Despite the huge number of ways to obtain heat using natural resources, homeowners are increasingly turning to using electric heating units to heat their homes.
Boiler systems using electricity are environmentally friendly, since combustion products that appear when burning petroleum products, gas, coal and even firewood are not released into the atmosphere.
Vortex heater
Another plus use of electric heating is the ease of maintenance of heating systems, mounted on the basis of electric boilers. However, the convenience of using electricity for home heating is becoming an increasingly expensive way to obtain heat in the home - paying the bill for electricity consumption with each heating season becomes unaffordable for many.
Home owners are beginning to look for an alternative to electric boilers, the design of which is based on a standard heating element.
Induction electric boilers are gradually gaining popularity, also converting electricity into heat necessary for heating rooms. However their design makes it possible to use energy much more economically, which significantly reduces the current costs of maintaining the house during the heating season.
Energy savings occur due to the rapid heating of the heating system coolant. This happens thanks to an induction device that replaced the traditional heating element in the boiler.
In addition to reducing heating costs, these boilers have a significant number of advantages over other electric boilers - high efficiency, long service life (at least 25 years) and no scale.
The internal structure of an induction heater and its operating principle
The design of such a device, created to generate heat energy, is in its simplest form similar to a transformer. Like a transformer, the induction generator consists of short-circuited windings - primary and secondary.
Primary winding serves to convert electricity into eddy currents, creating an electromagnetic field directed to the secondary winding. Secondary winding at the same time it is both the inductor body and the heating element that transfers the received energy to the heating system. The coolant can be any electrically conductive liquid, from ordinary process water to oil and antifreeze.
Since a vortex induction heater (or simply a heater) does not emit fuel decomposition products during operation, it is the safest among various types of heating equipment used to provide heat to buildings for various purposes. Such a heating system guarantees a favorable composition of the atmosphere, which means maintaining its environmental purity.
Heating system starts working immediately after voltage is applied to the internal winding. The resulting electromagnetic field directs eddy currents to the surface of the core located outside.
Their density increases almost instantly, heating the surface of the core, and then the entire element. This heat serves to heat the coolant circulating in the boiler.
Why is it needed for a heating system? Types of device and principle of its operation.
Is it worth installing a thermostat on a heating radiator? product?
It should be borne in mind that the device fits into the heating system using two pipes. The lower one serves to supply cooled coolant. It is mounted at the entrance to the boiler, and through the second pipe the heated coolant is directed into the heating system.
The supply of heated coolant is carried out due to hydrostatic pressure. Since the coolant constantly circulates in the system, removing hot liquid into the heating system, then the possibility of equipment overheating is completely excluded.
Features of boiler installation installation and operation
To ensure continuous circulation of the coolant, the heating system equipped with an induction electric boiler must be closed and must be equipped with a circulation pump. There are some rules for installing an induction boiler indoors.
The boiler must be mounted at a distance of at least 30 cm from the wall surfaces. The distance from the floor and from the ceiling should be more than 80 cm. To monitor the operation of the system and ensure its safety, a pressure gauge, a blast valve, and an automatic device designed for air removal should be built right behind the coolant outlet pipe.
Before starting work, be sure to check the presence of coolant in the system. The supply of electricity in its absence guarantees equipment failure. Such a boiler can be installed in any room of the building, taking into account its installation at the above distance from its walls, ceiling and floor.
Many consumers who used plastic pipes when installing the system are concerned about the following question: Is it possible to connect an innovative boiler to them? This problem does not exist; plastic pipes for heating systems are designed for use with any heating equipment.
Read how to choose the right expansion tank for a closed heating system.
Advantages and disadvantages. How to choose and install?
How to choose a heat pump for heating a private house? Advantages and disadvantages of heating systems of the future.
Induction boiler price and installation cost
Choosing the power of an induction boiler, like any heating equipment. determined by the size of the heated area of the building. The cost of the equipment also depends on the power. The most inexpensive VIN boiler available for sale costs about 30 thousand rubles. The cost of installation starts from 6 thousand rubles.
The power of such a heater is 6 kW, which is quite enough to heat a small country house. It has two heating sections, 3 kW each, which is very convenient when the outside temperature rises. This design of heating equipment can significantly reduce energy consumption for heating a home.
Review:
I spent a long time choosing a VIN boiler and bought an SAV. At 5 kW. Because the task was to heat the country house. The device copes with its task well. The only negative is that the machine often knocks out and refuses to work through the RCD. I will build a more powerful power supply line. Perhaps this will solve the problem.
DIY induction electric boiler
The simplicity of the design allows home craftsmen to make an induction heating boiler themselves. In the manufacture of the simplest version of such a heater you will need to purchase a high-frequency welding inverter.
It is desirable that it be equipped with a device for smoothly adjusting the current. The power of the structure depends on the value of the welding current (at least 15 amperes).
You should also prepare the following materials:
- thick-walled plastic pipe, the internal diameter of which is slightly less than 5 cm;
- stainless steel wire 7 mm;
- adapters for connecting to the heating system;
- enameled copper wire;
- fine metal mesh.
The wire is cut into pieces of about 5 cm. Then a plastic pipe is taken, a metal mesh is fixed at the bottom, and then an adapter is attached to the base. This pipe will perform two functions simultaneously - it will become a section of the heating system pipeline and the basis of the induction coil.
The inside of the pipe is completely filled with wire scraps. They will serve as a material heated by an electromagnetic field, and a fixed metal mesh will prevent them from falling into the pipeline. Then an adapter is also installed on the top of the plastic pipe.
The next stage of work will be the manufacture of the coil. Around a base of plastic pipe filled with wire scraps, 90 turns of prepared copper wire are carefully wound. The wire should be located in the middle part of the pipe.
The finished device is installed using adapters into a gap in the heating system pipeline. Installation is carried out strictly vertically.
