After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam, pieces of plaster stick out, and the wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closing in various ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.
There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with starting profile and without it. Both are given with step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.
Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles
This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.
After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.
The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.
Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.
Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can set it evenly by placing it in in the right places pieces of plywood, thin planks, etc.
Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.
It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having made a paper stencil, we outline it on the plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.
We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.
Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.
We put it in place again, take the cylinder with polyurethane foam and using short “sprays” we fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.
There are several points when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.
Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.
Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smoother, it is easier to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or whetstone(half a circle, as in the photo).
We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.
Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.
On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. After plastic part insert it into the cut-out groove, align it as needed, fill the rest of the gap with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.
To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.
Squeeze the strip into the crack, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp cloth. soft cloth or a sponge. This operation must be performed on small areas and wipe it carefully - clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - immediately - the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.
After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), the acrylic may be drawn into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.
That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.
When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or white PVC wall panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, to same thing if front layer The plastic is thin (cheap) and the jumpers are visible in the light. In sandwich panels and plastic window sills there is no such thing. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.
Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile
The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.
A wooden block is attached along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face equal to angle slope installation. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.
We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.
You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.
When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.
At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.
Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.
The width of the plastic panel should be larger than the slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.
The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.
We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.
Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.
After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.
If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.
Video
For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.
Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.
And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. That's possible.
The importance of finishing the window afterwards is not always realized by customers. Because of this, subsequently, many people complain that they installed advertised double-glazed windows, but there is draft from the window. In fact, the problem is that without finishing, the entire work cannot be considered fully completed.
The quality of installation of a plastic window depends on the quality of finishing of the slopes.
Finishing a plastic window with your own hands will allow you to create not only a beautiful appearance window, but also significantly extend its service life.
After the plastic windows are installed in the room, the next stage of work begins - creating slopes. Correctly finishing a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive, finished look to the opening.
Correctly finishing a plastic window with your own hands allows you to create an attractive, finished look to the opening.
Slopes are considered to be all wall surfaces that are located near windows. Slopes are external (located on the outside of the window) and internal (located on the inside windows). Most often, everyone is interested in the internal slopes. If it is better to entrust the installation to professionals, then it is more advisable to do the finishing yourself.
Properly made slopes play not only an aesthetic role, they also have thermal insulation qualities. Slopes help protect assembly seams, prevent windows from fogging, and prevent the destruction of polyurethane foam. Used to create slopes various types materials.
Interior finishing with plaster
Slopes using plaster have more disadvantages than advantages. Over time, the plaster begins to burst and crack, losing its original color. The installation itself is also not entirely convenient; it requires a lot of time and effort for high-quality execution. The plaster is applied in several layers, each layer must be dried and cured. After which the surface is primed and finally painted. This takes one to two weeks. Plaster slopes do not create necessary thermal insulation, and when it gets too cold, the windows will fog up.
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Regular drywall
The only drawback in using it is the plasterboard’s fear of moisture. Therefore, gypsum boards should only be installed in rooms with low humidity levels.
Slopes made from plasterboard are quite durable. They have an even and attractive appearance. Drywall is insulated, and this gives decent thermal insulation properties slopes The only drawback in using it is the plasterboard’s fear of moisture. Therefore, gypsum boards should only be installed in rooms with low humidity levels.
The process of installing plasterboard slopes is labor-intensive: puttying, priming and painting are required. They can be done faster than plaster slopes. Although the installation time also depends on the qualifications of the technician.
Plasterboard finishing is an intermediate option in terms of price and quality. To create a neat joint around the perimeter of the window, use a special plastic or metal corner. Such slopes can be covered with a layer of paint, liquid plastic, decorative plaster or transparent wood-look furniture film. Using the latter option, you get a completely smooth surface that is easy to clean and well suited for use in the kitchen.
Plasterboard finishing of windows is often chosen when there is a need to hide slopes with very damaged openings. In this case, treatment with a primer or antibacterial impregnation is used.
Avoid leaving any air space between the plasterboard sheathing and the wall that could allow water to enter. Otherwise, stains may appear on the finishing coating and deformation of the slope may occur.
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Installing plastic
Plastic slopes can be quickly installed, they do not fade, are fairly easy to clean and have an attractive appearance that harmonizes with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade).
