Agricultural technology for growing garden strawberries and strawberries in open ground. Growing strawberries in open ground from seeds to seedlings: technology and care secrets

Strawberry is the queen of berries! It is long-awaited for every gardener. The growing season has 2 waves: in spring and summer after the first harvest.

For successful cultivation To grow strawberries, you need to choose the right site, variety, seedlings, observe crop rotation, planting method and be prepared to combat pests and diseases.

Soil and place for growing strawberries. Strawberries grow best on black soil, loamy and sandy loam soil, on dark gray forest soils on small southwestern slopes.

Productivity will be worse on light gray, peaty, clayey, sandy or soddy-podzolic soil, in lowlands. , you need the pH to be 5 - 6.5. The groundwater level should be at least 60 cm, and the soil in winter at a depth of 15-20 cm should not freeze to -8°C.

How to prepare a site for planting strawberries

The Colorado potato beetle, strawberry nematode and others will not refuse such a delicacy as strawberries. Before planting, it is better to check the area for the presence of their larvae. After the snow melts and the soil dries, collect all remaining vegetation and burn it. If there are a lot of larvae, then alkaloid lupine is planted, which kills the larvae, or the soil is treated with ammonia water (20 kg per 100 square meters). You can clear an area of ​​grass weeds in the fall using Roundup (2.5-3 liters per 1 ha). Plow the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm in October. In the spring, harrow and cultivate immediately before planting to a depth of 15 cm.

How to determine the quality of seedlings for planting strawberries

The best seedlings are those that have root collar in diameter more than 6 mm, and the root system is fibrous, in root shoots more than 7 cm. Seedlings should have 3-5 leaves, a whole apical bud and succulent roots white 3-5 cm long.

Strawberry seedlings obtained externally or selected locally need to be planted faster. If for some reason planting is delayed, then the seedlings can be stored for 2-3 days buried in damp, loose soil in a shaded place or a cold room (basement, cellar), with the roots wrapped in damp moss.

How to plant strawberries

Strawberry seedlings are planted in early spring(as early as possible) or very early autumn. Autumn planting is carried out from August 10 to September 25, after thoroughly moistening the soil. Do not delay planting, as later spring or autumn planting will significantly reduce the yield. There is an opinion that you can plant strawberries in summer time, July-August, two-line method. Then in the spring you can grow early vegetables in the selected area. But in the south of Russia and Ukraine in the summer autumn period there is little precipitation, and the air and soil temperatures are so high that no amount of shading or watering has the desired effect. Planted plants quickly wither and die.

5 days before planting, the seedlings are kept in a cool place; immediately before planting, the roots are dipped in clay mash for better survival and to avoid drying out. Plant in moist, but not wet soil. During planting, the box with seedlings should be in the shade. If the root system is too long, shorten it to 7-10 cm.

To prevent the soil from quickly drying out and forming a crust, the holes of watered plants should be sprinkled with earth, or even better, with humus. After planting, the soil on the site is compacted; it should be loosened to give free access to water and air to the roots of the plants. If the weather is dry, watering should be repeated as needed.
Clay mash recipe:

• Pour 1/2 a bucket of orange clay with water to slightly cover the clay, and leave to infuse.
• After a while it will become a creamy mass.
• If the lumps of clay have not completely dissolved in the water, then stir the mixture several times so that the water can completely absorb all the lumps.

Ways to grow strawberries in the country

Growing strawberries in beds using the line method

With this placement, 600 to 670 seedlings are required per 100 m2.

Any time for planting strawberries can be chosen except winter. In spring, strawberries are planted as early as possible, in early April, since if you plant them in May, development will be much slower. If you plant in July-August, you can harvest the next season. The last date for planting strawberries is mid-September.

1 - two-line; 2 - one-line; 3 – two-line on ridges

For planting, choose cloudy and damp weather. You can plant using the single-line method, the two-line method, or the two-line method in beds. The most optimal is considered to be two-line planting, where the distance between plants is 15-20 cm, between ribbons (rows) 60-70 cm, between lines 30 cm. With a single-line planting method, the following distances are maintained: between plants 15-20 cm, between lines 60-70 cm. Place the beds from north to south, plant 2 rows of strawberry seedlings along the edges.

Plant strawberries on small areas follows the cord. To do this, at two opposite ends of the section, using a tape measure, you need to make marks for future rows and lines. Place pegs in the marked places and pull a cord on each two opposite pegs. Using a 25 cm stick near the cord, mark places for planting plants in the row. Make holes on the same side of the cord using a bayonet, and on loose soil using rippers or your hands. A liter of water is poured into the hole. When the water is absorbed into the soil, the roots of the seedlings are placed in the resulting mud and covered with mud well, the holes are covered with dry soil, which then must be pressed tightly. The holes should be of such depth that the roots of the plants do not bend when planting. Before planting, it is necessary to inspect each strawberry bush and remove plants with diseased, rotted leaves and roots. For seedlings intended for planting, the roots should be shortened somewhat, leaving them 5-7 cm long. This will contribute to more strong development lateral roots.

To protect strawberries from pests, dirt and rotting, place roofing felt or lutrasil on the ground, making holes in it 25-30 cm apart (cut the canvas crosswise with a knife and bend the corners into the soil).

Make a hole with a bayonet shovel and place the seedlings so that the heart is level with the soil surface. If the heart (growing point) is deep, it will rot, if high, it will freeze from the cold in winter.

1 - correct;
2 - irregular (deep);
3 - incorrect (high)

Cover the roots with soil and compact them a little. Water at the rate of 0.5 liters per plant and so on for 7-10 days until it takes root. Be sure to mulch after watering. It is important that when planting the roots are located freely in the hole and the soil fits tightly to them. With this planting, the plant, when pulled by the leaf, is not pulled out. If the roots are not tightly pressed into the ground, the plant takes root more slowly and may die.

