Many people are engaged in breeding indoor plants. Sometimes there is a desire to grow something unusual, exotic. Among the green *pets* that have successfully taken root in city apartments, you can find pineapple and kiwi, mango and avocado, banana and coffee tree. Persimmon is not offended by the attention of experimenters - the heroine of this article. Like a true oriental beauty, she is capricious and requires a reverent attitude towards herself.
We wash the bones.
First of all, you need to take care of high-quality planting material. Choose a ripe, unfrozen fruit with intact skin. For final ripening, keep it in a warm place for some time. Finally, after enjoying the sweet pulp, begin to implement your plan. Immerse the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for a couple of days. This disinfectant water procedure extremely useful, since persimmon is not resistant to pathogenic microorganisms. By the way, in this way the seeds are tested for viability: specimens unsuitable for germination float to the surface.
Little tricks for big growth.
As a growth stimulator at home, you can use aloe juice diluted in warm water (half a glass - one teaspoon) or buy a ready-made bioregulator in the store. The seeds are placed between layers of gauze soaked in a solution and placed in plastic bag, closing it so that there is air in it.
To further speed up germination, the package is sent to the refrigerator on the second shelf (where the temperature is 5-6 degrees) for up to two months or, on the contrary, exposed to a temperature of 35-40 degrees for one to one and a half weeks. The top and sides of the seeds will also be treated with sandpaper - this little trick also helps the sprouts to hatch faster.
Smooth landing.
The prepared seeds are placed edge-on in a shallow pot filled with a damp mixture of sand and peat (1:1), to a depth of no more than one and a half centimeters. The top of the pot is covered with transparent cellophane or glass and placed in warm place, for example, on a battery. Regularly ventilate and moisten the soil. The first shoots will appear in two to three weeks.
Not every baby manages to independently get rid of the bone that sits tightly on the top of the stem. Knives and tweezers will come to the rescue. This surgical intervention is mandatory: otherwise the shoots will not be able to develop further and will die. Advice from experienced amateur gardeners: the seed will open more easily if you spray it generously with water, and leave the pot with the sprout warm overnight, placing it in a plastic bag.
To each his own.
After the appearance of the first two leaves, it is time for the plants, which by that time have reached 10-15 cm, to leave the cozy *communal apartment*: they need to be planted in separate pots. It is optimal if the pot contains a root ball and a little soil from below and on the sides.
Excess soil not filled with roots leads to its souring and the appearance of root rot. While the plant is small, you can cover it with a glass jar, remembering to periodically ventilate and spray it. From time to time, the time spent without thermal protection is increased, gradually accustoming the seedling to the conditions environment. After two months, the plant is transplanted into a large pot using the transshipment method.
Persimmon in winter.
A place under the sun.
Keep in mind that if you grow a persimmon from a seed, it will begin to bear fruit no earlier than after 7-8 years. The grafted plant bears fruit twice as fast. Persimmon blooms in June. At this time, you need to take it out into the open air - to the balcony or to the garden - for natural pollination by bees. The place should be windless, well lit, without direct sun rays. By winter, the leaves fall off and the plant enters a dormant stage. It is better if at this time it is in a dark place at low temperatures.
It is recommended to sprinkle the soil with wet sawdust. If your pet stays in the apartment for the winter, it is important not to let the soil and stem dry out. In early spring, the plant is transferred to a large pot, watered and placed in a bright place. IN further transplantation produced once every three to four years, but annually replace 5-7 cm of the top layer of soil.
Any whim.
Persimmon is a tropical plant that loves light, moisture and warmth. In order for it to grow into a strong tree at home, you need to take care of its comfort: provide additional artificial lighting 2-3 hours in the morning and evening, regular moderate watering, a warm place without drafts.
Every two months during the persimmon growth period, it is important to enrich the soil with a well-balanced mineral complex with a small nitrogen content, alternating it with organic fertilizers. To make the tree look more picturesque, its crown is given a spherical shape. To do this, the main (trunk) shoot is promptly pinched at a height of 30-50 cm. As the branching develops, two or three strong branches are left, limiting their length to 20-40 cm. The same is done with sprouts of the second and third orders.
