Triple socket: installation features. How to install an internal triple socket Internal triple sockets for the kitchen

In order to facilitate and improve living conditions in an apartment, a triple socket is often installed. This step allows you to connect several electrical appliances in one part of the room at once. You can replace the block or socket with a double or triple one, or install a new one yourself. It is important to follow the basic rules and recommendations, as well as choose the right tools and materials.

Why install triple sockets

Connecting a triple socket is most often required by people who do not plan to carry out repairs in the near future, but want more convenience for using electronics and electrical equipment. Connecting such a device has advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

• low cost;
• safety and reliability of fastenings;
• no need to lay additional wires;
• the ability to quickly improve the functionality of the electrical network in the apartment;
• the ability to carry out repairs easily and quickly in case of malfunctions;
• ease of installation of the triple socket and its use.

At the same time, you need to be prepared for the shortcomings:

• there is a need to drill socket boxes for three modules;
• the use of additional devices (in particular, a hammer drill) will be required;
• During operation, a lot of dust and dirt may form.

Installing a triple outlet can greatly improve the functionality of a room's wiring without requiring additional cable costs or space.

Main varieties

The factory outlet is a device that provides safe contact closure for uninterrupted power supply to electrical appliances. Inside it there are terminals with springs attached to them and contacts. From the outside, the socket design consists of a plastic box (case) with a working part.

There are two main types of sockets:

1. Socket C5. Standard Soviet design with a square body and a round cutout for the fork. Such sockets are not grounded and are suitable for most old-style electrical appliances, but are designed for regular 220 V.
2. Socket C6 (Euro). Withstands higher current than C5 and is suitable for connecting devices with Euro plugs and connectors. Has grounding. It is safer than the first option and is securely mounted on the wall.

Over time, the need to improve the functionality of outlets increases, especially when it comes to electrical appliances in the kitchen. According to modifications, sockets today can be divided into the following types:

• internal for hidden wiring;
• external (external), having a protective cover;
• built-in and overhead;
• with and without grounding;
• having a circuit breaker for overload protection.

Regardless of the type and modification, when installing a triple socket, the so-called block assembly method is used. It involves the installation of three separate sockets with a frame connecting them. If there is a need to purchase parts separately, then when selecting this frame you need to pay attention to the correspondence of its shape and dimensions to the structure.

There are also triple sockets that connect to one socket box. They have a triangular shape, take up a little less space, but are not as convenient and safe to use.

Preparatory activities for installation

You should begin preparing for installation by choosing the installation location. The Euro standard involves fixing the device at a distance of about 20–40 cm from the floor. This is important in order to comply with basic safety and aesthetic rules.

The second important activity is the calculation of current strength. It must be remembered that network elements are always designed for a given operating current. If this point is not observed, operational safety is sharply reduced, and there is a high probability of overloads and, as a consequence, overheating. The wire cross-section must also match the load. In this case, it should be at least 1 square. mm for copper and at least 2.5 sq. mm - for aluminum. The three-core option will be the most successful.

Parts and products for installing sockets should be selected based on the specified room parameters and operating current. It is also important to respect the aesthetic features of the apartment, to choose the safest and most suitable materials in color and appearance. Installation of hidden and external devices also has different requirements.

At a distance of 20–40 cm from the floor, you need to make markings using a pencil or marker. It is also advisable to use a level to create a straight horizontal line. To do this, marking the first installation center, you need to set aside half the width of the trim on the socket box. It is also useful to apply markings in the form of horizontal and vertical lines.

Installation of a socket box

If a solid socket with three sockets was selected for installation, only one socket box may be needed. A block with three separate mechanisms is fixed on single socket boxes. Difficulties may arise when installing the unit on a brick and concrete wall, since additional devices may be required. It is easier to make socket boxes with drywall.

Required tools:

• hammer drill or drill (for concrete, drywall and brick);
• a nozzle in the form of a rounded crown with incisors;
• two types of screwdrivers: straight and figured;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• chisel;
• voltage measuring device.

Stages of placing socket boxes:

1. Using a drill or hammer drill and a nozzle, make a round hole in the wall (you should drill until the crown is completely immersed in the wall).
2. On the back of the socket box, press out three holes for the prepared cables.
3. Drill two holes for the wires between the three holes for the main cable.

