Autumn period I divide raspberry tree care into two stages: early and late. The first part begins after the last harvest and includes the end of August and the first weeks of September, when it is still quite warm. The crop at this time may still show some minor growth activity.

The second period of care begins after the leaves fall and lasts until frost. During the first frosts, sudden freezing of the soil is possible. Active processes in the bushes cease, and the plant tends to quickly prepare for wintering.

I'm looking after my raspberries all year round, but in the fall I try to give him maximum attention. My list compulsory work care includes pruning, fertilizing, preventative treatments, watering and shelter.

Autumn care for raspberries - 5 basic rules

In the fall, after harvesting, the bushes are depleted and need feeding. Therefore, I add potassium sulfate at the rate of: teaspoon per square meter landing

If raspberries were planted this year and you fertilized the soil well, from autumn feeding you can refuse. It is important not to overfeed the plant, as you can get the opposite reaction: instead of preparing for dormancy, it will begin to actively develop.

To get a beautiful, strong bush, I definitely carry out autumn pruning: I remove thin and weak branches, leaving only strong young shoots, at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. I shorten the remaining shoots by 10-20 cm. I remove old branches that will no longer bear fruit to the very root.

Already at the end of August I reduce the frequency of watering. This is necessary to prepare the shoots for bed, since nutritious soil with an abundance of moisture, their growth will not stop, and at the first frost they will die. But the soil should not be allowed to dry out. If there is not a lot of rain at the end of summer and autumn, I irrigate the raspberry tree at the rate of 10 liters of water per square meter, twice a month.

If there are leaves that have not fallen on the bushes before the frost, I recommend removing them manually. If this is not done, they will become damp and begin to rot. This procedure must be performed very carefully so as not to hurt the kidneys. I put on a soft glove and run my hand from bottom to top along the branch. You cannot do this in the opposite direction, as you can break off the dormant buds.

Raspberry is a fairly hardy shrub, but it does not like low temperatures. To protect my plantings from frost, I begin preparing for winter in mid-autumn. In harsh climatic zones Branches should not be left at a height of more than half a meter.

I bend the stems to the ground and secure them with wire so that they are completely hidden under the snow crust. If your winter is frosty but snowless, you can use non-woven material for covering.

In the fall, I carefully clean the raspberry patch, collect dry branches, leaves, rotten fruits and burn them at the stake. When I am completely confident in the health of the bushes, I will send the leaves to compost heap and use it in the future as fertilizer.

After preventive cleaning, I carefully treat the bushes with a 5% solution Bordeaux mixture. It is important to choose the right day for spraying: the weather should be dry and calm. It is advisable that after the procedure there is no rain for at least one day.

Raspberry is an undemanding shrub, but for abundant fruiting It is necessary to monitor the development of plants and care for them. By following my recommendations, you will receive a rich harvest of tasty and high-quality berries every year.

Petrova Inna Vasilievna

26.09.2015

Proper care of raspberries in the fall includes pruning, fertilizing, processing and removing weeds. Below we will answer all questions related to preparing raspberries for the winter cold.

How important is proper care?

But it's not very important. You don’t have to care for raspberries at all - neither in autumn nor in summer. This unpretentious plant and she will survive anyway. Only now there will be fewer berries, they will be smaller, and their sugar content will decrease.

If you want to receive consistently big harvest In order to produce marketable and tasty berries, you will have to constantly and conscientiously care for raspberries. However, this is not a very difficult job.

Preparing for winter

Ideally, preparing raspberries for winter should begin not in the fall, but in the summer. It is necessary to make sure that the plants go to winter with “ripened wood” - in quotes, because it is not wood and cannot ripen. To do this, it is necessary to provide the raspberries with a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium, protect them from weeds, diseases and pests - and, of course, water them in a timely manner.

Weeding

Weeds (many of them belong to the Rosaceae family, like raspberries) use the necessary cultivated plants nutrients and soil moisture. Tall weeds shade the planting, and in large numbers they increase the humidity in the root zone, which contributes to the development of rot and some other raspberry diseases. In addition, foci of infections persist in and on them and pests overwinter. In general, there are more than enough arguments for weeding raspberries for the winter.

