Some forty years ago no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles had to be managed to get hold of, and it was not always possible to buy tiles of the same color. It was glued (precisely glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all imaginable and inconceivable ways. And what was added to the adhesive mixture to keep it in the chosen place! They glued it without seams, so no one needed grout.
But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas about beauty and practicality.
Peculiarities
Today, it is simply impossible to imagine well-laid tiles without grout. The technology of laying facing tiles in our time implies that seams are made between decorative elements. Seams are the space between the ends of two adjacent tiles that are not filled with tile adhesive. You need to know how to properly grout tiles.
The tile joints have a purely utilitarian purpose:
- They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from physics courses that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow seams or no seams at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, pushing out one another.
- Tiles from different manufacturers are calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for deviation of the size of the finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can be up to 1 mm. When laying such tiles of different sizes without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.
In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, poorly calibrated tiles need to be moved, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.
To ensure that there are no gaps between the laid wall and floor finishing elements into which water and dirt can get in, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of their manufacturing technology.
The glaze that covers the ceramic is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. If the seams are not worn, brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.
A common mistake made by amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tile laying and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden using grout. Just like paint, it only highlights all the imperfections. Therefore, it is better to immediately replace defective tiles or lay them in an inconspicuous place, for example, for a bath or shower.
The composition and base of the grout varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some add special antifungal additives, others add strengthening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others add water-repellent properties.
The more such consumer properties a grout mixture has, the more expensive it is.
Kinds
The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement; the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) in various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.
To obtain a transparent or translucent seam, epoxy resin-based compounds are used, which can be tinted in different colors or various fillers can be added. Fillers can be finely ground silver or gold powder and small beads, as well as small holographic glitter, as for decorating nails.
The strength of such grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.
Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its peculiarity is its exceptionally deep black color. In gypsum or cement based grouts, the darkest color is anthracite, black with a gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to color correctly.
Today, silicone-based sealants painted in different colors are increasingly being used as grout in places of high load and humidity.
The classic material for grouting joints has been and remains clinker tile adhesive. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.
Grout is sold in any construction supermarket both in ready-to-use form and in the form of a mixture for preparing mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equivalent replacement.
How to divorce?
Those who make repairs with their own hands should learn the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, and not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the peculiarities of their composition are such that they take a little water, to obtain a solution of the desired consistency, water is added to the dry powder.
The water used to prepare any mortar should under no circumstances be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. It is necessary first of all to correctly calculate the proportions.
Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or 1 kg of dry mixture. But this figure is not mandatory. The thickness of the solution depends on the result that you want to achieve in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired thickness.
If, on the contrary, the mixture turns out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.
Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. Such compositions must be mixed thoroughly and for quite a long time until a thick, homogeneous mass is obtained.
The shelf life of diluted grout is short, at most half an hour to an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clump, loses its plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If the composition begins to thicken during operation, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.
If you prepare a lot of grout, it is very difficult to use it all without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of mixture at once is logical only if several people are working on grouting the joints at once, each of whom performs a certain stage.
The most suitable container for diluting grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. The flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the hardened grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, the cup is more likely to crack than the grout to come off the walls.
In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used directly from the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours in the open air, the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid substance unsuitable for grouting.
Tools
Before you start grouting, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and several thick sponges (like dishwashing sponges) with fine pores, as well as two absorbent cloth wipes. A stepladder is required for ease of work. To directly fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with the finished solution.
If the skills for applying grout have not been developed, it is better to take a small tool. It’s also a good idea to have a painting knife on hand to partially correct the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.
In special cases, you may need masking tape with good adhesion. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will make your work much easier and you will complete it faster.
How to apply?
Be sure to use gloves, so you can seal the seams without worrying about the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without protecting your hand skin, you risk contact dermatitis.
To ensure that the seams are neat, without any foreign inclusions or color deviations due to tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a generously wet sponge directly during the process of laying the tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it happens that dried glue still remains in the seams, it can be cleaned out using a small spatula or a painting knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, since mechanical stress can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will end up with chips that are very difficult to repair.
After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to wash them with a damp sponge and joint them.
You need to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and repair all the chips. You can also darken the seam or repaint it. You can change the color by adding special paints.
There are several ways to get beautiful and even seams using grout.
