Installation of double-glazed windows. How to install a plastic window with your own hands

Many people today want to install double-glazed windows. They look good and have excellent heat and sound insulation properties.

Most often, the installation of double-glazed windows is carried out by specialists, but some people want to install them themselves in order to save money, knowing how much it costs to install a double-glazed window.

Self-installation of double-glazed windows, of course, is not recommended if you do not have construction skills, but it won’t hurt to know how to install double-glazed windows. There are cases when double-glazed windows were installed without following the rules.

Therefore, knowing the installation rules, you can monitor the actions of the workers and make sure that the work was carried out efficiently - and the cost of installing double-glazed windows is 30-50% of their cost!

If you don’t have experience, then it doesn’t matter how much it costs to install a window - it’s better to entrust the work to specialists.

Removing dimensions and dismantling the old window

After contacting the company for installing double-glazed windows, a specialist arrives and takes measurements of the external and inside window box.

It should be taken into account that after dismantling the old window, the size of the opening may change due to shedding of the plaster. If you plan to glaze the balcony, taking dimensions is also necessary.

After the double-glazed window is manufactured and delivered, the old window is dismantled.

There are two options here: either remove the window carefully so that it can be used in the future, or preserve the integrity of the opening as much as possible. Also deleted old window sill and low tide.

Frame installation

Usually the structure is not installed entirely. First, the glass unit is removed from the frame, and only after the frame is installed in the window opening, the glass unit is inserted into it.

Before installing a double-glazed window, the window opening is leveled using plaster mixtures, unevenness and cracks are removed, and then dust and dirt are cleaned. After this you can install the frame. In this case, rigid linings and spacers must be used.

Rigidity is essential because finished window reaches a weight of 100-150 kg. To align the frame along the vertical axis, measuring tools are used, such as, for example, a building level.

In addition to verticality, check the parallelism of the plane of the frame in accordance with the plane of the wall. It is advisable that the installation of double-glazed windows be carried out using hydro- and vapor barrier materials– this indicates the quality of installation of double-glazed windows.

The window frame is secured horizontally and vertically with anchor bolts at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. After this, a double-glazed window is installed in the frame.

Sealing joints

Installation rules provide for sealing seams. The characteristics of the polyurethane foam must correspond to the outside temperature.

After the foam has dried, for the purpose of moisture insulation, it is treated with a water-repellent material - sealant or special paint. The thickness of the foam between the frame and the wall should not exceed 4 cm.

Installation of double-glazed windows on balconies and loggias

A glazed balcony looks beautiful, and it is also much more comfortable to be on it during the cold season. The glazed balcony is perfectly protected from wind and precipitation. In addition, the loggia retains heat better. A glazed balcony can be an additional option useful room in the house. To do this, the balcony must not only be glazed, but also insulated.

In this case, the balcony can be used for safe storage of things even in winter time. It will also be possible to leave on the loggia indoor plants who need lower air temperatures in winter. But this is only if the insulation of the loggia is done correctly.

Installing windows on a balcony has some differences, although general principle the work remains the same. The cost of glazing depends on many factors: the number of sashes, the type of glazing of the loggia, etc. There are special safety requirements for the glazing of loggias and balconies. On average, the price of glazing a loggia and balcony is 40,000 rubles.

To glaze a loggia, not only ordinary double-glazed windows can be used, but also sliding ones. It is difficult to install them yourself. Yes and regular double glazed window It’s better to let specialists install it on the loggia.

Installing double-glazed windows on a balcony - video

Final stage

After the installation is completed, you can install the fittings. The fittings have a significant impact on the cost of the window. The cost of fittings can be considerable, but it is better to install quality devices. Then the double-glazed window will open and close well for many years. The ebb and window sill are also installed - how much this costs is already included in the price of the window.

Many factors influence how much a window costs. First of all, the high cost is good double glazing, high-quality fittings, reliable frame. Therefore on low cost no need to navigate.

Now that the glass unit is installed, you need to remove protective film. A day after installation, the foam will dry and you can use the window.