The work is not difficult: carefully tear everything out weeds. Wheatgrass, sow thistle and everything that is about to bloom or bear fruit - in compost pit. The rest can be used as mulch.

Fertilizing raspberries in autumn

Since the topic of feeding is quite extensive, we published a separate material “How and with what to feed raspberries in the fall.” We recommend you read it. Here we will only give brief conclusions from it:

• nitrogen nutrition is necessary for secondary root growth, but plants will have enough nitrogen reserves from spring and summer feeding;
• as the main phosphorus fertilizer superphosphate should be used, which is embedded in the soil;
• potassium increases the winter hardiness of plants. Use potassium magnesium or potassium monophosphate, which also contains phosphorus. Do not forget to recalculate the application rate taking into account the nutrient content;
• if you are too lazy to do all these things, buy phosphorus-potassium fertilizer for shrubs and follow the instructions. True, if you decide to feed raspberries in the fall using ready-made fertilizer, you will have to rely only on the integrity of the manufacturer. This is a pretty shaky thing.

One of the most complex issues related to caring for raspberries in the fall. Do I need to trim? How to trim correctly? What to do with cut shoots? We will answer everything consistently.

Should raspberries be pruned in the fall?

Necessary. Long shoots are also a reservoir for infections and pests. In addition, they will evaporate moisture even in winter, weakening the rhizomes. In addition, in a harsh winter, weakened shoots will still dry out or freeze. In addition, a healthy rhizome quickly compensates for losses from autumn pruning in the spring.

How to prune raspberries correctly in the fall?

Firstly - with pruning shears. Make sure it is well sharpened - the pruner should cut, not press. Soft raspberry stems often jam blunt instruments.

Secondly, it depends on the variety. Some varieties (mostly varieties poorly adapted to harsh winters, and they are almost always remontant) are cut off completely, leaving on the surface only the remainder of the shoot with 6...7 buds. This shoot must be covered for the winter.

In the vast majority of cases, during autumn pruning, all old, diseased and weakened shoots are removed, as well as shoots that interfere with the care of the bushes. The rest usually survive the winter well. In total, each plant should have no more than 4...6 shoots left

What to do with cut shoots?

What happens if you don’t prune raspberries in the fall and put them off until spring?

Nothing particularly tragic. It will survive the winter worse and produce a smaller harvest than it could. In general, pruning raspberries in the fall is simple. If in doubt, here is a video for beginners.

Video: pruning raspberries for the winter

Mulch helps retain moisture in the soil and reduces the amount of watering. You can use this technique if you have plant debris or other mulch material. If not, then it’s not worth walking through the forest and mowing grass for mulch - this is some completely excessive labor costs.

In the photo: options for mulching raspberries

The ideal mulch for raspberries is rotted leaves or straw. Pine sawdust and other materials that can acidify or alkalize the soil are not suitable, since raspberries prefer a neutral pH. The thickness of the mulch layer is 5..6 cm. More is not necessary: ​​a thick layer of mulch will cause the stems to damp out during the first winter or spring thaw. This will lead to the development of root rot.

Watering raspberries

Even pruning raspberries in the fall is not as important as watering. Plants should not go into winter with a dry root system. If the autumn was dry, be sure to water the plants - not just before the frost, but at least a week in advance.

Covering raspberries in autumn

Caring for raspberries in the fall involves measures to protect plants from frost and wind.

Shoots sticking out vertically will almost certainly die from cold and loss of moisture. They need to be bent to the ground. It should be bent so that the holding nylon cord is located at a height of 20..25 cm from the soil surface. A cord or ribbon can be tied to pegs driven around the perimeter of the plantings.

In the photo: protecting raspberries from winter frosts

Bending down the shoots is carried out after the raspberry leaves fall off or are damaged by autumn frosts. It is better to remove the leaves and burn them.

It is very important to bend the raspberry shoots in time - this is much more important than fertilizing or pruning raspberries in the fall. Dipping too early can lead to damping off. If you do this after frost has set in, the fragile wood may give way and break.

It is equally important to straighten and tie up raspberries in time in the spring, but we will talk about this in a separate article.

