Yellow leaves on an orchid, what to do. Why do the leaves of the home phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow and what to do?

Since the first description of the orchid as a species, it has become an incredibly sought-after decoration botanical gardens, greenhouses and home flower beds. Despite their external fragility and tenderness, orchids are quite hardy, and thanks to breeding research, it was possible to develop new varieties adapted to our conditions and it has become easier to grow them at home.

Household orchids are epiphytes - plants that have a root system open type, covered with velamen. Through the porous layer, orchids absorb moisture from environment and soils, naturally grow on trees or rocky gorges.

Modern, “domesticated” species can be divided into groups according to the complexity of care:

• For beginner flower growers. These are the most adapted plants: Dendrobium, Phalaenopsis, Epidendrum.
• For advanced gardeners. These are: Brassia, Coelogina, Dendrobium.
• For professional orchid breeders: Cattleya, Miltonia, etc.

According to the type of growth, orchids are sympodial and monopodial. Sympodial plants have horizontally growing shoots united in a rhizome. Peduncles emerge from the shoots, usually one or two (depending on the species of the orchid).

In some sympodial plants, shoots appear with leaves from which flower stalks emerge.

At the base of the shoots there are thickenings - bulbs, which serve to accumulate water and useful substances for future shoots. But the structure of the bulbs differs from the classic ones flower bulbs, therefore it would be more correct to call them “pseudobulbs”.

The monopodial type includes Ascocenda, Vanda and Phalnopsis orchids. The plant develops from one main shoot, with alternate growth of leaves. Phalaenopsis have thick shoots similar to bamboo, and they also serve for reserve accumulation of moisture and nutrients.

Leaves turn yellow - reasons: improper care

Stressful conditions affect the appearance of the plant - the leaves turn yellow, fall off, become stained, and the flower itself withers. Negative changes are observed with a sharp change in microclimate, low humidity, abundant watering, rhizome injury or pest damage.

Yellowing of the lower leaves may be due to aging processes. The death of leaves occurs within 2-3 months and affects only the lower tiers. Complete yellowing and seasonal loss of leaves is observed only in dendrobium orchids.

Reasons for yellowing of orchid leaves:

• Natural aging of the leaf. Yellowing of one or two lower leaves with normal coloring is typical for phalaenopsis and paphiopedilum orchids.
• Flaw . The Phalaenopsis orchid is a light-loving species. With a lack of light, the plant can grow for 1-2 years, after which it begins to fade.
• Yellowing of leaves after sunburn. If the flower stood on the south or west side in sunny weather, then yellowed areas appear on the leaves. It is enough to move the orchid to a less illuminated place where the burnt leaf or part of it will dry out.
• Insufficient watering of the orchid. If there is a lack of moisture, the leaves of the flower wrinkle and fall off, but before you start watering, the condition of the roots is assessed - this is not always the reason for the leaves to wither in a dry substrate. Normally, the color of the roots is light green, with a slight pearlescent tint; a change in color indicates disease - they can be caused by harmful insects or fungal infections, rot. If a week after watering the orchid’s condition has not improved, it is recommended to re-examine it.
• Rare but plentiful watering. The substrate should not be overdried or flooded with water. Overmoistening of the roots leads to the development of diseases and yellowing of the leaves, and wilting. Signs of excess moisture in a pot: not only the lower leaves change color; to the touch the leaf becomes less dense and moist, which indicates rotting; appearance dark spots on yellowed leaves; darkening of the roots or the appearance of black spots on them; changes in the stem of the plant - darkening and the appearance of plaque. Visually, it seems that the plant is not fixed in the ground.
• Accelerating flower growth using fertilizers and stimulants. When growing orchids in greenhouses, increased doses of fertilizing are used to accelerate flower growth. After a year or two, the flower becomes exhausted: the growth of new leaves stops, and the old ones begin to turn yellow and fall off. When transplanted into a new soil mixture, the situation does not change, but it is possible to restore the flower. The pot with the plant is transferred to a warm and well-lit place, after which fertilizing is carried out according to the scheme once every 14 days. For the first feeding, use highly diluted regular orchid fertilizer (dilute to 50% concentration). Later, nitrogen fertilizer is used to grow leaves and strengthen them.

