Almost all owners of country houses and dachas are familiar with the water station, because it is it that allows them to be independent from the centralized system. But not everyone knows what to do if the unit has stopped performing its direct functions - it does not build up pressure and does not turn off in time. That is why, in order to reduce the discomfort from a station breakdown, we will talk about the most common causes of the indicated malfunctions and figure out how to properly eliminate them on our own. Next, we bring to your attention not only the theoretical basis, but also a useful video of the repair work being carried out.
How does pressure affect the operation of the station?
Why are pressure indicators generally important for the functioning of a water station? In order to understand this issue, let’s get acquainted with the structure and operating principles of the unit.
The main component of the station is the pump, thanks to which water is pumped. Its engine has one serious drawback - every time the pump is turned on, it experiences an overload. As a result, when the station is started frequently, the engine quickly becomes completely unusable. To prevent such a negative phenomenon, it is necessary to reduce the number of pump starts - for this, the station is equipped with a practical hydraulic accumulator in which water accumulates.
Construction of a water station
The pressure to fill the tank with water is created by the force of air. However, this operating scheme does not make it possible to use level sensors, so the switching on and off processes are regulated by the pressure in the water supply. For this purpose, the equipment is equipped with another important device - a pressure switch. As a result, the system functions in this way: as soon as the volume of water in the accumulator drops to a critical value, the pressure drops to a minimum level and the relay turns on the pump, and when the tank is completely filled, the pressure rises to a maximum and the relay turns off the pump.
But sometimes it happens that the pump turns on very often and does not turn off. The reason for this phenomenon is low pressure in the system. Most often, a water station cannot gain the pressure it needs for the following reasons:
- drop in pump power;
- insufficient voltage in the electrical network;
- leaks in the water supply;
- pump airing;
- accumulator problems.
We propose to consider each of these reasons in more detail.
Low pump power
Before purchasing a water station, the required pump power must be calculated taking into account the depth of the well, the volume of water used and the design features of the water supply system. But even this cannot protect against the fact that one day the power of the unit will begin to decrease.
Connecting a water station
Insufficient power of the pumping unit may be due to the following reasons:
- Wear of structural parts. Most often, the cause of the problem is the imbalance of parts: grains of sand and small contaminants accumulate between the pump shafts, which loosen the elements of the unit and prevent it from working at full capacity. The simplest solution to the problem is to install purification filters at the water inlet. The second possible reason is deformation of the rubber valve. In this case, it is recommended to completely replace the part, since even after repair the valve will not allow the pump to develop the required power.
- Decrease in water level in the well. The most rational, albeit costly, way to solve the problem is to purchase.
Advice. When buying a pump, choose a model with a power reserve in case, during the operation of the water station, you need to lay additional pipes or install new household appliances that use water.
Insufficient mains voltage
Power outages are absolutely not uncommon in rural areas. Unstable voltage in the network has a negative impact on all devices powered by electricity, and water stations are no exception: due to insufficient voltage, the unit cannot fill the accumulator tank full, and then build up the required pressure and turn off.
The optimal solution to the power supply problem is to purchase an uninterruptible power supply and a voltage stabilizer: the first will provide the required level of power supply, and the second will protect the water station pump from sudden surges in voltage levels.
Advice. Before purchasing a pump and auxiliary equipment - a UPS and a stabilizer - it is recommended to measure the voltage in the network for 2-3 days using a multimeter to understand which devices are needed specifically in your case.
Leaks in the plumbing system
If the water station does not turn off, it means there is not enough water in it, that is, there is a leak somewhere in the water supply system.
Most often, metal pipes leak - they are affected by corrosion processes that provoke the appearance of holes. A temporary solution to the problem is to wrap the cracks with special plumbing tape. But, of course, as soon as the first opportunity arises, the deformed section of pipe should be replaced.
Leaks can also occur in the areas of threaded pipe connections and twisting of parts. In these cases, it is necessary to close the leaking areas with a sealing sealant: paste, fum tape or rubber rings.
Plastic pipes rarely leak - if this happens, it is only due to damage from freezing. To solve the problem, you should wrap the pipe in the leakage area with plumbing tape and additionally cover it with heat-insulating material.