Gypsum or cement based
In any case, you can grout the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile is clearly fixed in its intended place. For floors, this moment is determined by the period when it will be possible to walk on the tiles without pushing the tiles under the weight of your own body.
The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, in continuous strokes along its entire length. The remaining grout is removed from the tiles with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the joint with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. Fill the seams on the entire wall in the same way. Then they return to the place where they started and clean the grout.
Cleaning the grout using this method of applying it has the goal of making all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is performed using a round ebonite stick. If you don’t have such a tool, you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. By running a stick along the seam with slight pressure over the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form its slightly concave smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed and even along the entire length.
After forming the seam, wipe the tiles first with a slightly damp and then with a dry cloth. Here it is very important to begin the process of forming a beautiful seam before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.
In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately using a damp sponge or finger, applying a sufficiently damp sponge with slight pressure. With this method, you won’t have to return to an already worn-out area. In addition, the tiles are washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.
The finished composition is placed in a grouting bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Either vertical or horizontal seams are filled first. When squeezing out the mixture, you need to carefully ensure that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinking, that is, reducing the volume when drying and evaporating moisture from them, you need to apply grout in a slightly larger quantity than it seems immediately at the moment of grouting the seam.
Sealant
Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special guns. The second option is used for rubbing seams. The sealed tip of the cylinder is cut off with a sharp knife, after which the conical nozzle supplied with the sealant is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the conical nozzle is cut off to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. Excess sealant from the surface of the tile should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth napkin.
Resin based
The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, before mixing the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and selected design filler. Try to apply the mixture directly into the seam. You can use a cooking bag with a nozzle or buy a special grout bag. It is most convenient to level the seams with a bendable plastic spatula.
If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the stained area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.
When grouting joints on tiles that have a textured surface rather than a smooth one, the mixture from the front surface of the tile must be immediately washed off with copious amounts of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into decent shape. When hardening, grout that has become embedded in small depressions in the relief is very difficult to clean. You could ruin your whole job.
If the tiles “do not fit,” then the seams are of different widths along one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after filling the seams as standard, you can use this trick: stick masking tape on both sides to a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be corrected. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest one. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.
Carefully apply the mixture to the seam being formed, immediately smoothing it out and eliminating defects. The tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to harden. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting the grout mixture on it. In this case, you won’t have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. You simply can’t do without adhesive tape here.
After grouting all the vertical and horizontal seams, do not forget to fill with the mixture all the technological cutouts on the tiles near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, taps for connecting the washing machine, and so on.
When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without recess. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise, the brown side surface will be visible from under the grout and ruin the whole impression.
For grouting, you can buy a mixture that matches the color of the tiles. But sometimes manufacturers use such colors and patterns that it is simply impossible to buy a ready-made mixture of colors. In such cases, you need to buy either just white grout, or the closest color, and bring it to the desired shade by adding tinting paste of the required color range.
High-quality tile installation does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore, grouting the joints between ceramic products is considered a very important step. It is this final step that directly determines the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, as well as durability. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or kitchen.
The joints between tiles are the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards by which tile laying technology is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.
This approach contains a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to sand the seam in the bathroom to prevent the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and for how long the shower room will remain. Here are some more advantages of proper grouting:
- ventilation of the base of the wall or floor is improved;
- tile displacement is leveled;
- protection from water, dirt, fungus;
- reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
- attractive appearance.
Choosing a solution
The seam must be rubbed correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this, it is necessary to select a high-quality composition that has high characteristics. Today, this aspect is given less attention than is required, however, this can cause very sad consequences.
To select a suitable mixture, it is worth selecting according to the following parameters:
Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout, or using varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its quality, so you should choose a special mixture characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition with a loose structure is not suitable here.
For the removal of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite a long time. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the required amount of material the first time. Therefore, the mixture is poured in gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.
On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. The weakness of this method of application is the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw away the amount of grout that is not useful. Thus, mixing the joint compound yourself is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.
Nowadays, making grout with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank and a certain amount of water will do. Some time after stirring, a white substance forms and is applied to the seam. However, when drying, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not radically change the situation.
Worth knowing! To prepare high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be of poor quality, which will lead to it crumbling after drying. It may be better to turn to the purchased option.
How to apply?