As a result of simple manipulations and daily care, you get a fashionable decorative accent in home interior, subject pride of the owners and genuine interest of the guests!
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Bonsai persimmon
Who doesn’t love this oriental sweet fruit? Many people ask the question: is it really possible to grow this heat-loving tree here? How real! I found some tips for growing from seed in room conditions and growing in our harsh climate in open ground.So..What kind of fruit is this?Persimmon, or Diospyros (lat. Diospyros) is a genus of subtropical deciduous trees Ebony family. In many species, the fruits are edible - they are large orange fleshy berries with 2-10 seeds.
Other names: wild date, date plum.The Latin name of the genus, Diospyros, can be translated as “food of the gods.”
Homeland - China. Widely distributed in Japan and famous for its magnificent fruits. The common cultivated varieties are common or Caucasian persimmon (D. lotus), eastern persimmon (D. Kaki), and more winter-hardy virgin persimmon (D. Virginia); Breeders have obtained many varieties. Persimmon is propagated by seeds and grafting on seedlings of Caucasian and Virginia persimmon.
More than 200 species. One of popular varieties is "King".
Persimmon trees are long-lived: plants aged 400-500 years have been found in China. fruit tree persimmon reaches a height of 8-12 meters and is completely strewn with large (diameter up to 8 cm) fleshy fruits various shapes; its yield is about 250 kg. Persimmon, shaped like a small tree, has decorative look due to the variegated color of the leaves before falling and the fruits hanging on the tree for a long time after the leaves fall.
The leaves are dark green, turning red before falling, 8-12 cm long, 4-6 cm wide.
Depending on the variety, the flowers are dioecious, monoecious and rarely bisexual. Female flowers large, single; males are small, sitting in groups of 3-5 on short thin shoots.
Varieties are divided into three groups: with feminine flowers(Hiakume, Hachiya, Gosho-gaki), with male and female flowers (Geili, Zenji-maru), with female flowers, forming a small number of male flowers in some years (Fuyu). These varieties can be divided into three more groups: tart, astringent (Hachiya, Seedles, Tamapan, Tanenami), sweet, non-astringent (Fuyu, Chinebuli, 20th century), changing taste depending on the pollinator (Hiakume, Gosho-gaki, Zenji-maru , Gailey, Tsurunako).
Fruit - large fleshy berry 6-8 cm long and 4-5 cm wide, the skin is orange or red with a waxy coating. The color of the pulp depends on pollination - when pollinated it is dark in color. The weight of the fetus ranges from 200 to 300 g.
Persimmon is called the “plum of the gods” for its amazing sunny golden-orange fruits with sweet - delicate jelly-like or dense (in some varieties with a brown tint) - pulp and a delicate aroma reminiscent of apricot. Juicy fruits persimmons are not only beautiful and tasty, but very healthy and considered healing: they contain sugar, vitamin C, iron and other valuable vitamins and microelements.
The ripening period occurs in some varieties at the beginning, in others - at the end of October. More often than not, ripening coincides with the first frost, after which the fruit only becomes tastier.
So, how to grow persimmons from seeds yourself.
The seeds from freshly eaten fruit are washed, dried and placed in a pot of soil to a depth of 1-2 centimeters (there is experience in germinating persimmon seeds in cotton wool), covered with cellophane film and sent to a warm place. Since persimmons are most often eaten in autumn-winter period, you can put a pot with a bone on the radiator.
Persimmon germinates easily, but it has a very strong seed; sometimes after germination the sprout has to be helped and the shell carefully cut off to expose the leaves. Such persimmons can begin to bear fruit in the 6th year, and if you live in southern regions, then you can safely plant it on your personal plot.
Seeds germinate in 1-2 weeks. It's practically useless to hold any more. The pot, covered with cellophane, must be periodically ventilated, adding water as the soil dries 1.5 centimeters. After the sprout appears, the cellophane can be removed.
The persimmon sprout is quite long - 10-15 centimeters. There may be a seed left at the end of the sprout. Its valves are very tightly closed, and if the seed does not fall off within a couple of days, the sprout may die. Therefore, you can carefully help the sprout get rid of the seed. You can do this with a sharp knife, a needle or scissors; if the seed is very tight, you need to steam it (spray it, place it in a plastic bag and put it in a warm place overnight), after which the seed will come off much easier.
