Drawing of a frame bath 3 2. Advantages of building baths on a frame basis. Interior decoration of a frame bath

Most main question, which comes to mind when you want to build a bathhouse with your own hands on your own site is the cost of materials. Will he pull it off? family budget project for the construction of a frame bath measuring 6 by 4 meters? Let's try to calculate the required amount of materials and their cost.

So, any capital structure requires a reliable foundation, and you should not skimp on it. For this project you will need strip foundation width 30 cm and total height 1 meter. The height above ground level is at least 50 cm.

Cost of foundation

For the foundation you will need:

1. Sand bedding 15 cm thick. Calculate the required amount of sand: trench width 0.3 m, foundation perimeter 6.1 m * 4.1 m = 20.4 m * 0.3 * 0.15 = 0.918 m3. We get approximately 1 m3 of sand worth 1000 r.
2. Formwork. The height of the formwork is 45 cm - three boards. For formwork you will need 24 boards 150*25 cm cost 4000 r.
3. Fittings. Two rows, two rods with a diameter of 12 mm. It will require 80 meters at 25.5 rubles per meter, we get 2040 r.
4. Concrete will need 0.3m*1m*20.4m=6.12 m3. Its price depends on the distance to the object. Let's take approximately 4500 rubles per 1 m3 and get 27540 r
5. The costs for tying wire, self-tapping screws, and pipes for ventilation will be within the limits 5000 r.

The total cost of constructing the foundation will be approximately 39580 rubles

To slightly reduce the cost of the foundation, concrete can be made with your own hands rather than purchased from a factory.

Cost of materials for the construction of the frame and rafter system

For a more durable structure, the bathhouse must have a strong bottom frame, strong corner posts and the top frame is best made from 150*150 mm timber. Let's take the net height of the ceiling to be 2.2 meters. You will need 8 beams for the top and bottom trim and two more for the corner posts. 10pcs*930r= 9300 r. Vertical racks, ceiling beams and rafters are made from 150*50 mm boards. The distance between the posts is taken to be 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation used. Let's take, for example, standard insulation made of stone or mineral wool size 60*100 cm. Based on the above, we will need 12 boards 150*50 mm for the racks. For ceiling beams You will need 10 boards. and rafters 10 pcs., total 20 pcs. Boards 150*50 need to be purchased about 10 more pieces. for the construction of scaffolding. As a result, we get the costs for the board 150 * 50: racks - 12 pcs. + beams, rafters - 20 pcs. + scaffolding 10 pcs. = 42 pcs. *318 RUR = 13363 ruble

The standard length of lumber is 6 meters.

Roof structure

Depending on roofing material, with which the bathhouse is covered, the sheathing is arranged. It's not difficult to do it yourself. For metal tiles, it is enough to make a sheathing from an edged inch board. For soft bitumen shingles it is necessary flat surface. To do this, plywood is laid on top of the usual sheathing, and then the roofing material.

Cost of a metal tile roof

Lathing: pitch 150 mm edged board 150*25 mm 33 pcs*159 r = 5247 r.

The working width of metal tiles is 1100 mm. For this roof you need 11 sheets 3 meters long. Moreover, one will have to be sawed in half lengthwise. The area of ​​one sheet will be 3.54 m2. Let's take a price of 500 rubles per m2 and get 1770 rubles per sheet. Total: 11*1770 = 19470 r.

To complete the metal tile roofing work, we will still need 7 meters of ridge. It is produced in two meters, so you will have to buy 4 pieces. Its price is 650 rubles * 4 pcs. = 2600 r. The wind strip will require 12 meters * 520 r = 6240 r. Cornice strip 14 meters*400 RUR = 5600 r. Two packages of self-tapping screws with a rubber washer, 2 packs*800 RUR = 1600 r. Summary of metal tile roofing without a drainage system: 40757 rubles

For this roof, the metal tile sheet is three meters long and it will be difficult for one person to lift it onto the roof with his own hands. At least one more hand will be required.

Cost of soft roofing

Lathing: edged board 150*25 mm 27 pcs*159 rubles = 4293 r. OSB plywood 9 mm thick 14 sheets * 550 r = 7700 r.

According to the rules, before laying flexible tiles, you must first lay the roofing material on the plywood, and then the tiles themselves. In order to save money, we will place it only on the ridge.

Underlay carpet 1 roll – 2000 r. The roof area is 42 m2*500 r = 21000 p the cost of the tiles themselves. Just like for metal tiles, you need to purchase wind bar 6240 r and cornice strip 5600 r. For better fixation of the tiles, in places of contact with the eaves and wind strips, they must be additionally coated bitumen mastic (2500 r per can). To ventilate the space between the roofs, special aerators are installed on the roof, closer to the ridge. For this roof you will need 4 pieces * 850 RUR = 3400 r. It is best to attach tiles to plywood with self-tapping screws ( 500 p). The result for a roof made of flexible bitumen shingles without a drainage system: 53233 ruble

It is not at all difficult to install a soft roof with your own hands. Each pack contains detailed diagram laying tiles.

Cost of a metal drainage system

Metal eaves hooks are used to secure the drainpipe to the roof. They are attached to the cornice board or to the rafters before the sheathing is installed. For this roof you will need 20 pieces * 200 r = 4000 r. Gutter of the drainage system 14 meters * 358 r = 5012 r. Four plugs for 250 RUR ( 1000 p). Two connectors for 450 rubles ( 900 p). Two outlets, two elbows, two outlets from the gutter, two wall mounts ( 4000 p). Drain pipes 1700 r. Total by drainage system: 16612 rubles

Floors

For floor joists it is better to use 100*150 mm timber. You will need 8 pieces of it. * 636 = 5088 r. The subfloor will require 26 inch boards with a width of 150 mm. ( 4136 p). If the floors in the entire bathhouse are wooden, then 26 pieces of floorboards will also be required. *590 = 15340 r. The floor insulation should be good and amount to 150 mm. You will need 27 packs of insulation *430 RUR = 11610 r. Total by gender: 36174 ruble

Cost of wall and ceiling insulation

The wall area is 44 m2 and the ceiling is 24 m2. For the total area of ​​walls and ceiling (68 m2) we need 40 packs of insulation. Costs will be 40*430 RUR = 17200 r. The area of ​​the door and windows need not be subtracted from the total insulation area. The remaining insulation will be used to insulate the partitions. To protect the insulation from moisture, it must be closed. vapor barrier material. For the entire volume of the bath, two rolls will be enough ( 6500 p). Result: 23700 rubles

Installation of insulation is very simple and it will not be difficult to install it yourself, with your own hands.

