to be done and in what sequence, as required by the installation instructions.
Tools necessary for working with siding
Basically, you need the most common tool, which is familiar to any summer resident who has ever been involved in construction or carpentry work. Here is a list of what you need to have on hand:
- roulette;
- metal ruler;
- metal carpenter's square (at least 30 cm long);
- metal hacksaw with fine teeth;
- hammer;
- screwdriver (or regular screwdriver);
- awl;
- knife-cutter;
- metal scissors;
- twine and chalk;
- level (at least 60 cm long);
- pliers.
Preparing the wall surface for siding
Although not the most difficult, but very important stage, and also the key to a high-quality and successful installation of siding, is careful preparation of the base. First of all, you should remove everything climbing plants and tree branches in contact with the walls. Remove drainpipes, light fixtures and other parts from areas of the house walls where they may interfere with the installation of panels.
If you will cover your house with siding yourself using the old existing clapboard siding, as I did, then you must first carefully inspect and evaluate the condition of the old siding (if any) and the wooden elements of the wall structure. Loose boards and panels must be nailed tightly.
Note: It is better to replace rotten boards, since the process that has begun under the cladding will most likely not stop. It would be a good idea to additionally treat areas of the walls that are problematic in this regard with an antiseptic.
Elements of the house that need to be dismantled before finishing the house with siding
1 - pier, 2 - trim, 3 - shutters, 4 - external corner, 5 - wind boards, 6 - plank (transition) between the foundation and walls of the house, 7 - external window sill.
You will have to remove all the trim, if any - shutters, protruding window sills, as well as drainage and decorative elements around windows and doors.
When the listed parts are removed, using a long rod, plumb line or level, you can easily check how smooth the walls of your house are.
Vinyl siding panels have a thickness of no more than 1.1-1.2 mm and are not capable of bearing any significant load. Therefore, when installing them on a curved surface, the slightest unevenness will appear on the outside sheathing.
Note: At this stage, it turned out that the window openings were made by me at one time, to put it mildly, not strictly according to the level. Or maybe the foundation has sunk.
In order to install the windows evenly in the window openings, I had to remove the glass from the windows, trim the frames and window units to insert them evenly into the window openings.
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Window unit installation diagram
1 - wooden linings (slats), 2 - window frame, 3 - plumb line, 4 - level
When leveling the window blocks, I placed pre-prepared slats under one of the sides, the length of which was equal to the width of the window block. I checked the horizontal installation of window blocks using a level, and the vertical position using a plumb line.
Fragment of a wooden window frame
I also replaced the dowels in the joints of the window frame bars and reinforced them with metal corners.
After which window frames and blocks, primed and painted. After the paint had completely dried, I installed the glass and at the same time replaced the cracked glass.
Get more detailed information about installing windows, you can read the article and.
Installation of lathing and insulation of walls
For new buildings made of wood, sheathing is usually not required. Siding can be mounted on any wooden walls, as well as on walls covered with chipboard, fiberboard, plywood and other similar materials. However, the walls of old buildings most often have noticeable irregularities.
On such walls it is necessary to install sheathing made of boards or slats. Do-it-yourself lathing for siding is made from wooden slats section 50x80 mm. I attached the slats to the walls using nails 100 mm long.
Sheathing for siding made of wooden slats
For horizontally oriented siding panels, the sheathing slats must be nailed (50 mm sides) vertically at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. They should also be installed around windows, doors and other openings or openings, at all corners, along the bottom and top edges of the panel installation area.
Note: Simultaneously with the installation of the sheathing, the wall can be additionally covered with insulation. To do this, I filled the space between the slats with 50 mm thick foam boards. But not only foam plastic can be used to insulate walls; there are many other types of insulation, which everyone chooses at their own discretion.
More detailed information about insulating the walls of a house can be found in the article.
All instructions recommend installing siding with galvanized nails. Quote:“Nails must be made of aluminum or galvanized with a head with a diameter of 0.9-1 cm. The shank of the nail must have a diameter of 3 mm and a length sufficient to penetrate the base to a depth of at least 2 cm.”
After some thought, I decided that it would be more convenient to fasten the panels with self-tapping screws. You can screw in a screw with a screwdriver (or just a Phillips screwdriver) using a magnetic attachment with one hand, but to drive a nail you need both. This was the decisive factor in favor of self-tapping screws.
