The harvest you will harvest from your garden beds in the fall depends on many factors. One of the most important is how well the soil was prepared in the spring.
Sowing and planting of cold-resistant crops is carried out when the soil is in soft plastic condition, i.e. easily rolls into a non-disintegrating bundle and does not stain your hands. During this period, the soil has already warmed up sufficiently and contains the optimal amount of moisture. Don’t miss the moment, because the soil will remain in this state for only 2 weeks!
Hard plastic the state is defined as follows: when the soil is rolled, it disintegrates into small pieces, but still forms a coherent lump when squeezed. In this case, with a lack of moisture, the conditions for seedlings worsen.
And if, when squeezed, a lump of soil does not change shape and the pieces do not stick together, then the soil has turned into hard the condition and conditions for seed germination and seedling survival are very poor, since there is no moisture in the top layer of soil.
You are just at the beginning of your journey. But, as they say, as it begins, so it goes. So take the question spring training soil with all the seriousness to avoid problems in the future.
Carrot bed For spring sowing It is recommended to cook in the fall. Comfortable bed size for growing carrots:
— width 90 cm,
— height 15-20 cm.
In autumn, the soil in the garden bed for carrots should be dug up, leveled and fertilized.
Fertilizing the soil in autumn
Bed for planting carrots in spring, as mentioned earlier, are formed in the fall. Adding minerals and organic fertilizers under carrots(immediately before planting) does not have the best effect on root crops.
It is strictly forbidden to apply it under carrots in spring. fresh manure. When adding manure to the soil, it is recommended to plant carrots in this place only after 2 years. It is recommended to grow carrots as a 2nd crop after applying manure (after growing cucumbers, onions, early cabbage, early potatoes).
Earth in the fall you need to dig up (depth - at least 20, optimally - 30-40 cm), select pebbles, and even better - sift. Carrots love loose soil, and if during active growth bumps into obstacles, becomes crooked and splits into two.
Carrots will definitely like it bed from a mixture of peat (sawdust or pine needles) and sand, which also needs to be sifted. For one bucket of peat, take half a bucket of sifted sand and a 1-liter jar of ash. In such a bed, a vegetable can grow for 3-4 years. The advantages of soil prepared specifically for carrots are that there are no weed seeds in it and it is perfectly saturated with oxygen, which is so necessary for the formation of high-quality root crops. To replenish such soil, it is necessary to add chlorine-free potassium in the spring during pre-sowing preparation soil in the amount of 1/2 cup per 1 linear meter.
In the reference book “Vegetable garden. Practical advice»recommend:
- fertilize nutrient-poor soil in the fall by digging 3-4 kg per 1 sq.m of humus;
- harrow 2-3 cups per 1m2 of wood ash.
Acidic soil is enriched with dolomite flour in the fall at the rate of 20-30 g per 1 m2. In the spring, as soon as the soil has dried, it is disinfected with a solution copper sulfate based on 1 tbsp. spoon into a 10-liter bucket of water and dig it up. It is convenient to spray the product from a watering can with a strainer attachment.
How to fertilize carrots in the spring when planting in the garden?
In the spring, preparing the soil for planting seeds It is recommended to start 10-12 days before sowing. If the soil is very depleted, it is permissible to add humus (but it is better to do this in the fall) and dig deep.
Fertilize carrots before planting in open ground(in spring, a week before planting) in small doses:
- nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-20 g per 1 m2;
- phosphorus and potash fertilizers at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2;
- lime at the rate of 300-500 g per 1 m2 (for acidic soils);
- complex mineral fertilizers - nitroammofoska or nitrophoska at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons per 1 m2.
After making mineral fertilizers In the spring, the soil is dug up so that the substances are at a depth of 15 cm (this way they will not burn the roots of the plant). After digging, the soil in the carrot bed is leveled with a rake and beds are formed.
For planting seeds, grooves are formed with a depth of 1.5 - 3 cm. The distance between the grooves is 20 cm. The distance between seeds is 2-4 cm.