At industrial production Raspberries often practice the construction of full-fledged shelters as tall as a person. If you also make such a shelter, there is no need to bend the shoots.

If the winter is snowy, there is no need to cover the raspberries - they will be protected from the cold by the snow. Unfortunately, winters in central Russia are unstable - so you should at least take care of snow retention. As snow retainers, you can use sheets of FSF plywood (it has increased moisture resistance) or polycarbonate (which is even better, because it is not afraid of moisture), which are installed so that the prevailing winds cannot blow snow away from the area occupied by raspberries.

If there is little snow, no snow at all, or it often blows in your area strong winds, you can’t count on snow protection. Use geotextiles - simply lay several layers of spandbond or other material on top of the shoots already pressed to the ground. This will almost certainly protect them even from severe frosts and wind.

Processing raspberries in autumn

There is no need to process raspberries in the fall. Both diseases and insects have already entered the wintering stage and persist either in the soil or in plant debris. We wrote above about the removal of such lesions. Autumn treatments appropriate in southern regions, if there is a high incidence of disease or the plants are very damaged by pests, however, each such treatment should be considered individually.

Despite the fact that raspberries are unpretentious, you cannot do without competent measures to care for them, otherwise instead of a bountiful harvest garden culture wild, non-fruit-bearing thickets will grow in your garden. Pruning raspberries in autumn - the most important procedure, however, this must be done in a special way and at a certain time.

Why are there only owners? personal plot Do they collect berries from an ordinary ordinary bush in “buckets”, and others – just a little? Perhaps it's all about the peculiarities of care. This also applies to pruning raspberries. When and how to prune raspberries correctly? There are several technologies. But today we will talk about one thing - autumn pruning.

It is rare that a garden or vegetable garden does not have a raspberry tree. This shrub is considered unpretentious, and, according to most, requires almost no maintenance. And is it really necessary to prune raspberries? The answer is clearly yes.

If the bushes grow densely, the fruits will not be large and there will not be many of them. Will get worse and taste characteristics raspberries (due to lack of sufficient lighting, nutrition, water, wind blowing).

The pruning procedure is also necessary to prevent diseases, and simply to facilitate harvesting, since there is more space between the thorny bushes, and accordingly, picking berries is more convenient, faster and “without consequences” in the form of scratches.

Basically, fruiting buds are present only on “two-year-olds”. It is these shoots that will bear fruit. And if the old bushes are not removed in time, then they will not allow the young shoots to grow normally, and in this case the raspberries will bear little fruit and not as much delicious berries.

However, there should not be too many young shoots, so they are also removed, thinning out the raspberries. So if you do autumn pruning, excellent harvest You are guaranteed large tasty fruits. In addition, in an aesthetic sense, neat bushes look more beautiful.

What is needed for the procedure - necessary tools

What is “smart pruning”? These are the highlights plus a lot important nuances. The tools you will need are a pruner. It must be sharp, otherwise you will harm the shoots and they will dry out or become sick. Instead of pruning shears, you can take garden shears For thorny bushes, they are convenient because they have long handles(although some, on the contrary, find it more convenient to work with short ones, such as pruning shears).

For complex cases needed garden knife. It is useful when the bush is cut unevenly (when the cut is wrinkled and does not have a round cross-section). This tool will help straighten the cut.

A lopper can also be useful where the trunks are too thick. A rake will be needed to remove cut branches and other “garbage” from the raspberry plantation in order to subsequently burn it all. Poorly sharpened tools increase the risk of raspberries being damaged by fungal diseases due to uneven cutting of the bushes.

Pruning Raspberries in Autumn - Step-by-Step Guide

Raspberries are perennials with a two-year development period. That is, it is two-year-old bushes that produce the harvest. To ensure regular fruiting, the berries do not become smaller, and the raspberry tree does not turn into thickets, systematic thinning and shortening of the bushes is necessary.

As a rule, preparing raspberries for wintering is combined with autumn pruning. All fruit-bearing, diseased, and damaged bushes are removed (under the base), as well as excess young shoots. All this is then burned.