This is the most common and universal method. Plastic slopes can be quickly installed, they do not fade, are fairly easy to clean and have an attractive appearance that harmonizes with the windows themselves (it is advisable to choose the same shade). When installing such slopes, it is used mineral wool, which provides the necessary thermal insulation, sound insulation and water resistance. You can make them quite easily with your own hands. Slopes made of plastic have a fairly decorative appearance, a flat and smooth surface, long term operation (equal to service time). They can be made fairly quickly (within about two hours). Install plastic slopes without additional work for puttying and painting. They have a good degree of vapor impermeability, which protects walls and foam insulation from freezing.
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Tools and materials
Before starting work, stock up necessary set tools.
- Plastic strips 8 mm thick.
- U-shaped strip of plastic (the so-called starting strip).
- F-shaped strip of plastic.
- Wooden slats about 12 mm thick.
- Insulation material (usually mineral wool is used).
- Scissors and metal knife.
- Construction stapler with staples.
- Construction level.
- White silicone.
- Self-tapping screws (4.5 mm and 95 mm).
- Drill or hammer drill.
If the window has recently been installed, it is better not to remove the protective film until the work is completed.
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Installation steps
Wooden slats are placed around the entire perimeter of the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. The slats are placed flush to the walls.
- Wooden slats are placed around the entire perimeter of the window. To fix them, use 95 mm screws. The slats are placed flush to the walls. To prepare the wall surface, a hammer drill and a drill are used as needed. To obtain perfectly smooth slopes, perform vertical mount to the wall of the slats, level.
- It is necessary to fill a U-shaped strip along the outer edge of the window. For fastening, use 4.5 mm self-tapping screws. A slope strip is inserted into the gutter of this strip. The joints of the U-shaped strips should make it possible to install the plastic at specified angles. Therefore, when crossing U-shaped strips, it is necessary to partially cut off the corners with a knife, thereby ensuring an even and smooth joint on the inside.
- The F-shaped strip is being installed. Its groove should be located opposite the previously installed groove of the U-shaped strip. In the rest of the part, which is located above the opening, the F-groove must be cut off. This must be done because top part F-strips should be overlapped. This strip must be attached to a wooden batten using a construction stapler. After joining, all excess parts of the F-strips should be cut off with metal scissors. This method is convenient because it does not require further gluing of wallpaper around the window. The F-strip covers all defects.
- The plastic is installed in the grooves while the insulation is laid at the same time. Here it is important to measure the size of the plastic as accurately as possible. If the joints cannot be made perfectly smooth, you can rub them with white silicone.
External finishing is much more important than internal finishing, since polyurethane foam, left without protection from ultraviolet sunlight that destroys it, very quickly deteriorates and becomes unusable.
It is advisable that the installation of all slopes be carried out the next day after installing the window, when the foam is already sufficiently dry. Polyurethane foam can be used as a thermal insulation material. To receive optimal performance Installation of slopes and window sills is best done simultaneously.
Many, trying to save money, order installation without exterior and windows. Some believe that internal beauty is more important than external beauty and do not finish the window from the street side, leaving the installation seams without protection from the outside. In fact, it is much more important than the internal one, since the polyurethane foam, left without protection from the ultraviolet rays of the sun that destroys it, very quickly deteriorates and becomes unusable. If you want to save money, then it is better to wait with the interior decoration. External treatment must be carried out as soon as possible after installation.
Nothing decorates a window better than well-executed slopes. At first glance, finishing window slopes with your own hands is an easy task to solve. In fact, this is not true. Before starting work, you must study the technology and then skillfully apply it, since correct slopes– this is not only the finished look of the window, but also an important technical point. So, let’s take a closer look at what “what kind of animal these slopes are, and what they eat it with.”
Of course, the average person may immediately ask: “Are they really that necessary?” Without interior decoration the process of installing PVC windows is considered incomplete, since the main task of the slopes is to protect the mounting foam that fills the gap between the wall and the frame from the influence external factors. This material will serve you for a long time only if it is not exposed to air and sunlight.
The consequence of the lack of slopes inside or their improper installation are:
- appearance black mold due to increased humidity on slopes;
- drafts in the apartment;
- fogging of windows and their rapid wear.
There are several types of materials for interior window decoration. We will present them below.
Methods for finishing slopes
Surely, in almost any city in our country you can find companies offering services for installing window slopes inside, but, frankly, this procedure is not cheap. In this regard, significant savings for family budget there will be a choice in favor of finishing it yourself. Although finishing window slopes with plastic seems complicated and overwhelming, in capable hands everything is going wrong.