In order to properly grout the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:
- a small rubber spatula;
- capacity;
- water;
- foam sponge;
- brush;
- mixer.
When filling the container with water, you need to add grout solution to it in small portions. For this task you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:
- cleaning the base from debris and dirt;
- treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
- the seams are soaked with a damp brush for reliable adhesion;
- prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
- carefully compact the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
- if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
- after the solution has dried, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
- must be applied to the seams between the baseboard and the wall.
Need to know! Rubbing seams on the wall and floor has certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be treated from top to bottom, with the sealant applied last. The flooring is filled from the far corner to the exit, similar to laying tiles.
Let the bathroom dry for 24 hours, then re-treat it with protective agents against exposure, rot, mold, and mildew. This will significantly reduce the risk of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor; naturally, for it, the seam on the tiles will be like a river bed. So all that's left to do to complete the job is to apply epoxy resin.
After the bathroom has acquired its final appearance, it is necessary to take care of the attractive appearance of the room. You can use a tile grout marker to remove traces of grout. Usually the surface is rubbed down in 2-3 approaches; if the mastic has not yet completely dried, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.
Remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed using water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then carefully scrape it off with a scraper. Remaining stains can be removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has a ribbed or uneven surface, then cleaning is carried out with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.
Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet completely hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with a relief surface this becomes very difficult.
Caring for bathroom ceramics is, for obvious reasons, different from a regular room. About once every two months, you need to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special or folk detergents in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They cope well with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.
Video instruction
Each master has his own technology on how to properly grout joints. Let's look at an example of cement grouting tile joints without the help of professionals and craftsmen. That is, with your own hands. I think you will like this technology for grouting tile joints with your own hands.
A well-made grout can mask existing installation defects, while a poorly done grout can completely destroy the impression of a flawless installation.
The main thing is to do everything correctly and avoid mistakes in your work.
For DIY repairs, cement-based grout is best. This is a powder that is diluted with water or liquid latex. Of course, you can pick up a ready-to-use liquid solution in the store, but it costs much more. In addition, in a solution made on your own, you can adjust the density yourself.
We are starting renovations!
To carry out the work with our own hands and strength, we need:
A construction mixer will not only save effort and time, but also mix the solution much better.
- tile grout (regular, moisture-resistant, colored - depending on your preferences and room);
- water (for mixing the grout and washing off unnecessary residues at the end);
- spatula (preferably rubber, for more convenient processing of seams);
- construction mixer (to obtain a homogeneous mass without lumps, but you can do without it - stir everything with a stick or spatula);
- bucket or bowl (any vessel in which you can stir the solution);
- sponge (washcloth or regular kitchen sponge; if you don’t have one, you can use a regular rag).
To form neat seams you will need a special spatula that will help you achieve beautiful and even lines. Although if such a device is not at hand, do not be discouraged. You can correct the tile seams with your own hands, or rather, with your fingers.
Before starting work, check whether the adhesive on which the tiles were laid is completely dry and thoroughly clean the tiles of debris and dirt. Remove any remaining spacers (crosses) between the tiles as they may spoil the appearance after the work is completed.
Return to contents
The process of laying grout on tiles
We take a container for stirring the grout, the grout itself and begin to make a solution, stirring the powder with water until a homogeneous mass is obtained with the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that the finished mixture tends to harden, that is, if the work area is large enough, you will have to prepare the solution several times.
Important: for better adhesion of the tiles to the material, moisten the seams with water using a narrow brush or sponge. But do not overdo it, as excess moisture can cause the grout to crack or fall out of the joints, both during the work process and after it has dried. You can also use a garden sprinkler or spray bottle to save time. If there are plumbing fixtures, household appliances or other things near the tiles that you do not want to get dirty, cover them with masking tape while the work is being done. Rubber gloves can be used to protect your hands. You can do everything with your bare hands, but be prepared that tile grout is very drying to the skin.