Watch the depth of the grooves: if they are too deep, the seeds will not germinate; too small - the seeds will be scattered by the wind.
During growth, carrots are fertilized separately.
Sources: country literature, reference books for gardeners and gardeners, Internet
It is usually customary in the spring to once again dig up the vegetable garden and garden, turning over layers of earth. I am an opponent of this concept, so I won’t talk about how to dig. A bad thing is not a cunning thing. If, out of habit, you decide to ruin your land-nurse by digging, you can cope without advice.
I want to talk about how to prepare the soil for planting without using a shovel or cultivator.
How to ensure soil looseness?
Of course, it is better to take care of the looseness of the soil in the fall. But if suddenly, for some reason, you decided only at the beginning of the season that you would stick to Organic Farming and if you don’t dig any more, you can make up for lost time, albeit partially.
As soon as the snow melts, it is necessary to immediately sow the entire sown area with green manure.
Oats and rye are good at loosening the soil to great depths with their roots. And phacelia and white mustard, although they do not have deep roots, but they produce abundant green mass, which can then be used as mulch.
- For heavy soils that silt or cake over the winter, I would advise sowing oats or rye.
- For lighter soils, sand or sandy loam, it will be enough to sow phacelia, vetch, mustard or oilseed radish.
To prepare the soil for planting green manure seeds in the ground, there is no need to dig up the garden. It is enough to spray it with a regular squeegee or use Fokina flat cutter. It is necessary to bury the seeds only 0.5 - 2 cm deep into the soil.
You can sow/scatter seeds on uncultivated soil and only then weed the area. When the sapa will break top layer soil to a depth of 5 cm, some of the seeds will mix with the soil and hide under it. There is no need to try to bury all the seeds. Next, you can level the soil with a rake as necessary. If the spring is dry, then after sowing green manure, the garden needs to be watered.
After a week or two, friendly green shoots should appear. It will be great if they get ahead of the emergence of weeds, leaving them not a single chance and space for development. When green manure plants reach a height of 20–25 cm, they can be mowed, leaving root system rot in the soil.
In the beds where it is planned to plant seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, melons and other heat-loving vegetables, green manure does not need to be touched until the vegetables are planted. Until time X, when it is necessary to plant the seedlings in the ground, the greenery will develop to such an extent that it will shelter the fragile seedlings from the scorching sun, wind and bad weather, and will also protect them from sudden frosts.
It is necessary to plant the seedlings in holes dug directly in the green manure; around the seedling sprout you will need to clear a space of 10–15 cm in diameter from the green manure. You can cut or pull out the green manure plants and mulch the soil around the seedlings with them. When sprouts cultivated plants become stronger and develop sufficiently, green manure will need to be carefully trimmed with a flat cutter.
The roots of green manure left in the soil will not only help loosen the soil to a sufficient depth, saturate it with air, make it water- and moisture-permeable, but also, by rotting, saturate the soil with nutrients. So there will be no need to add manure to the soil.
How to increase soil fertility?
In addition to sowing green manure, soil fertility can be increased in another way. Moreover, the method that I will now describe works more effectively in combination with green manure crops.
Meet Effective Microorganisms
You probably guess that the soil is not a dead substance, that microorganisms live in it, which break down organic matter, help plant roots breathe and receive nutrients. But there are also microorganisms that harm plants. The balance of these two forces depends only on you.
By digging up your garden and preparing the soil for planting, you inevitably reduce the amount of beneficial flora and fauna that die from sunlight and air when you turn over layers of earth.
After several years of using incorrect agricultural practices, the amount of beneficial microflora becomes so critically small that even applying tons of fertilizers and manure does not bring any benefits. desired result. And all because there is simply no one to break down these fertilizers and manure into elements accessible to plants.
My recipe for increasing soil fertility is to replenish the population of beneficial microorganisms in the soil in a timely manner.