Before you start finishing works should be carried out preparatory stage: dust removal and old paint(if any) and impregnation of the walls with an antiseptic primer.
The surface has been prepared, and now let’s look at what types of finishing of window slopes exist:
- plastering;
- plasterboard finishing;
- plastic finishing.
Let's figure out what the essence of each method is.
Plastering slopes
Finishing method internal slopes plaster was very popular at one time. This option is suitable for use in houses made of brick, monolith and stone. For wooden buildings Other methods will be more suitable.
In areas where serious frosts are possible in winter, the use of modern heat-insulating plaster will be relevant. This mixture prevents freezing of slopes. 
Stages of making plastered slopes with your own hands:
- applying the plaster mixture to the slopes in several layers. Important: the next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Plastering lasts one to two weeks;
- foaming gaps;
- surface primer;
- puttying and painting slopes.
The method of finishing slopes using plaster compounds has a number of serious disadvantages that outweigh the positive qualities of the method. These include:
- inconvenience and complexity of the procedure;
- the high cost of the materials used (cheap mixtures eventually lead to the passage of cold air through the window);
- the formation of gaps due to differences in the properties of the plaster mixture and the plastic of the window;
- fogging of windows due to lack of required thermal insulation.
Plus, for correct execution This work requires professional skills.
Due to the above-mentioned disadvantages of finishing slopes with plaster, some experts do not even recommend considering this method as a do-it-yourself finishing option.
Finishing slopes with plasterboard
The use of plasterboard for interior windows is a transitional finishing option in terms of quality and cost of work.
There are three options for attaching drywall to the surface of the openings:
- metal profile;
- adhesive mixtures;
- polyurethane foam.
Most often, a metal profile is used, since its installation is simple and the structure is very durable. They work with foam when using the previous options is irrational. For example, there is nowhere to attach the metal profile, or there is no possibility of applying glue to the surface of the opening. Beginners in finishing slopes often work with adhesive mixtures.
Do-it-yourself installation of plasterboard slopes using metal profile includes:
- attaching an L-shaped profile along the border of the frame (base for drywall);
- covering the profile with sealant;
- filling the space between the opening and the slope with stone wool;
- gluing drywall;
- sealing gaps with sealant;
- puttying and decorating slopes (painting, applying decorative plaster or films imitating various textures).
Among the advantages of plasterboard slopes, they note: long service life, smooth and aesthetic appearance, excellent thermal insulation qualities.
The disadvantage of this material is that it is afraid of moisture. In this regard, plasterboard slopes are not installed in rooms with high humidity.
Finishing slopes with plastic
Using plastic panels for finishing window openings- quite common modern method. The use of plastic helps to achieve a completely straight surface that is superior in quality to drywall and does not require decorating work. Such slopes do not require periodic repairs at all. Easy care includes only cleaning from dust and dirt using a damp cloth.
Let's consider what materials are available on the market to perform this method.
Plastic panels
The method of finishing windows is very popular plastic lining. It is attached to the opening with polyurethane foam, which does not require the use of special tools, and this is an absolute advantage of the method. But, as in the case of plaster, it will not be easy for a person who does not have special skills to achieve an ideal result. The work time is about three hours for one opening.
PVC panels
PVC panels are a composition of plastic sheets connected by stiffening ribs, with free space in the gap between them.
Nowadays, specialized PVC slope systems are sold in stores. Their parts are purposefully manufactured taking into account the parameters of both conventional and non-standard window openings. Therefore, almost anyone can do window cladding with their own hands using this method. The only drawback of ready-made PVC systems is their high cost.
Sandwich panels
Unlike simple panels PVC sandwich panels have a structure consisting of three layers of plastic, between two of them there is insulating material. Polyurethane foam is often used as insulation, which meets all safety and environmental friendliness parameters.
Among the advantages of sandwich panels, it can be noted that when installing them, there is no need for insulation of slopes, because these panels have excellent thermal insulation properties. But these panels are also imperfect and can delaminate when exposed to humid air.
Finishing window slopes with plastic panels is a popular and multi-purpose method. Such slopes:
- you can quickly do it yourself;
- under the influence of sunlight they do not change color and are not deformed;
- easy to wash;
- resistant to static electricity and other negative factors;
- they look quite presentable (you can very easily choose a material that perfectly matches the color of the window frame).