Dear modern windows The good thing is that their most vulnerable part - the double-glazed window - can be replaced without damaging the overall structure.

If the functional properties of glass are lost (scratches, breaking, loss of tightness), it is unlikely that anyone will think of replacing the window completely if they can limit themselves to one double-glazed window.

It's convenient and budget-friendly. To change the package, it is not necessary to involve a specialist - the process is available to anyone who knows how to handle tools and take accurate measurements.

The main thing in a package created in a home workshop is tightness. It is necessary to pay maximum attention to this when manufacturing a double-glazed window without special equipment. The second point is the quality of the tools. You don't need to have a lot of them on hand:

• glass cutter;
• suction cup handles for moving large glass sheets;
• corners;
• double-sided tape or butyl tape;
• aluminum profile;
• corners;
• silica gel (desiccant);
• glass cleaner.

During the manufacturing process, it is important to adhere to certain sanitary standards. The room and table on which you will make the package must be clean. It’s good if the table surface is covered soft cloth- it's glass!

The manufacturing stages are as follows:

1. Cut the glass and clean it thoroughly until the streaks disappear completely.
2. Slice metal profile, taking into account that the assembled frame should be 10-15 mm smaller than the glass.
3. Connect the profiles with special corners and pour desiccant inside when connecting.
4. Very carefully transfer the glass to the table and glue it to the frame using butyl tape, but if there is none (this is the “factory” option), you can use an alternative double-sided tape.
5. Gluing occurs in this way: on the plane of the frame where it will come into contact with the glass, glue tape or adhesive tape, remove the protective film and apply the glass. Do the same with the second glass sheet. It is important to ensure that there is no movement between the two glasses.
6. Fill the outer end of the bag with sealant, which after hardening should take on a “rubber” quality.

Once you are sure that the bag is sealed and has a certain rigidity, it can be installed.

Since when installing a double-glazed window with your own hands, the problem of discounts on the service should not bother you, another logical question arises: isn’t it better to wait until spring to replace windows?

The most concerning aspect is the cooling of the room or rooms in which reconstruction is planned. After all, replacing double-glazed windows means, first of all, the flow of cold air from the street into a well-heated room.

And the point is not even that it will cool down, but how expensive wallpaper and plaster will react to a sharp drop in temperature. That is, how will window repairs “survive” the interior?

Experts say that the opening remains open for no more than half an hour when replacing bags. During such a period of time, it is unlikely that the decoration in the room will suffer.

If you are confident in your capabilities and can quickly change the package, then the cold will not cause any damage to your apartment.

Even in severe frost, during installation of the package the temperature in the heated room will not drop to minus. The maximum decrease is 10 degrees.

But it is still necessary to protect some things and indoor plants that do not tolerate temperature changes well - place them in another room while replacing the bags.

Winter installation of double-glazed windows (or the entire window structure) is not much different from summer installation. The only caveat is to thoroughly clean the opening from snow and ice. The process requires not just cleaning, but 100% melting, so the use of construction hair dryers is appropriate.

When replacing packages in winter, it is important to avoid distortions during the “large” installation process - when you replace not only glass, but also frames.

When all parameters are met, continue further installation as follows:

• foam the opening around the perimeter using so-called “winter” foam;
• install internal slopes and insulate them (this should be done directly on the day of installation);
• installation of fittings and window adjustment is the final stage of installation.

You can test how tightly the sash fits by simply pinching a sheet of paper with it and trying to pull it out: if that doesn’t work, then you won’t be exposed to drafts.

Also watch the video lesson with the expert’s advice on installing double-glazed windows with your own hands

Almost every novice master wants to learn how to install a plastic window himself. The advantages of such windows include not only performance characteristics, but also ease of installation. These designs are completed with fasteners and additional parts, so even a novice craftsman can install the windows with his own hands. However, to do everything right, you should consider existing nuances. First of all, it is worth noting that it is very difficult to complete the work alone, so it is recommended to hire an assistant.

