Construction of a cesspool in a private house. Construction and calculation of a cesspool in a private house, how to make it yourself. Video review of the construction of a cesspool

Depending on the amount of water drained, you can choose the appropriate option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use a drainage pit. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a conventional pit latrine. Ready-made systems are sold that just need to be buried on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area to organize a filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– additional equipment – ​​to simplify the process you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.



2. The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
3. It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. A sand and gravel cushion is made on clay soil. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.



4. All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.



5. A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
6. A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
7. You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.



8. Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones of different sizes is poured into the formwork, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.



9. Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
10. A technical hatch with a diameter of 1 m is made, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. A ventilation pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is inserted into the second.





11. A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

Comfortable living conditions are important for residents of private houses. Therefore, along with the construction of a water supply system, it is necessary to remove waste water from the house. The equipment of such a system is called sewerage. There are many ways to do it. However, the simplest and cheapest is the construction of a cesspool. This job requires specific knowledge, skills in construction and environmental protection.

You can purchase and equip a sewer system with a septic tank or create facilities for biological wastewater treatment. However, this will require significant material costs, materials consumption and time. In addition, the installation of expensive sewer systems must be done by trained specialists.

And you can build a cesspool with your own hands inexpensively and quickly. This structure is a container or reservoir in which waste and wastewater from a private home are collected.

The main disadvantage is the need to periodically pump out water and clean the container.

This work is carried out by specialists using sewage disposal equipment, which entails additional costs.

Some home owners believe that a cesspool can be built in a place where it is more convenient and easier to do this. However, there are standards for the construction of cesspools established by law and sanitary rules. These rules are simple:

• a cesspool can only be built on the territory of a private house;
• the distance from it to the central water supply systems should be at least ten meters, and from the well at least twenty meters;
• the distance from the cesspool to the foundation of a residential building must be at least ten meters, and from eight to ten meters to the neighbor’s house;
• The depth of the hole depends on the groundwater level of the site and cannot be more than three meters.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to gradual destruction of the foundation of the house if the cesspool is very close. Sources of drinking water will become unusable, which can harm human health. This will cause problems with neighbors.

You can build a cesspool with the help of professionals or do it yourself. In places of temporary residence, such as a summer house, it is not difficult to dispose of wastewater. And to build a cesspool in a private house, you will need building materials and certain material costs.

The easiest way is to bury a small container in the ground where waste and wastewater will accumulate. However, if there is a large consumption of water - bathhouse, cleaning premises, washing dishes, and so on, you will have to pump out the drains often. And this always costs money and time. Therefore, increasing the tank volume will help solve these problems.

Before starting construction, you should calculate the cesspool. Here you need to take into account the water consumption for water heating devices (washing machine, dishwasher, boiler), washbasin and bathtub. On average, each person living in a house uses up to 150 liters of water per day. And if instantaneous water heaters are used, then the consumption increases by another 30 liters.

That is, on average, a family of three uses about 500 liters of water.

If the cesspool is eight cubic meters in volume, this means that wastewater will have to be pumped out twice a month.

Cleaning the cesspool

There are several ways to clean out a cesspool:

• using a special sewer truck;
• independently with a pump or using a bucket and shovel, tested in the old-fashioned way;
• using modern biological treatment compounds.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, some owners of private houses use different tricks, experimenting with the amount of wastewater. To do this, holes are made in the cesspool to allow water to escape, which goes into the ground. These measures help to reduce the frequency of pumping a little, but the soil and groundwater are harmed. Over time, drinking water will be poisoned and unsuitable not only for drinking, but also for technical purposes. Such use of a plot of land is strictly prohibited by all legal rules . This is, in particular, stated in the cesspool section of Sanpin (sanitary rules and regulations), and persons guilty of violating these standards may be brought to administrative responsibility, which will again lead to considerable financial expenses.

After some time, solid waste fractions and fine silt will accumulate in the cesspool, and water filtration will be impaired. Thus, this trick will not give a positive result other than troubles and difficulties in further operation. The use of the pit will be discontinued. To resume further operation of the cesspool, a major overhaul will be necessary with the removal of the tank, cleaning of the pit, or the construction of a new structure in another location.

In accordance with the rules and regulations of SanPiN, the cesspool must have a solid, sealed bottom to prevent wastewater from entering the soil.