We scoop the grout onto a rubber spatula and spread it in a small mound onto the previously cleaned and prepared wall. We move the spatula diagonally, holding it at an angle of 30-45 degrees to the tile and try to fill the seams as much as possible. The stronger the pressing force, the more densely the seam will be filled and the material will adhere more firmly. The main idea of the whole process is to fill as efficiently and correctly as possible all the voids and corners around the tiles that remain after laying them. When filling the seams, press the grout into them and immediately wipe off the excess from unnecessary areas. Remember to stir the solution in the bucket from time to time so that it remains soft and elastic before applying it to new areas. According to the technology for grouting tile joints on walls, you need to move from the top of the wall to the bottom. If you are grouting seams on the floor, it would be correct to move from the corner of the room to the exit. Try to do everything as efficiently as possible, quickly and accurately. As you work, you will be able to see for yourself what the drying speed of your solution is, and determine at what speed you should work.
When all the seams are filled, proceed to the step of removing excess grout from the tiles. This time, hold the putty knife at right angles to the tile and scrape the excess into a bucket.
Wet the sponge as much as possible and then test a small area of the cladding surface. The grout in the seams should be elastic and dense, but not hard.
Next, after the initial cleaning, wait 15-30 minutes until the grout dries. After initial cleaning, the grout requires wet cleaning with a sponge. To determine whether the tiles and grout joints are ready for the second stage of cleaning, wet the sponge and try cleaning a small area first. The grout in the seams should remain dense and elastic, but not hard, otherwise the tiles will have to be cleaned with great effort, which can lead to damage to the seams. Next, with a damp sponge or cloth, we begin to remove excess grout from the tiles in a circular motion. Remember to constantly rinse the sponge and wring it out thoroughly. How well the tiles are cleaned can be seen by the cleanliness of the water in the bucket. Ideally, the seam should be smooth on top, not convex, even slightly concave. Seams can be trimmed using the edge of a sponge. To do this, run the sponge parallel to the seam, carefully removing any ridges and filling the indentations with a small amount of grout on your fingertip. It is very important to give all grouted tile joints the same shape and depth.
At the end, a final thorough cleaning of the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge is done. If you are unable to remove grout residue with a sponge, use a coarse bristle brush. Remember, the longer grout remains on the tiles, the more difficult it is to remove. Grouted seams will finally harden 5-7 days after you do the grouting yourself.
Happy renovation!
The final stage of laying tiles is grouting. In this article we will talk about how to make grout, what role it plays and what is needed for this work.
Why is grout needed?
The joints between the tiles are the spaces at the junctions of different fragments. Their width can vary from 2 to 5 mm. The width of the seam is determined by the width of the tile; the larger it is, the wider the seam.
The resulting space is filled with special grout. There are several reasons for this:
- The wall will breathe through these seams.
- It improves the quality of tile adhesion.
- Protects the tile adhesive layer from the negative effects of moisture.
- Due to the dampness, the likelihood of dampness and mold formation is eliminated.
- Performs a decorative role. You can choose grout in different colors, for example, to match the cladding or as a contrast.
The quality of the composition affects the final result.
Choice of grout
When choosing, the following factors must be taken into account: 
Color. The chosen color affects the final result, whether it will be beautiful or not. You can highlight individual elements or emphasize a certain pattern; the grout can be contrasting. If you want to create a monolithic picture, the color of the grout should match the tile. There are no restrictions in this matter, it all depends on personal preference and vision of the final result.
Properties and composition. This is another important point to which attention is drawn. The composition may contain different components, for example, epoxy resin, Portland cement, alabaster, gypsum, etc. The composition depends on the purpose of the grout.
If grouting tiles is done in a very damp room, the grout should be water-repellent. If we are talking about floor cladding, then the mixture must be resistant to abrasion and contain the appropriate components.
Purpose. Be sure to make an individual choice for floor and wall tiles. Wall mixture is not suitable for the floor, since under heavy load it will quickly wear out and will need updating. The floor requires a tenacious mixture.
Cooking rules
Having chosen a suitable mixture for grout joints, we will consider the basic rules for its preparation. An easy way to avoid mistakes is to follow the instructions on the package.
The manufacturer indicates the proportions in which the dry mixture should be mixed with water. If you bought a ready-made solution, then it does not need to be prepared, except that you should just mix it. 
If the proportions are not observed when mixing the dry mixture, the mass may turn out to be too liquid. As a result, it will flow out of the joint. If it is too thick, it is unlikely that you will be able to make a high-quality grout.
Important! Failure to comply with the proportions leads to a decrease in the quality and strength of the grout.
