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Choosing a place to plant honeysuckle

​Tamp down the soil around the seedling and water it with water at the rate of one bucket per seedling. Then mulch the seedling with dry soil, peat or humus. The seedling should not be pruned or shortened to avoid delays in growth and development.​

​ The first fruits can be expected at the end of May.​

​Honeysuckle Blue spindle has a weak attachment of the stalk and falls off, so it is better to place it under the bush during fruiting non-woven material, which allows the plant to breathe, but is an excellent bedding for fallen berries. The berries are sweet, with a barely noticeable bitterness in the aftertaste. The body accepts the first harvest of summer with gratitude.​

Planting honeysuckle on the site

​The plant must have loose soil, filled with the necessary nutrition, which will allow the root system to quickly develop. Edible honeysuckle, planted and cared for according to all the rules, will quickly begin to bear fruit.

When to replant edible honeysuckle is decided based on the circumstances. So, for good survival of a bush with bare roots, only autumn planting is suitable. In the spring, you can plant a seedling obtained using the container growing method.​

• As for pruning edible honeysuckle, the seedling after autumn planting is first pruned at a height of 7 - 10 cm only in the spring. This technique causes the rapid growth of 2 - 4 replacement shoots, which will later become the skeletal basis of the bush. Without pruning, the plant will first grow branches in the upper part, and restoration shoots will begin to appear only in the second year of fruiting. In the future, pruning the formed honeysuckle bush consists primarily of sanitary maintenance of optimal density - the annual early spring removal of intersecting and broken branches inside the bush. Since flower buds and one-year-old shoots are concentrated mainly on the periphery (in the upper part), the main thickening is formed there, and the bottom of the bush quickly becomes bare. To “even out” fruiting along the entire length of the branches, you can tilt the peripheral branches outward from the bush and fix them in this position using hooks or wire arches. Thanks to this, the bushes are spreading and productive from base to top, well ventilated and illuminated. On tilted branches, more renewal shoots are formed, which can either be tilted or slightly shortened to encourage branching. Large, early-ripening fruits are often formed on shortened shoots, but since these branches quickly become bare, it is recommended to replace them with new ones after 2 - 3 years to maintain productivity.
• ​Among known species honeysuckle (and there are about 14 of them in Russia alone) in cultivation are exclusively decorative and species with edible fruits. Ornamental ones are often climbing or liana-like shrubs, reaching a height of 1.5 - 2 m (Henry's honeysuckle, fire) to 5 - 7 m (Brown's honeysuckle, climbing, ciliated, Japanese, honeysuckle, etc.). The fruits of these species are unsuitable for food, so they are valued more for their colorful and incredibly aromatic flowering in late spring - early summer, which favorable conditions may repeat in early autumn. And the ripening berries - bright red, pink, orange-yellow or black-purple - are decorated until they fall off decorative honeysuckle the rest of the time.​
• ​short, weak shoots that do not have time to ripen by winter;

In addition, the bushes should be fed with an infusion of manure or humus with the addition of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

​You can also replant older plants. The only condition is that a honeysuckle like the one in the photo, planting and caring for which is carried out already in the sixth year of life, must be pre-cut to 50 cm in height. Due to the absence of a large crown and mass of foliage, this will simplify the bush’s adaptation to new conditions. For pre-pruned bushes 5–7 years old, the planting holes are widened and deepened to 50 cm.​

Both fruiting honeysuckle bushes and ornamental plants of this species have been attracting the attention of domestic gardeners for over a century. The variety of species and forms of honeysuckle allows the crop to be used when decorating arches, as a hedge, in group and single plantings. Almost all honeysuckle bushes are excellent honey plants. Varieties with beneficial edible berries regularly enjoy a bountiful harvest. How difficult is it to plant this shrub on your site? And how to care for honeysuckle so that the plant maximizes all its qualities?

• ​The better the growing conditions, the more beautiful the bushes and the larger the harvest. For the first 3 years, the plant only needs timely watering and weeding and the use of mulch. The first 3 years after planting, honeysuckle grows slowly, since all the energy is directed to the growth of the root system, then the growth of the ground part increases significantly.​
• The berries taste like blueberries and blueberries. They can be sweet and sour, sweet and sour, simply sweet and aromatic. Harvesting is carried out as the berries ripen, preferably in small containers, since the berries are very delicate. The taste depends not only on the variety, but also on weather conditions and moisture availability during the ripening period. According to their own healing properties Honeysuckle is not inferior to black currant. It contains vitamins C, P, carotene, as well as magnesium, potassium, microelements: iodine, manganese, copper, iron.​
• ​Honeysuckle Cinderella passed varietal tests and was registered in the register in 1983.​

​An important step will be a preliminary filling of the entire plantation area with mineral fertilizers, since in the future fertilizing with fertilizers is undesirable. Therefore, for continuous digging you need to add 2 matchbox superphosphate, one potassium salt and a bucket of organic matter for each square meter stripes. The planting site begins to be prepared two weeks before the time when edible honeysuckle is to be transplanted to a permanent location.

• The plant is propagated in several ways:
• ​Rejuvenating pruning of honeysuckle should not be carried out before the 8th - 10th year of life. The oldest branches need to be cut out at a height of 8 - 10 cm, and next year, from the growing ones, leave one of the strongest replacement shoots and remove the rest. Some of the outer annual shoots that are not planned to be left for replacement can also be shortened and used for fruiting in a short time (2 - 3 years), after which they can be replaced. If necessary, you can also cut out part of the fruitful branch, but it is optimal to carry out only minor thinning on young bushes, and on adults, combine it with shortening of annual trees and with rejuvenation (on old ones) so that the number of branches of different ages in an adult plant it did not exceed 15.​

​The starting material for the creation of many popular varieties of honeysuckle today are species with edible fruits: Altai (L. altaica), edible (L. edulis), Regel's honeysuckle (L. regeliana), Pallas's honeysuckle (L. pallasii), Kamchatka (L. kamtschatica ) and Turchaninov's honeysuckle (L. turczaninovii). All of them are included in the polymorphic tetraploid species Blue Honeysuckle (L. caerulea) and more often than not they come to gardeners’ plots under this name. The fruits of the original species do not have any special taste characteristics, but the berries of the varieties bred on their basis are distinguished by a pleasant aroma, sweet or sweet-sour taste and relatively large (weighing up to 1.5 g) sizes. Since all blue honeysuckle shrubs are considered frost-resistant and equally resistant to diseases and pests, when choosing a variety you should pay attention specifically to the taste and ripening time of the berries. The Kamchatka varieties “Desertnaya”, “Izbrannitsa”, “Pavlovskaya”, “Amphora” are considered the sweetest, and the berries of the varieties “Cinderella”, “Tomichka”, “Pamyati Gidzyuk”, “Bakcharskaya”, “Long-fruited” will pamper you with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. etc. For high-yielding varieties of berries " Blue bird", "Sirius", "Fire Opal", "Iliad" are characterized by a bitterness that disappears only after processing (in jam, compotes). “Tomichka”, “Dlinnoplodnaya”, “Bakcharskaya”, “Start”, etc. are distinguished by early ripening periods, the varieties “Blue Bird”, “Pavlovskaya”, “Zolushka” are mid-ripening, and “Desertnaya”, “Roksana” are late-ripening. “Berel”, etc. When choosing a honeysuckle variety, it is also recommended to take into account the tendency of some varieties (“Tomichka”, “Bakcharskaya”, “Vasyuganskaya”, etc.) to crumble, which, when planted in remote summer cottages, can lead to partial loss of the harvest. ​

How to care for honeysuckle?

​sick, dry and damaged branches.​

Before the onset of cold weather, the tree trunk circles under the plants are covered with peat or sawdust, with a layer of up to 5 cm.

• ​Between seedlings that are about to grow well, it is important to leave a distance of at least one and a half to two meters.​
• ​Honeysuckle, whether it is a fruit shrub or a lush flowering vine, is characterized by simple agricultural technology and does not require special painstaking care or conditions.​
• ​Water.

