The wooden walls are chopped - this is a fairly simple, but not very durable construction. Drawings have now been developed and construction is underway. different types finished houses, country cottages, bathhouses made of rounded logs, you can buy them and then assemble them with your own hands on the site. But financial resources do not always allow such a project to be carried out.

In forested areas, in rural areas purchase required material you can do it much cheaper, and then build a log house out of it, as the article will tell you how to do this.

Previously, log houses were the cheapest option for suburban construction, but with the development of technology, the construction of frame and timber houses, which do not require highly qualified workers. While log houses, on the contrary, continue to rise in price due to the maximum share manual labor during their construction.

Besides:

• A log house cannot be put into operation in one season. You can move into such a house no earlier than in a year, but a large one with a complex layout can even take two years.
• After putting it into operation, the owner will need to carefully monitor the structure for several more years.
• When ordering production log house, it is difficult to define clear and unambiguous rules and regulations. In this case, the width of the groove, the diameters of the logs, and the moisture content of the wood are specified. But many parameters of a log house are purely subjective.

However, log houses also have positive sides.

These include:

• Greater durability compared to other wooden buildings. When processing any wood mechanically, in addition to using an ax and a plane, the structure of the tree begins to collapse, the most dense, outer layer of wood is cut off and becomes waste. All other things being equal, chopped walls will last much longer.
• The originality of the log house. Regardless of its size, such a structure is unique.
• The feeling of newness of life and freedom can only be given by a house made of chopped wood. After urban correct form city ​​buildings made of plastic and concrete walls, V log house another world.
• In addition, the price of an already built log house will only increase over time.

Besides wooden structures:

• Capable of withstanding significant compressive, bending and tensile loads.
• Wood holds sounds well.
• A correctly and efficiently constructed log house does not require additional insulation.
• Reacting to changes in nature depending on the season, log walls indoors create the most favorable temperature and humidity conditions.

Chopped wooden walls there are:

• Cobblestones.
• Log (see).

Features of the construction of a log house

It is best to use wood for the construction of a log house. coniferous species: spruce or pine.

This is due to the fact that:

• Coniferous wood is widely used.
• It is significantly cheaper than hardwood.
• Such types of wood are less susceptible to rotting, which increases the durability of the structure.
• Dimensions of logs from coniferous trees ideal for building a log house.

Tip: For a crown or for yourself bottom row preference should be given to oak logs, and even better, to logs made from bog oak or oak aged in water for several years.

When purchasing logs, you must keep in mind:

• If wood harvesting was carried out in winter, they can safely be used for the construction of a log house.
• It is better not to use harvested logs in summer - they are more susceptible to rotting.

Advice: If possible, build a house from local wood; it not only costs less, but also withstands impacts better climatic conditions.

• For construction log house the wood must be healthy, of high quality, the logs must be free from rot, woodworm, and fungus.
• All logs must have the same caliber or the same diameter of 20 - 25 centimeters. The change in diameter from the bottom to the top of the house should not be more than one centimeter for each meter of element.
• To reduce the likelihood of cracks forming in the log when drying, a cut is made along the entire length to the center.

Tip: Before starting construction, all logs must be prepared.

• If the thickness of the logs is unequal along the length, their butt sides should be trimmed to a thickness that is equal to the diameter of the tops of the log.
• The heave should start from the top, gradually moving to the butt part, which will avoid scuffing the wood.
• It is best to immediately place the walls of a building on a foundation, and only if this is not possible can you install the walls on wooden piles and then build a foundation.
• On top of the waterproofing of the foundation under the logs, a lining of boards treated with bitumen must first be laid, the thickness of the element is at least 50 millimeters.
• A heat-insulating layer of tow or felt is placed on this lining.
• The logs themselves are laid.

Instructions for laying logs:

• Chopped walls are erected by horizontal laying of rows or crowns. In this case, it is necessary to alternate the location of the butts on different sides.
• The first two opposing logs are laid at the very bottom of the wall, after preliminary trimming them from the side that is placed on the foundation and from inside. The width of the edges, for greater stability of the wall, should be at least 150 millimeters.
• All subsequent rows are connected to the previous ones in a groove selected from the bottom of each log. This will avoid the formation of gaps, which will reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls.
• If necessary, thermal insulation is placed in the grooves. It can be:

1. tow;
2. hemp;
3. felt.

• At temperatures up to (- 30°C), the groove width is taken to be at least 15 centimeters.

Tip: To ensure the same width and depth of the groove along its entire length, you must use a template made according to the diameter of the log.