Most equipment problems can be fixed by yourself.
Pump airing
The water station stops gaining pressure and performing its functions if air gets into the working chamber or pump line. This phenomenon is not uncommon, especially if a surface pump is used: when the water in the well drops below the permissible level or the suction hose is deformed, air inevitably enters the pumping system.
To squeeze out the air, you need to connect a special tee to the pump and release water under pressure. And subsequent actions will depend on the cause of the airing.
If the problem is in the well, you just need to lower the hose slightly below the original level or equip the pump with a float switch. If airing occurs due to deformation of the hose, you need to find all the cracks and close them with plumber's tape. In case of large holes, it is recommended to completely replace the hose.
Accumulator problems
Problems with the hydraulic accumulator of a water station can occur when:
- the pressure in the relay is incorrectly set - you need to slightly loosen the nut of the small spring, and then the unit will be able to gain the pressure it needs and turn off without delay;
Important! If loosening the nut does not help, then the relay itself is faulty and needs to be replaced with a new one.
- the rubber membrane is deformed - if water starts to drip when you press the air fitting, it means that the membrane has ruptured and should be replaced;
- there is no pressure in the tank - use a special air pump to pump air into the hydraulic accumulator chamber;
- the check valve is leaking - if the pump starts to leak when the station is not in use, it means that the check valve is clogged and needs to be cleaned.
So, here are the most common reasons why a water station stops gaining pressure and turns off in a timely manner. By understanding the nature of faults and how to eliminate them, you can not only protect yourself from discomfort due to unit breakdowns, but also free you from the need to call specialists to solve the problems mentioned above.
How to adjust the pressure switch of a pumping station: video
Water station: photo
Any malfunction of the water supply system at home is the result of an error by the organization or individual involved in its implementation. In this case, the homeowner has a good chance to learn from his mistakes by repairing the electric pump with his own hands and, with a “successful” set of circumstances, improve his health by carrying water manually for some time from the nearest water source.
Rice. 1 Well pump assembled
This sequence of actions applies to all types of pumping equipment, regardless of the location and method of installation. It should be noted that the power supply system of the pump, apart from the wires switched by switches, does not have complex circuits, so if the submersible water pump does not pump water, but starts and hums, problems with the supply of the required supply voltage in the vast majority of cases can be eliminated.
If the drainage pump or well model does not pump water, it may not start if the built-in or external condenser malfunctions and will require repair and replacement.
First of all, repair of electric pumps should begin by turning off the supply voltage, removing it from the water intake source and disconnecting the outlet hose.
When reconnecting, the reasons why the pump does not work can be divided into several areas according to the location of the manifestation - we will consider them below.
Rice. 2 Water supply scheme for a private house
Malfunctions of pump protection systems
Typically, a properly assembled water supply system and high-quality pumps have devices that prevent them from operating in idle mode.
In the event of a malfunction of such protective devices: the well dry running relay and the float switches of the drains, well or sewage pump, the devices can operate in the absence of water.
Sometimes the float switch of well or drainage pumps, due to improper installation, does not fall along with a drop in the water level (it gets on a hillock or clings to a protruding object) - this leads to the electric pump operating in idling mode and its further failure.
Rice. 3 Popular Gilex pump with float switch Vibration pumps, which usually do not have external protective devices connected to the system, operating for a long time without water after its level drops, can fail in the absence of built-in thermal protection.
Depressurization or breakage of the water main
The malfunction will help to identify the removal of the deep pump from the water intake source and connection to the supply voltage on the surface. If the pump, lowered into the water for testing, pumps water with the required pressure, then you should look for a leak at the place where the hose is connected to the outlet pipe or in the pipes that are laid underground for regular water supply at home (in a house, a leak can be easily noticed by the presence of water on the floor in a room with pumping equipment).
Mismatch between pump parameters and water intake source
During the dry season or with a sharp increase in water consumption, a situation may occur when the well or well does not have time to fill (the flow rate of the source is too low for normal operation of the pumping equipment). In this case, the electric pump will operate in dry running mode for some time in the absence of a similar relay or float switch in the system.
Clogged water intake system
A very common reason for the lack of water when the pump is running. Similar malfunctions can occur during the installation of pumping equipment: dirt and foreign objects can penetrate into the pipes. During operation, the screens and replaceable filter cartridges become clogged.
Fig.4 Clogged electric pump disassembled The filters and impeller of the impeller of submersible devices need regular cleaning during operation - if this does not happen, over time they become clogged and the operating pump hums, but does not pump water or does so with low pressure.
A situation often occurs when the pump actuator stops completely when clogged - the impeller does not rotate, and the vibration pump piston does not move. A clogged well or drainage pump removed from a water intake tank does not pump water when turned on superficially - do-it-yourself repairs will require disassembling and further cleaning of the device mechanism.
The pump has failed
The biggest problem that can happen to an electric pump is the burnout of the winding, and the device usually cannot be repaired (rewinding the winding with your own hands is difficult, and in a workshop the cost of work and materials will not be comparable to the price of the electric pump).
With this malfunction, the electric pump will hum, but will not be able to pump water.
Fig.5 Vibration pumps under repair Sometimes the impeller of borehole and well pumps may break, the check valve system may fail (they will not allow water to pass through) and the piston ring of vibration models may fail.
Due to constant vibrations during operation, vibration pumps are subject to loosening and unwinding of the mounting mechanism of the composite body, the fixing nuts of the check valve and the piston. These factors can lead to the loss of functionality of a working electric pump, which will hum but not pump water.
Violation of the operating rules for submersible pumps, errors in the installation of the water supply system, a sharp increase in water intake and a decrease in the flow rate of a well or borehole can lead to the hum of a working electric pump, in which water will not flow to the consumer. In most cases, you can repair electric pumps yourself if you remove the device to the surface to accurately determine the problem area.
A pumping station is a complex of components and assemblies located on the surface or in a building, interconnected, providing constant pressure and water supply to plumbing fixtures.
The equipment is constantly in working order, even if the flow of liquid is stopped. Seconds pass between the standby mode and the immediate activation of the device. Of course, this manner of operation can lead to breakdown of the main components, which will require repair of the pumping stations.
The unit is very different from a submersible, primarily in its volume and operating principle. Working elements of the complex:
- Powerful pump. It is she who lifts the liquid from the depths of the well or well and supplies it to the water supply network. All other elements ensure its proper operation. The first and only purpose is to pump out liquid from an aquifer.
- Hose or pipe. The torque of the impeller creates a vacuum environment inside the hose, and water rushes upward to the impeller. Here it is captured and pushed further into the system.
- Check valve. It is located on the hose near the unit itself or directly in the well. Designed to stop the liquid after turning off the pump.
- Coarse filter. It looks like an iron or plastic plug with a mesh base. Detains large and small particles of silt and clay depending on the cell size. Protects equipment from clogging, especially the impeller.
- Relay for measuring pressure in the line. Without this device the device will not work. The sensor is installed at the base of the expansion tank. When water is drawn in, the pressure in the system drops, the relay registers this process and commands the pump to turn on. Therefore, the power cable does not go directly to the network, but passes through the pressure sensor. The inclusion step is 1.5–2 points.
- Pressure gauge. Serves as a pressure controller in the system. Shows any changes after turning the unit on and off.
- Expansion tank. Regulates the smooth start of the pump. Without it, the equipment will work jerkily, constantly turning on and off.
Common faults and their solutions
The pump does not turn on
Check the correct connection and connection of the unit cable to the outlet or control panel. The equipment includes a special pressure control relay, which is responsible for the timely activation of the pump.
The cause of the malfunction may lie in incorrect adjustment of the pressure valve. By unscrewing the steering wheel completely, we reduce the pressure to 0. If we consume water in this state, the pump will not work, since it is already zero.
A device that has been standing for a long time may have oxidation of the contacts.
Does not turn off after stopping water intake
The check valve installed on the pipe is faulty. During operation, the unit draws water from and supplies it to the tank and the water supply system. Fluid consumption stops and the pump turns off. The water remaining in the pipe goes into the well, where it hits a check valve.
Consequently, if the damper does not work, the water goes underground, a loss of pressure occurs and the station reacts with lightning speed, turning on the pump. The liquid rests against a closed plumbing fixture and falls again, creating the effect of a constantly running engine.
Replacing the valve may solve the problem.
Frequent pump activation
Indicates a faulty hydraulic accumulator. In normal operating mode, there is constant movement of water in the tank. The air membrane creates pressure, and the automation relay sends a signal to operate the pump motor. If the seal of the tank body or the pipe system itself is broken, a drop in pressure occurs. To reach the desired level, the pump is constantly turned on. The rubber bulb inside the accumulator may rupture and the water will begin to siphon.
It is possible to fix the problem only by completely replacing the expansion barrel.
Equipment shuts down frequently
The reason is that the nodes are not configured correctly. If power is supplied and the unit operates, but immediately turns off, then functions again, the pressure control relay is configured incorrectly.
In the sensor body, in addition to the pressure gauge and the power button, there are two steering wheels. The first regulates the upper cut-off threshold and the lower turn-on threshold of the pump. The second sets the work step. By rotating these two thumbs, you can independently adjust the torque of the wheel.
Water coming from the discharge pipe comes with air
The first cause of a malfunction is a violation of the tightness of the unit or devices associated with it. Proper operation of the pump ensures uninterrupted water supply to a private home from a well. The appearance of cracks or gaps in joints, joints or housing leads to an inevitable loss of tightness. The liquid will mix with air entering through the cracks.
The solution is to check and replace components that violate the integrity of the system.
The second reason is the lack of the required water level in the well. The hose supplying liquid from the shaft is located above the level and, along with it, constantly draws in the air formed inside the shaft.
The solution is to lower the hose.
The water flows in jerks, the flow is constantly interrupted
The mirror (column) in the well is constantly changing, sometimes rising, sometimes falling. This process depends on correct calculation. The power of the unit may be greater than the ability of the aquifer to fill the cavity. That is, five minutes of operation of the device completely drains the shaft, then a standby mode begins when the motor runs dry. During this time, the water rises again and is drawn into the hose.
The solution is to replace the pipe immersed in the well with a smaller diameter.
The pump hums, but the impeller does not rotate
A complex case that requires detailed diagnostics. The failure is most likely due to the inability of the motor to spin the wheel. This happens when the station has stood idle for a long time and the disk has become stuck or its edges have rusted.
Diffuser replacement:
Detailed analysis:
... Water cannon pump in the well, after installing the new filter, there was initially pressure, then the taps began spitting water and air...Questions:
1) Then - how long does it take?
2) If the filter is a cartridge, have you tried pulling out a new cartridge and trying to turn on the pump without it? Suddenly it (the filter cartridge) managed to become quite clogged with dirt during the time called “then”.
Regarding air spitting:
1) Did you happen to look into the well while spitting? What if the pump managed to pump out some water and became naked?
2) By chance, is a storage water heater worth it? If it's worth it, then not confused by chance after winter connection hot and cold tubes?... the pressure on the pressure gauge drops and if earlier at 1.5 bar it pumped 3 bar into the system, now it drops below 1 bar. then it is pumped very smoothly, but there is still a thin stream in the taps...Let's decide.
Previously your system worked like this. The tap was opened, the pressure dropped to 1.5 bar, the pump turned on and when open tap maintained some pressure, for example about 2 -2.2 bar. When the tap was closed, the pressure in the system increased to 3 bar and the pressure switch turned off the pump, right?
And now, when the pressure drops to 1.5 bar, the pump turns on, but the pressure continues to drop and may drop to 1 bar, right?
And one more thing. If earlier working the pump maintained a normal stream from the tap, but now it is a thin stream.Naturally, a significant leak in the connecting fitting will undoubtedly weaken the flow from the taps, but...
The hole in the fitting or pipeline is noticeable (water peeing), that's it.
Second. If the pipeline is leaking, after the pump reaches 3 bar and turns off, the pressure gauge will show a drop in pressure even with the water taps closed.
Are you seeing something similar?Regarding the influence of the taxiway on the thickness of the jet.
The RD serves only to turn the pump on and off. Influence the thickness of the jet can't, though with a small caveat. The disclaimer is as follows. Suddenly, the contacts on your taxiway are badly burnt, or the wires are not screwed on tightly. Then yes, due to the voltage drop on these bad boys, the pump motor does not rotate at full power. The result is a thin stream. We check by measuring the voltage at the output of the RD.
By the way, reduced voltage in the home network can also give a weak stream. Did you happen to check the voltage?Usually a bad stream from the faucet when rotating pump is:
a) faulty pump;
b) dirty filters, clogged pipelines, faucets clogged with deposits, especially aeration mesh at the ends of the faucets, crushed (by an inept hand) gaskets, etc., etc.;
c) reduced voltage;
d) there is not enough water in the well, the pump is exposed;
e) faulty OK (check valve).P.S.
A diagram of your water supply system is highly desirable. It is better in the form of a schematic drawing, but it can also be done in words. For example like this.
A well, a 3m water column, at least a meter of water above the pump.
Pump -> fitting -> OK -> fitting -> HDPE-32 pipe -> fitting -> outlet to RD and GA -> filter -> etc. etc.
Submersible pumps have to operate in difficult conditions. They are constantly exposed to water, vibration, low temperature, abrasive particles, etc. But despite the fact that the units are made from parts with a large margin of safety, various malfunctions appear in them over time. To repair water pumps with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the main symptoms indicating certain breakdowns in the equipment.
If malfunctions are noticed in the operation of a submersible pump, it does not always need to be removed from the well for inspection. This recommendation only applies to pumping stations where pressure switch installed. It is because of this that the device may not turn on, not turn off, or create poor water pressure. Therefore, the functionality of the pressure sensor is first checked, and only after that, if necessary, the pump is removed from the well.
Important! In the case of submersible pumps operating without hydraulic accumulators, they should always be removed from the shaft at the slightest sign of failure.
It will be easier to diagnose water pump malfunctions if you first become familiar with the most common breakdowns of this unit.
Pump doesn't work
The reasons that the pump does not work may be the following.
- Electrical protection has tripped. In this case, you should disconnect the device from the network and turn on the machine again. If it knocks out again, then the problem should not be looked for in the pumping equipment. But when the machine is turned on normally, do not turn on the pump again; you must first find the reason why the protection was triggered.
- Fuses blown. If after replacement they burn out again, then you need to look for the cause in the power cable of the unit or in the place where it is connected to the electrical network.
- The cable has been damaged, located under water. You should remove the device and check the cord.
- The pump protection against dry starting has tripped." Before starting the device, make sure that it is immersed in liquid to the required depth.
Also, the reason that the device does not turn on may lie in the incorrect operation of the pressure switch installed in the pumping station. It is necessary to adjust the starting pressure of the pump motor.
The pump works, but does not pump
There may also be several reasons why the device does not pump water.
- Shut-off valve is closed. You should turn off the device and slowly open the tap. In the future, you should not start the pumping equipment with the valve closed, otherwise it will fail.
- The water level in the well has dropped below the pump. It is necessary to calculate the dynamic water level and immerse the device to the required depth.
- Check valve stuck. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the valve and clean it, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
- Intake filter clogged. To clean the filter, the hydraulic machine is removed and the filter mesh is cleaned and washed.
Low device performance
Advice! If the performance of pumping equipment drops, you should first check the voltage in the network. It is precisely because of its reduced value that the engine of the unit cannot gain the necessary power.
Reduced performance also causes:
- partial clogging of valves and faucets installed in the water supply system;
- partially clogged lift pipe of the device;
- pipeline depressurization;
- incorrect adjustment of the pressure switch (applies to pumping stations).
Frequently turning on and off the device
This problem occurs if the submersible pump works in conjunction with a hydraulic accumulator. In this case, frequent starts and stops of the unit may be caused by the following factors:
- the pressure in the hydraulic tank has dropped below the minimum (by default it should be 1.5 bar);
- the rubber bulb or diaphragm in the tank has ruptured;
- The pressure switch is not working correctly.
Water is supplied with pulsation
If you notice that water from the tap does not flow in a constant stream, then this is a sign that the water level in the well has decreased below the dynamic level. It is necessary to lower the pump deeper if the distance to the bottom of the shaft allows this.
You can hear the hum of the machine, but the water does not pump
If the pump hums and water is not pumped out of the well, there may be several reasons:
- “gluing” of the device’s impeller with its body occurred due to long-term storage of the device without water;
- the engine start capacitor is faulty;
- the voltage in the network dropped;
- The pump impeller is jammed due to dirt accumulated in the device body.
The unit does not turn off
If the automation does not work, the pump will work without stopping, even if excessive pressure is created in the hydraulic tank (as can be seen from the pressure gauge readings). It's all to blame pressure switch, out of order or incorrectly adjusted.
Nuances of breakdowns depending on the brand of pump
When operating pumps from different manufacturers, it was noticed that some brands of devices often suffer from the same breakdowns. It follows from this that these models of units have their own distinctive features in terms of the occurrence of malfunctions.
Aquarius
Aquarius pumps have predisposition to overheating, especially if they work in shallow wells. If a cheap model breaks down, repairing it costs approximately 50% of the cost of a new device. If the device fails, it is easier to throw it away than to repair it.
Grundfos
Most models from this manufacturer have valve system. There is also special thermal insulation around the engine. Sometimes pump malfunctions occur due to failure of the listed parts. Since the thermal insulation gasket is located around the motor, it will need to be removed from the housing for repairs.
Baby
“Malysh” devices are products of domestic manufacturers. The cost of repairing units of this brand is not high, and the owners of the devices fix most of the breakdowns themselves. The main failure that often occurs in this pump is the occurrence of loud noise when the hydraulic machine operates without pumping out liquid. This behavior of the apparatus means that a rupture has occurred in the central axis holding the anchor and the membrane.
Gilex
The engine in vortex and rotary type pumps “Dzhileks” is oil-filled. Therefore, frequent breakdowns of these units are oil leaking from the engine. It can only be topped up at a service center.
Important! Many on the Internet advise using transformer oil or regular glycerin instead of the original oil filler. Doing this is highly discouraged, of course, unless you have set yourself the goal of ruining your equipment in an unusual way.
Brook
There is an opinion that the operation of the “Rucheek” drainage pumps can continue without stopping for 7 hours or more. This is explained by the peculiarity of their design, which meets all European standards. But despite this, the device exposed to overheating as well as pumps from other manufacturers. Therefore, it is recommended to give it time to “rest” after every 2-3 hours of operation of the device.
Marquis (Marcus)
Owners of the Marcus well pump sometimes notice that the device turns on only after a slight blow either to the pipe going to it, or after a blow to the hydraulic machine itself. This malfunction is explained by “ souring of the impeller, which will have to be cleaned by disassembling the unit.
How to disassemble a unit to diagnose a breakdown
If the pump breaks down and requires replacement of parts located inside its housing, the unit will need to be disassembled. A submersible pump consists of a motor compartment and a compartment with one or more impellers, the purpose of which is to capture water. Below is a diagram of the structure of that part of the centrifugal pump where the impellers are installed.
As can be seen from the figure, the impellers are installed on the shaft of the unit. The more there are, the higher the pressure created by the pump. In the second compartment of the hydraulic machine there is rotary engine. It is in a sealed case, and to open it, you need to know some nuances.
So, to move from theory to practice and disassemble the pump, follow these steps (depending on the manufacturer, the design of the unit may differ).
- Unscrew the 2 screws holding the device grid.
- Remove the screen and rotate the motor shaft by hand. If it does not spin, then the problem may be either in the engine compartment or in the pumping part of the device.
- First you need to disassemble the pumping part of the device. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the power cable channel and disconnect it from the device body.
- Next, you should unscrew the 4 nuts holding the pump flange.
- After unscrewing the fasteners, separate the pumping part of the device from the engine. At this stage, it is possible to determine in which section the jamming occurred. If the pump compartment shaft does not rotate, then it is necessary to disassemble this unit.
- Unscrew all the fasteners holding the lower flange of the pump part of the unit.
- An adapter must be screwed into the fitting located at the top of the block, which will help protect the thread from damage.
- Secure the pump in a vice.
- Having selected a suitable tool, unscrew the lower flange.
- Now you can pull out the impeller assembly and inspect it to identify any problems.
- Next, you should check the support shaft for wear or play.
- To replace (if necessary) the impellers, you need to fix the shaft in a vice and unscrew the top nut.
- At the next stage, the blocks are removed, washed and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.
- Reassembling the pump part of the device is carried out in the reverse order.
- To disassemble the electric motor, it also needs to be secured in a vice.
- Next, you should remove the plastic flange protection by unscrewing the fasteners.
- Remove the retaining ring holding the cover in place using pliers.
- Remove the cover using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove the rubber membrane from the housing.
- Remove the capacitor.
- At this stage, you can check the oil level, its quality, identify the cause of jamming, etc. The engine block is assembled in the reverse order.
Replacement and repair of faulty parts
Now that you know how to disassemble a hydraulic machine, you can try to repair a submersible pump yourself.
Basically, impeller blocking occurs due to hammering them with sand or due to the formation of a coating of dirt on them. In addition, the impellers can be soldered together when a high temperature occurs in the block when the pump is idling (dry running). To repair this section of the unit, it is necessary to remove the impeller(s) and remove accumulated dirt. If the impellers are damaged, they will need to be replaced with new ones.
Engine
It is not recommended to independently repair the pump motor, since diagnosing this unit and subsequent repairs requires special knowledge and the necessary equipment.
In some pump models, removing the motor will require pressing it out using special equipment. Replacing the oil seal and bearing also carried out at the service center.
If the engine hums and won't start, then you should check the capacitor. It is located in the pump block in which the motor is installed.
Advice! Before disassembling the engine block, try turning the engine shaft with the pump block disconnected. If the shaft rotates, then the reason may be that the impellers are jammed.
But when the shaft with impellers rotates without problems, then in order to eliminate the hum in the water pump, you should disconnect the capacitor and replace it with a new one. Of course it's better check this part with a multimeter, since similar symptoms can be caused by a short circuit in the motor windings.
The water pump motor is located in a special glass filled with oil, and by its condition it is possible to determine some breakdowns in the electric motor block.
- The oil has a characteristic, unpleasant odor. This means that the engine is still in working condition, but was working under heavy overloads.
- Cloudy oil– water has entered the engine housing due to a crack in the housing or failure of the oil seal (cuff).
- Black oil with an unpleasant odor. In this case, we can say with great confidence that the varnish was burning on the engine coils.
Important! Normally, the oil should be transparent. Its quantity is determined by the model of the unit. On average, the volume of oil poured into the chamber is 0.5 liters.
If, when opening the engine, the above changes in the quality of the oil were noticed, then you first need to repair this unit, and only then fill in new lubricant.
What is the phenomenon of cavitation
Everyone knows what is dissolved in water some gases. When a liquid moves at a certain speed, rarefaction zones sometimes form in it. In these areas of low pressure, gas bubbles begin to emerge from the water. Once the bubbles enter the high-pressure zone, they collapse. This process occurs with the release of a large amount of energy, which destroys the impellers and volute of the pump. The following photo shows a unit impeller destroyed by cavitation.
The energy of collapsing bubbles can create shock waves causing vibration. It spreads throughout the entire unit and affects not only the impeller, but also the bearings, shaft and seals, causing these parts to quickly become unusable.
The cavitation effect can most often be observed in pumping stations that operate on suction. In such systems, the impeller creates a vacuum, due to which water rises through the hose from the well. But if there is a lack of liquid at the pump inlet, then excessive vacuum occurs in the impeller area, causing cavitation.
Important! The most obvious signs of cavitation are vibration of the pipes and the pump itself, as well as increased noise during its operation. If no measures are taken to eliminate this process, it can completely destroy the station.
To prevent cavitation from occurring in pumps, you should adhere to the following rule: there must be more water at the inlet than at the outlet. This can be achieved in several ways:
- you should move the device a little closer to the source;
- you can increase the diameter of the suction pipe (hose);
- to reduce resistance in the suction section, the suction pipe can be replaced with a pipe made of a smoother material;
- if there are many turns in the suction pipe, then, if possible, their number should be reduced;
- It is desirable that all bends have large turning radii.
Advice! The suction hose of the station should not be lowered into the well to a depth of more than 8 meters. Typically, the maximum immersion depth of the hose (pipe) is indicated in the equipment manual.