During the construction of a house, there is no way to do without installing a ceiling. This design limits the height of the room, insulates it from the penetration of cold air in winter, and takes on loads from the roof or upper floor. In modern technologies, a slab reinforced with reinforcement is most often used.
Description of types, design features, technical requirements
Depending on the location and functional purpose, concrete floors come in several types:
- basement;
- interfloor;
- attic;
- attics.
According to another classification, they are divided into solid and prefabricated. The first ones are made independently, pouring the mixture onto a prepared reinforcement frame. This method does not require the use of a crane to lift the slabs, but additional workers will be needed to install the formwork, tie the frame, and pour concrete.
Prefabricated systems are obtained by laying standard panels of the required size. According to their design, they come in three types: monolithic, ribbed, hollow. In private construction, the third option is more often used. Product dimensions: length – up to 7 m, width – 1.5, height – 0.22.
Taking into account the operating conditions, the following requirements are imposed:
- strength and rigidity exceeding the design load (it is defined as the total weight of the slab itself, screed, furniture, and other things);
- high level of sound insulation;
- fire resistance;
- The thickness of the walls for concrete blocks is at least 200 mm.
Concrete has high thermal conductivity, to reduce which it is recommended to insulate it, for example, with mineral wool.
Installation instructions
Preliminary preparation of the structure and slabs helps to lay a finished concrete floor with your own hands.
Scheme of preparatory work
1. To ensure that the panels are in the same plane, the upper end of the load-bearing walls is checked for horizontalness. This can be done in this order: 30-40 cm before the end of the laying, markers are applied to the wall using a laser or liquid level, and then the finishing brick rows are checked with a tape measure. The top row is positioned so that the bricks are oriented towards the inside of the room.
2. Most often, the edge of the box is aligned differently - the perimeter of the upper edge of the walls with reinforcement is concreted. Due to this, the brick or block structure is further strengthened. At a certain level, the masonry leaves an empty space for the armored belt. The depth of support (overlap) of the ceiling depends on the total thickness of the slab together with thermal insulation. Typically the panel extends into the wall by 70-120 mm.
The scheme for pouring an armored belt is similar to laying a foundation: formwork is installed, a frame of reinforcing bars is made inside it using welding, and the mixture is poured without crushed stone. The design of the belt for the plinth is made faster: simply add additional formwork along the outer edge of the foundation.
3. Before installing the slabs, be sure to close the voids at their ends. If this is not done, when placing the wall of the upper floor on the edge of the ceiling, it may collapse. Concreting the joints between the slabs will not produce results: the mixture will flow into the holes. It is not difficult to close the cavity - half a brick is inserted into it and sealed with mortar.
4. Prepare a site for lifting equipment. This is an area with dense soil, otherwise the crane will get stuck in soft soil. To ensure its stability, temporary placement of road panels on the site is practiced. It is advisable not to place the crane close to the pit to prevent the collapse of the soil or the sliding of heavy equipment.
Laying technology
It will not be possible to install the ceiling yourself; the process usually involves three installers. One worker connects the slabs, the other two correct them as they are lowered.
1. A fairly thick concrete mixture is applied to the reinforced belt (layer thickness at least 2 cm).
2. The crane operator lowers the panel, holding it by tensioning the sling ropes. In a suspended position, it can be easily moved in the desired direction using a crowbar.
3. Compensation cut. It is necessary if one slab covers several spans. Conventional structures work in bending and must rest on two short ends. If intermediate supports are installed, tensile stresses arise in the upper part of the floors. Since there is no reinforcement there, cracks may appear. To relieve stress, use a grinder to saw through a groove, placing it above the intermediate support. Subsequently, a crack will appear at the site of the slot.
4. Anchoring. This is stitching with reinforcing wire: it is threaded through the mounting lugs, tightened, and then welded. The scheme is usually included in the project; if it is not there, the standard version is used. For load-bearing walls there is at least 1 anchor for every 3 linear meters; for non-load-bearing walls, anchors are removed from all outer loops. The end plates are sewn together with diagonal anchors.
The gaps between the tiles (rusts) are filled with concrete mortar, due to which the structure becomes monolithic and durable.