In most cases, there is about 300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry mixture. The liquid should be at room temperature. With these proportions, the mixture will have the consistency of sour cream. This mixture is easy to work with. You won't need to put in much effort.
Sequencing
The entire work process consists of several successive stages:
- Preparation of the mixture.
- Distribution of grout into the tile joint.
- Cleaning seams from excess.
For work, prepare the following set of items:
- Protective glasses.
- Grout.
- Respirator (in case of mixing cement mixture).
- Container for clean water.
- Clean cloth and sponge.
- Mixing container.
- Rubber spatula.
- Gloves.
- Brush.
- Rectangular trowel.
If the grout is diluted, place a small portion on the surface of the tile with a rubber spatula. To evenly distribute the mortar into the seams, use a rectangular trowel or a regular rubber spatula. 
The correct sequence of actions when grouting tiles - expert advice
Hold the spatula at an angle of 30° and distribute the grout diagonally between the seams. Go over the surface of the tile with a spatula three times.
The mixture should fill the existing cladding joints well. The higher the density, the better. If a decorative corner was installed at the corners, then grout is also placed in the existing cracks.
note
The grout is distributed gradually over the entire area. First fill the joints in an area of 2 m2 and gradually move forward.
Don't make a big batch right away. The mixture may set, especially if you are not yet skilled at this work. During this work, spaces near sockets, heated towel rail mounts and other plumbing elements must be filled.
Grouting using a special bag
Many people decide to simplify their task and use a special grout bag. The principle of its operation resembles a pastry bag. A tip is attached to the end of the bag. The width of the tip should match the gap between the tiles.
After this, the grouting mass is prepared and poured into the bag. Next, through the hole, the mixture is squeezed directly into the joint between the tiles.
Before doing this, point the tip directly to the joint. As you squeeze out the grout, move the bag until the seam is completely filled.
First, fill the horizontal seams, and then vertically. It is necessary to squeeze out the solution in larger portions than may seem necessary. The composition will still be compacted.
There shouldn't be any problems when working on the wall. The essence of working with tile joints on the floor is almost the same. We will look at several nuances. 
Simplification of work is achieved by using a construction float, which has a rubber pad. At arm's length, spread the grout with sweeping movements.
To achieve the desired result, the mixture should be slightly thinner. This method is only possible when laying smooth tiles. If the surface is textured and has protrusions, then the mixture will fill all the pores. Afterwards you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning the tiles.
Important! When it comes to processing floor tiles, be sure to choose those compounds that are resistant to possible stress.
How to deal with cracking
One common problem is cracking of the seams between tiles. Most often, this problem is characteristic of cement-based compositions.
There can be many reasons for this, for example:
- Sudden changes in temperature.
- Exposure to hot water.
- Floating wooden floor.
- Incorrect mixing when grouting.
If a crack is discovered, it should be repaired immediately. Water can have a negative effect on tile adhesive and substrate. This may cause mold to form. 
There are several ways to get rid of cracks. For example, completely unstitch the seams and refill them with a new mixture. If the cracks are in the initial stages, then take the dry mixture and thoroughly rub it into the seams.
It is more effective to prevent this problem. The preparation of the mixture must be in accordance with existing proportions. The solution should have medium viscosity. After kneading, let the mixture sit for up to 5 minutes, and then re-mix and work with it.
note
During the drying process, it is unacceptable to ventilate the room or turn on the heating for quick drying. The grout should dry in the most natural temperature environment possible.
Conclusion
So, here we are, learning how to grout tile joints. We looked at the technology of this process and how to implement everything correctly. We hope this material was useful to you. In conclusion, we suggest watching a master class on grouting clinker floor tiles:
Repairs can seem endless if you are “pulling the cat by the tail.” In fact, each stage of work is not so difficult if you approach the matter competently and harmoniously. Grouting joints between tiles also requires this attitude. It is necessary to sand the seams, as this will improve the aesthetic appearance and help hide various cladding defects. If the work is done poorly, you can easily ruin all your work. Therefore, today we turn to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles so that the kitchen will only delight you with its brand new transformation, and all possible flaws will be veiled as best as possible.
