Platbands are applied shaped parts used in the design of window or door openings.

Platbands are used to cover cracks when installing door or window frames. Installing platbands helps improve the aesthetic appearance of not only the door or window, but also the room itself. Platbands can be external and internal.

External trims are used to decorate door and window openings on the outside of a building.

Internal platbands are used for the aesthetic design of door and window openings indoors.

Most often, internal platbands are fastened with nails. However, lightweight platband structures can be fastened with liquid nails, silicone or polyurethane foam. You just need to ensure complete adherence of the platbands to the wall and door frame.

Any adhesive materials can withstand a certain load and, with a large weight of the platbands, will not be able to properly hold the platbands on the plane. When choosing one or another adhesive composition, check the weight and properties of the platbands.

You can glue the platbands on liquid nails, or you can fix them on silicone or polyurethane foam.

Where to begin?

In order for the platbands to hold firmly, they must be properly adjusted and secured. To ensure proper fastening of the platbands, it is necessary to follow the technology and procedure for performing the work.

Preparing platbands for fastening


Miter saw for trimming trims

The platbands are pre-cut and marked. If necessary, one edge is trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. Trimming platbands is best done using miter saw or miter box. The slats are tried on the box and marked.

How to glue platbands onto boxes?

Platbands can be attached using adhesives only when the surface of the wall and the surface of the box lie in the same plane. If there are deviations, the platbands will not fit tightly to the surface, and gluing them is impossible. You will have to level the walls using putty.

We glue the platbands using liquid nails

If you want to learn how to glue platbands onto liquid nails, try to purchase platbands without bends and the correct shape.

Plastic trims can be glued to liquid nails, provided that the walls are perfectly smooth.

Check the flatness of the box over its entire height. The areas where you plan to glue the platbands must be cleared of wallpaper, cleaned, and primed. It is recommended to use PVA glue as a primer.

After the glue has dried, apply liquid nails in dots to the platbands in 20 cm increments. The lath is applied to a pre-marked area and held for several minutes. Ideally, press with a clamp overnight.

Different manufacturers of liquid nails have their own technological requirements.
In problem areas, it is allowed to secure the slats with nails, which can then be covered with furniture wax.

The strength of the bonded joint is largely influenced by properly selected adhesive.

Moment glue does not always provide the required quality of connection.

When pressing platbands with liquid nails applied to the surface, glue may bleed through. In such cases, the adhesive should be removed immediately.

How to glue platbands using polyurethane foam?

How to glue trims to doors using polyurethane foam?
To be honest, it is quite difficult to obtain a high-quality connection of platbands to the wall surface using polyurethane foam.

As in the first case, the main requirement is that the plane of the wall and the door frame be at the same level. Otherwise, it will not be possible to ensure a good fit of the platband to the wall.
The platbands are glued in the same way as for liquid nails.

It is necessary to use clamps that will secure the platbands for a sufficiently long time for drying.

Here are tips on how to remove polyurethane foam if it gets on your hands or objects.

How to glue platbands onto acrylic sealants orsilicone?

It is also possible to glue the platbands using silicone; this is a simple and effective method of fastening. There are different types of sealants in different combinations. Lightweight trims can be perfectly glued to a perfectly flat wall using silicone and you don’t even need a clamp or nails.

Place the box flush with the wall. Clean the area where the glue is applied from dust and dirt. Apply a layer of deep penetration primer.

Silicone is applied to the platbands in the middle in increments of 10 cm. The platbands are applied to a pre-marked area and left in place for several seconds.

Conclusions:

    - to secure the platbands you can use silicone, liquid nails, polyurethane foam, all methods are good;
    - for reliable fixation, it is recommended to use a combined method, glue the trim and fix it with a minimum number of nails, which are then masked with furniture wax.

Cashing is selected for door leaves according to criteria such as texture, width, color. Cash registers are made from various types of materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. More details below.

Cash frames for interior doors are sold in a large assortment, and you can purchase products in a wide variety of shapes (carved, figured, teardrop-shaped, semicircular.) This detail is the finishing touch, after which the installation will be completely completed.

Often, door manufacturers do not include platbands with the product, and they have to be purchased additionally.

For some, this can be a serious problem, but to avoid it, simply check the package. Naturally, the cost of a door model with all the necessary components will be much more than the bare door leaf, but you won’t have to look for a suitable element in other retail outlets. You can install the platbands yourself; installation will not be difficult.

As for the dimensions of the door finish, the following are considered standard:

  • Width – 7 cm;
  • Thickness – 1.2 cm;
  • Height 190 – 235 cm.

In order to finish a door with one leaf, you need 5 trims. If the door has two leaves, then 6. If you need to frame only the door opening, then it will be enough to purchase only 2 planks. What cash options are best to choose? In this case we are talking specifically about the material.

You can buy platbands made of canvas:

  • Natural wood;
  • Aluminum;
  • Become.

They may have a decorative coating in the form of laminated film, veneer, facing plastic, or paint composition. Modern manufacturers produce planks of various sizes, and therefore it is possible to choose them according to your preference.

What are the criteria for selecting cash at the door?

It is worth installing only those trims that are carefully selected, match the color of the door leaf, and are easy to fasten. The types of canvases are described above, but what other features are there when choosing cashers?

If a wooden model of platbands is chosen, then it should be:

  • Well dried so that over time it does not begin to crack, rot and lose its proper appearance;
  • Evenly colored;
  • No blue spots;
  • Smooth without jagged edges;
  • No knots or cracks.

Cash is a product that is not too complicated in configuration, and you can make it yourself. Before fastening correctly, it is worth carefully preparing the finishing element. It is worth noting that proper selection of tools and materials allows you to begin all the necessary work. First, the workpiece is cut according to dimensions taken in advance. The calculation is made individually and you should not rely on standard parameters.

The quality of the work performed directly depends on how carefully each canvas is processed using a machine or woodworking machine.

After making the platband, it is polished. Namely, there must be rough grinding and manual processing. The second step is required to remove all circular scratches that remain on the electric machine. Finished platbands must be coated with a primer and antiseptic composition.

How to make door frames

Installing the casher is not difficult, but first you should prepare the element. You can find an unlimited variety of different trims from many manufacturers, which may differ in price, finish, and shape.

However, many people prefer to install products that they will make with their own hands.

In this way, you can significantly reduce the costs of repair and finishing work and, moreover, it is much easier to install the finishing yourself according to your preferences.

It is definitely worth preparing a number of tools, without which it will be impossible to manufacture, trim or completely trim and attach the casing to the door:

  • A saw, preferably a hand saw.
  • A machine with which you can make a right angle.
  • Thicknesser, which is required to create the correct thickness of the platband.
  • Vertical router.
  • Sander.
  • Square.
  • Ruler.
  • Pencil.

There are a variety of ways to attach platbands. For example, you can cut it to size and nail it onto nails, attach it with glue, glue it with liquid nails or mastic even to a corner, put capitals on self-tapping screws. Each of the presented options has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are worth familiarizing yourself with.

Correct installation of interior door frames

Nailing the trim onto finishing nails is the most popular option. It has a lot of advantages. If necessary, you can easily remove the trim. Fastening is quick and easy. To install trim for openings, you will need to select nails with a flat and narrow head.

The length is selected depending on the thickness of the casing, but on average 4 cm is chosen.