Items that will be needed to complete the installation plastic windows:

• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• polyurethane foam;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchor;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• slopes;
• windowsill;
• low tides

Before purchasing windows, you will need to take measurements of the opening, taking into account the design. It can be with or without a quarter. Quarter openings are typical for foam block construction. It is worth knowing that such designs significantly reduce heat loss.

In an opening without a quarter, it will be necessary to order windows whose length is 5 cm less than the length of the window opening. The width should be 3 cm less than the corresponding opening indicator. 1.5 cm gaps should be provided along the contour, which will need to be sealed with foam in the future. You will need to leave 3.5 cm at the bottom for the window sill.

Windows with quarter and without quarter

Windows must be ordered by adding 3 cm to the width. The length remains the same. Insulation tapes It will be necessary to apply it not to the plastic frame, but to the place of contact of the quarters with the PVC window. The frame should be pressed against the quarters.

In an opening without a quarter as protective and decorative elements that can prevent the influence external factors on technical properties polyurethane foam, external and internal slopes will be used.

It should be borne in mind that the larger the gap, the greater the consumption of expensive foam. If you want to save money, gaps larger than 4 cm can be partially filled with polystyrene foam or bricks. Gaps from 1 to 4 cm are filled exclusively with foam.

In most cases, windows are not placed in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer base 1/3 in depth.

However, those who want to mount the window themselves can use options with an offset in the direction they need. This must be taken into account when purchasing a window sill and related accessories. You will need to add approximately 5 cm to the width, which will be calculated based on the placement of the windows.

Existing frame fixation methods

The technology for installing windows will depend on the material from which the walls of the structure are built, as well as on the dimensions of the windows. Based on these factors, you need to choose a method for fixing elements.

You can secure the structures as follows:

1. Fixation with dowels, which are inserted into the wall through prepared holes in the profile.
2. Plates with teeth that will need to be pressed into the profile. The elements are not mounted into the wall, but installed sideways and fixed with screws. When the installation is complete, we foam the mounting seams and install slopes under which the anchor plates can be hidden. The space between the plane of the opening and the slope must be filled with foam. To reduce the consumption of foam, part of which will be used for additional leveling, a recess can be made under the plate.

The first method is considered the most reliable. It is used in most cases to install heavy window designs. If the fastening is through, the window will resist various impact loads that may arise, for example, when using windows with sashes that open in several directions. Anchors that pass through the frame will allow you to adjust the structure vertically and horizontally.

Fixing the frame when installing a window

People who are interested in self-installation of small-sized plastic windows with fixed double-glazed windows, a suitable method fastening with anchor plates.

For installation of plates in an opening made of concrete or brick, it is recommended to prepare small recesses so that there is no need to apply an extra layer for leveling before installing the slopes.

In some cases, masters use both methods. The anchors are immersed in the walls through the side parts of the frame and the base of the structure, and top part fixed with plates. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Preparing the window and opening

The opening must be cleared of dust, debris and paint residues. If plastic windows are installed in an existing opening, then top layer need to be cut down. The foam will need to adhere firmly to this layer.

The gaps between the frame and the opening can be filled exclusively with foam.

To prepare the window, you need to do the following:

1. We release the frame from the sash. To do this, you need to remove the pin, which is mounted in the upper loop. Next, you need to carefully pick it up at the bottom. The element must be lifted and removed from the lower loop. Double-glazed windows must be removed from blind windows. To do this, you will need to remove first the longitudinal and then the transverse beads. To remove glazing beads, you need to insert a knife or spatula into the gap, and then slowly move it away. It is worth noting that a small window can be installed even without dismantling the sashes.
2. The glass unit must be leaned against the wall at an angle, then placed on a flat base, which is covered with cardboard. It is not allowed to install the window flat, as cracks may appear due to the impact of stones.
3. The protective film must be removed from the outer base of the frame. This will be much more difficult to do in the future, so it is recommended to remove it at this stage.
4. Finally, you need to place a place for mounting fasteners. The recommended installation step for these devices is 40 cm. If you plan to use mounting plates, they will need to be attached to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes must be made for anchors or self-tapping screws, and the drill should be placed with outside frames

Window structure after installation

Sequence of actions for installing windows

The frame will need to be inserted into the opening. First you need to lay plastic corners or small bars around the perimeter. These elements will be needed to ensure technological clearance. The blades need to be moved slightly so that it is possible to clearly align the frame horizontally and vertically with equal slots. It is recommended to check the location using a building level. The blades must be placed close to the fixation point with screws or anchors.

