Many of us use the balcony as a storage area for unnecessary things. Modern designers prefer to use it to extend the living area. To do this, the first step is to strengthen its base.
Most consumers prefer to insulate the floor on the balcony. This allows heat loss to winter period time. Modern building materials not only provide good thermal insulation, but also have an attractive appearance.
In our material you will find out which floor is best to use for a balcony. Presented here detailed recommendations experienced specialists who know all the intricacies of this process.
Preparatory work
The beginning of the work process is the careful preparation of the concrete slab. To do this, a cement-concrete floor screed is carried out. This allows you to slightly raise the base of the balcony to the desired level.
Before you start pouring the base, you need to clean the slab from various kinds garbage. This will ensure reliable adhesion of the cement to the concrete slab. Next, they begin to install metal fittings. It provides reliability to the future floor covering. Small cracks can be repaired using polyurethane foam.
Leveling the floor
Today, more than ten methods are known for leveling the floor on a balcony. These include:
- pouring method. This coating can last more than 25 years. Here you can use various pigments and decorations. It is preferred as the main accent in modern design;
- wooden floor on the balcony. He has a beautiful appearance. In addition, this coating has good thermal insulation. imitate natural massif, allows special technology applying texture;
- ceramic tiles. A wide range of models allows you to choose the appropriate type of ceramic coating.
Leveling steps concrete base can be divided into several stages:
First of all, you need to prime the surface of the concrete slab. For this they use special solutions. They provide antifungal protection and increase the adhesion of materials to each other.
Next, we begin to prepare the leveling solution. The contents of the pack will be dissolved in equal proportions of water. After this, it is thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer. The main task in the process of preparing the mixture is the complete absence of lumps.
When the liquid has reached the desired consistency, they begin to carefully pour it onto the surface of the concrete slab. During work you should not do sudden movements. It is important here to distribute the liquid evenly around the entire perimeter. The finished coating is left until completely dry.
The final stage will be laying specialized insulation. For this purpose, use fiberglass or mineral wool.
When all the elements are in place, they are reinforced with thin plywood. After this you can start choosing decorative covering. Many people prefer to install heated floors on their balconies.
How to raise the flooring on the balcony?
How to raise the floor on the balcony? This question worries most consumers. It's actually quite simple. This process includes several stages:
- Markings are made along the entire perimeter of the balcony to fix three longitudinal plugs. The side elements of the beam should lag behind the wall surface by about 6 cm on all sides. For the central log, draw a line, which is located at a distance of 30 cm from the side beams;
- after that they move on to marking the brackets. Tight fixation is ensured by special dowels;
- when the metal bases are installed, you can proceed to laying insulation along the entire perimeter of the balcony;
- then they begin to fix the wooden plugs according to the markings made;
- The final step will be the installation of the plywood sheet.
Instructions for laying ceramic tiles
The tile covering is striking in its diversity. Modern models have imitation natural materials. This coating method is used for open and closed balconies.
This surface is durable and reliable. Laying ceramic tiles is carried out in a strict sequence of actions:
- First of all, it is recommended to mark the coating. This will allow each element to be laid evenly;
- Start laying the tiles from the far corner. To do this, the surface of each element is coated with a small amount of glue using a ribbed spatula.
- then they begin to fix the first five elements. They will act as guides;
- During the installation process, a building level is used. It helps to avoid any deviations in the process of laying tiles;
- You can prevent the appearance of unevenness using plastic crosses.
When all the elements are in place, the floor surface is left to dry completely. The finishing touch will be caulking the seams. For this purpose special putty composition on an acrylic basis. After this, they begin to install the skirting boards. They help complete the composition.
Advantages and disadvantages of modern balcony flooring
Experienced experts suggest taking into account certain criteria when choosing materials. Each type of coating has both pros and cons. These include:
Linoleum. TO positive characteristics include: beautiful appearance, durability, good thermal insulation. The disadvantages include: high toxicity.
Improper installation can cause dents.
Ceramic tiles. It has an exclusive design and aesthetic appearance. In some cases, the coating has low slip resistance, and toxic fungal mold often forms at the seams.
Paint and varnish materials. They are low cost, form a bright base, do not emit harmful fumes, and are suitable for independent use. TO negative aspects These materials include: rapid loss of color, short service life, complete absence of a thermal insulation layer.
As you can see, each of the flooring design methods has its own characteristic features. The photo shows the floor on the balcony best options for improvement of living space.