During installation, sometimes you have to adjust the dimensions. The optimal overlap on the wall is no more than 120 mm, and the maximum permissible value is 250. Increasing this parameter changes the design of the ceiling, and as a result, cracks may appear on it. The panels are shortened in the following way:
- mark a cutting line, place a block under it - its thickness should be such that the edge to be separated is suspended;
- According to the markings, make an incision with a grinder, use a sledgehammer to split the concrete above and below the voids;
- break partitions;
- metal reinforcement is cut with a grinder, leaving a couple of millimeters - this residue is broken with a sledgehammer (otherwise the stressed reinforcement may pinch the disc of the grinder).
If the size is insufficient, the gap near the wall is filled with bricks.
How to make a ceiling yourself?
The frame is made from edged boards (thickness 25-35 mm), plywood (thickness from 20 mm) or rented.
1. Install the formwork. Its dimensions should be such that the edges rest against the walls without gaps. The position of the structure is checked using a level. Cover it with waterproofing film.
2. Reinforced. Typically, rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm are used for the frame. First, longitudinal and then transverse elements are laid (cell 12-15 cm), tied with wire. The upper mesh of the frame is made in the same order, the joints of the rods are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, and the ends of the rods are placed on the load-bearing beams.
3. Preparation of concrete. Volumetric proportions of its components:
- sifted sand - 2 parts;
- crushed stone (gravel) – 1 part;
- cement M400(500) – 1 part;
- water.
Pour enough water so that the solution resembles liquid sour cream in thickness.
4. Filling. All cavities are carefully filled with the mixture, “smoothed” with a shovel, removing air. For the finishing fill, make a thicker mixture and lay it down. The thickness of the layer is 2-3 cm less than the final size of the overlap. After a couple of days, the set composition is covered with a cement-sand mortar of medium thickness and leveled with a rule to an ideal plane.
The solidifying monolith is periodically watered and covered with film in hot weather. On the 10th day, the formwork is removed and allowed to gain strength for 3-5 weeks. After this, you can begin the next stage of construction.
According to forum participant ontwerper from Moscow, it’s not that difficult to do on your own. He cites well-known and little-known considerations for their manufacture as arguments. In his opinion, making ceilings with your own hands is beneficial for several reasons:
- Availability of technologies and materials;
- Convenience and practicality from architectural and engineering points of view;
- Such floors are durable, fireproof and have noise-insulating properties;
- Financial feasibility.
Monolithic works
Before pouring concrete, ontwerper advises to carefully think through the entire process and, first of all, order concrete from the factory. It is better than homemade - there is control over the quality and quantity of fillers that improve the concrete and prevent it from delaminating for a long time. The composition must consist of heavy aggregates, have a strength class of B20-B30 (M250-M400), and frost resistance of F50.
Don’t be lazy and check the documents for the release parameters, grade and time until the concrete sets.
If you need to supply concrete to the second, third floor or over a long distance, you will not be able to do this without a concrete pump, and rolling concrete with shovels along endless gutters is a very difficult and inconvenient task.
In winter, concrete can be ordered with antifreeze additives, taking into account that additives usually increase the time of strength gain, some of them provoke corrosion of reinforcement, but this is acceptable if the additive is factory-made.
ontwerper prefers not to carry out construction in winter, and does not recommend it to you. As a last resort, do not prepare the solution yourself; use industrial concrete.
Installation of formwork
The main purpose of formwork is to withstand the mass of freshly poured concrete and not deform. To calculate the strength, you need to know that one 20-centimeter layer of concrete mixture presses on a square meter of formwork with a force of 500 kg, to this you need to add the pressure of the mixture when it falls from a hose, and you will understand that all structural elements must be reliable.
To make it, ontwerper recommends using 18-20mm laminated (coated) or plain plywood (but it sticks more strongly). For beams, crossbars and formwork posts, timber with a thickness of at least 100x100 mm should be used.
After assembling it, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of all structures. Otherwise, you will waste a lot of time and money fixing errors in the future.
Reinforcement
The lower one is along the span, the lower one is across the span, the upper one is across the span, the upper one is along the span.
span– the distance between the supporting walls (for a rectangular slab on the short side). The lowest row is placed on plastic crackers specially designed for this; their height is 25-30mm. The top row overlaps it across and is knitted with wire at all intersections.