• At the ends of the installed log, vertical diameters are marked with a plumb line, a template is applied to them so that its vertical line coincides with the diameter marked on the log.
• Marks are applied along the edges of the log.
• Lines are drawn with a cord over the entire surface of the log; they will mark the edges of the groove.
• Along the entire width of the groove, notches are made between the notch lines.
• The wood is carefully selected, the curvature of the groove is checked with a template.
• The method of cutting wall corners is determined, which can be:

1. without a trace “in the paw”. This is a more economical, but also quite labor-intensive method;
2. with the remainder “in the cup”, as in the photo. It is completed faster, corners are blown less by the wind, but wood consumption increases.

On the image:

• a - connection with the cup down.
• b - a complex connection in which there is a hidden spike.

Both of these methods are equivalent in terms of structural strength. The video in this article shows more information about laying logs. After the “finish” installation of the log house, the butt seams between the logs must be caulked.

This operation is performed according to some rules:

• The walls are caulked from the outside of the house, then from the inside.
• First, the butt seam between the logs of the first row and frame crowns is caulked along the perimeter of the entire log house.
• The seam between the remaining rows is processed from bottom to top of the wall along the entire perimeter.

Tip: You cannot caulk each wall separately to avoid distortions of the building.

Narrow cracks and grooves are caulked in this way:

• A small strip of felt or hemp or tow is placed against the groove and forcefully pressed into it with a blunt chisel or a special caulk spatula, a method called “stretching”.
• Wide grooves between the crowns are caulked “in a set”. In this case:

1. A twisted rope is spun from tow or hemp, wound from a ball in loops, and hammered into cracks and grooves;
2. Using a chisel or narrow spatula, the upper and then the lower edges of the seam are compacted.

• After the process of settling a house made of logs or shrinking its walls, approximately 1.5 years after completion of the assembly, the caulking work is repeated. Simultaneously with this process, thermal insulation is removed from the gaps above the windows, and the gaps are sealed wooden blocks.
• The corners of buildings cut “in the paw” are insulated:

1. covered with a layer of heat-insulating material;
2. covered with boards.

Features of the construction of a timber frame

A cobblestone frame is a little inferior in color to a log frame, but it is much easier to assemble and then finish.

For external walls, the cross-section of the timber and the depth of the grooves are selected, as in a log house, depending on the climate:

• At temperatures up to (-30°C) for external walls a square beam with a side of 150 millimeters is used to interior walls – rectangular section timber 100 x 150 millimeters.
• For lower temperatures, for external walls, the cross-section of the square beam increases to 180 millimeters, the thickness of the internal walls remains 100 millimeters, and the height corresponds to the side of the cross-section of the element for external walls - 180 millimeters.
• In places with a warm climate, if you plan to cover the log house with boards and install thermal insulation pads, you can use bars with a cross-section of 120 x 120 or 140 x 140 millimeters.

The assembly of the timber frame is carried out:

• Horizontal rows or crowns, between which thermal insulation material must be laid.
• Every two meters the crowns are spliced ​​together with special rectangular tenons made of dry wood or dowels cylindrical approximately 30 millimeters in diameter. This technique strengthens the entire structure as a whole and prevents swelling of the walls.

Bandaging the corners of a log house can be done in several ways:

• With a key.
• On the root thorn.
• Half a tree.

All of them are quite reliable and relatively easy to assemble.

They simply make the connection between external and internal walls, which can be:

• Bandaging.
• Half a frying pan.
• Skovorodny.

The floor beams and the upper crown are connected in a cobbled frame in the same way as during the construction of a log house. If the logs need time to dry indoors, then when constructing a house from timber, you can use parts that have gone through the drying process - a rough draft is not carried out when assembling a log house - the building is immediately assembled “white”.

Chopped and cobblestone walls

It's nice to live in wooden house! After all, wood means ease of processing and ease of assembly of structures, optimal indoor microclimate, and therefore comfort. But, unfortunately, solid wood and building materials made from it are scarce and quite expensive. Therefore, the construction of log and cobblestone houses is limited and can only be recommended in rural areas.

Chopped walls are assembled from coniferous logs or hardwood winter harvesting, preferably freshly cut wood, since such wood contains little water, is easier to process and is less susceptible to drying out, warping and rotting than “logs” harvested in summer. Smooth logs with a small “run” (no more than 1 cm per 1 m) are used for log houses. The diameter (thickness) of the logs is selected based on the minimum winter temperatures: 22-24 cm at temperatures down to -30°C and 24-36 cm at temperatures above low temperatures. For garden houses a thickness of 18-20 cm is quite sufficient. The internal walls of log houses are assembled from logs 2-4 cm smaller in diameter.