In stores for gardeners and gardeners you can find the following preparations: "Emochki", "EM-1", "Baikal-1", "Emochki-Bokashi", "Oxyzin" or other analogues.
At the very beginning of the summer season, before sowing green manure, or even during sowing or immediately after, it is necessary to introduce effective microorganisms into the soil. To do this, you can purchase drugs in liquid form. According to the instructions indicated on the package, the contents must be diluted with water in a certain proportion. The resulting solution should be sprayed over the entire soil or watered from a watering can. If you use a sprayer, the consumption will be much less.
Effective microorganisms will come to life, multiply, and begin to process all the organic matter that is in the soil. The roots of cut green manure will also be processed.
When you sow or plant the main crops, the nutrients will already be ready for them, which will also be in a form accessible to the plants for absorption.
How to protect yourself from diseases and pests?
Spring has only just begun, but you need to take care of preserving the health of your future harvest now. You should not wait for pests or signs of disease to appear on your plants; it is better to prevent all this from happening.
Perhaps you thought that I would now tell you how to poison mole crickets and larvae chafer. But you were wrong. I am not a supporter of the use of chemical insecticides and other drugs that poison the soil, and with it our future harvest. Any problem can be dealt with using biological drugs.
Meet:
- Metarizin– an effective biological product based on a fungus that destroys mole crickets, cockchafer larvae, wireworms and other pests living in the soil. He does this gradually, during the season, but for a long time - for several years.
Metarizin can be applied directly to the soil early spring together with any other biological products or fertilizers. IN unique composition The product contains sodium humate, which increases soil fertility and at the same time develops immunity from diseases in plants.
- Agrosin– the drug improves the soil structure. If you treat the soil with Agrozin before or during planting, the plants will quickly grow and then produce beautiful bountiful harvest.
Metarizin and Agrozin can be added to the soil at any time. The preparations are diluted in water, then they can be sprayed on the soil or watered from a watering can. The use of these drugs is the key to your peace of mind for several years. And good harvests will not keep you waiting.
In conclusion, I would like to note that all of the listed measures for preparing the soil for planting seeds or seedlings work well in combination. Green manure, effective microorganisms and biological products will provide you with an abundant harvest of organically pure food products, and you will not waste extra time to combat annoying pests and add manure or mineral fertilizers to the soil.
This article discusses beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to make for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn to combine vegetable crops in one bed and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical recommendations for beginner gardeners.
Design proper beds in the garden will solve many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner summer cottage:
- protection against soil erosion in the garden when falling out large quantity precipitation or watering plants. The edges of the bed will remain in place nutritious soil, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles or streaks;
- the possibility of forming the basis for the creation of a temporary greenhouse on spring period. By installing high sides as fences, a multi-layer bed can be organized inside the structure, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result will be a neat greenhouse house;
- improvement appearance vegetable gardens due to orderly and even plantings with beautiful framing;
- creating boundaries to prevent the spread of weeds.
Making your own beds from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the planting area, thanks to this weeds And harmful plants are unable to spread widely. If the garden fence is dug to a greater depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds, which are unable to overcome this barrier, can no longer penetrate into the garden bed.
Pay attention! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and creeping wheatgrass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering large distances underground if left unconstrained.
Photo interesting designs beds, recommendations for their creation. Tips for Designing the Unusual landscape design on the site.
The most best place is an area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where there is shade in the morning or during the day. If the proposed construction area is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a vegetable garden.
How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design
The design of the beds is selected at an early stage of planning, when a place for the vegetable garden has already been selected.
Each type of beds has certain advantages:
- raised or - the most efficient designs which are best suited for growing vegetable crops. Construction materials they are not expensive to create, and the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determine how much effort and time will be required to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of boards. You can find photos on the Internet bulk beds with your own hands, such structures do not have fencing. They also fall into the category of elevated structures;
- Container beds - will be beneficial in cases where site space is limited. Small, large and medium-sized pots are suitable for organizing such beds. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and herbs feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which can be moved to any location if desired;
- beds in open ground- the oldest method of growing crops that are planted directly into the ground. In such conditions it is more difficult to obtain good harvest, so technology is often used joint landing vegetables in the garden.