Do not leave the covering material on the site for the next year, as the ants will create colonies under it, which will be extremely difficult to fight – the plants will die.

In dry, hot weather, shade the plants with green branches or burlap and mulch after watering to prevent the soil from crusting over. In November, strawberries are covered if there is no snow cover yet.

Growing strawberries under cover (film tunnels)

Shelter allows plants to develop faster, ripening several weeks earlier than plants planted in open ground. This is how they are usually grown early varieties strawberries The simplest shelters are film tunnels. Strawberries are covered during the 1st and 2nd years of fruiting. Install the tunnels in late April-early May: install wire arcs placed 1 meter apart, from the ground to half a meter high. Bury the ends into the soil and secure the film to them. The film may sag on the sides and top, so the arcs should be secured with twine. Film tunnels need to be ventilated from time to time, watered, mulched and harvested, which means one side needs to be made blank by sprinkling with earth or placing heavy objects on the edges of the film, and on the other side attach a rail to the film. At the end of the shelter, collect the film, tie it in a knot, tie it to pegs, which you then dig into the ground.

It is not difficult to care for strawberries in film tunnels; place the thermometer in a shelter; if the temperature inside the structure rises above 25°C, then it is urgently necessary to ventilate. When on the street good weather and the strawberries are blooming, the shelter is removed for the day. When the crop is harvested, the film is removed.

• In summer, water strawberries once a week early in the morning. warm water. Weed the beds periodically. Fertilize your plants and watch out for pests on your strawberries.
• In autumn, strawberries are covered with straw, spruce branches, corn stalks or fallen leaves (spunbond or lutrasil are also suitable). If there is no such covering material, then hill up the bushes without covering the growing points. Immediately add compost, peat, or a mixture of both as fertilizer.

Growing strawberries in vertical beds

Growing takes place in multi-tiered containers. This method can be used both openly and in closed ground in cases where the soil is infertile, heavy, with a high groundwater level, near fences and various buildings. An undoubted advantage is the ability to obtain a large amount of harvest with small area landings.

As containers for vertical growing strawberries use any cone-shaped and pyramidal shapes, 10 cm high. Containers must be positioned in such a way that there is a distance of at least 10 cm between plants, and the volume for each root system is at least 1.5 liters. Containers are filled with a mixture of equal proportions of peat, humus and turf soil; you can use peat and turf soil in a 2:1 ratio and a little sand.

Having prepared containers and freshly dug strawberry seedlings, planting begins from the lower tier. Such strawberries require regular watering with warm water (2-3 times a week, 200-300 g for each bush), fertilizing with fertilizers (combined with watering) and removal of the whiskers.

Plants are protected from frost as follows:

• Remove the containers and place them on the ground, cover them with agrofibre, leaves or peat.
• If frosts intensify, the layer of “insulation” is also increased, plus covered with a layer of snow, trying to keep the temperature inside above 6°C.

Growing strawberries under agrofibre

Thus, berries can be obtained earlier, by about a week. When the snow melts, the strawberry bushes are covered with agrofibre, which allows you to create good temperature for the growth and development of plants, and also protects against temporary frosts and winds. When weather become stable, the material is removed.

You can get a harvest 2 weeks earlier than usual by using a tunnel under the agrofibre. Long wire frames 2 m long are installed in an arc along the rows of strawberries at a distance of 1 m from each other, using wire 4-6 mm thick. They are deepened into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm, fastened on top and covered with agrofibre in April, burying the ends in the ground. If the weather is warm, slightly open the ends of the agrofibre for ventilation. If the weather is completely settled, then the material can be opened completely. Cover with agrofibre immediately after the plants have flowered.

An effective way to grow strawberries from seeds

This interesting way, which is not suitable for every strawberry variety and especially not for hybrid varieties.

Prepare a container or box at least 10 cm deep, fill it halfway with purchased seedling soil, and water thoroughly. Spread out the strawberry seeds and cover the box with glass. Attention: there is no need to cover the seeds with soil! Place the box in warm place, the soil will be moist, and when the first shoots appear, move it to the brightest place. Remove the glass from the box. When several true leaves appear, plant them in pots and fertilize them every two weeks with a special fertilizer for strawberries. As the seedlings grow, they can be transplanted into open ground at the dacha. In order for growing strawberries from seeds to result in a good harvest, it is important to follow some more rules: plant the seedlings shallowly, and do not cover the apical bud. Strawberries that are not planted deeply enough may expose the roots when watered.

How to collect strawberry seeds: To grow strawberries from seeds, you need to use only the best large berries, which are harvested in July-August. Using a blade, remove a thin layer of berries and rub on a cloth. Dry in the sun, clean the seeds and collect in a paper bag. Store at room temperature for planting.

To grow strawberries from seeds, pay attention to such varieties as: Mutofavorit, Bogota, Lakomka, Sakhalinskaya and others. So that you can enjoy strawberries all the time, choose varieties with for different periods maturation.

How to water strawberries

1. Strawberries are watered from a watering can. This watering method is suitable for small planting beds.
2. Watering strawberries with a hose is a minimal cost physical strength, but it takes a lot of time, the water is unevenly distributed, there is a possibility of damaging the seedlings and you cannot water it with warm water, as strawberries love.
3. The presence of a well or borehole on the site is also a possibility.
4. Drip irrigation from irrigation system manufacturers - food (water) is supplied directly to the root system. Suitable for growing strawberries using bag or container methods, as the system is installed in a pipe break. For ordinary beds, a system is suitable that is installed in lateral surface or at the ends of the pipe. “Factory” drip irrigation is also good because, along with water, plants can be fed with fertilizers (fertigation). The disadvantages are the cost and the inability to protect plants from frost.
5. Sprinkling using sprinklers: circular, fan, swinging, rotary and other types. But here it is advisable to use warm water.
6. Along the furrows: before planting, make furrows, water well and plant the seedlings in the walls of the furrow, depending on how many rows are planted.

