Who has a desire to enjoy sweet and juicy melons and watermelons? These fruits will become even tastier if you grow them yourself. But not all amateurs, and especially novice melon growers, manage to achieve glorious harvests. They are often dissatisfied with damaged and thinned seedlings. To avoid many mistakes, you should listen to the advice of experienced farmers.
In Ukraine and southern Russia, planting of watermelons and melons usually begins by the end of April and ends by the first ten days of May. Usually by this time dry winds begin to blow, and the upper layers of the soil have already dried well. Let us pay attention to the peculiarities of planting these crops. The most common and simplest method is manual. This is a very interesting process.
Planting watermelons and melons
Before digging a hole, you need to rake the top dry layer of soil and deepen the blade of the glander at a certain angle into the moist soil. The hole is made so that one of its edges goes 10 cm deep, and the second is at the same level with the soil surface. The bottom of the hole should be no more than 30 cm in length, and the width should be from 5 to 8 cm. From the excavated soil, you need to make a mound with north side holes and save it until the next weeding to get better soil heating.
A handful of complex fertilizers or mixed simple ones are poured into the prepared hole. Fertilizers are mixed with the soil. After this, from 7 to 10 seeds are placed evenly, from shallow to deep edges, or more is possible. Next, the seeds are covered with a layer of moistened soil (two or three centimeters) and trampled down with a foot or compacted with the palm of the hand. Another six to seven centimeters of moistened soil are poured on top of the trampled layer, and then the ground is completely leveled. Do not press down too tightly, this will make it difficult for sprouts to appear. Planting a watermelon in open ground happens using the same method.
Planting watermelons in the Urals
A seasonal crop such as watermelon is grown in different places Russia, and the Urals are no exception. You should pay attention to the fact that watermelons love warmth and grow best in southern sunny places.
To begin with, let's take into account that not all varieties are suitable for this, but only early ripening ones, because there are not enough warm days there, and even fewer hot ones. For varieties such as "Ogonyok", "Sugar Baby" and "Skorik" the ripening time is no more than 70 days. During this time, even in the Ural climate, watermelons have time to grow and ripen.
Before planting, the seeds must be warmed up. Envelopes with seeds should be laid out in a fairly warm place for up to a week. The most suitable period for landing is in last days April.
Planting watermelons and melons works best in a greenhouse or greenhouse. The sequence is the same as in normal conditions. You should make holes and plant several seeds in each. The depth to which the seeds are sown is from 1 to 1.5 centimeters. After planting, the hole must be watered. As weeds appear, they should be removed.
Trick one: double cover
With this method, watermelons and melons are sown in open ground to a depth of 3-4 cm: watermelons 1.5–2 m apart, melons 1–1.2 m apart. There are 2–3 seeds in each treasure. But they do this not at the end of May, as is usually recommended, but in the first half - then they will have enough time to fully ripen. Someone will say: there is still half a month of frost ahead, the seedlings will die! And here is the main trick - young plants need to be covered. And in an unusual way.
First, the crops are covered with a liter plastic bottle with a cut bottom. The bottom is covered with sand and watered through the neck warm water(45-50oC). A second, five-liter bottle, also without a bottom, is placed on top of the first bottle. It turns out to be a kind of nesting doll in which heat is perfectly retained.
When the plants have their first true leaf, the strongest of the three seedlings is left in each hole. After thinning, the plants are watered abundantly and covered, but now only with five-liter bottles. And don’t rush to remove them at the beginning of June - let the watermelons and melons warm up under plastic covers until June 15-20.
Trick two: a place in the sun
Ideally, the soil in the area for watermelons and melons will be light and sandy. But this is not the most important thing. It is important that the melon gets plenty of sun. So there should be no trees or bushes nearby.
But when the fruits begin to ripen, they need to be shaded so that they do not bake in the sun. Burdock leaves or newspaper are suitable for this - they are placed on top of watermelons and melons on hot days.
Trick three: plank under the side
Another problem with melons and melons in cool conditions is rot. Due to dampness, both fruits and even shoots rot. And to avoid this, you need to put a board under each melon and watermelon so that they do not come into contact with the soil. Place 2-3 handfuls of sand at the root collar.
Trick four: watering aside
In melons and melons, the roots go deep into the soil - in hot and dry conditions, this is how they get water. But in northern regions, Where groundwater often very close, long roots play a cruel joke - when they reach the aquifer, they rot.
Therefore, it is important to make the roots grow not deeper, but wider. This is easy to do - you need to water the plants not at the roots, but along the furrows that are made in the middle between the rows.