After installation, the coil should be connected to a high-frequency inverter, and the heating system should be filled with coolant. The heating device must be connected to ground. Now you can start using the heating device you made yourself.
To prevent heat loss and have a more aesthetically pleasing appearance, a thermally insulating casing should be made.
Also watch a video on how to make induction heating with your own hands:
A study of consumer demand in the boiler equipment market shows that the majority of buyers who use electricity to heat their homes prefer modern factory-made induction boilers, equipped with various safety systems, powerful and economical. This new generation of heating equipment is becoming more popular every year.
Unprecedented savings, super efficiency, incredible service life and even a new principle of energy transfer. This is how sellers of induction boilers characterize their products. It's time for us to join the high technologies of the future and find out whether induction heating is really so wonderful.
Induction heating, flies and cutlets
Our task in this article is to separate flies from cutlets, advertising tricks of marketers from the harsh truth of life. Let's start with the fact that the expression “induction heating”, which has become popular on the popular Internet, and which we deliberately included in the title of the article, is nonsense. We will, of course, be talking about electric induction water heaters, which are used in conventional water heating systems. We will try to give them an objective assessment, talk about the real pros and cons of these heating devices, which are still quite new for our market.
How does an induction water heater work?
Especially for those who counted crows in 9th grade physics lessons:
Video for inquisitive dummies: what is electromagnetic induction in simple words
Structurally, the water heating part of an induction boiler is similar to a transformer. The first, outer circuit is the winding coils connected to the power source. The second, internal one is a heat exchange device in which the coolant circulates. When voltage is applied, the coil generates an alternating magnetic field, as a result of which currents are induced in the heat exchanger, causing it to heat up. Thermal energy is transferred from the metal to water or non-freezing liquid.
The design of an induction water heater is as simple as five cents. In this regard, craftsmen who have access to cheap components assemble induction heating with their own hands at home. For those who are not sufficiently familiar with safety precautions in the energy sector, we do not recommend repeating their experience: the voltage is high, it is dangerous!
The operation of kitchen induction cookers is based on the same principle, only the cookware itself, which must be made of a specially selected metal, serves as the secondary circuit. Such electric stoves are two times more economical than conventional “pancakes” due to the fact that there are no losses in the transfer of thermal energy from heating elements to pots and pans. The high efficiency of such kitchen appliances attracts citizens so much that topics like “heating using an induction cooker” are seriously discussed on forums. And some of our readers ask the question of how to organize heating with an induction stove in a private home. We answer: theoretically, this is even possible, but it is extremely inconvenient: you will have to constantly run and add water to the pan so that it does not boil over. In addition, only the kitchen will heat up, there will be a lot of steam, it’s a pity for the dishes.
In order for a water heater to turn into a full-fledged heating boiler, it must be equipped with control devices that allow it to maintain the temperature of the coolant at a given level. Many manufacturers of induction boilers offer simple automation, but a competent electrician can assemble the circuit himself.
Electrical control circuit for an induction boiler connected to a 220 V line
Same for 380 V
Who invented it
Let's leave aside those sellers who talk about the “new principle of energy transfer”, which is supposedly used in induction boilers. These people are blatantly illiterate or lie shamelessly, looking at customers with innocent eyes. Let's see how innovative this device is and who can be considered its creator.
The honor of discovering electromagnetic induction belongs to Michael Faraday, which happened in 1831. Inductive heaters went beyond laboratories in 1900, when the first industrial induction steelmaking furnace was launched in Sweden. Since then and to this day, such heaters and furnaces have been widely used in production, but until recently they were not used for heating. Of course, well-known heating equipment manufacturing companies explored the possibility of heating the coolant using electromagnetic induction, but the use of this technology was considered inappropriate. So small domestic enterprises that have established small-scale production of such devices are “ahead of the rest.” But we can confidently say: the inductive heating boiler does not contain any new technical ideas.
How economical is a super-economical boiler?
To begin with, let's say that heating with electricity is initially the most expensive. In terms of cost, electric heating cannot compete not only with cheap natural gas and solid fuel, but even with liquefied gas and diesel fuel. The only way to reduce costs is to install a heat accumulator in the house and heat it mainly at night, when a preferential electricity tariff is in effect.
To put it simply, a heat accumulator is a large, well-insulated reservoir of liquid, which during the day will store reserves of “cheap” night energy
Sellers claim that induction water heaters for heating have a fantastically high efficiency of 100%. And this is the honest truth. However, it should be noted that all electrical heating devices have exactly the same efficiency, regardless of their type. The consumed electrical power is completely converted into thermal power. However, it should be taken into account that not all the energy is transferred to the coolant; part of it from the heat exchanger is dissipated in the boiler room. Which, in general, is not a problem, because the furnace room should also be warm. But in conventional electric boilers, the heating element is completely immersed in liquid and the energy of the heating element is used more fully.
If we delve deeper into the topic of economy, it should be said that the most economical type of electric heating is warm cable or film floors. Greater efficiency is achieved due to optimal temperature distribution in the room and the absence of losses in the operation of mechanical devices. Unlike water heating, there are no circulation pumps.
With heated floors, the temperature in the room is distributed optimally: your feet are warm, your head is cold. Radiators give the opposite picture. In a room with heated floors, you can maintain a lower average temperature (and spend less energy), while a person will feel even more comfortable than usual
Conclusion: in terms of efficiency, an induction water heater is no better or worse than other electrical appliances intended for heating, and has standard characteristics.
How long will an induction heating boiler last?
Manufacturers claim that an induction boiler will last at least a quarter of a century. And this may well turn out to be true. There are no moving parts in the device, there is no mechanical wear. If the copper winding and coil are made properly, they can last for many decades. The coolant core will be constantly subject to erosion from the coolant, but, being made of good steel and having sufficient thickness, it is also capable of working for a very long time. True, a prerequisite for the “longevity” of a water heater is its operation at the recommended temperature conditions, and automation is responsible for this. We can say that an induction boiler can potentially serve its owners without breakdowns much longer than other types of heat generators for heating, and the real numbers depend only on the level of quality at which it is manufactured. We have been producing and installing such water heaters not so long ago, so long-term statistics on the equipment have not yet been developed.