Orchid roots are sensitive to potassium and phosphorus based solutions - with a high concentration of the solution, the risk of burns to the root system of the flower increases. In case of overdose, the plant is washed well under warm water. running water, fertilizing should be repeated no earlier than after a month and a half.

In order for the Phalaenopsis orchid to please with its well-groomed appearance and lush flowering, it is necessary to create comfortable conditions for the flower:

1. Place for a potty. The plant is suitable protected from direct sunlight a place with light shade. This could be a window sill on the western, northeastern or eastern side of the house, or small table near the window. Phalaenopsis does not belong to the light-loving orchids and with prolonged contact with sun rays light brown or brownish burns form on the leaves.
2. Temperature regime. If you keep the plant in a shaded place at a temperature of 18-25 C, the flowering time increases. Maximum permissible temperature– 35 C, with a prolonged increase temperature regime leaf density decreases and flowering stops. For normal growth optimal temperature fluctuates between 15-25 C.
3. Humidity percentage. A comfortable air humidity value for phalaenopsis is within 30-40%. An increased value with poor ventilation creates conditions for the development of rot on the root system and leaves, and low humidity affects the tone of the orchid and flowering.
4. . Watering Phalaenopsis is carried out when the substrate is completely dry, but the orchid cannot be kept in aggressive dry conditions. Insufficient hydration root system the plants brighten. Normally, the color of the roots of an orchid is bright green, and droplets of condensation are visible on the walls of the pot (if it is transparent). It is best to water the orchid by immersing it in water or pouring it over the substrate. It is not advisable to water the leaves - if the water does not High Quality, then spots form on their surface. Once a month, it is recommended to wash the surface of the leaves under running water and then wipe them.
5. Fertilizer. It is most convenient to fertilize an orchid when watering, strictly observing the proportions of bait. With excessive and frequent feeding, cracks appear on the leaves.
6. Bloom. To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to keep Phalaenopsis cool and water it less often; it will be enough to spray the substrate with a spray bottle. To extend flowering up to six months, it is enough to adhere to the temperature regime, observe optimal humidity and diffuse lighting. At the end of the flowering period, the peduncle is usually trimmed.
7. Root and leaf care. When the aerial part of the root dies, it is removed. Healthy lower leaves Once every 20-30 days, clean under running water and wipe.
8. . There is no need to replant a recently purchased orchid; it is better to do this after flowering. The substrate is replaced every three years, when it cakes and loses some nutritional properties. Part soil mixture bark is included, at low humidity moss is added to the mixture - it absorbs and retains moisture. Before transplanting, the bark is soaked for 2 days in clean water, after which crushed is added to it. The mixture ready for transplanting can be used during the day.

Leaves turn yellow - causes: diseases

Yellowing of leaves occurs when the root system is damaged by bacteria and fungi. In severe cases, the entire plant becomes infected and dies:

• The causative agent of black rot is a fungus. It spreads quickly and is easily transmitted to healthy orchids.
• With root rot, the roots of the plant are the first to be affected, after which the fungal infection covers the tuberidia and leaves. Appears in the form of black dense spots.
• The causative agents of brown rot are Erwinia and Pseudomonas bacteria. Young flowers are often affected; if the infection covers the growing point and stems, the orchid dies. Appears as brown, watery areas.
• The cause of rust, fusarium, and gray rot is a fungus. First, the leaves turn yellow, then soften and become covered with rot containing spores.
• Among viral diseases, Phalaenopsis are more often affected by Cymbidium mosaic, ring virus, and Cattleya mosaic.

What to do, how to cure an orchid?

To cure an orchid from a viral, bacterial or fungal disease the cause and sources of infection are being clarified. Further treatment tactics are aimed at destroying the diseased plant (if the root, growing point, rhizome is affected) or removing the affected leaves at an early stage of infection.

For infections caused by fungi, treatment with: “Fundazol” 0.2%, “Topsin-M” 0.2% and other drugs is indicated for a period of at least 10 days. For the purpose of prevention, the treatment is repeated after 30 days.

