Garlic is a spicy and aromatic vegetable that is used in food in fresh and for conservation. This crop can be grown both in winter and in spring. Find out how to plant garlic in the fall before winter, what variety to choose for this, how to prepare the soil and much more.
From the dates chosen for autumn landing garlic depends on the volume of harvest that can be harvested for the next season. This is a cold-resistant crop, but, nevertheless, it needs to be planted 3-4 weeks before the onset of cold weather in your region. The timing of planting garlic in the fall should be calculated so that the cloves can grow roots, take root, but do not have time to germinate. In this form, garlic will survive perfectly cold winter, and in the spring it will grow together.
IN middle lane this time begins on the 20th of September and lasts until mid-October. It is better to choose days when no particular warmth is expected, but the first autumn night frosts are expected. Each year these days may not occur at the same time, so garden work upon disembarkation winter garlic needs to be adjusted.
In the Moscow region, the crop needs to be planted at approximately the same time as in the middle zone; in the Urals, garlic needs to be planted earlier, in southern regions In the Russian Federation, cloves can be placed on the beds even in November.
In general, planting garlic before winter should be associated with weather conditions– if a warm autumn is expected, then this can be done later than the standard dates; if it is cold, then vice versa. You need to be especially careful when planting this vegetable before winter in Siberia - it is better to do it earlier, before frost sets in, than to risk the planting material and then worry that it will freeze. You need to plant garlic in this region starting from the second half of September and ending with the first week of October, and then cover the plantings with covering material.
What crops can be planted after: choosing a location
One of the most important and responsible stages in the agricultural technology of this crop is planting garlic in the fall. It is important to choose the best for him suitable place. This culture loves light, fertile (preferably sandy loam), air- and moisture-permeable soil. Its reaction should be neutral; garlic does not like acidic soil.
The place for the beds should be level and well lit by the sun. However, it should not be in a low area with plants close to it. groundwater and one where water stagnates - in wet soil during the winter, plant roots can rot, and during the growing season, excess moisture will provoke the growth of green mass, not bulbs. You should not choose a place for garlic plantings located near outbuildings with pets or birds so that they cannot damage them.
The best site for winter garlic in home garden beds is located near the fence on the south side. The fence will protect the plantings from the cold wind, and in winters with little snow, it will keep the snow on the ground. If the site is located on open place, then in case of a winter with little snow, you need to stock up on good covering material:
- dry leaf;
- peat;
- spruce branches;
- sawdust.
It is necessary to cover the beds only just before frost, and not soon after planting the cloves, so that they do not germinate under “ warm blanket" The larger the layer of covering material, the colder it is in your region.
The best predecessors for garlic are all pumpkin, nightshade, and legumes with a short growing season. They must be removed from the growing area intended for garlic at least a month before planting, so that after collecting them the soil can recover. For the same reason, you can plant garlic after potatoes only if it belongs to early or mid-early varieties.
But it is better not to plant garlic after carrots and other autumn root vegetables - since they are harvested late, the soil will not have time to renew its resources by the time of planting. It is possible to plant a crop in the same place only after 3 years, just as it can be placed where its relative, the onion, grew.
Preparing the bed
Preparing a bed for winter garlic requires no attention. less attention than choosing a place where the crop will grow. After all, the quality of the resulting harvest depends on the structure and composition of the soil. Preparation of the bed for planting garlic before winter begins 3-4 weeks before the expected planting date. First, all plant residues are removed from them, then the soil is dug up, leveled and fertilizers are applied:- Over an area of 1 m2 of loam, distribute 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska, superphosphate, 1 glass each dolomite flour. Or add organic matter - 1 bucket of humus or compost, 2 tbsp. ash.
- The same is applied to the sandy ones, but 1 more bucket of peat is added.
- Clays are also enriched with peat, adding 1 bucket of this fertilizer to each m2.
According to the landing rules, fresh manure do not use - it leads to the fact that the garlic begins to hurt and is more susceptible to pests. In the finished bed, the soil is cultivated before planting. disinfectant solution copper sulfate. To do this, dissolve 50 g of this substance in a bucket of water. The resulting solution is poured over the entire soil, and then covered with film.
Choosing a variety and preparing garlic for planting
For planting before winter, only winter varieties of garlic are suitable. It is quite easy to distinguish it from spring garlic - it has large, uniform cloves located around the arrow in 1 row. This garlic is a shooter, it shoots out a shoot on which small bulbs ripen (they can also be planted in the beds in the fall).
You need to choose a variety of garlic that suits your climatic conditions. For example, Ukrainian varieties have good winter hardiness:
- Ukrainian white - produces heads weighing 50-140 g, with the number of cloves in them - from 4 to 12 pieces. The shooter does not give, but is well stored.
- Spas - heads 60-100 g, 7-9 cloves each. The variety is high-yielding, immune to fusarium and nematodes, and is excellently stored.
- Lyubasha - the variety tolerates cold and summer heat well. The average weight of the head is 70-100 g, the number of teeth is 7 pcs. The harvest is stored for up to 10 months without losing during storage appearance and quality.
- Violet Kharkov - heads weighing 30-60 g, with no more than 6 cloves.
The varieties of Russian, Soviet and Dutch selection are also quite good: Yubileiny 07 and Yubileiny Gribovsky, Nadezhny, Skif, Garpek, Komsomolets, Messidor. They are distinguished by their sharp and semi-sharp taste, resistance to major garlic diseases, excellent yield, and excellent keeping quality.