Setting the starting line
Scheme for installing a starting strip for siding of a private house
I started installing the siding by installing the starting strip:
- first I found the lowest point of the old casing;
- then, using chalk and a building level (you can use twine and chalk), I drew a marking line 40 mm above the level of the old sheathing;
- installed the starting bar so that its upper edge was located along the marking line, and attached it to the house - this installation work starting bars completed around the entire perimeter of the house.
Note: Since we are talking about installing siding parts, we need to list the basic rules for its fastening (this applies to both panels and fittings).
- Vinyl siding is nailed down so as not to interfere with its possible thermal expansion and contraction. To do this, you should always leave a gap of 5-6 mm between the end edge of the siding panel and the J-straps, corners or other fittings. When installing panels in cold weather (up to -10 degrees), the thermal gap should be increased to 9-10 mm.
Installation (nailing) options for vinyl siding
- Do not attach the siding too tightly to the sheathing or wall! Do not drive the nails all the way in! Leave a gap of approximately 1-1.5 mm between the head of the nail (or screw) and the vinyl panel. This is necessary for free expansion and contraction and to prevent warping of the skin.
Options for gaps between the nail (or screw) head and the vinyl panel
- Nails (screws) must be driven into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, and not from the edge - this can subsequently lead to breakage of the panel. Nails are hammered in increments of 30-40 cm. After nailing all the nails, the panels should move freely in one direction or the other horizontally within the width of the mounting holes.
Attention! Nails should be driven in strictly at right angles! Even one bent nail, interfering with the free movement of the panel, can cause local “swelling” of the siding.
- The panel to be installed must first be connected to the bottom panel (or to the starting strip) and pushed upward until the “lock” clicks into place. After this, the panel can be nailed. At the same time, it should not be pulled or pressed too hard; it should hang on the attachment points without tension, maintaining its natural shape. Excessive tension may cause improper connection with other panels and parts. Both excessively tight fastening and loose panels should be avoided.
- When installing platbands, shutters, electrical wiring and other parts, holes in the siding must be drilled 5 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners used. This will allow the panels to expand or contract freely as temperatures fluctuate.
Installing external corners
The outer corner is a part that covers the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows you to match wall sheathing located in two mutually perpendicular planes.
External corner of siding panel on corner of house
I installed the outer corner so that at the top it was 6mm short of the cornice or J-bar, and at the bottom the end was 8mm below the level of the starter strip overhangs.
Note: nails must be driven in the center of the existing fastening holes, leaving the part open to expansion and contraction with temperature fluctuations. The distance between adjacent nails is from 20 to 40 cm.
Corner piece for attaching siding
Sometimes you need to cover the upper or lower end of an external corner installed on the wall. The covers required for this can be made from pieces of J-planks with a length equal to twice the width of the outer corner.
Cover from a section of J-flap for the outer corner of the siding
I bent the blanks prepared in this way and nailed them to the wall, and then inserted the outer corners into them.
Installing J-Bars Around Window and Door Openings
J-bar installation diagram around window or door openings
To join wall cladding with siding panels to window and doorways, around the latter, I installed J-bars. The most difficult thing here is to correctly form the corner joints of the vertical and horizontal planks. You can do this as follows:
Joints of vertical and horizontal J-planks
First, in the bottom of the horizontal J-bar installed above the window opening, I cut an eyelet 2 cm long and bent it down. He did the same on the other side of this bar. Then I cut the front folded part of the J-bar at a 45° angle.
Connecting the corners of J-bar framing around a door or window opening
At the side J-bar of the frame, I made a rectangular cutout 2 cm deep in the bottom and connected the top and side bars. In the same way I connected all the other corners of the frame.
Installation of siding panels
I installed the siding panels in rows from bottom to top. First, I brought the bottom edge of the first panel behind the protrusion of the starting strip, and then nailed the top edge to the wall. The installation of the next row began only when the installation of the previous one was completely completed.
All panels must stand freely, between their end edges and vertical parts ( external corners and J-planks) it is necessary to leave gaps of at least 5-6 mm.