Leaves turn yellow - reasons: pests

Prevent appearance harmful insects much easier than treating the affected plant. It is recommended to check each new plant for the presence of insects - to do this, the top of the pot is wrapped in polyethylene and the flower is immersed in water. Scale insects or nematodes can be identified by examining the substrate.

More information can be found in the video:

If the orchid leaves suddenly turn pale, but remain dense and not dehydrated, and the roots of the flower are in good condition, then there may be a lack of nutrition. It is also indicated by a slowdown in plant growth. To solve this problem, you should feed with fertilizers specially designed for this purpose, alternating foliar and root feeding.

Remember that the yellowness of the leaves of a plant is directly related to the condition of its roots, as well as to waterlogging or overdrying of the substrate.

If an orchid is affected by a fungal infection, its roots begin to rot, and fungal spores clog the conducting vessels of the flower and quickly spread throughout it. To save the plant, it is necessary to urgently remove the affected roots and leaves, preparing the orchid for replanting in a clean substrate. After transplantation, the flower must be treated with fungicidal preparations such as Vitaros, Fitolavin or Fundazol. Orchid with soft leaves, on which wet spots have appeared, its roots also need to be replanted.

Substrate care

When the lower leaves of an orchid turn yellow and dehydrate, the roots of which remain healthy, the reason lies in the overdrying of the substrate. Some owners regularly water and spray the plant, but the water flows out onto the tray, while the bark remains dry. The plant begins to take water from old leaves, which, in turn, turn yellow. You can normalize watering an orchid by watering it using the immersion method.

An orchid should not be watered with hard water, as it salts the substrate and provokes the development of chlorosis, which is expressed in a yellow-green color.

When an orchid with yellowed leaves blooms, its bark can be rid of excess salts using distilled water. You need to transplant the plant into a fresh substrate and start feeding the leaves with foliar fertilizers. Great solution in this case, such liquid chelate fertilizers as “Bona Forte” or “Pokon” will become available.

Also, the yellowness of orchid leaves can be affected by an excess of sunlight, which has a detrimental effect on its photosynthesis. In this case, the plant must be removed from the window or hidden in a small shade. Another reason for yellowing is the age of the flower. Over time, the oldest lower leaves of the orchid begin to turn yellow, but this process, unfortunately, is inevitable. Dead leaves must be carefully removed.

Phalaenopsis is one of the most picky varieties of orchids, The standard is relatively easy to care for compared to other types.

Its natural habitat is rainforests and the mountains of South Asia and Northern Australia. It is here that you can find this flower in its natural environment and admire it almost year-round flowering from the heart.

At home, wild trunks will not take root; it is impossible to create a tropical microclimate for the plant while observing all the necessary nuances.

Hybrid plants that were specially created for our latitudes are grown in the dwellings. In order for the plant to grow normally, develop and delight with flowering as often as possible, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules care

If something has gone wrong, the flower begins to signal about it - mainly changes appear in the foliage. More often Phalaenopsis reacts to any discrepancies in care by turning yellow.

The leaves may turn yellow due to any error in care.

Advice! Don't panic if the lower leaves turn yellow. If one of them turns yellow from below the ground, this may be natural process updates. A new one will grow in its place very soon.

In addition, the leaves lose their elasticity, become limp and wrinkled.

Causes

Yellowing leaves should force you to find the cause of this phenomenon. There may be several of them:

• excess moisture with abundant watering - the most common reason. The phalaenopsis orchid is an epiphyte; it receives nutrients through its roots from the air, and not from earthen coma like other indoor plants. If you water too much, the water gets in the way normal circulation air, which is extremely necessary for phalaenopsis. This entails rotting of the roots, which fail to provide the leaves with normal nutrition, as a result of which they change color and become lethargic;
• direct sunlight negatively affect the leaves, they simply burn them, leaving behind shapeless yellow spots;
• growth point damage, or rather, its decay. This also happens due to an incorrectly selected watering schedule;
• natural causes when the leaf has outlived its usefulness. In this case, the leaves at the base turn yellow first.

Sunburn.

Interesting! U different varieties Phalaenopsis leaves live differently, from 1 to 3 years.

You can learn more about the causes of yellowing leaves from.