Raspberries are pruned in the fall about a month (a little less) before frost (check the weather forecast first). This period is considered optimal for these purposes.

How to prune raspberries correctly in autumn? For summer period one bush produces up to twenty young shoots. And there should be no more than ten left (when raspberries are arranged in rows) and no more than twelve (when arranged in bushes).

Experienced gardeners, in order to extend the fruiting period of raspberries, trim the bushes to different heights. Some are ten centimeters, others are twenty, others are thirty, others are in half, and others are a quarter. This method of pruning gives smooth fruiting over a long period.

The least-pruned bushes will bear fruit first, and those that have been cut the most will bear fruit later. Please note that significant pruning of all bushes will result in a decrease in yield, although the berries will be larger.

It is advisable to combine pruning with preparation for winter. In this case, immediately after pruning, the bushes are fastened together (or tied) and bent to the soil. IN northern regions you need to cover the raspberries for the winter.

The pruning height depends on the age of the bushes and their “condition”, that is, how they look. Two-year-olds are trimmed to the base. Annuals are pruned only halfway. It is important to take into account the specifics of growth; the bushier and faster growing the variety, the shorter the pruning should be.

Cut branches should be no higher than one and a half meters (this is the maximum). Varieties that bear fruit abundantly in the first year need to be pruned to the base, as young shoots will grow again in the spring.

In short, the bushes that will bear fruit on next year, are partially pruned, the old ones are removed completely, and the young ones are thinned out. After pruning, it is useful to treat the remaining branches with phytosporin (or iron sulfate). This will prevent the formation of diseases.

Caring for bushes after pruning

After pruning, the raspberry tree requires care; it is minimal and does not require much effort. First you need to thoroughly water the entire raspberry plantation. After the soil dries, it needs to be mulched.

Carrying out autumn mulching necessary to protect the soil from harmful influences weather conditions(blowing, washing out, freezing). This event is a guarantee good growth and fruiting plantings for the next year. Mulching is carried out with dry grass or leaves, humus, hay, peat, straw, bark, sawdust.

After this, fertilizing is carried out. If you live in a region with a harsh climate, then raspberries need to be covered for the winter. All these events are carried out shortly before the first frost. Some of the branches are tied to each other and bent to the ground. You need to bend down carefully and with small angle tilt Otherwise the branches will simply break.

You can use a special covering material or natural one - branches, straw, sawdust, dry leaves. However, if there are a lot of rodents in the area, then it is better not to use natural covering material.

Feeding is most often done with manure, humus, and bird droppings, but you can also feed with mineral fertilizers. Please note that nitrogen-based fertilizers are contraindicated, as they will cause an increase in shoot growth, but in this case you may not get a harvest.

Features of pruning remontant raspberries

Autumn pruning of remontant raspberries has its own nuances. Despite the fact that this procedure Most often it is carried out at the end of fruiting time; pruning of this type of raspberry depends on the climate of the place where it grows. Autumn pruning is more suitable for warm regions, and for the northern ones spring is preferable.

Please also take into account that the remontant variety bears fruit on the shoots of both the first and second years. So there is an opportunity to get a harvest twice. Most often, the second wave of fruiting is not as abundant as the first, however, almost until the first significant cold snap you will be able to pick berries.

Pruning of this type of raspberry in the fall is done before the onset of frost, all old branches are removed under the base. If the bushes are planted in the same year, they are shortened to twenty centimeters. Pruning in the fall also allows you to protect yourself from diseases and pests; they have nothing to reproduce on. In the spring, new bushes will grow and bear fruit.

After pruning, it is necessary to treat the bushes special solutions. The most popular drug used for these purposes is Bordeaux mixture (three percent solution). All trimmed parts of the raspberries must be burned.

In the spring, non-viable bushes will be found. All branches that are frozen, broken or withered are cut off completely (depending on their condition) or to the “living part” of the bush. This is done before the leaves bloom, in March-April. Periodic pruning of raspberries is the key to good harvest. This will take a little time, but the result will be impressive.