The sprouts grow very quickly, so you need to frequently transfer them to large pots. Insufficient space for the rapidly developing root system can lead to the death of the plant.
With a lack of substrate, the leaves stop growing and turn yellow.
Care
IN summer time care consists in keeping the tree, if possible, in a well-lit place, in the yard or on the balcony. To avoid leaf burn, the plant is gradually accustomed to new conditions and shaded a little in the first week. During the growing season, fertilizing is carried out 2 times a month. In the fall, in October - November, they are transferred to a room with a temperature of +3-5 degrees Celsius or a cellar. The top of the soil is covered with a layer of wet sawdust and systematically sprayed so that the soil does not dry out. In February-March, transshipment is carried out, if necessary, watered abundantly and placed in a bright place.
Young seedlings form into small trees. At the level of 0.3-0.5 m, pinching is done for branching. 2-3 apical shoots are left, and when they reach 20-40 cm, they are pinched to form branches of the 2nd order, 2-3 branches are also left, etc. A rounded tree 1.5 m high is formed. The plant is early-bearing, the first flowers appear in 3-4 years.
In room conditions or in winter garden a persimmon tree usually grows up to 1.5 meters (you can limit its growth by pruning, and the splendor of the crown by regular shaping). In summer, the persimmon tree is placed in a bright and wind-protected place outside, regularly watered and sprayed; flowering occurs in June. During the active growing season, persimmons are fed twice a month. mineral fertilizers with low nitrogen content. In winter, persimmons are kept cool (at a temperature of about 5 degrees, not higher than 10 degrees); the soil must be periodically moistened with soft water at room temperature, and the plant must be sprayed. Excessive watering very harmful and leads to the death of the persimmon tree.
Lower temperatures do not harm the fruits on the tree; on the contrary, their tannin content decreases and they are more likely to acquire an edible taste.
Persimmon flower
When does a persimmon planted with a seed begin to bear fruit?
Grafted trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 3-4 years after grafting, seed trees at 5-7 years, and in dry room air 1-2 years later.
What to feed persimmons with?
Feed the same as all other plants: it is better in the form of a compost extract.
Growing in open ground
Varieties
Based on the quality of the fruit, persimmon varieties can be divided into three groups. Various varieties, the fruits of which, in the presence of seeds, are sweet even in hard form. This group includes the varieties Hiakume and Zelenji-Maru. Impatient varieties. Regardless of the presence of seeds in the fruits, they become sweet and edible in solid form only after acquiring the color characteristic of the variety. The variety Delicious (Excellent Giro) belongs to this group. Constant varieties are always tart in their solid form and are suitable for consumption when their contents acquire a jelly-like consistency. This group includes the varieties Khachia and Kostata (Ribbed). One variety is included in the State Register of Plant Varieties of Ukraine - Sputnik. There are also varieties Nikitsky burgundy, Mider, Rossiyanka (self-fertile hybrid).
Elements of agricultural technology
Persimmons should be planted in areas of the site that are protected from prevailing winds, well-drained and warmed by the sun, without stagnant water. The distance between trees is 5-7 m. The dimensions of the planting holes are the same as when planting other fruit trees. crown formation They begin to form the crown when the plants reach a height of 1 m. Make sure that the height of the trunk is at least 50-60 cm. To lay the main skeletal branches the unfolded buds are left at a distance of 30-40 cm from the top, the rest are removed. On next year Of the developed shoots, 4-5 of the strongest ones are retained and evenly spaced around the trunk. The rest are deleted. Then, on each first-order crown branch, 2 second-order branches are left. On the branches of the second order, in turn, there are 2 branches of the third order. care
Care
includes the application of 10-30 kg of humus per 10 sq.m (than older tree, the more fertilizer to apply). If only minerals are added, you need to give 20-50 g of nitrogen, 60-90 g of phosphorus and 30-50 g of potassium per tree.