Elimination methods

If the leaves have already turned yellow, then it is unlikely that they will be restored, but it is simply necessary to prevent the spread of this phenomenon. Depending on the cause of occurrence, control methods are selected:

• with abundant watering it is necessary to ensure that the substrate dries, but before that, remove the stem from the pot and thoroughly examine the rhizome. Remove all rotten and dried roots, and be sure to disinfect the cuts. It is better to replant the plant in a fresh substrate and strictly monitor watering;
• if the leaves have turned yellow due to burns, then you should immediately change the location of the flower. It is moved to a more shaded window sill. It is better to cut off the damaged leaf; the area must be treated with crushed coal or cinnamon;
• with a yellowed growth point, Most likely, it will not be possible to save the plant, since the plant is a monopodial plant. But do not rush to throw away the stem; a baby may appear on the old stem;
• With natural death there is nothing to be done, it is a natural process.

When overwatering, all rotten roots must be removed.

You can read more about the fight against yellowing of leaves in.

Useful videos

From this video you will learn why orchid leaves turn yellow:

This video shows methods to combat yellowing:

The video below shows how to trim an orchid from rotten roots:

You will learn how to save a phalaenopsis without a growing point from the following video:

Conclusion

It is worthwhile to carefully care for phalaenopsis, then you will be able to avoid many problems in resuscitating the plant.

It is considered the most unpretentious, not requiring excessive care from the gardener. However, the specifics of keeping orchids dictate their own conditions for it, so neglect of certain requirements often leads to various diseases and death of the plant.

In most cases, emerging problems with phalaenopsis are indicated by leaves that begin to turn yellow and wither. And if you don’t help the orchid in time, you can lose your green pet.

Fortunately, the reasons causing change leaf coloring is not so much and even for a novice gardener it is easy to prevent them.

Excess moisture

Excessive flooding is one of the most common causes of yellow leaves this orchid. Unlike common houseplants, phalaenopsis does not need soil; all its roots are aerial. The bark, or some other substrate in which the orchid is planted, is intended only to fix the plant in vertical position. The roots themselves need a constant influx fresh air, and the layer of water that forms on them with regular and excessive watering prevents the access of oxygen, as a result of which the roots begin to rot and cease to fulfill their main task - feeding the leaves. As a result, the latter begin to turn yellow and die. At the same time, the leaves, which still retain their greenness, lose turgor and become soft and drooping. IN advanced cases the rotting process spreads to the stem, causing it to turn black and the plant dies.

Finding the right watering schedule to avoid root rot is not that difficult. As a rule, phalaenopsis are grown in transparent pots filled with bark coniferous trees. In such a container there are no problems with monitoring the condition of the roots and bark. There are several signs that indicate sufficient humidity inside the pot:

Condensation is visible on the walls of the pot;
- the bark is dark, distinctly moist;
- roots pressed against the wall of the pot are green;
- The pot itself is quite heavy in weight.

In all the described cases, watering the orchid is not required. But, in order not to be mistaken, it is recommended for comparison to remember what the roots and bark look like in a dry state.

If the rotting process is already in full swing, blackened roots are visible through the transparent walls of the pot, and the leaves turn yellow (sometimes black spots also appear on them), then the orchid must be removed from landing tank, thoroughly clean the substrate and trim off all rotten roots and diseased leaves. After this, you can try to revive the plant. In mild cases, it is enough for phalaenopsis to be transplanted into fresh substrate. Watering the transplanted plant is limited, content with increasing the local humidity around its leaves, for which the base of the orchid is covered with damp sphagnum moss, preventing it from drying out completely with regular spraying.

In severe cases, when most of the roots have died, but there are still green leaves, during resuscitation you cannot do without a mini-greenhouse. And it is better not to plant the plant in a substrate, as it will interfere with monitoring the process of root restoration. The orchid is secured above sphagnum moss, coconut fiber or pine bark (which serve as a kind of substrate), covered with a transparent cap and placed in a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. The substrate is regularly sprayed, and the orchid leaves are wiped with a damp sponge.