When assembling a log house, the logs are laid in horizontal rows-crowns. The bottom row of logs resting on the foundation is called the frame crown. Selected ones go to him, best logs, about 4-6 cm thicker than the others. You will be very lucky if you manage to purchase larch or oak logs for the frame crown; the wood of these species is the most durable and very resistant to water.

The crowns are adjacent to each other with semicircular grooves, which are selected with an ax from the underside of the logs along the entire length. The width of the groove depends on the thickness of the log. So, for example, for a diameter of 22-24 cm it should be about 15 cm, and for 18-20 cm - 12 cm. To maintain horizontality and approximately the same thickness of the rows.

logs in adjacent crowns are placed with their butts (bulges) in different directions. For stability and strength of the walls, the logs of each crown are connected to the logs of the above and underlying crowns with rectangular or round tenons. They are placed at intervals of 1.5-2 m along the length and in a checkerboard pattern along the height of the log house. The size of a rectangular spike is 6x2.5 cm, and a round one is 0 2-3 cm, the length of the spikes is about 12 cm. At least two spikes are installed in the walls between windows, doors and in the corners. The nests for them are made 2-3 cm longer than their length, taking into account the subsequent shrinkage of the log house, which can reach 5% of its height. A section of the wall of a log house is shown in Fig. thirty.

Connections of logs in the corners and intersections with internal walls are made in two main ways: with the remainder - “in the area” and without the remainder - “in the paw” (Fig. 31). A log house assembled “in a block” is easier to assemble and more durable, but it requires 40-50 cm logs longer than the walls Houses. Connecting walls “in a paw” is more economical, but much more difficult to manufacture, since marking and cutting out the “paw” is a rather painstaking task. Corner of the house assembled using this method requires additional thermal insulation, and as a rule it is covered from the outside with two vertically nailed boards 40-50 mm thick.

The log house is assembled first on the ground (away from the foundation of the future house), placing scraps of logs or 2-3 rows of brickwork with roofing felt under it, and leaving it in assembled form for 1-1.5 years. The top of the log house is covered with roofing felt. During this time, the main drying of the log house occurs, after which the logs are crowned, the log house is dismantled and transferred to a properly prepared foundation. Two layers of roofing felt are laid on the foundation pillars, then cuttings of 20-30 mm boards impregnated with bitumen are placed, and on them - a flashing crown, the logs of which must be hewn one or two edges from the bottom and inside. Log logs are also sometimes hewn from the inside or both sides to obtain smooth surfaces walls During final assembly

Tow or dry moss is placed in the grooves in a layer of about 1 cm and with an allowance of 6-8 cm on both sides. After assembly, the cracks of the log house are caulked for the first time. Gaps of about 6 cm are left above the opening boxes for shrinkage.

These gaps are also filled with tow. After 1.5-2 years, a second, final caulking is done with rollers covering the gaps between the logs. After settlement is completed, the walls of the house can be lined with bricks on the wall or sheathed with boards. Collect paving walls

- pure pleasure! They are simpler than chopped ones and are quite accessible for assembly on your own (Fig. 32). Typically, softwood timber is used, most often with a square section from 10x10 to 18x18 cm. The beams may have chamfers on one or two or all edges. between the beams, since cobblestone walls are more susceptible to blowing than chopped ones.

If the timber is made on site, then the slab, which is obtained when cutting logs, also goes into use - it can be used when laying subfloors, installing attic floor or roof sheathing.

For building a house, you should choose only healthy wood without rot or wormholes. Infected wood must be treated with an antiseptic, preferably in two doses with a break of 1-2 hours, and kept in quarantine for at least 2 weeks. Wood should be stored in a dry, elevated place, previously cleared of debris and treated with a 10% solution of ferrous sulfate.

For the log house, straight trunks of deciduous or coniferous trees with a slope of no more than 1 cm per meter of length are selected. The thickness of the logs is selected based on the minimum winter temperatures: up to -30°C - 22-26 cm; up to - 35°C and below - 24-36 cm.

For garden houses, 18-20cm is enough. Walls are cut from both pre-dried and freshly cut logs with a humidity of 80-90%. The latter are easier to process and, when assembled, are subject to less deformation.

The length of the logs is chosen based on the dimensions and layout of the house, taking into account the necessary allowances.

It must be remembered that wood is deformed when natural drying and at a humidity of 15% (operational humidity in conditions middle zone countries) wood reduces its dimensions in the longitudinal direction by approximately 0.1% and in the transverse direction by 3-6%.

To reduce shrinkage cracks, when assembling a log house, you can cut an artificial “crack” along the bottom side of the logs to the core, and make a longitudinal cut along the bottom plane of the beams to half the height of the beam.