To sew up the gables you will need 15 inch boards * 159 r = 2385 r.

Cost of interior finishing

The inside of the bathhouse is most often finished with wooden lining. For the washing room and rest room, lining made of pine or spruce is used, for the steam room, linden or aspen is used. In order to understand how much of each lining is needed, it is necessary to divide the space of the entire bath into separate rooms with partitions. We will not calculate the exact costs of partitions, but will take approximately 5000 r. So, we define the size of the steam room as 1.8 m * 2.2 m. To finish it you will need: wall paneling 17.6 m2 * 860r = 15136 r., for a ceiling 4m2 * 860 r = 3440 r. Shelves made of linden boards will cost 5000 r. The door to the steam room costs on average 5000 r. Fireproof protection of combustible materials from the furnace will cost 3000 r.

Linings for the remaining rooms and ceiling will require about 60 m2 * 220 r = 13200 r. Entrance wooden door 5000 r, windows in the steam room, in the relaxation room, in the washing room - 15000 r. All kinds of impregnations, varnishes, paints: 5000 r.

The lining is attached to the sheathing using nails or special clamps - clamps. Sewing up the walls and ceiling with clapboard with your own hands will not be difficult.

A heater stove with a chimney will cost at least 30000 r. Plumbing, plumbing, water heater, shower, sewer, etc. more 30000 r. Electricity: 7000 r. If the washing floor will be poured concrete and finished ceramic tiles, then these are additional costs.

Interior finishing summary: 141776 rubles

Cost of exterior finishing

The outside walls of the frame bathhouse must be covered with edged boards or plywood. For this we need 55 boards* 159 RUR = 8450 r. The outside of the bathhouse is sheathed with almost any finishing material, but most often they use siding or the same lining as for interior work. Let's calculate the approximate costs of finishing a bathhouse with siding. It is best to highlight the base or foundation and cover it with base panels. One such panel 1 meter long today costs about 500 rubles. You will need 20 of them and we get 10000 r plus angles, starting line, metal castings – more 5000 r. You will need 60 m2 of siding and it will cost 200 rubles per m2 ( 12000 p), and the same amount ( 12000 p) additional accessories (starting strip, outer corners, finishing strip, etc.). Soffits for filing overhangs 13 m2 * 250 r = 3250 r.

Total by exterior decoration siding: 38700 rubles

Before you begin installing the siding, you need to complete the sheathing. It is necessary for air circulation between the wooden wall and the siding. The siding is attached to the sheathing using galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer. When installing siding with your own hands, you must take into account the fact that the panel should not be tightly pulled to the wall with a self-tapping screw, but should move. This ensures the mobility of the panel during temperature changes. The bathhouse, covered with siding, will be protected from the effects of precipitation and will last for many years.

Additional costs

Additional costs include fasteners ( 30000 p), well, as with any construction site, there are unforeseen (not taken into account) expenses or the amount that should be “just in case” 20000 r.

Summary of additional costs: 50000 rubles

Grand total

Let's summarize the cost of materials for a frame bath measuring 6 meters by 4 meters with different roofing coverings.

Bathhouse covered with metal tiles: 403047 rubles

Bathhouse covered with flexible bitumen shingles: 415523 ruble

This article can be an assistant in calculating the funds needed to build a 6x4 meter frame bathhouse with your own hands. Of course, the calculations will not be exact, but approximate, since the prices for building materials in different regions of our country are different, and each person has different wishes for interior and exterior decoration. If you order such a bath in construction company, then at least 60% should be added to the resulting cost of materials. The amount received will be the cost of the turnkey bathhouse.

The popularity of frame technology is explained by lower construction costs and high speed erection of buildings. Both commercial structures and residential buildings are built on it. Frame baths are especially in demand today. You can easily build them yourself on your own suburban area. A 5x5 frame bathhouse is one of the popular construction options that you can build yourself.

Where to start building a bathhouse

Before starting the construction of a frame bath, it is worth planning the placement of the building. Pay attention to the following features:

• It is important to determine where the bathhouse will be located - separately or near the selected building on the site.
• Choose a place to install a bathhouse, taking into account the location utility networks, and also mark the routes for laying communications.
• Find out the soil characteristics on the site in order to choose a foundation.
• Develop a new or choose an existing bathhouse project, taking into account your own requirements.

Advice! The more detailed the bathhouse design is, the easier its implementation will be.

Many organizations offer ready-made projects. You can order from them individual project. The minimum size is 3x4 m. The optimal aspect ratio of the bath is 5x5 m.

Own bathhouse project

In order not to waste time creating drawings, you can choose an already created project as a basis. In this case, the layout of the frame structure must correspond to the building area. Then it remains to make some amendments to it.

For a future frame building project, it is important to consider:

• layout - it is important for the rational distribution of space;
• costs for the construction and operation of a frame bath;
• terms of work;
• features of the foundation structure.

All interior spaces are arranged in accordance with the number of pieces of furniture and their sizes. For example, when creating a drawing of a frame structure, the length of the benches is taken into account. To make it comfortable to sit in the relaxation room after taking water procedures, a table, sofa and armchairs are installed in it.

It is important to correctly determine the location of the waiting room in frame structure. It is designed in such a way that cold air does not enter the bathhouse when the doors are opened. In the washing compartment of the frame structure, a location for a water tank should be provided. The brooms are dried in a warm attic. Comfortable stay possible when creating a veranda or terrace.

Advantages of frame structures

The construction of a frame bath requires compliance with certain rules. Such a structure consists of a supporting structure, which is covered with OSB panels. Insulation and vapor barrier are laid between the wall slabs.

Advice! You can save on building a frame structure by choosing straw or sawdust for insulation.

A frame bath made of similar materials has light weight and therefore does not require the creation of an impressive foundation. It is easy to build it yourself.

Obvious advantages frame construction are:

• low costs for foundation construction;
• all work can be done independently, without using heavy equipment;
• short construction time.