However, it is important not to overdo it with watering - it is only needed in very hot weather. And the next day, the soil must be loosened and mulched so that there is no soil crust.
Trick five: trimming lashes
A large number of fruits in cool conditions short summer they still won’t have time to ripen, and the bush will waste energy on them to the detriment of the rest of the harvest. So you should leave no more than 5-6 watermelons or melons on each plant.
At the watermelons female flowers are formed on the main lash, so it is not touched, but the side ones are cut out. In melons, on the contrary, the main vine is cut off above 5-6 leaves.
With this method of growing melons, the harvest can be harvested at the end of August.
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The ability to grow non-traditional crops for a particular zone has always been considered an indicator of the highest skill of a gardener or vegetable grower. Today it’s not often garden plots In Moscow, Vladimir, Smolensk and other regions of the Non-Black Earth Region you can find cherries, apricots, and grapes. In particular harsh winters(as, for example, this year) even modern winter-hardy varieties, and all the gardener’s efforts are in vain. With “exotic” vegetable and melon crops the situation is a little simpler: this annual plants, which are much easier to create favorable conditions for growth. However, watermelon and melon are not often found on the plots.
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Nowadays thanks to detailed study biology of heat-loving crops, development of technology for their cultivation, creation cold-resistant varieties with more short period During the growing season (early and mid-early), almost anyone can grow watermelon and melon, for example, in the Moscow region.
We offer practical recommendations, which will help you get a harvest of watermelon and melon even in conditions middle zone, to the envy of all neighbors. The only thing that I would like to immediately draw your attention to is the need to fulfill all the points of the technology given below (of course, their modification and adaptation to specific conditions is possible). If circumstances do not yet allow you to do something (for example, grow seedlings or build a film shelter), then it is better to hold off on growing these crops.
OPTIMAL CONDITIONS
Watermelon and melon are light- and heat-loving crops. Seeds germinate at a temperature not lower than 17ºС, the optimal temperature is 25...35ºС. To grow they need 25...30ºС during the day, 18ºС at night. Both watermelon and melon are drought-resistant and react negatively to high relative humidity air, which contributes to the development of fungal diseases.
Optimal air humidity – 60–70%. As you can see, watermelon and melon have high demands on air and soil temperatures and the length of the growing season. It is these factors that are limiting in central Russia. The secret to success in growing these heat-loving crops is right choice varieties and provision of necessary agricultural technology.
VARIETIES FOR THE MIDDLE BAND
Particular attention must be paid to the selection of varieties. Only suitable for growing in central Russia early ripening varieties watermelon and melon. No need to chase varieties with large fruits, they can realize their potential only in favorable conditions, on South. In the description of the variety, you need to pay attention to number of days from fruit set to ripening(it is important that the resulting ovaries grow and mature quickly). It is better to give preference to varieties that have time to ripen in the middle zone and at the same time have quite tasty sweet fruits.
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Watermelon FI Pink champagne. The juiciest, most delicious, brightest watermelon of the “Yummy” series. |
Such qualities as transportability and large-fruitedness can be neglected. Also don't pay attention special attention on the shape of the fruit and its color (these qualities are important when sold on the market).
Recommended watermelon varieties for the middle zone: F1 Gift to the North,F1 Pink champagne,F1 Krimstar,F1 Charleston near Moscow. Among all the varieties and hybrids of melon, one of the best for the middle zone is Cinderella, which ripens every year and has quite sweet fruits.
GROWING SEEDLINGS
In the middle zone, watermelon and melon can only be grown through seedlings, and the future harvest largely depends on its quality.
As with all pumpkin plants, the growing period for watermelon and melon seedlings is short – 30–35 days.
Seedlings are grown only in pots to avoid damage to the root system during planting. Pots with a diameter of 10 cm are used; 2 plants can be grown in them. Before sowing, the seeds can be soaked or germinated, which will shorten the germination period. To obtain good friendly shoots, it is necessary to ensure sufficient high temperature, at the level of 27...30ºС.
The temperature regime for growing seedlings is 20...25ºС during the day (depending on the weather, on cloudy days the temperature is slightly reduced to prevent the plants from stretching), 18...20ºС at night. Since seeds for seedlings are sown quite late (approximately mid-April), there is no need to additionally illuminate the plants. However, the seedlings need to be given the sunniest place in the apartment, preferably south-facing windows. The quality of the seedlings will be higher if they grow on a glazed and insulated balcony or loggia (in this case, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature is optimal).