​

​Properly selected seedlings take root and grow very well. Typically, annual seedlings or rooted cuttings are available for sale. To choose the right plants, you should:

The bush is distinguished by early fruiting, in the third year.

The holes are dug at a distance of one and a half meters, 40 cm deep and up to half a meter wide. Two-thirds of the hole is filled with the top fertile layer, the plant is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, the stem is buried to three centimeters, the hole is watered and mulched on top to prevent crust formation.

Pruning honeysuckle and forming bushes

​seeds;​

​Most ornamental honeysuckles are very resistant to diseases and pests, but edible honeysuckles are relatively resistant and under unfavorable conditions (thickening, heat, etc.) suffer from powdery mildew and leaf spot. To combat diseases, the drug “Topaz” is used, early spring preventive spraying is carried out with a copper-soap solution (100 g of copper sulfate per bucket of water) or foundation (0.2%), etc. Of the pests, the greatest harm can be caused by honeysuckle, scale insects and leaf rollers. , which after harvesting are destroyed by spraying with solutions of chlorophos (0.2%) or karbofos (0.3%). Due to the fact that honeysuckle is very easily propagated (by cuttings, layering and seeds), its seedlings are often offered at spontaneous markets, and often seedlings that do not retain varietal characteristics. When purchasing an unverified planting material a gardener may doom himself to purchasing a bush with tasteless, bitter berries, and as a result - disappointment in the crop. Therefore, it is recommended to select varietal specimens of honeysuckle exclusively from trusted nurseries. The best for planting are 2-year-old seedlings that have 2-4 elastic branches about 30-40 cm long and branching healthy roots. And since blue honeysuckle is a self-sterile plant, for its successful fruiting, 2 - 3 bushes should be planted on the site with the same flowering periods (or 2 - 3 bushes of early, middle and late varieties).

​Massive fruiting of honeysuckle occurs on strong one-year shoots, so they cannot be shortened. When pruning light-loving crops, the main attention is paid to the branches directed deep into the crown. They interfere with the growth of neighboring shoots, interfere with pollination and berry development. They are cut out first.​

• ​To obtain berries with decent taste, it is not enough to plant on the plot high-yielding variety. It is necessary to provide the plant sufficient watering and monitor the condition of the soil under the plantings.​
• The root system is straightened and sprinkled with soil so that the root collar of the bush is at soil level.
• ​When choosing a site for planting, you need to take into account that best growth and abundant flowering are possible only in a well-lit area with slight shading. If the plant falls into dense shade, the shoots lengthen and the number of cutting buds decreases. You don’t have to wait for friendly growth and abundant fruiting, when honeysuckle is planted in excessively dry or, conversely, moist, low-lying areas.
• Honeysuckle is a moisture-loving plant, so in hot and dry weather, especially in spring and early summer, moderate watering is required. Water 3-4 times per season with 10 liters of water per plant. In hot, dry summer conditions without watering, bitterness may appear in the berries.​

​do not buy adult plants more than 1.5 m high. They take root worse and do not bear fruit for a long time;​

The bush is low, only 0.7 meters, propagated by seedlings, and is very decorative. The yield is impressive, 20 c/ha, up to three kilograms per bush. The berries are large, black with a bluish coating. The berries have a strawberry flavor, the skin is soft, and the surface is smooth. The bush is resistant to frost and does not succumb to numerous pests. He loves it if they choose “Amphora” or “Leningrad Giant” as his neighbors.​

• Caring for planting edible honeysuckle consists of one-time hilling of the bushes in the spring and adding mulch. In early spring you can feed with urea for rapid growth of green mass.​
• ​cuttings;​
• ​Some may think that honeysuckle is not an acquired taste. After all, among berry bushes there are quite a few who spoil gardeners every year stable harvests more tasty fruits. Honeysuckle not only remains “modest” in terms of yield for a long time, but can also present a surprise with the taste of the berries. Nevertheless, this crop, in comparison with other berries, has absolutely undeniable advantages that any gardener is unlikely to resist. Firstly, honeysuckle is today considered the most frost-resistant and undemanding shrub during the growing season. Secondly, it ripens during the period of “vitamin hunger” earlier than even the most early varieties strawberries Thirdly, honeysuckle fruits are characterized by a rich composition of micro- and macroelements, vitamins, sugars, acids, etc., and the combination of complementary P-active substances and vitamin C enhances their healing and healing effect on the body. Fourthly, all parts of this plant, as an invaluable gift from the taiga, can be used as an anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer and diuretic, for the treatment of hypertension and cardiovascular diseases.​
• ​Planting of both decorative and edible types of honeysuckle is recommended in the fall - at the end of September - October - since the buds of this shrub (especially the early varieties) wake up very early in the spring. The choice of location for all species should include good lighting and protection of plants from northern winds (for example, by buildings) - this accelerates the start of their growing season and promotes abundant flowering and fruiting. It is also recommended, “with a reserve for the future,” to provide edible honeysuckles with sufficient space (an area of ​​2x2.5 m), and decorative ones with support. Since this shrub expands its crown with age up to 35 years of age, reaching a diameter of 1.5 - 2 meters, close placement of plants (at a distance of 1 m) causes thickening of plantings and reduced fruiting.
• ​How and when to prune honeysuckle if an adult bush produces less and less yields? Starting from eight to ten years of age, honeysuckle ages and needs rejuvenating pruning, including:

How to care for honeysuckle in the hot season? Honeysuckle does not have a great need for water, but in hot, dry weather, especially when the berries are ripening, additional watering of 10 liters per bush is necessary. Otherwise, the soil dries out and becomes compacted.​

Planting, growing, caring for honeysuckle - video

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Honeysuckle: planting and care.

​Bring into the pit necessary fertilizers, for example, 40 grams of potassium-containing product, 60–100 grams of superphosphate and about five kilograms of mullein.​

Types and varieties of honeysuckle

Honeysuckle's requirements for soil composition are very modest. The shrub prefers loose, moderately moist soil with acidity up to 8.5 units. When planting honeysuckle, be sure to provide good drainage, and fertile soil A mixture of three parts of turf soil, peat and sand, taken one part at a time, is quite suitable.

​Feeding.

​

Selection of planting material. Planting honeysuckle

​be sure to buy at least 3 different varieties to ensure cross-pollination;​

​Honeysuckle Bakcharskaya is famous as a variety that is resistant to shedding and is very productive. With beautiful large up to 1.4 grams, sweet and sour berries. This variety ripens later, but it is resistant to diseases and pests, and drought-resistant. The spreading bush does not thicken; it regulates the growth of green mass.

Edible honeysuckle has more than 200 varieties. They are divided according to different indicators:

Honeysuckle care

​by layering;​ But perhaps the most interesting thing about honeysuckle is that its fruits contain the microelement selenium, which is rarely found in berries - the “element of longevity”, which, together with other useful components, makes these blue berries a kind of “elixir of life”. Thus, by planting this crop on the site, the gardener receives unique opportunity

It is believed that honeysuckle is not too demanding in terms of nutritional value and soil composition, but practice has shown that it develops better on slightly acidic, well-fertilized sandy and loamy soils. It grows worse in swampy areas, although it is considered moisture-loving, so when groundwater is close (up to 0.5 m), planting on ridges is required. Pits measuring 40x40x40 cm for planting honeysuckle should be placed at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m, and filled with high doses of fertilizers - humus or compost (2 buckets), potassium salt and double superphosphate (200 g each) or ash (1 - 2 cups ). Fertilizers must be thoroughly mixed with the excavated soil and the holes must be filled 2/3 - 3/4, after which the seedlings must be planted in unfertilized garden soil. Such soil enrichment guarantees stable establishment of plants, since during the first 5 years they actively build up the root system. When planting in freshly dug holes, it is necessary to provide for soil subsidence and place each seedling so that its root collar after shrinkage is buried by a maximum of 3 - 4 cm. After the procedure, the seedlings are watered abundantly and the tree trunk circles are mulched with humus, finely chopped straw or sawdust with a layer 4 cm thick. ​

​serious crown thinning,​

​Plants that do not receive enough moisture are forced to either drop some of the fruits, or the berries ripen dry with a distinct bitter taste.​

​If you initially fertilize the soil, the plant will not need additional feeding for two years after planting. How do you care for honeysuckle as soon as the seedling gets into the ground?