Joining panels with molding
If the dimensions of the panels installed horizontally are smaller than the width of the house wall, then they have to be increased in length.
Docking H-molding (profile)
I did this using a special connecting H-molding (profile), which I installed in in the right place on the wall strictly parallel to one of the nearest corners of the house or any other vertical design on the wall.
Joining siding panels "overlapping"
Another method of joining panels when extending them along the length is also allowed - overlapping. In this case, each subsequent panel should overlap the previous one in length by 2.5-3 cm, and the joints should be spaced apart.
When installing short panels in narrow openings, such as between windows, I left the vertical J-bars not nailed on top so that when inserting the panel they could be bent slightly. I nailed these strips once the short panel was in place and secured.
On one side, the siding panels have a number of holes for fastening to the wall with nails and a protrusion of the locking part, which allows the panels to be connected to each other. On the other hand, there is a longitudinal edge curved inward; this bend is the counter part of the lock. The panels are mounted with an overlap - first, the locking part of the top panel is brought into engagement with the protrusion on the bottom, and then the top panel is attached to the base (sheathing) with nails or self-tapping screws.
Installation diagram of overlapping siding panels
Conclusion
I spent approximately 22,500 rubles - $650 - on finishing the house with siding (the amount is indicated without taking into account the cost of insulation).
Note: The surface area of the walls and gable covered with siding was 112 square meters. m.
Preparatory work - minor repairs old sheathing, installation of sheathing and insulation of the walls took me about 4 days, installation of siding panels - 3 days. In total, I spent 7 days completing the work of covering the house with siding and insulating the walls.
What happened? Let's look at the photo:
Photo of a house with old cladding
- became
Photo of the house with the new one vinyl siding as finishing
Also, finishing with siding and installing an additional layer of insulation brought me another positive point:
- before finishing the house, per month average temperature in winter - 10 degrees I burned about 480 cubic meters. m of gas, then after finishing the walls of the house with siding and insulating them, gas consumption decreased to 380-390 cubic meters. m
- siding is also reliable protection walls of the house from exposure to precipitation, which helps to increase the service life of the wooden structure of the house.
Attention! This article shows prices as of 2009.
This inexpensive material for finishing facades it is capable of performing not only decorative function. It is strong enough and can protect the building from drafts and piercing winds, and the walls or insulation from rain and snow. Installing siding with your own hands is not at all difficult and takes a minimum of time.
Which siding is better?
Read also: How to insulate a private house with your own hands: roof, walls and foundation, description of thermal insulation materials offered on the market (Photo & Video) + Reviews
Watering flowers
Most people most often associate siding with lightweight vinyl (PVC) panels. However, this group of materials for finishing facades includes any types of panels equipped with special locking fasteners. On one side there are special protrusions, on the other there is an inwardly curved edge. When the protrusion of one sheet is inserted into the bend of another panel, they are securely fastened together with a click.
In addition to PVC panels, there are several other types of siding:
1 aluminum: this material is more durable than vinyl and is not afraid of corrosion; however, it is characterized by excessive flexibility - with strong blows dents appear on it, which are very difficult to remove; plus the paint it is painted with peels off over time
2 steel: These high strength products are mainly used for decoration industrial facilities, especially fire hazardous; main disadvantages – heavy weight, and also a considerable price
3 fiber cement: its composition, in addition to cement, includes synthetic or natural fibers, serving as a reinforcing layer; the material looks very decorative; it can be used to imitate wood, brick or natural stone; strong enough, not afraid of mold, fire, provides better sound insulation than metal siding, is not afraid of temperature changes, but is able to absorb moisture
4 wooden: environmentally friendly material, impregnated with special compounds, can last long time; the building decorated with it looks very solid; however, this material is still less practical and durable than similar products made of vinyl or metal
5 ceramic: high strength and protective properties are due to the composition - it is obtained by firing special types of clay; undoubted advantages are resistance to ultraviolet radiation (such materials practically do not fade in the sun), low water permeability, variety of textures; disadvantages – heavy weight, increased fragility
6 Siding sizes varies: panels can be 2-6 m long and 10-30 cm wide. The average sheet thickness is 10 mm. The basement is sold separately, the thickness of which is greater than usual. It is 3-4 mm
The industry produces panels in sufficient quantities shades: from the color of almond, peanut or walnut to shades of fern, poppy seeds or mimosa flowers. There are also products on sale that imitate log, as well as brick, natural stone.