Excess light

Phalaenopsis – shade-loving plant, feeling comfortable even at some distance from the window. It does not tolerate bright light, especially direct sunlight, which causes leaf burns. Three degrees of damage can be distinguished sheet plate:

When there is excess illumination, a thin layer appears on several sheet plates at once. yellow border;
- with weak exposure to the sun, peculiar “potholes” are formed on the leaf - areas of merging, as if depressed, yellowish spots;
- prolonged exposure to the sun causes the appearance of large shapeless yellow burn spots, in especially severe cases bordering on brown filmy bald spots of completely burned tissue.

If the defeat is local character, then it is enough to simply move the orchid to a more suitable place for it or shade it. The damaged leaf can be cut off or you can wait until the phalaenopsis drops it itself. If the plant is exposed to the sun for a long time and most of the leaves turn yellow, you should pay attention to the condition of the stem and roots. If they are elastic and green, then there is a chance to save the orchid by moving it into the shade and increasing local humidity (without watering). With dried roots and yellowed stems, there is no chance to revive the plant.

Damage to the growing point

Phalaenopsis is an orchid with a monopodial growth pattern, that is, it has a single unbranched, constantly growing stem. If the growing point (the top of this stem) is damaged, the orchid may die. This process begins with yellowing of the upper leaves and then spreads down the stem to the base. But, as a rule, this is the scenario for phalaenopsis very rare and is associated not with mechanical damage to the top of the plant, but with its decay. It is more likely that the growth of the main stem will freeze with further appearance basal children. It is to this that the orchid later transfers its development.

Natural causes

For phalaenopsis, the annual loss of one of the lowest leaves is the norm. This is a natural process associated with life cycle. It begins with yellowing of the leaf blade, which gradually becomes bright yellow, then wrinkles, turns brown and falls off.

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biologist, collector indoor plants, website editor (indoor plants section)

Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis) is the most common in indoor growing orchid. About 60 are known natural species as part of this genus, among which the majority are epiphytic, growing on trees, although there are also lithophytic, growing on the ground. However, the most common now are numerous hybrid forms obtained by interspecific crossing. Despite the undemanding nature and ease of cultivation in room conditions, which have led to the incredible popularity of these orchids, we receive many questions regarding the intricacies of caring for phalaenopsis. We bring to your attention an overview of the most relevant of them.

Question: When is it time to replant phalaenopsis?

Answer: The question is often asked: is it necessary to replant phalaenopsis immediately after purchase? To a healthy plant replanting will only be needed after two or three years, when the old substrate (bark) has collapsed. In this case, the transplant should be done with maximum replacement of the old bark with a new one.

It’s another matter if you purchased phalaenopsis at a discount. Then you need to carefully examine the roots. If there is cause for concern, then a transplant is necessary, replacing the substrate and removing diseased roots.

Question: What substrate is suitable for phalaenopsis?

Answer: Only bark, okay upper layer cover the roots with sphagnum. Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic plant. In nature, it lives on tree trunks, while its roots are not immersed in the substrate, but are in a free state. The roots are wetted only by precipitation, drying out regularly. Phalaenopsis receives nutrition through rainwater, in which, as they flow down the leaves, they dissolve nutrients(most often bird droppings). A substrate in the form of bark is needed only to give the phalaenopsis a vertical, stable position; the phalaenopsis will receive nutrients not from the substrate, but from the solution with which you will water the orchid. The bark allows air to flow freely to the roots and allows them to dry out regularly, which is very important.

Often companies that produce plant substrates add other components to the orchid substrate. But in the orchid family there are epiphytic species, semi-epiphytic species, and species living on the ground. And each of them will require its own substrate recipe.

Question: Which pot to choose for phalaenopsis?

Answer: A pot for phalaenopsis should be

transparent.
Phalaenopsis roots, like leaves, participate in the process of photosynthesis, i.e. help the plant synthesize organic substances for growth.

• have drainage holes for easy drainage of water.
  Root wetting leads to fatal consequences for phalaenopsis.

match in size.
If you are replanting a healthy, overgrown plant, then you need to take the pot a little larger diameter. If diseased roots were removed during transplantation, then most likely bigger pot will not need. There is no point in planting phalaenopsis in a pot to grow; increasing the volume of the substrate will not have a positive effect on either the size of the flowers or the frequency of flowering.

Question: How to replant phalaenopsis?