Then the next step is the installation of a mesh separator - parts made of reinforcement with a certain pitch, it can be done at will. On the dividers - knit the top one across, - knit the top one along it, - knit with wire at all intersections. The top point of the frame (top of the upper rod) should be 25-30 mm below the top edge of the formwork wall, or the thickness of the concrete is 25-30 mm above the top reinforcement.
After the reinforcement is completed, the frame should be a rigid structure that should not move when concrete is poured from the pump. Before pouring, check that the pitch and diameter of the reinforcement correspond to the design.
Pouring concrete
After all the preparation, you need to take and distribute the concrete over the entire area and vibrate it. It is best to fill the slab entirely at one time; if this is not possible, place cuts - intermediate walls inside the formwork contour that limit concreting. They are made from steel mesh with a cell size of 8-10 mm, installing it vertically and attaching it to the frame reinforcement. Under no circumstances should you make cuts in the middle of the span and do not make them from boards, PPS.
Curing
After pouring the slab, you need to cover it to prevent precipitation from entering, and constantly water the outer surface to keep it moist. After about a month, you can remove the formwork, and in case of emergency, this can be done no earlier than after a week and only remove the panels. To do this, you need to carefully remove the shield and back up the slab with a stand. The racks support the stove until it is completely ready, about a month.
Strength of monolithic floor: calculation
It comes down to comparing two factors:
- Forces acting in the slab;
- The strength of its reinforced sections.
The first must be less than the second.
Walls on a monolithic floor slab: calculating the loads
Let us calculate the constant loads on a monolithic floor slab.
Self-weight of a monolithic floor slab with a load safety factor of 2.5 t/m3 x 1.2 = 2.75 t/m3.
- For slab 200mm - 550kg/m3
Own weight of a floor with a thickness of 50mm-100mm – screed – 2.2t/m2 x 1.2= 2.64t/m3
- for floor 50mm - 110kg/m3
Bring partitions made of bricks measuring 120mm to the area of the slab. The weight of 1 linear meter of a partition with a height of 3m is 0.12m x 1.2x1.8 t/m3 x 3m = 0.78t/m, with a step of partitions 4m long it turns out to be approximately 0.78/4 = 0.2t/m2. Thus, the reduced weight of the partitions = 300 kg/m2.
Payload for the 1st group of limit states (strength) 150 kg/m3 - housing, taking into account the reliability factor of 1.3, we will accept. Temporary 150x1.3= 195kg/m2.
The total design load on the slab is 550+110+300+195=1150kg/m2. For sketch calculations we will accept a load of - 1.2t/m2.
Determination of moment forces in loaded sections
Bending moments determine 95% of the reinforcement of flexural slabs. Loaded sections are the middle of the span, in other words, the center of the slab.
Bending moments in a square plan slab of reasonable thickness, hingedly supported - not clamped along the contour (on brick walls) in each of the X, Y directions can be approximately determined as Mx=My=ql^2/23. You can get some values for special cases.
- Slab in plan 6x6m - Mx=My= 1.9tm;
- Slab in plan 5x5m - Mx=My= 1.3tm;
- The slab is 4x4m in plan - Mx=My= 0.8tm.
These are forces that act both along and across the slab, so you need to check the strength of two mutually perpendicular sections.
Checking strength to the longitudinal axis
When checking the strength to the longitudinal axis of the section by bending moment (let the moment be positive, i.e. belly down), the section has compressed concrete on top and stretched reinforcement on the bottom. They form a power couple that perceives the momentary force coming to it.
Determination of effort in this pair
The height of the pair can be roughly determined as 0.8h, where h is the height of the slab section. We define the force in the reinforcement as Nx(y)=Mx(y)/(0.8h). We get a representation of the 1 m width of the slab section.
- Slab in plan 6x6m -Nx(y)= 11.9t;
- Slab in plan 5x5m - Mx=My= 8.2t;
- The slab is 4x4m in plan - Mx=My= 5t.