It is better to apply fertilizers in the spring. To give the plants fresh organic matter, you can sow green manure in August-September, which is dug up in the spring of next year. Green manure improves physical properties soil, enrich it nutrients, protect from washout (water erosion). Since persimmons are grown mainly in dry places, the trees must be watered regularly, at least once every 7-10 days. Harvesting Harvesting maturity occurs when the fruits acquire the color characteristic of the variety. It is necessary to collect fruits with great care, avoiding the formation of dents and scratches on them. It is strictly forbidden to knock down or shake off the fruits from the tree. The difficulty of picking accurately is that the persimmon stalk is short and very strong. It is necessary to pick the fruit with two hands, one supporting it, and the other unscrewing the stalk
Store in boxes or baskets. With the onset of frost, the fruits are frozen. As needed, the fruits are immersed in cold water, where they thaw without losing their taste and nutritional components. Hard, but already colored fruits can be ripened by immersing them in warm (30-35o) water. At the same time, the tart-tasting fruits become sweeter. the most interesting thing Everyone is interested in finding out what kind of pulp is hidden in the still hard persimmon fruits. It's not hard to guess. You need to look at the fruit from above. If the black stripes on the top form several circles, then you can be sure that all the flesh of the still hard fruit is sweet and brown (chocolate) in color. But the stripes can only cover a part - half or a quarter of the fruit. And then, where there are circles, the flesh is dark and sweet, and where there are no circles, it is light and tart. It turns out that these indicator circles are associated with pollination. Persimmon has a four-locular ovary. If the bees have worked, they have faithfully pollinated the flowers. In this way, each ovary can be pollinated separately. Of course, few people think about the biological secrets of pollination. Male trees do not bear fruit, and they are often cut down, thus the fruits are of poor quality. It is unknown who the black circle marks are intended for. But people widely use these signs, preferring to buy the kings, that is, fruits with a solid ring at the top.
Of course, persimmon is an exotic plant for our gardeners. But, as in any business, there are enthusiasts for its cultivation. For this reason, for beginning gardeners we recommend the “Rossiyanka” variety, hybrid variety which tolerates 35 degrees of frost. A ripe fruit weighs 150 -170g. The seedling will give its first harvest in two years. Trees under five years old bear 15-20 kilograms. Seniors - up to thirty. This tree does not need to be treated with any chemicals. “Russian” is a hybrid, so it bears fruit regardless of gender. Even in the Transcarpathian region, persimmon grows even better than in Rome. Because the air there is dry, and she loves moisture.
I have already had 3 years of experience in growing persimmons from seeds and this is already a decent-sized tree on the balcony. The experiment can be considered successful, except for some confusion about where to put the seedling? However, it is interesting, so I will share observations and practical tips.
Before you start growing, it makes sense to think about what you will do with the grown heat-loving tree. In average and northern climates, persimmons are unlikely to bear fruit or even bloom. It is simply a broad-leaved tree that needs care, is capricious, moisture-loving and sun-loving.
In winter, the tree sheds its leaves and will not be able to please you with anything. If the wintering temperature is not observed, the persimmon will simply die and will not wake up in the spring.
It is not difficult to germinate persimmon seeds. It is enough to place the persimmon seeds in a warm, humid environment and after 2-3 weeks you will see a strong white sprout.
Do not hesitate to plant, place the sprouted seeds in peat pot with fertile soil, one in each and provide necessary and abundant moisture. You can place pots of sprouts in a low container of water. It is better if there are no drafts nearby.
As a fertilizer, persimmon sprouts love sleeping black tea, but be careful not to breed fruit flies, which also love tea and will happily eat the tender roots of plants.
Do not place 2-3 seeds in one pot “to be on the safe side” - the germination rate of fresh seeds is almost 100%, and it is difficult to plant excess sprouts due to the great tenderness of young plants.
If you grow 2-3 grains at once, a leader will be determined among them, which will not allow other sprouts to grow normally, but they will significantly slow down its growth and desperately fight for life when broken off or cut off.
It is better to take persimmon seeds for planting from overripe sweet fruits, already translucent from ripeness. Large oblong seeds are the seeds.
An important point - do not leave the seeds to dry out; place them for germination right away, immediately after you have eaten the persimmon. Persimmon is an autumn product, so get ready for the fact that you will almost immediately have to prepare the plant for wintering - the most difficult period in the plant’s life.