Log walls are usually cut down near the installation site, laying the logs “dry” without tow. After the cutting is completed, the log house is allowed to stand assembled (in 6-9 months its humidity decreases by 3-5 times), then the logs are marked, the log house is rolled out and assembled already on tow on pre-prepared foundations.

The seams between the logs are caulked twice: the first time during assembly, the second time 1 - 1.5 years after the cessation of shrinkage and shrinkage of the logs.

A row of logs laid around the perimeter of a house is called a crown.

The felling of the walls begins with the laying of the first frame crown from thicker logs, hewn into two edges: one on the bottom side, the second on the inside. Since the logs in the longitudinal and transverse walls are offset relative to each other by half their height, the first crown on two opposite walls is laid either on support beams or plates, or on an uneven-high plinth.

Logs for walls are trimmed to one edge (from the inside). The first (flat) crown is made of thicker logs, hewn into two edges: one on the inside, the other on the side from which the log will be laid on the foundation. In order for the log to lie tightly and stably on the foundation, the edge width must be at least 15 cm.

The first crown is laid strictly according to the level, the next one is fused with it into a groove, which is selected from the underside of each log. The width of the groove, depending on climatic conditions, ranges from 13 to 15 cm. Best form his is a semicircle, the worst is a triangle.

For insulation, heat-insulating material is placed in the grooves - tow, dry moss, felt. To give the walls stability, the crowns are fastened together with insert tenons 12-15 high, 5-7 wide, 2.5 cm thick, placing them in a checkerboard pattern every 1.5-2 m along the length and height of the frame. The ends of the tenons are chamfered - this way they fit into the sockets more easily. In the walls, the tenons are placed one above the other (but not less than two), positioning them 15-20 cm from the edges. A second is placed on the first crown, a third on it, etc. It is advisable to lay out the log house at once to its entire height, since the felling in separate parts leads to distortions.

The height of the holes for the spikes should have a reserve for draft, that is, be 1.5-2 cm more height thorns The logs are placed in the log house alternately with their butts in different directions to maintain the overall horizontalness of the rows.

I - blind area; 2 - Inca plinth; 3 - log house; 4 - window opening; 5 - “black” floor; 6 - clean floor; 7 - floor beam; 8 - bracket (twisting); 9 - Mauerlat; 10 - rafter leg; 11 - backfill; 12 - roof.

The technology for laying window crowns has some features. The peculiarity of cutting window crowns is that the logs will reach door frame and attach to it. The length of each short piece must be carefully controlled in order to maintain the verticality of the walls and prevent gaps. Short logs should be attached to the door frame best with the help of spikes, which are made at the ends of the logs. At the same time, sockets are selected in appropriate places on the door frame. The placement of dowels when attaching short logs is done somewhat differently than on whole logs. Subject to compliance with all described technological processes and marking accuracy, the quality of the log house will meet the requirements for it. It is not recommended to use short pieces from different logs, as this can lead to different heights of the wall on both sides of the door frame. In addition, the position of the butt part and the top of the short ones should be observed. To do this, it is best to make the appropriate marks K (butt) and B (top) on all short ones. If you follow the sequence of butt parts and short parts along the length of the wall, then the subsequent overlap of window and doorways will be simplified

In the corners, logs are connected in two ways: with the remainder (into the “cup”) and without the remainder (into the “paw”). When cutting "into a cup" due to corner residues, about 0.5 m is lost on each log. In addition, the protruding ends of the logs interfere with subsequent lining or external cladding walls Cutting "in the paw" is more economical, but requires higher qualifications and accuracy in work.

The connection (conjugation) of longitudinal and transverse walls is made using various kinds cutting: “in the bowl”, “in the cloud”, “in the paw”, “in the frying pan”, etc., then insulating some of them with boards nailed to the outside.

Unlike log structures, they are usually assembled immediately on ready-made foundations. If the base of the house is sinking, then the drain is not done and the first crown is laid over a waterproofing layer with an outer overhang above the base of 3-4 cm. The corners of the first crown are connected into half a tree, the rest are either on main tenons or on dowels. The corner connection of the beams "butt-to-shoulder" is fragile and creates blown vertical cracks. A more technologically advanced connection is on the main tenons: the cutting of the tree for the tenon and socket goes across the fibers, and the cleaving goes along it. In addition, with this connection, the tenon socket is located further from the edge of the beam.

To prevent horizontal shifts, the beams are connected to each other by vertical dowels (dowels) with a diameter of about 30 mm and a height of 200-250 mm.

The holes for the dowels are drilled after placing the timber on the tow to a depth approximately equal to one and a half times the height of the timber, 2-4 cm more than the length of the dowel.