Working with drywall and brick requires compliance with basic safety rules. It is important to remember that such building materials are very fragile and often crumble when working with them.

In order for the socket boxes to stay in place well, they need to be secured with a thick aqueous solution of alabaster. Before installing the socket box in the wall, the hole made must be lubricated with the resulting mixture. The devices usually hold up well on a well-prepared mixture, but if they fail, more alabaster should be added to the solution. After electrical installation, the solution must be left to dry for two to three hours.

Do not forget about high-quality grounding - it is important not only for ease of use, but also for safety purposes.

Wiring

To connect the wires, you must use a parallel circuit. In this case, two of the additional wires are connected to each existing wire, which will be directed to the second and third sockets. Next, use the indicator to determine zero and phase, then turn off the power supply. After this, the wires are twisted, passing them one by one to other socket boxes through the holes in their rear walls.

Connecting a block of three sockets with one socket box requires the use of a cable. This installation option should be avoided, as it will be less safe and the product will wear out quickly.

Connecting a triple socket

When connecting a triple socket with separate socket boxes, you must connect the wires to the terminals and press them with the terminals. Next, they should be twisted inside the device and the central part should be installed. Only after this can the decorative part, as well as the lid (if necessary), be secured.

Important! Installing a new socket in an existing lighting group may require replacing the machine. This must be checked before starting work.

The socket installation is complete. Now you can check its functionality by connecting the local power supply in the room. It is best not to use devices that consume a lot of energy when checking.

Installation Safety Guidelines

All work must be carried out in accordance with basic safety regulations. This will prevent damage to the device and accidents. It is important to comply with the following requirements:

1. Before carrying out work, turning off the electricity in the room and breaking the circuit is mandatory.
2. You can only use specialized devices and tools with rubber or plastic insulation.
3. The electrical wire must be of appropriate length. It is unsafe to use too long.
4. If it is necessary to connect wires, the best fastening option is soldering.

1. You should avoid buying cheap products.
2. Using a cable during installation may reduce the safety of the installation.
3. It is important to monitor the condition of the insulation and, if necessary, use plastic tubes for wires.
4. The wires and socket must match the available power.

Thus, in order to efficiently and quickly install a triple socket, it is necessary to correctly select mechanisms and materials, as well as ensure maximum safety during operation. In this case, the best installation option is three sockets with their own sockets, fastened with a solid frame.

Not everything and not always goes according to plan. Sometimes you make your own mistakes, and sometimes you have to improve on the mistakes of others. What we mean is that if there are not enough sockets in the house, then it is useless to look for the culprits. There are only two options left - pull extension cords or insert new sockets in those places where their location is most convenient. If repairs are not planned, then the second option will hardly please the owners, but if you install a triple socket instead of a single socket, this can somewhat improve the situation.

Why install triple sockets

But indeed, it is much more convenient to install three instead of one socket than to use unreliable tees and doubles. It's not just inconvenient. This can lead to dire consequences. We don’t want to scare anyone, but the extra tees are:

Therefore, installing a triple socket will be a solution in many situations.

Types of triple sockets, sockets with a switch

The sockets with a switch deserve special attention. Built-in designs for three consumers are extremely rare, but the switch on the socket can de-energize part of the circuit when there is confidence that it will not be used for a long time, thereby eliminating the occurrence of short circuits or other troubles during the absence of the owners.

You also need to remember that socket designs can, in principle, be of two types:

All this fully applies to triple sockets with internal fastening. You can also go the other way - buy three separate sockets, and a triple frame for sockets will hide them.

It all depends on the design features of the wall. If the wall is plasterboard, then drilling two more holes using a special crown will not be problematic. But if the wall in the house is concrete or brick, then this entails costs both in time and in work that are almost identical to minor repairs. Which option to choose is up to the master to decide.

For now, we are interested in a simpler and more economical option - installing a block of three sockets in one mounting hole. Frankly speaking, this is not the wisest way to increase the number of consumers per wire, and there are arguments for this opinion, but for now let’s consider the positive aspects of such an installation:

However, there are serious restrictions on the use of such sockets. Firstly, very often people are caught being stingy by slipping in poor quality contacts. Before purchasing, you need to make sure that all contacts are certainly brass. Then you should pay attention to the quality of the plastic cover and the material of the case. Ideally, the core should be ceramic and the cover material should be non-flammable plastic.