Conventional electric boilers cannot boast of such reliability. With constant use, the heating element or anode will last 10-15 years. They are easy to replace, but they are an additional expense and hassle.
A variant of a heating scheme for a private house based on an induction boiler. 1 – cabinet with automatic control and protection; 2 – induction water heater; 3 – hydraulic safety block (pressure gauge, valves); 4 – shut-off valves; 5 – circulation pump; 6 – filter; 7 – membrane expansion tank; 8 – heating circuit; 9 – make-up and drain line
To buy or not
So, does it make sense to purchase an induction boiler for heating? Alas, we cannot give a definite answer to this question. Stories about its super-efficiency turned out to be a myth; reliability can be high. Or maybe not. The noiselessness they are talking about is inherent in all electric heaters; the sound can be produced by a pump. Compactness is highly controversial.
At first glance, the induction boiler (right) is much more compact than the heating element boiler (left). However, the body of the latter contains a bunch of all the necessary equipment that will also be needed for induction. And it’s not a fact that if placed randomly, it won’t take up more space on the wall.
Otherwise, we do not see any advantages for an induction boiler over conventional ones. But there is a drawback: it costs more. Or, to be more precise, they ask for more money. Moreover, a good heating element boiler for its money is a balanced device, completely ready for installation and operation. And the induction heater still needs to be equipped with additional equipment. In our opinion, marketers and sellers, by presenting us with an ordinary product as an exclusive, are trying to “skim the chips.” Get more profit than on other products. Although, a downward trend in prices has already emerged and we can expect that fair prices will be established for induction boilers over the next few years. Or they will simply stop releasing them.
If you are considering purchasing an induction water heater to heat your own home, we recommend talking to professional heating engineers, both designers and practitioners. Experienced specialists monitor trends and have the opportunity to give assessments on new types of technology based on their own practical experience. Equipment suppliers are also worth listening to, but what they say should be taken with a critical eye.
Video: induction boiler
Today, almost everything is only becoming more expensive, and traditional energy resources are no exception. House owners, apartment residents, business owners - everyone has to look for a more profitable way to heat their premises. And in order to distribute costs more rationally and achieve maximum efficiency, many install an induction heating boiler with their own hands.
One of the main advantages of such a boiler is that this system can be built independently. To do this, you will need only minimal knowledge and skills. You just need to study in detail what such a boiler consists of and how it works.
Before you assemble an induction heating boiler with your own hands, you should understand what principles are inherent in its operation, what it consists of and how it works.
Note that such devices are quite similar to heating elements responsible for converting electrical energy into heat.
Installing an induction boiler does not require home owners to completely rebuild their heating system.
The simplest boiler models operate on the principle of an electric inductor, which consists of two windings:
- Primary;
- Secondary.
The primary circuit mainly serves to convert electrical energy into eddy current. The magnetic field that they create is directed to the secondary winding.
The secondary winding is a heating component, as well as the boiler body; it generates heat, which is transferred to the liquid coolant circulating in the heating system.
The housing includes the following components:
- Core;
- External contour;
- Electrical insulation.
- Thermal insulation;
Note that it is precisely such a nuance as the boiler body that is the most important element by which home-made and industrial induction heating boilers are distinguished. Industrial boilers have a cylindrical winding, while homemade boilers have a toroidal winding. It is made of copper wire, surrounds a body made of ferrimagnetic steel, the wall thickness is more than 1 cm. This design allows you to significantly reduce the weight of the device and its linear dimensions, but at the same time increase efficiency.
The coolant receives approximately 97% of the heat energy, and this affects the economical use of the system and productivity.
If we compare a homemade induction heating boiler and a traditional boiler that runs on gas or liquid fuel, then several nuances should be highlighted:
- Double heating of the coolant;
- Reducing heating time by half;
- Low level of inertia;
- The magnetic induction that appears prevents scale from forming on the walls;
- No specialized cleaning or maintenance required.
Let's start working!
So, to make homemade induction heating boilers, you must first collect everything you need:
- Working tools;
- Wire rod or steel wire with a diameter of up to 7 mm;
- Copper wire;
- Thick-walled plastic pipe;
- Metal mesh;
- Inverter welding machine.
To make a housing for our boiler, you need to either buy or find at home a thick-walled plastic pipe with an internal diameter of 5 cm. Such a pipe will not only serve as the basis of the induction coil, but also be a section of the heat pipe.
The heating diagram, which is best placed in front of your eyes, will also help you a lot. Based on such a diagram, you can determine additional characteristics of the device.
Pieces of steel wire, cut to a length of about 5-7 cm, will be heated in an electromagnetic field. Their diameter should not be more than 7 millimeters.
You will also need special adapters; these are the ones that will connect your boiler to the pipe system. On the one hand, the coolant will go in in a cold state, and on the other, it will come out warm using induction.
When you make induction heating boilers with your own hands, the first adapter must be welded, and the second one can simply be threaded.
The entire internal space in the pipe is filled with cut pieces of wire. After this, the device must be securely closed on both sides.
To make an induction coil that will serve as the main heating element, you should prepare enameled copper wire. We wind approximately 90-100 turns onto the plastic body, but the same distance must be maintained between sections. When we have assembled such a homemade inductor, we need to connect it to the system. Such a boiler can be installed anywhere in the pipeline.
The coil is connected to the high-frequency inverter. Remember that under no circumstances should you turn on such a device if there is not enough heat carrier inside it! After all, the plastic case can simply melt due to high temperature.
So, an induction boiler made by yourself is almost ready. You just need to ensure its operation is safe. To do this, we must insulate all open areas of copper wire with special materials that have good thermal and electrical conductivity.