Photo of floors on the balcony
The owner of a spacious country mansion can afford an open balcony or veranda, but in a cramped city apartment he has to fight for every centimeter of space. A balcony is most often seen as an extension of the living space. To do this, it needs to be insulated. It makes sense to insulate and decorate the balcony after it is glazed. Otherwise, the cost of insulation will be used to heat the street, and the finishing materials will rot from rain and snow.
The process begins with insulating the floor.
Insulation materials
IN country cottage, if you are laying the floor on a balcony or veranda on the ground, there are many options for insulation:
- expanded clay;
- sawdust-clay mixture;
- ecowool;
- mineral wool;
- polystyrene foam, etc.
Not all materials are acceptable in urban environments. For example, a mixture of clay and sawdust or expanded clay will have to be laid in a thick layer, and this will sharply reduce the height of the balcony. Let's consider several insulation materials, more or less universal:
Heating appliances: which one is better to choose?
If you have cold glazing on your balcony, and you do not plan to make an extension of the room here, the insulation described above will suffice. For a full-fledged living space where you can sleep in winter or set up a branch game room for a child, this is not enough. Additional heating is needed.
Floor heater on the balcony
Heating options – electrical appliances or warm floor. There are infrared films for ceilings and walls, they are more efficient and economical than electrical appliances. But you should start from the floor, because... warm air tends to rise upward by convection currents.
Infrared heaters (wall and ceiling) are also more economical than other electrical appliances, but are less efficient than heated floors.
Types of heated floors
If you are planning to install a heated floor, you can purchase special mats for it. Most often they are made of PPS and have ready-made channels for laying cables. The use of these mats even allows you to lay a cable floor without a screed, because the entire load will fall on the upper cut of the mats.
Gluing with aluminum tape
Important. When installing a heated floor, the presence of a foil layer or other reflective elements is mandatory.
If these elements are not included in the design of the mats themselves, a layer of rolled foil is placed directly under the cable or film. The joints of adjacent strips are taped with aluminum tape. This is necessary so that the heat from the floor is reflected to the maximum on your balcony.
Water. The most economical heating system in a country cottage. And if it is possible to tie into a gas main, then it is completely problem-free (otherwise you will have to regularly supply gas in cylinders). In urban high-rise buildings, this option is not considered, because organize here water heating almost impossible.
Electric cable. Most cheap option, good for both a cottage and an apartment. Not suitable for a balcony: cable flooring is usually laid with concrete screed, and it will significantly increase the load on the floor.
Cable heated floor under screed
All other electric floors can be laid without screed. This is technically simpler and saves space: a floor with a screed will take about 8 centimeters of height from the balcony.
Cable mats. This is the same cable, only laid like a snake on a film and attached to it. Mats are more expensive simple cable, but another drawback is more important: they cannot be cut. For narrow balconies choosing a design will be difficult.
Cable mats are easy to install
Infrared film— carbon plates sealed in a polymer film. The best option for a balcony:
- energy consumption is lower than that of cable flooring;
- high efficiency;
- can be cut;
- the film is thin and has almost no effect on the height of the room;
- The sections are connected in parallel: if one fails, the rest continue to work. The entire floor can cool down only in one case: if the thermostat fails. But the thermostat is placed on the wall, so you don’t have to raise the floor for repairs.
Film floor on the balcony
Carbon rod mats. This too infrared device, is considered stronger and more durable than film. But the price is much higher.
The recommended power of underfloor heating for a loggia is from 140 to 180 watts per square meter. It depends on the climate in the area and on the location of the apartment (corner, balcony against the wind, etc.). The floor on the balcony is laid separately from the rest of the apartment, because:
- for living rooms, the permissible power is less (no more than 150 watts);
- Each room should have its own circuit with a separate thermostat.
Types of flooring
There are several floor finishing options.
Tile
Ceramics, tiles, clinker, porcelain stoneware. The best option for both installing heated floors and covering a cold, unglazed balcony.
- When installing an infrared floor, waterproofing (membrane or polyethylene) is placed on top of the film, and a thin sheet of plasterboard or moisture-resistant plywood is placed above it. The sheet must be strong enough to withstand loads, but as thin as possible, because both of these materials are heat insulators and reduce the efficiency of underfloor heating;
- To tile a cold balcony, you also need a solid base. If the floor is concrete, it is enough to level it sand-cement mortar, if there are logs, put plywood or fiberboard.
Advantages of tiles:
- mechanical strength;
- water resistance;
- heat resistance;
- hygiene, ease of care;
- many design options;
- For heated floors– excellent thermal conductivity.
