Before you begin directly assembling the retail section, do you need to decide on the size of the future display case? the number of sections, it will be installed on a base or just stand on the floor. Then you need to make a sketch indicating all the dimensions. Then order or cut glass with polished edges yourself. The polished edge will prevent you from possible cuts during assembly and operation. The next stage is the purchase of accessories. Since you are reading this article, I think you should visit the section where you can find various types of fittings. You can always purchase all kinds of accessories on our website at a reasonable price.
There are fundamentally two different types of fittings: plastic “Chip for glass display cases” and metal with fixation “ Metal connector» four types each cross, tee, angle, thrust bearing. The brackets also come in different colors, mostly white or black, but other colors also exist. For a more convenient calculation of the required number and types of brackets, it is best to use a sketch. Next, you will need materials for the base of the stand, most often this is a podium made of chipboard with a height of 35 to 100 mm or a bedside table from 250 mm.
Of course, you can assemble the display case yourself by purchasing all the necessary materials and parts. The problem is that in addition to the time spent on ordering and assembly, you may need additional materials during the assembly process, because it is quite problematic to calculate the exact number of components for the first time. Plus, during the assembly process you can cut the glass incorrectly or accidentally break it by hitting it with a hammer. There is no catastrophe, of course, but you will have to sweat and spend a lot of time You can see an example of possible modifications of "Glass cubes" in the section and glass showcases
.You can find how to place an individual order or just ask us a question.
An example of one of our works.
In our case, these are two identical showcases. General dimensions of one display case: width 1450mm, depth 370mm, height 1780mm. in the sketch there is one showcase with 20 cells, i.e. 4 x 5 squares of which 16 pieces. 350x350mm and 4 pcs. 250x350mm. Both showcases on the podium are made of laminated chipboard 370x1450x100mm, adding 30mm to the depth (15mm on both sides) to the width of 50mm. (15mm for three brackets in the middle and approximately 35mm in half for two sides).
2) Cutting and polishing glass. Making a box. Accessories.
We take 5mm glass and cut 56 pieces. size 350x350mm and 16 pcs. size 350x250mm then sand them. It is better to make a little more glass in reserve.
The laminated chipboard box consists of 5 parts connected to each other with furniture ties + edge and American legs, 6 pieces each. to the podium.
The following number of brackets was used for one display case:
Crosspieces - 24 pcs.
Tees - 22 pcs.
Corners - 8 pcs.
Podpyatnikov - 5 pcs.
3) Assembly of display cases.
First, you need to lay out four glasses exactly in a row on a box (standing at a distance of 30-40cm from the wall), or take measurements according to the sizes of the glasses, be sure to take into account the pitch of the brackets between the glasses (approximately 5mm.) and drill the first row of brackets.
In our case we used . After the first row is screwed on, we begin assembly. First, we insert the glass into the grooves vertically, then we add brackets to the far row and, one glass at a time, falling into the grooves, we install a horizontal row of glasses (the roof of the first row). Along the way, adding the near left bracket so that the shelf is held at three points and so on. After the first row is assembled, we install the rear walls, here you need to use 3.5x30mm black self-tapping screws (included with them to securely hold the back of the bracket. Then assemble the next row in the same sequence.
Adviсe.
If the glass is tight, you can lubricate it with plain or soapy water and gently tap it with a hammer with a rubber tip. And also if the brackets are plastic, it is better to have several files of different shapes and lengths in order to file down flash and casting defects that prevent the glass from freely falling into the groove.
4) Washing the display case and moving it towards the wall, if necessary.
The display case is wiped and cleaned in the same way as regular glass: glass cleaner, then a wet cloth, then a dry one. It is best to wash the display case first, then move it to the wall.
It is best to move such a display case with three people: two on the sides simultaneously move it to the wall, and the third holds the structure, insuring it from unwanted swaying.
So, an example of one of the finished works is in the photo below.
Badges, coins, minerals, stuffed into boxes, hidden in desk drawers, are not collections at all, but Hobsen’s treasures. If anyone is happy, it is only the owner. The items that make up the collection should be accessible to the eye, complement each other, and excite the imagination. In a word, half the battle is to assemble, you also need to be able to show it. We want to talk about what solutions there may be here. First of all, in order to look more effective, it is very important to place it at the level where it is better perceived. For example, mineral samples and shells are placed in a horizontal box with a transparent top lid and backlighting from the inside. A set of tin soldiers, cast ones, a collection of antique pharmaceutical glassware or paper cars are more advantageous to display in a vertically located display case. Collection of butterflies, casts of ancient medals, coins; antique clocks are often placed in flat-bottomed glass boxes that are hung on the wall. But collections of engravings, match labels, postcards, stamps or record sleeves look good on circuit panels arranged in the form of a screen.
We make display cases for a collection of anything ourselves
We offer several such display cases. A box with lighting can be installed on a coffee table (see Fig. 1). Make the box itself using chipboard scraps, veneered or covered with synthetic film.
The exhibits are placed on frosted glass, under which fluorescent lamps are placed, and covered with transparent glass on top. Frosted glass is placed on the console, and transparent glass is inserted into the groove, which is formed by a baguette glued to the walls.
The assembly diagram is shown in Figure 2. It is more convenient to do it this way. Drill holes for wooden pins in the prepared ones. Apply glue to the parts that form the corner and insert the rods into the holes. Attach the other walls in the same way. Press them tightly together. Use a square to check if the corners are right. And fix it crosswise with two slats until the glue dries. The frame support is made in the same way. When assembling, reinforce the support bars inside the box to support the matte screen. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm in the places where the screws are installed in the bars. Secure the bars. Insert and secure with screws. Install the bottom using thin screws. It contains 3-4 fluorescent lamps with a power of 20 W and a starter. Connect the wires to them, connect the lamps to the throttle and starter and check their operation. All that remains is to cut out two rectangular glasses. Place frosted glass on the support bars above the lamps, and cover the entire structure with transparent glass.
But before assembly, do not forget to carefully finish all the parts. Sand the surfaces with sandpaper. Rub with wax or mastic, or even better, cover with 2 - 3 layers of furniture varnish, leveling each previous layer with fine sandpaper.
Another showcase will serve to display a collection of tin soldiers, car models, and other similar items.
Prepare several well 20 mm thick and 150 - 200 mm wide, a sheet of hardboard, wooden slats and two glasses - frosted and transparent, according to the dimensions indicated in the figure. Frosted glass will go on the vertical wall covering the lamps, and shelves and front sliding halves of the display case are cut out of transparent (window) glass (Figure 3).
The assembly sequence is as follows. Cut grooves in the vertical walls. It is quite difficult to perform this operation manually, so prepare a template in advance and practice on some unnecessary board. The template consists of two metal strips or corners in which grooves are cut with a width corresponding to the thickness of the shelf. Using two clamps, the templates are attached to, and with a hacksaw (the width of the teeth must correspond to the thickness of the glass), cut the recesses in the selected places.
Traditionally - on spikes. The vertical walls are fastened with screws. 3 fluorescent lamps with a power of 20 W each are installed on a hardboard board and covered with frosted glass. You can, of course, place it directly on the wall, but this will require drilling holes. And that's not so bad. When the need arises to move the display case, you will have to drill new ones and seal the old ones.
Glass shelves, like outer glass, are inserted when the display case is fixed. All that remains is to place the exhibits and install sliding windows. Remember that heavy objects can crush a glass shelf, so do not overuse it.
This stunning walnut display cabinet, taller than a man, will add classy style to any interior. As storage for hunting weapons, it would be at home in an office, and with a collection of elegant trinkets and glassware displayed on glass shelves, reflected in a mirrored backdrop, it will find a place in your living room or dining room. In any case, you can rightfully be proud that you made this beautiful piece of furniture.
- Overall dimensions: 845x416x1880 mm (width x depth x height).
- Can hold six rifles or shotguns. Or create one with glass shelves and a mirror backdrop to reflect your collection.
- Two hidden pull-out trays under the glass compartment.
- You can add low-voltage lights and a three-channel dimmer.
MASTERING THE SKILL
- Learn how to make tongue and groove joints to speed up the production of durable furniture.
- Learn how a simple plywood template can help you mark out lamella joints.
Sawing tongues and tenons
Note. Typically, in such connections, the depth of the tongues and the length of the tenons are 10 mm. Since the side frames and door of this display cabinet are subject to significant stress due to the large glass panes, we increased the length of the tongues and the depth of the tongues to 12mm to give them additional strength. To simplify and speed up production, the lid, shelf and bottom have the same design and are manufactured in the same way. And for greater accuracy and to avoid repeated adjustments, we processed all parts in which tongue and tongue joints were used one by one in one step.
1. Cut out the side posts according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” A, crossbars IN and middlemen WITH, longitudinal and transverse frame parts F, G for bottom, lid and shelf as well as rack Q, lower R, average S and top T door crossbars. Use chalk to mark each detail. Before cutting the tongues, mark the inner edges of the parts A, B, F, G, Q, R and T, as well as both edges of the parts WITH And S (Fig. 1; 1b; 2; 2a; 6 And 6a). Save some scraps of the same thickness for setting up your saw.