How to connect a triple socket

When choosing an installation method, you need to start from the cross-section of the wire that is laid in the wall. If we decide not to groove the wall or drill additional spaces for a multi-place indoor socket, then in any case, we should make sure that the wire can withstand three potential consumers. If this is not done, the wiring may burn, then in any case you will have to trench the wall to replace the wire in the damaged area.

If, nevertheless, a decision is made to install three sockets in different socket boxes, then they must be connected in accordance with the diagram given above. In this case, you may have to lay additional sections of cable, and here you need to take into account that they are laid exclusively horizontally or vertically. Diagonal routing is not permitted.

If you take into account all the nuances associated with the load and wire cross-section, and also buy a high-quality internal triple socket, it will serve faithfully until the next repair. Happy work!

Connecting a triple socket can cause some confusion for non-professionals. But there is nothing complicated about it, and following our simple tips, you can connect everything in just a few minutes.

The main thing here is to be attentive and not to neglect safety rules.

Before proceeding directly to the connection, we should determine the possibility and correctness of the decision we made. For this purpose, the rated current of the circuit breaker that powers this group, as well as the absence of prohibitions on the installation of sockets in a room of this type.

So:

• Before installing a triple socket into an already operating electrical network group, you should determine whether the circuit breaker can withstand the additional load. To do this, we need to calculate the possible rated current in the outlet. This is done by summing the rated currents of the most powerful consumers of electrical energy that can be connected to a given outlet.
• If we know only the rated power of these devices, then we calculate the rated current based on the formula I=P/U×cosα. Where I is the rated current, P is the rated power of the device (usually indicated in the passport or on the device body) and cosα is the coefficient power of the electrical appliance (the operating instructions for the device should help you find its value, but if you haven’t found it, you can take it equal to 1).
• Now, by summing up all rated currents for a given group, we can check the machine’s compliance with these parameters. Often the machine needs to be replaced with a more powerful one. But if the outlet is designed to connect low-power video and audio equipment, then this may not be necessary.

Pay attention! According to clause 6.2.2 of the PUE, the maximum permissible rated current of the circuit breaker supplying the group network cannot be more than 25A. So, if you already have a 25A machine installed, you will have to think about dividing the group or restrictions on connecting devices to this group.

• Also, if the installation of a triple socket in an already existing group involves monitoring the cross-section of the supply wire. Often, if the machine is not suitable, then the existing wiring will not meet the new requirements. Therefore, again, you will have to think about the restrictions on the connected load for this group.
• Well, finally, you need to decide, is it possible to install an outlet here at all? The socket cannot be installed in bathrooms or storage rooms. At the same time, there is an exception for bathrooms, which allows installation when an RCD is installed in the power circuit of this group.

• In addition, if it is to be installed on a combustible base, care should be taken to ensure its fire safety. To do this, the mountings for the socket must be made of fireproof materials. Typically, steel products are used for this.

Installing a triple socket

Assembling a triple socket

At the moment, there are a huge number of different sockets on the market. But either the price for them is too high, or they do not meet our requirements. Therefore, a triple socket is often assembled from three ordinary sockets.

We will now tell you how to make a triple rosette:

• To do this, we need three ordinary sockets with the required nominal parameters. This could be one 6A outlet, a second 10A outlet and a third 16A outlet. The main thing is that they meet the above requirements. We will also need an overlay for the triple rosette, which will create the appearance of a single whole.

• We measure the required height from the floor, usually 30 cm, but you can choose any other height. At the location where the socket is installed, draw a horizontal line parallel to the floor.
• Now we remove the decorative covers on the front side of our single sockets and install a triple cover in their place.
• We put cover boxes on the sockets and apply our triple socket to the mark. We mark the place where the wall is grooved for the embedded boxes (see).

Pay attention! If you use plastic embedding boxes with guides (they are also called drywall embeddings), then just put on the embeds and attach them to the installation site.

• We drill the wall and install the embedded boxes. We fasten them and install the sockets directly. If you did everything according to the dimensions, then you should have a nice triple socket. Moreover, its price is often significantly lower than that of similar stationary analogues. Now all that remains is to make the connection.

Connection from distribution box

The most common case is to connect the outlet directly from. In 99% of cases it is used when installing socket groups, as well as in most cases when adding sockets to existing groups.