Slopes are faced with PVC panels without unnecessary steps: puttying and painting. They have a good ability to keep steam out.
Durability PVC material panels to temperature differences within ±20 degrees Celsius – another positive quality such slopes.
Let's look at how the basic steps for lining slopes with plastic panels are performed.
Stages of cladding window openings with PVC panels with your own hands
Before proceeding with the actual facing of the slopes, it is necessary to clear the surface of debris and remove protruding areas of the foam. Next, be sure to treat the walls with antifungal substances.
Frame making
Along the entire border window opening nailed down wooden blocks 0.8-1 cm thick, 2.5-3 cm wide. To secure them, 9.5 cm self-tapping screws are used. The bars are placed in such a way that they do not extend beyond the edge of the wall. The bars are fixed vertically, aligned to the building level, so that the slopes are completely level. Note that when choosing bars for a frame, be sure to pay attention to the quality of the product and material. The wood must be dry and not damaged by pests, and the bars themselves must be even and smooth and without blue discoloration, which is an indicator of the beginning of decay of the material.
PVC panels have sufficient rigidity, which does not allow them to mask small gaps at the junction of the window frame and the opening. These cracks may cause drafts in the apartment in the future. To avoid this, during cladding of slopes, insulation is laid between the surface of the opening and the panels. As thermal insulation material use: isolon, polystyrene foam or stone wool. It is important to lay the insulation in such a way that its thickness does not exceed the thickness of the frame bars. Fix it with glue.
Using 4.5 mm self-tapping screws, a U-shaped plastic profile is attached to the wall of the opening along the window junction border. In the future, a PVC panel will be inserted into it. The side elements are fixed directly to the frame. The lower horizontal section of the profile is attached directly to the surface of the opening, the upper one is fixed with one edge on the block, and the other edge is inserted into the groove of the vertical profile. In the places where sections of the U-shaped frame adjoin, the corners are slightly trimmed with a knife to make a neat joint.
The F-shaped profile is fixed on the outer border of the window opening so that its wide part is on the front side (the fastening resembles a corner). This element is attached to the wall using liquid nails. Surplus F-shaped profile after joining they are cut off. Note that this element of the slope design hides the uneven cut of the wallpaper along the perimeter of the window opening. The F-shaped profile is secured only after the PVC panels are inserted into the grooves of the frame (the grooves are first partially filled with acrylic sealant).
Installation of PVC panels
Before PVC installation panels in the frame, measure the length and width of the slope as accurately as possible. If the width of the plastic is greater than the vertical opening, then cut off the excess part using a stationery knife. After installing the plastic, the joints are “ennobled”: rubbed with silicone white or using liquid plastic, they are covered with a polyvinyl chloride corner, matching the color of the panels.
So we've reviewed all possible ways internal lining of slopes. Based on the totality of advantages and disadvantages, procedure time, longevity of the result, most experts agree that optimal material For finishing window openings with your own hands, use PVC panels. But the choice suitable option, without a doubt, belongs to the performer. Level to help you!
Beautiful and practical plastic windows have already been installed, but this is only half the work. In order for the window to cope with its functional responsibilities and your house was really warm and cozy, you need to install reliable slopes, since during the installation process window design the opening is subject to destruction, cracks and potholes may appear, which must be repaired as quickly as possible.
Today, there are several ways to finish slopes after installing plastic windows, each of them has its own pros and cons. So, plastic window finishing options:
- finishing with plaster;
- plastic finishing;
- plasterboard finishing.
The oldest traditional way- finishing with plaster
The indisputable advantage of this method is affordable price necessary materials. During the finishing process, a dry mixture based on gypsum or cement is used. The simplicity of this method allows you to seal the slopes yourself without the involvement of specialists. The only negative point is the duration of the process.
First you need to clean the surface of the slopes from dust, dirt and foam (it can be cut off with a utility knife). Next you can start plastering. We should not forget that the surface must be flat. That is why craftsmen recommend using beacons to level the surface. There is no need to insulate the slopes, since the mounting foam used to install the window structure also acts as a heat and sound insulating material.
Please note: in accordance with the standards, slopes must be made at a certain angle.