Compared to log walls, cobblestones have flat horizontal seams and are more vulnerable to the penetration of precipitation. To reduce their water permeability, a chamfer of about 30 mm wide is removed (planed) from the outer side of each beam along the upper edge, and the outer seams themselves are carefully caulked and covered with drying oil or oil paint.

To improve the protection of block walls from biological destruction of wood and from atmospheric influences, the walls can be sheathed on the outside with planks (diameter -25-40 mm), facing bricks(diameter 88.12 mm), or asbestos cement sheets. This will make the walls warmer, and when brick cladding and more fire resistant.

Log houses are logs that are structurally connected to each other (in a paw or in a claw).

Wooden walls are the most traditional for individual construction. Houses made of timber and log houses are the most comfortable according to sanitary and hygienic standards.

Currently, the choice of artificial structural wall materials very wide (brick, concrete, concrete blocks etc.), however individual developers, especially in small towns and rural areas, continue to use residential buildings natural wood. It is the log house that represents the walls of the hut. Wood that is warm to the touch and pleasant to look at provides the owner of such a home with a lot of pleasant sensations and positive emotions. In addition, wooden structures have a lot of excellent physical qualities: they are able to withstand heavy loads of compression, tension and bending; wood holds sounds; a correctly folded log house does not need additional insulation; reacting to seasonal changes nature, log walls create the most favorable temperature and humidity conditions. Chopped wooden walls can be cobblestones or logs. Log houseA log house is best constructed from coniferous wood - spruce or pine: firstly, coniferous wood is widespread and much cheaper than hardwood; secondly, coniferous wood is less susceptible to rotting, which means that a house made from it will be more durable; thirdly, logs from coniferous trees are ideal in size for building a log house. However, for the very bottom row (crown), it is preferable to use oak logs, or even better, bog oak logs (seasoned for several years in water). Before purchasing logs, you should find out when they were harvested: if in winter, then they can be safely used to build a log house; if in the summer, then it is better to refuse such logs, as they are more susceptible to rotting. It is best to build a house not from imported wood, but from local wood, which will not only be cheaper, but will also better withstand the effects of climatic conditions. To build a log house you need a healthy, quality wood - smooth logs, not affected by rot, woodworm, or fungus. The selected logs must be of the same caliber, that is, have the same diameter - 22 - 26 cm; the change in diameter from the butt (bottom) to the top should not exceed 1 cm for each meter of log. In order to reduce the likelihood of cracks forming in the timber during drying, a cut is made in the logs to the center along the entire length. Before proceeding directly to construction, the logs need to be prepared. If the thickness of the logs you have is not the same in length, then it is necessary to trim their butt sides to a thickness equal to the diameter of the tops of the log. You should start cutting from the top, gradually moving to the butt part: in this way you can avoid scuffing the wood. It is best to place the walls of a house directly on the foundation, and only if this is not possible is it permissible to place the walls on wooden piles and then build a foundation. First, under the logs, on top of the foundation waterproofing, you need to lay a lining of boards treated with bitumen (the thickness of such a lining should be approximately 5 cm). Next, a heat-insulating layer of felt or tow is laid on this board lining, and only after that the logs themselves are placed. The chopped walls are constructed in horizontal rows - crowns - with the butts alternating in different directions. The first to be laid are two opposing logs of the frame (lowest) crown, which should first be trimmed from the inside and from the side laid on the foundation. The width of the edges must be at least 15 cm (for greater stability of the casing and the walls in general). Each subsequent row is connected to the previous one in a groove, which is selected at the bottom of each log. With such a connection, there are practically no gaps left between the logs, which reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls. If necessary, thermal insulation is placed in the grooves - hemp, tow or felt. The width of the groove depends on climatic conditions: if in the cold season the air temperature drops to - 30 ° C, the width of the groove must be at least 150 mm. The same width and depth of the groove along its entire length is ensured by using a template that is made according to the diameter of the log. At the ends of the fixed log, vertical diameters are beaten using a plumb line, to which a template is applied so that the vertical line of the template coincides with the knocked-off diameter on the log. Marks are applied to the edges of the log, then thread lines are drawn along the entire surface of the log with a chalked cord; these lines indicate the edges of the groove. Notches are made between the lines along the entire width of the groove, after which the wood is carefully selected, checking the curvature of the groove with a template. When starting to build a log house, you should decide in advance on the method of cutting the corners of the walls; here two options are possible: without the remainder “in the paw” and with the remainder “in the cup” (“in the cloud”). In terms of structural strength, both of these methods are equivalent. More economical, but at the same time more labor-intensive, cutting "in the paw". Cutting "into a cup" is faster, but it increases the consumption of wood, but, on the other hand, with such cutting the corners of the house will be less blown by the wind. The “paw-to-paw” cutting technique requires explanation. First of all, the ends of the logs must be trimmed on four sides until the shape of a square beam is obtained, while the horizontal sides are trimmed