Septic tank - a profitable solution

For reliable operation of the sewerage system, experts recommend the use of a septic tank. Its action is based on the method of natural wastewater treatment.

A septic tank consists of several containers connected in series to each other using pipes. At the bottom of the first tank, solid waste residues accumulate, which are then processed by special biological compounds at the bacterial level. And the water is purified by passing through several containers.

Knowing these rules and regulations, you can more easily solve the question of how to arrange a cesspool. The procedure for constructing a cesspool includes:

• correct choice of location for the pit in accordance with SanPiN requirements;
• preparation of building materials and necessary tools;
• layout of sewer channels and cesspools on site;
• digging a pit;
• direct installation of containers for collecting and storing wastewater;
• installation of a ventilation system to prevent unpleasant odors.

Tanks for wastewater and waste can be made of various materials:

• plastic;
• monolithic reinforced concrete structure;
• prefabricated structure made of reinforced concrete rings;
• brick.

If the homeowner can build the cesspool himself, then The most acceptable option is to install a plastic septic tank. In fact, this is a ready-to-use element of the sewer system that only needs to be installed correctly. Plastic containers cost money, but they are worth it over many years of use. This septic tank must be securely secured to prevent wastewater from leaking into the soil due to depressurization of pipe connections.

When building a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, you will have to use additional equipment for installation, which means additional costs. However, such a system is durable, has good waterproofing characteristics and is reliable in operation.

A cheaper way is to build with bricks. It should be taken into account that the thickness of the walls must be at least 25 centimeters (the length of a brick), and the partitions must be 12 centimeters (half a brick). After the container is built, its walls and partitions must be treated with a waterproofing compound, for example, bituminous materials.

In the sewerage system, the role of cesspool ventilation is important. To do this, you can use a ventilation duct in the form of an asbestos-cement or plastic pipe. Such a pipe should end at approximately a height of three meters so that unpleasant odors from the pit do not create discomfort for the residents.

Another way to eliminate unpleasant odors is to use modern biological preparations. In this case, beneficial bacteria eliminate the cause of odors.

There are many ways to build sewerage systems, however, you need to choose the best option with an affordable price for constructing a cesspool. You should not save on a healthy lifestyle and living comfort. Practice shows that homeowners who use sewer construction methods that discharge wastewater into the soil still end up using civilized methods for removing waste from their homes. But this is already happening at great expense.

Why is it that in dachas where there is no centralized sewage system, they often use the most primitive type of toilet - with a bucket? Not at all out of a desire to get as much compost as possible over the summer, but because of basic ignorance of how to properly arrange a cesspool. Many simply do not want to deal with calling a sewer man, believing that they will incur the wrath of the management of the dacha cooperative. In fact, such a truck is no more than a truck crane, dump truck or concrete mixer, which are allowed to enter gardening areas: otherwise you won’t be able to build a house. And with a properly planned cesspool, you won’t often have to call sewage disposal equipment. With these arguments, it is easy to solve once and for all the organizational problem of building a cesspool.

There is another obstacle to the construction of a basic sewerage system - the fear of violating sanitary standards, which will lead to contamination of the area with putrefactive bacteria. In everyday life, people are afraid of getting a source of stench near their summer home, so they prefer to install a “green house” away from their home. But with the modest size of the dacha plots, the toilet may end up right under the neighbors’ windows. In a private house, the garden plot is larger in area, and the owner has more freedom of action. However, even here there may be a fear of building “such a complex” structure incorrectly, which will lead to disastrous consequences. However, for a sewer system such as a cesspool in a private house, the scheme is quite simple. And it depends to a large extent on the nature of the soil.

What mistakes happen when building cesspools?

A cesspool is a source of unpleasant odor, which appears as a result of the accumulation of sewage, and is also a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. It is necessary to correctly calculate the location of the well, as well as carry out its maintenance in a timely manner.