If at the time of purchase only nails with heads were on sale, then the heads can be removed with a couple of light movements if you use a side cutter. Before installing the platbands, it is worth marking the location of the fasteners. Balance must be maintained or, in other words, the arrangement is carried out evenly so that there is no distortion of the structure. Experts recommend installing them at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Liquid nails are glue sold in tubes. It is very easy to apply and can be used for any type of trim. This can be a plastic or wooden model. There is no need for any preparatory work, because it is enough to simply squeeze out the composition and press the platband to the desired place on the opening between the wall and door panels. The advantages of this installation method are quite obvious, and the most important thing is that liquid nails dry as quickly as possible, they are as durable as possible, and even if the composition leaks outside the product, it is very easy to remove.

Self-tapping screws are a simple and old installation method. Has such advantages as:

  • Reliability;
  • Strength;
  • Ease of installation.

The downside is that if you apply too much pressure to the canvas while screwing in the screws, the canvas may crack. The location for installing the self-tapping screw must be marked in advance so as not to move even a couple of millimeters. This can also cause a violation of the integrity of the casing. Best of all, experts advise pre-drilling holes to avoid the consequences described above.

There is another method of fastening, such as beaks. The advantages are an excellent proper appearance and ease of installation. The disadvantage is that they are made of MDF, and it is not only not advisable to remove them after installation, but after dismantling you can still notice chips and cracks in the coating.

Selecting telescopic door frames

There are telescopic trims on the doors. They differ from ordinary ones by the presence of a special protrusion for easy connection with the extensions and door frame. They are used in cases where the door frame is narrower than the thickness of the wall. Due to this special protrusion, the fastening is carried out through the longitudinal grooves in the door frame. If the installation is carried out correctly, then neither fasteners nor walls will be visible in the opening between the box and the wall.

This method of installing platbands also:

  • Reliable;
  • Lasting;
  • Long lasting.

When making platbands yourself, you will need to carry out the most careful calculations so that the door has a neat and finished look. There are a number of nuances that should definitely be taken into account when installing platbands. To hide fasteners in the form of nails or screws, you can use a wax corrector or acrylic sealant of the same color as the door leaf.

In order to avoid a gap in the joint of the platbands, each cut of the subsequent panel must be created relying on the previous element. If the room has a crooked wall, then straight platbands cannot be made. What to do in such a situation? Finishing nails should be used to install the edges of the trim. Such fasteners are invisible and they allow you to level the finish of the door frame.

If there are minor gaps, then acrylic sealant or, again, wax sealant will be required to mask them. To disguise significant defects around the door frame, you can choose wide trims of the order of 10-12 cm. It is best, in this case, to purchase custom-made trims. Since the installation of platbands is a finishing touch, the procedure is carried out only at the end of the renovation of the room.

The installation is carried out flush at the ends, and visually it seems that the installation is carried out directly to the wall. Experts recommend choosing thin carnations with a small head.

Do-it-yourself installation of interior door frames (video)

A door without trim not only looks untidy, but it spoils the entire look of the room. They allow you to hide the edges of the wallpaper, the opening between the door frame and the wall, and also add completeness and aesthetics to the interior design.

The installation of platbands on interior doors is carried out almost at the very end of the renovation: the walls, floors are ready, the doors are installed. Only the baseboards are not nailed down - they are installed after the trims have been installed.

What are there

If we talk about materials, then to the traditional platbands made of solid wood or laminated planks, new ones have been added: made of MDF, covered with veneer or PVC film. There are also plastic trims. They are the most inexpensive, look quite decent, and come in a variety of colors. They are also made of metals - steel and aluminum, but they are placed on entrance doors.

MDF door trims look very decent

Platband sizes

These products are classified as molded - they are sold by linear meters, so we are not talking about length standards. But usually it is somewhere around 2.2-2.5 m (with a margin for adjustment). Standard width is also a flexible concept: from 30 mm to 80 mm. In this range you can find a platband made of any material. On request they can be made from wood of any configuration and dimensions.

The width of the casing is selected depending on the size of the door itself and how close the frame is installed to the opening: the gap must be blocked. In general, for narrow doors a narrow frame is necessary; with double doors, a massive frame looks better.


The sizes of the platbands may be different. Even if you don’t find the required dimensions ready-made, you can order custom-made

Shape and color

The platbands differ in shape. There are flat, figured, paneled, carved. Recently, decoration with capitals and balusters has become fashionable. But such door framing is not suitable for every interior.

“L”-shaped and telescopic platbands also appeared on the market. This is a very interesting system that makes it easy to match the door frame and finish to the width of the wall. The process of installing telescopic platbands is largely individual: the systems are assembled differently, and accordingly, there is a difference in the installation process (described in detail in the instructions).

The color range is very wide: you can find a frame to match almost any color of the canvas. It needs to be matched tone to tone. Often (but not always) these products are included with the door leaf and frame. Then you don’t need to agonize over the choice: they are matched tone to tone. All that remains is to install.


The form can also be very diverse.

Installation procedure for platbands

You need to start by choosing an installation scheme. There are only two of them and the difference is only in the size of the angles: angles are cut at 45 o and 90 o. The installation most often used is at 45 o: it is implemented on platbands of any shape, although it is more difficult to implement.

When sawing at 90 o, the trick is that the top bar needs to be recessed a little. By a few millimeters. Then everything looks organic. How specific - you need to look on the spot: it depends on the profile. To “drown” it will be necessary to remove these millimeters from the back surface. This is done either by grinding or on a lathe.

Cashing doors at 45 o is more complicated, but it looks good with any terrain, which cannot be said about the previous option.


When installing, you can saw the platbands at different angles

Preparing the side planks

You need to start from the side where the doors open. First, install the side strips. Take one and put it against the door. When measuring, make sure that there is no debris on the floor and that the plank is pressed tightly against the floor. Even a seemingly insignificant fragment that gets under the platband leads to a gap appearing at the top.

It is advisable to start from the side where the loops are attached. Here you won’t be able to place it closely - they don’t give you loops, so you put it in with a slight indentation. Mark the point from which you want to make the cut. This is done with a sharply sharpened pencil or knife. Using a knife is more precise - a line is already obtained, and then the cut is more precise.

Now place another bar on the other side (possibly without indentation) and mark it. Do not make a mirror image of a previously made plank - they may differ, and it will be problematic to adjust later.


Having a miter box makes it easy to get the desired angle

Now you need to cut them down at 45 o. This can be done in two ways: using a miter box or using a regular ruler and pencil.

If you have a miter box, place a strip there, match it with the applied mark (do not confuse which direction you need to cut) and, using a hand or electric saw (preferably with a metal blade - it will turn out smoother), saw off. There is one trick: MDF trim covered with veneer and PVC should be placed face down. This way there will be no scratches or chips in the coating on the front side.

An angle of 45 o can be constructed with only a ruler and pencil. At the point where the cut will begin, draw a perpendicular to the opposite side. Accurately measure the width of your trim, set this value up and draw another perpendicular line. The result is two parallel lines. Now it remains to connect two opposite points, and you will get an angle of 45 o. But be careful: do not confuse which direction you need the angle. This way you can correctly file the corners of the casing without special tools.


A 45 degree angle can only be achieved with a square and a pencil.

Installing side strips

The next step is to secure (preliminary for now) the prepared strips to the door frame. For now we need to secure them a little so that we can cut off the top bar. Therefore, we attach it to two nails: at the top and at the bottom. But you need to display them the way they will later be mounted. Carefully try on and nail.

We measure and file the top bar

We immediately file one corner of the top bar at 45 o. Please note that its length should be significantly greater than the width of the box - at a minimum, a margin equal to three or four times the width of the casing is required.