For insulated balconies without heated floors, the last property of the tiles is a serious disadvantage: the floor will always be cold. In this case, you may prefer wood materials– boards, laminate.
Ceramic tiles on the balcony floor
Material requirements:
- floor tiles are marked with a foot icon. For high loads– with a shaded foot icon, but such products are designed for floors in public institutions, in places with high traffic;
- anti-slip properties. Floor tiles are most often matte, rough, embossed or notched. If you are going to cover the floor on an open balcony, where it will be watered by rain, this condition is important. It is also recommended to take it into account if the house small child or a person with disabilities;
- for open balconies important characteristic– water absorption. The lower it is, the higher the frost resistance of the coating.
Terrace board
An excellent option for open balconies: minimal weight, environmental friendliness. Terrace boards already treated with antiseptics and water repellents, there is no fear of rotting and fungus.
Except wooden board(from heat-treated solid wood) there is a composite (wood + polymers). The coating is also suitable for glazed loggias, but it has a serious disadvantage: its high price.
Planed board
Suitable for a glazed balcony, and in the presence of hydrophobic impregnations - also for an open one. When using any wood materials, be sure to take care of antiseptic treatment. There are profile boards with already sawn tongue-and-groove locks. They do not require additional fastening with hardware.
The best choice (but the most expensive) are oak and yew boards. Linden, pine, cherry are soft woods, such a floor will last less. A compromise option is birch.
Photo: planed board on the balcony floor
Plank coverings outperform others in many respects - ecology, heat-protective and noise-proof properties, strength. Their disadvantages:
- cannot be used for heated floors due to low thermal conductivity;
- To install a plank floor, it is necessary to lay logs, and this will reduce the height of the balcony.
Finishing the floor on the balcony - important element repair work, giving the room an aesthetic appearance and increasing the level of its comfortable operation.
Today's market building materials allows you to turn almost any design and engineering fantasy into reality, and the balcony floor was no exception to the rule.
The flooring of your balcony can be: wooden, covered with laminate boards, covered with linoleum, trimmed with tiled or PVC tiles, covered with carpet. The decision to choose one type of flooring or another depends on the purposes for which the room being renovated will be used.
A glazed balcony allows you to significantly expand the circle finishing materials, because coating insulated from destructive effects external environment, will be much better protected from possible temperature changes, high humidity and atmospheric precipitation.
If the balcony is not glazed, then the best option its finishing is polyvinyl chloride tiles. This material has a large margin of strength, is not subject to corrosion, tolerates temperature fluctuations well, and is not afraid of high humidity. In second place, in the case of an unglazed balcony, is wood covering. If you use it, you must remember about the mandatory periodic maintenance of wooden flooring. Meaning preventive actions consists of periodically treating wood with specialized compounds that protect the structure of the material from rotting, destruction, and the formation of mold and fungi.
Floor finishing
The process of preparing the surface of a rough balcony floor
Preliminary preparatory work, which is a mandatory action immediately before finishing the floor, will be the same regardless of what type of coating is planned to be installed. The starting floor (concrete slab) must be cleaned of all kinds of debris and dust; if there are cracks, bulges and depressions on its surface, they must be removed to create a flat plane. In addition, the subfloor must be completely dry.
If there are remnants of the old coating on the floor, it is recommended to dismantle it. It is not advisable to lay a new floor on top of the old one, forming a so-called “sandwich”, because as a result of such actions, quality new finishes the floor will noticeably decrease, significantly reducing its service life. In addition, the old coating contributes to unnecessary weighting of the balcony, which best case scenario will lead to the formation of cracks, at worst - to.
Preparatory work before laying wooden floors, carpet, linoleum, laminate
laminate on the balcony First of all, clean, dry and flat surface it is necessary to lay a layer of insulating material. This is done to preserve heat and protect interior decoration from possible dampness. Penofol can be used as an insulating layer. Specifications This material makes its use advantageous in terms of price-quality ratio, and the ease of installation allows it to be installed in as soon as possible without the use of specialized tools. All you need to do is cut the material according to the size of the balcony and lay it on a concrete slab with a foil layer.
The next stage is the installation of wooden logs . They are laid parallel to each other at a distance not exceeding fifty centimeters. If necessary additional insulation balcony distance between wooden blocks is filled in insulation material. The subfloor is cut from sheets of plywood and attached to wooden joists using self-tapping screws.