Persimmon shoots are similar to bean shoots - a strong, thick sprout, which is crowned with a seed that has broken into halves. There is an important trick with this bone - no matter how sloppy the bone looks, do not even think about touching it, tearing it off, or helping it free from the tough skin if it seems to you that it is stuck or stuck.
Surprisingly, such help and any interference seriously weakens the plant. Wait for the first two leaves to appear and unfold. After this, the sprout can already be considered a seedling. Place the seedling in flower pot small size.
Transplanting a plant into too big pot undesirable - the plant will begin to actively develop the root system and may die.
A 1 liter pot is enough for the first year of persimmon life. You can leave the persimmon in a small pot for 3 years, but then you will have to worry about fertilizing and maintaining moisture between waterings.
Persimmons can stand on the windowsill for the first year or even two or three if the tops are properly plucked and the crown is formed. But let's not forget that persimmon is a tree that will feel a little cramped in the house. Decorative qualities persimmons are not too tall.
Wide leaves do not have the waxy gloss and grace of ficus. In the winter, persimmons necessarily shed all their leaves and need special temperature conditions. Temperatures around 0 or +5 degrees Celsius are desirable.
It is difficult to provide such a regime in an apartment in most cases. It is better to plant a mature three-year-old seedling in open soil.
Wintering persimmons grown from seeds
If there is no problem as to whether it is possible to grow persimmons from seeds, to germinate it is enough to spit the seeds into a cup of water and forget for a week, and then attach the resulting sprouts. The problem of how to survive the winter is quite relevant.
More than half of persimmon sprouts die in the first years during wintering. The sprout does not like rearrangements, therefore, until the last leaves fall, do not touch the seedling, do not turn it towards the light, or move it to a place more convenient for you.
Gradually reduce the intensity of watering. The leaves will turn yellow and fall off. Do not tear off yellowed leaves and remaining grains. Wait until they fall off on their own.
Cover the soil at the root of the plant with fallen leaves. Move the pot with the plant to a cool place. The desired temperature is from 0 to +5 degrees.
At this temperature, the persimmon sleeps peacefully. When the temperature rises, the plant may wake up at the wrong time and die from lack of sun. In the spring, when the plant's buds swell, you can move the persimmon to the windowsill, choosing a sunny, well-lit place.
In early spring, persimmons begin to grow, absorbing fertilizers and water in incredible quantities. Your task in this case is to look after the size of the future tree. Pinch the top bud about 20 cm from maximum height, which you define for the plant.
The optimal height is considered to be 1.5 meters. If you allow the plant to grow tall, it will pose problems. Immediately pinch the top bud at a height of about 1 meter to avoid pulling the persimmon. After the side shoots appear, pinch them too.
Wait for new shoots to emerge from dormant buds on the trunk and allow them to grow to maximum length. This will happen approximately in the 3-4th year of the plant’s life.
Only with the help of constant growth control will you be able to keep the persimmon within a decent framework, not allowing it to grow. Keep track of young shoots. Without your control, persimmons can throw out long young shoots up to 1 meter overnight. Stop such attempts, let them better foliage it will be dense, and the shoots will be frequent and not too long.
How to plant persimmons in a large pot
It’s time to transplant persimmons that have passed the 3-year mark into a large pot. Buy a big one clay pot with a deep tray, you've lived with persimmons long enough to understand how much they love water.
Fill one quarter of the pot with expanded clay or put any other medium drainage. Remove the persimmon from the old pot along with a lump of earth and slightly straighten the curled roots. Most likely all earthen lump will be solid roots, so be careful not to damage them.
Place the straightened roots in new pot and sprinkle with fresh purchased slightly acidic soil. You can use soil for garden plants, for a vegetable garden, soil for roses and begonias is also suitable. The soil should be loose and light.
If you don't want to purchase ready soil, you can make it yourself by mixing fertile land with light filling, for example, foam balls.
But when using self-collected soil, there is an increased risk of bringing pest larvae and weed seeds into the house, something that will have to be fought for a long time. From above, to the ground, after abundant watering, lay a layer of fallen leaves.
The leaves of the persimmon itself are ideal for shelter, since they are large, wide and quite dense. After transplanting, if temperatures are high, you will have to water the persimmon 2 times a day. Then gradually work up to daily watering. In cloudy weather, it is enough to water the plant 2 times a week.