You can determine the soil moisture level as follows: dig the soil with a shovel to the depth of the roots and take soil samples, squeeze them in your hand and determine by touch how moist the soil is.

Strawberry care

Remove weeds and any pests you see, and loosen the soil after watering or compacting. If in the year of planting the soil was supplied with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, then in additional feeding Strawberries are not needed. If not, then in the spring, when digging, you need to add 15 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt, 30 g and 10 g, respectively, per 1 sq.m.

Winter strawberry care

A luxurious snow cover will be an excellent means of protecting plants from frost. The layer should be from 10 to 20 cm. In the absence of snow and mulch in the form of straw at a temperature of -12-16°C, plants may die.

Development of strawberries in subsequent years

Second year after planting

In the spring, when you see young strawberry shoots among the foliage, remove the cover, remove yellowed and dried leaves (burn them), as they could have overwintered on them different kinds pathogens and pests. Do not touch last year's green foliage, it will nourish the plant and protect the buds from spring frosts.

Let the soil dry so that you can loosen the rows well. Then just water and loosen. When the ovary forms, spread sawdust, straw or peat; such mulch will serve to retain moisture and protect it from rotting and bending to the ground during the fruiting period.

That’s it, now we’re harvesting and waiting for the strawberries to start “throwing out” their mustache. Inspect the beds every week, pointing the tendrils into the strawberry rows to compact them. In one season, an adult strawberry bush should have 3-5 young shoots. With greater density next year, the yield will fall, the berries will become smaller, and more diseases will develop. Remove the weakest tendrils; they will drink juice from the plant, which can be used to develop stronger ones. Before winter, cover the strawberry bushes with spruce branches, straw or other covering material.

The third and fourth years after planting strawberries

Here the care will be the same, it consists in regularly removing all the tendrils (the bushes no longer need to be compacted), if necessary, remove the foliage at the end of the season and regularly hill up the adventitious roots (next to the soil surface).

What summer resident doesn’t dream of planting strawberries on his plot and getting good harvest this everyone's favorite, delicious and healthy berries? But not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance. Strawberries (also known as muscat strawberries) are a rather demanding crop, and without following the rules of agricultural technology, expectations may not be met.

Growing strawberries in open ground involves planting and caring for it in an open-air garden, without greenhouse equipment.

1. The surface of the bed should have a slight slope towards the southwest.
2. Lowlands are not suitable for planting strawberries; cold air is retained in them, which has a detrimental effect on strawberry bushes.
3. It is also not advisable to choose southern slopes for planting; the snow melts on them first, and during the period of spring frosts the plant is left without protection.
4. The strawberry planting site must be protected from strong cold winds so that in winter a layer of snow remains on it, protecting the plant from freezing.
5. Strawberries can be grown in the same area for no more than 4 years, then they must be transplanted to another area to protect them from viruses and fungal diseases.
6. Strawberries love well-lit areas, the berries ripen much more than in the shade, and they are larger and sweeter.
7. It is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture. You can’t fill it with water, but don’t let it dry out.
8. It is not advisable to plant the bushes too close to each other, otherwise the berries will be too small. The optimal distance between plants is about 50 cm.
9. Strawberries are not demanding on the presence of many minerals in the soil, so they can be planted in places where parsley, dill, spinach, legumes, bulbous flowers (tulips and hyacinths), carrots, corn, radishes and radishes previously grew.
10. It is not recommended to plant strawberries next to raspberries, hawthorn, rowan and rose hips.
11. It’s good if corn or legumes grow nearby, which supply the soil with nitrogen.

Selection of seedlings and preparation of planting material

1. On modern market exists great amount strawberry varieties. It is advisable to choose seedlings from them elite varieties, pre-healthed and sorted.
2. If you need to plant strawberries grown on your plot, then with the onset winter cold it must be dug up and transferred to the cellar for storage until spring.
3. Special attention you need to focus on the root system of the seedlings, it should be fibrous, with shoots of at least 8 cm, the root collar should be about 6 mm in diameter. Roots that are too long or damaged must be trimmed.
4. Boxes with seedlings should be placed under about 5 days before planting. open sky in the shade so that the seedlings get used to the conditions environment.

Strawberry planting dates for different regions

Strawberries planted at average ambient temperatures of about +15 - +25 degrees take root well and grow quickly in the future.

1. IN middle lane In Russia and the Moscow region, strawberries are planted in early spring - from late March to mid-April, but preference is given autumn plantings– from the beginning of August to the end of September.
2. IN southern regions It is recommended to plant strawberries in the autumn, from the beginning of September.
3. In northern conditions, strawberries are planted from late May to early June.

Correctly chosen timing of planting strawberries is the key to a good and high-quality harvest.

Selecting a planting site and preparing the soil

The most successful place for planting strawberries will be the southwestern part of the garden with a general slight slope, located on a small hill, not blown by winds, well lit by the sun, with groundwater not higher than 80 cm from the surface.

If the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to drain the soil for planting strawberries with broken bricks or pebbles. In such a place, the crop will ripen faster, the berries will be sweeter, and the bushes will grow better.

It is advisable to choose black earth soil for planting, with the addition of wood ash, with an acidity of 5.7-6.2. Peat fertile lands Not suitable for strawberries.

Before planting, carefully remove weeds, dig up the soil and apply fertilizer - per 1 square meter. m. 70 g of superphosphate and 30 g of humus, ammonium nitrate and potassium salt. The soil is loosened with a rake, lightly compacted and watered well.

How to plant?