In order not to stain the window sill and window frame during work, it is necessary to carefully cover them, for example, with construction tape or film. Next you need to install beacons, optimal distance 3-5 cm directly from the window frame. It is necessary to take into account that the layer of plaster should cover not only the foam, but also the window frame by approximately 1 cm. After installing the beacons, you need to additionally establish a rule as an additional guide. For these purposes, you can use a flat wooden plank of a suitable size. During the plastering process, it is important to distribute the mixture evenly over the entire area. After the layer has hardened, you need to remove the guide and carefully rub the corners. After the layer of finishing plaster has dried, you can begin painting.
Plastic window trim with PVC panels
The most aesthetically pleasing are slopes made of PVC profile. Manifold color range of this material allows you to create original solution in the interior. The advantages of this method include ease of installation, but the disadvantages are the high cost of the material.
When choosing a material, you need to pay attention to its properties; the plastic must be resistant to mechanical damage and exposure to sunlight. For finishing you will need following materials and tools:
- plastic;
- U-shaped profile;
- F-shaped profile;
- wooden slats (thickness 10-15 mm);
- level;
- drill;
- stapler, staples;
- self-tapping screws;
- mineral wool;
- white silicone.
The work process must begin by securing a wooden strip around the perimeter of the wall (it should be flush to the wall and not protrude) and strengthening the profiles. Next, you should deal with insulation; for these purposes, mineral wool is the ideal material. Then you can proceed directly to covering with plastic. After this, you can decorate the ends between the wall and the slope with external plastic corners.
Plastic window finished with plasterboard
For work you will need the following tools and materials:
- drywall;
- polyurethane foam;
- wooden slats;
- drill;
- self-tapping screws;
It should be noted that finishing slopes with your own hands using plasterboard is quite a troublesome task. First you need to choose a material; it is better to choose moisture-resistant drywall, since it does not absorb moisture at all, therefore mold or mildew will not form, which is especially important for our climatic conditions.
First, you need to measure the depth of the opening as accurately as possible, starting from the window frame and to the outer edge of the wall. Since the wall may be uneven, it is advisable to take measurements in several places. Next, you need to “cut” the drywall; during the cutting process, you need to add 2-3 mm in reserve. The material is cut with a sharp knife along a ruler, after which it must simply be broken off (the process is reminiscent of cutting glass).
Next, you need to “try on” the resulting blanks, after which you can begin installation. For these purposes, you need to attach wooden slats around the perimeter of the window, after which plasterboard blanks are attached directly to them with self-tapping screws. During the installation process, you periodically need to check how smoothly the wooden base slats lay on the wall.
It's time to take care of heat and sound insulation. The most suitable material in in this case is polyurethane foam. It needs to be carefully filled in the voids that have formed between the drywall panels and the wall. As an option, you can also use mineral wool to insulate and soundproof plasterboard slopes.
Please note: as soon as the foam dries, you must immediately remove its excess, and then plaster all the seams. The protruding edges of plasterboard panels can be cut off with coarse sandpaper. To ensure that the slope corners on the side of the walls are perfectly smooth, you can use an aluminum plaster corner.
Next you need to apply it to the slopes finishing plaster a thin layer; after complete drying, the surface must be treated with fine-grained sandpaper. Next you need to paint the plasterboard slopes water-based paint in two layers. In order not to stain the window frame with paint, you can attach special masking tape around its entire perimeter.
Finishing slopes is a troublesome process and requires availability necessary tools and practical work skills. This kind of work should not be put off until long box. The technology for installing plastic window structures involves the use of mounting foam to fix the frame in the opening. This material is susceptible to corrosion (dampness, temperature changes, ultraviolet rays), which is why after installing the window structure it is important to immediately begin finishing the slopes from the inside and outside, otherwise, after the polyurethane foam loses its properties and is deformed, it may well be necessary reinstallation of the entire structure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA6K960I2rE Video can't be loaded: How I made slopes on plastic windows. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EA6K960I2rE)
Work such as installing skirting boards and ceiling cornices, finishing door and window slopes from the premises and on the facade are considered a mere trifle compared to general construction and repair activities. But they are the ones who put the finishing touches and create the finished look of the interior.
But it's not just about beauty. High-quality slopes strengthen the opening, protect it from destruction, and play an important role in the thermal insulation of the building.
After installing the double-glazed window, slopes are installed, the material for the manufacture of which is selected taking into account such parameters as the climatic characteristics of the region, the purpose of the room, requirements for the appearance and style of finishing, practicality, price, etc.
The main selection criterion is which side of the building - internal or external - the cladding is made from. It is clear that not all materials used in rooms with stable temperature and humidity conditions are suitable for the facade of a house.