Keep an eye on the leaves; if they begin to wither, droop, turn yellow, or curl into tubes, most likely the plant does not have enough moisture.
Well, congratulations, you have grown a tender persimmon in own home. It’s hard to say what you will do with it now. In the climate middle zone persimmons most likely will not survive in open ground.
Persimmon, despite its obvious southern origin, has never been for us exotic fruit. Even in an era of severe shortages, it regularly appeared on sale along with other familiar southerners - oranges, tangerines. But to find a persimmon growing in a plot in a zone with temperate climate, almost impossible. In this respect, she is as exotic as . But what does not grow in open ground can be successfully grown as indoor plant, at home. Many amateurs successfully grow not only persimmons from seeds, but also the same bananas, not to mention the usual lemons or. This does not require a greenhouse at all, you don’t even need it, it’s enough to follow a series of rules: simple rules preparing and planting persimmon seeds, and creating simple conditions for their germination.
Selecting persimmon seeds for planting
Unlike lemons or dates, not every persimmon fruit has seeds. But even those that exist are not guaranteed to sprout. Therefore, you will have to act using the “scientific poke” method. To increase the chances of success, you need to take seeds not from one persimmon fruit, but from several. It's even better if they are different varieties. At the same time, these fruits should not be frozen or damaged. Persimmons should be well-ripened and soft. At the same time, overripe fruit is also not entirely suitable. It is better to take slightly unripe persimmons and let them ripen at home. How many persimmon seeds are needed to guarantee viable seedlings? As practice has shown, no less than four or five, and better yet all ten. Even if most of them sprout, there is no firm certainty that all of them will be viable. Therefore, it is advisable to plant more persimmon seeds, get shoots from them, and then select the strongest ones from them.
How to grow persimmons from seeds at home
Conventionally, the entire process of growing persimmons can be divided into three main stages: preparing the seed for planting, planting, and caring for the seedlings.
Preparing persimmon seeds for planting
It includes two agrotechnical techniques -. I’ll tell you what they are in relation to persimmon seeds and clearly show them in the photo.
Stratification– keeping seeds in the cold before planting. This in simple words. In our case, this process is quite lengthy and will take at least a month. In my case, the process of stratification of persimmon seeds took all of one and a half months - from mid-winter to early spring. To enhance the effect of the bone, it is advisable to treat it with a stimulant. You can use epin, but treating persimmon seeds with aloe juice gives no worse (or even better) results. To do this, just wet a paper napkin with it and wrap the bones in it. Then they are placed in the refrigerator, in the coolest zone ( but not in the freezer!).
At the end of the stratification period, you can begin the second part of preparing persimmon seeds for planting - scarification. What it is? Scarification This is a violation (destruction) of the hard surface of the bone to facilitate and accelerate germination. This operation is delicate and requires care. If you are not sure that you can do it correctly, then it is better to skip it. Scarification of persimmon seeds is desirable, but not required. The simplest and safe way– sand the persimmon seeds with fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to treat the entire surface. It is enough to process the side surfaces, as in the photo.
For those who have grown plants from seeds or, this will not be the slightest difficulty. And for those who have already grown or, the process will seem completely familiar.
The earthen mixture for germinating persimmon seeds should be light and freely permeable to water and air. Any peat-based soil, diluted by a third or , will do. How to place persimmon seeds on the surface of the soil is shown in the photo. After this, they are sprinkled with a thin (up to one centimeter) layer of the same soil.
After planting, the container with the planted persimmon seeds should be placed in a warm, dark place for germination. First cover the container with a piece of glass, transparent plastic or regular plastic film. As practice shows, a good place for germinating persimmon seeds - on the floor near a heating radiator or on the lower pipe of the same radiator (if it is not very hot!). This place is warm and quite dark. The entire process of germination of persimmon seeds can take up to a month, but during this entire time it is necessary to periodically check their condition, ventilate, remove condensation from the cover, and moisten the soil if necessary.
Caring for persimmon seedlings
As soon as the first sprouts hatch and it becomes possible to remove the remnants of the hard stone coating from them, remove them and place the container with the sprouts in a bright place.