For example, the width of the door frame is 800 mm. We chose a platband 60 mm thick. The preliminary length of the plank should be at least a meter: it is necessary to take into account the gaps that may be between the wall and the frame, as well as the width of the platbands.

Therefore, it is advisable not to cut off the top strips before installing the side strips. We installed the sidewalls, estimated the length, added a margin of about five centimeters (to make it easier to saw) and we were ready to cut.


Mark the place where you will need to cut the corner

Having filed down one side of the horizontal plank, apply it to the installed vertical one. There should be a perfect match with no gaps or gaps. If it is not there, take some sandpaper or a sanding machine and grind off all the excess. Only after you are satisfied with the result, you can mark where you need to file the second corner: where the side plank begins.

Having filed the last corner on the top bar, apply it again. And on this side, a perfect match (or almost perfect) is also necessary. The elimination method is the same: sandpaper or sanding machine. Sometimes adjustment is impossible: there are gaps. If they are small, they can be eliminated after installation: cover them with wood putty of a suitable color (sold in hardware stores, selected by color depending on the type of wood).

Now all that remains is to finally secure the platbands.

What to attach to

Here the question immediately arises: how to nail them down. When installing platbands, several types of fasteners are used:


A little about what materials and what type of fasteners are best to use. Wooden frames are traditionally fastened with nails. They are almost invisible in the array, and if something is noticeable, you can always cover it up with putty. Mostly MDF products are attached to self-tapping screws (veneered or laminated - it doesn’t matter). They can still be glued. But craftsmen advise “planting” them on nails without heads - the joints are not visible. Plastic trims are almost always attached with glue, sometimes with self-tapping screws. Nails in this case are unacceptable.

But if glue is used, the wall must be flat: then the casing will fit tightly and hold well. It is more convenient to mount it on a curved wall with self-tapping screws: they can be used to tighten the planks more tightly. No other fastener will give you this opportunity, not even nails, especially without heads.

How often do trims need to be nailed? Approximately one nail per 50 cm.

Foaming the cracks

After the installation of the platbands on one side is completed, we install wooden pegs-spacers between the door frame and the wall; if possible, it is advisable to place spacers inside the frame as well. This way the geometry will be maintained exactly.

Then we take a can of polyurethane foam and fill the gaps between the box and the wall about halfway. We leave it for a day - during this time the foam will harden, and its excess can be cut off with a knife. If you spray the box with foam before installing the trim, most of it will come out, but the consumption will be very small.


Fill the gap between the box and the wall with foam

We install platbands on the second side

Here everything is repeated in exactly the same sequence. Only here the loops don’t interfere and you don’t have to make an indent. After installation, if there are gaps between the platbands and the frame, they are covered with wood putty and sanded after it dries.

Complex cases

Not all doors are installed in such a way that the platbands can be installed without problems. Difficulties may vary.

The most common option is that one of the walls is too close. If there is at least some gap, it is necessary to saw off the “excess” from one plank. Only then the assembly will be in a different order: install the uncut side plank, the top one next to it, and place the narrow one at the very end.

Sometimes the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. Then they either install an additional bar - an extension, or use an L-shaped platband. Depends on the distance that is not covered by the box. If it is small - 1-2 cm, you can cover it with a platband; a more solid one needs to be covered with good.


By gluing the trims you can secure them with clamps

Results

There is nothing difficult about installing platbands on doors yourself. There are several rules, following which even a non-professional carpenter can cope with the task.

All wall finishing work is completed by installing trim on the doors. If they were dismantled on purpose, there are no problems - they are installed in the reverse order. If the repair work was accompanied by the replacement of the door block, then very often the question arises about how to install trim on the door with your own hands.

At first glance, nothing complicated. However, in the process of work, moments arise when knowledge of the nuances cannot be avoided.

Below we will consider what material and what shape of trims to buy, as well as how to install them correctly - advice from professionals will help you do the work yourself quickly and beautifully.

Why are platbands needed?

After installing the doors, gaps remain between the frame and the wall, in which fasteners and foam are visible. Previously, the remaining open openings were plastered and then painted or covered with wallpaper, but now they are hidden under extensions (you can see how to do this in the material “Installing extensions on interior doors with your own hands”) and platbands.

The platband is a strip installed on the wall along the perimeter of the doorway on both sides of the door frame.

Based on the above definition, it can be argued that the platband is one of the door elements that closes the gap between the wall and the door block for aesthetic purposes. Consequently, the appearance of both the wall near the opening and the door itself depends on the quality of its installation.

  • Properly installed platbands allow:
  • visually align the door frame if errors were made during their installation that led to loss of verticality;
  • beautifully hide the gap and hangers between the wall and the edge of the frame of the door block;
  • serve as one of the interior elements that emphasizes the chosen style of room design (curly trims are installed, for example, Doriot, Greco, etc.);

hide various wires and cables.

Simply put, the interior door, being part of the space in which the family lives, along with other elements of the room (floor, walls, ceiling, etc.) creates coziness and comfort. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the selection and installation of platbands.

Types of platbands

  • Door trims can be classified into different types according to several criteria. Of these, the following are directly related to design, shelf life, speed and quality of work:
  • the material from which the slats are made;
  • dimensions;
  • shape of the front side of the board;

fastening method.

Material

Different materials are used in the production of platbands. Each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Tree

  • Wooden trims are made from both soft wood (pine, spruce, linden) - a budget option, and hard wood (Karelian pine, ash, beech, walnut, oak, etc.) - an expensive, elite look. Wood planks have many advantages:
  • environmental cleanliness;
  • versatility - suitable for any door leaf;
  • simple installation - can be easily installed by the owner of the house or apartment himself;
  • long service life - with proper care;
  • maintainability - quite easy to restore with minor mechanical damage.

But wooden products also have their disadvantages:

  • They do not tolerate significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity - they can swell or dry out. Both options, due to deformation, negatively affect the appearance;
  • an insufficiently processed surface darkens, losing its original colors;
  • high price. Thus, an oak casing 70x15 mm costs about 230 rubles. for 1 p.m. Original works made of valuable wood with brass or copper inserts can generally cost more than a standard interior door.

Conventional wooden frames cost an order of magnitude lower, but are still more expensive than other materials.

MDF

The main competitor to wooden products is MDF trim. Covered on the front side with natural veneer or a special protective PVC film (laminated), they imitate the structure of wood, which maintains a consistently high demand for such products.

The material is environmentally friendly - lignin is used to glue wood fibers together. In terms of aesthetic perception, it is only slightly inferior to wood products. It has high wear resistance and resistance to mechanical stress. Attached with glue, liquid or special finishing nails.

The disadvantages include low resistance to moisture - they swell. Therefore, it is not recommended to install MDF trim in the bathroom.

The price of 1 linear meter can be budget (from 120 rubles) and quite expensive (from 1,000 rubles - figured). Planks veneered with valuable wood species can be purchased for 180-600 rubles. for 1 p.m.

Plastic

When buying plastic building materials, the consumer probably knows that it will be PVC. In the case of platbands this is not entirely true. There are also products on the market made from cast polyurethane, which is fundamentally different from polyvinyl chloride products.

PVC. Platbands made of PVC have many advantages:

  • low price - located in the lower price sector;
  • resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, which eliminates their deformation;
  • do not rot;
  • Easy care - just wipe with a damp cloth;
  • due to the hollow structure, they allow you to hide various cables inside;
  • long service life;
  • installation is accessible to beginners.