The last stage consists of laying the selected floor covering and installing the skirting boards. Quite often preference is given moisture resistant plywood or planed boards, which are mandatory treated with a composition against rotting and the formation of mold and fungi. It is highly not recommended to use chipboard, because... This type of floor is very susceptible to moisture.
What to do before laying PVC tiles
If the renovation plans include, then before installing the tiles, you should cut the insulation to the size of the balcony and lay it in such a way that the foil side of the material is on top. Next, a second insulating seam is laid, which consists of styrodur. This material is extruded polystyrene foam, i.e. has outstanding heat-insulating properties, does not support combustion, does not accumulate moisture and has a good margin of safety.
When the thermal insulation materials are in place, you can begin preparing the cement mortar. This process must be carried out strictly following the instructions that the manufacturer usually places on the packaging of the material. Next, the floor is filled with the prepared solution, after which, if necessary, its surface is leveled with a damp spatula. The resulting cement screed leave to dry for at least 24 hours. After the floor has dried, use an adhesive mixture designed for working with PVC tiles and notched trowel, the process of laying tiles takes place. The last stage consists of grouting the tile joints with a special compound.
The benefits are obvious. The tiled floor is easy to clean using available cleaning products, does not require specialized periodic maintenance, and protects the balcony concrete slab that serves as the subfloor from negative influence changing climatic conditions, helps to improve the hygienic component of the floor.
Finishing polyvinyl chloride material, the installation of which was carried out strictly according to technology, will serve properly for a long time. many years active use, while maintaining its original beautiful and memorable appearance.
September 26, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and renovation ( full cycle carrying out finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
What to make the floor on the balcony from is a question that needs to be resolved before the start of repair work. Here, a lot depends on the condition of the ceiling, whether the balcony is glazed, and, of course, on our personal preferences. However, the process of arranging a floor is by no means limited to the choice of floor covering: no less important is how carefully we carry out all the preparatory work, as well as how effectively the insulation will be carried out.
In this article I will tell you how to properly organize work on major renovation floor on the balcony, and also describe the algorithm for performing the key stages of this process.
Step 1. Preparing the base
Slab inspection and repair
Before we make a floor on the balcony, we need to make sure that it has a reliable foundation. The base most often is a balcony slab, so at the first stage all attention should be paid to it.
I usually work according to the following algorithm:
- To begin with, I dismantle the old flooring and other structural elements - in general, I remove as much as possible everything that blocks access to the permanent foundation.
- Then I inspect the condition of the balcony slab, checking it for cracks. I examine the cracks themselves using probes - steel plates of a fixed thickness, which allow me to measure the depth of the defect and determine whether its spread in depth has stopped.
If the probe, after being immersed in a crack, rests against an obstacle, it means that there will be no deepening in the near future (most likely). If the plate gets jammed in a narrow gap, then there is a risk of further deepening of the defect until a through hole is formed.
- I clean all identified cracks from fragments of concrete and dust, and then expand them to stop their expansion and deepening. I fill the defects with a repair composition based on high-quality quick-hardening cement.
- Before filling a wide crack, I make several transverse cuts on it - they will help to secure the mortar more securely.
- I knock down fragments of concrete from the edge of the balcony slab, which are held only by the reinforcement. I make formwork from boards and pour mortar to restore the edge.
Waterproofing
When the repair composition polymerizes and dries, you will need to protect the base from moisture. Waterproofing can be carried out either by the surface method or using penetrating compounds.
Top sealing of the floor of a street balcony without opening is performed as follows:
- I clean the base from cement dust that gets on it during repairs.
- I lay several layers of roofing felt or waterproofing membrane on the concrete slab.
- Instead of roll material You can use painting moisture-proof compounds: I apply them with a brush in two or three layers.
- I pay special attention to finishing the gaps between balcony slab and the front wall of the house. Here waterproofing layer I raise it by 10-15 cm, forming a barrier against wicking.
Instead of surface agents, you can waterproof the concrete base using penetrating compounds (Skrepa M500, Penetron and analogues). The technology for their application will be as follows:
- We clean the concrete slab and moisten it with a spray bottle.
- Using a brush with synthetic bristles, apply the first layer of penetrating material.
- When the coating begins to polymerize, but does not dry completely, moisten it.
- Apply the second layer, making strokes in a perpendicular direction.
- For 48 hours (minimum), we ensure that the treated surface is not subjected to mechanical stress and temperature changes.