​Seedlings with a root system protected by a lump of earth and a container can be planted in the garden from April to October, without fear that the plant will have difficulty acclimatizing and getting sick.​

​Feeding is applied once every 2-3 years. Honeysuckle prefers organic fertilizers. In the spring, a bucket of humus or rotted manure is added under each bush, and in the fall, 150 g of wood ash. Nitrogen fertilizing must be applied very early, literally while the snow is melting. To do this, 1 tablespoon of urea per bucket of water for each bush is enough. Before flowering, you can carry out foliar fertilizing with fertilizers in which beneficial substances are in chelated form, such as “Master”, “Solution”, “Aquarin” at the rate of 20 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water.​

​choose varieties whose fruits do not have bitterness.​

​At the height of spring, we dream of enjoying the first berries from our own garden as quickly as possible, which, as a rule, cannot be expected until mid-June. However, by growing honeysuckle on your plot, you can open berry season already at the end of May. A very plastic, cold-resistant, unpretentious and early-ripening crop, honeysuckle is an amazing find in modern gardening, which is definitely worth planting.​

​according to ripening time;​

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Planting edible honeysuckle in the country and caring for plants

​by dividing the bush.​

Why is honeysuckle valuable?

​Among the many priceless fruits and berries grown in gardens, special place occupied by cultivated varieties of edible honeysuckle. Its bushes delight with the annual harvest of the first summer berries. The shrub is not afraid of frost up to 50 degrees, and the flowers are preserved even with return frosts up to 8 0. It is important to provide the development of the plant with moisture in early spring, and there will be a harvest.

​It should be especially emphasized that in comparison with other shrubs, the blue honeysuckle (edible) ground part grows too slowly for the first 3-4 years - by the end of the fourth year it grows to a height of a meter and reaches only 80 cm in diameter. Many gardeners consider this a pathology , they try to “spur” its activity with frequent feeding and pruning, which ultimately leads to the exact opposite result. The secret here lies in the peculiarities of cultural development. Despite the early start of the growing season, the most intensive period of shoot growth in honeysuckle lasts a maximum of 10 days and ends completely in June, and total time activity from the beginning of flowering to fruit ripening is only 30 - 40 days. This shrub sometimes “manages” to rest until autumn, bloom a second time and even bear fruit, but long shoots in at a young age it still doesn’t increase. Please note: unlike edible species, decorative honeysuckles, on the contrary, are characterized by increased growth (sometimes up to 1 - 1.5 m per year), which allows the shrub, even after freezing, to quickly recover and fully bloom.​

How to grow honeysuckle in the garden

​cutting out all branches weakened by pests or diseases;

Planting and caring for edible honeysuckle

Caring for honeysuckle in the fall is not limited to applying fertilizers and loosening the soil. After the leaf fall is complete, it is time to prune the bushes. Depending on the type of plant and its purpose, crown formation proceeds differently. Decorative vines and plants planted for the purpose of creating hedges only need sanitary removal of weak, diseased and damaged branches, as well as giving the bush a shape. For fruit-bearing honeysuckle, not only the appearance, but also the number of ripened berries depends on the quality of pruning. Therefore, pruning such plants has its own characteristics. The planting site is thoroughly watered.​Carefully transferred to landing hole The seedling is quickly accepted and does not require, apart from fertilizing and watering, any special care measures. If you have to plant honeysuckle with an open root system, then the most favorable time for this is considered to be the period from the second half of August to October. This is due to:

​Pruning.

• ​
• ​For planting seedlings, select a well-lit, flat or slightly sloping area. Most varieties of honeysuckle prefer sunny locations, but tolerate partial shade. Plants planted in the shade do not bloom well, which means you won’t have to wait for a harvest.​
• Honeysuckle can grow in one place for more than 30 years. This is an extremely winter-hardy plant: its growth buds and wood can tolerate frosts down to – 50 °C, and its roots and flower buds can withstand temperatures down to – 40 °C. Buds, flowers and young ovaries are not afraid of frosts down to – 8 °C.​
• ​by crumbling;​

​The seed method is more often used in nurseries. As they grow, the bushes are planted at a distance of 20 cm, grown and sold at the age of three.​

​In a season when there are so few vitamins, blue droplets begin to appear on a beautiful bush with pale delicate greenery that melt in your mouth. The body, yearning for natural berries, almost does not notice the slight bitterness of the medicinal fruits. The berry contains the same amount of well-known vital vitamin C as a lemon. Only lingonberries have more potassium in honeysuckle, and in other elements and vitamins it surpasses all known berries grown in Russian gardens. And the fruits contain all the vitamins and minerals a person needs in a combination that is optimal for absorption.​ ​When it comes to wintering honeysuckle, many gardeners confidently rely on the characteristic of its incredible frost resistance: this crop can withstand temperatures down to minus 50 °C without noticeable damage, and during the flowering period it does not suffer from return frosts even at minus 5 - 8 °C. However, practice has shown that during long winter thaws, the shrub can prematurely leave the dormant state and when renewed severe frosts blossoming are damaged. In years with such an abnormal winter, a decrease in honeysuckle yield is inevitable, but no additional plant care measures, other than mulching, should be carried out for successful wintering of edible species. Light covering of young and mature bushes is recommended only for very valuable ones. decorative types(Brown's honeysuckle, Japanese, Henry's, fire).​

​removal of old branches and their replacement with tops or branches located close to the base of the bush;​

The best time to prune honeysuckle is autumn, when the foliage has fallen and the structure of the bush is clearly visible. The movement of juices in honeysuckle begins extremely early; if you do not have time to remove excess or old branches in March, you will have to wait until October. But dry shoots can be removed at any time. Honeysuckle for the first two or three years of life does not require special pruning. The development of shoots at this time occurs due to the upper buds, and the bush increases its green mass. Then the elongation of the branches gradually stops, and they begin to acquire lateral branches.​

The soil under the planted bush is mulched to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

Planting and caring for honeysuckle in a permanent place

​end of the growing season;​

​Pruning of the bush begins from 6–8 years of age. This is, first of all, sanitary pruning, which comes down to removing diseased, broken, and dried branches. It is not recommended to remove the tops of young shoots, because they contain most of the flower buds from which the berry crop is formed. Then, to continuously support annual growth, it is recommended to cut out 1-2 unproductive branches every two years. For old 15-20 year old bushes, strong anti-aging pruning “to the stump” is possible, which is carried out at a height of 0.5 m from the soil level. Due to young shoots, the shrub is able to recover within 2–3 years. It is recommended to do pruning in the fall, after leaf fall, or in early spring - in March.​

Honeysuckle is a very unpretentious plant and feels good in almost any soil. Too dry, sandy and waterlogged areas are unsuitable for planting. marshy areas. If planting is planned for autumn, it is better to do this before mid-October. This is due to the fact that already in mid-summer the plant’s growth processes end and apical buds are formed. In fact, the plant remains dormant until spring, so it tolerates planting very easily.​

The genus Honeysuckle (Lonicera) has about 200 species. Among them there are bush and climbing varieties. Climbing honeysuckle is often used as ornamental plant for vertical gardening. Of the many species of honeysuckle, only a few have edible fruits. The fruits of edible honeysuckle are eaten. These are shrubs up to 2 meters high with erect or slightly curved shoots and a compact crown. The bark is brown with red or gray tint, easily separated from the trunk by narrow longitudinal strips.​