Frame technology also has its disadvantages that require mention. The main disadvantage of such baths is their increased fire hazard. For this reason, it is better to carefully treat all structural elements with refractory compounds. For wiring in a frame structure, non-combustible casings should be selected.

Important! In a frame bathhouse, special attention is paid to moisture insulation of the walls. Mineral heat insulators perfectly absorb moisture, as a result of which their positive properties are lost.

Ready-made baths

It is not always possible to start building a bathhouse with your own hands. In this situation, they buy a ready-made structure. The kit includes the following items:

• mounting beam - it is used to create a frame;
• fastening kit;
• flooring material;
• roofs;
• wall panels;
• documentation package.

The set of documents contains project drawings and a description of the assembly instructions.

Attention! The walls in already manufactured baths are made of SIP panels, which facilitates the assembly process.

Materials

Materials are prepared in advance so that there is no need to purchase them in addition. For any frame bath you need:

Important! It is better not to use polyurethane foam for insulation. At high temperatures it begins to melt. In addition, this material is flammable.

You will also need to prepare nails and screws of various lengths. Given the high humidity inside the bathhouse, galvanized fasteners should be used.

Algorithm for building a bathhouse

A column-type base is best suited for a frame bath. You can build it using asbestos cement pipes. You will need elements with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 2 m. They should be buried in the wells to 1.5 m and filled with concrete-crushed stone mortar. The number of pillars varies depending on the size of the structure. For a 3x4 m frame bath you will need 12 pieces. When building a 5x5 m bathhouse, you need to prepare 18 pillars.

After installing the bathhouse supports, a timber frame is attached to them. The elements are fastened with nails. Roofing material must be laid under the strapping beams to ensure waterproofing.

Important! For the tightest fit of the harness to the foundation of the bathhouse, it is attached to the supports on metal corners.

Logs from boards are laid on the frame - they will be the basis of the bathhouse floor. The frame is treated with an antiseptic and fire-resistant agent. The installation of bath walls is carried out in the following order:

• Supports are installed in the corners, between which intermediate posts are placed.
• Sheets of bathhouse wall cladding are fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws.
• After finishing the sewing of the walls, openings for doors and windows are formed.

Important! When sheathing the walls of the bathhouse with OSB sheets, you should check their correct location. To do this, use a level.

The rafter system for a frame bath is assembled on the ground and then raised to the roof. Only then the sheathing is attached and the roofing is laid. After installing the main frame, doors and windows are installed. To build a frame bath yourself you will need:

• three days to install the foundation;
• three days to install the trim with the walls;
• two days for the rafter system;
• two days for laying the roof, installing windows and doors, as well as finishing.

Knowledge of these features helps to design and build a durable and practical bathhouse for the whole family.

Internal and external decoration of the bath

For the exterior decoration of frame baths, imitation timber or siding panels are used. Interior decoration requires special attention. First you should choose a lining. For the rest room and vestibule, you can choose pine. It requires no maintenance and looks quite impressive.

The steam room is decorated with linden or larch. These breeds are not afraid of high temperatures and are able to retain color. Sometimes other wood is chosen:

• abashi - tree from tropical forests, having low thermal conductivity;
• cedar - when heated, it begins to release essential compounds that are beneficial to the body;
• aspen - this tree is resistant to rotting and mold development.

Important! The lining is attached to the vapor barrier in such a way that there is a gap between the wood and the foil material.

A simple project for a 5x5 frame bath

When creating your own bathhouse, you should pay attention to existing projects. The spacious 5x5 frame building has several types of premises:

• vestibule - clothes hangers and a refrigerator are placed here;
• a relaxation room in this room should be equipped with a table and a sofa;
• washing - it should warm up well;
• steam room.

The steam room in the bathhouse should be finished with aspen clapboard. A corner shelf with dimensions of 90x270x270 cm is installed in this room. An additional narrow shelf is also installed in the steam room. The oven is lined with 120x120 cm bricks. A small window is made in the steam room, 30 cm wide.

In the washing compartment it is convenient to place a 90x90 cm shower stall. There is also a 90x200 cm lounger and a tank with hot water. The relaxation room in the bathhouse is made spacious - 190x320 cm. A table with a sofa is installed in this room. The window in the rest room is made large so that a lot of light enters it.

A 5x5 frame bath is installed on a columnar foundation. This is due to its low weight and low load on the ground.

When building a frame-type bathhouse, you should follow the advice experienced builders. This will help build a durable building. It is important to follow these recommendations:

• It is worth very carefully securing the vapor barrier layer at the junction of the walls and floor of the bathhouse. This affects the durability of the building.
• Additionally, you can create reliable thermal insulation for a frame bath from the street side. To do this, additional layers of hydro- and thermal insulation are attached under the lining of the bathhouse.
• The inside of the bathhouse lining should not be painted or opened with varnish compounds. Such compounds can release toxic substances.

The ceiling and flooring in the bathhouse are insulated with special diligence. It is necessary to use the same materials that were used to insulate the walls. A frame bath is a profitable and forward-thinking solution. Its construction will not take much time. If you develop a bathhouse project in detail and prepare everything necessary materials, you can build a bathhouse quickly and efficiently. Such an object will become a source of pride for the owners of the site.

Conclusions

It’s quite simple to build a 5x5 frame bathhouse on your site. A light columnar foundation is chosen as the base. The walls are made of beams and OSB panels. It is important to properly waterproof the grillage and roof elements. This will extend the life of the building. Based on ready-made projects, you can create your own drawing of a frame bathhouse that meets safety and cost-effectiveness requirements.

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided to build a sauna at our dacha ourselves. We already have it there capital house, and besides, there are no problems with electrification and water supply. The choice was made on frame construction, since it is not only economical, but can also be built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a design for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bathhouse, I began purchasing timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro- and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and regular red bricks, and refractory clay for the stove. By the way, I designed the stove for the bath myself. An experienced stove master helped me with the laying; after all, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a diagram of the stove on a checkered sheet of paper; I tried to film the construction process (including the construction of the house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, it’s quite difficult to build a bathhouse for two people, so at some points my son and I were helped by two more brave workers.