Step-by-step instructions for growing strawberries in open ground using the standard method:

1. Strawberry seedlings are usually planted either in early spring or early autumn. Preferably in evening time or in cloudy weather.
2. In the prepared soil, dig holes at a distance of at least half a meter from each other.
3. Seedling bushes are placed in the holes so that the root collar remains at ground level and the roots are located vertically.
4. Carefully pour soil into the holes with seedlings and compact it lightly, and then water at the rate of 1 liter of water per bush.
5. After watering, cover the soil around the strawberry bushes with straw so that later emerging berries do not come into contact with the ground and are not subject to disease and rotting.
6. If cold weather sets in after planting, then the bushes should be covered with a film, which is removed with the arrival of stable heat.

Planting remontant strawberries

1. Sowing seeds remontant strawberries can be produced in April-May.
2. Before sowing, the bed is drained using broken bricks.
3. Place on top of the drainage soil mixture from garden soil, humus and river sand, taken in equal parts.
4. Before sowing, strawberry seeds are soaked in water or in a solution with the addition of a growth stimulant.
5. Water the prepared soil and make holes at a distance of 5 cm from each other.
6. The seeds are buried 0.5 cm from the soil surface.
7. The top of the planting is covered with glass or agrofilm.
8. After 2-3 leaves appear, pinching is done. Then pinch again when 5-6 leaves appear.

Classic ways to grow strawberries

1. One line method. This type of planting of strawberries in open ground is recommended in autumn and spring period. A distance of 70 cm is maintained between the rows of seedlings, and 15 cm between the seedlings themselves.
2. Two-line method. This type of planting is recommended for summer. The distance between rows should be 30 cm, and between seedlings - 20 cm.

Non-standard ways to plant strawberries

Strawberries under agrofibre

Often the area summer cottage is too small and you have to look for ways to grow strawberries in a small place:

1. Vertical method. Strawberries are planted in pots, in pipes, on a construction net, in old tires, laid vertically to save space.
2. In plastic bags. Prepared soil is poured into polyethylene bags, holes are made for seedlings and hung vertically or laid out horizontally.
3. Planting under agrofibre. Using this method, the harvest can be obtained much faster, but it does not save space in the garden. The beds are covered with special agrofibre and holes are made in it for planting seedlings. Agrofibre allows moisture to pass through, but does not allow sunlight, so weeds do not grow under it, which greatly simplifies caring for strawberries.
4. Planting hydroponically. This method is often used in greenhouses when growing strawberries in industrial scale. The bushes grow on a special substrate consisting of mineral wool, peat and coconut fiber.

Secrets of care after growing

Even if the strawberries were planted in in the right place, in compliance with all technologies, she needs proper care in order to get a good harvest.

Features of watering

First of all, it is necessary to regularly water the strawberries, preventing the soil from drying out. Watering is carried out daily after planting, and then once every 2 days with water at room temperature in the evening. In arid climates, it is better to install a sprinkler or drip irrigation system for convenience.

Fertilizer

1. During the budding period, potassium fertilizer is applied - potassium sulfate, potassium magnesia or potassium chloride according to the instructions.
2. To increase productivity, it is useful to spray the bushes boric acid in the proportion of 1 tsp. for 10 l. water.
3. In early spring, adult bushes are fertilized with nitroammophoska in a proportion of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 l. water.
4. During the flowering period, they are fed with potassium nitrate, chicken droppings or wood ash.
5. After the end of the harvest, nitroammophoska is added at the rate of 2 tbsp. l. for 10 l. water.
6. At the end of summer, for the best next harvest, strawberry bushes are fed with urea at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters. water.

Mulching

Mulching in the spring is necessary to protect flower stalks and berries from contact with the soil, and in the fall to protect them from frost.

Exist different ways mulching:

1. Organic mulch - compost, grass clippings, humus, manure. At the same time, the composition of the soil is enriched.
2. Inorganic mulch - small stone, granite chips, polyethylene.
3. Special mulch paper that does not contain harmful impurities, does not rot, and protects against fungi, weeds, heat and freezing.

Pest Control

Most main enemy strawberries are Chafer. One of its larvae is capable of destroying an entire square meter of planted strawberries. In addition to mechanical measures to prevent its occurrence - digging and weeding, experienced gardeners It is recommended to plant alkaloid lupine near strawberries, the beans of which are fatal to the larvae of the cockchafer.

Pruning and propagation

Strawberries can be propagated by seeds, seedlings from shoots, or dividing the bush. The uterine bushes produce mustaches. To propagate strawberries by layering, leave the strongest and longest tendrils on the mother bush and remove the rest.

2 weeks before planting, the rosettes formed on the mother bushes are cut off and planted in open ground. You can use the uterine bush to form mustaches and rosettes for no more than 3 years.

To protect against pests and diseases, excess leaves and tendrils are removed from overgrown bushes, leaving a growing point and stems with petioles up to 10 cm long. This procedure is carried out in dry weather early in the morning or evening using a sharp pruner.

In winter, strawberries are pruned more, leaving only young shoots.

Shelter for the winter

At harsh winters with temperatures below -20 degrees, strawberry bushes need shelter to protect their roots from freezing, especially in winters with little snow.

As soon as regular frosts begin, strawberry plantings are covered with spruce branches, hay, straw or special agrofibre. In the spring, at the first warming, the shelter is removed to avoid damping off. The soil is cleared of covering material and loosened.

Strawberry agricultural technology is quite complex, but when carried out necessary requirements regarding planting and caring for plants, you can get a high-quality harvest of this berry. Considering that a berry such as strawberry is liked by children and adults, both fresh and canned, some effort should be made to create these plants necessary conditions. Despite the fact that many gardeners make significant efforts to obtain a good strawberry harvest, mistakes and shortcomings can still cause the almost complete absence of large berries on the plot.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries has certain subtleties, since this crop is extremely sensitive not only to the composition of the soil, but also to the ambient temperature, level nutrients, as well as various diseases and pests, so it is very important to take into account all the features of this plant to obtain large quantity ripe berries. Considering that many people grow strawberries on their personal plot, you should understand the agrotechnical intricacies of obtaining a high-quality berry harvest in the open ground.