Or is it better to buy?
On the modern heating equipment market you can find many models of induction boilers. If you don’t want to bother creating it yourself, just purchase an induction boiler to heat your home or industrial premises.
Despite the fact that this type of boiler is not yet included in the list of traditional ones, there are many types on the market that vary in price. Household models can cost from 25,000 rubles, industrial ones - from 100,000 rubles.
If this cost scares you, then just make an induction boiler yourself. After all, most of the components and materials necessary for this are always available to the owner and home craftsman.
If we examine the domestic market of induction boilers, they are represented by such manufacturers as SAV, VIN. As for power, single-phase boilers have a range from 2.5 kW to 7 kW, and more powerful three-phase boilers - up to 60 kW.
It should be remembered that when you select the necessary parameters of an induction boiler, the power of the device will not decrease throughout the entire period of operation. The standard ratio is 60 W per 1 sq.m of area that is heated. But in order to more accurately calculate the power, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the room, that is, the place where this boiler is located. If the thermal insulation leaves much to be desired, and the insulation too, then the calculated ratio should be greater. That is why it is best to entrust such calculations to specialists.
Induction boilers can maintain a stable temperature in buildings that are not used constantly.
So, you don’t need a very powerful model; you will need to install a 6 kW boiler for a room of 100 sq.m and for a temperature of about 15 degrees. The maximum permissible pressure in the system will be no more than 0.3 MPa.
It is worth noting that an electronic operating mode programmer unit can also be additionally supplied to the basic package. Such a device programs the operation of an induction boiler for a period of a week, or is used to remotely control the entire heating system.
When choosing a boiler, you also need to pay attention to such a thing as the thickness of the steel core. The thicker the walls, the longer it will not be subject to corrosion.
Results
So, the efficiency of induction boilers is approximately 99%, they operate silently, using any liquid heat carrier, they do not require maintenance, and it is also safe and practical. Although such a boiler is quite expensive, such costs are recouped. And if you create it yourself, it will be even more profitable.
Of course, the choice is yours, but it’s better to contact specialists who will tell you whether such heating is suitable for you. But, in general, induction boilers are an excellent alternative to traditional heating systems.
Do you want to furnish your home with efficient and at the same time cost-effective heating? Then be sure to pay attention to modern induction boilers. Such units are characterized by high productivity and at the same time have an extremely simple design, so you can easily handle the assembly of an induction heating boiler with your own hands. The operation of the equipment in question is based on the use of inductive electrical energy.
Such boilers are absolutely safe and environmentally friendly. During their operation, no by-products are released that can harm humans and the environment.
By design, such boilers are a kind of electric inductors, which include two short-circuited windings.
Thus, the internal winding is responsible for converting incoming electrical energy into special eddy currents. An electric field is formed in the unit, which subsequently enters the secondary coil. The latter simultaneously performs the functions of the heating element of the heating unit and the boiler body.
The secondary winding is responsible for transferring the generated energy directly to the coolant of the heating system. Special oils, antifreeze liquids or clean water are used as coolant in such installations.
The internal winding of the heater is exposed to electricity. As a result, some voltage appears and eddy currents are formed. The created energy is transferred to the secondary winding, after which the core begins to heat up. Once the entire surface has been heated, the coolant will begin to provide heat to the radiators, and they to the heated rooms.
Is it rational to assemble the boiler yourself?
Induction heating boilers have a simple design; there are no difficulties with their assembly. However, you will definitely have to at least carefully study the proposed instructions and make efforts to correctly assemble a high-quality unit.
The reward for your efforts will be efficient and financially beneficial heating equipment. To assemble the boiler, you do not need to buy any expensive components - all the necessary elements are sold in ordinary construction, hardware and other specialized stores.
Provided that the finished unit is properly assembled and handled properly, it will easily last 20 years or even more. The main thing is to carry out everything in strict accordance with the instructions.
You are not given any extremely complex tasks, and it is almost impossible to make any critical mistakes when assembling an induction boiler according to the instructions.
Assembling a simple induction boiler
To assemble an induction boiler, you do not need to use any difficult-to-use tools or expensive materials. All you need is to have at least a basic understanding of the operation of an inverter-type welding machine.
First step. Cut the stainless steel wire or rod into pieces about 5 cm long. The required diameter of the wire used is 7-8 mm.
Second step. Prepare a plastic pipe to assemble the device body. A product with a diameter of about 50 mm will be sufficient.
Third step. Cover the bottom of the main pipe with fine mesh wire mesh. Select a mesh with such cells that pieces of loaded stainless steel or wire rod cannot pass through them.
Fourth step. Completely fill the housing with wire or rod, and then cover the free hole in the tube with a second metal mesh.
Fifth step. Carefully and as tightly as possible, wind about 90 turns of copper wire around the middle part of the body.
Sixth step. Connect special adapters to the heater body for insertion into the heating or plumbing system. The scheme is extremely simple: water enters the heater through one adapter - it heats up almost instantly - it exits into the heating system through the second adapter - the batteries and pipes give off heat to the room being served.
As a result of such simple manipulations, you will receive an inexpensive and extremely easy-to-assemble device for effective heating. The advantage of using a homemade induction boiler is that there is no need to allocate a separate boiler room for its installation. You simply cut out a piece of pipe near the entrance to the radiator and attach your homemade heater in its place.
Important: do not turn on the heater if there is no coolant in the heating system. In such a situation, the plastic body of the heater will simply melt and all your work will go down the drain.
Don't forget to reliably ground your homemade heating device.
Design of a vortex induction heating unit
Assembling such a unit will require you to have certain skills in handling a welding machine, as well as a three-phase transformer. The advantage of a vortex heater is that it does not contain elements that cannot withstand intense loads for a long time. That is, the risk of early boiler failure is reduced by an order of magnitude.
Also among the advantages of the unit in question is the absence of detachable connections. This allows you to completely forget about the risk of leaks.