To begin with, a project for our future bathhouse was drawn up. We thought about the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, the location of water supply and sewer pipes, and the location of electrical cables were calculated. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the gable. There should be space under the roof for an attic where we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One is used as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two are for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and the washing room (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door for greater security of property during our absence from the dacha.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden stairs And gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build a columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 posts in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bathhouse and a storm drain will be installed, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We located the bathhouse in one of the corners of the site. Near high fence and trees. Ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a plunge pool or a small pool on the lawn near the bathhouse.

Foundation

The foundation, as I already said, under our bathhouse is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first angle was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and leveling it plumb. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure were useful. A cord was tied to the first peg, 450 mm was measured, the angle was checked and two more pegs were inserted, respectively indicating the second and third corners of the bathhouse. Having pulled the cord in the same way, we installed the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the angles with a square, measuring the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly moving the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next stage of the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement rods shallowly.

The bathhouse will have one interior partition connected to the corner of the stove. Using a tape measure, my son and I took measurements and marked the position of one post that will hold the partition and four more posts that will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. They will go one and a half meters underground and stick out from the ground another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The holes were dug quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was approximately 30 cm, that is, 5 cm larger diameter asbestos cement pipes.

To ensure that the posts stood firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the holes, and then compacted this backfill with a hand tamper. I made it myself by nailing a handle bar perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - pour gravel, take a log, lower it into the hole and knock with it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each hole, pillars were compacted and placed, 5 pieces were placed under the stove

My son and I mixed the cement for the posts in a small electric concrete mixer. They poured cement, sand, and some crushed stone, mixed it and poured in water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the hole, then the first layer of solution was poured into it. We lifted the pipe so that part of the solution flowed to the bottom of the pit, after which we lowered it, leveled it and then poured it to the top in layers of 20-30 cm. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. To avoid staining the pillars, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out quite neat. After pouring, we drove reinforcement bars (threaded rods) into the concrete. The upper edge was left to stick out slightly above the concrete in order to later attach the bars of the lower frame. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and the pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

Two days later, having had a good rest, I started working on the foundation for the furnace. I cut the chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. Most large leaf tried it on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I placed the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts and washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. The formwork was supported from below with boards.

To make the foundation under the stove stronger, I made a reinforcement frame. I found a welded mesh, cut two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be three-dimensional. Look at the diagram, it shows how the rods are arranged. Of course, ideally, do not use welded mesh, but tie it yourself soft wire separate fittings. Such a connection is more flexible and almost never breaks down.

Concrete mixed with a portion of fine crushed stone was poured into the formwork with the reinforcement frame laid. There’s not much to say here - they poured it in, drove out air bubbles with wire, compacted it, covered it with film and left it to harden. This process is lengthy and takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, having decided during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before I started laying the beams, I dug sewer and water supply pipes between the pillars so that later I wouldn’t have to crawl under the joists.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom frame is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation columns. I took a well-dried beam, 15 x 15 cm, and treated it with Senezh antiseptic. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high; wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the beams using the “claw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, I cut out all the ends, then laid out the beams in the clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - he coated the tops of the pillars with bitumen mastic and glued pieces of roofing felt to it.

To lay the strapping on the foundation, we had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The timber was laid directly on the posts, markings were made in place, after which I drilled. Having marked the first two beams, we laid them on the supports, checked them with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, and only after that tightened the locking nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for the intermediate posts; we cut down the reinforcement so it wouldn’t interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bathhouse. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

Now it's time to lay the floor joists. In order not to have to worry about cutting out the bars again, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, screws and a screwdriver.

I covered the top of the joists with OSB sheets. The result was a pretty good subfloor.

Zero is ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a cross-section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together using metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the racks should be from 60 cm to one meter, and this is what we did, except that the boards were installed a little closer to each other above and below the window lintels.

The walls are assembled using corners and 45 mm iron screws

We carried out the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to take measurements, cut and fix. Assembly is very simple - first, the two upper and two lower boards are fastened together, then the rectangles of the windows are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. Additionally, we strengthened the wall structure with jibs. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, above three windows and one door lintel We attached one more board each with self-tapping screws (we used galvanized ones, 45 mm) (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting with the front. It is very difficult to install the structure without distortions alone or even together, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and to the floors with stainless steel nails 100 mm long, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed on top of the walls. This method of frame construction is reminiscent of a children's construction set. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

Rafters

The roof of our bathhouse is gable with hanging rafters. In total we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we lifted them onto the roof.

The trusses were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastened the elements with perforated plates, I continued working, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bathhouse will rest on the boards of the top trim and be attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in those places where the rafters will come into contact with the top trim, as well as at the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for more aesthetically pleasing overhangs.

Roof trusses

The rafter truss, which serves as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical strips, and in the center I nailed two lintels in order to later install a ventilation window.

The two outer trusses were assembled from just two boards each. We attached these trusses last. The photo shows the bars holding them in place. Thus, we created small canopies on the back side of the bathhouse and above the facade.

Frame and almost finished roof

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bathhouse with Finnish Pural matt metal tiles, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tiles, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I secured with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, I fastened the sheathing boards.

I nailed sheets of metal tiles onto the sheathing. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tiles in one row, adhering to the following pattern:

• the sheet was lifted onto the roof with ropes;
• work started from the lower right corner. The first one was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
• The last sheet of the row was secured when the second row was laid.

Immediately, so as not to have to return to the roof several times, I cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

I installed the gutter with help. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bathhouse is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on this data, I purchased two pipes 2.2 meters long, two outlet funnels suitable for the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 plugs for the gutters. Another 4 elbows were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the cornice every meter. Four locks were also needed to secure the three-meter gutters.

I started work with markings. I took a stepladder, a tape measure, a marker, and thread and crawled under the roof. I needed to tighten the thread enough to attach the gutter with a slope of 5mm per 1m, so a total slope of 25mm.

I attached the two outermost adjustable brackets to the sheathing (15 cm from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were secured so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice strip to the sheathing.

By the way, I did all this work before installing the metal tiles, and laid the gutters directly when the entire covering was installed. I connected the pipes when the outer cladding of the walls of the house was done.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. This gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

I used a hacksaw to cut out V-shaped holes in the gutters, took the funnels and connected each one by simply sliding the edges under the outer bend of the gutter and then bending the flange over the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

I installed plugs at the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was secured to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel; I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed with dowels to the wall.