So:

• First of all, we make the connection between the outlets. To do this, we need a wire with a cross-section no smaller than the wire with which we plan to make the connection.
• From the outlet to which you plan to connect, we make jumpers to the adjacent outlet. And from the next one - to the third outlet. In this case, we attach the grounding wire to the grounding contacts, and the neutral and phase wires to the power ones.
• Now our triple socket in one socket is ready for connection. But before performing it, you should relieve the tension from the group with which you will be working. In addition, if wires of other groups pass through the junction box, it is also worth removing the voltage from them.
• We open the distribution box and determine the phase, neutral and protective wires of our group. If your electrical network is installed in accordance with PUE standards, then the blue wire is neutral, yellow-green is protective and the third is phase. If this is not the case, then we look for these wires by briefly applying voltage. The search methodology is described in other articles on our site.
• Now we connect the phase wire in the distribution box and on the socket, then we do the same with the neutral and protective wires. It is important not to confuse the connection location of the protective wire; phase and neutral can be connected to any power contacts of the socket.

• After connecting all the wires and closing the junction box, you can apply voltage and test the functionality of our sockets.

Connecting one outlet to another

This method is often used when adding a new outlet to an existing group. It is designed to reduce the amount of work associated with gating walls and reduce the final price of connection. And although it is rarely used, it also has a right to exist.

• In order to make such a connection with your own hands, you should first of all assemble our triple socket, as described above.
• The next step is to remove the voltage from the outlet from which the connection is to be made.
• Then we open this socket and then proceed according to the established scheme. Essentially we are installing a jumper like between the sockets in our triple socket.
• This completes the connection and you can apply voltage to our entire socket group.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install a triple socket and assemble it from several single sockets. We hope this will help you in creating a comfortable electrical network for your home.

I would just like to note that adding to an existing network carries with it certain restrictions. Therefore, they should be used only in exceptional cases.

Nowadays, socket blocks have become widespread. This device includes several connectors for connecting to the network. Previously, blocks of 2 connectors were popular, but now blocks with more than 2 connectors have already gained popularity. Such blocks are mainly popular in places where it is necessary to connect more than 2 devices at the same time. Below we will find out what connection methods are available, what are the subtleties of connecting blocks and will look at socket blocks in more detail.

Installing a socket block: main options

The design of the socket block differs from a regular socket, only in the number of connectors into which devices can be connected.

Such a block consists of a plastic case and an internal part, which is represented by contacts and terminals to which springs for the plugs are attached. Many modern units also have grounding contacts, which increase the safety of the system and reduce the voltage in the unit from connected devices. Socket blocks can be of 2 types.

Namely:

1. Blocks for open wiring. They are mounted on the wall using a special socket mount, which is shaped like a plate.
2. Blocks for hidden wiring. They are mounted into the wall, the same glass as a regular socket.

There are also many other types of socket blocks.

The most practical of these blocks is the retractable block.

Such blocks can easily be mounted into a countertop or cabinet. They extend in the required quantity for use. Such a block performs the same functions as wall-mounted blocks.

What other sockets can you assemble and connect for your kitchen?

It could be:

• Triple;
• Two framed;
• Triples;
• Quadruple;
• Internal socket with centers having sockets.

All this will be perfectly complemented by one switch or several. Installation with sufficient experience will not take much time, the main thing is to make the correct connection that will fit into the socket box. If you know how to properly connect the entire structure to each other and connect it to the wires, then most of the work is already done.

Socket blocks are mainly installed in the kitchen. They are placed at the work table, at a height of 10 cm from the table surface or inside the kitchen unit at a height of 50 cm from the floor. Such blocks are practical if you use more than 3 powerful appliances, for example, a range hood, a multicooker and a refrigerator.

In other rooms they are also used, for example, to connect a computer and a TV at the same time.

Socket blocks can also be used for bathrooms, but it is necessary to purchase blocks with a moisture-resistant casing. In these situations, they are installed at a distance of at least 50 cm from the water supply.

Triple socket: how to connect

Connecting a block of 3 sockets is done using a loop method. This method involves connecting all three groups of the unit to one power line. The creation of loop lines is designed to connect devices with a total power of no more than 16 amperes.

Nowadays, connecting a block of sockets is done by combining; this combination is based on a parallel circuit.