A homemade vortex induction boiler operates in almost silent mode. This allows you to mount it in any desired location. There are also no harmful exhausts, so you don’t have to worry about the need to arrange a reliable boiler room and install a chimney.
First step. Weld a pair of metal pipes with a diameter of about 2.5 cm together so that the result is a round-shaped product. The resulting workpiece is both the heating element of the boiler and its core.
Second step. Place the resulting circle in a plastic pipe of a suitable size.
Third step. Make a winding on a plastic case from materials already familiar to you. Thanks to such a winding, the efficiency and productivity of the unit will be significantly increased.
Fourth step. Place the plastic case in a quality insulating case. It will prevent possible electrical leaks and help to significantly reduce heat loss.
Heating will be carried out due to the contact of the coolant with the same winding. Winding and all further actions are performed according to the same scheme as in the case of an ordinary induction installation discussed in the previous instructions.
Important notes on installation and use of the boiler
Homemade induction boilers are extremely easy to assemble, install and operate. However, before you start using this kind of heater, you need to know a few important rules, namely:
It is strongly recommended to equip the boiler pipe with a blast valve. Through this simple device, you can, if necessary, rid the system of excess air, normalizing pressure and ensuring optimal operating conditions.
Thus, using inexpensive materials and simple tools, you can assemble a complete installation for efficient space heating and water heating. Follow the instructions, remember the special recommendations, and very soon you will be able to enjoy warmth in your own home.
Good luck!
Video - DIY induction boiler
Due to the constant increase in energy prices, owners of country houses and city apartments are switching to alternative, more profitable types of heating, mainly choosing autonomous options. Some people prefer to install so as not to overpay for central heating, which in some regions is paid not only in winter, but also in summer. Other homeowners have become interested in heating their homes using electrical appliances.
Electricity is more convenient in the sense that the installation of such a water heater does not require coordination with permitting organizations, drawing up and approval of a project. But many are put off by high tariffs. This means that you need to opt for electric boilers, which are characterized by increased efficiency and economical operation. These, of course, include units of the induction operating principle. They rightfully created quite high competition for gas heating appliances.
But the induction boiler itself is a very expensive “pleasure”. Therefore, many home craftsmen are interested in the question of whether it is possible to make an induction heating boiler with their own hands. It turns out, yes, this is a feasible task, but it requires a certain skill and knowledge, especially in the field of electrical engineering.
Let's immediately make a reservation about the following. The author of these terms is not a supporter of “home-made products” in the field of electrical equipment operating with life-threatening voltages. Therefore, this publication should be considered as an overview of possible options, but not as a step-by-step guide to action. You should very soberly weigh your strengths, knowledge and capabilities before embarking on such a task.
What is an induction boiler?
Induction heating systems began to be used in the 80s of the last century in industrial enterprises. Household appliances appeared only in the mid-nineties. Over the past decades, they have been refined and some updates have been made to their design, however, the principle of their operation remains unchanged.
The name of these heating systems and devices in itself indicates that their operation is based on electromagnetic induction. The essence of the operating principle is that if an alternating current is passed through a wire of a sufficiently large diameter cross-section, wound in the form of a coil, then a powerful electromagnetic field is created around this primary winding. If there is a conductor in this field, then voltage will be induced (induced) in it. Well, if the field lines intersect a core made of an alloy with magnetic properties located in it, then a kind of short-circuited circuit is obtained. And due to the appearance of stray Foucault currents on it, very fast and strong heating of this material occurs.
This principle is widely used, for example, in the steel industry. They also found a use for it for fast and high-temperature heating of water. It is clear that the core in this case will be a pipe or other channel through which the coolant circulates.
And the most understandable example of an induction heater is a wire wound around a pipe made of a dielectric, which will insulate a magnetic core placed in its interior.
The wire coil is connected to the power supply and creates an electromagnetic field. As a result of exposure to an alternating electromagnetic field, the metal core rod will heat up, transferring heat to the coolant, which then enters the pipes and radiators of the heating circuit. Oil, water or ethylene glycol can be used as a coolant in autonomous heating systems.
This is, of course, a very simplified explanation. In industrial induction boilers, the heat exchange ferromagnetic core can be a whole labyrinth of pipes or channels, and often, for example, in vortex heaters, the body of the device is also involved in this process.
In heating systems of short length, the coolant, heating up, will rise up, and the created natural pressure is usually sufficient for its natural circulation. If the heating main quite long and branched, connected to collectors with further distribution of coolant flows along separate circuits, then one or more circulation systems are installed in the system, since without them the required coolant movement will be impossible to achieve.
Is the induction heating method really effective and reliable?
Before you buy or start making an induction boiler, it is worth understanding how effective this heating method is. In specialized shopping centers you can hear only positive characteristics of systems operating on this principle from sales consultants. However, not everything they say is 100% true. And these heating units have their own, so-called, "pitfalls".
Sellers operate with a whole list of theses, trying to increase sales of boilers operating on the induction principle:
- For example, it is a common statement that the operating principle of these devices is an innovative development.
In reality, this is not true, since electromagnetic induction was discovered back in 1831 English experimental physicist Michael Faraday. In the second half of the twentieth century, induction systems were successfully used in the metallurgical industry.
From this we can conclude that these devices can hardly be classified as innovative technologies. However, this also has its own “plus”, since such a system has already been time-tested and proven to be effective.
- The next important quality that sellers focus on is the cost-effectiveness of using an induction boiler. It is usually stated that this type of unit consumes 25-30% less energy than other electric heaters. Is it possible to agree with this?
Probably not, though. Each one consumes electricity according to its power specified by the manufacturer in the technical data sheet. That is, to generate one kilowatt of heat, in the most ideal case (at 100 percent efficiency), the device needs to consume a kilowatt of electricity. Moreover, even with the parameters mentioned, the efficiency of the unit may be lower, since much also depends on the specific operating conditions of the boiler.