Read also: The face of your home: finishing materials for facades. Description of the most popular types with their advantages and disadvantages (Photo & Video) + Reviews
Panel forming type
Its panels can take the form:
- flat(single)
- "herringbone": their cut actually resembles a herringbone pattern; can only be laid horizontally
- "ship board": differs from the herringbone by a double bend
- blockhouse: material imitating a log, rounded or profiled timber
Vinyl panels bright colors fade under the influence of ultraviolet radiation faster than calm siding pastel shades. Plus, dark panels heat up much faster in the sun.
How much material will be required for finishing?
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Before installing siding, you should find out how many panels, connecting, corner, external profiles, as well as window framing elements, soffits, and wind boards you will need.
It is easy to calculate the required number. It is necessary to find out the total area of the walls by multiplying the length and width of each of them and adding the resulting numbers. From this amount it is necessary to subtract the area occupied by windows and doors. If the house is attic, we will also find out the area of the walls attic floor. Add the result to the resulting amount.
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Let's say you get a figure equal to 140 square meters. m. Area of one standard sheet is 0.85 sq. m. (This parameter is always indicated on the packaging). We divide the total area of the walls by the area of one sheet: 140: 0.85 = 164.7 pieces. Round the result to 165.
With proper cutting, the waste size is no more than 5-7%. We add this amount to the resulting quantity: 165 + 8 = 173 pieces. In a similar way We calculate the required number of sheets or rolls of thermal insulation.
Number of additional elements
The starting bar is attached to the bottom of the house - it will hold bottom row . To calculate its quantity, we change the width of each of the 4 walls. Add up the resulting amount. For example, (8 + 12) *2 = 40 m. Add to the total the length of the profiles that will be attached above windows and doors(the starting bar will need to be attached in these places as well). We divide the resulting figure by the length of the panel. You can find out this parameter in the attached documentation. The length of the finishing profiles will be exactly the same. The only difference is that you will attach them on top of the house, and also under doors and windows.
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In order to calculate the number of external (external) planks with which you can hide the edges of the cladding at the corners of the house, you need to measure the height of the building, multiply it by four, and then divide the resulting number by the length of the plank. If the house has curves, you will need to know the number of exterior planks required.
The number of joining strips depends on the total area of the walls. For clarity, you can draw the layout of the walls of the house and calculate how many panels will be laid on each of them, as well as how many docking elements this will require. The length of standard strips is 3 m.
You will need to purchase a J-profile for edging windows and doors. A window profile will need to be purchased only if the windows, like the doors, are recessed into the wall and extend beyond the plane of the siding. If they are in the same plane as the panels, the window profile is replaced with platbands.
Most additional elements can be spliced. But to collect platbands from scraps or window profiles not recommended - you will need to purchase 4 strips for each window and door.
You will also need soffits to trim the eaves (edge) of the roof., wind boards for finishing gable slopes. If you are afraid of making a mistake, you can check your calculations with a calculator program.
Online calculator
Preparing the base
Before starting work, you will need to temporarily dismantle the incoming parts of the facade - window sills, ebbs. Fasteners need to be removed lighting fixtures, canopies and awnings.
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Walls must be checked for cracks and crevices. If any are found, they are primed and then sealed. sand-cement mortar. Large cracks and potholes are pre-reinforced with metal mesh. To protect against moisture, all wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic. After thorough cleaning, all surfaces affected by fungus must also be treated with an antiseptic or chlorine.
It is better to fix poorly nailed boards. If there are plants near the building that can grow inside the sheathing, they are dug up along with the roots.
Step-by-step installation of siding
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Window trims are installed as follows:
- The upper profile is cut on both sides and then folded back. Water will flow down these folds.
- After cutting the side strips, pieces of material those interfering with the connection are removed
- Connecting the top and side strips so that the bent ones are inside
- The lower profiles are mounted in the same way. The only thing is that you need to bend the strips not on the bottom, but on the side strips. They are then placed on the lower
Step-by-step video instructions for installing siding in the area of window openings will be given below.