For these efforts, select reinforcement of class A-III (A400) - a periodic profile. The calculated tensile strength of the reinforcement is R=3600kg/cm2. cross-sectional area of the reinforcing bar with diameter Ф8=0.5cm2, Ф12=1.13cm2, Ф16=2.01cm2, Ф20=3.14cm2.
The bearing capacity of the rod is equal to Nst=Ast*R Ф8=1.8t, Ф12=4.07t, Ф16=7.24t, Ф20=11.3t. From here you can obtain the required reinforcement spacing. Step = Nst/ Nx(y)
- Slab in plan 6x6m for F12 reinforcement Step=4.07t/11.9t=34cm;
- Slab in plan 5x5m - for F8 reinforcement Step = 1.8/ 8.2 = 22cm;
- Slab in plan 4x4m - Ф8 Step=1.8/5=36cm.
This is strength reinforcement in each of the X and Y directions, i.e. a square grid of rods in the tensile zone of concrete.
In addition to strength, it is necessary to reduce the formation of cracks. For slabs of houses and residential premises with a span of up to 6 m, 200 mm thick, supported along the contour (i.e. on four sides) at any ratio a/b, you can take lower working reinforcement from A III rods in two directions with a step of 200x200 with a diameter of 12 mm, upper ( constructive) - the same from F8, thinner and smaller should not be.
All this is a special case of the general approach, demonstrating the specifics of the task, but to implement it it is necessary to look deeper and turn to specialists.
Posted by FORUMHOUSE member ontwerper.
Editor: Adamov Roman
When constructing buildings of two or more floors, an integral part of the work being carried out is the installation of floor slabs. Most often, of course, factory-made PC floor slabs are used, which, after pouring the armored belt, rest on it. However, in some cases, preference still has to be given to doing all the work yourself.
There are cases when it is impossible to use ready-made factory slabs. For example, if the building has non-standard dimensions or shape and cutting floor slabs will not help to completely cover the entire required area. Then the only option will be to fill it yourself.
If, due to the limited size of the construction site or difficulties in approaching it, using a crane is unrealistic, then you can also pour the floor slab yourself.
The advantage of working with your own hands
Although performing such work is a labor-intensive process, it nevertheless has a number of advantages, thanks to which, even having the opportunity to use factory-made slabs. Some people still prefer to make the floor slab with their own hands.
Advantages of making it yourself:
- Monolithic structure of the ceiling, no seams or joints. Thanks to this, the load is evenly distributed over the entire slab, the walls of the building, and the foundation.
- Possibility of non-standard house layout. Pouring the slabs yourself allows you not to adjust the dimensions of the house and the layout to the dimensions of factory products.
- No need to use heavy equipment.
- The ability to significantly reduce costs by doing most of the work yourself.
- There is no need to fill an armored belt, but in the case of using factory reinforced concrete, a belt is needed under the floor slabs.
Installation of formwork
There are two options for constructing horizontal formwork: renting plastic or metal formwork, as well as performing the installation of formwork under the slab yourself.
Work begins with the installation of vertical posts on which the entire structure and monolithic floor slab will rest. These racks can be rented or purchased used. They are good because their height can be adjusted and they can be used for any ceiling height. The distance between the posts should be about a meter. It is necessary to place a longitudinal beam on the racks, which will support the entire structure.
Next comes the installation of the frame. To do this, it is necessary to use a beam with a cross-section of 15*5 cm. The frame is constructed around the perimeter of the building, and to ensure greater reliability, additional transverse beams are placed. Each subsequent transverse beam is mounted at a distance of about 70 cm from the previous one.
Preparing the surface for pouring
After constructing the frame, it is necessary to prepare the surface for pouring. To do this, boards or plywood are laid on the frame (the first option is cheaper, but thanks to the second, you can achieve a flat surface on the ceiling of the lower floor). These boards should be close to the wall so that there are no gaps. After this, it is necessary, using support posts, to level the surface so that the top of the formwork exactly coincides with the edge of the wall made of brick or foam block.
Next, the vertical part of the formwork is installed. At the same time, it must be remembered that the slab must extend some distance onto the exposed wall. So that the formwork boards can be used for other purposes after removal, it is better to cover them with plastic film.