In order to get a high-quality strawberry harvest, you should pay attention to every little detail, since this crop is extremely demanding.

Best harvests strawberries can be obtained in areas where there are following types soil:

• black soil;
• dark gray forest soils;
• loamy soil;
• sandy soil.

If there is a different type of soil on the site, it should be adjusted. However, soil type is not the only indicator that is very important to consider, since strawberries are a plant very sensitive to acidity. The acidity of the soil for growing strawberries should be between 5 and 6.5 pH. It is important that groundwater lay at least 60 cm deep. The soil at a depth of 15-20 cm should not freeze to more than -8 °C.

Some people are extremely negligent in choosing a site, which ultimately leads to a significant reduction in plant productivity. The best place for planting there is a flat area or a plot of land with a slight slope to the southwest. The slope of the bed should not exceed 5°.

Beds located with a southern slope are not suitable for growing strawberries, since in this case the snow melts off them very quickly in early spring, and bare strawberry bushes can be damaged by frost, which will most negatively affect the condition of the plants and future harvests.

Areas located in lowlands are not suitable for growing strawberries, since cold air accumulates in them, which does not contribute to the formation of ovaries and ripening of berries, in addition, predisposes to the appearance of various diseases. You should not plant strawberries in areas that are heavily blown by winds, as in this case the layer of snow necessary for normal wintering of the tubers may be blown away.

The place for planting strawberry seedlings should be well lit, since shade not only contributes to slower ripening of the berries, but also leads to the appearance of a large number of pests and some diseases.

When choosing a site, you should pay attention to the fact that strawberries are extremely poorly accepted and grow in areas where crops such as peas, pumpkin, carrots, corn, onions, eggplants, tomatoes, cabbage, potatoes, beets and garlic previously grew. It is optimal if cereals, marigolds or leaf mustard grew in the area intended for planting strawberries. A properly selected plot can significantly increase the chances of a good harvest.

Preparing a site for planting strawberries

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries involves carefully preparing the soil for planting this crop. This should be done in advance. In soils with low nutrient content, it is necessary to add humus or humus in advance, which contains everything necessary to feed strawberries.

Agricultural technology for growing strawberries involves controlling soil acidity. If the acidity significantly exceeds the standards established for strawberries, it is better to adjust it in the fall by liming.

• sow thistle;
• pig;
• whine;
• loach;
• bodyag;
• wheatgrass;
• reed

If there are these on the site weeds When cultivating the soil, all roots should be removed to prevent grass from sprouting after the strawberry rosettes have rooted. In well-loosened soil, strawberry rosettes will quickly adapt and begin to develop.

When preparing the site, pay attention to its moisture content. The thing is that stagnation of water even in winter period may cause the strawberries to become soggy. In the presence of high humidity It is necessary to lay drainage on the site. If the humidity is not too high, it will be enough to make deep grooves up to 30 cm to excess water was diverted from the site. If there is too much water on the site, especially in spring, you should continue drainage pipes

to a depth of about 40 cm. After installing the drainage, carefully level the surface with a rake.

Before planting strawberry rosettes, you should determine the presence of various pests in the area being prepared. Such pests may include wireworms, strawberry beetles, strawberry nematodes and some other organisms.

If larvae of these pests are found during site preparation, the soil should be treated with ammonia water at the rate of 20 kg per 1 sq.m. Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil, including nitrogen, potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. Landing technology Optimal time August and early September are the best time to plant new rosettes of strawberries, as well as

early spring

, that is, the first days of May. When planting strawberries in the fall, it is very important that the strawberries have time to take root before the onset of cold weather, since already at an air temperature of -5 °C the root system stops growing and goes into hibernation mode. Strawberries should be planted in cloudy weather, as hot weather can cause serious stress to the plants during transplantation. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of seedlings. The best option Rosettes are considered to have necks of the root system that are about 6 mm. The root system should be fibrous, and the root shoots themselves should be at least 7 cm. The number of leaves of a good seedling should be about 3-5 cm, and it is very important that they are not elongated. In addition, a strong rosette must have an intact apical bud. If strawberry rosettes are taken from another area, the seedlings should be transported to the new planting site, tightly wrapping the rhizomes in

To plant strawberries, you should prepare the beds, and the distance between them should be about 60-70 cm. With this arrangement, the root system will be comfortable, and if necessary, it will be possible to carry out hilling and additional loosening of the soil.

Strawberry rosettes in the garden bed are planted every 20-30 cm. Holes for direct planting are made with a bayonet so as not to crush the soil. Before planting, the tuber roots should be trimmed a little and dipped in potassium permanganate.

When planting strawberry rosettes, you should not press them down too much with soil, since the roots require very loose soil for normal growth.

Next, the strawberries need to be watered with not too cold water. After planting, the ground above should be mulched with peat or dry grass, sawdust or straw, as this will allow the root system to quickly adapt to new conditions. Subtleties of care for a good harvest After rooting, strawberries require special care. It is a moisture-loving crop, but watering must be done correctly. During the first 2 weeks after planting, strawberries should be watered every day. It is best to water using a watering can so that a strong stream does not wash the roots out.

loose soil

. Further, when the plants get stronger, you can water them once every 2 days.

Any weeds can have a negative impact on crop yields, so it is very important to carry out weeding and loosening of row spacing in a timely manner. During the flowering period, plants can be fertilized with diluted urea. After the berries appear, you should continue to monitor the cleanliness of the bed and regularly water the plants. After budding and berry formation begin, you can fertilize with potassium nitrate.