Speaking about how to install plastic windows, it is worth knowing that installation can be done in several ways. Therefore, at this stage there will be differences. The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. A self-tapping screw must be screwed into the opening of a wooden house through the recesses in the frame. IN in this case There is no need to screw the fastener all the way.
2. On foam concrete or brick walls, points should be marked through the recesses in the frame, then remove the frame and drill holes with a drill that matches the material. Then we put the frame in place and install the fastening element.
3. There is no need to perform any complex actions when installing on anchor plates. They will need to be bent so that they adjoin the place that is intended for their fastening.
4. The final fixation is carried out after checking the horizontal and vertical lines with a plumb line. There is no need to tighten the elements too much, as the frame may bend. Screwing must be completed when the head is level with the frame.
5. The parts that were removed will need to be returned to their place in the reverse order, and then the functionality of the product will be checked.
6. The gaps need to be filled construction foam. The seams are covered with protective tape. On the outside, the insulation tape must be recessed.
7. You need to fill the gap under the drain with foam.
8. At the next stage, the window sill is installed. Plastic construction You will need to move it under the clover a few centimeters.

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build his own country house, to occupy oneself, so to speak, after retirement, and prepares an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. Threw it for him short plan actions, but decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installing plastic windows with your own hands is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation plastic windows.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
2. Preparing a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Attaching fasteners to window frame.
5. Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
6. Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
7. Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling polyurethane foam) gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Installation of slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and rubber gasket, and with light blows knocks the bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It's as easy as shelling pears: place the profile in in the right place, align horizontally and foam.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Pay attention!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with regular mortar, tile adhesive, or a protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

Excellent for these purposes a jigsaw will do or Bulgarian. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Useful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls masking tape(preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. There is a profile for this F-shape(thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted, mosquito net. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will consider in detail the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
2. Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
6. Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
7. Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods of installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because this particular one is more labor-intensive but more safe method(For plastic double glazed windows) installation we chose to write the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Useful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you carry out this process without unpacking, then removing the glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, it is necessary to insert them into the seam between the glazing bead and window frame insert a small spatula and carefully tap with a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, you need to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, or even better, lean the double-glazed window(s) against the wall; if there are several of them, then lay a layer of a soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it down accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second lower hinge. To perform of this dismantling It would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both the sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, and maximum distance between bolts 700 mm, and the minimum is 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening using a concrete screw.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic PVC windows With our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• Shell brick – 60 mm
• porous blocks natural stone— 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If outer contour make the seam as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when installing assembly seams, it is always necessary to observe the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and load-bearing wall less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, like diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame; they are designed to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the assembly seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

To level, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After that in drilled holes It is necessary to insert the anchor bolts, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After all the anchor fastenings have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if, of course, it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Pay attention!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material- for example brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and ebb all external works After installing the PVC windows with your own hands, you are finished and you can return the sash and double-glazed windows.

First, we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame; it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the beadings onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Useful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for a gap to remain between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this we attach the U-shaped starting profile on the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of this profile is located opposite the groove U-shaped profile, the slopes will be placed in these grooves. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

- with four chamber window profile
- And double-glazed window
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final dimensions of the window taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3-centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, you need to subtract 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically from the internal dimensions of the opening.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but its width should be significantly more height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose any useful glazing area. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Pay attention!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that you cannot skimp on measuring instruments.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus if we're talking about about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Useful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal frame inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and its base perfectly matches the horizon.

This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, tighten the self-tapping screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Pay attention!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below the support profile I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. Tilt&Turn Window 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And very serious mistake, which is accepted by the majority - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.

Useful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Useful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Pay attention!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use cuttings from the window sill itself or wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.