There are also disadvantages. Due to the internal structure of the PVC strip (produced in the form of a hollow profile with a large number of partitions and stiffeners):

  • easily damaged mechanically;
  • When cutting and fastening, there is a high probability of cracks and burrs appearing.

There is also a more significant drawback: the aesthetic perception is significantly inferior to platbands made of other materials - you can immediately see that it is cheap plastic. For fastening, liquid nails and polyurethane foam are most often used - self-tapping screws are difficult to disguise, and finishing nails often lead to cracking and delamination of the material.

Polyurethane. The material made of cast polyurethane (obtained by pressing in cast iron molds) is very similar to planks made of natural wood: African oak or linden. It can be cut and drilled in the same way as regular boards. This technology allows:

  • obtain a front surface of a very complex shape, imitating stucco, casting or wood carving;
  • easy and simple to attach to the doorway;
  • if necessary, paint completely or individual areas;
  • cut and drill without the risk of damaging the strip.

Among the shortcomings, we note the rather high price, which, however, is compensated by a long service life and chic design.

Metal

Metal trims are mainly used when installing steel entrance doors from the corridor or street side. In this version, the platbands form a single whole with the box. However, metal strips can also be found on sale as separate elements, which is not surprising. After all, the range of interior doors made of aluminum or galvanized steel is quite impressive.

Metal has many positive qualities:

  • not afraid of humidity;
  • does not fade in the sun;
  • withstands any mechanical loads;
  • has no restrictions on service life, etc.

Some difficulties arise only during their installation - without any experience, it is difficult to size them. You can buy a set at a price of 4,000-7,000 rubles.

Dimensions

The size of the casing is influenced by 4 factors:

  • dimensions of the doorway;
  • door location;
  • plank shape;
  • the size of the gap between the wall and the door block.

Doorways differ in different series of houses, and therefore the doors have different widths and heights. And this, in turn, requires the production of platbands of different sizes, both according to technical and aesthetic requirements (in order for objects to look harmonious in combination, they must have certain proportions in size). For example, for doors 2 m high and 80 cm wide, the trims should be within 64 mm. Deviations of 5 mm in one direction or another lead to the fact that the installed planks look somewhat ridiculous.

In life, it is not always possible to comply with such requirements. If the gap between the door frame and the end of the wall in the opening is large, and there is no possibility of partially plastering it, wider trims are purchased. When choosing a specific size, you need to focus on the requirements of SNiP. According to it, the width of the platband should be 30 mm greater than the gap.

When doors are located close to an adjacent wall, on the contrary, it is often necessary to install narrower strips.

The dimensions also depend on the shape of the casing: flat models with a width of 64 mm visually look the same as semicircular ones with a width of 70 mm, and telescopic ones - 75 mm. Metal falls out of the overall picture somewhat. It is produced in a width of 40 mm, which must be taken into account when choosing the type of material.

Form

On sale you can find platbands of different board shapes: rectangular and teardrop-shaped. In turn, rectangular platbands can be:

  • flat (also called straight);
  • with a bevel of one edge or the entire surface;
  • semicircular;
  • curly.

The choice of a specific form depends on the design style of the room and the taste preferences of the owners.

Door mounting methods

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors is carried out using several technologies, which differ in the method of attaching the strip to the door block and the type of joining of the vertical platband with the horizontal one.

According to the method of fixing the planks, there are 4 technologies:

  • nails;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • adhesives (liquid nails);
  • using tongue-and-groove fastening (telescopic platbands).

The corner connection of the vertical and horizontal platband can be made straight (90°) or with a cut at an angle of 45°.

Nails

Wooden trims, as well as those made of MDF and polyurethane, are easiest to attach to special finishing nails. The fixation of the planks is very reliable, and if necessary, they can be easily removed along with the nails (re-placed in the same holes, still ensuring good fastening).

Hats get tucked behind the face. If they are very conspicuous, they are masked with wax pencils. The required length of nails (available in the range of 20-100 mm) is calculated as follows: 20 mm is added to the thickness of the casing, which must be driven into the box. Nailed in increments of 50 cm.

Some experts advise drilling holes for them, which, according to the editors, is not necessary: ​​thin nails can be driven into any material well.

Self-tapping screws

Installing trim on interior doors using self-tapping screws is similar to fastening with nails. Only here the fasteners are hardware 25 mm long and 6 mm in diameter. Unlike finishing nails, it is necessary to drill holes for self-tapping screws.

The drill used is 1 mm smaller in diameter than for hardware. Step 50 cm. To hide the head of the self-tapping screw, a countersunk hole is drilled into the plank to a depth of about 1.5 mm with a larger diameter drill, which, after attaching the platbands, is sealed with a wax pencil or sealed with veneer (protective film).

Glue

Quite often, liquid nails are used to attach platbands. The method has one advantage: no traces of fixation are visible. There are two disadvantages:

  • weak fastening;
  • Difficulties during dismantling: in some places it barely holds on, in others it is torn out “with meat”.

However, they cannot be used on a curved wall.

Attention: sometimes you can come across advice to glue platbands onto polyurethane foam. This method has the right to life, but under several conditions:

  • the platband must be light enough for the glue to hold it;
  • the wall and the plane of the door frame must coincide;
  • Before the foam dries, the planks are pressed against the wall and frame with clamps in at least 3 places.

Tenon and groove

The installation of telescopic platbands is carried out in the same way as the construction kit is assembled: the planks are held in place by a tenon joint. To ensure reliable fixation, experts recommend lubricating the grooves and tenons with PVA glue.

Attention: the use of any type of glue in telescopic systems practically eliminates the possibility of gentle dismantling, which must be taken into account.

90 o. The joining method at right angles is only suitable for platbands with a rectangular cross-section (flat in the shape of the front part). In this case, the top strip can lie on the vertical trim (horizontal joining) or between them (vertical).

45 o. For corner connections of curly or oval platbands, each plank at the joining point must be cut at an angle of 45 o. This is the most common way to connect door frame cladding elements.

Required materials and tools

To cover the door frame, you will naturally need platbands and one of the types of fasteners: nails, screws or glue. In addition, you need the following tools:

  • screwdriver with drill and bit - necessary when working with self-tapping screws;
  • hammer or pneumatic hammer for driving nails;
  • jigsaw or hand saw for wood;
  • miter box - for cutting corners with a hand saw;
  • roulette;
  • chisel;
  • construction square;
  • construction pencil;
  • wax pencil when attaching platbands to nails or screws.

Preparatory work

When installing platbands from the extension side, as a rule, no problems arise. But on the side of the door frame, carpenters quite often encounter a situation where the door block is either slightly recessed into the opening or protrudes outward. In this case, it is necessary to carry out work to hide these shortcomings.

The box is recessed

If the structure of the door block is recessed into the opening, and there is no way to correct the mistake by adding more, a thick platband is taken and an undercut is made in the wall under it. The work order is as follows:

  1. the platband is attached to the box;
  2. the line of the platband is marked on the wall;
  3. using a grinder with a cutting wheel for concrete or brick, an incision is made into the wall along the drawn line;
  4. use a chisel and hammer to knock out a recess for the platband - no need to be afraid to make the cut deeper or go beyond the line;
  5. a small amount of cement mortar is made (it is better to use ready-made putty);
  6. the knocked-out recess is lightly covered with mortar and the casing is immediately applied, as tightly as possible. Excess mortar that appears is removed first with a trowel or spatula, and then with a rag or rag;
  7. The casing is removed, and the solution is given time to set.