They prepare garlic for planting before winter by sorting it out and discarding cloves that are sick, of poor quality, too small, or with superficial injuries. For disinfection, healthy teeth are soaked for 2 hours in solutions:
- ash (0.4 kg of ash per 2 l hot water, stand for 30 minutes);
- potassium permanganate (dark pink);
- saline (3 tablespoons per 5 liters of warm water);
- copper sulfate (1 tsp per bucket of water);
- drug "Fitosporin-M".
After drying, they are ready for planting.
Technology for planting garlic before winter
In the cultivated and prepared beds, long grooves with a depth of 15-20 cm are made - this is exactly the depth at which garlic must be planted for the winter. The distance between the garlic rows is left at 25-30 cm. A small layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of the grooves - this will reduce the risk of roots rotting in the soil in winter.
At what distance the cloves should be planted depends on their size. Between large ones you need to maintain a distance of 8-10 cm, between those that are smaller - 5-7 cm is enough. If planting garlic before winter is done in bulbs, use a different scheme: leave 2 cm in the rows between them, 10 cm in the rows. Bury small garlic 3 cm into the ground. In the summer, they will grow into round, single-pronged onions that can be used to plant winter garlic in the fall.
Have planting material always vertically, bottoms down, and not just placed in the ground. After embedding cloves or bulbs into the ground, they are covered with earth and sprinkled with a small layer of peat or sawdust (no thicker than 2 cm). There is no need to water newly planted garlic.
Care after landing
In the spring, as soon as it gets warm, cover material or mulch is removed from the beds so that the seedlings can quickly make their way to the top. Water the garlic for the first time as soon as the soil dries out and while it is growing green mass, do not spare water. When the heads begin to ripen, watering is reduced, and if the weather is rainy, then they are stopped completely. After each watering, the soil is loosened, weeding at the same time. This must be done carefully so as not to harm the developing heads and roots. To reduce the number of watering and weeding, you can mulch the grown garlic with hay, straw, sawdust hardwood trees.
Plants must be fed first with fertilizers containing N, and then P and K. Can be used as ready-made mineral mixtures, and organics, to which garlic responds very well. For mineral fertilizers, use saltpeter (20 g per bucket of water), from organic fertilizers– infusion of fresh manure (1 to 10). Start fertilizing as soon as the green sprouts have reached a height of approximately 10 cm. After a month, carry out another fertilizing - this time water the plants with an ash solution (200 g of ash per bucket of water).
When the plants throw out arrows, break them off without waiting for them to become coarse. This allows you to get larger heads and speed up their maturation. Leave the arrows only if you need to get bulbs to refresh the variety.
Garlic is harvested in July. It is collected in dry and sunny weather, after its tops turn yellow and fall off. The heads of mature garlic should be fully formed, with dry scales tightly adjacent to them. Do not overexpose garlic in the beds - overripe heads will fall apart into cloves.
To make the heads easier to remove from the ground, they are carefully dug up with a shovel or pitchfork, and then taken by the stem and removed from the ground. Then the crop is laid out on the beds for 4-5 days for drying, if necessary. sunny weather, and if it’s going to rain, then lay it out to dry under a canopy. Then the stem of dry garlic is shortened to 5 cm and the roots are cut off. Store it in a dry and cool place. Only completely ripe, dry, whole heads, without damage or disease, are left for storage. All other garlic is used for food.
Where and how to plant garlic before winter? The first part of the question concerns, first of all, climatic conditions planting garlic. The second is agrotechnical techniques for working with winter garlic. After all, winter crops can successfully produce a harvest only if the winter is mild enough and not very long. Where winter lasts 6 months, during which they stand severe frosts, and even with the winds, they usually don’t think about winter crops.
Winter garlic and its distinctive features
Planting garlic in winter may seem like a simple, not complicated task. All the differences are that the bulbs are planted not in spring, but in autumn. However, not everything is so simple. If you do this with any variety that you usually plant in the spring, then you will be disappointed and have a sad picture of dead and completely frozen bulbs.
The differences between winter garlic are as follows.
- Garlic planted in the fall has several large cloves arranged in one row. Their number varies greatly. The range of such variability is from 5 to 10 cloves. Spring garlic has an average of 25 small cloves arranged in several rows.
- All teeth are located around a rigid rod. Spring varieties do not have such a stem.
- The shell of each clove is not grayish-white, as is observed in spring varieties, but pinkish-violet.
- There are also taste differences. Spring garlic has a much milder taste than winter garlic.
There is another difference between these varietal groups. Winter garlic does not store well until spring. Perhaps for the reason that its genetic program contains information about wintering in the soil at subzero temperatures.
This garlic is harvested in the summer, eaten for several months or used in canning vegetables. If a gardener carries out a cycle of growing spring and winter garlic, then the need to store the winter form of this vegetable disappears by itself. On winter storage Spring garlic is sent, and winter garlic is planted in the fall. Such a circulation will allow owners of dacha acres all year round be with your own garlic, and the presence of winter varieties will also allow you to get very early fragrant leaves of this bulbous plant.
Winter garlic - material for planting
Garlic planted before winter can withstand twenty-degree frosts. Its shoots appear early spring, allowing you to get the first greens even before the appearance of onions and other edible grass.