Bathroom wall cladding

For the outer cladding of the walls of the bathhouse, I chose Izoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these slabs strengthen the rigidity of bathhouse walls. I took “Izoplaat” 25 mm thick, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green slabs - Isoplaate, vapor permeable. Roof - Pural Matt metal tiles

I stretched the Izospan film over the Izoplaat slabs. This material is also waterproof and windproof, but still allows steam to pass through. I secured the material with a stapler, making horizontal and vertical overlaps of approximately 10 cm.

I insulated the inside of the bathhouse with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places because they did not fit into the space between the posts. Additionally, I didn’t secure the cotton wool with anything; it lay down quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began making plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finishing cladding.

The outer decorative lining of the bathhouse was made of clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, a bathhouse lined with wood has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to “breathe” and condensation does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin layers directly onto the vapor barrier. wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick.

Ebb tides for the base

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the installation of the lining began that I began installing the ebb for the base. I took green metal strips. The width I chose was only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bathhouse. To secure the ebb tides evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with installation from the far corner of the bathhouse.

I took the first plank and marked a line across the profile with a pencil in the center. I stepped back 5 cm from this line to the right and left, put points and connected them so that a triangle was formed. This triangle was cut out with metal scissors, after which he bent the strip, attached it to the wall of the house and screwed it special screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a diagram that I found on the Internet.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter were fastened in the same way - simply by screwing in the screws and checking the horizontalness at the same time. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the planks, I additionally strengthened the base ebbs with polyurethane foam - I applied it in a small amount under the planks.

Installation of lining

I decided to install the lining using clamps. Of course, you can simply nail the boards, but this is quite ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and secured it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted into the grooves of the first board of the lining on top (they were inserted next to the battens of the sheathing stuffed over the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Both boards were tapped with a hammer through the intermediate block so that they were tightly connected. Next, we inserted the clamps again and secured them with nails. The remaining boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and door openings.

I simply nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small canopy over front door. Later, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, covering it with metal tiles and installing a street lamp under the canopy.

Windows

Windows are a different story. They must be installed following technology and avoiding distortions. In a bathhouse, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but installed everything myself. To begin with, I took vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. The first one was secured around the perimeter window frame from the inside, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. Later I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame and tapped plastic spacer wedges to create a two-centimeter gap for the foam. The windows included mounting anchor plates with holes into which I screwed long self-tapping screws. Afterwards I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I only filmed from one window – the largest. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not get into my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try the frame in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I secured the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, having previously placed wedges under it for leveling. I filled the gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame with mounting foam, when it dried, I hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary edged larch board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid a foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, and basalt wool slabs on it, tightly inserting them between the floor beams. I pulled it over the cotton wool plastic film and secured it with tape. To finish, I simply nailed another layer of edged boards. All that remains is to make the hatch cover and secure the ladder. The fasteners were included, but I simply screwed all the parts to the floor beams.

I purchased a good quality ladder, retractable, equipped with a ready-made hatch cover. However, so that this cover would not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully covered it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch in closed became almost invisible.

Wiring

I dealt thoroughly with the issue of electricity, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes on terminals. In the panel there is a general RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, fortunately the distance was short. He screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bathhouse, and screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped.

The photo shows the clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

• the SIP wire is moved apart, a place for the clamp is prepared;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• the wires “wedge”;
• the anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

I installed sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a panel in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room I ran wires only for the lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because in these rooms it is too humid and sockets simply cannot be installed.

He took copper cables and pulled them through a non-flammable metal corrugation, which he secured with clamps. In some places we had to drill holes in the support beams to install the corrugation. I installed the socket boxes when I covered the walls with clapboard. And the sockets, switches and beautiful lamps(for the steam room I took it with a heat-resistant lamp, class IP-54) I installed it last.

I'm doing grounding. The grounding was done as expected - a triangle, the vertical corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. The RCD is triggered “at once”

The grounding was done as it should be - a triangle, the vertical half-meter corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. To do this, I had to enlist the help of an electrician friend who found welding machine. A triangle trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove the triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then they welded another section of steel strip, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bathhouse. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bathhouse in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (mine was 8 mm in diameter) from the grounding to the distribution panel. We wound the conductor around the bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine worked on the panel.

Everything took about two hours. I treated the metal strip with bitumen to prevent it from rusting. I dug the ditches, compacted them, and next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water treatments are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer system is a necessity. I provided a drainage well as the final collection point for wastewater. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, compacted the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings into the pit. The joint of the rings was coated with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - per bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and steam room. I ran another pipe from the location of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor and pipes were inserted into them. The three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe was laid at a slight slope along a dug trench to the well. One pipe was not long enough, so I had to connect two straight sections with a coupling. All joints are silicone. I first added sand to the bottom of the trench, and used it to fill the pipe after installation.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. I built the neck out of brick and attached it instead of a lid. metal hatch for gas tap. It is small in diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the drainage level in the well and pumping out wastewater with a sewer truck. But there’s no need to go all the way inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for the gas tap was installed. You can check the level and pump it out. There's no need to climb inside

Drains with siphons and filters were installed in the premises. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I preferred a product with metal grille, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grill itself is square with round hole in the center, when laying the tiles I didn’t have to spend a lot of time fiddling around with cutting. I installed the drain in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Brick cutting machine - grinder on a Chinese bed

I personally developed and designed the sauna stove myself. The laying was carried out by the stove maker, based on my sketches. The work began before the finishing floors were installed, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing felt was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. To prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also pulled to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks that form the ash chamber and the “appendix” necessary to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classic stoves with an ash chamber with an area equal to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed them with masking tape. I inserted a binding wire into the existing holes and twisted it. During the process of laying bricks, the stove maker placed the long ends of twisted wire between the rows, which ensured that the doors were securely installed.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally secured and part of the “appendix” was blocked. The grate was also laid here cast iron grate, cutting rectangular cuts in the bricks under it. The grid (size 20 x 30 cm) lay freely, with a gap of about 2 cm necessary to compensate thermal expansion metal

To make the ceiling strong enough, the bricks were hewn down into a wedge. Metal corners were not used when arranging the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised laying a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and firebox door were arranged according to the principle described above. The detailed masonry process is visible in the photo. Also installed in the firebox fireclay bricks with triangular cuts. These holes are necessary for supplying secondary air, without which the combustion of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, asbestos cardboard was laid between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. The bricks are hewn and installed on edge.