To prevent the solution from sticking to the back of the plank, it is first moistened with water.

The box protrudes

If the box protrudes beyond the wall, a plane and wooden trim will help. The technology is simple: the size of the box is marked on the back side, after which a quarter is selected from the back side of the casing using a plane. You need to work slowly, constantly monitoring the process of selecting a recess for the box.

Installation instructions for platbands

When the materials have been purchased and the tools are at hand, all that remains is to figure out how to properly install platbands on interior doors.

All construction work begins with adjusting the material to size. This also applies to platbands. There are two ways to connect the vertical strips to the top casing. Let's look in detail at how the strips for each of them are measured and cut.

At an angle of 90

The rectangular connection of platbands can be of several types, and therefore measurements are taken in different ways.

Vertical. The connection of the planks with a vertical seam involves the placement of a horizontal platband between the side posts. In this case, the work is performed in the following sequence:

  • on the side of the hinges, at a distance of 3-4 mm from them, a platband is applied to the door (the indentation is necessary for the doors to open freely) and at the top, on the inside, the line of the strip is marked;
  • a similar operation is carried out with the platband and on the side of the handle. In this case, one of the trims must be marked - they may have different heights due to the uneven floor;
  • The top strip is applied to the door frame and brought to a horizontal position. If there is a visual distortion, adjustments are made in such a way as to hide the existing defect as much as possible;
  • taking the drawn vertical lines as a guide, the length of the upper casing is noted;
  • a mark is made along the top of the plank, close to the edge, which necessarily intersects the previously placed vertical lines;
  • side trims are applied to the door one by one to determine their length - marks are placed opposite the drawn crosses on the slats;

For reference: in the absence of an urgent need to obtain precisely fitted joints, the width of the casing and the amount of offset from the hinges are added to the vertically installed bar from the lower level of the horizontal beam of the box.

  • on the surface of the planks, cut lines are marked with a pencil using a construction square;
  • Using a jigsaw or a handsaw (preferably using a miter box), the platbands are cut to size.

Horizontal simple. With a horizontal connecting seam, the upper casing is first applied to the door frame. After finding its specific installation location along the bottom edge, horizontal lines are drawn from both ends that will show the length of the side trims.

After this, the length of the vertically located strips is determined by analogy with the previous example. Experienced carpenters determine the size of the top platband after attaching the side ones - a perfect match is guaranteed: a horizontal platband is laid on the fixed strips. Marking its length is not difficult.

Horizontal with an overlap. In some cases, designers suggest installing the top trim with slightly protruding edges. In this case, the top strip is laid on the already installed side trims, as in the previous case, and then the cutting lines are marked.

At an angle of 45

It is somewhat more difficult to join semicircular and figured platbands - you will have to cut the ends at an angle of 45 o. Note that this is the most common way to join the trim at the top of the door, allowing you not only to hide the cracks, but also to get a beautifully designed opening. The technological operation consists of several steps:

Step 1. The length of the left and right platbands is determined. To do this, on the side of the hinges, with an indent of 3-4 mm, a platband is applied to the box. The lowest point of the cut is marked. It is located above the door opening by an indent.

Step 2. The length of the second casing is determined in the same way.

Step 3. Platbands are placed on stools or a table. The lower control lines are drawn along the marks. After this, the platband is extended to its width. The upper control line is drawn along the second mark.

Step 4. Platbands are cut at an angle of 45 o. If sawing is done with a hand saw, then the bar is attached to the miter box so that one of the marks is opposite the slot at 45 o. If you have a jigsaw at hand, mark the place of the cut with a pencil - the upper and lower marks are connected diagonally.

Step 5. Side trims are installed.

Step 6. The top strip is placed on the platbands so that its bottom coincides with the beginning of the cut of the ends of the side strips.

Step 7 The corners at the top bar are cut.

Step 8 The joints are sealed with acrylic or silicone sealant and then painted with a corrector.

The sized planks are attached in several ways.

On nails

The most common method of attaching cash to a door is with finishing nails. They are hardly noticeable on the surface of the planks, do not require work experience, and are easily removed from the box along with the trim. For work, use nails with a flattened head, about 40-60 mm long, and 1.5 mm in diameter. The color of such nails may be different, since they are coated with one of the following metals:

  • zinc;
  • copper;
  • chrome;
  • brass;
  • bronze

You can hammer in with a simple hammer or a pneumatic tool. The step between the fastenings is about 50 cm.

If you can’t buy finishing nails, you can use regular ones. In this case, they are not hammered in completely, leaving the opportunity to bite off the caps with a side cutter. After removing the heads, the nails are driven in completely.

In most cases, nail heads are inconspicuous and do not require masking. If you need to hide traces of fastening, then use a wax pencil.

For self-tapping screws

Fastening with screws completely follows the instructions for fastening with nails:

  1. platbands are cut to size;
  2. are applied to the box (side), after which the places for screwing in the screws are marked on them;
  3. holes are drilled (the drill is taken 1 mm thinner);
  4. side strips are attached;
  5. Using the same technology, the top cash is attracted to the box;
  6. the heads of the hardware are masked with a wax pencil, veneer or film.

Attention: with a vertical seam of 90 o, it is necessary to attach the platbands in a slightly different order: the side strip, then the top, the process is completed by side trim again.

For liquid nails

Fastening with glue also does not cause problems. The MDF planks adjusted to size are turned upside down. Liquid nails are applied to them with a snake along the entire length, without gaps. To fix the platbands, they are pressed tightly against the box and held in this position for several minutes - the specific time is indicated on the packaging.

Fastening PVC strips

Plastic panels can be installed with glue, which is not the best solution, but can be assembled using a special profile. The operating procedure is as follows:

  • the planks are cut to size;
  • A profile is cut to the size of the box. May be a little shorter;
  • then the profile is cut in half at an angle of 45 o, after which it is screwed to the box with self-tapping screws. The connection at the top should be 45 o. That is why such a cut was made. Naturally, the connection in the middle of the beam should be rectangular;
  • The strips cut at an angle of 45 o are connected in the side fittings and then snapped into the profile.

Installation of platbands on the front door

Installation of platbands on the front door is carried out in the same way. There aren't even any nuances.

Nuances of the work

Every job has its secrets. Here are some tips from professionals.

How to join the platband to the baseboard

The platband is installed close to the floor. The length of the plinth is adjusted to it. The plastic baseboard has a beautiful cap at the end. Wooden ones are processed: the end adjacent to the baseboard is beveled at an angle of 45 o.

How to trim the platband

When working with a jigsaw, all cutting lines must be very clearly drawn. If you only have a hand saw, then it is advisable to have a miter box on hand. Another important point concerns the width of the cut. It can eat 3 mm from the length of the platbands. Therefore, when applying markings, the easiest way is to raise it by 1.5 mm, and cut exactly along the line.

How to align the plane of the platband with the wall

When installing a door block, it is not always possible to achieve the same plane of the wall and frame. In this case, preparatory work is carried out to eliminate the defect, as discussed above.

Finally, here are some more tips.

  • Platbands are installed after finishing the walls.
  • Significant wall defects are well hidden under wide, about 12 cm, platbands.
  • Errors when joining the platbands at an angle of 45 o can be eliminated with putty, tinted after drying with a corrector to match the tone of the panels.
  • Visible gaps between the platband and the frame are sealed with acrylic sealant, and then tinted to match the materials with a corrector.