Watering after the appearance of berries should be done in doses. It is necessary that the soil after watering is moist, but not flooded to the point of porridge. The thing is that in this case there is a high risk not only of the appearance of various diseases, but also of slugs that love a humid environment and at the same time feed on berries. As the berries ripen, they should be collected without allowing them to become overripe. Diseases and methods of combating them To obtain a high-quality strawberry harvest, you should pay close attention to the health of the plants, as they are susceptible to certain dangerous diseases. The most common strawberry diseases that can completely destroy the crop include: gray rot. To prevent the development of these diseases in the period before the first flowering, plants should be treated with drugs such as Horus or Fundazol.

In addition, the so-called strawberry mite, which infects the leaves of this plant and interferes with photosynthesis, can often completely destroy the strawberry crop. To eliminate this pest, plants should be treated with a product such as Aktelik. This product can be used throughout the entire period of strawberry growth and development, including during flowering and fruiting. Integrated pest management helps prevent a decrease in yield in an existing garden bed.

Growing strawberries and proper care (video)

How to prepare strawberries for winter

Considering that strawberries are perennial plant, and a rich harvest of berries can only be obtained 2 years after planting, it is very important to properly prepare the plants for winter. Around the end of August, strawberries should be generously fed with urea at the rate of 30 g of dry matter per 10 liters of water.

Around the end of September, all old leaves should be completely pruned. At this time, the area should be thoroughly cleared of weeds and other debris. Old leaves and weeds from the strawberry plot should be burned, as they can be infected with various organisms that are pathogenic for strawberries.

Next, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied, which are necessary for the normal start of growth and flowering of the plant in next year. At this time you can enter wood ash, which next year will allow the plants to move away faster. Strawberries overwinter well under a 20 cm layer of snow. If there is too little snow in winter, you can mulch the bed with strawberries well with sawdust or straw, and heat up a dense snow cap on top as the snow falls.

I am sure that a berry like strawberry does not need any special introduction. Everyone knows about it, everyone eats it, but not everyone can grow it. It is to grow, and not just grow on your plot and receive a meager harvest from year to year.

The method I propose for growing strawberries in open ground will allow you to make the most of limited area summer cottages and receive not only stable harvest berries, but also increase the period of fruiting in one season several times.

Preparing the beds.

Quite often there is a situation when there is simply nowhere to grow strawberries. That is, all plots of land are occupied by other crops, and the land that remains is generally not suitable for cultivating plants. And such an annoying circumstance can be turned into a huge fat plus, since you and I will be able to successfully grow strawberries bulk beds closed type. Simply put, our strawberries will grow in wooden boxes in open ground.

In order to make a bed for strawberries, the cheapest lumber in the form of old or unedged boards, and even slabs will do. The length of the bed can be arbitrary, the height is 30-35 cm, but the width is no more than 70 cm. In this case, the strawberries in the beds will be located in only one row. But why in one row?

Firstly, strawberries arranged in one row (and they need to be planted from north to south) will feel more free in open ground and receive the maximum amount of light and heat, which has a beneficial effect on yield.

Secondly, such a free planting area will allow strawberry bushes to receive maximum nutrition from the soil and not compete with other plants.

Thirdly, and this is obvious, such strawberries are much easier to care for, namely: watering, weeding the beds, and feeding.

And most importantly: this method of growing strawberries in open ground will allow you to renew them every two years. planting material without much hassle.

After all, it is known that in the third year of fruiting, the yield of strawberries sharply decreases and it needs to be constantly transplanted to a new place, but there may not be a new place. However, first things first. This means that we have knocked down the box for the garden bed, and all that remains is to fill it with soil.

Soil for strawberries.

But where can you get so much fertile soil? You can’t buy tons of land at the market or in a store. That's right. Therefore, an unlimited amount of light sandy loam, and this is the soil most suitable for growing strawberries in open ground, can be obtained independently from the endless and, most importantly, ownerless fields of our homeland. Speaking in simple language, we will use turf soil, after processing which it will turn into fertile soil.

For this purpose, in early spring, as soon as the ground thaws to a depth of 15-20 cm, we go to a previously identified clearing or forest edge and, using an ax or shovel, cut down layers of earth no more than 8 cm thick.

Next: we put the hard-earned turf into a pile 1 m wide and 70-80 cm high. In this case, each layer of the pile 20 cm high must be thoroughly shed with water, as well as the entire pile after laying it. Then we cover the pile with a transparent film and leave small gaps of 5-10 cm from the ground level so that oxygen gets into this soil mixture.

After about 15-20 days, biological processes called combustion will begin in the turf soil. Moreover, absolutely everything will burn: small plant roots and seeds weeds, insect larvae, as well as all kinds of spores, molds and viruses are the main diseases of this berry.

Thus, you will not only disinfect the soil for strawberries, but also make its structure optimal for growing strawberries in open ground.
That is, 2 months after the start of combustion, the film is removed from the pile and the entire soil mixture is sifted to remove small roots and vegetation residues, thereby making it light, airy, well-drained and enriched with oxygen.

Agricultural technology of cultivation and reproduction

The agricultural technology of growing strawberries in open ground itself is quite simple and consists of timely watering, fertilizing and weeding. Which is what we’ll talk about in more detail now.

Strawberries can be propagated in three ways:

1. dividing the uterine bush;
2. seeds;
3. seedlings (rosettes).

1. Propagation of strawberries by dividing the mother bush

The first method is the least preferable, since old bush strawberries, divided into parts, bear fruit poorly and are carriers of various diseases. It is only suitable in situations where for some reason you were unable to grow strawberry seedlings yourself or one or another variety is of high value. That is, you were simply given as a gift or you bought already mature uterine bushes in the spring, and in order not to waste time, they can be divided into parts and planted in the ground.