During the growth process, persimmon sprouts must be periodically sprayed and maintained. moderate humidity soil and feed weekly with fertilizer with a high nitrogen content.
When the seedlings have developed sufficiently and strong permanent leaves appear on them (as in the photo), they can be planted in separate pots. To begin with, take a small pot, 7–9 centimeters in diameter, and as it grows, transfer it to a larger pot.
Growing persimmons from seeds at home is not at all difficult, although it is a rather lengthy process. Subject to all rules and recommendations, it takes about four to four and a half months. Next begins caring for persimmons as a houseplant.
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Ebony tree, wild date, heart fruit or simply persimmon is a tropical plant of the ebony family, with a tart and pleasant taste and aroma. Distinguish up to 200 famous varieties this sweet fruit, some of which can be grown from an ordinary seed at home. To do this, it is necessary to choose the right soil, prepare and stratify the seeds for planting, and create suitable temperature conditions.
How to grow persimmons - selecting and preparing planting material
The simplest and effective way Growing persimmons at home is a method of growing from seeds. Seeds from ripe varieties that adapt well to new conditions (“Korolek”, “Rossiyanka”, “Medovaya”, etc.) are suitable for this. The fruits must be without visible damage, with no traces of mold or disease on the leaves. It is not recommended to use seeds from frozen fruits, since in 90% of cases such material is no longer viable.
The seeds are removed from the core and washed thoroughly under running water. warm water, after which they are dried in natural conditions at comfortable temperature(at least 20 degrees). Next, the resulting material should be placed in a slightly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate (1-2 g per liter of water) or in a simple warm water and keep it there for several hours. Potassium permanganate helps strengthen the walls and provides additional prevention.
Seeds that remain floating on the surface after sitting in the solution should not be planted; sprouts will not come out of them, but those that have sunk to the bottom of the container should be removed, washed thoroughly and dried. If the surface of the selected seeds is too rough, it can be carefully sanded with sandpaper or a rough cloth to make it smooth; as practice shows, this approach promotes better germination.
Now let's start final stage preparation. To do this, a procedure of stratification or growth stimulation is carried out: they need to be hardened and germinate a little. The bones are placed in water solution with special stimulants, which can be found in garden stores. Instead of using such products, aloe juice works well on persimmon seeds and many other tropical berries and fruits.
Selected planting material must be wrapped in loose cotton cloth, gauze or a napkin, pre-moistened in water with the addition of natural aloe concentrate. Place the wrapped seeds in the refrigerator and keep them for 2-3 weeks, periodically making sure that the fabric does not dry out.
Preparing the soil for good seed growth
Persimmon is a very demanding fruit, so for good germination at home, the soil for sowing should be natural, high quality and light, with good ventilation. Ideal option- use of a mixture of fertile garden soil, meadow humus, peat and river sand, which are mixed in equal proportions.
Containers for planting should not be too large, with mandatory drainage holes for good air circulation. It is better to use special square containers, and then, at the transplanting stage, more spacious, translucent pots. A thin layer of drainage is placed at the bottom of the container (expanded clay can be used), and then poured on top ready soil, and the prepared seeds are planted at a shallow depth (up to 2 centimeters).
After planting, the soil should be slightly moistened, then covered loosely with a thin and transparent film to create a greenhouse effect and the container should be placed in a warm place, well protected from direct sunlight and always dry. In this form, the seed will germinate from 3 weeks to 1.5 months.
Every day it is necessary to check the degree of soil moisture; if there is condensation on the film or other covering material that was used after planting, it must be removed so that mold does not form in the pot over time. It is advisable to sow prepared material in early spring so that by winter young plant has already been formed.
As soon as the first shoots appear, the film must be removed and the pot placed in a warm and bright place, but with limited exposure to direct sunlight. If a bone has formed at the end of an emerging sprout, it must be carefully trimmed using a stationery knife or removed with tweezers if it is not very stuck, but under no circumstances should it be left.
After a week of inactivity, when the sprouts have become a little stronger, it is recommended to transplant the plant into a new container. The same soil composition is suitable for a new pot, but before planting you can fertilize it a little with fertilizers containing nitrogen. The sprouts need to be replanted as soon as the first true leaves appear; this is done carefully so as not to damage the young root system. Place the new container in a bright place, moisten it, then properly care for it and monitor further growth.