We apply reinforcement
If factory products are used for the ceiling, then the installation of an armored belt is mandatory for buildings made of blocks. The reason for this is the fact that under the weight of the slabs, due to the uneven shrinkage of the building, serious cracks in the walls may occur in the future. In this case, the reinforced belt will ensure that the entire mass of the slabs will be evenly distributed on the walls of the building. The structure of the armored belt is similar to a strip foundation, supported by the walls of the building.
However, if you fill the floor slab, the resulting monolith will evenly distribute the load on the walls and protect against the formation of cracks. Therefore, there is no need to construct an armored belt when doing work with your own hands.
How to reinforce monolithic floors? To do this, it is necessary to use steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm. For reliability, the concrete is reinforced with two meshes: one is located at the bottom of the platform being poured, the other at the top. The reinforcement frame should have a cell width of either 15 or 20 cm. For small buildings, a mesh with a cell of 20*20 cm will be quite sufficient.
If the length of the reinforcement bars is not enough to completely cover the entire distance of the floor, then the rods should be overlapped by 40 cm. It is also desirable that each subsequent row have a reinforcement joint at the other end of the floor. After laying all the reinforcement, it must be tied using tying wire.
The mesh should extend onto the walls of the building by at least 15 cm (if the walls are brick) or 25 cm (for walls made of aerated concrete). Since when pouring the slab on your own, no reinforced belt is provided, it is very important that the reinforcement extends onto the walls. The lower mesh must be raised 2-2.5 cm above the lower level of the ceiling. The upper mesh is located at the same distance from the top of the platform to be poured.
When preparing the site for pouring concrete, it is important not to forget about cavities for laying wiring and communications.
Upon completion of work with slab reinforcement, concreting of the floor follows.
Pouring concrete
For concreting the slab, it is best to use concrete ordered at the factory. This will help save time and effort, and also ensure the uniformity of the partition and increase its strength. If the ceiling is poured quickly and evenly enough, and this is achieved with the help of a concrete pump, the solution does not begin to harden early and thanks to this the ceiling can rightfully be called monolithic.
You also need to use a deep vibrator to compact concrete. It must be applied until the concrete stops settling and the release of air bubbles stops.
In order to completely fill all the cracks, before filling the floor with concrete, first fill it with a pour. It is done in a thin and slightly liquid layer. When this layer is compacted and evenly distributed, you can begin pouring the main layer.
Features during operation
Some advise not to fill to the 2 centimeter edge, and then after a few days, when the concrete has set, use beacons to fill the remaining space with liquid mortar. This will allow you to achieve evenness and smoothness of the interfloor overlap. Self-leveling floors can also be used for these purposes.
If the floor slab is made by hand in winter, then the concrete must contain anti-frost additives. However, it is worth remembering that they influence the time it takes for concrete to gain strength. Therefore, the best time to pour a floor slab yourself is definitely the warm season.
Concrete hardening process
After the floor is filled with concrete, it cannot be said that all the work is finished and you can just wait for the slab to gain its strength. The process of solidification of the solution is inextricably linked with the evaporation of moisture, and this leads to the appearance of cracks in the concrete. In view of this, during the first time after pouring, you need to regularly water it with water. In this case, it is best to use a hose with water, because lifting bucket after bucket to the height of the second floor is a thankless task.
If the concrete dries in hot weather, watering it with water will not be enough; you need to cover the slab with polyethylene.
After the concrete has hardened, all formwork must be removed. Care should be taken to ensure that this process is not so difficult at the stage of installation of the structure. If all the boards have been covered with polyethylene, they can be used in the future.
As you can see, if desired, floor slabs can be made with your own hands. And although this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming, the resulting strength of the slab is worth the effort.
Comments:
Before you make a concrete floor with your own hands, you need to prepare the following list of materials and tools.
- plywood or board at least 40 mm thick;
- board or beam;
- racks or supports made of pipes or channels;
- reinforcing bars;
- knitting wire;
- protective stands for fittings;
- level, level;
- Bulgarian;
- cement;
- crushed stone;
- sand;
- concrete mixer;
- pump or tap for pouring concrete.