It is the cultivation of winter garlic that allows large garlic shoots to be supplied to markets. They are a special food product. Additionally, these bulbs are often not so much harvested as a crop, but rather eliminated as a part of the plant that reduces the yield of the bulbs themselves. Arrows are left only on the largest bulbs to obtain seed.
Young shooters first curl into a spiral. As they grow, they straighten out. At this moment, the garlic flower stalks are harvested. The plants are dug up, tied into bunches and stored in a dry, dark and cool place for about a month.
After this period, the bulbs are separated, that is, aerial bulbs, which are the seed material. The main thing in this case is not to waste time, since the aerial bulbs can spill out onto the ground, as a result of which the process of uncontrolled self-seeding can begin.
When to plant garlic for the winter? Those cloves that separate from the bulb are planted in the fall, but airy bulbs are usually planted in the spring, since they can freeze in winter.
Obtaining planting material using aerial bulbs is considered very effective, since one bulb contains several cloves, while one arrow carries up to 100 bulbs.
In addition, each aerial bulb can produce a specific bulb, which consists of one large round clove. This bulb is called one-toothed. This strange bulb can be used for food, or you can plant it in the ground again and grow a large head of garlic weighing more than 100 grams.
When to plant winter garlic
When to plant garlic before winter? Planting work carried out in the fall, about a month before the onset of frost. Depending on the characteristics of the region, plant winter garlic needed from late September to mid-October. You need to calculate the time of planting so that the garlic has time to grow roots, but at the same time does not have time to release green leaves into the garden. autumn cold.
If you have to grow winter garlic in conditions severe frosts and long winter, the beds need to be covered plastic film, roofing felt and other materials. This cover must be removed very early, as soon as the snow melts.
Winter garlic begins to actively grow after the soil warms up to a stable temperature of about +8 degrees. A sign that the garlic is fully ripe are straight arrows and yellow leaves. It is at this time that the harvest should be harvested. Harvesting earlier may result in poor separation of the bulbs into cloves. If you start harvesting too late, the bulbs will begin to disintegrate into cloves right in the ground.
Preparing for landing
Garlic should be planted in autumn on soils with good lighting and a large number organics. All bulbous plants, and garlic in particular, can quickly deplete the soil. For this reason, it is necessary to periodically change the placement of the beds. If for some reason this is not possible, then the problem will have to be solved regular feeding.
Future garlic beds need to be prepared in advance. After all, the soil must not only be well fertilized, it must settle and compact before planting. This will make it easier for the bulbs to endure the winter.
In preparation for digging, you need to generously add compost or humus. At acidic soil you can add ash.
If you plan to use the bed for winter garlic for a long time, then manure or humus can be buried in a separate layer to a depth of about 20 cm. To do this, you need to dig several trenches 30 cm deep, put a layer of manure there (you can even fresh), and cover it top with a layer of dry organic matter (sawdust, dry leaves, peat, etc.), scatter a small amount of mineral fertilizers over the organic matter. After this, the trenches can be closed from above regular soil. This entire layer, located deeper than the roots garlic will slowly decompose, providing plants with nutrients for several years.
If you have carried out such thorough preparation of the bed, then fertilizing should be carried out only in the first year. In subsequent years, 3 plants per additional nutrition will not be needed.
Garlic can be planted after cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers, and pumpkins. Despite the fact that this plant has a large supply of phytoncides, it cannot completely protect itself from pests. For this reason, this vegetable cannot be planted in areas where for a long time potatoes were grown. Otherwise, infection with fusarium and nematode will occur.
In addition, it is not advisable to plant garlic before winter in the area where any root crops, such as carrots or beets, grow. The fact is that these crops are usually harvested before the first frost. So the gardener simply may not have time to good preparation soil for planting new culture. In addition, all root crops manage to take a lot of minerals from the soil during the season. So the garlic after root vegetables may turn out weak and small.
Many gardeners believe that it is impossible to plant garlic for two seasons in a row in the same place. Yes, indeed, this crop is capable of actively exploiting the soil. However, if you added a sufficient amount of organic matter on the eve of planting, then you can plant garlic in the same bed without damaging the crop for at least 3 years.
Planting winter garlic
How to properly plant garlic before winter? First of all, you need to prepare the seed well. It must be thoroughly dried and warmed in the sun. After this, the onion must be divided into cloves without peeling off the scaly covering.
The best is selected for planting, so it is necessary to choose large, healthy, undamaged bulbs and cloves. If you are not sure about the safety of the future growing environment for the bulbs, then you can disinfect the planting material in a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. The concentration of solutions must be weak, otherwise a chemical burn can be created.
Optimal scheme landing looks like this:
- the distance between rows should not be less than 25 centimeters;
- in each row the distance between copies should be about 15 centimeters;
- a bed that is too wide must be divided into “clearings”, that is, an increased distance between two rows;
- The planting depth of the cloves is 5-7 centimeters.
Since garlic does not like shade, it must be weeded thoroughly. Moreover, about two weeks before harvesting, the soil around the bulbs needs to be cleared so that their upper part can be illuminated by the sun. This way the bulbs will ripen faster and concentrate more nutrients.
In the spring, winter garlic is also planted, only bulbs, rather than cloves, are used as planting material. They are planted mainly in April.
Winter crops have a number of significant advantages. In a short time autumn period they manage to grow root system, so in spring the shoots grow much faster than in spring planting. This quick start allows the plant to short term form a strong stem and extensive root. It is these advantages that make it possible to significantly increase the yield of winter crops compared to spring crops.