This connection method is actively used in European countries, and in our country it is used to provide a separate powerful line for consumers.

Such a line as parallel involves the connection of two separate cables from the distribution panel.

Namely:

• One cable is directed in the form of a loop and powers 4 sockets from a block of 5 connectors;
• The other cable is connected separately to the 5th connector of the socket group, which will be used for more powerful devices.

This method is great for use, since the 5th individual point is independent of all the others that are located nearby.

The main disadvantage of this connection scheme is the increased cable consumption and the cost of electrician work.

The usual method of connecting a block of sockets and the loop method can be either closed or open. The hidden method involves hollowing out a channel in the wall for laying cables, and the open method involves laying cables on the wall surface.

How to connect a triple socket: preparatory work

The method of wiring installation depends entirely on the material from which the structure is made. The walls of the building can be monolithic concrete, brick or built of wood.

Also, the installation method depends on your plans, that is, do you plan to chisel the wall or will you conduct wiring along the surface of the wall.

When starting installation work, the first thing to do is turn off the power in the area where the work will be carried out. In old-type houses, automatic machines are not installed in each of the rooms, so in this case it is necessary to unscrew the plugs. To complete the work you also need some material and tools.

Namely:

• Wires for jumpers, a strip for attaching the block and the block itself;
• Cable for laying wiring to the place where the unit will be located, cans for sockets and connecting blocks;
• Alabaster and putty;
• A hammer drill, which comes complete with a D 70 drill bit;
• Roulette, construction ruler and marker for marks;
• Construction level and electrical installation tool kit; spatula and container for making the solution.

The choice of a particular block of sockets should be based on the quality of the product and the possibility of connecting a separate conductor.

The crown for the hammer drill must be selected based on the material from which the wall is built. Nozzles for working on concrete and, for example, gypsum differ in operating parameters and, of course, in cost.

Electrical installation: how to assemble a socket

All work that will be carried out on or near cables must begin by disconnecting the power to that area. This rule should be followed not only by a novice master, but also by a true professional.

Installation work on wiring must be performed in the following order:

• You need to lay a wire into the channel that you made for the cable, one end of the cable should be led to the distribution panel, and the other to the installed can for the socket;
• Next, we disassemble the socket block and separate the front panel and loosen the bolts that are designed to press the cable contacts;
• We install jumpers between all contacts of the connectors, that is, we install white wires on all phases in turn and in the same way we install blue wires on the zero connectors;
• We connect the part for connecting the block to the wiring and place it in the jar for the socket and accordingly fix the block in the jar;
• Next, we carry out communications in the separation panel and connect the wire, but do not forget to isolate the connection points;
• Turn on the power supply and use the indicator to check the functionality of the socket block;
• If everything works, then we install the front part of the unit in its place and check the functioning of all connectors using any household appliance.

After this, we complete the wiring by sealing the grooves in the wall and closing the junction box with a lid. Since we used jumpers to connect all the connectors, it turned out to be a cable.0.00 (0 Votes)

Triple sockets allow you to connect up to three consumers in one place. These sockets have one power wire. In most cases, both for external and internal sockets, the block assembly method or so-called prefabricated sockets are used. This method consists of making an assembly of three or more individual sockets.

External visible elements of a triple rosette

For convenience and a more aesthetic appearance of this design, the outer frames of individual sockets are replaced with one common (purchased separately) frame. When purchasing a frame, you should pay attention to the correspondence between the shape of the inside of the front panel of the socket and the shape of the frame. It is advisable to buy sockets with a square inner part of the plastic panel (pictured on the right). They are more versatile in terms of installation options and directions. Although this is a matter of taste of the owner (customer).

This tri-assembly frame may have square spaces for the rosette covers, but the rounded corners are not the same as the frame in the right photo.

It should be remembered that frames are available in various shapes and colors. Expensive sockets and switches are generally sold separately: in one box there is an internal part with contacts and in another box there is an outer decorative cover with a frame. They produce overhead external parts of various colors and shapes.

For external sockets, specially designed (but rarely used) sockets are produced, from which you can partially bite out part of the body and then assemble a triple assembly beautifully and tightly.

Triple socket installation elements.

In addition to special external elements, prefabricated installation boxes are used to equip triple sockets. This part is located in the wall and is usually invisible to users.