Screed arrangement
If we insulate the floor, then the question of how to level the base for the floor covering does not arise - anyway, the floor level will rise due to the thermal insulation layer. But for open balconies, leveling is most often done by pouring screed along the beacons:
- We install beacon profiles on the base, forming a slight slope towards the street. This is done in order to rainwater did not accumulate on the floor, much less flow into the room.
- We install along the perimeter metal corners, which are designed to strengthen the edges of the screed. You can also secure the perimeter with beams or boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more - they will prevent the solution from spilling over the edges of the balcony.
- We prepare a solution for pouring, using cement grade M300 and higher as a binder. We add plasticizers to the solution for rapid spreading and hardeners that accelerate polymerization.
- Fill the screed, carefully ensuring that there are no cavities in the solution. Roll the fresh solution with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
- Two to three hours after pouring, we remove the beacons, and fill the grooves formed in the ceiling with solution. We rub the surface, removing the largest irregularities and trying to get as smooth a coating as possible.
We dry the screed as usual: under plastic film, with periodic wetting of the surface. Poured concrete takes 28 days to dry, but this time can be reduced by adding hardeners to the solution. Anyway, further work should be postponed for at least two weeks.
Step 2. Insulation
Preparatory work
By insulating the floor on the balcony, we will reduce general level heat loss in the room by approximately 5 - 8%. In addition, the thermal insulation procedure ensures the formation of an acceptable microclimate for the balcony or loggia, so it is definitely worth spending time and money on this.
Even an unheated balcony will be more comfortable if we carry out the work according to the following scheme:
- First, we treat the base with a primer with antiseptic components. This is done in order to prevent the development of fungi, which will feel quite comfortable under a layer of insulation.
- Next, we decide on the thermal insulation material. Here everything depends not only on what result we want to get, but also on the configuration of the balcony. The thing is that when deciding how to raise the floor high, we should make sure that the raised covering will not interfere balcony door unforge: sometimes this imposes serious restrictions on the choice of thermal insulation.
- After this, we proceed to install the frame for the insulation. If the concrete slab has not previously been waterproofed, we place several layers of plastic film under the frame.
- Then we cut out logs from timber with a cross-section of at least 40x40 mm, which we lay on the floor. We attach the outermost joist to the wall with metal brackets, and place all the rest at the same level with it on support bars.
It is very convenient to align the logs on a plane using plastic mounting wedges, which are used when installing PVC windows. Such wedges do not deform under compression and do not swell in a humid environment, and their price is only slightly higher than that of wooden ones.
- The optimal step between the joists is 60-70 cm (this way the floor will not sag), but I prefer to focus on the width thermal insulation material.
Installation of thermal insulation
You can insulate the floor on the balcony using different materials. I usually use these options:
- expanded clay or perlite - if the configuration allows you to raise the level of the subfloor by at least 20 cm (or better by 30 - 40);
For more efficient functioning, the expanded clay layer can be filled with a very liquid cement mortar.
- polystyrene foam or polystyrene - an economical option that allows you to most effectively insulate the floor on the loggia, raised above the base by 10-12 cm;
- mineral wool is the most best solution, since, along with good thermal insulation potential, mineral wool has acceptable vapor permeability.
I do the work like this:
- If expanded clay is used, then I pour it directly onto the floor so that there is about 30 mm left to the top edge of the lag.
- I adjust the panels of thermal insulation material in size to the cells between the joists of the subfloor. This is done so that the insulation on one side does not wrinkle, and on the other, large cracks do not form during installation.
- I put polystyrene foam or mineral wool in the space between the joists. At the same time, I carefully ensure that there remains between the insulation and the rough flooring. ventilation gap 3-5 cm.
- I fill all cracks and gaps with self-expanding polyurethane foam.
- I put a layer of vapor barrier on top. When choosing what to cover with insulation, I usually give preference to foil film or thin polyethylene foam with a metallized coating. These materials not only protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture, but also play the role of a “mirror” reflecting infrared rays back into the room .
- I lay a subfloor on top of the vapor barrier. It can be made from boards, chipboard or plywood (preferably moisture-resistant) with a thickness of 15 cm.
It is not at all necessary to make the floor on the balcony with your own hands using exactly this algorithm. However, for a glazed loggia, which will be used, if not as a partial living space, then at least as a recreation area, neither waterproofing, nor screeding, nor insulation should be neglected.
In addition, do not forget about the floor covering: in many ways it determines how comfortable the room will be. I will devote the next section to the key aspects of the selection and installation of materials for this stage of work.