Garlic is very popular in our country. It grows well in a variety of climates. When grown, it forms underground bulbs (heads), which consist of individual segments (cloves).
Features of planting winter garlic
Autumn planting of garlic is preferable to spring planting, as the heads are larger and denser. For winter cultivation Select the largest onions, which are split into individual cloves.
If you carefully examine the onion, then, when same sizes, you can notice specimens with thin and thick stems. It is better to select thin-stemmed heads for seeds, which produce more uniform cloves. In thick-stemmed bulbs, the middle segments are too small and unsuitable for planting. These cloves can be used for growing in a two-year culture, then they produce large, even bulbs.
Preparing seed material for planting
Before planting, seed material is thoroughly dried in a warm room. The mesh with teeth is placed on the radiator or placed near the stove and dried for 2-3 weeks. Poorly dried garlic is very susceptible to fungal diseases.
Treating is carried out 1-2 days before planting. The cloves are soaked in a fungicide solution for one hour. Usually they use Fundazol, Thiram, Maxim (the solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions) or in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium concentration. Then the seeds are thoroughly dried. Treating seeds with fungicides prevents the development of fungal diseases of garlic.
Most varieties of winter garlic are suitable for growing in all regions of the country. The most common are Novosibirsk, Agat, Nadezhny, Onyx, Yubileiny Gribovsky, Sagittarius, Losevsky, Petrovsky, Soyuz.
Bad and good predecessors
When growing crops, crop rotation must be observed. It cannot be grown in one place for more than one year, as the damage to plants by diseases and pests increases. Garlic can be returned to its original place only after 5 years. Good precursors for culture are:
- melons (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers);
- tomatoes;
- cabbage;
- lettuce, dill;
- busy couple
Garlic should not be cultivated after beets, carrots, potatoes, onions and other root vegetables. These crops remove the same substances from the soil as garlic.
When to plant garlic before winter
Before winter, garlic is planted 3 weeks before the onset of the first cold weather. This is usually mid to late October. If you plant it too early, the cloves may sprout and die. If later, they will not have time to take root, some of the cloves will die in the winter, and seedlings in the spring will be rare and weakened.
Possible dates for planting garlic in the fall depend entirely on the weather and vary from year to year. Garlic should be planted in sunny places; plants develop worse in partial shade.
Soil preparation
Plants grow well in light to medium loamy soils. The ground underneath winter planting prepared in advance. Fresh manure or peat cannot be applied, since garlic with such fertilizer goes into the leaf and forms loose heads that are unsuitable for storage. If the soil is very poor, then add humus or completely decomposed compost several months before planting.
Acidic soils are unsuitable for garlic. Seedlings on such soils begin to turn yellow in the spring, the plants develop poorly, the growing season ends earlier, and the heads are small and underdeveloped. To determine acidity use special devices(sold in stores). They are very simple and easy to use and allow you to determine soil acidity on site.
A device for measuring soil moisture, acidity and illumination.
The soil is acidic if the pH is less than 6.5. To deoxidize it, liming is carried out in the fall: dolomite flour is added, limestone flour, fluff. Fertilizer is embedded in the ground to a depth of 8-10 cm.
When liming, the speed and duration of action of the fertilizer should be taken into account.
- Dolomite flour. Its effect begins to appear 2 years after application and lasts up to 5 years. When using dolomite flour, the soil will be favorable for planting garlic for the 3rd year.
- Limestone flour. Its effect appears in the 2nd year and lasts 2-3 years. When applied, the soil becomes suitable for garlic in the second year.
- Fluffy. The effect begins immediately after application and lasts 1 year. You can cultivate garlic immediately after adding fluff.
The dose of fertilizer depends on the acidity of the soil.
- On strongly acidic soils (pH below 4.5) the norm is 50-60 kg/sq.m.
- For medium acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) 30-40 kg/sq.m.
- For slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) 25-30 kg/sq.m.
Lime fertilizers are applied in the fall before digging, evenly distributing them over the surface of the earth.
Since lime contributes to the leaching of potassium, at the same time it is added to the soil potash fertilizers. For garlic, potassium sulfate is the best.
Waterlogged soils are unsuitable for growing garlic. Often it does not even sprout because the cloves rot in the damp soil, and the emerging shoots are yellow, stunted, and quickly die.
The beds for winter garlic are dug up in August, incorporating everything into the soil. necessary fertilizers. When digging, you can add ash at the rate of a bucket per m2. The earth is leveled and the clods are broken up.
Landing technology
For planting, take the largest cloves, from which large, even, dense heads grow. Garlic is planted in cold, dry weather. The place should be well lit all day.
- Furrows are made on the ridges, the distance between which is 23-25 cm.
- If the soil is very dry, then water it and let it air out.
- Plant the cloves in the furrows with the bottom down to a depth of 4-5 cm, slightly pressing them into the ground, at a distance of 15-17 cm from each other.
- Cover the planted cloves with soil.
- Cover the bed with spruce paws or straw. This is done to prevent the garlic from freezing.
If there is not enough space on the site, then you can make a thickened planting. The cloves are planted 9-10 cm apart from each other, and the distance between the rows is reduced to 13-15 cm. With this planting, the heads are somewhat smaller.
Caring for winter garlic
In the spring, spruce branches are removed from the ridges only when the threat of returning cold weather has passed, since garlic seedlings suffer greatly from spring temperature changes.