Boxes for brick and concrete walls

Composite boxes have bosses or locks that allow the wall-recessed part to be assembled accurately and securely.

Boxes for strip walls

For cavity walls (lining, plasterboard), solid-cast triple installation boxes are also produced.

All of the above applies to quadruple, quintuple and other multi-place sockets. Boxes for cavity walls can also be used in solid walls (brick...), the clamping tabs can be removed

Location of plugs (holes for plugs).

When installing and using triple or more sockets, pay attention to the location of the connection holes for the plugs. It is desirable that these holes run along or at an angle to the line where the sockets are placed (see photo below). A transverse arrangement (as in the bottom photo) can make it difficult to connect the side plugs of electrical appliances.

When using tees - devices for temporarily connecting several consumers to a single outlet, you should be very careful. With this connection method, an additional mechanical and electrical load occurs on the contacts of the main outlet, which can lead to emergency situations.

The main cause of emergency situations lies in loose contacts of the socket. If the contact is poor, both the plug plugs and the plug contacts become very hot. At the same time, they oxidize and melt, which leads to even greater deterioration of the contact and strong heating during subsequent connections. In the future, the socket will burn out. And you don’t even need a lot of power here.

The photo shows a melted plug of an extension cord to which a 1600-watt hair dryer was connected. The hair dryer worked for about 10 minutes. And the main problem was poor contact of the plug in the socket. Before this, a plug with thick plugs was inserted, and then a plug with thin rods was inserted.

More reliable in this case, in my opinion, would be a multi-place socket with plugs of different standards (thicknesses) inserted into “their” holes. For example, on the left only forks with thin rods are inserted, on the right - with thick ones (Euro forks).

You should also pay attention to the location of the connecting wire inside the assembly. In some boxes it may get caught under the spacer clips on the inside of the outlet. In this case, the wire insulation will be destroyed with a possible short circuit of the current-carrying wires.

To connect sockets, it is advisable to use a monolithic wire with a cross-section of up to 2.5 mm square (for example, VVG-1 3x2.5). It is problematic to connect a thicker wire to a household outlet - it simply will not fit into the connection hole of the terminal. The VVG-2 3x2.5 wire, although its effective cross-section is the same as that of the VVG-1 3x2.5, but in reality the thickness of the current-carrying core in the VVG-2 is greater due to the gaps between the individual wires of the bundle.

The VVG 3x2.5 wire allows you to transmit up to 5 kW of power at a voltage of 220 V. Which is usually the full permissible power allocated by the RES for the average house or apartment.

Triple rosette shapes. Multiple sockets and assemblies

Linear blocks

Triangular blocks

Temporary (tees) and permanent internal

Installing triple sockets

Installing hidden triple sockets in a brick wall.

Let's look at the example of reworking electrical wiring in a new building with plastered walls.

The main stages of work on installing triple sockets

• Studying the electrical circuit
• Marking at the location of electrical points (installation locations of sockets and switches, distribution boxes)
• Grilling and laying wires
• Installation of boxes for sockets and switches
• Installation of electrical sockets, switches and other fittings.

There are several cable routing options

• Grooving along the bottom of the wall - as in the photo. This option was chosen due to the lack of a floor, so that there would be no problems when installing skirting boards.
• If there is a floor, you can lay the wires in special baseboards with built-in cable channels. This method is applicable even in residential apartments.
• If there is no special plinth, you can make a groove at the very bottom of the wall under the plinth by removing it for a while. (Also applicable in already inhabited premises.) Attention - do not damage the wire by fastening the baseboard!

Adding a new outlet to an already furnished living space.

Under the existing (preferably low-lying) outlet, use a sharp knife to cut the wallpaper. We spread them apart. We make a groove to the baseboard. We do the same in the place of the new outlet. We lay the cable along the groove and under the baseboard. We bring it to a new outlet. We plaster the groove. Glue the wallpaper (after the plaster has dried). The joint of the wallpaper is noticeable only after telling about its presence.

Installing exposed outdoor (external) wall outlets.

You can use ready-made blocks

You can use dialed external sockets.

When installing external (surface) sockets, you should pay attention to the back side of the socket.

External sockets are produced with an open back part, which will need to be covered with a special cover during installation.

External sockets with a closed rear part are also available. Such a socket can be immediately fixed to the surface.