Step 3. Installation of flooring
Review of materials
It is impossible to say unequivocally which flooring on the balcony is better: each coating has its own scope of application, its advantages and disadvantages. That's why here I will give brief overview basic materials, and then I will describe installation algorithms for the most commonly used ones.
So, what to put on the subfloor to finish a balcony or loggia? We look at the table and select:
| Material | Features of use |
| Tile | It is with the help of tiles (ceramic, clinker or porcelain stoneware) that the floor on a non-sealed balcony is most often finished. The material is quite expensive, but then the structure is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, or climatic influences. |
| Polymer self-leveling floors | One more is enough modern solution, which allows you to maximally protect the base from moisture. Small area balcony allows you to fill even quite expensive polyurethane mixtures - all the same, the material consumption will be moderate. |
| Plank floor | Natural wood is most often used to decorate glazed balconies and loggias. At the same time, open structures can also be finished with wood - planken and decking work well here. Wood-polymer composite (WPC) should be included in the same category: they are not at all afraid of moisture, and visually it is difficult to distinguish them from natural wood. They are, however, expensive and not very well tolerated. severe frosts, but are easy to install with your own hands. |
| Linoleum | An economical option, which is usually implemented on balconies in standard high-rise buildings. Since the level of pedestrian traffic here is relatively small, you can use household models. The main thing is that the backing is thicker - then walking on the floor will be much more pleasant. |
Naturally, to the question of how to cover the floor on a balcony, other answers can be given: this is a cork laminate on a moisture-resistant basis made of pressed cellulose, and a soft floor - a puzzle, which is assembled from individual polymer elements, and other floor coverings.
Here it is important to choose an option that will meet the operating conditions and easily tolerate periodic humidification and temperature changes that are inevitable on a balcony or loggia.
Tiling technology
When choosing what to lay on an open loggia, many often choose the option with tiles or clinker tiles. The method of its installation is practically no different from the method of tiling floors in other rooms. So here I will give only the main points of the algorithm:
- For cladding we choose exclusively floor tiles- especially since you need very little of it.
- We prime the base, impregnating it with an antiseptic penetrating compound.
- We prepare tile adhesive with good adhesive ability. For open balconies, it is advisable to take moisture-resistant brands of glue that are elastic and not afraid of temperature changes.
- Apply the adhesive composition using a grater to both the base and the tile.
- We lay the tiles on the floor, press them down and carefully level them (maintaining a slight slope towards the outer wall of the balcony).
- To maintain a constant width of the seams between the cladding elements, we use special spacers.
- After cladding, remove any remaining glue from the surface and leave the balcony for about 12 hours.
- Then we remove the spacer crosses,, if necessary, unstitch the seams and grout them. For grouting, you can use any moisture-resistant composition, but here I would recommend using polymer materials: Even though they are more expensive and more difficult to apply, after polymerization they are not at all afraid of moisture.
Finishing the balcony with tiles is completed after the grout has completely dried: all we have to do is wash the surface of the tiles, removing any remaining glue and jointing mixture from it.
Laying linoleum
If for open balconies the default finishing option is ceramic tiles, then when decorating a glazed loggia, inexperienced craftsmen are often interested in how to lay linoleum. There are several nuances here:
- We take the linoleum roll onto the balcony and leave it there for at least a day. All the same, deformations of the coating cannot be avoided (temperature changes here are sharper than in an apartment), but it is very important that the material is sufficiently stable at the time of installation.
- Then we roll out the covering on the floor and perform rough trimming. Along the walls we leave a margin of 40-50 mm for shrinkage of the canvas.
- You can lay linoleum on the balcony without glue, but I still prefer adhesive installation as more reliable. To do this, I fold the roll in half and apply a layer of PVA-based glue to the freed part of the subfloor.
- I unfold the linoleum back and smooth it, removing folds and air pockets.
- I repeat the operations for the second half of the material.
- 12 hours after gluing, I perform the final trimming: trimming the edges so that the gap to the wall is about 5 mm.
- The work is completed by installing a plinth around the perimeter of the balcony and fixing the edge of the canvas at the entrance with a small threshold, which should fit closely to the balcony.
Conclusion
Of course, you can finish the floor on the balcony using other technologies. However, the algorithms I propose will be useful not only for beginners, but also experienced craftsmen finishers, so before starting repair work you should carefully study the video in this article, which contains a number of useful recommendations.
In addition, you can seek advice on arranging floors on the balcony by asking a question in the comments.