Answer: When transplanting phalaenopsis, you must be extremely careful and try to damage the roots as little as possible. We need to make sure that the transplant is really necessary. Prepare boiled and cooled bark in advance, a pot if you need a different one, scissors for trimming diseased roots, sulfur for dusting (if necessary). Before transplanting, healthy phalaenopsis should be watered, since raw roots are more flexible. However, if it becomes necessary to trim damaged roots, it is better to replant phalaenopsis with dry roots.

Carefully remove the phalaenopsis from the pot, shake the old substrate as much as possible (it is better to remove the old bark completely, it is more moisture-absorbing, and the substrate should dry evenly), if the roots are stuck to a piece of bark, leave it, do not tear it off. Inspect the roots, cut out the bad ones, sprinkle the cut areas with sulfur or crushed coal. Place some bark at the bottom of the pot. No drainage needed. The bark fraction should not be large, but not small, approximately 1.5x2 cm.

Place the roots of the phalaenopsis in the pot, begin to gradually add fresh substrate. Leave the roots that do not fit in the pot free, as they easily rot if injured. These protruding roots must be soaked when watering. The top of the pot can be covered with sphagnum, but the sphagnum should not be constantly wet. After transplanting, it is better to postpone watering for 7-10 days, during which time the injured roots will dry out.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves wrinkle and wither, what is the problem?

Answer: If you notice that the leaves of the phalaenopsis have begun to wither and wrinkle, this means that there is a problem with the roots; they have stopped growing. in full supply water to leaves. If this happened due to the substrate drying out for a long time, then you need to urgently wet the roots by immersing them in water for 10 minutes and spraying the leaves, this will help restore turgor faster. If watering does not help, this means that all the roots or most of them have died from systematic waterlogging or too long drying. Then you will need resuscitation:

Remove the plant from the pot, even though it is flowering, shake the bark and inspect the roots. All living roots after soaking should acquire green color, become full and hard. If the roots remain gray or brown, they are dead and need to be cut off. Take scissors or pruning shears, carefully cut off the diseased roots, powder the cut areas with sulfur or charcoal. If you had to cut off all the roots or most of them, then powder the bottom of the phalaenopsis (immediately under the leaves) with Kornevin, this substance will stimulate the phalaenopsis to quickly form new roots, wrap this place in damp sphagnum and place it in a pot, spray the leaves. After this, you need to place the plant in a greenhouse. Any container of suitable size that has a transparent, closing top can serve as a greenhouse. This could be an unused aquarium, closed at the top plastic film, cut-off 5-liter water bottle, basin, etc. A plant placed in a greenhouse will not lose moisture. The greenhouse must be ventilated every two days, and the leaves must be sprayed occasionally.

It will have a good effect foliar feeding once every 2 weeks. To do this, you need to dilute a specialized fertilizer for orchids in a concentration 10 times less than for root feeding, and spray the resulting solution. It is necessary to ensure that the sphagnum moss is constantly moist (not very damp). The greenhouse should stand in a warm, bright place, since the leaves must photosynthesize and feed the plant. New roots will appear in a month or two. When they grow, the phalaenopsis is transplanted into the bark and gradually accustomed to the conditions of the room - usually no earlier than six months. You will have to wait about a year for a full-fledged copy.

Question: Spots have appeared on the leaves of phalaenopsis, what should I do?

Answer: It should be immediately noted that some varieties of phalaenopsis are variegated. Such spots have no relief (convexity, concavity) and are more or less evenly distributed over the leaf and throughout the plant.

But if suddenly a spot that is not typical for the plant appears on the leaf, this means that a problem has arisen. A black-brown spot on a phalaenopsis leaf may occur due to direct burn sun rays. Such a spot is usually several centimeters in diameter; after moving the plant into the shade, it does not increase in size and dries quickly. Helpful measures: remove phalaenopsis from direct sun, then follow the usual care. Over time, such a stain may fade a little, decrease in size, and, as a rule, does not need treatment. Sometimes a sunburn spot will be light and dry. Burns on the leaves may also appear after spraying the plant in the sun.