Top dressing
Young plants are very sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. If there is not enough of it, the leaves begin to turn yellow and the tips dry out. When the first signs of nitrogen starvation appear, root feeding. It is better to feed with carbamide (urea), since it is less washed out of the soil by precipitation. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3 g per 1 liter of water for one plant. The seedlings on the ridges are watered and then fed.
Watering
Winter garlic does not require much moisture. He gets enough precipitation. It only needs to be watered if the summer is very dry and there is no rain. Excess moisture leads to damage to plants by fungal diseases, which are extremely difficult to combat, since all pathogens are in the soil and primarily affect the heads of garlic.
If any diseases appear, the affected plants are removed, and the rest are watered with a fungicide solution (Maxim, Hom).
Caring for garlic is simple and involves regularly loosening the soil until the tops cover the row spacing. When loosening the plants, it is necessary to lightly hill up, sprinkling soil on the heads.
Winter garlic can be either bolting or non-shooting. To better form the heads, the arrows are cut off. If it is necessary to grow bulblets, then leave a few arrows and break out the steel ones.
In winter garlic, in mid-July, the leaves above the heads are tied in a knot or pressed down firmly. This technique allows you to extend ripening by 1-2 weeks. While the leaves have not dried, the garlic is pouring in and the longer it remains in the ground during this period, the larger the heads will be.
Harvesting and storing garlic
Garlic is removed from the beds only after the leaves have completely dried. Arrows are a reliable indicator of maturity. When they straighten and the film on the inflorescence bursts, the garlic is ready for harvesting. If you delay, the cloves will begin to sprout. Sprouted garlic is not suitable for storage or planting. It must be used immediately.
In dry weather, the heads are dug up and left on the ridges for several hours. Then they are removed under a canopy, where they are laid out in a thin layer. Garlic is dried for 12-15 days. Then the tops are cut off, leaving 10-15 cm of the stem, peeled from the integumentary scales, and the roots are trimmed. When storing the harvest, 40 cm of the stem is left in braids so that it can be braided. Store in cold rooms (basements, cellars, sheds) at a temperature of 2-4°C. At higher temperatures, the cloves begin to germinate.
Growing garlic from bulbs
Garlic does not produce seeds. In the summer, it develops arrows in which airy bulbs develop. In breeding they are widely used to develop new varieties. In the garden you can also grow large, dense heads from them. Bulbs should only be obtained from winter garlic, as they are larger and produce good quality heads.
To obtain air bows, several arrows are left. By the end of July, from 60 to 100 bulbs ripen in them, outwardly similar to small cloves. When the arrows straighten and the inflorescence film begins to tear, the arrows are collected and dried.
Bulbs can be planted both before winter and in spring. At autumn planting The onions are sown in rows at a distance of 5-6 cm between them to a depth of 3 cm. The beds must be covered with spruce branches. On next year Care is the same as for regular garlic.
At spring growing Before planting, the bulblets are stratified. They are wrapped in cloth and placed in a cold place (refrigerator, barn), where they are kept for 10-20 days. After this, they are planted as spring garlic. By the end of summer, one-toothed bulbs are formed from the planted bulbs. In autumn they are dug up and dried.
More recently, gardening enthusiasts have completed harvesting the spicy vegetable, and are already beginning to think about the next step - planting winter garlic. Although the time has not yet come, you should take care of seed material. You may have to choose or purchase some new variety. It’s time to decide on the location (the site should be prepared in advance) and think about the planting method. All this will be the key to a good harvest.
Dates for planting garlic in the fall
It is impossible to indicate specific dates and times for planting seeds, since they are different for each region and depend on climatic conditions. But the main rule is that the process should be carried out 15-20 days before a stable cold snap. When determining the timing, it is necessary to take into account the time of the first frost. This will allow the cloves, heads, and bulbs to take root, and the owner will not be late and will cope on time. You may not have time if the ground freezes during a sudden cold snap. As a last resort, the frozen layer of soil should be removed and the garlic should be planted.
To avoid having to do this, gardeners living in the central regions of the country plan to plant the crop in the first half of October. Residents of the middle zone plant it between the end of September and the beginning of October. When night temperatures drop (below 10 °C), this is done even earlier. Those who grow garlic in the regions of Western Siberia choose more early time, mid-September - first ten days of October. In the warm Crimea it is planted no earlier than in the first ten days of November.
In Ukraine, the spicy product was always planted before October 14, the feast of the Intercession of the Virgin Mary. In the territories bordering it (for example, in Rostov-on-Don), they are also trying to cope with this day. Belarusians choose September to plant material, and in the north of the country they begin the process in the second half of September, completing it before the first week of October, it depends on the weather. In harsh regions, in order for the plant to survive the winter, deep planting is carried out from late August to mid-October. Garlic is placed in the ground at a depth of 10-15 cm instead of 3-5 cm with the usual method.
There is no big difference in the time of planting garlic crops in the Moscow region, Belarus or Ukraine: it is chosen depending on the actual arrival of winter. Grandfathers and great-grandfathers also focused on the Intercession, paying attention to the state of autumn nature. They planted garlic when the ground became cold, testing its temperature with their bare feet. In some regions, trees were observed: if the birch leaves began to fall, then it was time for winter planting. Our ancestors also set the timing for sowing garlic in accordance with the phases of the moon. So more exact dates can be found out by opening the Lunar sowing calendar.