2. Growing strawberries from seeds

The second method is perhaps the best way to get varietal strawberries. Growing strawberry seedlings through seeds is as follows:

1. Soil preparation.
   The soil for sowing strawberry seeds should be light, well sifted and disinfected.
2. Sowing seeds.
   Strawberry seeds are sown in small boxes in late February early March. Moreover, they are sown in well-watered soil and lightly sprinkled with covering soil. However, you should know that the germination rate of strawberry seeds is quite low and does not exceed 50%.
3. Watering.
   Watering the sown seeds should not be done by drip irrigation, such as from a watering can, but by spraying water using a regular indoor spray bottle.
4. Picking seedlings.
   After several permanent leaves are formed on the sprouts, it is picked according to a 5x5 cm pattern, and a month later, another pick is carried out, planting bushes according to a 10x10 cm pattern.

Advice. To get a good harvest of strawberries grown from seeds, all flower stalks should be cut off in the first year of their growth. That is, it is better not to get a harvest in the first season and allow the strawberry bushes to take root well (otherwise they will freeze) and grow.

3. Propagation of strawberries by rosettes

And the third way is to propagate strawberries by rosettes. And here, if you want to get high-quality planting material, then the mother bushes, which are intended for propagation, also get rid of flower stalks. But getting well-developed rosettes is quite simple.
To do this, take no more than three tendrils from one mother bush and graft them onto the soil in no more than three places. Over time, when the first leaves of rosettes begin to form in the soil at the grafting sites, the tendrils are pinched, and the young bushes themselves are lightly sprinkled with earth around them. And the closer the rosettes are located to the mother bush, the better. In this case, the remaining tendrils of the strawberry bush should be removed all the time.

Due to the fact that your strawberries will grow in separate box beds, their propagation in open ground will be more efficient.
Look here: one bed - one row of strawberries, on the sides there are 30 cm of free soil, which is not trampled or compacted as in normal strawberry growing.
This means that you calmly spread the mustache around the edges, grow strawberry seedlings, and you only need to grow them every 2-3 years, uproot the old bushes and plant seedlings in their place. That is, there is no need to run around and look for a new place, since it is enough to lightly fertilize the soil on which the mother bushes grew.

The optimal time for planting rosettes is the first ten days of August. It is at this time that the growth processes of the above-ground parts of plants slow down, and they begin to intensively develop their root system, thus preparing for winter. If you plant strawberries a couple of weeks later, they will not take root well, and if you plant seedlings two weeks earlier, they will become very sick. So try to stick optimal timing planting strawberries.

And one more thing regarding the landing scheme

For example, telling you that planting strawberry bushes at such and such a distance from each other would be wrong. The fact is that each variety has its own planting scheme.
It is better to plant early varieties very close to each other, but late varieties, on the contrary, they are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm between the bushes.
Therefore, before cultivating a particular variety of strawberry, be sure to inquire about its characteristics and cultivation methods.

Care

Very often I have seen such a common method of growing strawberries in open ground as the use of roofing felt between the rows. Thus, some gardeners are trying to curb the excessive spread of mustaches across the beds, while claiming that roofing felt is excellent at retaining moisture. Personally, I would not recommend you to use this method, and here's why:

Firstly, although roofing felt retains moisture, it also does not let it go. Yes, strawberries are a moisture-loving plant, but an excess of moisture in the soil is no less dangerous than a lack of it.

Secondly, the soil under the roofing felt gradually becomes dead. That is, it is sucked in, compacted and turned into a heavy, dense mass from which the strawberries do not receive any nutrients.

Thirdly, black roofing felt is an excellent catalyst solar heat, and if in the spring it has a beneficial effect on warming up the soil, then in the summer, in extreme heat, the ground under it becomes very overheated and at one point the strawberries may simply lose their entire harvest. And sometimes even die.

Weeding

In order to get rid of excess mustaches, rosettes and weeds, it is enough to walk through the strawberry bed with a hoe 1-2 times a week and that’s it.
In addition, you have all the prerequisites for convenient soil cultivation: just one row of strawberries, convenient passages between the beds and soft, non-compacted soil.

Watering

Another point that I would like to highlight is watering strawberries. It so happens that at the moment the ovaries form, a drought sets in, and no matter how much you water the strawberries from a watering can, there is no use. So I suggest you do a simple system drip irrigation strawberries, which will save you from hard work and crop failure.

To do this, you will need a container at the rate of 3 liters of water per 1 m² of bed per day, and a hose of the appropriate length. We attach the hose to the container, be sure to install a faucet, and stretch the hose over all the strawberry beds.
Moreover, the hose should lie close to the root system mother bushes.
Next, in the area where the hose comes into contact with the ground, using a thin awl, we make holes in it at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and... AND drip system Watering the strawberries is ready. Just don't forget to fill the container with water (just kidding).

We increase the period of fruiting

In order to receive fresh berries strawberries from mid-May to the end of July, you need to take advantage of the difference in the ripening periods of certain varieties. Simply put, in your strawberry beds you should cultivate early, mid and late varieties of strawberries. And here the box beds can serve as temporary greenhouses.

That is, we plant early varieties of strawberries in 2-3 beds and in the spring, as soon as the snow melts, we install metal arcs on them and cover them with film. And if your strawberries bloom before the first bees arrive, you'll have to pollinate them yourself.
Pollination is done using a wide soft brush, which is gently brushed over the strawberry inflorescences 2-3 times a day.

Covering strawberries for the winter

Just like in the example with roofing felt, I very often observe the following picture: many gardeners cover strawberries for the winter with outright rubbish, in the form old film, cardboard, rags and even slate. At the same time, the extremely useful and most suitable covering material for these purposes is, as usual, right under our feet - fallen leaves.

Fallen leaves, unlike old film or even straw, perfectly protect strawberries from severe frosts in winter and unexpected thaws in early spring and autumn, when they can simply die. You already know very well where to look for fallen leaves, but few people probably know how to collect them correctly.
It is better to collect fallen leaves in dry weather and not just rake them into piles, but grab 1-2 cm of fertile forest humus, which is an excellent fertilizer for all types of plants.