The main problem when installing platbands is not the technological process, it is simple, but the correct choice of strips in color, width and shape of the front surface.

Hi all! The aesthetic appearance of an interior door largely depends on how accurately and accurately the trim is installed. And we’ll talk further about how to install the trim after installing the door block with the door.

During the installation of platbands we will need:

  • A tape measure, a simple pencil and a wax pencil to match the color of the platband;
  • wood hacksaw and miter box or miter saw;
  • masking tape, utility knife blade, hammer and finishing nails;
  • acrylic sealant in the color of the casing and foam sponge;

Preparatory stage

Installing trim on the door is the final stage of door installation. To this moment:

  • the door frame must be fully assembled and checked for verticality;
  • the door is hung and adjusted (easy to open and close);
  • the gap between the door frame and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam;
  • a latch handle is installed on the door leaf and a strike plate on the jamb.

Note: the edge of the door frame and the surface of the wall should be located in the same plane and form a flat surface. If necessary, level the wall relative to the front side of the door block using plaster or putty.

Using a sharp blade, carefully cut off the excess hardened foam around the perimeter of the door block, being careful not to damage the decorative coating of the frame.

There are various options for installing platbands on interior doors: using self-tapping screws, liquid nails, snap-on platbands. I will tell you how to attach the trim with finishing nails.

Step-by-step instructions for installing platbands

The platbands are installed in the following sequence: side – top – side. If you first install both side elements, it will be problematic to fit the top one exactly to size. Attach the side trim to the installation site. The frame should be located with a slight indentation from the edge of the box, in this case the platband does not interfere with the hinges, and the lock tongue does not cling to it when closing and opening the door.

Inspect the lower part of the casing - if there are chips or irregularities on it, cut off the edge. You can cut the platband with a hacksaw, using a miter box for precision. But without the skill of such work, it will be difficult to evenly cut platbands with a convex or shaped outer surface. It is most convenient to use a miter saw.

Install the casing vertically, check the size of the indentation from the edge of the box along the entire length. Make marks on the box with a pencil (so that later you can mount the casing exactly in the same place), mark on the casing the place where the cut will be made at 45°.

Using a miter saw, cut the upper part of the casing at a given angle, leaving about 2 cm from the mark (margin in case of an uneven cut). If the cut is smooth, attach the trim to the door frame and measure how much to cut from the bottom end so that the framing element fits correctly.

Then we attach the platband using finishing nails - they are distinguished by small heads that are recessed into the surface.

The nails are driven in at a centimeter indentation from the edge of the casing. Start fastening from the top, pressing the trim tightly in a vertical position. Drive the first nail at a distance of about 2 cm from the upper oblique cut. Try to make the attachment points along the same line, with the same pitch (30 - 40 cm). The finishing nails should be driven in extremely carefully so as not to hit the platband itself with a hammer. You can pre-drill the holes with a thin wood drill bit. Having secured the casing with nails, run your hand over it - the caps should not protrude above the surface and cling.

We put it back, tightly aligning the oblique cuts, and mark the place where the oblique cut will be made at the second end of the upper casing.

Having cut the second end at an angle of 45°, we use the same finishing nails to fix the horizontal part of the door frame.

The second vertical element is mounted according to the same principle - cut down with a margin, check the accuracy of the cut, trim the bottom end to size, and fix it with finishing nails.

note: the trim strips may be slightly deformed from long-term storage, they may be driven by a “propeller”. For structural rigidity, drive a nail from the top at the very edge on each side of the upper casing so that the connecting element passes vertically through the junction of the oblique cuts.

Small gaps remain at the joints; they are filled with sealant to match the color of the casing. To avoid leaving any traces when removing excess sealant with a sponge, stick strips of masking tape on both sides of the gap, close to it. Apply sealant from the tube and immediately remove excess with a wet and wrung out sponge. Then you can remove the masking tape. The same operation is performed with the second joint; using the same principle, you can mask the longitudinal joints of the door frame and frame, as well as any other joints of the door frame elements. The caps of the finishing nails can be easily masked with a wax pencil to match the color of the trim.

At this point, the installation of the platbands is completed. The final result depends on how carefully and accurately the work was performed at each stage.

Video on the topic “installation of interior door frames”:

  • Main types of platbands
  • Preparing the work area
  • Using nails
  • Liquid Nails
  • Telescopic models

How to properly attach platbands to doors - this question often becomes relevant when renovating a house. Doing this yourself is actually quite simple if you know some of the nuances regarding the types of products and methods of fixing them around the perimeter of the opening.

There are several ways to attach door frames

MAIN TYPES OF FITTINGS

Before we look at how to attach platbands to interior doors, you should familiarize yourself with their main types. The installation method directly depends on the specific type of product.

Based on the material of manufacture, they are distinguished:

  • wooden;
  • from pressed paper;
  • metal.

Types of door frames depending on the material of manufacture

For budget options, pressed products are used. In modern interiors, the most popular type is products made from MDF; moreover, unlike other types of platbands, any mounting option is available for MDF.

By appearance and configuration they are distinguished:

  • straight;
  • rounded;
  • carved and figured;
  • typesetting.

Variations of platbands according to configuration

Additionally, a capital can be installed above the upper casing. This element plays an excellent decorative role, especially when it comes to the classic style and variations close to it.

As for fastening methods, platbands can be installed in three main ways:

  • on ordinary nails;
  • for glue “liquid nails”;
  • according to the “tongue and groove” principle.

In order for the opening to look organic, it is important to maintain optimal dimensions for all details. Cutting elements can be done in two ways: at right angles or 45 degrees. In the first case, the top strip is most often installed above the sidewalls, and its edge must be processed. When making an oblique cut, you need to create an ideal angle so that the fragments fit together without gaps. It is better to use a miter box for cutting.

PREPARATION OF THE WORK AREA

Before you begin directly attaching the platbands, you should properly prepare the working surface. The entire list of work can be divided into several stages:

  1. Installation of the box. Platbands serve as a kind of decor for doors, as they can create an impressive frame and hide minor wall defects. Consequently, their installation must be done at the very end after installing the doors.
  2. Removing foam. After the box has dried, it is necessary to cut off the excess polyurethane foam in order to create an even level between the wall and the tray; this is best done with a utility knife.
  3. Removing irregularities. If, when installing the door leaf and frame, small defects appear on the wall, for example, chipped concrete, they can be repaired with plaster; this will not only facilitate installation, but also improve the strength of the opening. To ensure that no gaps remain during the installation process, the surface for attaching the platbands must be flat.
  4. Wall decoration. Before installing the trim, it is necessary to complete all finishing work: painting, wallpapering, etc.
  5. Cleaning. Remove all dust and other debris from the surface; when using glue, you must additionally degrease the perimeter of the opening.

Preparing the work area for installing the door casing

USING NAILS

The most traditional way to install platbands is to use nails. In order to hide the attachment points as much as possible, special miniature nails are used; their peculiarity is the almost complete absence of a head.

In order to properly nail the trims onto the door, you need to align them level. Since when installing on a wall, distortions or gaps may occur that were not present on a flat surface, it is recommended to leave a small excess of material when cutting.

Since nails without heads are used for interior door frames, try not to damage the coating of the cladding itself. It is most convenient to work with a small hammer. You can mark the joint location in advance using an awl.

In order to cover the nails on the platbands, they usually use a special mastic or grout to match the coating. Minor damage can be masked with paint, a felt-tip pen or pencil.