After which crop can/cannot winter garlic be planted?
In addition to the correct timing for planting, the plant also needs crop rotation. This is one of the factors affecting productivity. There is a fair opinion that a crop can only be planted in the same place after 4 or 5 years. If the garden is large, this option is acceptable, but if it is smaller? After 2 or 3 years, you can also change the place, but subject to compliance with agricultural technology, not forgetting that the success of cultivation is directly proportional to the content nutrients in the ground. If it is depleted, it will not be possible to collect large heads.
It was noticed that the plantings spice culture behave differently: after some predecessors they grow magnificently, after others they can be susceptible to diseases. When planning a site, it is necessary to take into account the conditions of the sowing shift.
| Previous cultures | How do they influence | |
| The best | Melons (cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons, zucchini, squash) |
Some of the unspent fertilizers applied are retained in the soil. |
| All types of early cauliflower and early white cabbage | ||
| Early potatoes | ||
| Beans, all types of beans and peas | ||
| Tomatoes, bell pepper | ||
| Green manure (including rye) | Inhibits the germination of weed seeds. Improve the soil by delivering nutritional elements closer to the surface. They lure away pests. Radish repels nematodes, and mustard is afraid of scab. In addition, they enrich the soil with nitrogen | |
| Cereals | ||
| Strawberries (as a neighboring crop in compact planting) | They grow in different layers of soil, “sharing” nutrition | |
| Acceptable | Cabbage (except early cabbage) |
They do not have common diseases and pests, but they deplete the soil |
| Turnip | ||
| Corn | ||
| Beetroot | ||
| Radish | ||
| Onion | It has diseases in common with garlic. Uses nutrients from the same soil layer as garlic | |
| Unwanted | Carrot | Significantly depletes the soil |
| Potato | They are susceptible to common diseases. Use nutrients from one soil layer |
|
| Eggplant | ||
Another important activity is preparing the seeds and soil for planting.
Processing garlic, preparing beds
First, you need to sort out the garlic, sorting only intact, large, correct form, no signs of tooth infection. In order for the future plant to be healthy and produce high-quality heads, the dry material must be treated with an ash solution shortly before planting. It’s not difficult to prepare: mix 2 liters of water, 2 cups of ash. Then the composition is supposed to be boiled for 30 minutes, then cooled.
In addition to ash, you can use solutions of environmentally friendly antiseptics:
- Potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) slightly pink shade, soaking the teeth for 2 or 3 hours. It will take less time (3 minutes) to process the material in 2 liters of water with 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate.
- Some summer residents recommend a different composition, suggesting dissolving the same amount of substance, but in one bucket of water.
- Dissolved kitchen salt (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) is more effective. It should be processed within a couple of minutes. After this, disinfect with a vitriol solution, adding 1 teaspoon of powder to 1 bucket of water. The procedure lasts only 1 minute.
- For disinfection and immune resistance, you can resort to the use of a natural growth stimulator "EPIN Extra". You can use it after reading the instructions.
If the garlic is prepared shortly before planting in the ground, then the beds need more serious processing.
For growing winter crop A plot where fresh manure was added this year is not suitable; it contains a lot of nitrogen. The leaves of the plant will be luxurious, but the underground part will not form well. In this case, it is better to use it in its rotted form. A good remedy is humus, but harmful larvae can move into the garden bed with it. It is also good to use peat as a fertilizer.
But it also has a disadvantage; it can increase the acidity of the soil. To reduce it later (neutralize), you will have to use lime.
Garlic loves nutrient soil, so you can enter mineral fertilizers per 1 sq.m: superphosphate with potassium in equal proportions (20 grams each) and 10 grams of ammonium nitrate. The place for garlic should be sunny. Good yield the vegetable exhibits a spicy taste on sandy loam soils with a loose structure. But during hot, dry periods it may experience moisture deficiency, because it is a moisture-loving bulbous plant. If rotted manure was used as fertilizer, soil moisture will be partially preserved. If light loam prevails in the area, there will be enough garlic for both planting and consumption in winter.
At the beginning of September, the ground is dug up. The soil is ready, you need to create easy-to-maintain beds. Experienced gardeners claim that optimal size each should be about 1-1.6 m wide and up to 0.25 m high. Then the beds settle down for about a month. The absence of the subsidence process will lead to a decrease in yield. Haste will only do harm.
How to plant garlic before winter
And at this time they are planning planting methods. Unique planting material aromatic plant can be divided into 4 categories: bulblets (airs that ripen on the arrows), cloves, single-claws, and heads.
Planting with bulbs
These mini cloves appear after the shoots have faded and restore the purity of the variety. Their use prevents the infection of future plants by nematodes that are in the soil, because the air pockets are formed without contacting it. Before planting, they need to adapt to the cold period. To do this, for two weeks before sowing, they are placed in a section of the refrigerator, where the temperature is 0 - 4 ° C. At the end of the period, they are planted in holes. With this landing, you can use two options.
The first of them is used in the spring, when the air plants, which have already turned into one-toothed ones, are left to grow in the ground for another winter. In two years, the seeds turn into a healthy large head with preserved purity of the variety.
The second method is more widely practiced: the bulbs are dug up 10-15 days earlier than the rest of the harvest. They are sorted, dried, and after one or two months they are planted again, resulting in weighty heads.