Conclusion

Raspberries are a widespread berry crop in our country. She doesn't demand special attention, however, in order to receive all summer bountiful harvest, something still has to be done. In order for your efforts to bring results, it is important what exactly you do and how you do it. One of these events is correct pruning raspberry

Now you know how to properly prune raspberries in the fall. There are still some things left to be done mandatory rules, and the raspberry tree will generously thank you for your care. There are few rules - regular watering, weeding, loosening, protection from diseases and insects, application of fertilizers.

For a gardener who values ​​the harvest from his plot, all of the above concerns related to raspberries are banal and not burdensome, especially since this is “fraught” with a good harvest of healthy and tasty berries.

Feeding raspberries during flowering and fruiting is the main condition for a good harvest and plant health. Conventional varieties that produce a harvest once a year need to be provided with nutrients even before flowering begins, or better yet, in the fall to ensure establishment vegetative buds next season.

Remontant varieties They give 2 harvests, so it is advisable to pay a little attention to the raspberry tree before the second flowering begins, so that the second harvest is larger or at least the same as the first.

Usually the second harvest of raspberries is smaller due to the fact that by the time of the second flowering the plants draw all the nutrition from the soil.

What do raspberries like?

The raspberry root system is located at a depth of up to 50 cm. This depends on how deep the fertile layer is, Therefore, the raspberry plant’s first preference is the presence of humus in the soil.

We can conclude that fertilizer for raspberries should be mostly of organic origin: ash, manure, green manure. More the better. Organic substances for feeding raspberries increase the depth of the fertile layer, soil looseness, and the number of beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

Another feature of the nutrition of plants with a fibrous root system is the inability to absorb substances in dry form. The surface layer dries out quickly in summer and autumn, which is why fertilizers for raspberries cannot reach the roots. The soil should always be moist.

This is necessary so that soil bacteria do not stop their activity of processing organic matter and turning it into humus. When it dries out, part of the microflora dies, and the other part stops working.

To prevent the soil from drying out, water the raspberry tree often: at least every other day. Mulching the soil under the roots will help slow down the evaporation of moisture. Mulch prevents the growth of weeds that compete with the raspberry root system for nutrients, and also prevents water from evaporating from the soil.

The shrub needs annual pruning. This promotes better passage between the rows and air circulation, and also rids the plant of old damaged branches that do not bring any benefit and take away nutrition.

IN middle lane It is advisable to organize heating of the roots in winter.

In very cold regions, raspberries are either not grown, or a lot of time is spent on them so that the roots do not freeze until spring. Use straw or mowed green manure, or better yet, both for mulching. In a word, there is always something to do with raspberries in the garden in the fall.

Spring events

If you start growing raspberries, then in the spring you need to plant a plantation in several rows. Seedlings are located in single holes or in trenches up to 30 cm deep. The pit is filled with a nutritious substrate - humus, mowed green manure or, as a last resort, mineral fertilizers.

To avoid overgrowing, the distance between the bushes should be at least 1.5 m. When the raspberry tree begins to grow, it will be convenient to walk between the rows and care for the branches. After placing in the ground, the plant is watered - a bucket of water under each bush. Immediately after planting, the soil is mulched with leaves, pine needles or straw, and the tops are also trimmed. approximately 30 cm.

The shoots will take root and grow in the first year. The harvest can only be obtained next year. Raspberry bushes can grow in one place for up to 20 years. The first 10 years are considered the most productive period.

With existing raspberry plantings, you need to know that every year the bush expels up to 10 replacement shoots and shoots that make their way out of the root zone. To prevent thickening of the plantings, all shoots of the third year are removed.

Raspberries can be propagated by shoots, but it is better to cut them off completely, as they grow quickly and take nutrition from the main bush. Nitrogen fertilizers, which are needed for the growth of green mass, mostly end up in the shoots and ensure their growth, while the replacement shoots do not receive anything from the ground.

In the spring, you need to check the bushes for pests in order to spray the greens in time. The stem fly damages the shoots, and they die after rotting.