The time it takes to heat the coolant to the desired temperature depends on the power and efficiency of the heating element. It must be said that part of the expended energy, one way or another, is wasted, since the materials from which the device parts are made have non-zero resistance. However, heat loss from the operation of an induction boiler does not go “down the chimney”, but remains in the room where the device is installed, which is often their obvious advantage.
So, the conclusion suggests itself is that it is unlikely that you will be able to save any serious money on electricity when using an induction boiler. But their efficiency and heating speed are really high.
- Despite the approximate service life specified in the data sheet, established by the manufacturer (not to be confused with the warranty!), sellers assure that the induction heating boiler will last at least 25 years. It is necessary to agree that this information is reliable if the electronic control unit is made of high quality. The unit includes semiconductor elements, which can still fail. As a rule, manufacturers provide a ten-year warranty on the components of the electronic unit. However, quite often they work perfectly for 25–30, or even more years.
But in the boiler itself, by and large, there is simply nothing to break. Thus, the primary winding, usually made of copper, has a large margin of safety and will last a long time if it is properly cooled (and this is ensured by coolant circulation).
The core rod or the material of the internal channels, of course, will begin to deteriorate over time, since it will be constantly adversely affected by the aggressive environment of the coolant, as well as by alternating cooling and heating. However, for it to become completely unsuitable for use, more than a dozen years must pass.
Considering the design of a boiler operating using an induction circuit, we can conclude that it is much more reliable and durable than heating devices, in which as Heating elements are used for heating elements.
- Another quality that is a plus for an induction heating device is its silent operation - supposedly this distinguishes it from other heating units. The question arises, is this so?
But here, exactly, exactly the opposite. Yes, electric heating units operate silently, since during their operation no acoustic vibrations are created and no mechanical components are used. However, it is during the operation of the induction device that low-frequency vibrations can be clearly felt, which can irritate people with acute hearing. This negative phenomenon is minimized in vortex-type boilers, in which the supply voltage to the primary coil is first converted to high frequency.
In addition, if a low-quality circulation pump is installed in the system, it can also become a source of mild annoying noise. But this already applies to all heating systems, regardless of the type of boiler. But the modern range of pumps makes it possible to purchase a completely silent model.
- The buyer can evaluate the compactness of the boiler visually. We can say that this unit consists of a piece of pipe of a certain length, which does not take up much space, unlike other heating devices. True, the mass of an induction boiler is usually quite impressive, which means that reliable brackets will be required.
However, do not forget that space will be required for the accompanying elements of the system, as well as the wiring of circuits and the installation of collectors, if required by the circuit. If it is necessary to heat a fairly large area of the house, then several induction devices are often installed, and the entire system will require a lot of space.
- The statement that boilers of this type are completely safe is and, this quality of boilers is more pronounced than that of their heating element counterparts, which is incorrect. The operational safety of these two types of heating devices is approximately the same, and depends on the correct connection and the performance of the systems designed to protect them from extreme situations.
For example, if a coolant leak occurs in an induction device, and the electromagnetic field does not turn off in time, and heating of the internal core continues, then the housing and fastenings can melt literally in a matter of minutes. Therefore, when purchasing a device or designing it yourself, you need to pay attention to the automatic shutdown of the unit in the event of an emergency.
As you can see from the information presented above, induction boilers, just like other heating units, have their own shortcomings, and they are not unique devices that allow you to pay mere pennies for heating. However, their effectiveness is beyond doubt. And yet, thanks to the compact size of the boiler, it can be placed in an apartment, for example, in a niche, so that it will be almost invisible.
How to make an induction boiler yourself?
There are many designs of induction boilers. Some of them are difficult to perform independently, others are simpler. Next, we will consider relatively affordable options that can be made at home. However, to bring these projects to life, you will need certain materials and tools.
The first option is with using an induction cooker panels
This version of the heating device can be called experimental. It is suitable for heating a small room of 20÷25 m². It is best to install radiators in the heating circuit heated from such a device, which quickly warm up and release heat into the room. In addition, the volume of such radiators is small, so a small amount of coolant is required, which will quickly heat up in an induction mini-boiler.
The source of the alternating electromagnetic field in this project is an induction hob, which may have been replaced with a more modern model, and is currently lying idle in the pantry.
To manufacture this model of a heating device operating on the induction principle, you will need the following materials:
- Steel profile pipe 50x25 mm, ten pieces 500 mm long and two 300 mm long - for the manufacture of a boiler heat exchanger.
- Steel profile pipe 50x30 mm, two pieces 500 mm long and one 700 mm long - for making a bracket.
- Steel pipe with a diameter of 20÷25 mm - two sections 120÷150 mm long.
- Steel sheet 3÷4 mm thick for the manufacture of an expansion tank measuring 270×270×100 mm.
- . Their number will depend on the specific design that is made for a specific location of the boiler and its piping. To connect pipes, you will need related elements - couplings, angles, threaded fittings, etc. – here you can show your own vision of piping and pipe routing.
- Ball valves that will shut off the flow of coolant when it is necessary to carry out preventive or repair work on heating equipment.
In addition to these materials, it is necessary to prepare some other devices and accessories necessary for installation and installation in the boiler piping.
- Circulation pump.
- Induction electric two-burner slab - otherwise it is often called a panel.
To perform the work you will need some tools and instruments, as well as, of course, the ability to work with them:
- Device for soldering polypropylene pipes.
- Gas key.
- Electric drill.
- "Bulgarian" (grinder).