It is the concrete floor that is considered the most reliable, since it is a monolithic slab of reinforced concrete with mandatory reinforcement.
Do-it-yourself formwork for the ceiling
For a monolithic concrete floor, formwork is made by covering the horizontal surface with moisture-resistant plywood.
Plywood or boards of similar diameter are installed on the beams supporting them, laid horizontally on supports. These supports or racks for beams and formwork can be found in finished form called telescopic or assembled yourself from timber, angles, or pipes.
In order for the proportion of materials taken to be correct, it is necessary to calculate the area of the future floor and its volume. The volume or thickness depends on the span area and the load experienced during the process. In order to withstand the weight of reinforced concrete for a long time, the formwork must be strong and not deform. Therefore, plywood or boards for manufacturing are taken that are quite strong and thick.
To determine at what height from the floor the formwork will be installed, you need to measure the perimeter of the span horizontally with a level to the height that corresponds to the bottom of the planned self-leveling floor. The most convenient way to do this is to use a construction laser level or level.
If telescopic racks are used, then you should first install them at the edges, and then longitudinal beams are placed on top of them, the gap between which should be 2 m. Only then should all racks located in the middle of the room be installed, both with and without tripods . The distance between these racks will depend on their power and the planned thickness of the floors. Averaged calculations lead to calculations that one rack must support each m³ of floor being poured.
If homemade racks are used, it is necessary to adjust their length to the height at which the bottom of the first layer of beams will be installed. The distance between such racks should be at least 1 m³; they should be installed on a flat, solid floor. Next, a transverse beam is laid along the longitudinal beam, the laying step is approximately 0.5 m, and the formwork sheets are laid on them. The upper plane of the resulting structure is checked with a level, since it must be strictly horizontal.
If boards are used instead of plywood for formwork, they are adjusted one to another, and a moisture-proof material is laid on top. Along the perimeter, the formwork must be fenced with a side of the same height, which corresponds to the thickness of the concrete layer. It must be connected at the corners securely so that it does not collapse due to the solution.
Return to contents
Floor reinforcement scheme: 1 – main mesh; 2 – additional reinforcement of the main grid; 3 – U-shaped reinforcements of the edges of the slab; 4 – L-shaped reinforcement of the corners of the slab; 5 – load-bearing walls.
When the formwork is ready, you need to prepare a reinforcement cage, consisting of reinforcement in 1 or 2 layers per formwork. For a single-layer frame, reinforcement of a larger diameter is used. Reinforcing cages with cells 20x20 cm are laid, the initial row is laid out on a special protection, which is necessary for uniform penetration of concrete under the reinforcement. The height to the side should be 20-25 mm. If two pieces of reinforcement need to be spliced, the overlap should be at least 70-80 cm.
To ensure that the proportion is maintained, a second row is placed on top of the first row of reinforcement with the same step of 20 cm, only perpendicularly. The reinforcement at the intersection points is tied with soft steel wire with a special hook for knitting reinforcement. If the frame is made of two layers, then special supports-chairs made from pieces of reinforcement are laid out on the first row and then tied, and the second layer is laid out on them in the same way as the first. The distance between layers should be at least 2.5-3 cm.
If boards are used instead of plywood for formwork, they are adjusted one to another, and a moisture-proof material is laid on top. Along the perimeter, the formwork must be fenced with a side of the same height, which corresponds to the thickness of the concrete layer. It must be connected at the corners securely so that it does not collapse due to the solution.
Do-it-yourself pouring of floors
Before making a concrete floor, it is necessary to prepare the concrete. It can be taken ready-made or made with your own hands. To make it, a concrete mixer is used and the correct ratio of ingredients is required. Concrete can be poured in buckets or using a concrete pump, as well as a special tap. The method depends on the height of the floor and the volume of concrete that needs to be laid on the formwork. It is recommended to treat the formwork boards with special formwork oil immediately before pouring concrete to make it easier to remove the formwork later. If polyethylene is already spread over the formwork, this is sufficient and no additional preparation is required.
The concrete is poured all in one go, the total work time should not exceed 3 hours. After completing the work, be sure to level the concrete using a special squeegee mop so that the concrete is distributed evenly above and below. Density
It is important to install the interfloor ceiling with your own hands correctly, using construction technology step by step. It is necessary to delve into all the details of the construction of buildings.
At the first stage, it is important to determine the thickness of the main load-bearing walls of the first and second floors; the thickness of the future floor will depend on this. According to the standard for houses made of brick or aerated concrete, the interfloor ceiling can be installed from 15 to 20 cm; in houses made of more fragile materials, the thickness is reduced. Interfloor technology depends on the selected materials, the height of the future structure and the weight of the entire structure.
Formation and installation of formwork
start with formwork formation. It is installed between floors and is designed to securely secure cross beams. If you have old wooden boards, it would be appropriate to use them. Having initially formed the covering from the boards, it is necessary to install a support. Stable logs are often used. A layer of waterproof plywood is laid on top of the formed structure. Next, the quality of the structure is checked for sagging. When eliminating defects and bends, they must be corrected immediately. In the future, the structure must be stable, able to withstand the additional load of furniture, distributing the load.
The interfloor covering device is divided into several main types:
- Reinforced concrete;
- Monolithic;
- Prefabricated;
Do-it-yourself reinforced concrete interfloor slabs are popular in buildings made of stone and brick. A special feature of the design is the laying of hollow panels. When seams are formed, they are completely filled with mortar. The disadvantage of forming reinforced concrete type floors is the massive weight and the need to use lifting equipment. In addition, the slabs have a standard size. If the perimeter of the house differs from the standard design, it will be difficult to correctly install the support of each slab.
Do-it-yourself wooden interfloor ceiling erected if you want to save money and time on construction. At the same time, it is important to correctly determine the type of ceiling and the ability to carry out installation without the involvement of additional equipment, renting forklifts and a team of specialists.
Monolithic ceiling. Main characteristics
Interfloor covering arrangement monolithic type represents a homogeneous solid structure, the mass of which is distributed onto load-bearing walls. The use of a monolith has an undeniable advantage in that there is no need to use construction equipment. This coating is effective in that it makes it possible to implement modern architectural solutions created by yourself without additional costs. Before starting installation, it is advised to prepare construction beams that will serve as support. The steel surfaces of the beams are installed on wooden partitions.
Typical formwork includes the following elements:
- Special telescopic type stands;
- Holding tripods;
- Flooring;
- Basic moisture-resistant plywood;
- Frame and fittings.
The nuances of laying reinforcement with your own hands
Installation of interfloor ceilings carried out whenever possible without touching the surface of the formwork. The dimensions of the fittings range from 6 to 12 mm. At the same time, the structure is secured with certain clamps. The formed frame leaves cells of 10*10 cm. Wire is used to tightly bind the frame to the cells. Beams can be used in various types from wood to aluminum. Next, the entire surface of the layer is densely filled with mortar, forming a homogeneous surface. The disadvantage of forming a reinforced floor is the formation of beams along the entire perimeter of the structure at minimal distances.
It is quite difficult to completely fill the ceiling with your own hands. The main nuance is to carry out the filling layer no more than 10-12 hours from the previous one. To create a uniform layer, the solution should not be allowed to dry completely. The technology of interfloor slabs makes it possible to obtain reliable adhesion of the monolith to the surface of the floor and mortar, holding the entire structure together. This method of creating a ceiling with your own hands is the most reliable, safe and easy to install. Complete hardening of the entire layer occurs no earlier than 28 days from the moment of the last pouring. Uneven drying leads to subsequent destruction of the surface, the formation of chips, cracks and additional dust. If it is necessary to eliminate the resulting defects, it is important to simultaneously fill the entire surface with a small amount of water and leave until completely dry.
Prefabricated monolithic type floors and their differences
The prefabricated monolithic type of flooring is the most relevant and in demand in the cottage-type construction market. The combination of support beams on one side and hollow blocks on the other has many advantages. The structure of the interfloor floor beams must be evenly filled with concrete and the interfloor structure is ready. The weight of a typical design is quite low and amounts to no more than 19 kg per square meter. In terms of time, it is somewhat more difficult to produce a prefabricated monolithic floor, but you do not need to rent lifting equipment and all stages can be carried out independently. The entire structure is reinforced with wire no more than 6 mm in diameter.
Removal of formwork and installation of interfloor ceilings
When installing the main floors, the formwork is removed. Removal of the side surfaces is permitted when the main floor has completely hardened and formed a solid structure. It is necessary to carefully check the entire surface from all sides.
The strength of a concrete structure is determined by the following indicators:
- Load-bearing elements whose span is less than 2 meters account for 50%.
- Slabs with a span of 6 meters or more – 70%.
- Reinforced types of structures no more than 25%.
How to determine the strength of hardened concrete of an installed interfloor slab?
The concrete surface increases the strength of the coating from the moment the last layer is poured over time:
- 3rd day strength is about 30%.
- Day 7 increases to 60%.
- Day 14 is 80% or more.
- Day 28 is around 100%.
- Day 90 increases by 30%.
The duration of hardening of the concrete floor depends on the air temperature and the level of ambient humidity. There are special additives that help speed up the hardening process of concrete on the surface of the floor.
Installation of interfloor ceilings can be labor-intensive; if difficulties arise, InnovaStroy specialists recommend contacting experienced craftsmen.
Do-it-yourself wooden interfloor ceiling
The wooden ceiling structure is responsible for the formation of a stable floor covering on the upper floor and a smooth, reliable ceiling on the lower floor. The main mass is taken up by the load-bearing walls of the building. The installation of wooden interfloor slabs is the most popular and in demand in the modern construction of country houses. Due to the ease of construction, the quality of the resulting flooring, environmentally friendly materials and economical costs. Wooden bars tightly connect the building elements, exerting a horizontal load on all the main supporting walls.
Advantages of installing wooden floors
- Increased level of thermal insulation;
- Preservation of the acoustic properties of the room (if necessary);
- Simplicity and ease of installation with your own hands;
- Carrying out work in any weather conditions;
- Use of any type of ceiling: basement, interfloor, attic, attic.
When using wooden floors in areas prone to moisture accumulation (bathroom, basement, pool area, baths, etc.), it is recommended to use an additional level of waterproofing material.
General characteristics and construction of wooden interfloor slabs
Installation of interfloor slabs using wooden beams requires attention to the possibility of bearing weight. The own weight of the wooden covering is about 250 kg, while the weight of the additional load is taken into account at least 200 kg.
When choosing beam sizes, you must clearly determine:
- Beam thickness (standard: at least 5 cm);
- Height 15 cm or more;
- When laying wooden beams at intervals of 50 meters or more, it is necessary to use mineral-type insulating material.
List of necessary tools for installing ceilings with your own hands:
- Availability of anchor bolts;
- Keys;
- Staples;
- Hammer;
- Screwdriver;
- Keys;
- Strong rope;
- Nails;
- Wood hacksaw;
- Roulette;
- Axe;
- Rigid construction cord.
Having mastered the stages of technology and the necessary tools, the installation of interfloor slabs is quite easy. Installation of wooden slabs begins with the laying of timber. Professionals advise using a glued type with a length of 12 meters or more.
Differences between wooden ceilings:
- Used when creating individual design of cottages .
- The cross-section of the material used depends on the width of the opening and the weight of the future structure, the ability to support the load of the building’s foundation.
- When purchasing material for the formation of interfloor ceilings, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the timber. Additional drying for more than 4 months and antiseptic treatment will preserve the original quality for a long time.
- If wood becomes suppurated, chips or cracks form, timber should not be used!
- All dimensions must be checked and adjusted to the required ones. The use of beams and bars of different levels is not recommended.
- The fire safety of wood flooring requires additional processing to create a stable exposure to open fire.
Sometimes craftsmen recommend using roughing bars, which are installed on the edge of the beam elements. Next, a roll is formed and a dense rough coating is formed. Ventilation arrangement also plays a significant role in creating a cozy interfloor ceiling. Free circulation of air flows between floors allows you to maintain a comfortable climate inside the building.
The InnovaStroy company specializes in the construction of turnkey houses according to individual orders. High-quality interfloor coverings are the main task of creating comfortable multi-level housing.
Do-it-yourself video of existing types of interfloor ceilings, offered for viewing by the InnovaStroy company.