to a length equal to the diameter of the log, and the vertical sides to a length of 1.5 diameters. The difference of half the diameter forms the so-called edge. For convenience of explanation, we denote the vertices of the resulting cube as ABVGDEZHZ. The vertical edges of the cube: AB, VG, DE and ZHZ are divided by eight marks equal parts. On edge AB, points A1 and B1 are marked, which are distant from vertices A and B by Yb of its length. On the edges VG and DE, B1, P, D1 and E1 are marked, distant from the corresponding vertices by 2/6 of the length of the edge. On the edge ZhZ, points Zh1 and 31 should be separated from the vertices Zh and 3 by % of its length. By connecting new points, we get a polyhedron irregular shape A1B1V1PD1E1ZH131. Now all that remains is to remove the excess wood, and the “paw” is ready. To prevent the logs from shifting, you can leave a root (or secret) tenon at the inner corner of the “paw”. When cutting “into a cup”, connecting recesses (cups) are located on both the lower and upper sides of the log (there is also a method of connecting in two cups); The frame with the cup up is more durable. Longitudinal grooves in logs with this type of cutting are selected after removing the cups. The first two logs of the frame crown are laid strictly horizontally and parallel to each other on opposite sides of the proposed log house, then the two second logs are laid on them strictly at right angles. Now you can start marking the cup. This operation is performed special tool- a line. The line is moved apart by half the diameter of the log; II is placed against the upper log in such a way that one leg of the instrument moves along the upper log, and the other along the lower one, outlining a meadow (risk) on its surface. Then the upper logs are moved, and in the lower ones cups are selected into which the shifted logs are placed. If necessary, corrections are made, for example, so that the log fits as tightly as possible to inner surface cups. The second logs of the frame crown should not be at the same level as the first ones: they should rise to half their diameter. To mark the cups for the first logs of the second crown, they are laid on the second logs of the first crown and marks are drawn with a line. The cups are cut down, the first logs of the second crown are placed in them and the longitudinal groove is marked. To do this, the legs of the feature are moved apart to the depth of the groove and the tool is drawn along the entire length of the logs, putting a mark on the top log. Then the log is turned over with the marks facing up, between the marks every 30 - 50 cm notches are made to the depth of the groove, after which the excess wood is removed. Having selected the groove completely, the log is placed in place and corrections are made. The more tightly the groove of the upper log fits onto the surface of the lower one, the better the thermal insulation of this wall will be. The construction of all other crowns of the log house is carried out in a similar manner. Regardless of the cutting method, when assembling a log house, the crowns are fastened with spikes for strength, for which nests are arranged in the mating surfaces of the logs every 1 - 1.5 m. The most acceptable sizes of spikes: thickness - 25 mm, width - 60-70 mm, height - 120-150 mm. The sockets for the spikes are made 20 - 30 mm deeper. To construct the ceiling, beams are cut into the walls. The beams are cut into the outer walls with a frying pan, into the inner walls with a half-frying pan, and they are not placed end to end, but cut into the entire thickness of the wall. In the upper crowns, into which floor beams are embedded, spikes are installed more often, approximately every meter. If the length of the logs is insufficient, they are spliced ​​together along the length, and the logs of the rim crown are spliced ​​with an overhead lock, and the logs of ordinary crowns are spliced ​​with a straight tenon. When assembling a log house, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of spliced ​​logs are not located above each other, but apart. For registration in log cabins window openings with end sides The logs are arranged on ridges 40 - 60 mm thick and 30 - 50 mm high, on which the window frame parts will then rest. The process of cutting down ridges is very labor-intensive, it is much easier to proceed as follows: the ends of the logs forming a window opening need to be evenly sawed off and the thickness of the ridges must be marked on them, the height of the ridges must be marked on the sides (outer and inner), and the marks must be repelled strictly vertically using the marks using a cord. , according to the risks, make cuts, and after assembling the log house, chop off the excess wood. After the “finishing” installation of the log house, the seams between the logs should be caulked. This operation is performed by certain rules: first the walls are caulked from the outside of the building, then from the inside; first of all, the seam between the timbers of the frame and the first row crowns is caulked along the entire perimeter of the log house, then the seam between the second and third crowns is also caulked along the entire perimeter, etc. (it is impossible to caulk each wall separately to avoid distortions); narrow grooves and cracks are caulked as follows: narrow strips of felt or strands of hemp or packing are placed against the groove and pressed tightly; for this purpose it is convenient to use a blunt chisel or a special caulk spatula; this method of caulking is called “stretching”; if the seams between the crowns are wide enough, then caulking is done using the “set-up” method: a twisted rope is spun from packing or hemp and, unwinding it from the ball with loops, hammered into the grooves and cracks, after which, using a chisel or spatula, first the upper and then the lower edges are compacted seam When, the process of precipitation (shrinkage) log walls completed (1 - 1.5 years after final assembly), caulk work is repeated. Simultaneously with repeated caulking from the gaps above the door and window openings the thermal insulation is removed and sealed with wooden blocks, and the corners of the houses, cut into pieces, are insulated (covered with a layer of thermal insulation material and sheathed with boards.