Single-tooth landing
The advantages of round bulbs grown from bulbs include much better shelf life compared to heads. To plant them correctly, you should:
- make holes or stretch a cord (this way the earth is trampled down less);
- using a stick (you can mark the depth on it) along the twine, make indentations of such a diameter that the teeth fit into them;
- place the raw materials in the prepared pits, optimal distance between which is 10-15 cm, without pressing (otherwise it will interfere with the formation and development of roots).
- check the embedment depth, which depends on the choice of methods discussed above.
If you use beds 1 m wide, then at a distance of 20 to 25 cm you get 5 rows. Very convenient when leaving.
Head landing
Sometimes this type of garlic is called bush garlic. Although this technique is considered “lazy,” it has a number of advantages. It is used to save space, and time is not wasted on separating the cloves. Strawberry beds are compacted with whole bulbs to prevent diseases and control pests. Plant between tomatoes, cabbage, around currant bushes, achieving a double effect.
Bulbs with fewer cloves are better suited, then the new heads will grow large. If they have 6-8 cloves, then their size will be smaller. The grooves are made using one of the described methods; the preplanting treatment technique is also similar. But the planting depth is from 10 to 15 cm, and the distance in the furrow increases to 20 cm. If the heads are located close to each other, then their shape may not be perfectly round. When used in commercial purposes buyers are less attracted to such crops.
Planting scheme
Along the length of the beds prepared for garlic, grooves are made with a depth of 6 to 8 cm, the distance between which is 20 - 25 cm. The cloves are planted so that the distance from the bottom to the surface of the soil is 4-5 cm. Between them, indentations of 6-8 are optimal. see the tooth fits into vertical position or sideways. The scheme for planting bulbs is described above.
In addition to the classic scheme, there are new, unconventional ones, for example, two-tier planting. It makes it possible to double the yield. But with any scheme, the pattern is the same: the more spacious the plants are planted, the greater the chance of getting a larger head.
Planting depth
How deep the seeds should be planted depends on the method chosen. The process is carried out by two of them. At the first time, the cloves or heads are buried by 3-5 cm. In terms of timing, planting is carried out before the onset of frost (2 or 3 weeks). Using the second, in-depth technique, the seeds are planted at a depth of 10-15 cm. There, it quickly develops the root system, and the thickness of the soil on top protects it from freezing. Although agronomists claim that more nutrients are found in the 10-centimeter top layer. This method is more applicable in cold regions.
Additional events
They apply to all types of plantings:
- If there is not enough moisture in the soil, the holes or depressions are shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Experts recommend another option, which consists of preparing a superphosphate extract: pour 1 kg of the substance into a bucket of hot water, cover with film and wrap tightly. Mix the cooled mixture thoroughly and let it sit. Then drain the liquid part separately and discard the sediment, which contains rare earth metals. Before pouring the grooves, add half a liter of liquid to 1 bucket of water (10 l).
- The rows are covered with compost, humus, or, in their absence, with soil.
- The beds are mulched with a layer of up to 10 cm, for which peat and sawdust are used, which can be loosened together in the ground during weeding in the spring.
- The use of leaves, spruce branches, shavings, straw or hay requires removal before the sprouts have to break through, losing strength. If you can’t go to the dacha often, then you’ll have to hurry up with removing such mulch.
- If snow falls after planting the crop, you can do without shelter; otherwise, it is necessary to prevent freezing. This measure is relevant for residents of the Moscow region.
- Those who cultivate hot spices in the regions of Siberia use roofing material to cover their crops before the snowfalls.
Proper processing, planting seeds, creating optimal conditions give for the plant good result. But the main thing is that they are necessary quality seeds, which are presented in a huge variety.
The best varieties of winter garlic
When choosing a variety, you must take into account its ripening time, keeping quality and taste characteristics. Good options varieties will become:
- “Ukrainian white”, universal, lightweight, non-shooting, number of cloves - from 4 to 12, head weighs 140 g;
- "Lyubasha" refers to frost-resistant varieties, the number of large teeth is 6-8 (each weighs about 10-15 g), has purple shade scales, does not lose properties for 10 months.
- “Spas” is productive, frost-resistant, immune to nematodes and fusarium wilt, the head consists of 7-9 cloves.
- “Messidor” was bred in Holland, has a sharp taste, is immune to pests and diseases, and has from 10 to 15 cloves in a head weighing 110-115 g.
- “Anniversary Gribovsky” is quite spicy, productive variety, well stored.
- Bogatyr is different large size, the weight of the purple head is 85 g, the preservation is better than that of other varieties.
The variety whose teeth differ in size is considered successful. You can acquire several varieties, and then choose large, high-yielding ones that can be stored for a long period.
Planting winter garlic requires considerable effort. The abundance of the harvest depends on compliance with deadlines, rules and recommendations. And proper care and well organized agrotechnical measures will help you achieve the desired result.
Ecology of life: Estate. The main conditions for obtaining a rich harvest of winter garlic are: correct definition places for planting and compliance with bed preparation technology.
How to plant garlic before winter
If you plan to grow garlic on your plot, it is best to worry about this in the fall. Planting this bulbous plant before winter will provide excellent quality and large size heads and cloves of garlic.
It's no secret thatthe main conditions for obtaining a rich harvestwinter garlic - in the correct determination of the planting site and compliance with the bed preparation technology.
Planting dates for winter garlic
When to plant garlic before winter depends primarily on the planned planting depth.