Useful advice! If you plan to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.
How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips
Raised beds are most often made from wood. This material, in comparison with others, is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Such designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds made from boards have other advantages:
- a simple maintenance system involving easy weeding, harvesting and watering of plants;
- the ability to grow vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. A frame is made from the boards, which is subsequently filled fertile soil, purchased in a store, so there is no connection to the quality of the earth and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with rocky surfaces;
- Box structures allow you to hold soil inside the bed. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of installing arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to secure these elements to the fence than to dig them into the soil;
- Even without knowing how to properly make garden beds, any summer resident can cope with the manufacture of wooden box structures. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require expensive tools;
- there is no chance that plants planted close to the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.
Pay attention! The environmental friendliness of the material allows you not to worry about getting into the ground. harmful substances. Wood is much safer than asbestos-cement sheets (slate). The exception is boards treated chemicals designed to double the service life of the material.
Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material
Summer residents most often create wooden structures based on materials found on the farm. To make beds, timber, round timber, slab, and lining can be used.
When we're talking about about purchasing boards in a store, you should pay attention special attention The type of wood from which they are made:
- a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;
- pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to rotting while in the ground, so its service life is short. By using impregnations and antiseptics, the life of pine can be extended by a couple of years;
- boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch is naturally impregnated with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its newness for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;
- Boards made from acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so its processing will be more difficult. To work with acacia you will need a powerful electric tool.
Useful advice! It is not recommended to skimp on the quality of the material. Boards made from poor wood are susceptible to rapid rotting. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the garden beds, through which fertile soil will be washed away during rains and watering of plants.
Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures
Box beds have rectangular shape and are made from boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident can handle its production. The main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.
- height– many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not intended to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where a fence height of up to 0.7 m is acceptable. The technology for manufacturing such structures requires laying multi-layer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required; it is enough to limit it to 0.15-0.2 m. Excessive height of the sides is also unprofitable in economic terms, because their construction will require a lot of boards. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time high fences will swell and lose their attractive shape;
- width – experienced summer residents It is recommended to choose a width equal to half the height of the person who will care for the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because during work a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side fence;
- length– this parameter is practically unlimited. Although it is unnecessarily long designs the level of rigidity of the side rails is reduced, so it is recommended to choose a length within 4-6 m.
Useful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds, you should take into account that between them you need to organize passages 0.4-0.6 m wide. Only after this is considered the layout of structures on the site.
Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes
The method of combining crops is very effective in practice if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, plot owners use a special table to calculate the proximity of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors and provide them with protection from pests.
The correct proximity of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table
Many summer residents note that thanks to the proximity of beans as a seal for the beds where potatoes are grown, the amount of Colorado potato beetle. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from the white butterfly. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all excessive amount marigolds in the garden can suppress the growth of cabbage.
Table of vegetable neighbors in the garden that create a successful tandem:
| Name of vegetable crop | Plants for successful combination |
| strawberries | beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce |
| kohlrabi | cucumber, lettuce, onion, beets |
| peas | carrots, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant |
| onion | tomato, celery, beets, savory, carrots |
| beans | potatoes, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant |
| cucumber | radishes, peppers, peas, cabbage, beans |
| carrot | lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas |
| salad | strawberries, cucumber, carrots, radishes |
| pepper | salad, cucumber, beans |
| tomato | calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley |
The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:
- cabbage and strawberries;
- onions and beans;
- carrots and celery, dill, parsley;
- cucumbers and potatoes.
Useful advice! In addition to the main crops, it is recommended to spot-plant spicy and ornamental grasses. Thus, the garden will not only be beautiful, but also useful.