The use of nails is a traditional way of attaching platbands

LIQUID NAILS

Another method of attaching platbands involves the use of special glue. The most popular option is the so-called liquid nails. This composition provides quick adhesion to almost any surface.

Let's look at how to properly fasten platbands without ordinary nails.

To do this, it is necessary to initially determine the exact position of each element. After this, apply a small amount of glue to the back of the plank and press it against the wall. If glue oozes out from under the casing, wipe it off immediately. It is advisable to apply only a few dots to prevent spreading.

You can secure the platbands either completely without nails, using glue, or by combining these two methods, this will ensure greater structural strength.

Fastening platbands with liquid nails simplifies the process

TELESCOPIC MODELS

The simplest is to attach telescopic trims to interior doors. It is made without nails, but can be supplemented with glue for greater strength. Installation features are directly related to their design.

Installing trim on doors: two installation methods

The fact is that the edges of the platbands, when connected, coincide with the edge of the extension or loot. The principle of coupling is “tongue and groove”.

Telescopic trims are attached strictly to the groove of the box strip

In other words, one part goes inside the other. Thus, in order to install such products, you just need to saw off the excess and join the parts. The protrusion of the element fits into a recess in the door frame. Then you need to set the required distance, which is adjusted by the size of the recess.

Regardless of which installation method you choose for a particular situation, you should be careful, since one awkward movement can ruin the entire structure. If there are unevenness on the wall, it is necessary to first level them so that there are no gaps, this applies to absolutely all models of platbands, regardless of the material of manufacture and configuration.

Video: https://youtu.be/Hq2mNmacACs

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Installing platbands on the door frame is the final stage of constructing the entire door structure. Cash-outs, first of all, serve as a decorative element that covers the interface between the entrance wall opening and the door frame. Correct selection of the color and texture of the element, which should be identical or as close as possible to the shade and material of the door being installed, will help to refine and give a decent appearance.

The final decoration of the doorway should be done at the final stage of renovation of the entire room - after whitewashing, painting and wallpapering the walls. This, at first glance, simple work requires some attention and accuracy. The problem here is the precise fit and correct installation of the trim on the door - without any gaps or distortions.

Types and classification of platbands

A large assortment of platbands on the building materials market makes the choice easier, and its diversity allows for some classification of platbands. They are divided:

  • by material - wooden, plastic, metal, composite;
  • in shape - flat, rounded, curly;
  • according to the installation method - overhead and telescopic.

Door trim can also include a decorative element such as a capital. It is made mainly from solid wood and decorated with a sophisticated engraving pattern, which gives the entire room sophistication and aristocracy.

When installing trims on interior doors, it is advisable to focus on the materials from which the door itself is made. If the door leaf is lined with veneer or made of MDF, then you will not have to select material for cashing. In this case, laminated MDF trim will be the most suitable.

It is impossible to give preference to any form - it is a matter of taste. However, it is worth remembering that classic flat strips for self-assembly will be more convenient to use and will help to avoid defects.

Installing overhead trim on the door involves directly attaching them to the door frame using glue or nails. Installation of telescopic platbands, due to their design features, can be carried out without the use of any special elements. Such cashing does not cause distortions and does not require additional fastenings.

Telescopic trims

Their design difference is the presence of a special splined protrusion, made at a right angle and inserted into the longitudinal groove of the door frame. Such platbands make it visually monolithic, leaving the fasteners invisible. They are intended for arranging non-standard openings.

For walls that are too thick compared to the door frame, the installation of additional extensions may be required. By using them to correct the difference between the thickness of the enclosing structure and the width of the frame, you can achieve a perfectly neat appearance of the installed door.

Assembly and installation of platbands

To begin with, determine the internal dimensions of the vertical cashing in one of the following ways:

  • using a tape measure, measure the distance from the floor to the junction of the upper transverse and side longitudinal beams of the door frame;
  • make a risk on the platband attached in place.

The resulting mark will become the starting point for the future cut. Carefully, maintaining an angle of 45 degrees, the plank is cut so that its size on the outside is larger than on the inside.

Using a miter box will greatly simplify your work.

When determining the cutting lines on the trim, it should be taken into account that on different sides of the door leaf their direction will be different. Don’t forget that each plank will require individual measurements. And one more thing - you should start installing cashing from the side of the hinges of the door that opens towards you.

The prepared side trims are not nailed tightly and only with two nails - one closer to the floor, the other in the middle. A blank for the top bar is inserted into the gap left on top and markings are drawn on it in place for future cutting. This will allow you to get rid of errors and the formation of large gaps as much as possible during the subsequent mating of all elements.

You can adjust the location of all the cash by lightly tapping the sides of the planks, previously attached to nails. If the gaps are large enough, then one nail is removed from the plank, after which it is given the desired position. The final installation of the prepared trims on the door is possible only after carefully adjusting them to size, maintaining the correct angles and minimal gaps of the parts being connected.

Fastening

To fasten cash, it is best to use thin nails, the heads of which are removed after being punched into the door frame with pliers. A uniform step of about 15 centimeters will be quite sufficient for reliable fastening. If the adjacent walls of the doorway are smooth, then it will be enough to secure the platbands in the upper and lower parts with a pair of nails driven in the middle of the strip.

Copper or galvanized nails should be used, as over time they do not cause dark stains on the wood, even in rooms with excessive humidity.

To fasten MDF trim, a slightly different technology is required. To work with them, you should first drill blind holes with a thin drill so that when driving a nail, you can minimize the risk of damage to the strip. The same additional preparation must be made when using self-tapping screws as fasteners. But they will require slightly larger diameter holes in order to recess the caps, which are subsequently covered with plugs to match the casing, or sealed with acrylic putty before painting it.

The use of adhesives or liquid nails is used only for perfectly smooth walls adjacent to the door frame. Such fastening is not possible in rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms and toilets.

Little tricks

When choosing wooden trims, you should pay attention to the quality of drying the boards.

How to install platbands on interior doors yourself

Poorly dried wood:

  • has an uneven color;
  • has blue spots on the surface;
  • When tapped, it makes a dull sound.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, the length of the cashing should be measured with a margin of at least 1 cm, which will be useful when adjusting the corners of the parts to be joined. It is easier to cut off the excess from the opposite end of the plank.

You should not use a moisture-resistant marker for marking on the front side. It will be difficult to remove the drawn lines by normal erasing.

Trimming trims is best done with a miter saw. It will provide a clean cut without chipping. It is easier to carefully adjust the cut corners with a belt sander. With its help you can achieve perfect joining in the corners.

If gaps appear when installing trim on the door, they can be made almost invisible by using a beeswax-based mixture, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Heated and brought to the state of a plastic mass, it will perfectly fill the resulting cracks.

Visually, a cash register that rises 10 centimeters above the doorway looks better, and the uniform style of the rooms in the apartment will be ensured by the same trim on all doors.

06/15/2015 at 10:06

From which it follows that liquid nail glue can be used when working on almost any surface, but more on that later. Liquid nail glue is nothing more than just a dense adhesive mass placed in plastic tubes for convenience. Now let’s talk about where ordinary construction adhesive got its name from.

Initially, when it was first produced, liquid nails adhesive was just an ordinary universal construction adhesive for different surfaces! But since this construction adhesive was produced by a company with a name like Liquid Nails, those who know English understand, those who don’t, I’ll explain:

Liquid Nails is nothing more than liquid nails and our people, or maybe marketers, have attached liquid nails to the word glue.