1. Planting garlic before winter to a depth of 3-5 cm
Most often, garlic is buried 3-5 cm. In this case, planting is carried out 2-3 weeks before the first frost.
In the middle zone, this period usually falls on the 20th of September – the 10th of October. In more warm regions with a mild climate it is November.
2. Planting winter garlic to a depth of 10-15 cm
Many gardeners prefer to plant garlic at greater depths; with this method, it takes root better and is easier to tolerate. winter frosts. When to plant winter garlic during deep planting? In the middle zone - from the last ten days of August to the second ten days of October.
How to distinguish winter garlic from spring garlic
Naturally, the main difference is that winter garlic is planted before winter, and spring garlic - in the spring.
In addition, they can be distinguished by external features.
After which you can plant garlic before winter
It’s better if tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. grew in the garden before the garlic. legumes. Also good predecessors garlic may be early cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin. In this case, the soil for garlic will be maximally saturated with organic fertilizers.
It is not recommended to plant garlic in areas that were occupied by potatoes or onions. This is due to the fact that there is a high risk of “exchange” of diseases between these crops (nematode, fusarium, etc.).
You should also not plant winter garlic in areas where manure was applied this year: garlic will abundant tops, loose heads and will be less resistant to fungal diseases.
Choosing a place for a bed for winter garlic
Find the best one in your area fertile soil with normal or low acidity. It is in this place that you should plant garlic. Make a bed on sunny side, positioning it from north to south.
How to prepare a bed for winter garlic?
Preparations for planting winter garlic begin early.
1. Preparing the soil for garlic
At the end of August - beginning of September, it is necessary to fertilize the soil: for each square meter of area add 10 kg of humus, 1 cup of chalk and 2 cups of ash, add 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. superphosphate. Having distributed all the components evenly on the soil, you need to dig it up. The digging depth should be at least 20 cm.
2. Forming a bed
An ideal bed for winter garlic will be up to 1 m wide and up to 25 cm high.
3. Give time for the soil to shrink
Some gardeners are in a hurry and plant garlic immediately after digging. This affects the growth and development of the plant: garlic cloves end up deep in the ground when the soil settles, and in the spring the time for shoot germination increases and the crop yield decreases.
4. We cultivate the soil
To prevent garlic diseases treat the ground with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (dilute 1 tablespoon of the substance in 10 liters of water). Using a watering can, pour the resulting solution over the entire area of the bed. Then cover it with film.
On average, 2 square meters will require 1 bucket of this solution.
On the eve of planting garlic, scatter urea on the surface of the bed at the rate of 10-20 g per square meter and water the soil with water.
How to prepare garlic for planting
We have already figured out how to prepare a bed for planting and when to plant winter garlic; now it’s time to decide how to prepare the planting material itself.
1. Disassemble the head into pieces
Firstly, it is important to carefully examine the garlic and disassemble the heads into individual cloves, from which you need to select the largest, healthiest ones for planting.
If you take planting material from non-shooting varieties of garlic, use only the cloves of the outer tier.
2. Disinfect garlic
The selected cloves must be soaked for a day in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or a 1% solution of copper sulfate.
After these procedures, garlic can be considered ready for winter planting.
Proper planting of single clove winter garlic
Now we proceed directly to the technology of planting garlic in the fall.
1. Making holes
On a bed prepared in advance, we outline a place for planting winter garlic. To do this, use a stick to make holes in the ground at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The depth of the holes is from 3 to 15 cm, depending on the method and time of planting. We already discussed this at the beginning of the article.
The distance between rows is 20-25 cm.
2. Bury the garlic cloves
Place the garlic cloves into the holes.
You should not press them into the ground, as this delays root formation.
3. We cultivate the land
If the soil is dry, you can spill it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
4. Fill in the holes
The holes must be covered with rotted compost.
5. Mulch the bed
The optimal layer of mulch is about 10 cm. For mulching, it is best to use peat, pine needles or spruce branches, and fallen leaves.
In warm regions there is no need to mulch winter garlic.
An alternative way to plant winter garlic
There is another, less usual approach to preparing a bed for winter garlic.
1. Apply fertilizers for planting garlic
At the end of August, it is necessary to apply fertilizer to the garden bed:
- potassium sulfate (2 tbsp per sq.m.);
- superphosphate (1 tbsp per sq.m.);
- wood ash(2 cups per sq.m.);
- chalk (1 cup per square meter);
- humus (10 kg per sq.m.).
All fertilizers are applied dry and scattered over the soil surface.
2. Cultivate the soil
After this, the ground must be thoroughly dug up. Again, to speed up shrinkage, water the soil generously. If the weather is rainy, watering is not necessary.
3. Filling the bed
First of all, along the prepared bed, 35-45 cm from it, you need to sow rows of peas, oats and white mustard.
4. Till the soil before planting
1-2 days before planting garlic, it is necessary to apply fertilizing. To do this, urea is added to the beds (10-20 g per sq.m.). Then the ground is generously watered.
5. Plant winter garlic
In early October, when the sprouts of peas and oats reach 20 cm or more, it is time to plant garlic between their green rows.
This method of winter planting garlic is quite effective. The greens will retain snow in the beds, so that in winter the garlic will be covered with a snow coat, and in the spring it will receive sufficient moisture.
Whatever technology for planting and growing winter garlic you choose, we hope you will be able to get a good harvest next summer.published