Also visible in the photo are red brick ledges on which cast iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. A fireplace portal will be installed on the right side of the stove, facing the steam room. And the cleaning and fuel loading doors open into the dressing room. Thus, smoke will never penetrate into the steam room and carbon monoxide, and you can splash some water on the hot stones - “steam”.

Bath stove. Adapter frame

Bath stove. Fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on rows 20-21. A ceiling was formed above the far smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which ensured the free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, instead of a ceiling, the stove maker installed a chimney valve. The part was placed in pre-prepared cuts in the bricks and secured with fireclay clay and two dowels (the holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedit drill).

Two rows later, another pipe valve was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass installed between the smoke channels (direct stroke).

Three valves - two per pipe and one bypass (direct stroke)

The photo shows a transition to a ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each row partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition a cut is visible round shape, into which a ceramic chimney will be installed, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

There are also brick protrusions on the side panels of the stove, which are necessary for further arrangement of interior partitions.

The furnace was covered right up to the ceiling. Metal corners were used on which the final row of bricks was laid. Asbestos sheets were laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

Installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian one, Effie Domus for the bathhouse) took very little time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixed with sealant and construction clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

A few days later they tested the sauna stove - they burned several newspapers. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making the finishing floor, I laid it in front of the firebox. steel sheet with ash receptacle. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor won’t catch fire if a coal accidentally falls out.

All the bricks that are left :)

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We insulated the floors in the bathhouse. The steam room and shower have tiled flooring, and the dressing room has laminate flooring. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and shower; there are many more important nuances there.

Laying tiles

The tiles were purchased from matte finish and rough so that it does not slip. We decided that tiles are much better than wooden floors - they don’t rot and are easy to clean. The glue was purchased with the best moisture resistance characteristics.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of EPS to the waterproofing, assembly adhesive was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the solution, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we attached the beacons not to the floor, but to an asbestos solution - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because... It was important to fill the entire floor in one day. The solution was spread from the bucket with a trowel onto the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide trowel and grout.

The tiles were laid away from the drain gutter to make it easier to maintain the slope. Each one was pre-soaked in water. The glue was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. In this case, glue was not applied to the entire surface of the floor at once, but only to the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The glue hardens quickly and cannot be coated with it immediately. large area floor. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected the excess glue around the laid elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. We cut the tiles with a manual tile cutter. By the way, for precision masonry we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for the seams. And for better contact of the tile surface with the binder, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

The laminate flooring was installed very quickly. We covered the floor over the insulation with film and nailed it moisture resistant plywood, rolled out the backing.

I unpacked the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it down, turning it with a small protrusion towards the wall. I inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the board. I took the second strip and snapped it into the end groove of the first. I leveled it and placed the wedges again. When I reached the opposite wall, I used a circular saw to cut off the extra piece of the laminate panel. The next row began from the segment. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which I lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then hammered it through the block with a mallet. The last row had to be sawed lengthwise, precisely measuring the cutting line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are covered with clapboard or tiled. First things first.

Laying tiles

We sheathed the walls on top of the insulation with moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board. Self-tapping screws were used for fastening. They were screwed in in increments of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the frame beams.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth from tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, carefully cut them into strips and screw them around the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower the first row was laid out of floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

I applied glue to the wall with a spatula, applied it and tapped the tiles with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. I checked the flatness and horizontality with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were laid with tiles of a different color.

Holes had to be drilled in some tiles for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First I drilled the hole with a spear drill. To prevent the tile from splitting, a piece of masking tape was glued on top. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a crown with tungsten carbide coating for these purposes. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Immediately during the laying process, excess glue was removed with a rag until the composition dried. The grout seams turned out smooth and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, I started working on the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. I used two colors of grout – white and dark brown. For the bath I chose a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's ideal for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket and did not add water.

Before applying the epoxy grout, I lightly wet the wall with a spray bottle. I collected the mass onto a spatula and then spread it over the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application using a rubber spatula. Well, finally, when the seams were dry, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the steam room were not sheathed with GVL. We stretched the foil vapor barrier and secured it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also taped well the joint between the ventilation air duct and the foil. On top of the foil I carefully stuffed slats - lathing.

I would like to draw the readers' attention to the horizontal position wooden planks linings. I specially positioned them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along wooden wall and achieve good air circulation necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if the constant dampness caused the lining to wilt or if it rotted after a couple of years. After all, we build a bathhouse from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal fastening allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to dismantle half the wall.

At first I wanted to just nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on clamps. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, there will be black smudges on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation to prevent the wood from rotting. And to attach the first and last strips, I purchased copper-plated finishing nails.

Installation started from the ceiling. I stepped back 3 cm, applied the bar, and nailed the nail into the center. I drove another nail on both sides of the board, and then checked the level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the tenon was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and move.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed to the sheathing with three nails. I inserted the second forcing panel with a tenon into the groove. I lightly tapped it with a hammer from bottom to top so that there were no gaps left, after which I inserted the clamps and nailed them. So I collected it all the way to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the tenon of the penultimate board and nailed it down. Along the way, I drilled holes for the wiring and often checked the horizontal position. I covered all the nails of the first and last panels wooden baseboard, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I told you how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, all that remains is to make the shelves in the bathhouse. For work I took linden boards and pine bars. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars and cut them with a grinder. I cut the ends of the horizontal bars that will connect to the front vertical posts using the tongue-and-groove principle. That is, I made a “spike” on the horizontal bars, and vertical racks"groove".

The first thing I screwed to the wall was the support posts. I would like to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor; a gap of up to two centimeters must be left. I attached cross members to the support posts. I simply took the mounting angle and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the point where they connected to the support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid boards on the frame and secured them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges and thoroughly sanded the boards and frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

Installation interior doors its principle is similar to the installation of an entrance door. The door in the steam room is glass, the door in the dressing room is wooden. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The connections are sawed at an angle of 90 degrees. First, I secured the side strips and the top using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box and blew out polyurethane foam. When it had dried a little, I carefully nailed the side strips with nails door frame, which closed the gap and a layer of foam.