Indeed, mistakes when arranging a cesspool can lead to undesirable consequences, among which “amber” on the site is the least evil. It’s easy to deal with: the pit needs to be closed. It is this step that will allow it to be done even close to the house, but at such a distance as to ensure access for a sewage truck. At the same time, you need to build a real sewer system in the house, like in a city apartment. And to prevent bad odors from spreading from plumbing fixtures, do not forget about water seals. This is the second most common mistake when installing a sewer system in private homes: the owners understand perfectly well that the toilet must have such a valve - it is built into the design of the device - but they forget that the drainage holes of the bathtub, sink, sink and shower go into the same cesspool, and they don’t make siphons.

In a private house or country house, where the sewer system is installed by the owner himself, there is a temptation to install drain holes on the floor of the bathrooms in order to protect yourself from a hypothetical flood associated with faulty faucets or pipes. But such a hole must also contain an overflow that provides a water seal. It is necessary to ensure that the water in it does not stagnate and at the same time does not dry out. Then foreign odors will not appear.

Another mistake is the incorrect choice of depth for laying the drain pipe. You first need to find out what the level of soil freezing is, and then just plan the location of the sewer pipe at the exit from the building. Under no circumstances should the drain freeze if the house is used, even temporarily, during the winter.

Important! Do not forget that the sewer beds should not be strictly horizontal, but have a slope of at least two to three degrees per meter, otherwise there will be no natural outflow of water from the house into the cesspool.

It is important not to make a mistake with the size of the cesspool, so as not to constantly be afraid that it is about to overflow. In this case, it is advisable to calculate the volume not for the entire structure, but for that part of it that is located below the drain pipe. This volume is calculated based on the needs of the family.

You cannot build a cesspool diagram by copying it from another site, because both the soil and the soil may be different. When building a structure, you need to use the data of your site:

• geodetic;
• soil science;
• soil samples;
• depth of aquifers.

Why is a closed cesspool an incomplete cycle treatment facility?

A cesspool is a kind of septic tank that processes incoming water, but does not provide complete purification.

A closed cesspool is not just a settling tank for liquid waste: it processes the contents by anaerobic bacteria, with the exception, perhaps, of the layer that is in direct contact with the air. Anaerobic bacteria are known to perform the initial stage of converting wastewater into cleaner water. After fermentation with their participation, the water does not lose, but changes its smell - to a marshy one. The water does not become clear from this purification: the turbidity remains at this stage. Also, solid particles of mechanical suspension can settle in the pit, and if there is a desire to separate them to produce compost, then you can build a chamber with an overflow from the sump into the septic tank. Naturally, such a septic tank provides far from complete water purification, and they are also subject to disposal by a sewage disposal machine. The design of such a cesspool will be much more complicated, since it is, in fact, the simplest.

Let's return to soil research. If you find that the groundwater in your area is deep, you can turn the cesspool into a filtration well. This scheme is called a cesspool without a bottom. You can indirectly determine whether the water lies deep by this criterion: if most neighbors have dug wells rather than boreholes, it means that shallow aquifers have been found on their property. If everyone uses wells exclusively, then you need to ask how deep they are. But for a final decision, it is necessary to make sure with the help of hydrological studies. If it is not possible to carry them out, then it is better to choose a sealed cesspool scheme, since it is universal.

Cesspool in a private house. Scheme without bottom

Such a pit actually has a bottom, but it is not airtight. With this scheme, nature itself is given the opportunity to purify wastewater, much like what happens with rainwater in nature. It must be remembered that the contents of sewage drains are often a more aggressive environment than rainwater. They may contain not only soap, but also more caustic detergents, and the soil must completely process them before they reach the aquifer. To do this, it is necessary that it be at a depth of more than 2.5 meters. The nature of the soil also matters: it should be sandy loam or sandy type.

The figure shows a diagram of a cesspool without a bottom; this design assumes that there is no concrete base at the bottom of the pit, and filtration occurs naturally using natural soil.

“Entrusting” the soil with filtration is short-sighted, so the bottom needs to be covered with a cushion of fine crushed stone and sand. No more than a cubic meter of liquid should pass through such a “sieve” per day. It is always better to reinforce this permeable bottom with geotextiles. It will prevent the sand from moving, seeping between larger soil particles. If the filter is made of backfill of different fractions, it is better to layer them with water-permeable geomaterials.

Not only the shallow groundwater level, but also the large volume of discharges from the house, as well as the clayey nature of the soil, speak against the construction of such a structure. In this situation, you should build a sealed pit. As for the walls and top, these structures can be the same for pits with different types of bottom, so you can move on to studying a sealed structure.