September 26, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
The balcony is a storage place for old, unnecessary things. However, it can be turned into an elegant extension of the apartment. Any transformation begins with laying strong foundation, which, in the case of a balcony, is considered to be the floor. Lay a wooden covering on it or cover it with tiles - the choice is up to the owner of the house.
Any new floor option requires initial preparation of a concrete slab. To do this, you need to do a thorough cleaning. It is more convenient to use a vacuum cleaner instead of a dustpan and broom. If there are cracks in the concrete, they should be repaired using putty, and the gaps between the slabs should be covered with polyurethane foam.
Preparing the base
The main thing to start with is to level the surface.
Let's use a simple and in an accessible way, self-leveling floor.
Below are instructions on how to do this correctly.
- Carefully prime the surface. After the material has dried, clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner.
- Strictly following the instructions, prepare the mixture in a bucket. For kneading, a drill with a whisk attachment is usually used.
- We begin to pour the composition, gradually moving from the far corner towards the exit. In the process, distribute the liquid with a metal spatula with a smooth edge.
Use a spatula on long handle for mixture distribution
- When the surface is completely covered with the mixture, you will need a needle roller. They need to walk over the surface several times. This procedure will remove accumulated air bubbles.
- After 4 hours you can walk on the floor. Complete drying will take several days.
Attention! Ready mixture must be used within 30 minutes after mixing.
Insulation of the base without changing the height of the ceiling
If you want to insulate the floor on the balcony without any problems and cover it with laminate, you should use electricity. Or rather, installation of heated floors. Of the materials available in stores, the most suitable is an infrared heater. To install it, you do not need to make a screed, which will raise the floor by 10-20 cm. Let's get to work.
- We start by laying penofol or other heat-insulating material, over the entire area of the self-leveling floor.
- We distribute the heating elements in the same way, on top of the insulation.
- We use bitumen insulation to protect the copper contacts from the edge adjacent to the parapet from moisture.
- Let's sum it up electrical wires from the opposite side. Solder them to the contacts.
- We also cover all remaining electrically conductive contacts with an insulator.
- We supply power to the thermostat. We connect the temperature sensor and place it under the heating elements, fix the wire with tape.
- We check all connections and carry out a test run of the system.
- The final step is laying the laminate. Detailed instructions process is given below.
Attention! Incorrect installation and poor moisture protection can lead to a short circuit. This will lead to exit heating elements out of order. You will have to open the laminate and replace or remove the heated floor.
Insulated raised base
Glazing will increase the temperature on the balcony, but only by 10-12 degrees. An additional measure is to increase the thickness of the floor. In addition, new cladding methods will be added.
- We mark the position of the three longitudinal logs. The side bars should lag behind the walls by 5 cm, and the central one by 40-50 cm. Draw the lines on which the logs will be located.
- We calculate the joint of the plywood and draw a line. There will be a cross beam here.
- Mark the mounting locations for the brackets. They should be at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. On the line of the cross beam, the brackets will be located one at a time between the joists.
- We fix the brackets to the walls using dowels.
- We cut off two pieces of insulation, the length of the entire balcony and a width of 20 cm. We lay them along the edges, cutting holes for the brackets.
- We lay the two outer longitudinal logs. If the timber is not long enough, their joint should be in the middle of the holder.
- We fasten the timber with a self-tapping screw, at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor. We level it with a level and fix it from the opposite edge.
- It is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw from the wall side, the distance is too small. The remaining fastenings of the beam to the holder are made with a bolt and nut. To do this, you need to drill through the joist and screw two bolts into each bracket.
- We align the second lag relative to the first and secure it.
- We attach the holders for the intermediate joist. We lay a strip of insulation.
- We align the beams relative to those already installed. All fixing is done using self-tapping screws.
- We install the cross beam. We install the brackets according to the prepared markings. We attach the block itself to the longitudinal joists using metal corners. We fix the joist in the holder with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, relative to the central joist, we repeat the process
- In the same way we make 4 more lags.
- We fill the empty space with insulation up to the top edge of the bars.
- We lay the plywood, leaving 5 mm from each wall for its expansion.
- Two sheets of material, at the junction, should occupy half of the transverse joist. This will allow them to hold tightly and eliminate the risk of breaking the edges.
- We fasten the plywood sheets with self-tapping screws to the joists at a distance of 15 cm from each other.
- We recess all fastener heads into the material.