I didn’t take pictures of the process itself, so I’m attaching a picture diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included; I attached them to the box and canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Next, all that remains is to hang the door on its hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a douche bucket hanging on the wall, a urinal, a shower and a faucet with spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a wall-mounted compact model with a faucet instead cistern, they brought it, unpacked it, and put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes; we marked their location, as well as the outline, on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

Holes for dowels were drilled according to the markings.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on the outlet of the sewer pipe, and then connected the pipe and siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and coated with red lead.

The urinal tap is very easy to install. The part is connected to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewerage, I coated the joint between the earthenware and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the functionality of the entire system.

A little about the dousing bucket. It's a wonderful device that spins when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket keeps it from overflowing. The bucket frame is secured with dowels, and water is supplied through a flexible hose.

The mixer and shower are installed according to the same principle. The package already contains everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot/cold water pipes, then took a level and adjusted them horizontally, while simultaneously bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next stage was the installation of the product itself. A thread was screwed onto the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I placed the mixer and screwed union nuts to eccentrics.

I am sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

Basement siding

To make the bathhouse look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation columns with basement siding panels. To secure it, metal strips are required to create the sheathing. Even a plasterboard profile will do. I would like to note that first I filled the blind area and made boardwalk from the side of the facade, and only then attached the sheathing and panels. Otherwise it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

For fastening the sheathing (lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring) used self-tapping screws and corners (I simply cut off pieces of plasterboard profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours; the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and secure the horizontal profiles using a level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in approximately every half meter. Masking elements are secured in the corners in the same way. I immediately made square slots in the panels and installed ventilation grilles (fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grilles on each side of the bathhouse.

Blind area

I poured the blind area between the foundation of the bathhouse and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just laid boards on three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Base - plastic panels “stone-like”.

Finishing touches

To give the bathhouse a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and a homemade staircase. The height of the steps on the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled using mounting angles and self-tapping screws.

I made a path from the gate to the entrance, and near the bathhouse I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood rack. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves, curtains, and hung brooms. In the future, I plan to arrange a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

It is not so difficult to develop drawings for a frame bath. In this article we will consider the order of their compilation.

To begin with, let's select ready plan on Internet pages.

We will draw a planning sketch of the bathhouse rooms on a scale, taking into account an individual approach, where we will adjust: the size of the rooms; location and size of window, door openings, equipment; Let's designate the arrangement of furniture in the rooms.

Let's take a look at the list of documentation and what is included in the standard.

Let's draw up general instructions and technical descriptions:

1. The foundation is shallow-buried strip (depth 700 (mm), including a sand-gravel cushion 200 (mm), base above the ground 300...400 (mm) high).
2. Lay waterproofing along the base of the foundation (two layers of roofing material).
3. All construction-related work should be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP:
- 01/12/2004 “Construction organization”
- 12-03-2001 “Labor safety in construction. Part one. General requirements"
- 04/12/2002 “Labor safety in construction. Part two. General requirements"

4. The supporting structure is made of dried wood (up to 15% humidity):

Frame posts – board with cross-sectional dimensions 50 x 150 (mm)
frame lintels – board with cross-sectional dimensions 50 x 150 (mm)
floor beams - board with cross-sectional dimensions 50 x 150 (mm)
ceiling beams - board with cross-sectional dimensions 50 x 150 (mm)

5. Wind insulation is installed on the outside of the frame.
6. WITH inside vapor barrier is installed.
7. Exterior finishing: lining; block house; decorative panels.
8. Used as insulation basalt slabs(non-flammable, heat-insulating, water-repellent, sound-proof).

9. Interior finishing:

Walls and ceilings - lining
floors – tongue-and-groove softwood boards with a thickness of 35...40 (mm)

10. Holes in the walls for communications are sealed hermetically.
11. Along the perimeter of the foundation there is a blind area under small angle for drainage of melt water.
12. All wooden structures are treated with fire retardant and antiseptic in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 2.02.11-85.

As a basis for the project, we can take as an example. The methodology for constructing drawings remains the same, only the walls and partitions will be framed.

Wall frame panel consists of:

1. Power frame frame.
2. Cladding sheet material.

POWER FRAME FRAME

It consists of frame racks (1) and horizontal lintels (2), which are assembled taking into account all window and doorways. The distance between the frame posts is 598…600 (mm).

The load-bearing frames of the frame are connected to each other.

An additional connecting post is installed in the corners.

Floor beams are attached to the assembled frame.

The bathhouse does not apply capital buildings, but its functional features do not allow starting construction without a project. Frame technology is ideal for this type of building: it is quickly erected and used environmentally clean materials, does not require large material and human resources, and is easy to design.

Ready project documentation or any other can be purchased at special bureaus or done independently. In the second case, any standard project for the selected size of the building will come to the rescue.

Before starting to design a bathhouse based on a frame, key issues are resolved:

• find the most rational location of the building, taking into account convenience and simplicity for supplying water, sewerage and lighting communications;
• plan the size of the future building;
• at the selected location, study the composition of the soil and differences in the ground surface. These factors will be decisive in choosing the type of foundation;
• solve the need to build 2 floors, an attic and construction external elements such as, terrace;
• determine the type of roof. Options for single-slope, double-slope and multi-slope structures are being considered.

When choosing the number of roof slopes, the dimensions of the bathhouse are taken into account, climatic features terrain, distance to other buildings, type of coverage.

The finished project will become an assistant in the rational distribution of spaces. Photos of bathhouses will also help you decide on your preferences.

Think ahead internal layout baths from a functionality point of view. Determine the installation location of the stove. It determines how the chimneys and ventilation will be located.

At the design stage, the issue of choosing the materials from which the structure will be built is decided and the approximate cost of construction is calculated. The more detailed the design of a frame bathhouse is developed with your own hands, the easier it is to make adjustments to it if unforeseen circumstances arise.

Option 4*5 m

The building, measuring 20 m2, is compact and suitable for a bathhouse consisting of three rooms:

• rest rooms;
• steam rooms;
• with toilet and shower.

When determining the dimensions of interior spaces, the calculation is made not for the “pure” size, but taking into account the thickness of the partitions and walls.