But there are spots of a different nature. They appear due to non-compliance with the temperature regime and the regime of watering and spraying. In damp, cool conditions and with reduced ventilation fungal and bacterial rot . If the room temperature is below +18 degrees, then it is better to cancel spraying. When watering or bathing a plant, you should try to ensure that the leaves have time to dry before nightfall. Do not allow moisture to get to the growing point (in the middle top sheet), this can cause rot in the middle. Rotting spots usually gradually increase in diameter, are black in color, and become wet. Help - changing the conditions of maintenance and care, moving the plant to a brighter, warmer and ventilated room, removing the affected area of ​​the leaf, treating with fungicides and bactericides (Sulfur, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Trichopolum). After processing a diseased plant, the tool must be disinfected; do not place the affected phalaenopsis close to other plants to avoid transmission of infection. Usually several treatments are required. The plant can again be considered healthy if the affected area does not enlarge and no new spots appear.

Like many other plants, phalaenopsis is susceptible to attack by various sucking insects, whose pricks turn into wounds. This is first of all , spider mite and scale insects, may also occur aphid, mealybug, thrips. The bite sites first acquire a yellowish color, then may become dark. These spots are small in diameter, scattered unevenly across the leaves, and wounds can be seen at the bite sites. Thrips lay their eggs on the underside of the leaf; brown dots and dashes appear on the upper side, which over time become whitish. Helpful measures - identify the pest and treat with an acaricide - a preparation against ticks (Neoron, Agravertin, Fitoverm) or an insecticide - against insects (Aktara, Aktellik, Fitoverm), this will require repeated treatments.

Question: How to make phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can grow on a north window and under fluorescent lamp, but often refuses to bloom. The best stimulus for flowering will be the rays of the sun. It is optimal to place it on an eastern or western windowsill, allowing the plant to receive some sunlight. Phalaenopsis can be given a short period of rest in winter, when its length is reduced. daylight hours, move to a room with a night temperature of +15...+18 degrees, reduce watering. Typically, a daily temperature fluctuation of several degrees is sufficient for phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis should be fed with special fertilizers for orchids. In the case of active growth of green mass and lack of flowering, it is necessary to temporarily abandon fertilizing.

Question: What to do with the peduncle after flowering, how to care for phalaenopsis after flowering?

Answer: There are no changes in care after flowering. It is not recommended to cut the flower arrow until it has dried. But even if you cut green arrow, the plant itself will not be harmed.

When the flower arrow begins to dry, it is cut off below the yellowing; re-blooming is possible from the remaining buds. But often the flower arrow is disposable, wait on it 100% re-blooming not worth it. If the arrow has dried out, then it must be carefully cut out as close to the socket as possible; the length of the stump is not so important. The cut usually does not need to be treated with anything, but it can be treated with brilliant green, sprinkled with coal, and sulfur.

Question: How to propagate phalaenopsis?

Answer: Phalaenopsis reproduces vegetatively at home. But it should be noted that it is not as easy as other plants. The most painless method of reproduction is children's department, which sometimes, for certain reasons, is formed on a peduncle instead of a flower. But this doesn't happen often. You can separate it after formation own roots. The baby is raised to wet sphagnum, in a greenhouse. The baby will become a full-fledged specimen in about a year.

Sometimes phalaenopsis gives side babe. More often this occurs after damage or death of the growing point (rot, mechanical damage). The baby is separated and raised in the same way.

There is another way vegetative propagation - dividing the mother plant. A specimen with 6-10 leaves is cut crosswise so that the top also has at least a few roots. The cut is dried for several days, treated with sulfur, coal, top part planted in a mixture of sphagnum and bark, trying to ensure that the cut does not touch the substrate. The lower part should give side children, which are separated as described above.

Seed propagation of phalaenopsis at home is almost impossible.

Question: Phalaenopsis leaves turn yellow, what's the problem?

Answer: If only the bottom leaf turns yellow, and the rest remain green and elastic, then this is the natural death of the old leaf. Often, as a new leaf grows, the phalaenopsis sheds the lowest old leaf. The maximum number of leaves on a phalaenopsis can be 10-12 pieces, the minimum should be at least 3 leaves. If the plant does not grow new leaves, there are few of them, and it sheds the bottom leaf - the phalaenopsis starves. During famine, the main thing for any plant is to preserve the growth point; in order to do this, some parts of the plant (lower leaves, individual shoots) die, releasing nutrients upward.