Below is a table with the materials you will need for all the basics. It will also indicate the quantity and approximate cost raw materials.
| Material | Quantity | Unit price |
|---|---|---|
| Cold base | ||
| 2 bags of 25 kg | About 800 rub. | |
| Insulated base without raising the floor | ||
| Warm infrared floor | 3-4 sq. meters | 800 rub. per sq. meter |
| Penofol | 3-4 sq. meters | 64 rubles per sq. meter |
| Insulated raised base | ||
| Beam for logs (length 3 m, size 45 by 70 mm) | 5 pcs. | 79 rub. per meter |
| Bracket (holder) made of galvanized steel, height 166 mm | 30 pcs. | 60 rub. |
| FSF plywood 6 mm thick | 2 pcs. | 790 rub. |
| Metal corner | 12 pcs. | 3 r. |
| Dowels 6 by 60 mm | 60 pcs. | 50 kopecks |
| Self-tapping screws 4 by 30 mm | More than 100 pcs. | 30 kopecks |
| Bolt with nut 6 by 60 mm | 12 pcs. | 2.5 rub. |
Cold floor covering
The floor of an open balcony is constantly exposed to harmful influences. In summer the sun bakes it, it is flooded with rain, and in winter it is covered with snow. When choosing a coating, these factors should be taken into account.
Facing tiles. Installation instructions
Such a coating will cope with any threats, and it is also convenient to clean. You can limit yourself to one type of tile, or lay out a pattern that will please the eye. The base has already been prepared, let's start finishing.
- We start marking from the corner farthest from the door and adjacent to the parapet. This is where the first row of tiles will be laid.
- Using a spatula with a serrated edge, apply tile adhesive. It needs to be distributed over an area of 3-4 tiles.
- We lay the tile on the rough side and press it tightly. The adhesive composition should evenly fill all voids. If you miss this moment, over time the corners of the tiles will begin to break due to the load.
- To ensure an even seam, plastic crosses are applied to the corners of the tiles. After the glue has hardened, they must be removed.
- The next step is filling the joints with grout. Its color should be harmoniously combined with the rest of the surface.
- After a day, the remaining grout and glue are removed. A thorough cleaning is carried out.
- The baseboard is glued.
Attention! It is better to choose tiles with a rough surface. It will be less slippery, especially in winter.
Reference. The tiles can also be laid on a plywood base of a raised floor. However, tile adhesive should be replaced with mastic so as not to spoil the base.
The right way to install decking boards
For those who don’t like tiles, there is another option - special boards. This composite material able to withstand moisture and temperature changes. The installation process is simple and takes little time.
- First, you need to lay the logs along the width of the balcony, every 50 cm. The ends of the bars should be 10 mm behind the walls. This will compensate for the expansion that will occur over time.
- Each lag is secured with three anchor bolts.
First of all, you should choose a material at least 3 mm thick with a special pile. Thanks to the hairs on the rough side, the floor will be softer and warmer. Also, the size of the piece should allow it to completely cover the entire area of the balcony floor.
Before laying, the roll should be unrolled and allowed to lie on the balcony. This will allow the material to level out and “get used” to operating conditions. In a couple of days you can start working.
- All rows after the first are mounted so that each subsequent board is shifted by half the length of the previous one. The material must be cut with a jigsaw with a special file. It does not have inclined teeth and will not leave chips on the front surface of the laminate.
- To install last row a staple or nail puller is used. It is inserted into the slot and secures the board in the groove.
How to lay laminate flooring yourself
Attention! Linoleum, parquet, laminate flooring in non- glassed balcony threatens rapid deterioration of the coating.
Pros and cons of coatings
Naturally, it does not happen absolutely the right choice. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the amount of light entering the balcony. Consider options, future use of space, and level of your own skills. However, knowing the positive and negative traits material, you can get a result close to perfection.
Terrace boardMaterial Pros Cons
Moisture-resistant laminate will not deteriorate if exposed to water.
Impact sunlight, changes in temperature and humidity will not affect the material.Violation of the assembly technology will lead to creaking when walking, or swelling of the coating.
The material has increased toxicity in case of fire.
May break if heavy objects fall on it.
Has high resistance to aggressive external environments.
You can create a unique design. Easy to assemble.
Reliability and durability of the coating.It will greatly increase the load on the slab, which can lead to its destruction.
Low cost.
Easy to apply.
You can quickly change the color if you wish.
Makes cleaning easier.The paint fades in the sun.
The coating will begin to deteriorate after a year of use.
Lack of insulation.
Unsightly appearance.
The apartment becomes a home for many years. How cozier home, the more pleasant it is to return there after work. On our own, with minimal investment cash, can be easily obtained extra room, flower garden or just a place to relax.
Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor on the balcony