How to feed remontant raspberries in spring

For feeding raspberries Organic works well in spring:

• mullein dung– 1 shovel per bucket of water, add nitrogen to enrich the solution matchbox urea;

• wood ash, at the same time nitrogen fertilizers applied 2 - 3 weeks after ash solution so that substances cannot neutralize each other;

• bone meal– it is better to make an extract, fill the substance with water, so the nutrients will quickly reach the roots and be absorbed, nitrogen is also added 2 weeks after the flour;

• green manure, if they are used on the farm.

When to feed raspberries with organic matter:

• manure apply once every 2 years;

• ash contribute annually, ash for raspberries is a source of phosphorus, potassium and microelements, which are quickly consumed during fruiting;

• bone meal once every 3 years;

• green manure annually.

After the spring events, you need to decide what to feed the raspberries in the summer. These can be mineral fertilizers that contain potassium and phosphorus. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate, mixed in the required dosages in accordance with the instructions, are suitable.

This is necessary so that bud formation continues in remontant varieties, which continue to bloom and will produce a second harvest at the end of summer. Regular varieties must recover after harvest and set buds for the next season. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers also participate in this process.

In summer, raspberry bushes are inspected for chlorosis, necrosis and pests.

They will say about a lack of nitrogen and phosphorus yellow leaves. In this case, add to the soil in the summer urea - a tablespoon per bucket of water or 10 g ammonium nitrate, 40 g superphosphate per square meter. Without phosphorus, nitrogen absorption will be incomplete and signs of chlorosis will not disappear.

You can use the complex mineral fertilizer Azofos, diluting it according to the scheme specified in the instructions. WITH mineral compounds need to be careful. They are either used in strict dosages or less. Much depends on the type of soil on the site.

On sandy and sandy loam soils The recommended dose is divided into 2–3 doses and administered more often, because nutrients go deeper with watering or rain, and root system raspberries are not deep.

Important! Yellowing is caused by an excess of nitrogen and phosphorus, so you need to know exactly what substances were added and in what quantities

Foliar feeding in spring and summer helps the shrub recover after winter. If sheet plates grow unevenly and the size of the leaves is not the same, then potassium monophosphate and urea are used.

Raspberry processing in August-September

Fertilizing raspberries during the second fruiting period of remontant varieties is carried out with mineral fertilizers. It is advisable to alternate organic and mineral substances so that the fertile layer does not decrease.

In the fall, you can plant new plants. Before the onset of cold weather, the bushes have time to take root and gain strength. To do this, humus, peat, mineral fertilizers or ash are poured into the hole, watered well and a young shoot with buds is planted.

The rest of the plantation after fruiting is shortened or completely cut out.

The shoots of the third year, on which there will be no harvest next year or will be small, are completely removed. Two-year-olds also leave replacement shoots - they give the most large number berries For safety, the bushes are even tied up so that they do not break under the weight of the berries.

If in the spring you introduced organic matter, then how to fertilize raspberries autumn:

• Green manure. In terms of the amount of nutrients, they are equal to manure, while being several tens of times cheaper. Contains all components necessary for plants– nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

It is used in the form of mulch, which, when processing raspberries in the fall for the winter, brings double benefits: it gradually decomposes and fertilizes the soil, protects the roots from drying out and frost. For effective decomposition, the mulch is watered with a solution of EM preparations and covered with straw on top.

• Ash. Since it does not contain nitrogen, it can be used in the fall. Embed in well-drained soil dry matter at the rate of 1 glass per 1 bush.

• Mineral components – superphosphate and potassium. Complex mineral fertilizers containing instant nitrogen are dangerous during the period when raspberries are processed in the fall. Overfeeding with nitrogen weakens the plant; it begins to expel new shoots, which do not have time to become covered with woody crust and die in the winter without shelter.

• Phosphorite flour – phosphorus fertilization long-acting raspberries. There will be no need to add phosphorus substances for the next 3 years.

What to do with raspberries in the fall and how to cover them correctly? Some gardeners cut the shoots at a distance of 60 cm from the ground and leave them without shelter, hoping that the snow will cover the raspberry tree. Although it is better to do it differently:

• after the end of fruiting, remove all leaves;

• shorten shoots by 30 cm;

• bend it to the ground and secure it in this position - usually using staples.