To make it more clear to you, we have compiled today’s material into three main parts:
1. How to grout seams on tiles correctly?
2. How to remove grout?
3. If the grout cracks...
Preparatory work
Grouting should not begin without making sure that the tile adhesive is completely dry. Before performing work, you should also clean the seams themselves from dust, debris and other dirt. Those. The surface for grouting needs to be prepared. Don't forget to remove the dividing crosses. It is extremely undesirable to leave them, because after grouting these places will immediately catch your eye - the grout will lie thicker, and therefore will differ in color from the seams above the dividers.
The side edges of each tile must be wetted with water if you are dealing with unglazed tiles. The fact is that the grout contains moisture, and the unglazed surface tends to absorb it. But you need to wet the edges of the tiles carefully so that moisture does not accumulate in the joints between the tiles, and large drops of water are not visible on the tile itself. Otherwise, excess moisture will damage the grout, causing it to crack over time. Typically, manufacturers write all the necessary instructions on the grout packaging.
If glazed tiles were used in the kitchen, you can grout the seams on the tiles immediately after the glue has dried. There is no need to wet the tile edges.
How to grout seams on tiles correctly?
Before grouting ceramic tiles, you need to prepare all the necessary tools in advance. So, you will need:
Grout
- rubber spatula or rubberized roller, grout bag
- respirator (it is only needed for cement grouting)
- a piece of plywood (if you are grouting tiles on the floor)
- sealant (we’ll also tell you why it’s needed)
- small brush or paint roller
- sponge and clean cloth
- bucket and water
- protective equipment (glasses and rubber gloves)
Progress
There are two ways to grout tile joints: with a rubber spatula or using a grout bag. Choose the method that is convenient for you.
Important: The tiles must be clean! There should be no dust, no dirt, no glue residue on it. The seams between the tiles should also be cleaned! And the tile must be dry before grouting.
How to grout tile joints using a spatula or grater?
Look at the packaging of the purchased grout. It should indicate the required proportions for diluting the grout (don't forget to check the expiration date). Carry out all manipulations according to the instructions (you have prepared a bucket for this). The finished grout is suitable for use for only 20 minutes. So don't breed too much. The grout is distributed using a grout float (choose one with porous rubber glued on) or a rubber spatula. Now, using a spatula or float, place a mound of grout on the tile and begin spreading. The tool should be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and grout should be applied with diagonal movements. Try not to smear the grout over the surface of the tile, but rather rub it into the seams, pressing firmly. If the seam is filled tightly with the substance, then move on to the next one. Your task is to thoroughly fill all the voids and corners around the tiles with mortar.
When the first 5 minutes have passed after filling the joint with grout, wipe the tiles with a damp cloth. It should not be too dry or too wet. Water can erode the grout or change the color of the grout.
Don't start grouting a large area at once! Select a work area of 1 meter square and gradually move further. This will give you an idea of how quickly the grout will set before you can start removing the excess.
How to grout tiles using a grout bag?
Typically, a grout bag is used on surfaces that will be difficult to clean later. A grout bag is a lot like a pastry bag. First, a special tip is put on the bag, the width of which is equal to the seam between the tiles. Then grout is added to it, which is squeezed directly into the seam through the tip.
Start filling the tile joint from top to bottom. Those. placed the tip in the upper part, began to squeeze out the grout, moving the hand down, and then, in the same way, squeezing out the substance, moving the hand up. And so on until the seam is tightly filled with mortar. It is very important to do this work not around each tile separately, but along the entire length of the seam. Start with horizontal seams first, and then move on to vertical ones.
Another nuance of working with a grout bag is to compact the dense layer after setting with a smooth metal tube with a diameter larger than the width of the tile joint or joint. Those. When you have filled the seam and the grout has set a little, it needs to be compacted. Take this moment into account! Therefore, you need to squeeze the grout into the seam a little more so that after compacting you don’t get a hole. You can use the end of a toothbrush instead of a tube. Try to keep all seams looking the same.
It takes about half an hour for the compacted grout to completely set in the seam. After this, you can begin to remove the excess. How this is done is described below.
How to remove grout?
Grout is removed in three stages!
Stage one - dry removal
When all the seams have been grouted, take a float with porous rubber glued on. You will use it to remove excess grout from the tiles. Hold the tool at an angle of 90 degrees in relation to the tile. Start moving the float diagonally relative to the tile joints. You cannot move the trowel horizontally or vertically, as there is a high risk of damaging the worn seams. Then you will have to add grout to them again. Having removed all excess grout, wait for it to completely set and only then proceed with wet removal.