Scheme of a sealed cesspool

If it is impossible to use a ready-made one, since a significant size of the pit is needed, you can build it yourself. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of drains (below the pipe!) and calculate the diameter of the structure. The volume is calculated based on half a cubic meter per person. But this is only the minimum, so you need to make a reserve due to the following situations:

• there may be guests in the house;
• it is impossible to ensure a timely call for a vacuum cleaner;
• a pipe breaks, which further loads the sewer system;
• it is planned to connect new appliances that require drainage: a washing machine or dishwasher, shower, etc.

This is why reserve volume is desirable. Once it is known, you need to choose the material for the walls. It can be brick or concrete - in the form of well rings. But whatever the material, the elements must be connected with a waterproof solution in order to avoid the penetration of the contents of the pit into the ground and soil, as well as the penetration of melt water into the pit, which would significantly reduce its resource. The bottom of such a pit is best made of concrete, for which you can use a specialized reinforced concrete product - the bottom of the well. It has the same diameter as well rings, but it can also be used as a bottom for a brick structure.

A sealed cesspool is a structure, usually presented in the form of a container made of concrete structures (bottom, rings, top, hatch)

For reliable waterproofing of the structure, you can use special geomembranes, which are used in the construction of building plinths. This material is easily butt-joined, but this does not mean that it does not need to be welded. The sheets connected not only by overlapping, but also by welding will provide excellent insulation from moisture from the outside. The inside of the container can be covered with waterproof cement, which was also used in the seams between rings or bricks.

How to make the top of a closed cesspool

Open cesspools carry a potential danger - the possibility of falling through, so you need to make the top of a closed pit strong, and not make do with lightweight covers. This also applies to the hatch through which cleaning will be carried out. The upper part of the structure is ideally a reinforced concrete slab. The industry produces such an element for well rings. It has a hole for a standard sewer hatch, which it is advisable to install, but only choose its modification from durable plastic. Such a lid will be easy to open, but at the same time it will not fall through, even if children play on it. Plastic covers are available in versions with a lock, which guarantees safety for children: they will never open this hatch.

If the upper part is built from a concrete slab and the hatch is made independently, then it is necessary to ensure that the lid fits tightly and is so heavy that only an adult can open it.

It is desirable that the top slab be covered with soil and soil, while the hatch itself protrudes outward. If the house is used during the snowy period, then it is necessary to provide a small height of the hatch above ground level to make it easier to find and dig out in the snow.

The image shows a diagram of creating a cesspool: preparing the pit - reinforcement - construction for formwork - erecting walls and laying pipes, creating the upper part and ventilation outlet.

To go down into the pit and clean it after pumping out sewage, the hatch must be made so that an adult can crawl into it.

How to calculate a place for a cesspool?

You can also determine the location for the structure next to the house, because it is hermetically sealed at the top. In this case, the length of the sewer pipes will be minimal. But you need to be as far away from water wells – yours and your neighbors’ – as possible. The structure should not be located near bodies of water. If the soil is clayey, then you need to retreat 20 meters from all named water sources. When it is sandy or sandy loam, it is better to retreat 50 meters, because such soil has the property of osmosis, that is, like a wick, it draws liquids into itself. For loamy soils, the distance can be reduced to 30 m.

The bottom of the pit should not be lower than 1 m to groundwater. It is better to make the area of ​​this tank larger than to deepen it too much, risking either contamination from a hole without a bottom, or the floating of a sealed container. There is always some amount of air in it, so in melted underground water it will work like a float. If there is no concrete ring of the calculated diameter, the pit can be made square or rectangular by placing a slab of waterproof reinforced concrete at the base.

Diagram of the correct location of the cesspool on the site, calculation of distance from water sources and residential premises.

You need to step back at least a meter from the fence, and from the road - just like from reservoirs. Any road has modified soil underneath. It can be compacted, replaced with a sand and crushed stone cushion, therefore, how it will behave in the vicinity of a cesspool is not known in advance.

Little tricks from the experts

If you have determined a place for a cesspool that is equidistant from all sources of water, roads, and reservoirs, then it is not a fact that you will be able to lay the pipe at the desired slope and at the same time manage to place it completely below the freezing depth of the soil. There is a way out of this situation: you need to insulate the pipe so that the water in it does not freeze. It is better to do insulation along the entire length of the pipe before it enters the container, so as not to get a “cold bridge”.