After the leaves are collected, you can cover the strawberry beds with them, creating a sort of mound 50-60 cm high above each row of strawberries. Just don’t forget to press it down with something for a while, otherwise strong gusts of wind can nullify all your efforts. In the spring, when you remove this unusual covering material for strawberries, I advise you not to throw out the leaves, but to rake them between the rows. And over time, mulching them into the soil, you will thereby fertilize it.

Believe me, growing strawberries together is much easier than doing it alone.

In this article we will look at the entire cultivation process (agricultural technology), including planting, care and harvesting, estimate the costs and potential profits, and tell you how to grow strawberries correctly.

The first step is to decide on the area of ​​the plot on which you plan to plant strawberries, and select the optimal land if you don’t own the plot.

The next step is to choose a variety of remontant strawberries - each of them has its own specific features, so you need to approach this matter responsibly.

Then you need to study the method and technology of growing strawberries, taking into account the specific requirements of the variety. And only after this should you begin disembarking.

Plot for growing strawberries

Of course, if you own the land, look for another plot makes a lot of sense does not have. But if there is no plot and you need to rent it, first of all you should pay attention to plots with a flat surface or a slight slope to the southwest.

At the same time, it is worth remembering, What the best soil To plant strawberries, it is black soil with a small addition of ash. The worst - peat soil. For beginning entrepreneurs, 100 square meters will be enough.

Growing strawberry seedlings

When purchasing seedlings, you can often encounter a situation where the declared variety does not correspond to the actual variety.

You can protect yourself from such misunderstandings either by purchasing seedlings in large farms with a good reputation, or grow it at home from seeds.

Planting strawberry seedlings

It is not very difficult to grow strawberries from seeds at home. Seeds are planted in mid-winter. First, you should pour a drainage layer on the bottom of the seedling box - 2 centimeters of expanded clay or fine gravel.

Then you need to cover the drainage with a layer of soil 12-15 centimeters high with narrow beds about 5 millimeters deep. Before planting the seeds, these “beds” need to be watered abundantly; after planting, the seeds should be covered on top with a centimeter layer of soil.

Care and planting in the ground

Caring for strawberry seedlings requires great care. The soil should always be slightly moist, and the room where the seedlings are grown should be warm. When the first shoots appear (about 3 weeks after planting), the box with seedlings should be provided with good lighting.

Temperature at this stage should be between 20-25 degrees Celsius. When the first true leaves appear, the seedlings are transplanted into pots. You can also use another box, planting the seedlings so that there is a distance of two to three centimeters between the plants.

Seedlings are planted in open ground approximately three to four months after planting - in late spring or early summer. When planting, you should shorten the roots so that their length does not exceed ten centimeters.

Technology for growing strawberries in open ground

How to plant strawberries correctly? When to plant? It is strongly recommended that grown seedlings be planted in the ground in the evening, which will allow the plants to acclimatize and avoid thermal shock, as a result of which the seedlings may die.

In the garden bed, the seedlings should not be immersed deeply into the soil, but so that the heart of the bush is in the soil. After planting, the soil should be watered abundantly.

Speed ​​up the growing process strawberries will help nitrogen and complex fertilizers– at the beginning of growth they are used in large quantities.

When the first ovary appears, it is necessary to cover the ground under the plants with sawdust or straw, which will prevent rotting of the falling berries.

How to increase the size of the berries and renew the plant

Regardless of the chosen variety, the size of strawberries can be increased by cutting off the “whiskers” during the entire flowering and fruiting period.

If you need to renew the plant, which is done on average once every three years, by the end of fruiting you should leave only one “whisker” growing on the mother plant. Over the summer it will form new bush, due to which the plant is renewed.

Strawberry care

Remontant strawberries generally love moisture, and abundant watering promotes the best possible growth of strawberries.

Water strawberries on initial stage should be done daily; in the future, watering can be reduced to once or twice a week, depending on climatic conditions.

It's also worth remembering that this berry is quite picky about the soil, so the area should be regularly cleared of weeds and treated for pests.

Wintering strawberries

In order not to fully plant strawberries every year, you should carefully prepare the plants for wintering.

To do this, you need to remove all weeds and cover the ground with branches, wood chips, sawdust and various plant debris. The bushes themselves should be covered with straw for the winter.

The best varieties

• Temptation: the variety is distinguished by large berries (about 30 grams), the taste has a muscat tint, main feature– this variety can be grown all year round;
• Queen Elizabeth 2: the berries are very large (from 45 to 100 grams), but when growing strawberries of this variety, you should take into account that the plant should be renewed not once every three years, but annually, otherwise the berries will become smaller;
• Diamond: the relatively small size of the berries (from 20 grams) is compensated high stability this variety is susceptible to pests and various diseases;
• Albion: the variety is distinguished by its small berry size (from 25 grams), but has the best transportability, which makes it quite interesting for commercial use. In addition, it is optimal for arid climates;
• Moscow Delicacy: medium-sized berries (15-35 grams), taste with notes of cherries, this variety bears fruit right up to frost, is resistant to frost and various diseases;
• Evie 2: not very large berries (on average about 20 grams), with a bright taste, abundant fruiting - up to 5.5 kilograms of berries per square meter.

Costs and profits

Costs will include renting a plot (4-20 thousand rubles per month depending on the region), renting a room for growing seedlings (5-10 thousand rubles per month), seeds and tools (up to 10 thousand rubles).

On average, the strawberry harvest is about 30-40 kilograms per year per square meter. Net profit from 100 square meters will be 450-550 thousand rudders per year.

As you can see, at home - which, however, requires constant monitoring, so it can only be recommended to extremely disciplined people.