Work on the manufacture of such an induction heating boiler is carried out in the following order:
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to cut the profile steel pipe into pieces of the required length using a grinder. The heat exchanger body will be made from them, through which the coolant will circulate. The segments are folded side by side on the end side, creating a kind of battery. They must be fixed in a position pressed against each other. Next, the pipes are welded together using spot welding. First, they are grabbed along the edges, and then along the entire line of joints, every 100 mm. For faster cooling and strengthening of welded points, as well as for cleaning from welded fumes, the resulting structure can be sprayed with a stream of cold water. |
 | The next step is to trim the edges of the resulting “battery” - to do this, they are trimmed with a sander. Smooth edges are necessary, since they will be covered with a metal U-shaped profile (channel), which must be perfectly evenly installed on the edges of the square pipes welded together. |
 | A U-shaped profile can be purchased ready-made or made independently by cutting one wide strip from a profile pipe. You need to prepare two such parts. Moreover, the cut strips will be further used to cover the end edges of the U-shaped parts, as well as for the design of the brackets. |
 | Now, the resulting channel profile must be very carefully welded with a continuous seam to the edges of the end sides of the “battery”. The space that will be formed by this part will allow the coolant to circulate through the pipes - you get two unique collectors. It should be noted here that it is quite possible to make a heat exchanger-battery in the form of a coil - this will simplify the circulation of the coolant, it will warm up faster, which will increase heat transfer. |
 | Next, from one of the strips that remained after making the U-shaped profiles, four plug inserts are cut off, corresponding in size to the holes formed by the U-shaped profiles welded to the ends of the battery. Then, they are welded to the place intended for them with a continuous seam, since the structure should be airtight. |
 | Now, on the end sides of the battery you need to drill two holes into which sections of pipes with threads on the outside are welded. One pipe should be located at the bottom of one side of the battery - it is intended for the entry of cooled water into the heating boiler (the so-called “return”). The second pipe is welded into a hole located in the upper part of the opposite side of the structure. Through it, heated water will flow into the heating circuit (supply). In addition to them, in the center of the sides, also by welding, sections of a profile pipe 100 mm long are fixed. |
 | Welding points and seams on the finished heat exchanger are cleaned using a grinder and give the structure a neat appearance and smoothness. The back side of the heat exchanger must be treated especially carefully, since the heating surface of the induction cooker must be pressed against it. |
 | Next, the finished assembly must be primed and then coated with heat-resistant paint intended for metal elements of the heating system. |
 | The next step is to make an expansion tank from metal panels. Its parts are welded together with a continuous seam, since it must be airtight. A pipe with an external thread is cut into the lower side of this part of the system for connection to the heating circuit. It must be said that the expansion tank can also be bought ready-made. Its capacity is selected depending on how much coolant will be in the heating circuit - you can proceed from the value of 10% of the volume. |
 | Next, you need to prepare a frame-bracket for installing the induction panel and securing the heat exchanger. In this illustration you can see that the bracket consists of two vertically located profile pipes and a lower shelf. The latter can also be made from a profile pipe, from which one narrow and one wide side is cut off. Sections of profile pipe are welded in the middle part of the vertical profiles. Their location must be calculated so that they can dock with the pipe sections attached to the ends of the heat exchanger. Then all the parts are fastened together by welding, and the lower horizontal part of the structure should form a shelf on which the induction panel will be installed. After this, the heat exchanger is fixed to the bracket using pipe sections welded at its ends. However, there should be a gap between the bracket and the heat exchanger into which the induction panel can be installed so that it is pressed tightly against the heat exchanger with its heating elements. |
 | An induction panel designed for cooking works on the same principle as a boiler, since it contains coils inside that induce a powerful alternating electromagnetic field. This field will become the “initiator” of heating the steel profile pipes of the heat exchanger battery. The convenience of its use lies in the fact that all electronic and electrical modules are located inside the structure, and the external coating of the panel makes the device safe. When installing the panel in the bracket behind the heat exchanger, it is pressed against its surface. |
 | Now all that remains is to bring the pipes to the boiler that will connect it to the heating circuit. For this, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes can be used, the main thing is that they are designed for hot water having a temperature of at least 95 degrees. As mentioned above, the outlet of the heated coolant from the installation is connected to a pipe delivering it to the radiators, as well as to an expansion tank, which is fixed to the wall under the ceiling. |
 | The entire system will not work effectively without a circulation water pump, which can be installed in any convenient place in the heating circuit, but ideally on the “return” pipe before entering the boiler - there it will be less exposed to high-temperature effects. It is advisable that it be located close to a power outlet. |
 | All that remains is to fill the system with water (coolant) and check the tightness of all connecting nodes. If everything is normal, you can start the boiler. The illustration shows a test run using a carrier. In real operating conditions, it is, of course, necessary to connect a separate power line to the boiler with the appropriate wire cross-section and ground loop. |
Using an induction panel, you can make another version of the boiler, which will be more efficient than the one described above, although less compact.
The peculiarity of this option is horizontal induction hob with heat exchange blocks installed directly on the heating pads located in it. Here the design essentially works the same as a regular tile, on which a pan of water is placed and heated to high temperatures. The difference is that the container (“pan”) is made from ferromagnetic alloy, that is, all its walls are actively heated. These containers are made sealed, interconnected, and the heated water does not evaporate, but goes into the heating circuit connected to such a boiler.
The second option is with a homemade induction coil and a welding inverter
The second version of the induction boiler heater is made on the basis of a high-frequency welding inverter. It is desirable that the machine be equipped with a continuously adjustable welding current. The power of the inverter should be directly proportional to the power that the heating boiler should have. The most suitable option for a homemade design is an inverter rating of 15 amps, but if necessary, you can make it more powerful.
It should be correctly understood that the water heater is under no circumstances connected to the welding wire terminals - nothing but a short circuit will result in this case. The inverter will have to be modified somewhat - the primary winding of the created heater must be connected after the high-frequency converter, instead of the induction coil of the inverter itself. If it’s difficult to figure this out on your own, then consult with a specialist in this field.
This heating principle is used for heating the coolant, which passes through the same pipe placed in an electromagnetic field. The option shown below can be called very controversial, but the master who tried it in practice convinces of its performance and effectiveness.