Stage two - wet grout removal
The grout in the tile joints sets and hardens much longer than the grout on the tiles. If in the first case the time can stretch up to half an hour, then in the second only a few minutes may be enough. To make sure that the grout in the seams is completely dry, you need to heavily moisten the sponge with water and wipe a small area of the seam with it. If the grout is pulled by the sponge, it means it is not completely dry. We'll have to wait some more. Wet removal begins only after the grout in the tile joints has completely dried.
Then take a sponge with rounded edges, wet it with water and begin to carefully move in a circular motion over the tile, gently matching the seams. This is how, gradually, all excess particles of sand and cement will be removed. Don't forget to rinse the sponge and change the water in the bucket. Remember that water can wash away the grout in the joints. So don't overdo it. Leave the seams to dry for 25 minutes.
Stage three - remove grout residues with acid-containing products
After wet removal of grout from your tiles, you may be left with a small white residue on the tiles or hardened grout stains that were unable to be removed with water. To get rid of these defects, use acid-containing products. For example, Deterdek or Litokol.
If you tiled the floor, then for better drying, cover the tiles with plywood.
The sealant will help the tiles stay beautiful for a long time.
We think that a lot is already clear from the title itself. The sealant helps prevent stains on ceramic tiles and prevents grout lines from absorbing excess moisture. The most common series of sealants are based on silicone, varnish or acrylic. Choose based on the type of tile and grout you used.
Cover the tiles with sealant only when the joints are dry (the drying time for the grout is indicated in the instructions) and the ceramic tiles. Therefore, make sure the surface is clean first. The sealant can be used to cover the entire tile or just the seams. In the first case, you will need a small paint roller, in the second, a small brush. If you only apply sealant to the seams, then immediately remove any excess that gets on the tiles.
You may need to seal the tiles again in a couple of years. The actions are still the same.
What type of grout should I choose for tile joints?
All grouts can be divided into two main categories: cement-based or epoxy-based. When choosing grout for tiles, always read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. For example, a silicone sealant in your case will not be suitable for tile joints. Its purpose is to fill the voids between tiles when laying on another surface. Be careful!
Cement based grout
It is sold both in the form of a dry mixture, which should be diluted, and in a ready-made version. You understand that everything that is ready-made costs more. Cement-based grouts differ from each other by additives - industrial cement, dry hardener, latex mixture. They should only be used with special protective equipment - a respirator, safety glasses and rubber gloves. Take special care of your eyes and hands. Cement grout can negatively impact your lungs and skin and cause eye inflammation and irritation.
Epoxy resin grout
This type of grout requires wide joints. For example, tile joints less than 6 mm wide and tiles up to 12 mm thick are not suitable for epoxy grout. It simply cannot penetrate there, since it has a rather viscous consistency.
If the grout is cracking
It may happen that after a couple of weeks the grout suddenly begins to develop cracks. And there are several reasons for this:
1. The grout dilution technology specified by the manufacturer was not followed. Those. you added too much water. Therefore, when excess moisture began to evaporate, the grout layer began to sag - hence the cracks (the grout mass in the tile joints decreased).
2. The tile itself may also absorb water from the grout.
3. The grout instructions always indicate the width of the joints for which it is intended. If you ignore this point, then the appearance of cracks is inevitable.
4. Uneven surface for tiling.
Options to correct the situation:
1. If you used white grout, then carefully scratch the grout in defective places with an ordinary construction knife and apply a new layer over the old layer.
2. If you used colored grout, then the method described above will not work. The new color can mix with the old layer and give a different shade. Therefore, you will have to completely remove the grout from the seam and fill it with new one. Removing grout from all tile joints is very expensive. There is a high risk of damaging the tiles. Therefore, do this only in cracked areas.
Important!!! If you do not pay attention to the cracks, they will only expand over time. Therefore, it is better not to let things take their course.
Which grout should I choose for tiles?
The color of the grout plays an important role. For example, white grout in combination with dark tiles will emphasize the geometry of the installation, but in the opposite situation, it will smooth it out. Dark grout fades over the years, and white grout becomes covered with a yellow coating (you can try scrubbing it off with a melamine sponge).