Most suitable area for a relaxation room 7-8.5 m2, for a steam room - up to 5 m2, for a bathroom - at least 2.2 m2. The small size of the building does not require a dressing room. The steam room houses the heater and the entire main surface of the stove. A firebox is brought into the rest room, which also plays a role. To prevent cold air from entering the bathhouse from the street, it is necessary to provide a closed porch.

Consumables and elements of a 4*5 m bath:

1. recessed 70 cm and plinth height 40 cm. To equip it, you need a gravel cushion up to 20 cm thick.
2. The frame consists of posts and trim along the upper and lower edges of the structure. It is optimal to use boards 100*50 mm.
3. The roof is gable with a rafter system made of 150*50 mm boards. Laying pitch 580 mm.

The cladding is selected depending on the required level of thermal insulation.

Option 6*6 m

The size of 6*6 m gives space for imagination. The design of such a bathhouse can include the following premises:

• terrace or vestibule;
• rest room and bedroom;
• steam room;
• full bathroom;
• washing room

Linear dimensions require the use of standard length lumber, which reduces the cost of construction due to the small amount of waste.

The washing room can be made extremely large with direct access from the steam room and place sun loungers in it. In another version of the project, it is planned to separate the washing room and the steam room with a small corridor connected to the rest room. In this case, the washing room will be somewhat smaller.

Option 6*3 m with terrace

The design of a 6*3 m bathhouse with a terrace comes in two versions:

1. is not included in the area of ​​the building and its size is planned separately. In this case, the overall size of the building will increase by the area of ​​the veranda.
2. The terrace is part of the common building. Then all interior spaces will be smaller.

The small size of the bathhouse will not allow you to equip a full-fledged bathroom. The stove will be heated from the rest room.

Choose a compact stove, perhaps the model will be narrow and elongated upward.

Removing it from the foundation of the main building will allow you to highlight small space from the rest room to the vestibule. Then it is possible to take a steam bath in winter time. Approximate dimensions of interior spaces:

• steam room – 3.5 m2;
• shower/washing room – 1.8 m2;
• relaxation room – 8.5 m2;
• vestibule – 2.6 m2;
• outdoor terrace – 11 m2.

To form the frame you will need a beam of 100*150 mm. They are strapped and floor joists are installed. For the roof, use 150*40 mm timber for the ceiling. The rafter system is laid from edged boards. A board with a size of 100*50 mm is suitable for this. The material for cladding and roofing is selected depending on personal preferences and climatic conditions.

Option 4*4 m with terrace

This size of the building requires only remote, but under common roof and on a common foundation.

An area of ​​4*4 m is larger for dry saunas. For Russian baths, this is not the most comfortable option.

The project involves dividing the common space into two parts of 8 m2 each and adding a terrace up to 6 m2 in size:

1. A relaxation room after the steam room, also known as a dressing room.
2. Steam room and sink.

The steam room should be made larger than a washing room. Then it will be possible to accommodate two people.

Option 5.4*6.3 m

A bathhouse with a total area of ​​34 m2 may have a built-in terrace. In this case, up to 2/3 of the total area is allocated to the interior. A typical project suggests the following room sizes:

• for relaxation in 11-12 m2;
• for the steam room – 5 m2;
• for sanitary needs - up to 6 m2.

The rest of the space will be occupied by the terrace. It is convenient to make part of the terrace closed so that warm air does not immediately escape into the street.

If a veranda is not planned, then a dressing room with an area of ​​5.4 m2 is made and you can plan for the presence of a bathroom.

The main advantages of frame technology

Advantages of frame buildings:

• the design is simple and it is possible to design and build it yourself;
• the building does not shrink and finishing works, installation of equipment begins immediately after the main construction;
• construction proceeds quickly, without restrictions on the time of year;
• the lightness of the design makes it possible to install any type of foundation;
• Any materials for cladding are suitable. Everything depends on material capabilities;
• environmental friendliness of the building;
• economic benefit in comparison with stone and brick buildings.

To perform the work, it is not necessary to involve heavy equipment and a whole team of workers. Simple construction tools and a maximum of one assistant will do.

What disadvantages do we take into account during construction?

Like all wooden buildings, a frame bathhouse will have an increased fire hazard. The design should take into account additional treatment with special compounds that will reduce flammability. Insulation materials are selected from the point of view of combustion resistance.

When building frame baths, you cannot skimp on quality electrical installation work. Electrical wiring is placed in non-flammable casings. When installing any electrical appliances, grounding is required.

High humidity in the bathhouse can lead to the destruction of mineral insulation if it is not covered with a vapor barrier. Therefore, it is recommended to use more functional materials as insulation.

All of the above disadvantages lead to higher construction costs.

Required materials.

A building built on a frame consists of the following elements:

• timber frame;
• cladding from finishing materials from the inside and outside;
• laying insulation, vapor barriers between parts of the sheathing;
• foundation of any type. The most commonly used are shallow belt or pile ones. Depending on the project, other types may be used.

Each element can reduce the cost or, on the contrary, make the final product more expensive, due to the selected materials.

To assemble the frame and floor joist rafter system, timber from high-quality tree species with parameters of 100*150 mm is used. The stability of the structure can be increased by using 150*150 mm bars. Modern technologies They offer laminated veneer lumber. For the remaining elements, smaller beams are selected. Any lumber or plywood is suitable for sheathing.

The following can be used as roofing material:

• roofing felt;
• corrugated sheeting;
• folded covering;
• metal tiles;
• Euro slate.

Ceramic tiles are very heavy and will create additional stress on the foundation.

Apart from the joists, the floor has a rough covering. It can be plywood, any type of board, special boards. Materials that have proven themselves well as external cladding are:. Can be used inside various types linings.

All wooden elements must be treated with fire retardants and antibacterial mixtures.

Insulation materials are selected that are resistant to rotting and burning. These are mainly mineral wools. The insulation layer is determined by the climate of the region where construction is taking place. If other types are selected, you must read the instructions so that they are resistant to the action high temperature, did not support combustion.

Additionally, mounting materials and interior finishing are purchased. Principle of choice: lightweight, moisture-resistant, fireproof.

DIY frame bathhouse, video

Building a frame bathhouse is not difficult. If you approach the planning stage responsibly, construction will proceed quickly and at minimal cost. And after a few weeks, you can come in and have fun.

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