For interior decoration
Basically, in rooms with normal humidity and constant temperature, slopes can be made from any materials. The main criteria here are appearance, compatibility with the interior, and ease of maintenance.
Most often, the internal cladding of windows is made of the following materials:
- Plastering followed by painting;
- Drywall, plywood, chipboard and other sheet materials, which also serve as the basis for subsequent finishing;
- Tree;
- Plastic;
- Ceramic tiles;
- Artificial stone for cladding windows, etc.
It also matters what the double-glazed windows themselves are made of. If they are wooden, plastic slopes You can only spoil the appearance of the window and reduce its cost. But the cladding of a plastic window may well be made of sandwich panels or PVC panels.
These same materials, along with smooth tiles or ceramic tiles (see), are the most practical for finishing openings in wet rooms or those in which you often have to do wet cleaning and disinfection - in kitchens, bathrooms, hospital wards, child care facilities, etc.
For exterior decoration
Cladding the window opening from the outside reduces the above list of materials by several positions. First of all, this applies to plasterboard and other sheet materials based on wood waste, which are completely unsuitable for operation on outdoors.
Under the influence high humidity, direct impact snow and rain, sudden temperature fluctuations, they are deformed and destroyed. Not suitable for exterior finishing And decorative tiles under brick or stone based on gypsum - it is also very afraid of moisture.
On the other hand, this list can be expanded with the following materials:
- Metal. Slopes are made of galvanized steel with colored polymer coating;
- Facing brick or clinker tiles;
- Siding. Or rather, special additional elements intended for finishing openings on facades sheathed with this material.
Please note. When choosing an option for exterior window cladding, what the building is made of or decorated with is of great importance. It is hardly appropriate to glue artificial stone on them if the facade is wooden. But metal slopes They look great in any combination, provided that the color is chosen correctly.
In general, there are nuances in choosing suitable materials many. For example, if there are no problems with straight openings when installing any of them, then the cladding round windows or openings with arched vaults imposes certain restrictions.
And the choice here is no longer so great - it’s either plaster, or finishing with small-piece tiles, or using flexible materials. For example, drywall, which, when wetted, can be given the required form. After drying, the material returns to all its performance characteristics.
For window sills
The lining of the window sill can be made of the same material as the slopes. But it is usually subject to more stringent requirements for strength, resistance to damage and moisture, and other parameters. Therefore, it is not recommended to make it from plasterboard, ordinary plastic, or veneer gypsum tiles.
Today on construction market There are a lot of offers of ready-made window sills, which only need to be adjusted in length and width. They are made from specially treated wood, durable plastic, moisture resistant MDF boards and chipboard with decorative plastic or laminated coating.
Cast window sills from artificial stone. They are made individually after taking measurements and selecting the desired shape, and are installed by the manufacturer. The pleasure is not cheap, but, as they say, it lasts forever.
Unfortunately, this option is not affordable for everyone, and besides, if you want to change the interior, you will simply feel sorry for spending a lot of money. But there is another way to decorate the lower part of the window in an original way by installing a figured sawn sheet of durable moisture-resistant material and finishing it with porcelain stoneware or mosaic.
Thus, lined window sills look great, are not afraid of moisture and heavy loads, are scratch-resistant, and are easy to clean. And if desired, the tiles can be replaced during the next renovation.
The window sill is installed indoors and often performs additional features– countertops, stands for house plants, shelves for small household appliances in the kitchen.
And the external one involves installation along the lower edge of the ebb frame - an inclined structural element designed to drain water flowing from the window and protect the installation seam from moisture. The most common material for making flashings is galvanized and painted. polymer paint metal.
In a word, decorative cladding windows these days can be quite varied due to the availability huge amount traditional and modern materials. We are also encouraged by the fact that many of them are easy to install with your own hands, achieving not only aesthetically pleasing openings, but also increasing their operational properties.
Framing openings - examples of installing slopes from different materials
If desired, you can handle the work of finishing the slopes yourself, especially if we're talking about about installation of sheet materials. Some difficulty in the absence of practice is caused by plastering, gluing tiles and other “wet” processes.
If finishing is carried out with elements specially designed for this purpose, then the kit usually includes detailed instructions on installation, following which you can cope with the work without special knowledge and training. For example, if you do not know how to cover windows with siding, ask the seller for an installation diagram or look for recommendations on the website of a specific manufacturer.