Sticking platbands using adhesives

You just need to ensure complete adherence of the platbands to the wall and door frame.

Any adhesive materials can withstand a certain load and, with a large weight of the platbands, will not be able to properly hold the platbands on the plane. When choosing one or another adhesive composition, check the weight and properties of the platbands. You can glue the platbands on liquid nails, or you can fix them on silicone or polyurethane foam.

Miter saw for trimming trims

In order for the platbands to hold firmly, they must be properly adjusted and secured.

Door installation in Vladimir and the region

It is more convenient and better to cut the plinth to the already installed platband, since there is less chance of miscalculation and making a mistake. If the wallpaper is glued before installation (or the walls are painted), then the casing will hide the edge of the wallpaper sheet behind it. If the wallpaper is pasted after installing the trim, then the wallpaper adjacent to it can be quite noticeable and not aesthetically pleasing. If the doorway is significantly larger than the size of the door block, then when wallpapering you need to leave an allowance on the sides and top, otherwise the casing may not reach the edge of the wallpaper as in this photo above.

There are two traditional options for sawing the platband - at an angle of 90° and at an angle of 45°.

The 90° angle is used on straight, even platbands without curves at the request of the customer.

Useful articles and reviews on repair topics

This way it will be easier not to get confused and this is a guarantee that everything will turn out beautifully.

– As you know, the casing must “stand” on the floor, and in order to avoid a gap between the casing and the floor, the lower edge of the casing must be sawed off (trimmed) at an angle of 90°, since the factory cut may not always be correct. Of course, everything depends on the specific manufacturer, the quality of the product, its quality level, but this preparation procedure should not be ignored.

– Place 2 platbands against each other with the back sides to see if they are the same width; it happens that the planks differ in width by 0.5-1 mm.

How to insulate a window slope?

Finishing nails are convenient because if the need arises, you can always dismantle the casing and then reinstall it. For work, take nails with a flattened head, 40 mm long and 1.4 mm in diameter. To make the work go faster, make holes in the platbands in advance at a distance of 5-7.5 centimeters. After you drive the nails in with a side cutter, remove the heads and mask these places with a special wax pencil that matches the color.

The second method is to fasten the platbands using liquid nails.

Installation of interior doors

This will avoid splitting and, accordingly, the formation of cracks on the visible part of the box.

Installation of interior doors. Stage 6. Installation of the box. Insert the assembled box into the opening and secure it with wedges from above so that approximately the same distance remains on the right and left. Align the box with the wall on the hinge side. Check the vertical with a level. Secure the box to the wall with self-tapping screws at the top and bottom.

Installation and installation of skirting boards and platbands

In the store we find the required baseboard and measure its length. We take the number we have and divide it by the length of the plinth, and the amount of plinth we need is ready.

Skirting boards can be made of wood or plastic, with or without cable duct. The wooden plinth mainly goes to the laminate or parquet board, so you should not press the plinth tightly against it. There are two ways to attach wooden skirting boards - using self-tapping screws and liquid nails.

Installation of platbands is the final stage in the installation of interior doors.

Installation of door trim with liquid nails

1. Filing of standing frames. Using a tape measure, measure the distance H from the floor to the bottom edge of the groove in the top block of the box (Fig. 34); subtract the height of the plinth block from this size, you will get the size to which you need to cut the standing frame. Saw the pillar trims at an angle of 90°.

2. Connection of platbands with decorative elements. Place the perforated plate into the groove on the back of the trim and decorative element.

Correct installation of interior doors

The box parts are connected using self-tapping screws.

The box is installed as follows:

The doors are installed on hinges pre-attached to the door and frame. You need to first hang the canvas, checking how smoothly the door closes; to adjust, place the spacers slightly below the door handle and above the top hinge. After this, you need to check the door again - for example, it should not move on its own in a half-closed position.

When the leaf is installed perfectly straight, the joint between the door frame and the opening can be filled with polyurethane foam, after first removing dust and wetting the surfaces.

Installation ()

Creating a perfect cut requires the use of a miter box. It is recommended to glue the joints formed during the installation process. The plinth will be removable if you put plugs on the heads of the screws.

For greater clarity, look below, it will illustrate all the above information and give you confidence in your abilities!

If you do not have the opportunity or desire to do the installation yourself, you can contact us; our specialists will quickly and efficiently complete this work!

The cost of installing a plinth is from 190 rubles.

Installation of door trim with liquid nails

Let's take a closer look at them.

1. Have you decided to install doors in your room, apartment, or country house yourself? A commendable decision, the success of which directly depends on your plumbing and carpentry skills. If you think that installing an interior door is easy, feel free to go into battle! It is possible to save a decent amount by losing some time.

How to install platbands on interior doors

The main thing is that the result of the work does not look like this.

Door installation

Thresholds on the frame of modern doors, as a rule, are absent, but at the request of the client they are included in the kit.

Note: A threshold is most often used in entrance doors to retain heat in the house, but it is not advisable to use it in interior doors, since it will interfere with air exchange between rooms.

If you order a door made of aged wood with a specific design, then along with it you should order hinges, escutcheons, a lock mechanism (lock or latch with a lock) and handles that best match the style of the door.

What you should know before installing a door

The door can be installed only after laying the final floor covering and after finishing the walls in the rooms between which it will be installed, i.e.

Installation of door trim with liquid nails

In this case, you do not have to deal with complex fastening devices, drilling a wall, floor or ceiling. Not only a specialist, but also any other person can work with glue.

As a rule, the packaging indicates what can be glued with this substance, how to apply it, and how long it takes to dry. In construction, adhesives are used for parquet, linoleum, carpet, ceramic tiles, laminate, porcelain tiles, ceiling panels, marble facing slabs, wooden planks, etc.

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    THANK YOU so much for the very useful information in the article. Everything is presented very clearly. It feels like a lot of work has been done to analyze the operation of the eBay store

    • Thank you and other regular readers of my blog. Without you, I would not be motivated enough to dedicate much time to maintaining this site. My brain is structured this way: I like to dig deep, systematize scattered data, try things that no one has done before or looked at from this angle. It’s a pity that our compatriots have no time for shopping on eBay because of the crisis in Russia. They buy from Aliexpress from China, since goods there are much cheaper (often at the expense of quality). But online auctions eBay, Amazon, ETSY will easily give the Chinese a head start in the range of branded items, vintage items, handmade items and various ethnic goods.

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        What is valuable in your articles is your personal attitude and analysis of the topic. Don't give up this blog, I come here often. There should be a lot of us like that. Email me I recently received an email with an offer that they would teach me how to trade on Amazon and eBay.

  • It’s also nice that eBay’s attempts to Russify the interface for users from Russia and the CIS countries have begun to bear fruit. After all, the overwhelming majority of citizens of the countries of the former USSR do not have strong knowledge of foreign languages. No more than 5% of the population speak English. There are more among young people. Therefore, at least the interface is in Russian - this is a big help for online shopping on this trading platform. eBay did not follow the path of its Chinese counterpart Aliexpress, where a machine (very clumsy and incomprehensible, sometimes causing laughter) translation of product descriptions is performed. I hope that at a more advanced stage of development of artificial intelligence, high-quality machine translation from any language to any in a matter of seconds will become a reality. So far we have this (the profile of one of the sellers on eBay with a Russian interface, but an English description):
    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/7a52c9a89108b922159a4fad35de0ab0bee0c8804b9731f56d8a1dc659655d60.png