​taste;​

Promising varieties of edible honeysuckle

​A more common method of propagation is rooting cuttings. Growing edible honeysuckle from cuttings is a quick way to obtain a harvest. To obtain rooting, you should bend the shoot from the mother bush and pin it to the ground. At the point of contact with the soil, a trench is created or a mound of earth is poured on top. Roots will develop there. A new plant with well-developed roots is separated from the mother bush only by next year.​

• ​The berries of all varieties of edible honeysuckle are a useful vitamin product.​
• ​Since the growing season of honeysuckle begins early and passes “acceleratedly,” it begins to require the gardener’s attention earlier than other plants. In the spring, during active growth, flowering and fruiting (especially during a dry spring), this crop needs regular watering and mulching around the tree trunks to retain moisture. Insufficient soil moisture at this time becomes a common cause of decreased yields of edible honeysuckle, a decrease in the size of the berries and their taste (bitterness increases). In general, it is worth saying that the taste of the berries of this crop, even of the same variety, in the same place, can change every year, because it very much depends on the weather and the sufficient supply of plants with moisture and fertilizers. Therefore, the jam prepared from them different years It may taste like blueberry, cherry, or blueberry. And planting honeysuckle on uncultivated, quickly drying areas (on virgin soil) can discredit even the most best variety with sweet berries.​
• ​Prune branches that have stopped growing to transfer them to strong branches or to tops located closer to the base of the bush.​
• ​It is generally accepted that from the age of 3, a properly formed young bush practically does not need any intervention in its growth.​
• ​Spring planting of honeysuckle is possible only if the plant enters the growing season late. More often these are decorative species, for example, alpine or small-leaved honeysuckle. It is better not to disturb fruit-bearing varieties in the spring. Caring for honeysuckle, planting at the time when the buds are reviving and the beginning of growth, threatens with serious complications.​

​Good winter hardiness of the shrub;​

​Pests and diseases.

​ ​Spring planting should be done before the growing season begins. When planted in late spring, honeysuckle does not take root well and gets sick. If there is a need to plant or transplant in late spring, then this should be done by transshipment together with big lump

land.​

​ Buds, flowers and young ovaries are not afraid of frosts down to – 8 ° C.​

​yield;​

​Rejuvenating care and planting of edible honeysuckle can be done by dividing the bush. This will require a saw and an ax, because the wood of the bush is very dense. A plant is considered established if it starts to shoot from the root after a year.​

The shrub loves a well-lit place without close groundwater and with light soil. The plant is cross-pollinated, so you should plant several plants of different varieties. Then there will be much more berry ovaries. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers will increase productivity. Honeysuckle loves ash toppings, but does not like chemicals. Only light fertilizing with urea in the spring, even before the buds open, is accepted favorably by the plant. Therefore, growing edible honeysuckle is a pleasant experience, with consistently good results.​

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Kingdom of Honeysuckle - video

In addition to timely watering, caring for honeysuckle includes periodic feeding, pruning and destruction of weeds in the rows, in which vegetables or annual flowers can be planted before the bushes grow strongly. Young plants planted in fertilized pits do not need additional nutrition for 2 years, but with the start of fruiting in early spring, to enhance shoot growth, it is recommended to carry out nitrogen fertilizing with ammonium nitrate or urea: dissolve 30 g of fertilizer in 10 liters of water and apply 1 - 1.5 liters each solution for each plant or by watering the leaves. Feeding with solutions of bird droppings (1:10) and mullein (1:6) gives good results. To introduce nutrition directly into the root zone, you can use a crowbar to punch 4-8 holes 30-60 cm deep along the perimeter of the crowns (the older the bush, the greater the depth and number of holes), pour fertilizer into them and cover them with earth. It is recommended to fertilize honeysuckle with nitrogen from the beginning of the growing season at intervals of 2 weeks and finish no later than mid-July. In June, they need to be combined with the application of complex mineral fertilizers, and in October, after the next watering, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be applied once - 15 - 20 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate - then loosened and corrected the layer of mulch. On any soil, the minimum norm of fertilizer for honeysuckle is considered to be the application of humus or compost (10 - 12 kg), ash (80 - 100 g) and double superphosphate (75 g) every 2 years in early spring or autumn under fall plowing. And on acidic soils Once every 4 years, during autumn digging, it is advisable to add additional lime - 200 - 300 g per square meter of area under the bush.

​Pruning dry branches to live, undamaged tissue.​

But if the plant initially had more than five zero-level shoots extending from the root, you will have to cut out the extra branches earlier. If this is not done, from lack of light the shoots will begin to weaken and dry out on their own. To remove and prune honeysuckle in the fall:

The growing season for honeysuckle begins in early spring. Plants quickly come to life after winter and for abundant flowering they must receive high-quality fertilizing in the form of universal fertilizer at the rate of 20–30 grams per meter of planting area. When the plant produces buds, it is good to maintain its strength by watering Kemira Universal at 20 grams per bucket of water.​

​Completion of the formation of shoots and apical buds for growth in the coming season.​

Honeysuckle, as a rule, is rarely affected by pests and diseases. This makes it possible to grow an environmentally friendly crop. The following pests are sometimes noted: leafroller, honeysuckle fingerwing, honeysuckle aphid, scale insect, honeysuckle mite. If your bush is damaged by sucking or hidden pests, then it is necessary to treat it with systemic drugs “Actelilicom”, “Confidor” or others.

​healthy honeysuckle seedling in the landscape

Honeysuckle flowers are yellowish, funnel-shaped, arranged in pairs in the axils of small pubescent leaves. Honeysuckle species are largely self-fertile. Therefore, to obtain good harvests, it is necessary to plant 2-3 different varieties of plants in the garden. Honeysuckle is characterized by cross-pollination with the help of insects. Flowering begins in early May. During flowering, the shrub has a very decorative appearance. The fruits are dark blue with a bluish waxy coating, varied in shape (usually cylindrical). An adult bush produces an average of up to 2 kg of berries. The plants gradually reach the size of black currants (1-1.5 m in height), so they are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other.​

​the size of the berries.​

How to choose seedlings

​Green cuttings begin at the end of June, when growth has already ended and lignification has not occurred. The tops of branches having three pairs of leaves are harvested. The top pair of leaves is left, and the cuttings are planted obliquely in a nursery with a damp layer of sand and peat in a ratio of 2:1, at a layer height of 20 cm. The deepened cuttings should take root in 2 weeks. They are planted in a permanent place only next year in the fall.

• The biological cycle of the bush begins with an early awakening. But the cessation of growth and lignification occurs in August. Question
• ​As practice has shown, regular fertilizing has a positive effect on the formation of flower buds (and, accordingly, the number of berries) of honeysuckle, but in the first years this crop high yields Still, it’s not worth waiting. Its fruiting gradually increases every year and averages 1.5 - 3 kg per bush only by 7 - 10 years of age, although in the next 15 years with correct pruning it practically does not reduce productivity.
• ​Places of cuts large branches must be treated with garden varnish. If the bush is neglected and thinning is not possible, it is worth removing the entire crown above 50 cm from the root collar in order to begin the formation of honeysuckle again from the next season.​

When and where to plant honeysuckle?

​powerful tops on branches that have slowed down or have already stopped growing;​

Honeysuckle responds favorably to sprinkling. This procedure, if the bush is noticeably stunted in growth, can be used to apply foliar bait, which includes superphosphate, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. When summer ends, it is important that the plants go into winter strong and healthy. How to feed honeysuckle in the fall?​

​Since honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant, the gardener should provide for the presence of bushes somewhere nearby for insects to carry pollen, otherwise they will not have to wait for the harvest from the only bush on the site.​

Against aphids, bushes can be treated 2-3 times with a weak alcohol solution (100 ml of vodka per 1 liter of water). This method will not protect the plant for a long time, but you will have time to collect the berries. During the fruiting period, chemicals cannot be used. Under unfavorable weather conditions, plants can be affected by powdery mildew, to combat which you can use, for example, Fitosporin. It should be noted that if agricultural technology is followed, such problems practically do not arise.

The planting hole should be 40x40x40 cm in size. The distance between seedlings should be 1.5-2 m, and between rows - 2-3 m, so that the plants can grow normally. Into the pit we add 100 g of long-acting organomineral fertilizer “OMU Universal” or 10–12 kg of humus or well-decomposed manure, 100 g of double superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate, 300 g of wood ash. It is necessary to make a small mound in the center of the hole, straighten the roots of the plant and cover it with loose soil. Bury the seedling into the soil so that the root collar is 5 cm below the surface of the earth.

​honeysuckle flowersberrieshoneysuckle berrieshoneysuckle bush

​A good example numerous varieties are the well-known Cinderella, Blue Spindle, Bakcharskaya. Their properties are described in detail not because they are the best, but these plants are carriers of the defining characteristics that gardeners are looking for.​

Care

​Cuttings with woody material begin in winter. Long cuttings harvested at the beginning of winter are stored in the snow or in the basement. They are planted in the ridge only in May, at an angle, leaving the top bud above the ground. The cuttings take 2-3 years to root, then they are transferred to a permanent place.

​,​ By the way, improper pruning of honeysuckle is almost the most common mistake made by gardeners planting it. Considering that the agricultural technology and preferences of this crop are in many ways similar to black currants, many not only grow these shrubs nearby, but also use similar pruning techniques, which inevitably leads to a decrease in the yield of edible honeysuckle. You should know that each annual shoot of honeysuckle in the lower part has only renewal buds (often single), and in the upper and middle - both flower and growth buds, so severe pruning will lead to the loss of most of the harvest. However, it is also not recommended to leave this shrub without the intervention of a gardener - regular sanitary thinning will not hurt in any case. Such care is especially necessary for decorative types of honeysuckle, from which frozen shoots should be removed annually, and once every 3-4 years, if necessary, rejuvenating-forming pruning should be carried out: after flowering, shorten part of the main branches exposed below to stimulate the growth of young shoots.​

Some 50 years ago, honeysuckle was known in culture only as a fast-growing ornamental shrub with climbing or erect shoots. This unpretentious, easily shaped plant was actively used for vertical gardening of arches and gazebos in private gardens and for creating alleys in parks and squares. How berry crop Honeysuckle was recommended by the All-Union Conference on the Introduction of New Useful Plants into Culture only 40 years ago, although residents of the Far East and Siberia appreciated its merits long ago. Today, the number of cultivated varieties of this shrub is replenished annually and, thanks to active campaigning advertising its value on Internet resources, there are many gardeners among gardeners who want to grow a tree that does not require special care honeysuckle in your area. But, since ignorance of the agricultural technology of this crop quickly leads to disappointment for some, it is better to familiarize yourself with it even before the planting procedure. The shoots coming from the base of the bush;

​After massive leaf fall, the soil under the honeysuckle bushes is loosened to 20 cm and 100–200 grams of sifted wood ash is added per meter of plantation.​ ​Plants of two or three years of age are most often used as planting material, for which holes are prepared for at least 30 -centimeter depth and width.​

​Having planted honeysuckle in the garden, you long years provide yourself with early healing berries and please your eyes spring bloom beautiful bushes. Honeysuckle berries can be frozen or made into jam, ground with sugar and much more. But it’s best to consume them fresh, because these are the first vitamins after a long winter! Read more about varieties, beneficial properties and recipes delicious desserts we will talk about honeysuckle in the next article. Bury the seedling into the soil so that the root collar is 5 cm below the surface of the earth.

​Next year's harvest is gradually laid in the sinuses during the summer upper leaves V flower buds. Honeysuckle begins to bear fruit in the 3rd year after planting the seedlings. The first fruits can be expected at the end of May.​

Cabbage planting and care in open ground Dahlias care and cultivation

This is not to say that honeysuckle is a common guest in garden plots. This is a wild medicinal plant that has the appearance of a bush and bears fruit with dark blue berries, reminiscent of small plums or blueberries. It is difficult to overestimate the benefits that these tart blue berries can bring to the human body. Blueberries and blackberries remain far behind in the table of record holders for the content of vitamin C and beneficial microelements.

Agriculture does not stand still and has been withdrawn over the years special kind honeysuckle - homemade or edible. And such shrubs, like other domesticated plants, need proper care. It consists not only in choosing a place for a bush, the right process planting, but also in annual care, which consists of pruning and shaping the plant. Trimming honeysuckle is not as easy as it seems at first glance. Disputes arise among agronomists every year, and there is still an opinion that this medicinal bush requires absolutely no care or pruning. But let's not allow development necessary plants leave it to chance, but follow a number of practical rules.

What does the bush and berries look like?

Not everyone is familiar with this shrub, so it should be mentioned that honeysuckle is not only a real “pharmacy” on your garden plot, but also an ornamental bush with bright and beautiful berries. The growth of such an ornamental medicinal plant usually ranges from 1 to 2 meters. In early spring, immediately after winter frosts, this crop is the first to bloom, despite the frosty temperature. This plant will also bear the first berry harvest.

Mature honeysuckle bush

When and where to plant honeysuckle?

The right place is the key to success for the vigorous growth, flowering and fruiting of any tree or shrub. This medicinal crop loves the sun's rays very much, and cannot stand cold and wind. Practice has shown that development and rapid growth will not occur in areas of the garden where the wind blows, in the shade, in lowlands and on humps. The best place is a flat surface of fertilized soil in a place where the earth often warms up in the sun.

As for choosing the season, you need to take into account the flowering time and fruiting time. Since honeysuckle is very early, it is better to plant it in mature autumn; October or the end of September is ideal (it all depends on weather conditions and the region of your residence). The hole into which you will lower the cuttings from pieces of earth should not be deeper than 45 cm. Before planting, treat the hole with fertilizers: 0.5 kg of ash for each bush. Maintain a distance of about 2 meters between the holes you dig. The main rule is to wait 5 days between digging and planting.

How and at what time of year is pruning done?

Honeysuckle is a bush with densely growing branches that can form a real ball. That is why it is so important to prune honeysuckle on time and correctly, preventing it from tangling its branches. The thickened crown will block the feeding routes, closing off sunlight and blocking the ventilation needed by the berry bush. These shortcomings will be especially noticeable after picking berries, the quantity and taste of which will greatly upset you. Instead of the usual bucket, you will barely get a handful, and the juicy and plump berries will turn into raisins.

Harvest after proper pruning

To take proper care, you need to know everything necessary rules. During the first 5 or even 7 years of honeysuckle’s life, you should not disrupt the development of the bush with pruning shears. The only available intervention can be considered cutting out the internal branches right at the base of the post in order to thin out the dense crown. Signs of the need for pruning will become noticeable on their own: the crown will thicken, the upper branches will gradually dry out and die, and the harvest will become scarce. Then we need to take plant rehabilitation seriously.

In the eighth year of life, the bush will need rejuvenating pruning, which will give strength and nutrition to the aged plant. Before the operation, you need to decide on the season. It is better to do this in the fall, namely in November, when the leaves fall to the ground, revealing the crown structure. If you wish, you can do this in very early spring, when the bush is not yet overgrown with thick greenery, but the best time is autumn. The whole process of this procedure is to get rid of the old dead top, which does not bear fruit and only takes the necessary nutrients from the plant.

1 – overgrown bush, 2 – thinned crown

The main task of anti-aging pruning is not a total change in the shape of the crown, but simply thinning out the branches. The more light, air and moisture penetrates into the middle of the crown, the healthier the honeysuckle bush develops. Do not cut branches at the base, but simply remove excess branches. After harvesting, you will instantly notice the result. On thinned branches the berries will be plumper and larger. And the quantity picked berries will increase noticeably in volume. If the printed instructions seem complicated to you, it is better to watch a video on the Internet.

How to bring a very old bush back to life?

If you become the owner of an abandoned plot and do not want to uproot all the old owner’s plantings, then you can simply rehabilitate some of them. Honeysuckle that has been growing for more than 20 years and has not been properly cared for does not necessarily need to be dug up. For such neglected case honeysuckle is trimmed onto a stump. From the name it is clear that almost all the branches will be cut off, and only the trunk will remain. Measure 40 cm from the ground and cut off all branches that exceed this length with pruning shears. Strong young shoots will grow from the new stump, which will show their strength especially well after fruiting.

How to trim a stump

Pruning on a stump should not be done in the summer, when the plant is wild and a lot of nutrients flow in its veins. It is best to do this in the fall, when the bush begins to gradually hibernate. The extreme option is March or cold spring. The main thing is that the honeysuckle does not have time to bloom.

As you can see, you can care for the plantings on your own without hired gardeners or special practice. summer cottage. Since honeysuckle is wild plant, then caring for it is not as scrupulous as for home crops. Even an inexperienced gardener can prune shrubs correctly. The main thing is to follow generally accepted rules, which consists in the choice of time and type of pruning. This should be done during the period of extinction of the bush, for the winter, but under no circumstances in the summer.

Honeysuckle is the earliest berry on our plots. Its value lies precisely in this - the first vitamins after a long winter and spring vitamin deficiency. When other crops are just blooming and beginning to set their fruits, honeysuckle has already given away its entire harvest. Therefore, the main care for this now popular shrub begins precisely after picking the berries.

Post-harvest care steps

Honeysuckle is quite unpretentious as a plant, resistant to diseases and has almost no pests. It has recently been introduced into culture and has not yet had time to be pampered by artificial human selection. Because of this unpretentiousness, owners abandon honeysuckle and pay attention to its problems when it is too late to fix something. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary, albeit minimal, but annual care and inspection of the plantation.

Pest and disease control

During harvest and throughout the season, honeysuckle bushes must be carefully inspected. All dried, damaged shoots, with burst bark, spots on the leaves, or a gray or black coating, are immediately cut out and burned. With proper care, the plant normally tolerates cutting of branches during sap flow. Cut branches close to the ground, without stumps, using a garden hacksaw or pruning shears. After each cut, the instrument is immersed in 40–60% alcohol solution or 3–5% solution of copper sulfate.

A hacksaw for disinfection can simply be wiped with a rag soaked in a disinfectant liquid. For pruning shears, extra attention is paid to the screw and fastenings.

All damaged shoots must be regularly removed and the bush sprayed with fungicides to prevent powdery mildew and other diseases from developing

After pruning the affected parts, honeysuckle is sprayed 2-3 times per season with any systemic fungicide as a preventive measure. This can be done without fear, since the chemicals will under no circumstances get into the future harvest.

The exception is the defeat of young shoots by aphids. Cutting out branches and tops will not help here, but will only weaken the bush. If aphid colonies are detected, treatments must be carried out strictly once every 10 days, alternating the active ingredients of the drugs. Of the systemic poisons, imidacloprid (drugs Colorado, Commander, Tabu, Tanrek and many others) and thiametaxam (Aktara) are allowed in private households.

Feeding

Any plant needs feeding after harvesting. And honeysuckle is doubly so, since simultaneously with the ripening of the berries, the first wave of shoot growth occurs. All this requires a colossal amount of water and minerals. Moreover, immediately after ripening and harvesting the fruits, the second wave of honeysuckle growth begins.

After harvesting, the bushes are fed first with nitrogen fertilizers, and after two weeks - with complex fertilizers. In this case, there is no need to be afraid of nitrogen; honeysuckle still has a whole summer ahead of it to absorb it and allow the shoots to ripen before wintering.

To save fertilizer and ensure good absorption, it is better to use foliar feeding. To do this, honeysuckle bushes are sprayed in the evening with a 1% solution of ammonium nitrate (100 g per 10 l of water) or a 0.5% solution of urea (50 g per 10 l of water). After 3 days, the procedure is repeated.

Complex fertilizer is less soluble in water and absorbed by the leaf. Therefore you need to use either liquid form(according to the instructions for the drug), or embed it in the soil at the rate of 20 g per 1 sq. m. Complex feeding is repeated every 3–4 weeks and is stopped approximately half a month before leaf fall, when the first yellow leaves appear.

When applying fertilizers, be careful - honeysuckle has a superficial root system that is difficult to tolerate damage.

Watering and mulching

Honeysuckle is a plant of the lower tier of the forest and is accustomed to high soil moisture. It has superficial roots, so drying out of the soil immediately affects the harvest and general condition.

Paper is an excellent mulch that prevents weeds from growing

The ground under the bushes must be covered with mulch and renewed throughout the season. This can be dry grass (necessarily without seeds, they attract rodents), grass cuttings, pine litter (deoxidized with ash or lime), rotted sawdust, bark, peat, coconut substrate, etc.

Not allowed to use fresh manure- it attracts pests.

They make sides or a ditch (shallow trench) around the plant. Be sure to do it outside the crown so as not to damage the roots. If there is no rain, honeysuckle is watered at least once a week, 5–10 liters per plant, depending on age. After watering, adjust the mulch layer and, if necessary, remove weeds from it.

Trimming

Honeysuckle wakes up very early, its buds tolerate return frosts well. So it's better to trim late autumn after leaf fall or even during it. For the first 4–5 years, honeysuckle grows slowly and does not need thinning. In the 5th year, old branches begin to be removed, as they greatly thicken the bush and produce almost no harvest. If a branch has more than 4 orders of branching, feel free to cut it out. Branches that rub against each other and strongly drooping branches are also removed. They try to make the cut close to the ground, without a stump.

Crossing, old and drooping branches inside the bush must be removed

Any cultivated plant requires attention and care, and honeysuckle is no exception. It is not necessary to spend a lot of time on it - a small inspection is enough when you pass by. Don’t be lazy - this will allow you to avoid many problems, and in early spring you will be rewarded with full-bodied, sweet and so healthy berries.

Honeysuckle is an unpretentious winter-hardy crop. Its fruits are good both fresh and for processing. In addition, this is an early berry in gardens, so it is advisable to have at least a few honeysuckle bushes in each plot.

Features of planting honeysuckle

Planting honeysuckle is similar to planting gooseberries. It is planted in autumn and spring. Autumn planting ensures almost 100% survival rate. In the spring, a delay in planting can lead to buds blooming on plants that have not yet been planted, and, therefore, poor survival rate.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account that honeysuckle grows in one place for 20-30 years. Honeysuckle is placed in well-lit areas. It can grow on any soil, but fertile soils with a high humus content are best suited to it.

To make planting and care as easy as possible, honeysuckle should be planted in soil cleared of perennial weeds:

• sow thistle;
• wheatgrass;
• birch trees

The easiest way to do this is to use the herbicide Roundup.

Why is it important to clear the soil of weeds before planting? Honeysuckle plants grow extremely slowly in the first years. At this time, weeds can actively take over the free area, which can ultimately drown out the miniature bushes.

Seedlings are planted according to a pattern of 2.5 by 0.7 m. Density in the row (0.7 m) and wide row spacing (2.5 m) contribute to more intense fruiting of each bush than if the plants were planted far from each other and grew in the open. In addition, to successfully set berries, honeysuckle needs cross-pollination, so planting in a tape for this crop is preferable to tapeworm.

You cannot plant honeysuckle of only one variety - there will be no berries. There should be several varieties on the site.

Two-year-old seedlings are used for planting. According to standards, a two-year-old honeysuckle seedling has 2-3 branches of the above-ground part, the length of the stem is 25-40 cm. The length of the roots is 15-20 cm, the root system has three to four branches.

There is nothing complicated about planting:

1. They dig a planting hole 50 by 50 centimeters, add half a bucket of humus and half a kilogram of superphosphate to the bottom.
2. Fertilizers are mixed with the soil at the bottom of the hole.
3. The seedling is placed vertically at the bottom of the hole, the roots are straightened and covered with earth.
4. The neck of the seedling should be slightly below the soil level. The plant is immediately watered and the hole is mulched with humus.

Honeysuckle seedlings are not pruned after planting.

Growing honeysuckle

Post-planting care consists of watering and weeding. The berry responds very well to watering and mulching. These simple agricultural techniques can ensure the successful cultivation of edible honeysuckle, active growth shoots and rapid entry into fruiting.

The bushes bear fruit in the third year. A month after flowering, the berries begin to ripen, but in cold weather it is delayed. Since the crop bears fruit only on the current year's growth, the harvest is located on the periphery of the bush, which is convenient for harvesting.

Honeysuckle ripens two weeks faster than strawberries. Its purple berries, covered with a bluish coating, have different shades of taste and different shapes. Many varieties are slightly bitter, some have a strawberry aroma.

Cuttings take root within 3-4 weeks. A good rooting percentage for honeysuckle is considered to be 50% or more. A month after planting, the cuttings are dug up and planted in open ground or an unheated greenhouse - first to a school for growing, and after 2 years to a permanent place.

In addition to green cuttings, honeysuckle is propagated by lignified cuttings, layering, and shoots from a stump. For breeding purposes, seed propagation is used.

Even an inexperienced gardener should not fear that edible honeysuckle will be too tough for him. Planting and caring for this unpretentious culture much easier than for the same currants. The plant responds well to fertilizing and watering, responding with abundant flowering and increased yield.

In the spring, organic matter is added under the bushes - rotted manure or compost. From organic matter, annual growth increases, fruit buds are laid in much larger quantities.

Autumn care for honeysuckle involves scattering wood ash under the bushes and lightly digging up the soil. Can be used during the season foliar feeding complex fertilizer solution.

In humid weather, you don’t need to water, but in hot and dry weather, pour a bucket of water under each plant, then mulch the soil. Lack of moisture affects the taste of the fruit - bitterness appears in them, even if the variety is dessert. Also, the heat can cause the fruits to fall off.

Honeysuckle is pruned when the branches form weak growth, resulting in reduced yield. In an unfavorable climate for the crop, this can happen as early as 5 years of age, but with good agricultural technology, the bushes bear fruit well without any pruning until the age of 10.

Thumbwing. This is a caterpillar that eats the pulp of unripe berries, causing them to wrinkle and fall off. Any pyrethroid drug will help to cope with the pest.

Leaf-eating caterpillars. They feed on leaves, without causing much harm to the plant, but reducing its decorative value. These can be sawflies, moths, leaf rollers. They gnaw out the pulp of the plate, leaving the petiole and veins intact, or roll the leaves into dry balls entangled in cobwebs.

Caterpillars are not difficult to get rid of. They can be collected manually from time to time, and if the pests have spread en masse, the bushes can be treated with preparations against leaf-eating insects: Iskra, Inta-Virom, etc.

Honeysuckle leaves are damaged microscopic fungi. Various spots form on the bushes, the leaves fall off, and the plant becomes unable to form full-fledged fruit buds - the yield the next year drops sharply. When spots appear, the foliage is sprayed with copper-containing preparations, and for prevention, the bushes can be thinned out so that they are well ventilated.

Viruses. Viral diseases appear as a “mosaic” on the leaves. When spotting appears, it is better to immediately dig up the bush and burn it, since viral plant diseases cannot be treated.

As is the case with other crops, honeysuckle diseases and pests will not be a problem if the necessary conditions are followed. agrotechnical measures And making the right choice landing places.

The article will tell you in detail about the intricacies of growing edible varieties of honeysuckle, its pests and diseases.

Edible honeysuckle is a crop with large sour-sweet and sweet (sometimes with a slight bitterness) dark berries of blue color. Honeysuckle blooms beautifully and, with proper care, always bears fruit abundantly. First of all, you need to choose the right plot of land and choose “healthy” seedlings for planting.

Early varieties:

Name	View	Fruit	Features of the variety
Blue bird	Bush	Berries (up to 2 cm)	An unpretentious plant that tolerates cold winters well and sheds little. Self-fertile (requires cross-pollination).
Leningrad giant	Bush	Large berries (more than 2 cm)	It tolerates cold well and is resistant to diseases and pests. Requires cross pollination.
Moraine	Bush	Large berries	Winter-hardy, bears fruit well, has delicious sweet and sour berries. Self-pollinates.

“Average” varieties in terms of ripeness:

Name	View	Fruit	Features of the variety
Bakchar giant	Bush	Large berries (up to 4-5 cm)	Soft and tasty fruits ripen at the end of June. The shrub bears fruit 2 years after planting (less often 3). In order for the Bakchar giant to bear fruit well, self-pollinating varieties of honeysuckle should be planted next to it.
Amphora	Bush	Large berries (more than 2 cm) jug-shaped	The fruits have a thick skin and taste like lingonberries. The variety is self-sterile, but productive (if self-pollinating varieties are planted nearby).
Highlight	Bush	Large elongated berries (up to 2.5-3 cm)	Sweet berries do not fall when ripe. The shrub tolerates winter well.
Azure	Bush (up to 1.5 meters)	(about 2 cm)	The berries ripen without falling off. Loves sunny color. Can bloom again warm autumn because of which it will not bear fruit next year.

Late varieties:

What kind of soil does edible honeysuckle like?

• The culture does not like “acidic” soil.
• Does not take root in “heavy”, dry soils and wetlands.
• The ideal soil is loamy, with organic fertilizers.
• Soil that is too wet will cause the roots to rot.
• Try to avoid areas with passing groundwater.
• IN hot weather the soil should be moistened (not allowed to dry out).

Priming

How to properly plant edible honeysuckle seedlings - the obligatory proximity of two bushes, in spring and autumn: step-by-step instructions

IMPORTANT: You need to know that honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated crop. Therefore, several varieties should be planted in one area at once. This will allow the crop not only to bloom profusely, but also to bear fruit.

Selection of seedlings:

• Before purchasing seedlings, ask the seller about the type of crop, its fruits and yield.
• The best “age” for a seedling is no more than 2-3 years (such a seedling will bear fruit after 2 or 3 years).
• Inspect the condition of the seedling (leaves, roots, stem: everything should be without damage).
• The branches of the seedling must be flexible
• The bush should have large buds and a well-developed root system.
• You cannot buy too short and long seedlings (short ones have a weak root system, and long ones may take root poorly).

IMPORTANT: Purchase several varieties of this crop at the same time, as some species are self-sterile and require cross-pollination from other crops.

Landing:

• To plant in the ground, you should transfer the seedling clump into the soil
• The transplant should be done when the buds have not yet bloomed.
• You need to plant the shrub in an area where there is plenty of sunlight throughout the day.
• The best spring time for planting is April (end of the month).
• The best autumn time for planting - September (mid-month).

Preparation for landing:

• Prepare the area
• The distance between seedlings should be about 1.5 meters.
• Make a hole for planting
• The hole should be about 40 cm deep
• Add compost to the hole (2 buckets per hole)
• You should also add 3 tbsp. superphosphate into each hole.
• Pour in 1 liter of ash
• Lower the seedling and cover it with loose soil
• After planting, moisten the hole well and evenly
• Place mulch (peat or humus) on the soil of the seedling

IMPORTANT: When planting, try to alternate varieties of honeysuckle (those that pollinate on their own and those that do not pollinate on their own at all).

When does edible honeysuckle begin to bear fruit, in what year, when does it ripen?

Honeysuckle is a bush with a bountiful harvest. To do this, you should care for the crop, observing all the rules for planting, watering, choosing soil and covering the honeysuckle with mulch for the winter. The young seedling will begin to bear fruit after 2 or 3 years of planting in the ground.

IMPORTANT: Honeysuckle is harvested quite early. The first ripe berries can be seen already in the second part of June. Fruiting continues for 3-4 weeks.

How to care for edible honeysuckle after picking the berries?

If you are faced with a situation such as a small honeysuckle harvest. To avoid this, you should care for the bush not only during the flowering period, but also after picking the fruits. The main manipulations with the crop should be carried out in the fall (when the honeysuckle is “dormant”).

Watering and pruning honeysuckle:

• Moisten the soil regularly
• Trim the bush
• Pruning will help the shrub produce a good harvest.
• Remove dry branches

IMPORTANT: Pruning is done only after the foliage has completely fallen off in the fall.

Feeding:

• Add organic matter every 3 years
• After watering and fertilizing, loosen the soil every time
• Carefully remove weeds from around
• Mulch in the fall

Cultivation care

Feeding honeysuckle with edible food in the spring, during flowering and fruiting, and in the fall and winter with mineral fertilizers and folk remedies: diagram

Feeding honeysuckle in spring:

• The bush should be fed only from the time it turns 3 years old.
• Feed honeysuckle in spring
• Pour 1 bucket of organic fertilizer under each bush.
• Feed honeysuckle in early spring
• At the end of summer, place a 10-liter jar of ash under the bush

IMPORTANT: You can also do nitrogen fertilizing; it is done in early spring, when the snow has just melted (i.e. at the beginning of the growing season). Making fertilizer is simple: dilute 1 tbsp. urea in a bucket of water. Nitrogen fertilizer will allow the plant to bear fruit abundantly (up to 5-6 kg of berries from one bush).

You can feed honeysuckle during flowering, fruiting, and after harvesting:

• It is good to feed the plant with “slurry” (ratio 1:6).
• You can also dilute 7 grams of potassium sulfate and nitrophoska (14-15 grams) in a bucket of water.
• Be careful, young shrubs only need 3 liters of water (adults from 10 to 12 liters).

How to dig up branches of edible honeysuckle and root them with cuttings?

For planting, cuttings should be prepared when they have already begun to become woody. Be careful, the tops of the branches should be grassy and the berries are about to ripen. This feature will allow the cuttings to take root well.

IMPORTANT: It is best to take the petiole from the top of the branch; the flower buds must be removed. A cutting needs 2-3 buds and 1-3 internodes (the cut should be made obliquely 1 cm above the node).

Before you start propagating from cuttings, you should know that not all cuttings take root. You can speed up root formation on a cutting by first scratching it a little and treating it with a special “stimulating” solution.

Honeysuckle cuttings should be carried out in a greenhouse or nursery for greater efficiency. The soil with planted cuttings should be sprinkled with a mixture of peat and sand. The deepening should be made no more than 2 cm. The cuttings are covered with polyethylene on supports (greenhouse). Water the cuttings generously, avoiding drying out. After the greenhouse, the cuttings should be planted in the ground. To do this, prepare a place on the site in advance. Protect the seedlings from wind and draft.

Edible honeysuckle - pruning in autumn: how to prune correctly?

Pruning will provide the shrub with stable growth and a beautiful crown; in addition, the yield of regularly pruned bushes is always high.

When pruning a plant, try to adhere to clear recommendations:

• Pruning should be done after harvest and leaves fall in the fall.
• When pruning, you should remove all dry and damaged branches.
• High-quality pruning of “adult” shrubs should be carried out once every 3 years.
• Pruning young shrubs as needed (if there are a lot of dry and broken branches on it).
• Branches are cut slightly above the base
• The tops of edible honeysuckle cannot be cut off (buds and fruits form on them). Only dry skeletal branches can be removed.
• When pruning, do not touch young branches
• Remove dry bush branches that lie on the soil
• Thin out inner part crowns

Video: “Pruning honeysuckle”

Is it necessary to cover edible honeysuckle for the winter?

Honeysuckle is a frost-resistant crop (even down to -50 degrees), but still some varieties are whimsical and do not have such endurance. If your winters are cold (-40, -50 degrees), you can insulate your shrubs to protect them from frosty weather.

IMPORTANT: Greater coverage is required for decorative varieties honeysuckle, not for edible.

How to make a shelter:

• Remove supports from branches
• Bend the branches to the ground, attach them with wire or a stapler (special gardening device).
• It’s good to lay the branches on the peat
• Cover the branches with spruce branches

IMPORTANT: Honeysuckle bark can be an attractive food in winter time for rodents and birds. Therefore, if there is such a need, cover the bush with special garden nets or synthetic bags.

Edible honeysuckle - pests and diseases: treatment and treatment

The plant may suffer from:

• Insects
• Viruses
• Gribkov

Honeysuckle diseases:

Name of the disease	Cause of the disease	How to recognize	Processing and treatment
Ramulariasis	Ramularia fungus	Drying of the plant, brown and brown spots on the leaves	Removing the affected parts of the bush (burning). Shrub processing copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture
Cercospora	Fungus "Cercospora libicola"	Drying of the plant, appearance of dark green and brown spots on foliage with a dark border around the edge	Removal of foliage and affected parts of the bush (burning), thinning, mineral “feeding”, treatment with Bordeaux mixture (you can also use cuprozan and fungicide), but only after the harvest season
Tuberculariosis	Fungi – causative agents of tuberculiosis	Darkening, wilting and drying of foliage, red-brown tubercles on shoots	Removing and burning all damaged parts of the bush, treating with Bordeaux mixture in early spring
Powdery mildew	Mushrooms	Provoke the appearance white plaque on leaves and shoots, darkening and falling leaves	Removal of damaged parts of honeysuckle and treatment with sulfur-containing preparations
Blackening of foliage	Mushrooms	Darkening of the foliage and drying out of the shoots, the appearance of a black coating on the foliage and even berries.	Removing damaged parts and spraying with aga-peak or Bordeaux mixture
Leaf mottling	Improper care, nutritional deficiencies	The appearance of whitish spots and stripes on the leaves	Removing damaged leaves, feeding the plant
Rezucha mosaic virus	Virus	Uncontrolled growth of shoots, foliage does not develop and withers, the plant dies	Destruction of the affected bush
Rose leaf roller	Pest: Hairy brown butterfly	Caterpillars eat foliage, the plant may be covered with cobwebs
Honeysuckle fingerwing	Pest: Brown butterfly caterpillars	They eat leaves and seeds of berries, reducing the yield of the bush	Treatment with chemical insecticides
Gooseberry moth	Pest: caterpillars of large variegated butterfly	Eating foliage, the plant weakens, fruiting fades.	Treatment with chemical insecticides

How to get rid of aphids on edible honeysuckle: what to spray with?

Aphid – frequent pest honeysuckle It often happens that a shrub affected by aphids gets sick several times during the season. The insect, in turn, infects the plant en masse with its several generations. Because of aphids, the bush weakens, because aphids feed and suck out all the juice from the young shoots of honeysuckle and leaves.

IMPORTANT: The most effective remedy against aphids, in addition to special chemical sprays designed for insects, is infusion of tobacco dust. You need to add a solution of laundry soap to it (a piece of 100 per 10-liter bucket). This product must cover the plant completely and on all sides (it is important to spray in dry weather).

Important and useful 10 secrets for successful cultivation honeysuckle:

1. Choose the right variety (focus on the characteristics of the variety and your land plot).
2. Cross-pollinate honeysuckle (plant several varieties at once for a harvest).
3. Attract pollinating insects (for example, bees and bumblebees - they will significantly increase the fertility of shrubs).
4. Combine varieties (for bush fertility)
5. Properly organize the honeysuckle planting site (observe all soil requirements).
6. Do not allow the honeysuckle crown to be very dense (reduces plant fertility).
7. Prepare the holes correctly and plant the plant (with the whole complex of fertilizers).
8. Water the plant generously during fruiting period
9. Mulch the soil after the harvest season (for the winter)
10. Feed the plant well (organic and nitrogen fertilizers).

Video: “Honeysuckle. Subtleties of cultivation"