So why might your plant be starving? Firstly, from lack of light. Then the process of photosynthesis cannot proceed normally, the plant does not produce organic matter for your construction. Secondly, from a lack of macro- and microelements that come with fertilizers. If the plant is in a dark place, it is necessary to provide it with light. If phalaenopsis has not been fed for a long time, it is necessary to start feeding it.

If at the same time several leaves turn yellow, they begin to rot - the plant was overwatered. In this case, the yellowing is spread over almost the entire sheet, not in spots. It is necessary to reduce watering and inspect the roots for rot. If necessary, take resuscitation measures (see above - resuscitation).

Extensive yellowing of several leaves c can also be caused by excess light. Sometimes this is accompanied simultaneously by large brown spots on the leaves and rosette of phalaenopsis. This happens if the phalaenopsis is placed in direct sun without shade. It is necessary to move it to a less lit place.

A chemical burn can also cause massive yellowing of leaves if the phalaenopsis is watered with a very concentrated solution of salts. Even one such treatment can cause the death of the plant.

Question: What do healthy Phalaenopsis roots look like?

Answer: The phalaenopsis root is a thread the thickness of a horsehair, which is covered on top with a water-retaining braid. The total root thickness is approximately 0.5 cm. Roots filled with water are green with white streaks. If the roots dry out, the color becomes silver. Dead roots become gray-brown or brown, empty inside, and wrinkled. If after soaking for 10 minutes the roots do not turn green (with white streaks), then they are dead.

Question: How to water phalaenopsis correctly and with what water?

Answer: It is better to water Phalaenopsis using the immersion method. Place the pot with phalaenopsis in a container, fill the container with water to the level of the beginning of the leaves, leave in this position for several minutes (no more than 10), remove the pot from the water, allow the remaining water to drain from drainage holes, bet on permanent place. The frequency of watering depends on environmental conditions (air humidity, temperature, etc.). Between watering, you need to let the roots dry, wait until the roots turn from green to silver.

Phalaenopsis can withstand slight drying, but is afraid of overwatering. When the roots become waterlogged, they are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. Eat Golden Rule: It’s better to underfill than overfill. Water for irrigation must be settled, at room temperature or 2-3 degrees warmer, preferably soft water with a low calcium content. If tap water contains a lot of calcium, it is better to take it for watering boiled water. The water must be boiled for several minutes, allowed to cool completely and carefully drained from the sediment that has formed at the bottom of the kettle. Passed through ion exchange filter It is not recommended to use water. You can use water passed through carbon filter. Fertilizers are added to water for irrigation according to the instructions. When watering, do not allow water to get into the center of the rosette of leaves, as this can lead to rotting of the growing point and its death.

Question: How long does Phalaenopsis bloom?

Answer: The duration of phalaenopsis flowering depends on the characteristics of the variety and maintenance conditions. Phalaenopsis usually blooms for 2-3 months, sometimes flowering lasts up to six months. The frequency of flowering may be determined by the variety and growing conditions. If the conditions are met, phalaenopsis should be guaranteed to bloom at least once a year.

Question:How long does Phalaenopsis live?

Answer: Phalaenopsis - perennial. Its lifespan in room conditions at proper care may be 7-10 years.

Question: What determines the size of phalaenopsis, the size of flowers and the height of the peduncle?

Answer: The size of the leaves, rosettes, flowers, and the height of the peduncle in phalaenopsis are determined by the variety, with slight fluctuations depending on the conditions of detention. If you purchased a mini-alenopsis, it will never become a phalaenopsis grande. The number of leaves and the height of the plant itself may increase, but not by much; the flowers will remain the original size.

Question: Why do phalaenopsis buds and flowers fall off?

Answer: Phalaenopsis can lose buds and flowers due to a sudden change in conditions. This often happens after purchasing a plant or improper transportation. During flowering, do not allow the roots to dry out.

Question: Why do spots appear on phalaenopsis flowers?

Answer: There are varieties of phalaenopsis with spotted flowers. Spots of a different nature appear after moisture gets on the flowers. It is not recommended to spray these orchids flower by flower. Often spots appear during transportation, white varieties especially suffer from this. Such flowers cannot be restored.