Examples of mixed planting of vegetables in the garden: popular schemes
A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions can produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of bed. Carrots on the same area yield approximately 6 kg of yield. When growing these crops together, you can get 9 kg of vegetables from 1 m². These plants create protective barriers against pests for each other, so the efficiency of the used area increases.
Of course, planning joint cultivation crops in the garden, you need to group the plants taking into account their height, so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different heights, but also grow with at different speeds. It is desirable that the compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of multi-tiered juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds makes it possible to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also promotes rational use solar energy.
High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of 0.8x0.8 m, not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (grind first).
To get excellent results when planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. Along the row with bush beans installed so that each plant is located at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden bed. As a result, the bean and tomato bushes should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Useful advice! It is better to trim tomato stems for the winter, and as low as possible. On the contrary, it is recommended to leave beans untouched.
Table of crop rotation of vegetables in beds by crop groups
Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same bed is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good harvests.
Advantages correct construction crop rotation:
- eliminates the possibility of soil fatigue on the site, since the same vegetable absorbs the same set of soil from the soil every year nutrients and he does it from the same depth;
- the spread of diseases and pests that affect plants of the same family is prevented;
- it becomes possible to rationally use fertilizers.
The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in a garden bed involves planting plants from different families in the same area every year. The easiest way is to divide cultures into four groups:
- Leaf crops - these include various types cabbage, green onions, leaf salads, as well as spinach.
- Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, pumpkin.
- Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.
- Root vegetables - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.
Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:
| Sequence of landing by year | Recommended crops for planting | |||
| 1st bed | 2nd bed | 3rd bed | 4th bed | |
| 1 year | fruit | roots | legumes | leafy |
| 2 year | roots | legumes | leafy | fruit |
| 3 year | legumes | leafy | fruit | roots |
Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in open ground: photos and recommendations
To grow cucumbers in open ground, beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the rains and temperatures drop. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has good level air and water permeability. If the soil on the site is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the soil to facilitate loosening.
Useful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash you can use dolomite flour.
The process of preparing a bed for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. To do this, the site of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution must be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be increased by adding chicken manure or manure. This procedure carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly into the trench or hole. After this, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.
How to make a bed for cucumbers: agrotechnical secrets
To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:
- There should be no irrigation canals, streams or flowing reservoirs near the beds.
- If the planting area is not protected, it is better to place the garden in a quiet place where there are no drafts.
- Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil must be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out greatly.
- Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than those grown in closed beds.
- During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the plant's vines or turn them over.
- Weeding plants in open beds must be performed more often than is done indoors.
- It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with black film.
Cucumbers need rich biological composition soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, and food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only does the fertility of the soil increase, but also heat is released, warming the soil. To prevent high temperatures from damaging the root system of cucumbers, experienced summer residents advise abundant watering.
Interesting fact! Sometimes the decomposition of organic fertilizers occurs so actively that the soil in the garden bed warms up to 80° C. Under the influence of this high temperature Many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the soil die. As a result, natural sterilization of the soil occurs.
There are several ways to grow cucumbers in open ground. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.
How to make cucumber beds in the garden with a bookmark
To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured in. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. You can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The layer is poured warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and soil.
A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, you will not need to add compost to the top layer, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.
Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:
- convenient watering system;
- stagnation of water is eliminated;
- In the spring there is no need to dig up the soil, just loosen the soil.
Plants can be planted on such a nutrient basis much earlier than is customary in conventional beds. It is not recommended to use beds with filling in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.
Warm surface beds for cucumbers in open ground
This type warm beds for growing cucumbers, it is built on the surface of prepared soil. This technology will the best option for areas that are located in lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with film. As a result, a greenhouse effect is formed, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their productivity.
Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is filled with sand, then wood waste. Next comes a layer of organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is filled with a mixture consisting of soil.
Useful advice! Vegetable and fruit skins, fallen leaves, eggshell(ground into powder).
Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the box bed, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, the structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you will need to install plastic arcs and pull them on plastic film. Thus, heating is enhanced and it becomes possible to obtain early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.
Raised beds for cucumbers in open ground
Warm beds with a raised structure are used in cases where the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, the soil is fully warmed up, allowing the harvest to be achieved at early stages. If they get too close to the garden groundwater, the bed is raised high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil that is oversaturated with moisture. In a similar way they are planted stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater.
As borders for these structures they are used various materials. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of bed can even be installed in the middle of the lawn. If you frame it in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised vegetable garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.
As alternative solution It is possible to build a bulk hill on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed, optimal parameter width – 1 m. Do not lift decorative vegetable garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and promotes rapid heating of the soil.
To speed up the decomposition process of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria is in the spring. After treating the beds, you should wait at least a week before planting plants. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the soil has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen and the drug itself is evenly distributed.
How to make beds in the garden: video review of technology
Preparing the soil in the garden and in the garden is very important part spring work at the dacha. It is advisable to switch to the so-called. organic (natural) farming, which will not only help restore soil fertility, but also save our energy. The main thing when preparing the soil in spring is to retain valuable moisture. Harrowing is carried out in the garden; they try to cultivate the land without turning over the soil and without deep digging. Trees and shrubs are mulched in the garden, and trenches are built on the slopes to retain melt water.
How to till the soil in spring
- You cannot dig up the soil in advance - dig only just before planting or sowing.
- In spring, the soil dries out quickly: a pre-dug bed will lose its moisture supply in 3 days.
- When cultivating the soil, it is better to use a Fokin flat cutter.
- If you still can’t avoid digging the soil, dig only with a pitchfork and to a shallow depth.
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How to mulch the soil in spring
Mulching will prevent moisture loss and will also serve as an obstacle to the exit of many pests after wintering.
- Mulch in the garden tree trunk circles trees and shrubs.
- The mulch should be a layer of at least 5 cm.
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Organic or artificial materials can be used as mulch:
- non-acidic peat,
- humus,
- compost,
- sawdust,
- cardboard,
- roofing felt,
- film.
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How to retain moisture in the soil in spring
Melt water tends not only to escape from the slope itself, but also to take with it the top and most fertile layer of soil. Therefore, it is so important to carry out work to keep it in the soil.
1. Harrowing
- When you go to the dacha for the first time, if the soil is already slightly dry, it needs to be razed.
- Harrowing helps retain moisture and destroy emerging weeds.
- After some time, harrowing can be repeated.
2. Earthen ridges, holes, trenches
- If the site is on a slope, there is a possibility of losing a large amount of water during melting. To prevent this, it is necessary to create barriers in the form of earthen ridges or holes in the path of water movement.
- It’s easier to dig holes - on a slope it’s easy to make a couple of dozen holes with a depth of half a shovel bayonet and a width of about 10–15 cm.
- Melt water will accumulate in them, and will not run down the slope from the site.
- You can dig a trench across the movement of melt water, and lay the earth next to it, behind the trench - this will form a roller.
Such trenches are made in advance (in the fall or summer) and be sure to fill them with cut branches.
How to deoxidize the soil in spring
Many gardeners are interested in how and what to deoxidize the soil in the spring. The fact is that soil deoxidation is a long process and takes time. Therefore, liming is carried out in advance - during autumn soil preparation.
If you add deoxidizers in the spring just before planting, nothing bad will happen, but there will be no effect.
Nevertheless, deoxidation is an important agrotechnical technique that allows (sorrel, horsetail, wild radish) to improve the condition of the soil, stimulate the vital activity of soil microorganisms, and protect plants from the development of late blight and other dangerous diseases. It is necessary to deoxidize areas under potatoes and tomatoes, beds in greenhouses and greenhouses.
For deoxidation, lime and dolomite flour and fluff lime are traditionally used. The deoxidizer is applied to the soil according to the instructions, dug up or loosened.
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