If the winter in the region is snowy, then raspberries overwinter well under the snow. If there is little snow and there are periodic frosts, then you need to use plant material. In the shelter, the raspberry tree is protected from forest animals and rodents that eat the shoots, as well as from sudden temperature changes.

For an illiterate gardener, pruning raspberries in the fall seems like a trifle. I trimmed the tops and dry branches - and it was done. However, with this approach, you may be left without a harvest next season. In order for raspberries to survive the winter well and delight you with delicious berries in the summer, you need to know which stems to cut, how many shoots to leave, and other nuances.

Do I need to prune raspberries in the fall?

It is believed that it is necessary to prune raspberries in the fall so that there is a large harvest for the next year. The opinion is correct. However, additional pruning is aimed at thinning the plantings. Each raspberry bush is better ventilated, and more air falls on the leaves and berries in the summer. sunlight. The crop is less susceptible to fungal diseases. Cutting out old branches helps get rid of pests that hibernate in the wood. Additionally, pruning has an aesthetic function. The plant takes on a neat appearance.

Important! Raspberries tend to grow quickly. It is unwise to prune healthy fruit-bearing branches for the sake of thinning. It is better to plant the culture.

When is it better to prune raspberries - in autumn or spring?

Gardeners are more inclined to autumn pruning. The fact is that pests overwinter inside old branches. Fungal spores adhere to the surface of the bark. In spring, all enemies awaken and move onto healthy stems.

The disadvantage of autumn pruning is the inability to fully form the bush. During the winter, healthy shoots can freeze or break under the snow. To ensure the formation of fruit-bearing shrubs, some gardeners prefer spring pruning.

Timing of pruning

Do not delay pruning raspberries. It is advisable to remove old two-year-old shoots immediately after fruiting. Weak, damaged annual branches are also pruned. The need for haste is explained by the active activity of pests in the fall. For the winter they try to hide inside loose wood.

The exact timing of the procedure cannot be determined. It all depends on the variety climatic conditions region. The plant itself will signal the start of pruning. As soon as the raspberries finish bearing fruit, you can begin the procedure. If the variety gave its last harvest in August, then you shouldn’t wait until autumn. Bushes are pruned at the end of the last month of summer.

WITH remontant raspberries things are different. After the first summer wave of harvest, many varieties reappear in the fall. In addition, before the onset of winter, remontant raspberries direct nutrients to the roots through the foliage. Optimal time pruning is considered to be the period after leaf fall and three weeks before the expected date of frost.

How to properly prune raspberries in the fall

The culture is considered perennial, but its development period is two years. The berries appear precisely on the shoots of the second year of life. Proper pruning of raspberries in the fall promotes regular fruiting. The berries grow large, and the garden bed does not turn into an overgrown jungle.

Pruning raspberries in the fall is the first stage of preparation for wintering. In addition to excess shoots that have finished bearing fruit, all damaged stems are removed. The entire bush may even be sick. Such a plant must be uprooted without regret. All branches are immediately removed from the garden bed and burned.

Proper formation of a bush involves leaving the optimal number of shoots. Over the summer, their number increases to 20. This is a lot for a plant. To reduce the load, the bush is formed from 10 shoots if the raspberries grow in rows. With a bush arrangement of the crop, it is allowed to leave up to 12 shoots.

Gardeners sometimes practice a trick to extend the fruiting period. In autumn, raspberry bushes are pruned to different heights. The difference between each plant is approximately 10 cm. In spring, the bushes that are least shortened are the first to bear fruit. The plant that is trimmed by a quarter brings the harvest later than everyone else.

Important! Raspberry shoots that are greatly shortened in the fall will bear fruit in the spring. large berries, but the yield of the bush will decrease.

Scheme for pruning raspberries in autumn

The most common scheme for pruning raspberries in the fall for beginners is as follows:

• With a sharp pruner, diseased and two-year-old stems are cut to the very root without stumps;
• Next in line are the young shoots that did not have time to ripen by autumn;
• if there are more than 10 healthy branches left in the bush, the excess stems are removed at the root;
• the remaining shoots are shortened by 1/3 of the length, making a cut at an angle;
• shoots of raspberry varieties with spreading bushes are cut to 2/3 of the length, leaving 5-6 fruiting branches;
• the cut site for disinfection is covered with ash;
• Putting on a mitten, run your hand along the stem, removing all the foliage.