How to build country house Shepelev Alexander Mikhailovich

CHECKED LOG WALLS

CHECKED LOG WALLS

When cutting down houses, it is necessary to use high-quality wood that is not infested with wood-eating beetles and fungus. For cutting, logs of the required length and diameter and preferably the same thickness are prepared. If this is not possible, then trees are selected according to the top cut - diameter with an acceptable difference between diameters of up to 30 mm. It is easier to cut a log house from such logs.

The butt sides of the logs are trimmed from the inside to a thickness equal to the upper diameter, giving their ends an oval shape. The hewing of logs is carried out from the top with the transition to the butt. It does not scuff the wood.

In the process of cutting a log house “with the remainder” or “in the corner”, the logs alternate their ends (the thin end is placed on the thick end).

It is easier to cut a log house from logs of the same thickness, that is, hewn to fit the bracket. When cutting “with the remainder”, individual ends of the logs (longer ones) are sawn off before or after putting them in place.

Log houses “in the paw” are made only from logs of the same thickness. The paws are marked at the ends according to a template. The dimensions of the paws depend on the thickness of the logs. The first, or salary, i.e. lower crown often not cut off. The highest quality wood should be used for it. When cutting, the “cup” is selected from the bottom side of the log, but in some places (Gorky region, etc.) it is placed on the top side of the log. Thermal insulation material is used for insulation. The width of the grooves depends on local climatic conditions. At an outside air temperature of 30°, the groove width is at least 120 mm, at an air temperature of 40°, about 140 - 160 mm. The best groove shape is semicircular, the worst is triangular.

For strength, the crowns are fastened along the length with spikes, placing them every 1 - 1.5 m. The thickness of the spikes is 25 mm, width - 60 - 70, height - 120 - 150 mm. The nests for them are made 20 - 30 mm deeper. Thorns are often placed in the last two crowns, between which they cut ceiling beams. Due to wood shrinkage and compaction thermal insulation materials Within one to a year and a half after construction, a log house shrinks by approximately 1/20 of its height.

Caulking is carried out in 2 times: the first - after putting the log house in place - rough, the second - one to one and a half years after the end of shrinkage and caulking with rollers.

In order for thermal insulation materials to last longer (2 times or more), it is best to pre-impregnate them with an anti-rot composition, for example, 3 kg of sodium fluoride is dissolved in 97 liters of water heated to 30 - 40 °. When impregnated, the materials are kept in the solution for 20 - 30 minutes, then dried well. Up to 200 kg of material can be processed in 100 liters of composition.

To insulate the corner joints “in the paw,” they should be covered with boards over the laid heat-insulating material.

In external walls of increased length, it is necessary to arrange transverse internal walls, tying them “in a claw” or “in a paw”. Internal walls are placed one after another every 6.5 m, but no more, with a log diameter of external walls of 220 mm and at a distance of 8.5 m - with a log diameter of 240 - 260 mm. If the distance between the internal walls is greater than specified, then the walls are reinforced with compression - paired beams, tightening them with bolts.

Raw wood is easier to process, but much harder to lift. A frame made from raw wood must be dried for one to two years. The walls of the log house are covered from above,

Before placing the logs in place, they are first marked and then dismantled. It is better to place the topmasts of a house directly on the foundation than on wooden poles followed by construction of the foundation.

When cut “in the clear”, but with the cup up (Fig. 91, c), the wooden walls of houses last for hundreds of years. Roof overhangs should be at least 500mm, with well-constructed roofing. To insulate and protect from getting wet and rotting, it is best to sheathe the corners with boards. The logs along their length are spliced ​​with a straight tenon (Fig. 92), the logs of the casing crown are spliced ​​with an oblique lock (see “Extension and splicing”).