Proper tree care - creating tropical conditions
In order for persimmons and other seedlings of tropical plants to develop well and begin to bear fruit in an unusual artificial environment, it is necessary to constantly harden them and alternate between stressful and favorable conditions content. To care for persimmons after the first leaves appear and transplant, it is important:
- provide plenty of light, especially in spring and autumn, while limiting direct hit sun rays.
- exclude the presence of any drafts;
- water in small doses with additional spraying of the foliage;
- create the most comfortable temperature conditions;
- update upper layer soil and feed the plant moderately during the growing season.
IN spring period and in the fall to ensure good growth Persimmon requires additional illumination of the plant for 2-3 hours a day, depending on natural weather conditions.
Special phytolamps or regular lamps are suitable for this. daylight. Since persimmons should grow in a bright and warm room, if watering conditions are not met, the leaves will dry out quickly, and root system will die.
The seedling must be watered in doses, avoiding excessive soil moisture, and in summer and spring, it is necessary to spray the leaves on a daily basis. Additionally, you can install an aquarium or other container with water near the pot with the plant, in which fresh moss is placed. This helps to increase air humidity and has a beneficial effect on the development of the tree.
Fertilizers and fertilizing are applied step by step and in small quantities. To do this, use nitrogen and natural phosphorus-containing fertilizers, which stimulate growth, but only for a few days during the growing season. In winter, this tropical plant sheds its leaves and goes dormant. At this time of year and during the period of the beginning of flowering, it is not recommended to apply any fertilizing.
The temperature is reduced to low levels, down to 0 degrees. Moreover, under natural conditions, persimmon can tolerate frosts down to -30 degrees. The pot or other container is placed on an unheated balcony or a well-ventilated cellar or basement; at this stage, light exposure should be minimal, but the soil should be kept moist at all times. After wintering, the persimmon can be replanted and placed again in a warm and bright place, begin gradual spraying, fertilizing and provide additional light.
Caring for persimmons during flowering - ringing and grafting
Do not forget that persimmon is a tree, and when creating comfortable conditions it blooms and grows very quickly. However, home conditions cannot replace the natural regime, so the creation of even the most ideal conditions will cause it to grow over time beautiful tree with lush and bright foliage, but at the end of the flowering period, the pollinated flowers will fall off, and there will be no need to wait for a harvest.
To receive the first fruits, at least 3-4 years must pass from the moment of planting; this is the specificity of growing many tropical plants including persimmons. All this time, the plant must not only be properly cared for, but also literally forced to bear fruit. This can be achieved through constant crown formation, ringing and grafting.
During the period of active growing season, after the appearance of 5-7 leaves, the sprouts need to be pinched, and then quickly growing shoots should be shortened, pruning them in such a way as to give the plant a compact shape. pruning, proper watering, maintenance and dosed application of fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the roots and prevent the tree from growing too quickly. Over time, a short, lush tree will appear that can be forced to bear fruit.
For ringing, you need to choose one or more strong and healthy branches, while paying attention to male and female branches, the first ones are usually small, grow in groups of 3-4 pieces, the second ones are more pronounced, single, and they should be ringed. In the absence of a normal balance between the two types of branches, fruits cannot be obtained even using all possible methods.
At the bottom of the selected branch, a ring of bark is carefully cut off so that the cut is perpendicular to the growth of the shoot. The ring is turned over and tightly wrapped with electrical tape or other material at the cut site. This helps slow down development, which can automatically force the branch to begin forming buds.
Another method of grafting at home is tying up already fruiting shoots. A healthy cutting is cut on both sides to the shape of a peg. Next, it is soaked in water, to which you can add a little sugar. On home flower A strong, vertically directed branch is selected, the base of which is cut off with a sharp knife or saw.
A hole is cut out inside the formed “stump”, equal in length to the cut cutting. The connection point is tightly wrapped with electrical tape or natural fabric. Can be worn on top plastic bag or film. If over time the cutting begins to grow, then the tissue has grown together, and with a high degree of probability, over time, fruitful buds will form on the new shoot.