When pruning raspberries in the fall, a beginner may have difficulty accurately identifying two-year-old shoots. There is nothing complicated here. In two-year-olds, the bark color is dark brown. All such stems are ruthlessly removed. Annuals are distinguished by a light brown bark color with a greenish tint. They form a bush.

Dry old branches are hard for pruning shears, but they can easily be broken off by hand at the root. Living shoots are elastic. They are cut only with pruning shears, and always at the root. Leaving stumps is unacceptable.

When pruning raspberries in the fall, it is worth inspecting all the remaining annual shoots. Branches may be affected by stem galite. The disease manifests itself as a thickening of the stem in the shape of a ball, inside of which the larvae live. This branch is cut below the affected area. It is permissible to leave a stump at least 40 cm long. If there are enough other healthy branches in the bush, then it is better to cut off the affected stem at the root.

When pruning in the fall, you need to take a good look at the color of the bark of the annuals left for fruiting. Raspberries have a terrible disease - purple spot. If the bark is covered with brown or black spots, then the bush must be completely removed.

Annuals must be shortened by 1/3 of the length. Usually it is 20-30 cm. The tops of raspberries never ripen. If you do not prune them, the plant will survive the winter worse. The top delays the maturation of the entire branch, and in winter it can freeze.

The video shows pruning raspberries in the fall:

There is a double pruning scheme. The procedure is carried out in two stages: summer and spring. This scheme allows you to significantly increase the raspberry yield. In June, when the height of the annual stems reaches 80 cm, the top 10 cm long is cut off with pruning shears. By autumn, about five side shoots will grow below the cut on each branch. Their length usually varies from 30 to 50 cm. New growth cannot be shortened in the fall. The raspberries are bent down and prepared for wintering.

A second pruning is performed in early spring. All grown up by autumn side shoots shorten by 10 cm. In summer, the central stem of the raspberry and all the lateral growth will still sprout fruit-bearing branches, each of which, in turn, will grow up to five more shoots. As a result, each stem of a raspberry bush will have up to 16 fruiting branches.

Pruning remontant raspberry varieties in the fall follows a slightly different pattern. The procedure often depends on the climatic conditions of the region where it grows. berry crop. Usually, remontant varieties in the south are pruned in the fall. In the northern regions they prefer to postpone the procedure until spring.

Remontant raspberries are capable of bearing berries on one- and two-year-old shoots. This feature of the crop allows the gardener to reap a double harvest. In the first year after planting, raspberries will bear fruit. In autumn, all branches are cut off at the root. In the second year, the pattern of bush formation depends on the wishes of the gardener. If only one harvest is needed, the entire bush is pruned at the root again in the fall. In spring, berries will appear on annual stems. To get a double harvest, only fruit-bearing branches are cut out in the fall. In summer, the young shoots left behind will bring the first harvest. In the future, the second wave will grow on annual stems that grew in the spring.

Attention! After trimming remontant raspberries and the ground around the bush is treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture to kill pests.

The video talks about pruning remontant raspberry varieties:

Caring for raspberries after pruning in the fall

After pruning, the raspberries are generously filled with water. Remontant varieties are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture for disinfection. Conventional varieties can be treated with fungicides in the spring. After watering, wait until the water is absorbed. The soil throughout the raspberry plantation is covered with a thick layer of mulch. Any organic material will do, but it is best to use pine needles. Needles will protect bushes from rodents in winter.

After pruning, raspberries need additional feeding to restore their strength. Mineral fertilizers undesirable. It is best to use compost, a solution of bird droppings or peat.

For winter, raspberry branches are tied with rope and carefully bent to the ground. They shelter the culture only in the northern regions. In most other areas, raspberries overwinter without shelter.

Conclusion

Pruning raspberries in the fall should be carried out in a timely manner and in accordance with all the rules. This is the only way you can count on bountiful harvest next summer. Mistakes made will result in the gardener getting green bushes instead of berries.