Let's consider the technique of chopping "in the cloud" with the cup up. The first, or frame, crown consists of two first, or lower, logs and two second, or upper, logs. First, the first two logs are laid on opposite sides strictly horizontally and at the same distance from each other. Then two second logs are laid on them strictly at right angles (see Fig. 91). After this, they begin to make corner joints “into the cup”. First, the cups are outlined. For this purpose, the legs of the line are moved apart by half the diameter of the upper log (Fig. 93). They attach a line to the upper log so that it moves with one leg along the upper log, and with the other it outlines an arc, leaving a line on the lower log. Having marked the cups, they begin to select and cut them down, for which the upper logs are moved to the side. Having cut out the cups, in the lower logs at one end of the log house they put the previously removed upper log into them. If necessary, corrections are made, but so that the log fits as tightly as possible to all sides of the cup.

Fig. 91. Cutting the corners of the walls “in oblo” (cup down):

A- simple connection; 6 - complex connection with a hidden tenon; V -"blow" with the cup up

Rice. 92. Splicing logs:

A- fastening logs with a straight tenon along the length; b - fastening the logs together with spikes; V - logs of internal walls, hewn into two edges; G- external logs

The cup is made in the same way and the second top log is laid. We remind you that the second logs should not be at the same level as the first ones, but raised above them by half their diameter.

After this, the first logs of the second crown are laid, but with their butts in different directions. They must be on the same vertical, hewn on the same edge using a tracing line with the logs of the first crown, for which they are checked with weight.

Along the first logs of the second crown, marks are applied for the cup on the second logs of the first crown. The cups are cut down, the first logs of the second crown are placed in them and the cups are corrected, if necessary. Then marks are drawn for the longitudinal groove between the first logs of the first and second crowns, for which the legs of the line are moved apart to the depth or height of the groove. One leg moves along the lower log, the second along the upper one, but these risks must be transferred to the cups, since their depth increases with the depth of the groove. Such risks are carried out on both sides of each log on which a groove is selected. The log is lifted, turned upside down with the marks, notches are applied between them every 300 - 500 mm to the depth of the groove and wood is selected to the depth of the spread legs of the line.

The best shape of the groove is oval, as it covers the lower log more tightly and rests with the entire groove on it. Having selected a groove, the log is placed in place, the tightness of its fit is checked and corrections are made. The tighter the groove fits on the log, the warmer it will be and will require less thermal insulation materials. It is unacceptable when the groove only covers the log with its edges. This leads to increased settlement and warping of the walls of the house. Figure 94 shows good and bad groove shapes.

Thus, cutting of the crowns is carried out sequentially. The cutting of beams is described in the “Floors and Ceilings” section.

Cutting walls “in the paw” (Fig. 95) is more difficult than “in the claw”. Corner connections require more careful execution, otherwise the corners may turn out colder. Often such corners are covered with boards, stuffed with thermal insulation material.

Rice. 93. Performing operations when cutting “into the edge”:

A - marking the cup; b- cutting out the cup; V - groove marking; G - cutting out an oval groove (the dotted line shows the boundaries of the groove); 1 - line; 2 - marking line; 3 - groove boundary; 4 - groove depth; 5 - notches; 6 - groove

Rice. 94. Shape of grooves:

1 - good; 2 - bad

Rice. 95. Cutting the corners of walls “in the paw” and the procedure for marking it: 1 - groove; 2 - thorn

When starting cutting, all ends of the logs are first cut to a length of 1 - 1.5 diameters into four edges, giving them the shape of a square beam, but with exactly the same cross-section. After this, the thickness of the edge is measured at each hewn end of the log. Then the end and vertical sides of the hewn ends are divided into eight equal parts and lines parallel to the hewn sides are drawn through the division points and the resulting edges are marked with the letters AB, VG, DE and ZHZ. On the top and bottom of the AB edge, Va parts of it are laid, on the VG and DE edges - 2/8 parts each, and on the ZhZ edge - by % of the part. Then they connect the designated points with straight lines and get the edges of the “paw”, equal to 6/8 along AB, 4/z along VG and DE, and 2/8 of the side of the beam along ZhZ.

Carefully and accurately cut off the excess wood to obtain a paw (see Fig. 95). The groove is marked and selected in the same way as when cutting “in the clear.”

To prevent the logs from shifting, a hidden or root tenon is placed “in the paw” measuring about 1/3 of the width and length of the paw. The spike is placed close to inner corner(Fig. 96).

Rice. 96. Cutting corners of walls “in the paw” with a root spike

Rice. 97. Laying and fastening beams in walls: A- one beam; b - two beams

For the installation of attic and interfloor ceilings, beams are cut into the walls. In the outer walls, their ends are secured with a frying pan, and in the inner walls with a semi-frying pan (see Fig. 47). If the beams have to be placed opposite each other, then they are not placed end-to-end, but cut into the entire thickness of the wall (Fig. 97).

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