As will be seen, manufacturing costs are minimal, so if desired, it is quite possible to conduct an experiment. Even if the power is not enough for full heating, perhaps this will be an acceptable solution for heating water for domestic purposes.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | So, in addition to the inverter welding machine, a number of other parts will be required to create the heater. As a housing, which will be part of the heating circuit, as well as the basis for the formation of the induction coil and heat exchanger, a piece of polypropylene pipe with thick walls (PN25) 400÷500 mm long, intended for transporting hot water, is used. It is desirable that the internal diameter of the pipe be at least 50 mm, that is, a pipe with an external diameter of 75 mm is used. You can take a smaller one, say, with an external 50 mm and an internal 33, but the performance of the heater, of course, will decrease. You will need steel wire or a metal rod with a diameter of 6÷7 mm - sections of 40÷50 mm long are cut from it. These elements will take on the role of a ferrimagnetic heat exchanger core. Other options for heat exchangers are also possible - this will be discussed below. |
 | Instead of cut pieces of rod inserted into the cavity of the pipe, one thick metal rod or a steel pipe of smaller diameter, a steel auger, or other products that have magnetic properties and are convenient for placement in a PVC pipe can be used. Thus, they practice filling the pipe with steel balls, large shavings, unnecessary nuts, etc. If small metal elements are used to fill the pipe, from which the coolant will heat up, then one edge of the pipe must be covered with a metal mesh. Then pour steel filler elements into it, and then cover its second edge with mesh. |
 | You can use a metal screw with frequent turns or several metal tubes with a diameter of 4÷5 mm, which will be tightly installed in a polypropylene pipe body. They will provide a large area of direct heat exchange with circulating water. Some craftsmen use steel wire or even ordinary stainless steel kitchen sponges to fill the “cauldron”, tightly driving them into a polypropylene pipe. |
 | When purchasing kitchen sponges for such purposes, you will need to check them to see if they have magnetic qualities. To do this, when you go shopping at the store, you can take a regular magnet with you and attach it to the product to clean the dishes. If such a sponge is magnetic, then it is suitable for filling the cavity of an induction heat exchanger. Since the chips are thin, they will heat up very quickly, giving off thermal energy to the coolant that will pass through it. The option of densely filling the pipe with metal shavings can perhaps be called the simplest, most affordable and effective option. |
 | When the body of the induction heat exchanger is filled with metal products, adapter couplings are welded along its edges, bringing its large diameter to the diameter of the heating circuit pipes. Then, if it is necessary to install the device in a specific location, elbow corners are welded to the couplings through a section of pipe, directing the coolant flow in the desired direction. It would be nice to weld the couplings with American nuts - this way the heating device will become removable, for example, to perform any repair or maintenance work. A specific wiring diagram for these corner bends or, if necessary, straight pipe sections, is drawn up in advance, based on the specific conditions for installing the heating device and the circuit layout. |
 | Next, you need to glue textolite sticks or rods onto the pipe, which will serve as the basis for winding the induction coil. Textolite is chosen because it has excellent dielectric properties and is not afraid of elevated temperatures. |
 | Along the edges of the heat exchanger body, from the same PCB, you need to make compensator stands for the ends of the wire, 12÷15 mm high. They will be required to locate the terminal contacts through which the boiler will be connected to the inverter apparatus. |
 | The coil is wound from insulated wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm, which is used for winding in transformers. The coils are laid on top of the textolite rods in increments of 3 mm. The ends of the cable are fixed on textolite racks-clamps. The winding must consist of a whole section of well-insulated cable, since it is through it that the electric current will pass, creating the electromagnetic field necessary to heat the heat exchanger core. |
 | To create a winding, you will need 10÷10.5 m of insulated cable, from which 90 turns should be obtained. Its length and cross-sectional size were determined after calculating the parameters of the coil located on the “native” inductor of the welding machine. To connect the coil to the welding machine, terminals are attached to the ends of the wound wire. The connection must be well insulated. |
For safety reasons, this entire structure can be placed in a casing that will serve as external insulation for the device. It must be made of a dielectric material, which can be a large diameter pipe made of PPR, PVC or PE. The protective casing has holes for the outlet of the ends of the power cable and the outlet of pipes for insertion into the heating or hot water supply circuit. For example, the ends can be sealed with plugs, placed on heat-resistant glue and holes for the pipes made in them or in the side parts of the casing. Here, in principle, there is a wide field for the master’s imagination.
Testing of this device can only be carried out after installing it in the heating system and filling it with coolant. Otherwise, when heated, the polypropylene pipe of the housing may quickly melt.
This illustration shows an approximate diagram of an autonomous heating circuit with an induction boiler installed in it. The system consists of the following elements and units:
1 - Connection to the electrical network via an energy converter. In the design discussed above, a high-frequency converter of a welding inverter is used as it.
2 - The induction water heater itself.
3 - Elements of the “safety group”, which may include a pressure gauge, thermometer, safety valve and automatic air vent.
4 - Ball valves that shut off the water supply in a certain section of the circuit, as well as for replenishing or draining water from the heating circuit.
5 - Circulation pump necessary to create the required coolant flow.
6 - mechanical (mesh) for cleaning the coolant. Coolant filtration can significantly increase the service life of boiler equipment.
7 - Membrane expansion tank, necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of water or other coolant.
8 - Heating radiator. In a system powered by an induction boiler, a bimetallic or aluminum radiator will work most efficiently. They are characterized by small volumes and very high heat transfer.
9 - Line for replenishing the system with water or emptying it for maintenance or repair work.
In conclusion of the publication, it is necessary to emphasize once again: if you have no experience working with electrical products, have forgotten your knowledge of basic physics, and have no confidence in your skills in plumbing and plumbing, then you should not take on such a job. It would be best to purchase an induction boiler ready-made or as a last resort, order the device from an experienced technician who will not only manufacture it, but also check its performance and safety in operation.
Video: Master shares the secrets of making an induction boiler yourself