Plumber,

Ravil Rakhmatullin.

If you are building a cesspool without a bottom, then it is better to stock up on material and take the time to make it from two overflow wells. The first of them will be sealed, the second – filtration. This will produce fertile sludge that can be disposed of separately, and the risk of groundwater contamination will be much lower. It is important that the pipe between these containers must also be inclined, if they are not located next to each other, since in this case gravity flow must be ensured.

Builder,

Leonid Knyazhinov.

There is no need to copy the location of sewer facilities even from your nearest neighbor. The condition of the soil and ground, even in adjacent areas, may be different. Your neighbor has everything clean, solid soil, but you have a whole underground river or stream running through it. You also need to pay special attention to areas on slopes, because there it may happen that on one side the hole will be below the soil freezing level, and on the other - above, and if an entry is made into it from this side, it is better to insulate it.

Sergey Dlinnov.

When a sewer pipe passes through walls - in the foundation and cesspool, it is better to lay sleeves from pipes of larger diameter, and then pass the main drain pipe into them. Then even small tectonic movements will not be scary for you.

Builder,

Boris Burdyukevich

How to draw a diagram of a cesspool?

To summarize, we outline all the parameters that must be taken into account in the cesspool diagram:

Its design;
depth of groundwater;
soil and soil composition;
soil freezing depth;
site topology;
location of all sources of drinking water, roads and reservoirs;

The choice of materials is also important - plastic, brick, concrete. Creating a diagram, and based on it - drawings of a future building, is not a difficult task. And if you have construction skills, then building such a structure yourself is quite possible. If you take into account all the details, then no one will suffer from your well or septic tank: neither you nor your neighbors. If you choose a closed type of cesspool, it will be the safest and cheapest sewage system to install for a country house.

A cesspool is a special depression in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drainage pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The construction of a cesspool begins with choosing a suitable location. There are three key rules that are used to choose the optimal location:

1. the pit must be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
2. from the pit itself to the fence site the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
3. the distance to groundwater should be taken into account; it should be over 30 meters.

After this, they begin to calculate the optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

• calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of wastewater volume;
• taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily permeate liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
• it should be remembered that the soil layer must be at least 1 meter;
• the optimal depth is about 3 meters.

Materials

Nowadays the most widely used types of materials used in constructing a cesspool are:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do ;
• tractor;
• special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymer materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the diagram of a cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from falling apart, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. along the entire perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

A prerequisite is the presence of a ventilation hole equipped with a pipe to remove gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch, which will provide access to the pit for regular maintenance.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's look at the 3 simplest options for constructing a pit.

Made of brick

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit with brick lining:

1. to begin with, use thread and stakes to mark the selected area - on average, the dimensions of the hole are 1 by 1.5 meters;
2. to fill the hole at the end of the work, you will need about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil, the rest of the soil extracted during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
3. if you plan to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
4. at the bottom of the dug pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
5. With a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
6. after the concrete pad has hardened, lay a sewer pipe (if provided);
7. after this, proceed to laying the facing walls, placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using sand-cement mortar;
8. to increase the service life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
9. upon completion of the cladding work, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
10. make depressions in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
11. use corrugated sheeting to build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
12. strengthen the ceiling by using rods and reinforcement fastened together with wire;
13. evenly fill the formwork with concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
14. Carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

1. dig a pit, maintaining the most round cross-sectional shape;
2. mark the areas where the pit will be located;
3. fill the bottom with a layer of concrete mortar;
4. build a metal frame using reinforcement rods, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
5. after the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the rings;
6. the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with concrete solution;
7. the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
8. After installing all the rings, they should be covered with a concrete cover, and the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using plastic containers:

1. dig a pit, taking into account that in this case it will be significantly larger in size than in the two previous cases;
2. make the bottom as flat as possible;
3. pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom and compact it well;
4. carefully lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
5. connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
6. fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
7. Fill in a small volume of water to see how the tank compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, the tank is not installed correctly.
8. completely fill the pit with soil.