Below we will talk about how to make window cladding yourself using the most common materials - plaster, drywall and plastic sandwich panels.
Plastering slopes
This finishing option is attractive primarily for its low cost and durability. To work, you only need a dry construction mixture diluted with water.
So:
- The work begins with rough leveling of the surface by cutting off the sagging concrete in the corners, after which it is cleaned of dirt and dust;
- The gaps between the wall and the double-glazed window are filled with mounting foam or tow soaked in a gypsum solution. In this case, it is necessary to leave a gap around the perimeter of the window frame, which will be filled with a solution;
- When these materials are dry, you can proceed directly to the plaster;
Please note. Before tiling the window, it is necessary to plaster and level the wall around it.
- Plastering begins by filling the gap around the box with mortar. When it dries a little, the mixture is applied from bottom to top to the entire plane of the slope and leveled with a trowel;
- If for leveling it is necessary to apply a thick layer of plaster, the work is carried out in several stages, applying a layer of no more than 5-7 mm at a time and allowing it to dry;
- It is desirable that the slopes are not perpendicular to the glazing plane, but slightly turned outward for better light penetration. The turning angles on both sides must match.
To avoid mistakes and make your work easier, beacons are installed along the frame and temporarily attached to the wall. wooden slats, controlling their verticality with a plumb line. Their edges will serve as alignment guidelines;
- The upper slope is finished in the same way, fixing the beacon and the rail horizontally and checking the level;
- After the solution has dried, the slats are removed and the angle between the wall and the slope is drawn;
- The final stage is grouting the surface with finishing putty. After which the slopes can be painted.
Both interior and exterior finishing are performed in this way. But for external slopes it is better to take special frost-resistant plaster, which is more resistant to difficult conditions. climatic features our country.
Installation of plastic slopes
Most often people ask the question - how to cladding windows with sandwich panels? This is a material in which polystyrene foam is located between two outer layers of plastic - excellent thermal insulation material, protecting the window opening from moisture penetration and increasing its soundproofing characteristics.
The main advantage of plastic sandwich panels, in addition to those already mentioned, is their finished appearance - after installation, the slopes do not need additional finishing. And the use of special profiles facilitates installation and allows you to design joints as accurately as possible.
As a rule, such slopes are installed when replacing a double-glazed window by the installers themselves, but this work is paid for separately. You can save money by doing it yourself.
To do this, just watch the video, study the diagram below and follow our recommendations.
Sequence of work:
- After measurements, strips of the required height and width are cut out of the slab;
- The inner edge of the strip is placed behind the window frame, after which the space between the wall and the future slope is filled with foam. When expanded, it will press the panel tightly against the window block;
- On outer part a leveling rail is attached to the opening, which determines the angle of rotation of the slope;
- The panel is glued to the slope using liquid nails and snapped onto the rail using a special profile. Or, if there is a large gap between the panel and the slope wall, it is filled with heat-insulating material;
- The joint between the wall and the sandwich panel is covered with decorative plastic corner, and the joints between adjacent panels are filled with color-matched sealant.
Drywall slopes
For making slopes it is best to use moisture resistant drywall, resistant to natural humidity caused by condensation on the windows. If you took a regular one, it is advisable to coat it with a primer several times.
Cladding window openings with plasterboard differs little from installing plastic panels:
- The main difference is the installation around the perimeter of the L-shaped frame plastic profile, into which the plasterboard strips are inserted with their inner edge. Before this, acrylic sealant is applied to the profile;
- The distance between the wall and the drywall strip is filled with insulation;
- A layer of glue is applied to a narrow section of the wall closer to the outer edge and, using a level, the outer edge of the material is pressed down, achieving a vertical position;
- After installing all the elements, the seams between them, as well as the joints with the wall, are puttied in accordance with the rules adopted for working with drywall;
- Final stage – finishing putty and painting.
As you can see, everything is quite simple. The main thing is accurate measurements and constant level monitoring. Vertical for the side slopes and horizontal for the top ones.
Conclusion
It is the small details that allow us to judge the quality of the repair, and it is they that create the finished look of the interior. Knowing how the material is selected and how plastic windows are faced, you will avoid many mistakes and save time and money.
Even if you don’t do this yourself, competent supervision of performers often helps to detect defects and non-compliance with technology in time, which can subsequently lead to unpleasant consequences and additional costs.