During the period of growing seedlings, 2 complex feedings are carried out mineral fertilizers. Great importance has an arrangement of plants: it is desirable that they do not touch the leaves, so the pots must be moved apart periodically. Seedlings ready for planting should have 3–5 true leaves.
About a week before planting, the seedlings are hardened off. Daytime temperature is reduced to 15...17ºС, night temperature – to 12...15ºС, ventilation of plants is increased.
There is one difference in growing watermelon and melon seedlings. The fact is that watermelon plants form female flowers, from which fruits subsequently develop, both on the main stem and on the side ones. But on melon plants, female flowers on the side shoots form earlier than on the main shoot. It is this feature that determines such an operation as pinching the tops of melon plants over 3–5 sheets. As a rule, it is carried out during the seedling period.
GROWING CONDITIONS
In the middle zone, watermelon and melon can only be grown in a greenhouse or under temporary film cover.
Greenhouse
It can be of any shape and area, the main thing is that its height is at least 170–200 cm (watermelon and melon are grown in a greenhouse with the plants tied to a trellis). As a rule, solar-heated greenhouses are used.
Of course, most vegetable growers will not occupy their entire greenhouse with watermelon and melon; they usually grow peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, and cucumbers in it. In this case, watermelon and melon seedlings are planted in a greenhouse with the main crop.
Some vegetable growers have 2 greenhouses on their property: in one they plant nightshade crops (tomato, pepper, eggplant), in the other - cucumber. This approach is absolutely correct, since the requirements of tomato and cucumber for growing conditions are different. In this case, it is better to plant the watermelon and melon in a greenhouse with tomatoes, where more low humidity air.
Greenhouses are prepared according to standard scheme. At the end of March–beginning of April, the snow is cleared and covered with film. After the soil thaws, cold-resistant early-ripening crops are sown. Upon completion of their harvesting, seedlings of heat-loving crops, including watermelon and melon, are planted. During cultivation green crops The greenhouse soil warms up well. It must be remembered that in a greenhouse, watermelon and melon grow to a trellis (plant height is approximately 2 m). Therefore, if these crops are grown together with pepper, tomato or eggplant, then it is better to plant them near the northern wall (otherwise they will shade the main crop).
Temporary film shelter
The easiest way to grow watermelon and melon is to use temporary film covers. Their design and covering material may be different, but the width and height should be approximately 70 cm. The timing and procedure for preparing shelters are the same as for film greenhouses.
Since watermelon and melon are heat-loving crops, you cannot rush to plant seedlings. In some years, in central Russia, quite warm weather sets in by the end of April–beginning of May (daytime temperatures reach 15...20ºС, night temperatures – 5...10ºС). Under the film on such days the temperature rises above 30ºС. At this time, inexperienced vegetable growers begin to plant heat-loving crops under film. However, often by mid-May the weather worsens, sometimes frosts occur. And if a tomato, for example, can withstand even a long cold snap (but without frost), then watermelon and melon can die under these conditions. Therefore, as many years of practice have shown, seedlings of these heat-loving crops can only be planted under film. May 15–20(Before disembarking, it is better to check the long-term weather forecast).
If, some time after disembarkation, a cold snap occurs, then the film shelters should be covered at night. old film, paper, rags, etc. (the second layer of film can be left for a day). IN film greenhouse When it gets cold, simple frames are additionally installed over the plants and covered with various auxiliary materials.
Landing technique
Watermelon and melon seedlings are planted in a greenhouse according to a pattern of approximately 70x50cm. In film shelters, plants are placed in 1 row in the center of the shelter with a distance of 50 cm between them.
When grown in a film shelter, 2 plants can be planted in 1 hole, then directing them in opposite directions.
Before planting, it is advisable to add 1.5–2 kg of humus or compost to each hole and water it well with warm water. Seedlings are planted in the resulting slurry, pouring dry soil into the hole from the sides so that a crust does not form. If the seedlings grew in peat pots, then they are planted together with the pot; if in plastic, carefully remove the plant from the pot, trying not to damage the lump. When planting, seedlings should never be buried; on the contrary, the seedling ball should protrude 1–2 cm above the surface of the bed (if buried, the subcotyledon may rot).
If seedlings are planted under a film cover, then immediately after planting it is covered with film.
PLANT CARE
As a rule, in 1 week after planting, no care is required for the plants, except for ventilation in sunny warm weather. It is necessary to ventilate when the temperature rises above 30ºС. To do this, open the greenhouse windows, or roll up the film at the ends of the film cover.
About a week later, after the soil has dried, the plants are watered with warm water, combining it with fertilizing. nitrogen fertilizers(20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water; 2 liters of solution per well). Water very carefully, trying not to wet the subcotyledon of the plants and leaves. IN further care behind plants in a greenhouse and under a film cover is slightly different. Let's consider them separately.
In the greenhouse
Approximately 7–10 days after planting, the plants are tied up. The garter system is similar to that used when growing cucumbers.
Watermelon plants are grown into 1 stem. Side shoots formed in the axils of the leaves are dealt with as follows: shoots that do not have ovaries are removed; shoots with set fruits are pinched, leaving 2–3 leaves above the ovary. When the plant reaches the trellis, it is pinched.
It must be remembered that with the formation of 2, maximum 3 fruits approximately the size of egg, all other ovaries are removed, since the plant will not be able to form morethe number of fruits, and they will not have time to ripen.
Melon plants are tied as follows. After pinching the top of the plant during the seedling period, several side shoots are formed. You need to select 1-2 of the strongest ones and lead them as the main one (tying each to a trellis), and remove the rest. In the future, the formation is the same as that of a watermelon.
In addition to the formation of plants, watering is carried out approximately once a week; During fruit ripening, watering is reduced. In addition to the first fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (about a week after planting), at least 2 more fertilizings are carried out complex fertilizers at intervals of approximately 2–3 weeks.
Sometimes one of the fruits begins to grow rapidly, and the rest turn yellow - this indicates insufficient nutrition of the plants.
When growing in a greenhouse, you need to pay attention to the pollination of plants. As a rule, insects fly into the greenhouse through open windows, but if pollination does not occur, then it needs to be carried out artificially (transfer pollen from male flower on the stigma of a female flower).
One of important points when growing watermelon and melon in a greenhouse - fruit garter. Typically, the ovaries, which have grown to the size of a large apple, are placed in the middle of a square piece of mesh, the edges of which are tied and tied with twine to a trellis ( see photo). Each fruit is tied in this way.
Under film cover
The film on the shelters is not removed until approximately mid-to-late June (depending on weather conditions). By this time, the plants begin to bloom, and insect access is necessary for pollination.
After the film is completely removed, the bed is weeded and loosened. The shoots are evenly distributed over the surface of the bed. As in a greenhouse, after the formation of 1-3 fruits on each plant, periodically remove all other ovaries and pinch the tops so that the plant uses all its strength to fill the fruits. Side shoots those that do not bear fruit are cut out so that the plants are better illuminated. Fertilizing is carried out in the same way as when growing in a greenhouse. In open ground, it is advisable to place planks under the ovaries so that the growing fruits do not rot.
HARVEST
The last one, no less important stage growing watermelon and melon - harvesting the fruits. Under no circumstances should you rush into harvesting; often even fruits that have reached impressive sizes are unripe.
Crows love to feast on saturated fruits, especially during hot and dry summer. Therefore, in the garden with melons and watermelons, you need to install scarecrows in a timely manner. Determining the ripeness of melon fruits is relatively simple: they acquire a characteristic color and begin to exude the aroma of ripe melon. The ripeness of watermelon fruits is much more difficult to determine, especially for an inexperienced person. You need to focus on the following signs: the pattern of the bark becomes clearer and brighter, the waxy coating weakens, and when tapped, the fruits make a dull sound.
V.A.Vasilevsky, Ph.D. agricultural sciences
Crop rotation table
When planning future crops, you must first take into account order of crop rotation. This is very important for the future harvest. After all correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. And vice versa, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply nutrients the beds are depleted and soil infections accumulate.
Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get more high yields. In order not to get confused in the “five hundred square meters”, it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and rough plan landings on next year, observing correct order rotation of vegetable crops.
Cabbage
It is forbidden plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place sooner than in 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; landing allowed after beans, peas, carrots and beets.
Potato
The best predecessors for potatoesla - cabbage and various root vegetables. Bad predecessor for potatoes - tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens.Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.
cucumbers
For cucumbers, you should look for new ones every year.oh place. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
Tomatoes
According to the rules of agricultural technology, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes, since - we repeat - the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes - cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable.
If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every fall for deep digging of soil need to be paid fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), since tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).
Beet
Growing beets at one place should be carried out no more often than once every three to four years. Beetroot grows well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. Undesirable Plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach, beets again).
Onion
You can’t put onions in one place plant more three to four years contract.The best predecessors of onions are crops to which large doses were applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. Onions will not produce on heavy clay soils. good harvest, he prefers light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.
Garlic
Grow garlic in one place Can no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided.
It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions).
Carrot
Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
Eggplant
The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
Strawberries
The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radishes, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil best predecessors strawberries - mustard, phacelia (also known as honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
Strawberry
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of ranunculaceae.
Together is better
Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested one more correct solution — joint plantings. This is both convenient and allows you to small area get a large assortment of vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.
Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, and onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions repels the carrot fly).
Bulb onions goes well with beets, chicory, and carrots.
Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon.
TO potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn,
To cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from proximity to watercress, and peas - with leaf mustard.
It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other.
You can make the following bed:
plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.
As for the undesirable neighborhood, then can't be planted next to each other potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin.
If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.
In addition, if space permits,highlight small plot for growing green manure herbs:
clover, lupine, alfalfa and others.
In this way, you will give the earth a rest and gain strength for growing vegetable crops.
As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge.
Plants are heat-loving. They come from the pumpkin family, watermelon comes from South Africa, melon comes from Central and Asia Minor. Watermelon requires a warm climate. In Russia it grows in southern regions, he is comfortable in Ukraine too. IN last years growing melon and watermelon has become possible in more complex climatic conditions: in the Moscow region, the Baltic states and Siberia. If earlier in these areas watermelons grew in greenhouses and greenhouses, then in recent years they have ripened in open ground. Watermelon and melon are tamed in climates unsuitable for them not out of sporting interest. The taste and aroma of watermelons or melons taken from their garden cannot be compared with those brought here for sale. Yes, and in products grown on own garden, you can be sure: there are no nitrates there.
Growing melon and watermelon in temperate climate can be produced in different ways.
1. Select melon and watermelon seeds. We can take care of this in the summer when we buy watermelons and melons. If you like the taste, leave the seeds. Watermelons and melons should be ripe, and watermelon seeds and melon seeds should be small. But in the first year, watermelons and melons grown from such seeds will undergo acclimatization. Therefore, it is better to buy ready-made seeds. The Siberian Series is good for central Russia.
2. Plant the seeds. In warmer climates, watermelon and melon seeds are sown directly into open ground. In our area this is an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, in mid-April you need to prepare the seedlings. Soak melon or watermelon seeds in water this way. In a container with boiled water you need to mash the aloe leaf (the volume of water should be about 5 times the volume of the leaf), lower the seeds for 6 hours.
During this time we prepare the land. For watermelon and melon seedlings, it is better to take a “Microgreenhouse” or soil with humus/compost from your garden. We heat the earth in the oven or in a frying pan. Pour drainage into the bottom of the glass.
Then we fill in the soil.
Add superphosphate and water with snow or settled water. We lower the seeds, press them down, sprinkle them with 2 cm of soil, and cover them with glass or polyethylene.
3. We grow seedlings. We plant 2 seeds in one glass: one may not sprout. If both have sprouted, the weaker one must be cut off (you cannot pull it out so as not to damage the roots of the remaining plant).
After 3-4 days, the sprouts should emerge. We remove the film and place it on the windowsill on the sunny side.
4. Plant in open ground. Of course, melons and watermelons love the sun very much, so you need to choose an appropriate place for them. They thrive ideally in slightly alkaline soil. Attention! All pumpkin plants should absolutely not be picked when transplanting!
By the end of May, the seedlings should have 3-4 true leaves. It can be planted only when the earth has warmed up well - approximately at the end of May (the weather is different every year). Choose a sunny place without shade. We dig a hole, the depth of a spade, add humus to it, carefully so as not to damage the roots, plant the plant, water it. The distance between rows is 70 cm, between plants - 1 meter. We cover the planted plants with five-liter plastic jars (cut off the bottom and cover).
Watermelons and melons will send out long branches, so we immediately plant them at a large distance: between rows - at least 70 cm, between plants in a row - not less than a meter. If the sun is scorching during the day, it is better to install arcs and stretch them with covering material. The film burns the leaves, it is better to use lutrasil.
5. Features of care. You need to water so that water does not get on the leaves and only when upper layer the soil will dry out. It's better to feed natural fertilizers(humus, compost). The first time - 10-12 days after planting. Don't forget to periodically loosen the soil where melons and watermelons grow. The second feeding is after the appearance of the ovary. One plant sends out several branches, each of them bears several watermelons or melons.