Necessary tool

The main tool for personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and for the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and rope for pulling out soil. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove soil from the pit. It is necessary to have a tape measure or other measuring device on hand. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that you will have to make a solution from cement, if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, you should allocate a separate container for preparing the required volume of solution.

Installation highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations taking into account specific needs. Then comes the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing an option with reinforced concrete rings, you should take into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure when dropped. The option with bricks and a tank can be installed manually. It should also be taken into account that to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be compacted with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which wastewater will flow, you should remember that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

• incorrect preliminary calculations of volume and location;
• insufficient pit depth;
• weak strengthening of the pit walls resulting in collapse
  walls;
• the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
• neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

Do you want to use modern methods to clean your garden toilet? In you will learn how to choose bacteria for the toilet.

The choice of sewer pipes is a very important issue. Tips and recommendations can be found at the link.

Careless work will bring bad consequences in the form of a bad smell in the house. And in winter, in severe frosts, the contents of the cesspool may completely freeze, along with the remaining water in the drain pipes. Properly completed work on the construction of a cesspool and sewage system will guarantee stable operation, creating comfortable conditions for living in the house. Let's take a closer look at how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Construction technologies

Before starting construction, it is necessary to decide on what technology the cesspool will be made.

Absorbing type is a container without a bottom. This is a profitable option. The soil of the pit will absorb wastewater well, so there is no need to spend money on calling a sewer truck. But the disadvantage of such a pit is that after rain or snow melts, a large amount of wastewater gets into the pit, and the ground does not have time to absorb it all.

Sealed type pits. The bottom of such a pit is concreted. The advantage of this design is the complete isolation of sewage; the unpleasant odor will not be heard in the yard or in the house. The inconvenience of using this type of pit is the need for frequent pumping. The sealed bottom and walls do not absorb water, and as a result of frequent use of dishwashers and washing machines, and taking baths, it quickly fills up.

They are the most modern and convenient type of cesspool. They can be made in both single-chamber and multi-chamber versions. The walls of a single-chamber septic tank can be lined with cinder blocks, and the bottom is covered with crushed stone. Seeping through the crushed stone, the water undergoes rough cleaning and is absorbed into the ground.

Note! In multi-chamber septic tanks, deeper sewage treatment takes place. Thanks to the bacteria colonized in the septic tank, treated wastewater is used for watering the garden.

Dimensions

After choosing the type of cesspool, you need to calculate its dimensions. To determine the size of the pit, you need to take into account the norms of water consumption per person. If the house is equipped with water supply and sewerage, but there is no bath, then the daily consumption will be up to 120 liters, if there is a bath - up to 180 liters, if there is a shower - up to 225 liters.

Note! The depth of the cesspool should be more than three meters.

The location of the cesspool plays an important role. The pit should be located at a distance of 5 meters from any building, and at least 30 meters from a source of drinking water. Only a sealed pit can be placed at a distance of two meters. The pit should be located in an area that has free access for a sewer truck.

After the calculations have been completed and the type of cesspool has been determined, we proceed directly to construction.

Construction process

On the prepared area, it is necessary to mark the location of the pit. If the walls are made of reinforced concrete rings, the pit will be round and quite deep. But it will take up less space on the site.

When using cinder block, the pit will take on a square or rectangular shape. Its dimensions depend on the availability of free space allocated for construction.

The hole is dug, and then the actual construction process begins. How it will happen depends on the material. The cinder block is laid on a cement mortar. If you decide to make the pit walls from reinforced concrete rings, it is better not to save money and order lifting equipment to install the rings evenly. After installing the walls, the top of the pit is covered with a concrete slab. The slab must have a hatch for servicing the pit. Construction is completed, sealing should begin. Sealing is done using bitumen and prevents debris and wastewater from entering the pit.

When the cesspool is completely ready, the installation of sewer pipes begins. The pipe is laid below the freezing level of the ground. The main thing is to maintain a slope when laying the pipe so that sewage can flow by gravity into the tank. After laying the pipe, the trench is covered with earth.

That's all. The construction process is completed, the cesspool can be used for its intended purpose. Do not forget to pump out sewage on time. You can purchase special bacteria for cesspools. They will help increase the efficiency of waste recycling.

Video

This video describes the technology for constructing a cesspool from tires: