Caring for peppers in a greenhouse and open ground. What to choose: growing peppers in a greenhouse or in beds? Planting in open ground

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​In mid-May, peppers are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, and in early June in open ground. One of the problems that a gardener may encounter is overgrowth. To avoid this, when picking seedlings, you should cut off the roots and do not overuse fertilizing, especially nitrogen. If the plants do overgrow, you should reduce watering and lower the ambient temperature.​

Features of growing pepper

​As the seedlings appear, they begin to be illuminated, initially this is done around the clock using lamps daylight. To ensure sufficient lighting for the seedlings, it is necessary to keep the windows clean and make screens for light reflection using foil. As it grows, the green mass is illuminated in the morning and evening, so that the total length of the day is 12-18 hours.​

• ​Soil with the addition of hydrogel. Adding hydrogel to the soil will help retain moisture in the soil longer. To do this, the balls, already swollen in water, are added directly to the soil. If you add dry granules, when they swell, they can displace the soil from the bowl.​
• ​Pepper is very picky about soil moisture and cannot tolerate even short-term drying out. Plants especially need moisture within 8-10 days after planting, during the flowering period of the first and second clusters, before loosening the soil, and after adding dry mineral fertilizers to the soil. Lack of moisture in the soil can lead to lignification of the stems, falling off of the ovary and leaves, as in eggplants. Pepper also reacts negatively to excess moisture in the soil.​
• ​the greenhouse must have enough light for the growth and development of plants;​
• ​Many people do not dare to plant bell peppers in their garden, because the growing conditions in open ground Not suitable for everyone due to the climate, and building a greenhouse on the site is either expensive or there is not enough space. But those who still want to enjoy the tasty and healthy fruits of pepper need to know about the features of caring for this crop.​

​It happens that you need to plant with the addition of mineral fertilizers to organic fertilizers, but the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise you may lose the fruit. You need to take a closer look at the plant, monitor its behavior and fertilize gradually. Innovations and new fertilizers should be added in small proportions.​

Fertilizer technology is as follows:

Peppers definitely need moist soil and air, care and watering are important, otherwise the atmosphere for growing pepper seedlings will be bad. Pepper is a moisture-loving plant that loves watering. After planting the seedlings, they need regular watering; you must monitor the humidity and prevent the seedlings from drying out.​

Leave for a day, drain the water, and leave the seeds in the sediment for ½ day.

• What's a garden without pepper? Pepper is an indispensable ingredient for borscht, adjika, salads and many other dishes. Caring for peppers in a greenhouse is very interesting and exciting process not only for experienced gardeners, but also for amateurs. The main thing is to stick simple rules care of the vegetable, and then a successful harvest is guaranteed.​
• ​The area for the pepper should:​

​You can feed the plants every 10 days after the first leaves appear using ammonium nitrate.​

• ​From proper preparation planting seedlings largely depends on its future quality and harvest, so the process requires close attention.​
• ​The amount of water per irrigation depends not only on the weather and soil, but also on the planting pattern and variety. It is advisable that the water be rainwater. If it is not available, water only with water that has settled in the tank and heated to a temperature not lower than 24-26°C. Therefore, water storage tanks should be installed in a well-lit place (preferably in a greenhouse), painted black...​

Regular watering is necessary, preferably before lunch;

Features of pepper seed germination

Caring for peppers grown outdoors in the garden is similar to the same measures that are used in caring for tomatoes. Pepper requires watering, weeding, timely fertilizing, loosening the soil, protection from pests and diseases. In addition to such simple manipulations, it will be necessary to remove the stepsons from the pepper bushes.​

If the leaves on the plant turn blue-green and then brown-red, then these are symptoms of phosphorus deficiency and watering will not help. Special fertilizing with phosphates can correct this situation.​

​Mineral fertilizers​

Pepper roots are small, especially if the seedlings have been picked, so watering is necessary large quantities. This is especially evident during the period when peppers bloom.

​The second scheme, which takes less time:​

​“Correct” pepper seedlings two weeks before planting. It remains to collect the first bud.

​Be well lit.​

Caring for peppers in a greenhouse or greenhouse

​Complex fertilizing with nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus fertilizers must be carried out before planting in open ground. Pepper seedlings are quite capricious and in order to grow strong seedlings, you need to put in a lot of effort and follow all the rules.​

In order to properly grow pepper seedlings, you need to pay attention to all growth factors:

​Pepper came to us from the shores of Mexico. Since this is a southern plant lovers summer cottages wondering how to properly grow pepper seedlings. It can be sweet or bitter, but the main points are the same for all varieties.​

​After watering, loosen the soil;​

During the planting procedure, the peppers are watered, then watering again must be done 4-5 days after planting. If the weather does not spoil with rain, then you regularly need to water the pepper plantings every 8-10 days. This watering regime will be maintained until the first fruits appear on the bushes. If not so many fruits are produced, then you can remove them from the bushes before the bulk of them.

​It is imperative to monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. If the temperature drops below +10 degrees, then phosphates will not work. The temperature should be above 20 degrees Celsius.​

Fertilizing peppers (features)

​Phosphorus - chemical element, which is necessary for the plant to produce good large pepper fruits. And this one the process is underway from planting a plant in a greenhouse until the moment when the fruit is ready for consumption.​

• Peppers in the greenhouse should be watered every other day, avoiding overwatering of both seedlings and adult peppers. Everything should be in moderation. One seedling in a greenhouse requires the following watering:
• ​2 tbsp. dilute spoons boiled water(1 l);​
• Sowing pepper seeds can be done directly into the ground, or you can first carry out the process of disinfecting them:
• ​Have loose soil.​

​There will be controversy among gardeners regarding picking young shoots. Opponents argue that after it the pepper slows down its growth, wasting energy on restoring the root system. Supporters say that after picking, plants better increase their vegetative mass and get more nutrients.​

​Soil.​

Preparation of pepper seedlings begins from February to mid-May. Pepper seeds lose their viability after three years of storage. Before planting, they must be sorted out and damaged and darkened ones removed.

1. ​create sufficient air humidity inside the greenhouse, otherwise, if its level is low, flowers will fall off, and, accordingly, there will be no harvest;​
2. After the mass ripening of the peppers, they take a short break in watering, which is resumed and made regular when flowers appear on the plants again.
3. If the pepper has stopped growing, the leaves fall off, dry out, and the fruits do not ripen, then the reason for this is a lack of potassium. Excessive watering will not save the plants, since the reason is not a lack of water, but a lack of necessary substances.​
4. ​Nitrogen is necessary for plant growth and for the formation of peppers.​

- per day 2 liters of water at normal temperature. If the greenhouse is cooler, then less, depending on how the plant behaves.​

Leave for 24 hours, drain the water and leave in the sediment for 3 hours.

​prepare a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of manganese per 100 ml of water);​

1. ​Be protected from drafts and wind.​
2. Pepper seedlings are picked when the first true leaves appear, about three weeks after the start of cultivation.
3. ​Humidity.​

In order to check whether the seed is suitable for planting, it must be placed in a 3% salt solution (30 grams per 1 liter).

​Feeding with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as microelements - manganese, iodine, boron and zinc, is important;

​You will need to fertilize peppers with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus (especially the last two) at least three times during the summer season.​

​For good development Pepper plants should be removed one lower bud at a time during the initial period.

​Potassium is needed by the fetus from the beginning to the end, that is, when it is already fully formed.​

​If straw is used as biofuel in a greenhouse, then watering the seedlings should be more intense. The water temperature varies depending on the time of year. It is warmer in spring, cooler in summer, the process of growing pepper seedlings is not the same everywhere.​

​For efficient cultivation pepper, in addition to ash, other schemes are used, but in all of them, after stimulation, the seeds must be squeezed out and planted wet in the ground.​

Features of ventilation in a greenhouse

​wrap the seeds of each type in gauze;​​Have a pH of no more than 6.​

​The seedling is carefully removed from well-moistened soil, holding it by the upper leaves, by one third, remove the main root and transfer it to separate containers with a volume of approximately 200 milliliters. There is no need for large dishes, since the roots can rot or build up excess green mass. Try to ensure that the root does not bend upward and is well spread out. The stem is buried almost to the first leaves, soil is added, compacted and watered.

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How to care for peppers in open ground and in a greenhouse

​Illumination.​

​Seeds that float to the surface after 7 minutes can be thrown away. The seeds that have settled to the bottom are removed, washed with water, dried and prepared for sowing.

​If pests are detected, it is necessary to as soon as possible destroy them so as not to harm all plantings.​

Features of caring for peppers in open ground

​It is recommended to fertilize for the first time approximately two weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground. The second is carried out during the period of mass fruit set, and the third feeding is carried out approximately 15-20 days after the second application of fertilizers.​

Watering peppers in open ground

If the leaves become stained, turn yellow, and the fruits also spoil, then this looks like a lack of magnesium. In this case, you can feed the plant with a solution of magnesium sulfate. The solution should have 10% magnesium and 30% potassium.​

​Calcium is needed for growth from the moment of planting until the completion of pepper ripening, that is, for the entire period of growing plants.​

Fertilizing peppers in open ground

​You can water at any time, in the morning, afternoon or evening, but the main thing is that the tops are dry by nightfall. To do this, you can ventilate the greenhouse, observing the necessary care.​

Germination is necessary in order to be sure of the number of seeds suitable for planting in the greenhouse. If the seeds germinate, they are more likely to produce fruit. If you plant seeds with a reserve, then it is not a fact that they will all germinate in the greenhouse or, on the contrary, they will germinate, but there will be much more seedlings than necessary, and you will have to throw them away.​

​dip the fabric with the seeds in the form of a bag into boiled water (45 degrees) for 2 hours;​

Before transplanting, the boxes with seedlings are thoroughly watered to carefully remove the plants. The seedlings are transferred from the pots along with the earthen lump. Pepper is sensitive to damage to the root system. The seedlings are carefully transferred to the holes, covered with soil and mulch, then the beds are watered abundantly.

Features of caring for peppers when grown in a greenhouse

​Feeding.​

Basic measures for caring for peppers in a greenhouse

​The seed, pre-pickled in potassium permanganate and treated with a growth stimulant, is soaked in warm water. The seeds are laid out on a cloth and placed in warm place, for example to the battery. It is important to ensure that the seeds are kept in a moist environment. Pepper seeds germinate in 1.5 to 2 weeks. You can put the soaked seeds in a thermos with water at a temperature of 40 degrees for 2 hours.​

• With both growing methods, peppers are affected by the same pests and diseases.
• ​It is better to feed peppers by spraying microfertilizers, so they are better absorbed by plants, the fruits grow evenly and even in shape.​
• ​Lack of calcium is manifested by rotting of the plant, but overdoing it with calcium means losing the harvest, since with an excess of calcium, chemical processes occur, alkaline reactions occur and the plant begins to lack elements such as iron, boron, nitrogen, potassium.​
• ​Growing peppers without any of the listed mineral fertilizers in a greenhouse will be difficult.​
• ​In order to grow the perfect pepper in a greenhouse, the following fertilizers are needed:​
• ​Growing seeds (growing seedlings) saves time. Without germination, planting in a greenhouse will look like a “blind” job. The seeds are placed in a pot and covered with film. There should be space between the film and the seeds, that is, the seeds do not need to be placed all the way to the top, but rather on the bottom. Then the pot is placed in a warm place, the temperature should be room temperature, after germination (about a day), the sprouted seeds should be placed in the refrigerator.​
• ​immerse in manganese solution for 20 minutes.​

Pests and diseases of pepper

​The distance between the rows is 50-79 centimeters, in the row between the peppers 40 cm. If the distance between the plants is less, they will feel uncomfortable and stretch out. The depth of embedding is approximately the same as it was before replanting.​

​Picking is also convenient because plants planted in separate cups are easy to move apart. Pepper does not like to touch its neighbor's foliage and begins to stretch upward, wasting growth energy.​

​For growing pepper seedlings, special boxes, peat pots, and plastic cups are used.​

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Caring for peppers in a greenhouse

​For proper cultivation pepper seedlings use the following types of substrates:​

Among the most common pests are spider mites and aphids. If they are found on plants, it is necessary to treat them as quickly as possible with special insecticides that fight harmful insects.​

​It is better to loosen the soil after rain to break up the earthen crust on the surface of the beds. Weeds are pulled out when they become clearly visible. In hot climates, peppers will require the construction of a shelter over the beds.​

​We must not forget about ventilating the greenhouse, as due to a sharp change in temperature, the plants can wither, rot and jeopardize the entire harvest.

​All pepper flowers are bisexual, and therefore they can easily self-pollinate themselves. But if insects get into the greenhouse through the window, cross-pollination can occur.

greeninfo.ru

Little tricks for growing pepper seedlings

​phosphorus;​

Preparing seeds and soil

Peculiarities of sowing pepper seeds

​After this, the seeds need to be washed with water so that the water becomes clean and there is no manganese left on the seeds. If the seeds turn red after disinfection, this does not mean that they have spoiled. They will still germinate as they should.​

​Sweet and bitter peppers are planted in different places to prevent cross-pollination.​

​Get powerful seedlings resistant to external factors environment allows hardening.​

​Craftsmen suggest planting seeds even in mayonnaise bags. The most important thing is to ensure good drainage in the container using sand and small pebbles, and don’t forget to punch holes in the bottom. This will avoid stagnation of water during watering and rotting of the roots.​

• ​Ready soils. Soil mixtures prepared specifically for peppers are the most reliable option for planting. They will help avoid damage from infections and pests.​
• ​With a lack of watering and humidity, some parts of the pepper fruits can sink in and darken, over time becoming covered with gray rot, which affects both their external attractiveness and taste qualities. It is unlikely that anyone would want to eat such unsightly and damaged fruits. This is why it is so important to provide the plants with regular and sufficient watering.​
• ​Even in a greenhouse it is better to grow peppers seedling method. Our latitudes are still not as warm as we would like, even in a greenhouse in early spring the soil has not yet warmed up enough for the plantings to die. In greenhouses with organized heating, seedlings can be planted as early as March, but in ordinary greenhouses - no earlier than the second half of April. At a minimum, the soil should be warmed to +18 degrees.​
• ​Due to the features climatic conditions, in different regions are needed various conditions for a greenhouse. At the beginning of summer, when the threat of frost has passed, it is worth opening the greenhouse early in the morning and ventilating it. Since the air temperature is low at night and high during the day, a sharp drop is harmful. Morning ventilation will slow down the process of sudden heating of the air. Before going to bed, the greenhouse also needs to be ventilated by letting in warm air.​
• ​Organic fertilizers:​

​potassium;​

Planting seeds and caring for seedlings

​Two weeks before planting in the ground, you need to start hardening the pepper seedlings.​

• ​Then it is necessary to carry out the process of stimulating seed growth. It is carried out in two ways.​
• If there is a possibility of night frosts, the transplanted peppers must be covered. To protect against exposure to bright sun rays for the first time after transplantation, covering materials are also used.​
• ​About a month before landing planting material begin to expose them to open sunlight, gradually increasing the exposure time.​
• The soil is shed with a warm, weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pepper seeds prepared for sowing are placed at a distance of 2 centimeters in small grooves, covered with 1 centimeter of soil and lightly compacted. To provide seedlings with maximum comfortable temperature(25-30 degrees) and humidity, the boxes with them are covered with film or a sheet of glass and placed in a warm place.​

​Soil prepared independently. Experienced summer residents prepare a substrate based on soil, humus and peat. If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, do not take the soil from the area where nightshades were grown the previous year and water it thoroughly with a solution of potassium permanganate.​

​To receive good harvest For peppers, temperature is important throughout the growing period. As you know, at air temperatures above 30-32 degrees, pepper flowers are not pollinated and fall off. But pepper fruits do not set even at average daytime temperatures below 15-16°C.​

​The soil for peppers must be selected carefully: it must be fertile, rich in humus, and loose. It will be good to add compost and humus to it, and dig up the beds well. Pepper grows very well in soils where cucumbers, beans, and zucchini grew before.

​If you follow all the planting rules, then you should not be afraid of growing peppers. With proper care, you can grow sweet peppers in a greenhouse, as well as any other variety that will be tasty, large and beautiful. The saying is relevant: the devil is not as scary as he is painted. For pepper, like for any other vegetable, you need correct landing, care, watering, temperature regime, knowledge of how to plant peppers correctly, when to harvest, as well as other living conditions.​

​Cow dung. The fertilizer is prepared as follows: manure is diluted with water 3:1. Place in a greenhouse for 3 days to infuse. Then it is diluted with water, for 1 liter of liquid 9 liters of water. This makes a bucket (10 l). After a 10-day life in the greenhouse, a liter of fertilizer is poured onto each bush to feed it.​

In order for the seeds to take root in the greenhouse and in the garden in the future, they need proper care; the soil must be the same or at least similar everywhere. Therefore, it is necessary to fertilize both the land in which the seeds are planted and the land in which the seedlings are planted.​

​Bad predecessors for peppers: potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and eggplant.​

The main troubles when growing peppers await summer residents at the stage of growing seedlings. After transfer to open ground, basic care comes down to timely watering, protection from pests and subsequent harvesting.​

Picking and hardening

To do this, the boxes are taken out onto the balcony or a window is opened. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not fall under drafts that affect them. negative impact and did not experience a lack of moisture. The described actions are not mandatory, but their use allows you to grow good seedlings and reap a bountiful harvest.​

​When good conditions The first shoots will appear within 10 days. When they appear, the boxes are moved to the light and the covering material is lifted to avoid the accumulation of condensation. The glass is removed when the bulk of the seedlings have leveled off and the first pairs of leaves begin to appear. If after two weeks not a single seedling has appeared, then the seedlings have failed.​

​Coconut substrate. Good for growing peppers

Therefore, in hot sunny weather, the greenhouse must be ventilated, while avoiding drafts. When the air temperature rises above 30-32°C, plants must be protected from direct sunlight. To do this, most often the glass roof is sprayed with a chalk solution or shaded with light wooden boards. And in film greenhouses, the film is lifted up from the sides, twisting it onto the spools.​

Pepper seedlings will appear in 7-12 days if the temperature under the film is 24-26°C or higher. If it stays below these values, then seedlings will appear later.

Pepper seeds will not germinate at all if the room temperature is below 20°C; the optimal temperature is 25°C. If the seeds have not sprouted from the ground after a certain period of time, they will have to be thrown away. The control period for pepper is 12-13 days.

Every three days you need to a short time open the plantings slightly for ventilation. With the emergence of seedlings, the seedling boxes must be immediately moved to a lighted place where the temperature is slightly lowered, and the film must be removed. Such a place could be a window sill. Since the pepper does not stretch, a temperature of 20-22°C will be optimal for it. Seedlings need to be ventilated regularly, but avoid drafts.

Pepper seedlings that sprouted in February need to be additionally illuminated from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. During other hours, it is advisable to cover young seedlings up to 30 days of age with light-proof material. This technique helps to increase its resistance to low temperatures. In addition, the seedlings will enter the fruiting phase earlier.

If you sow seeds closer to mid-March, you will have to artificially illuminate the grown seedlings for a whole month from the moment the first shoots appear until they are planted in pots. During the first three days after the emergence of seedlings, it is better to illuminate them around the clock, and then you should switch to a regime of 16-18 hours a day, in the morning and in the evening. Conventional incandescent electric lamps are hung at a distance of 60 cm or more from the sprouts to avoid burns. For illumination, it is best to take economical (fluorescent or energy-saving) fluorescent lamps; they illuminate the seedlings well, but do not overheat the seedlings, so they can be placed close to the plants. Fluorescent lamps (40 or 80 W) should be hung horizontally, so that they are located approximately 8-9 cm above the plants. On a cloudy day, the lamps are turned on from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. On a clear day, use depending on the light conditions in the room.

It is advisable to keep the seedlings in a bright window: pepper is a light-loving plant, and it will develop worse in the shade. For better lighting, you can use mirrors or foil; You should also wash the windows as often as possible, then the plants will be better lit.

This light and temperature regime is maintained for 6-7 days so that the seedlings produce strong roots. Then the temperature is gradually increased: during the day in sunny weather- up to 23-25°C, on cloudy days - up to 19-22°C, at night - up to 16-17°C.

It is important to turn the boxes with seedlings every 2-3 days, first one side or the other, towards the window frame. Then the illumination of the seedlings will be uniform.

⇒ The root system of pepper is located superficially, so it needs frequent and abundant watering. You need to water the plant especially often during flowering: when the soil and air are dry, the flowers and ovaries may fall off.

At first, there is no need to water the seedlings; just lightly sprinkle the dried soil. Irrigation of pepper is carried out once every 3-4 days, only in the morning. For irrigation, use warm, settled water. Watering seedlings with magnetized water is very effective. To do this, water for irrigation must be passed three times through magnetic nozzles, which can be bought in the store.

Pepper seedlings can grow in a box until they have two true leaves. This usually occurs at the age of seedlings 30-35 days. During this time, the seedlings should be watered moderately, no more than once a week. Excessive moisture can cause plants to suffer from blackleg. For irrigation, use only warm, settled water with a temperature of 26-28°C.

Picking pepper seedlings

Pepper seedlings are ready for picking, that is, transplanting from a small container to a large one, as soon as they have 2-3 true leaves. At this age, seedlings take root more easily. When picking, each pepper plant can be transplanted into an individual box or container.

Before picking, the seedlings need to be fed once with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and be sure to water them 2-3 hours before picking. When transplanting dry seedlings, the soil will crumble from the roots, which is very harmful.

Seedlings can be planted in any suitable container - hollow peat pots or plastic cups of any size. The optimal size of pots is 10 x 10 cm.

The selected container is filled with the same soil mixture that was used for sowing, then watered with a solution of the nutrient mixture of your choice:

1 tsp wood ash or potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water;

1 tbsp. l. liquid fertilizer"Effecton", or "Agricola Forward", or sodium humate per 10 liters of water.

If after watering the soil has noticeably dropped, then you need to add more soil mixture, make a depression in the middle of the pot and plant the plant to be planted to the cotyledons, i.e. to the two lowest leaves. There should be no bare stem between the soil surface and these leaves. After 3 weeks, the picked plants need to be fed again.

By the way, many gardeners believe that pepper seedlings do not need to be planted; they can grow before being planted in the ground where they were first planted.

Pepper does not tolerate picking very well due to the fact that its roots are located close to the soil surface. They are weak and easily break off, so it is advisable to grow pepper seedlings without picking. It is better to immediately plant it in individual pots. Since pepper roots grow slowly, you can use pots 8 cm in diameter.

Caring for pickled pepper seedlings

After diving, it is preferable to place seedlings in pots on the windowsill, but window glass It is better to cover it with paper for 1-2 days, which will provide moderate lighting.

The entire complex of caring for pickled seedlings consists of watering, fertilizing, hardening and maintaining the correct temperature regime.

At this time, the plants need regular watering: once every 5-6 days they need to be moistened so that the entire soil mixture in the pot is well moistened, but the water does not stagnate. To prevent water stagnation, there should be holes in the bottom of the pot. If pepper seedlings are accidentally overwatered, growth may stop. The plants are usually watered for the first time after picking six days later, using settled water at a temperature of 25°C.

For better rooting of plants after picking, you need to provide them with moderately warm air for 3-4 days: the temperature is 20-22°C during the day and not lower than 14°C at night. In the following days, you need to maintain a daytime temperature of 23-25°C during the day and not lower than 18-20°C at night.

Feeding pepper seedlings

When growing pepper seedlings, you need to combine watering with fertilizing. As a light feeding you can use this accessible remedy, like stale tea leaves (black tea). To do this, you need to pour 1 glass of this tea leaves into 3 liters. hot water, leave for 5-6 days, then strain the infusion and water the seedlings with it. You can also prepare fertilizer from eggshells: pour crushed shells from 10 eggs hot water and leave also for 5-6 days; During infusion, you need to stir the product regularly, then strain and water the plants. Feeding pepper seedlings with nettle infusion in a ratio of 1:10 gives excellent results.

Since peppers have a great need for potassium-phosphorus nutrition, the seedlings can be watered with water and ash infusion every other time. To prepare it you need 1 tbsp. l. wood ash pour 1 liter of hot water, leave for 24 hours and strain. When the seedlings reach two weeks of age, you can feed them with a solution of complex fertilizer.

It is better to apply mineral fertilizers under pepper seedlings. It is best to fertilize seedlings for the first time when they have 1-2 true leaves. To feed, dilute 0.5 g of ammonium nitrate, 3 g of superphosphate and 1 g of potassium fertilizers in 1 liter of water. After 14 days, carry out a second feeding, doubling the dose of mineral fertilizers.

The last feeding is carried out 2 days before planting the seedlings on permanent place. At the same time, the dose of potassium fertilizers should be increased to 8 g per 1 liter of water.

In cases where seedlings develop slowly and the color of the leaves is light green, the plants need fertilizing that is more effective than nutrient solutions from improvised means. Then you can apply a fertilizer solution made from the following components: 1 tbsp. fertilizer "Leaf" in combination with 2 tbsp. l. Dilute Effekton fertilizers in 10 liters of water.

If beautiful green pepper plants have poor root development, it means they need feeding. In this case, 1 tbsp can be diluted in 10 liters of water. superphosphate or 1 tsp. potassium sulfate. You can prepare a fertilizer from a mixture of Agricola Forward and Effekton-U fertilizers: take 1 tbsp. each product and dilute in 10 liters of water. All liquid fertilizers should be included in the general water norm when watering seedlings so that there is no excess liquid.

❧ It is advisable to carry out all watering and fertilizing of pepper seedlings only in the morning. This routine will help prevent seedlings from getting blackleg disease. If you water the seedlings in the afternoon, the young plants will not have time to absorb moisture.

Pepper seedlings respond very well to wood ash: it can be poured 1-2 times into pots at the rate of 1 tsp. for 2-3 pots. But you need to add ash so that it does not get on the stems and leaves of plants.

Hardening off pepper seedlings

The temperature in the room where pepper seedlings are grown must be maintained at the following level: during the day - 25-27°C, at night - not lower than 11-13°C. Before planting seedlings in a permanent place, they should be hardened off.

Hardening off pepper seedlings should begin no later than 2-4 weeks before planting them in a permanent place in the ground - it all depends on local weather and climatic conditions. The hardening process is expressed in the gradual accustoming of seedlings to natural weather conditions, sunlight, relatively low temperatures (compared to room temperature) and fresh air. Hardening can only begin at above-zero temperatures, when the outside air has already warmed up to 15°C. When carrying out this procedure, it is important to carefully monitor weather conditions so that the seedlings do not fall under frost or a drop in temperature to 13°C, which is biological zero for pepper.

First you need to open a window in the room where the seedlings are located or window frame- depending on the air temperature outside.

As the air temperature outside the window rises, on clear days you can take the plants to the balcony, veranda, or even outside.

The residence time of the seedlings fresh air need to be gradually increased, starting from 20 minutes per day. According to experienced gardeners, hardening seedlings gives better results compared to hardening pepper seeds heated in warm water.

However, hardening in any form (at home or when taken outside) can only be carried out when there are no drafts in the room and there is no strong, gusty wind outside.

Wind and drafts are detrimental to young plants. A weak warm breeze will only benefit sufficiently grown seedlings.

Signs of good pepper seedlings

Good seedlings can be distinguished by many external signs which indicate the health of young plants. First of all, an indicator of healthy strong plants — large leaves rich green color. The total volume of the leaves should visually exceed the volume of the stem, and this difference should be significant.

The stem should be thick, not woody, and fit well into the circle. It should not have a bend in the area of ​​the root collar. A healthy plant always has a strong stem, consisting of compact internodes.

The leaves and stems should be free of spots, any plaque or deformation, as well as signs of starvation or excess individual elements nutrition.

When the plant is ready for planting, you can carefully remove it by turning the pot over and inspect it without harming the roots. In healthy seedlings, before planting in the soil, the roots branch well and have healthy white tips, and also entwine a lump of soil in the pot. If the plant has small and weak roots, the soil easily falls off from them, so you will have to wait before planting it in a permanent place.

At the time of planting seedlings, plants should have approximately 8-12 leaves and single buds. If you plan to get an early pepper harvest, then the seedlings should have 9-12 leaves and buds ready to open. If the pepper harvest is needed in the second half of summer, you can use young seedlings with 7-9 leaves.

Planting seedlings in open ground

IN normal conditions In the middle zone, peppers ripen normally only in a greenhouse or under a film in the open ground. Without the membrane, it can only reach maturity in very hot summers.

The greenhouse where the pepper is planted must be ventilated regularly, but remember that the plant does not tolerate drafts. The best greenhouse neighbor of pepper is the cucumber.

A clear sign that the pepper is ready for planting in a permanent place is the presence of 16-17 true leaves, or at least 10-15, and single buds. The optimal age of seedlings is 55-65 days. Seedlings at two months of age should be at least 20-30 cm tall.

If the deadline for planting in the ground is missed, the overgrown seedlings get sick for a long time. The leaves on it often turn yellow and even fall off, along with them the flowers and first ovaries may fall off.

If the seedlings ready for planting have bloomed, then it is better to remove the first flowers, otherwise not enough ovaries will form on the bush. It happens that plants transplanted into soil do not bloom at all. This phenomenon can be explained by the fact that, being in a cramped space in a pot and a small volume of soil, the seedling devoted all its strength to the formation of flowers and ovaries. When did the plant, transplanted into open ground, receive large area for nutrition, it directed all its forces to the formation of the underground part, i.e., roots. But there was a delay with the further formation of above-ground organs.

When to plant pepper seedlings in open ground

Peppers that are supposed to be grown in a greenhouse can be planted starting May 10. It is recommended to plant seedlings in open ground from June 1 to June 5. It is quite dangerous to start planting earlier than these dates; it would be wiser to wait until the last frost has passed. Usually this is the beginning of June. Many years of experience growing peppers shows that open ground is intended only for the southern regions of Russia, since the plant develops well at 27°C.

Pepper practically does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature, wind and direct sunlight - these are arguments against growing peppers in open ground. In addition, the required air humidity can only be maintained in a greenhouse.

However, if necessary, you can plant pepper seedlings after May 25, only with the obligatory covering of the plants with film - this is a compromise option. In hot weather, temporary film shelters must be opened slightly. But still, it is better to plant peppers even under film after frost.

Soil preparation

Sweet peppers are very demanding. It prefers light and rich soils. Therefore, the intended place for planting seedlings must be well fertilized in the fall with organic matter (compost, peat, humus) and a complex mineral fertilizer must be added. It is advisable to add 5-10 kg of organic matter per 1 m2. It is best if it is introduced under the predecessor of pepper. In the fall, during deep digging, 60 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are added to the same area. In the spring, when preparing the soil, add 40 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 to the top layer of soil.

If in the fall it is not possible to prepare the soil intended for planting peppers, in the spring you can dig it up and add a small amount of organic matter in the form of humus and superphosphate. However, before planting the pepper, the soil will need to be dug up again.

Pepper planting technique

The best time to plant sweet peppers is cool weather, preferably evening. To do this, you need to dig holes that are suitable in size, pour a little peat or compost into them, mixed in advance with the fertile layer of soil, and water them with settled warm water.

Immediately before planting, the seedlings need to be well watered so that when they are removed from the pots, the soil lump is preserved. Some gardeners water pepper seedlings with melt water at room temperature, which is specially frozen outside or in the freezer. When removing seedlings from boxes, do not shake off the soil so as not to damage the root system.

When planting pepper seedlings in a permanent place, the plant is not deeply buried - deep planting is not suitable for it. But at the same time, peppers do not tolerate shallow planting - their roots die off. Ideal option the peppers will be buried in the ground by half the stem, i.e. from the roots to the first true leaves.

Between plants of medium-sized peppers in a row, you need to maintain a gap of 20-30 cm - in rare plantings, peppers grow and develop poorly. Optimal distance There should be a distance of 50-60 cm between the beds. When planting peppers in a greenhouse, you need to immediately install pegs for garter, so as not to injure delicate plants later.

Experienced vegetable growers believe that to increase the yield when planting on plants, it is necessary to remove the central flower growing from the first branch.

❧ Pepper leaves and stems are fragile and brittle, so special care should be taken when planting seedlings, caring for plants and harvesting. Pepper flowers are located in the fork of the branches, one at a time or in a bouquet, and therefore they are not pruned or pruned.

Caring for planted seedlings

During the growth process, the roots of planted seedlings must receive a sufficient amount of air. Wide row spacing, which should be periodically loosened along with the beds, will help provide the roots with air. However, the roots of the pepper are located close enough to the surface of the earth, so you can loosen the soil to a depth of no more than 7 cm.

Peppers are plants that are very demanding of moisture. They prefer fairly frequent, but not too abundant watering. At any stage of plant growth, watering should be done only at the root and only warm water.

After watering, the soil surface should be mulched to ensure the desired level of moisture. Therefore, peat or straw, or any other mulching material that will not allow moisture to easily evaporate from the soil, can be poured around the pepper stem.

It is advisable to fertilize the planted seedlings once a week or every 10 days with complex and organic fertilizers. It is optimal to apply fertilizing along with watering. If there are few plants in the garden, you can add fertilizing to the planted pepper seedlings through spraying.

Growing peppers requires care and attention. But if you prepare a strong and healthy seedlings If you properly care for it, the result will be an ideal harvest of large and juicy vegetables.

Preparation of seed material

Bell pepper: cultivation and care in open ground

Proper care of peppers outdoors includes careful preparation. You will need tools and supplies for watering, weeding, fertilizing and frost protection.

Timing for planting peppers in open ground

To disembark you must wait warm weather so that the soil warms up.

• In the south of Russia and in middle lane- at the end of May or beginning of June.
• For northern regions this time comes by mid-June, when the threat of return frosts has passed.

Hardening off seedlings before planting

To grow peppers in open ground successfully, seedlings must be hardened off 14 days before planting.

• For several days, open the window slightly for 1-2 hours if the weather is warm.
• Having built a sun shield from plywood sheets, hardening is carried out on the balcony or veranda for a week.
• If the night air temperature is not lower than 14 degrees. Celsius, then it is no longer brought into the room.

Selecting a location and preparing the soil for growing peppers

Select the area where you plan to grow peppers. It should be protected from strong drafts and well lit. The bed must be pre-treated:

• In autumn, the soil is carefully dug up and loosened, after which complex potassium and phosphate fertilizers(50 grams per 1 sq.m.)
• In the spring, 40 g of ammonium nitrate is added to the top layer of soil for each square meter.
• Five days before planting seedlings, the soil is disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water).

If you use different varieties, it is better to grow peppers in open ground at a distance from each other, since the crop tends to cross-pollinate. You can differentiate between varieties by planting tall plants - corn, tomatoes or sunflowers.

Procedure for planting pepper seedlings in open ground

Pepper does not tolerate cold soil well, so it is better to raise the height of the beds by 20-50 cm.

• Pepper seedlings are watered to remove them from the containers by the roots; they are planted in the morning or evening, when the sun is not too active.
• Plant vertically according to a 40x40 cm pattern.
• The peppers are sprinkled with earth, the area around it is slightly compacted and watered well with warm water.
• The leaves of young plants break easily, so place a peg on each one and tie it up.
• To provide oxygen access, loosen the soil around the plant.
• Cover the ridge with film, stretching it over pre-installed arched rods. After rooting, remove the film.

Build protection from the cold for the peppers using available materials at hand by constructing a tent from roofing felt, boards or cardboard. The top can be covered with burlap or agrofibre.

Pinching peppers in open ground

For proper formation of the bush and good development of the fruits, pinching is carried out every 10 days. When the plant reaches a height of 25 cm, cut off its top. As a result, the stem will produce many shoots; they must be partially removed, leaving the top 5-6. They will serve to form the harvest. Pruning is carried out in hot, but not dry weather.

To attract insects to your site that will pollinate the pepper during flowering, spray it with a special sugar syrup. It is prepared like this: dissolve half a glass of sugar and 2 grams in a liter of hot water. boric acid.

Watering peppers in open ground

Growing bell peppers in open ground does not require abundant watering. The first time it is watered during planting, the second time after 5 days, then once a week. To water one plant, 1-1.5 liters is enough. But as you grow older, the norm can be doubled.

When the pepper begins to bloom, water it only with warm water (20-22 degrees Celsius). Watering is stopped 2 weeks before the vegetables are completely harvested. After each watering or rain, the soil must be loosened.

To reduce the number of waterings and better retain moisture at the roots of the plants, mulch the peppers with a 10-centimeter layer of rotted straw.

Fertilizing peppers in open ground

Caring for peppers after planting in the ground necessarily includes three feedings per season.

1. The first is carried out two weeks later. For good growth nitrogen fertilizers are needed. To do this, dilute a tablespoon of superphosphate and urea in a bucket of water. You can mix urea (1 teaspoon) in the same volume of water. Pour 1 liter of this mixture under each plant.
2. Next feeding produced during flowering. Since potassium is needed for fruit set, use wood ash. Feed again with urea, as with the first feeding.
3. The last time peppers are fed is when the first fruits appear. To do this, dilute potassium salt and superphosphate (2 teaspoons each) in 10 liters of water.

Observe the growth of the pepper, it may need additional feeding. It can be foliar, since the plant can receive the necessary substances not only through the roots, but also through the leaves.

Problems when growing peppers and their solutions

• If the leaves turn yellow, then they do not have enough nitrogen. To provide this substance, spray with a solution of urea in water in the ratio: 1 tablespoon per bucket of water.
• If the pepper loses its ovaries, then prepare a solution of boric acid: a teaspoon per bucket of water.
• If fruit formation is poor, feed with superphosphate or ash: a teaspoon per 5 liters of water.

Foliar feeding is carried out exclusively in the morning or evening time, otherwise the leaves may burn in the scorching sun. In this case, the weather should be calm. Fertilizing with yeast has a good effect on the development of peppers.

Recipe for yeast nutrition for peppers

For preparation you will need 100 grams of fresh yeast. They are soaked in 0.5 liters of water for a day. Before use, add 5 liters of water to the solution.

Fertilizer recipe for peppers using dry yeast

Dissolve one packet of dry yeast in a bucket of water, add 2 tablespoons of sugar, leave for 2 hours to activate the fermentation process. Dilute the infusion with water at the rate of 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water.

Apply this fertilizer only to sufficiently warm soil. It can be applied no more than twice per season. After feeding with yeast, be sure to add wood ash.

Protecting peppers from diseases and pests in open ground

• To protect peppers from the main pepper pests, spray them with wood ash three times during the season. This should be done early in the morning when there is still dew on the plant.
• To prevent damage by mole crickets, 1 hour before planting peppers, fill the holes with onion water (0.5 kg onion peel Infuse 10 liters of water for three days).
• If during the growing season you find aphid damage, treat with a solution of 1.5 liters of whey in a bucket of water. After spraying, dust with ash.

Harvest time for peppers in open ground

• The fruits are harvested when they have acquired the size and color appropriate for ripeness. Since these vegetables are fragile, it is better to cut them with the stalk.
• The first harvest appears by mid-August, then it is harvested every week until frost.

To prepare seeds for next year, select several large fruits. Do not remove them until the end of summer, allowing them to fully ripen. Cut and wrap in paper until completely dry. Cut and collect the seeds. Their varietal characteristics can persist for three years if cross-pollination does not occur.

Sweet pepper: growing and care in a greenhouse

Since pepper is a very heat-loving crop, its cultivation in open ground most often begins with seedlings. When sowing pepper seeds into the ground, they are carefully processed and well hardened. That is why many gardeners prefer growing bell peppers in a greenhouse, where they can create ideal conditions growth.

Glass, film greenhouses or hotbeds are used for planting seedlings or sowing seeds. It is also now widely practiced to grow peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Technology for planting bell peppers in a greenhouse

Peppers are planted in the greenhouse in early April. You can sow seeds, but for better yield use 2-month-old seedlings 20-25 cm high, which already have from 6 to 10 leaves.

• In the greenhouse, beds are prepared at a distance of half a meter from one another.
• Holes are made in them corresponding to the size of the container in which the seedlings grew.
• A solution of manure or chicken droppings is poured into the holes. To prepare it, half a liter of manure or a glass of droppings is dissolved in a bucket of warm water (about +50 C).
• 1 liter is poured into each well.
• Pepper seedlings are watered to remove them from the container by the roots.
• Then the peppers are planted in the prepared holes and tied to pegs.

Peppers in a greenhouse growing and caring

The main care for peppers in a greenhouse is to maintain optimal temperature conditions, water, regularly feed, weed and loosen.

• The greenhouse must be ventilated and shaded in hot weather.
• Water the pepper every 2-3 days, pour 1-2 liters of water under the root of each plant.
• Growing peppers in a greenhouse involves maintaining optimal temperature. During the day it should be at 20-27°C, at night - 15°C. After fruiting begins, it can be reduced by a couple of degrees.
• Bushes are earthed up when the soil is still moist. After the soil dries, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing.

Caring for peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse does not differ from the rules of care in a regular greenhouse.

How to properly feed peppers in a greenhouse

Growing peppers in a greenhouse is impossible without sufficient nutrients. For feeding, urea is used in a similar proportion. But it is better to use a solution of bird droppings in water in a ratio of 1 to 15. Water 1 liter of it for each sprout. Before feeding, pepper care includes adding wood ash.

• The first feeding is carried out two weeks after planting in the greenhouse.
• The second is when fruit sets.
• The third is before harvest.

The composition of fertilizers can be the same for each of the procedures if the plant does not show signs of a lack of any microelements.

Bottom line

Bell peppers, the cultivation and care of which we have examined, will delight you with an excellent harvest if agrotechnical rules are observed. Follow the recommendations, provide timely watering and fertilization and you will not have any problems with this crop.

Pepper is a rather demanding crop, and you can get a harvest only with proper care. Experienced gardeners achieve excellent results without problems, but beginners often have difficulties growing peppers. It often happens that the strong healthy bushes produce 2-3 fruits of not the best quality or the ovaries fall off for no apparent reason. But you really want to collect pepper in buckets, so that it is juicy, big, and aromatic! In fact, achieving a good harvest is not so difficult, you just need to carefully study a few important rules agricultural technology of this wonderful crop.

When planning to grow peppers in open ground, first of all you need to choose the right variety. The growing season of pepper is very long, and even in early varieties, the first fruits ripen 100 days after germination. Therefore, in order to get the harvest in time, you need to pay attention only to early and mid-season varieties. In addition, one should take into account climatic features your region. For example, peppers are successfully grown in the south of the country different terms ripening, since the conditions there are the most favorable, and in the northern and eastern regions top scores show mainly cold-resistant early-ripening varieties.

The shape and size of the fruit also matter. For stuffing and canning, it is worth choosing varieties with small cone-shaped fruits, for fresh use Large, thick-walled, cube-shaped fruits are more suitable.

If you are going to grow peppers for sale, take a closer look at hybrids Dutch selection: they are cold-resistant, ripen early and quickly, and are less often affected by diseases.

It is difficult for a novice gardener to understand the abundance of varieties, so below are the most popular and reliable:

Preparing the site

You should select and prepare a site for peppers in the fall. Well-prepared soil is a guarantee of normal growth and fruiting of plants next year. Ideal place– beds with south side from home or outbuildings, located in light shade in the afternoon. This arrangement provides protection from both wind and leaf burns in the July heat. Peppers should not be planted where tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops have grown in the previous three years. The best predecessors of pepper are legumes and pumpkin crops, cabbage, melons, green manure.

Preparing a bed for peppers

The soil for peppers should be neutral or slightly acidic. In beds with acidic soil, plants take a long time to take root after transplantation, develop poorly, and hardly bloom or bear fruit.

Advice! It is very easy to check acidity at home: you need to take a little earth and moisten it with ordinary table vinegar. If no reaction follows, the soil is acidic and needs liming, but if bubbles appear on the surface, this indicates neutral acidity.

So, if the soil in the selected area is acidic, when digging, add slaked lime(1 cup per square meter) or wood ash (1.5-3 kg). If the soil is neutral, you need to add rotted organic matter (from 5 to 10 kg per m2) and dig the beds to a depth of 20-25 cm. In the spring, an additional 40 g of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are added per meter of area, the soil is well loosened and leveled.

Growing seedlings

It is not advisable to sow pepper seeds in open ground; the plants will not have time to begin bearing fruit before the cold weather. That is why both sweet and spicy varieties Peppers are grown through seedlings. Mid-season and mid-late varieties are sown around the beginning of February, early varieties - in early March. Please note that overgrown seedlings take a very long time to adapt to open ground, especially if you plant already flowering plants.

Step 1. Seeds are immersed in warm water for 5-6 hours for swelling. Then they are laid out on a damp cloth, wrapped and left in a warm place for 2-3 days until the sprouts hatch.

Step 2. Mix 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 2 parts rotted organic matter, heated in the microwave or regular oven for disinfection. Then add a tablespoon of wood ash to 1 kg of the mixture and mix thoroughly.

Step 3. For sowing, take peat pots or disposable cups with a capacity of 0.5 liters and fill them with prepared soil. You can sow seeds in a common container, but as the seedlings grow, it will become cramped, and peppers do not like picking.

Step 4. The hatched seeds are placed one in each pot, lightly sprinkled with earth, and moistened through a spray bottle. Then the containers are covered with glass or film and placed in a warm place. The temperature must be maintained within 22-24 degrees.

Sprouts appear already 2-3 days after sowing. At this time, they need to be provided with at least 12 hours of lighting, so prepare phytolamps in advance. The film is removed from the pots so that high humidity does not destroy the tender sprouts. Water the pepper seedlings very sparingly, only when the substrate begins to dry out. Only warm and settled water is used; cold water slows down the development of seedlings.

If the air in the room is too dry, the seedlings should be sprayed in the morning (also with warm water). When ventilating the room, be sure to cover the seedlings from drafts and avoid sudden changes in temperature. A week after germination, it is recommended to reduce the night temperature to 15°C. Grown and strengthened seedlings should be hardened little by little. On warm days, when the temperature outside the window rises to 13°C, the pepper should be set to open air, providing protection from the wind. The first time, half an hour is enough, then the time spent in the air is increased daily. On cold days, seedlings are not tolerated, since plants can be damaged even at 10°C.

Landing in the ground

Before planting seedlings, the beds are weeded, loosened and leveled. The holes are made at a distance of 30 cm in the row, 60-70 cm are left between the rows. Peppers should be planted in the evening or in cloudy weather, since the heat of the day is additional stress for the plant. Approximately 5-6 hours before transplanting, the seedlings are watered generously so that root system adapted more easily to new conditions. Water for irrigation is also prepared in advance: collected in buckets or large capacity and place it in the sun to warm up.

Step 1. 2-3 liters of water are poured into each hole and allowed to soak a little.

Step 2. The seedlings are carefully removed from the containers so that the earthen lump does not disintegrate. If used peat pots, peppers are planted along with them.

Step 3. The plants are lowered into the hole a little deeper than they grew in the cups, sprinkled with earth on all sides, and compacted with hands.

Advice! Peppers cross-pollinate easily, so if you plan to collect seeds, plant different varieties as far apart as possible. Additionally, you can alternate them with tall crops, for example, corn, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke and others. Hot and sweet peppers also need to be planted maximum distance, otherwise all the fruits will have a pungent taste.

Caring for peppers in open ground

Watering and fertilizing

2 days after planting, the pepper is watered and the ground is sprinkled with fine straw, dry grass or sawdust. In the future, the plants need to be watered once a week until the ovaries form, after which watering is increased more often - once every 5 days. To avoid watering so often, you can increase the mulch layer to 10 cm.

Feed the plantings three times:

• For the first time, fertilizer is applied 10 days after planting. For this purpose, bird droppings are used, diluted in a ratio of 1:10, with the addition of 200 g of ash and 40 g of superphosphate per 10 liters of solution. The indicated volume is enough for about 10 bushes;
• the second time the pepper is fed at the beginning of fruiting with a solution of mullein in a ratio of 1:5 or diluted bird droppings (1:10);
• the third time fertilizer is applied during mass formation fruits when plants are most in need of nutrient replenishment.

By the appearance of the pepper it is easy to determine which substances it lacks. If the leaves dry out along the edges and then curl, this indicates a lack of potassium. A lack of nitrogen is expressed by leaves becoming dull and having a grayish tint. In addition, the leaves become small. But when there is an excess of nitrogen, the ovaries and flowers begin to fall off. The deep purple color of the back of the leaves indicates a lack of phosphorus; the marble pattern occurs with a lack of magnesium. The use of mineral fertilizers helps to make up for all this, but do not forget to strictly follow the dosage, otherwise all the excess will end up in the fruit.

If the autumn turns out to be warm, with the help of another feeding you can prolong the fruiting of early varieties. To do this, dilute 50 g of superphosphate, 15 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride in 10 liters of water.

Loosening

The soil between the rows must be regularly loosened to a depth of 10 cm. The formation of a soil crust slows down the development of pepper and causes oxygen starvation of the root system. It is best to carry out loosening the morning after watering, while the soil is still quite moist. If mulch was not used, loosening is carried out under the bushes itself, but very carefully, since the roots are located very close to the surface. During the period of budding and flowering, it is advisable to hill each plant to a height of 10-12 cm.

Bush formation

To obtain large ripened fruits, excess shoots (stepchildren) should be removed from the plant. All shoots located below the first branch are removed completely, since they only draw juices from the plant and interfere with fruiting. In addition, the crown should be thinned out so that each branch receives enough air and light. Too dense bushes form few ovaries, the fruits on them grow small and thin-walled.

On average, pruning is carried out once every two weeks, but if the summer is rainy, the stepsons will have to be removed more often - about once every 10 days. It is advisable to combine pruning with loosening the soil in order to disturb the plant less.

Pepper shoots are quite fragile, and any careless movement can damage the stems. To avoid this, it is recommended to tie tall varieties to supports.

Diseases and pests

This crop is susceptible to late blight, white rot and blossom end rot, tobacco mosaic and some other diseases. In the best way combating them is prevention and proper care. Compliance with the planting scheme, timely thinning and pruning, proper watering, removing diseased plants from the garden will help you keep your plantings healthy and get a full harvest.

Dusting bushes with wood ash is effective against pests. This should be done at least 5 times per season, preferably in the morning while the leaves are wet. From spider mite Spraying pepper with garlic infusion also helps aphids well. Slugs that don’t mind eating fresh leaves are collected using traps or repelled with salt, lime, mustard, and pepper powder scattered along the rows.

Video - Pepper: growing and caring in open ground

Video - Planting pepper seedlings

Video - Forming a pepper bush

Of all the types of pepper, Tyumen residents (as well as other Russians) most liked sweet pepper, which is also called Bulgarian (apparently because it was originally brought from there to our country).

This plant is distinguished by its many bright colors (pepper can be yellow, red, orange, green) and can decorate any dish. In addition, it is juicy, tasty, filled with many vitamins and nutrients.

Most gardeners have already planted peppers in greenhouses, so the remaining seedlings can be safely planted directly into the soil, advises a professor at the State Agrarian University of the Northern Trans-Urals Lyudmila Lyashcheva. - In order not to lose the beneficial properties of the crop during cultivation, but to increase it, adhere to the following rules.

Landing algorithm

Place the seedlings in the holes at the same depth at which the peppers grew in seedling box, under no circumstances exposing the roots or digging in the root collar.

Pepper is a heat-loving crop. He won't like cold soil, so pamper him: build one for his place of residence. raised beds, which it is advisable to raise 25-55 centimeters above the ground.

An interesting experience is growing pepper in straw bales (as they once did at the Prigorodny state farm).

Don’t forget: peppers are susceptible to cross-pollination, so if you like several varieties to grow on your site, try to place them as far as possible from each other. It’s good if you separate hedge varieties in the form of tall tomatoes, corn or sunflowers.

Pepper care

It includes regular watering, gartering, weeding and fertilizing. The first “feeding” must be carried out in the phase of 1-2 true leaves; for this, 0.5 g of ammonium nitrate, 1 g of potassium fertilizer and 3 g of superphosphate are mixed in a liter of water. The second feeding is two weeks after the first, and the dose of mineral fertilizers in the “recipe” must be doubled.

• Pepper contains much more vitamin C than, for example, lemon. It is also rich in vitamins P, A, and B vitamins. In addition to them, pepper contains quite a lot of minerals, zinc compounds, iron, phosphorus, and even iodine (so necessary for Siberians and northerners) is present in small quantities.

A Bulgarian friend will be very grateful if you pamper him with nettle infusion (for one part of nettle - 10 parts of water, let the infusion stand for a couple of days).

Before harvesting, it is advisable to fertilize peppers three times with chicken manure (1:10), alternating such fertilizing with foliar fertilizing. For the latter, use mineral fertilizers. Nitrophoska (tbsp per bucket of water) is perfect.

If it is hot outside and it rains frequently, pinion the pepper (remove side shoots), especially the lower shoots. And vice versa, if the sun burns relentlessly, but it is dry, the plants do not shoot, since the leaf mass perfectly protects against moisture evaporation.

During the growing season, peppers need to be pruned several times, trying to shorten the longest shoots so that there are no shaded branches. Be sure to remove all pepper shoots below the main fork of its stem, as well as branches inside the crown. Perform pruning once every seven to ten days and after harvesting the fruits. Simultaneously with pruning, soil cultivation is also carried out. Lure pollinating insects into the garden by spraying the peppers with a sugar solution during flowering: take 100 g of sugar and 2 g of boric acid per liter of hot water. Plants also respond well to fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizers.

If you are not happy with frequent watering, you can reduce the amount: mulch the pepper with rotted straw. In this case, you will need a watering can no more than once every 10 days.

Don’t forget about staking the plants, which is done after hilling and mulching.

Pests and diseases

To drive away the mole cricket, about an hour before placing the pepper seedlings in the holes, fill them with water.

During the season, the vegetable must be pollinated at least 3 times using wood ash - preferably with dew.

Aphids do not tolerate whey: dilute one and a half liters in a bucket of water, then dust the pepper with sifted wood ash.

Sometimes summer residents complain that peppers do not produce buds. This comes from overfeeding plants. nitrogen fertilizers: not necessarily mineral, but also organic, including manure or infusion of nettles and other weeds. By the way, fresh manure Peppers are generally contraindicated.

workshop

• With a lack of potassium, the pepper leaves curl and a drying border appears on them.
• If a plant lacks nitrogen, its leaves become dull and, acquiring a grayish tint, gradually become smaller.
• When there is little phosphorus, the underside of pepper leaves turns deep purple, and the leaves themselves are pressed closer to the trunk of the plant and rise up.
• If there is not enough magnesium, the leaves become marbled, and excess nitrogen in the soil leads to the dropping of pepper ovaries and flowers.

Another trouble: the pepper blooms, but does not form ovaries. This most often affects greenhouse peppers, because high temperatures and high air humidity prevent normal pollination. The same thing can happen with extreme cold. In this case, drugs to improve pollination, for example, Bud or Ovary, will help.

Regulate the temperature: depending on the weather, either ventilate the greenhouse or, conversely, turn on the heating.

During prolonged cold weather (which often characterizes the Siberian summer), sharply reduce watering: then the peppers will not get sick. Also, in cool weather, give your plants foliar feeding on the leaves with any available preparation (Rostkom, Epin-extra, Zircon, etc.).