2. Cut out dowels in the parts in the center of the marked edges with a width corresponding to the thickness of the plywood panels. To do this, raise the groove disc to a height of 12 mm above the saw table and position the rip fence so that the disc runs in the middle of the cutting edge (this can be done by eye, without resorting to measurements). Make one pass, turn the ends 180° and make another pass. Then, gradually moving the longitudinal stop towards the disk with a minimum step, cut out dowels in the scraps, not forgetting to unfold and make a second pass, until 6 mm plywood fits tightly into them. Now you can cut out the tongues in all parts. Raise the disc to a height of 51mm and make two additional passes to deepen the tongue in the top door rail T. To ensure that all tongues are the same width, especially on long pieces, press the pieces firmly against the fence using a comb.
Having partially covered the groove disk with a wooden overlay of the longitudinal stop and using the longitudinal stop as a limiter, and the transverse stop with the overlay as a pusher, form tenons at the ends of the crossbars B, C, G, R, S, T.
3. To make short tenons on the crossbars B, C, G, R, S, T (Fig. 1; 1b; 2; 2a; 6 And 6b), Install a 16 mm thick groove disc into the saw machine, partially covering it with a wooden lining of the longitudinal stop. On a test cut, feeding it using a transverse (angular) stop, cut out a short tenon in the middle of the end, making one pass on each side, and adjust the reach of the disk so that the ridge fits snugly into the tongues of the posts. Then use a rip fence as a length stop to cut 12mm tenons at the ends of all the crossbars (photo A).
Assembly of body parts
Glue the A/B/C/D side pieces together using 51mm spacers to fit and align the top and bottom rails B. Photo shows the bottom.
1. Cut out the panels D and give them a final sanding. Dryly (without glue) connect the lower and middle crossbars B, C with two racks A to check the fit of the connections. Then, from a piece of 18 mm thick cutting, cut out two spacers 51 mm wide, the length of which is equal to the distance between the hangers of the crossbars. Now glue the sides, securing them with clamps (Fig. 1), installing spacers at the top and bottom to align the crossbars B (photo B). Make sure the assembly is square.
2. Insert a 6 mm wide rebate bit into the router collet and select the rebates for the bottom TO and top L rear walls on the inside on the rear edge of both sidewalls (Fig. 1).
After making one pass with the 6mm rabbet router, replace it with a 12mm one and remove the remaining material using the climb router method.
3. Having removed the tongue wall on the inside of the assembled sidewalls, make folds for the glass and glazing beads E. To avoid chipping, use a rebate bit with the same settings as in the previous step. Place the side panel on the workbench with the inside facing up. After making sure that the cutter bearing rests on the bottom (outer) wall of the tongue and does not touch the surface of the workbench, remove the entire inner wall of the tongue. If necessary, place scraps of boards under the sidewall to create a gap between the cutter bearing and the workbench. Having securely fixed the assembly with clamps, confidently hold the router in order to carefully remove first half of the wall with a cross-section of 6 × 12 mm using the down milling method. Then use a 12mm rebate cutter (or a smaller diameter replacement bearing) to complete the rebates. (photo C). Trim the corners with a sharp chisel.
4.
If you are making a display cabinet with shelves, mark the centers of the holes for the shelf supports as indicated on rice. 1s. With the 6mm drill bit secured in the drill press chuck, set the stop so that the drill axis is aligned with the centers of the holes. Drill holes, using additional support to support the part of the sidewall protruding beyond the edge of the drill table.
5. Cut out blanks for glazing beads E. Shorten the four side bead blanks to final length (Fig. 1), and from the remaining workpiece make the upper and lower glazing beads. Drill through holes in the glazing beads using a thin finishing nail with a broken head instead of a drill. Finish sand the glazing beads.
6. Cut out the panels N for the lid, shelf and bottom according to the specified dimensions and finally sand them. Pre-test the fit by dry assembly, and then glue three identical panel panels together F/G/H (Fig. 2). Make sure the glue is square.
Using clamps, secure the plywood template to the assembled sidewall, move the lamellar router towards it, align the central marks and mill out the slots.
7. Make a template from 19mm plywood (Fig. 1a) for positioning the lamellar router when selecting nests in the sidewalls and marking the same nests on the edges of the lid, shelf and bottom. Mill out the slots for attaching the bottom and shelf (Fig. 1, photoD). Then fix the edge of the template at a distance of 70 mm from the top of the posts A and make nests for the lid. Finish sand the sidewalls without touching the edges of the front pillars, so that later there are no gaps between them and the front frame.
8. Using the template, mark the centers of the nests on the edges of the lid, shelf and bottom. Adjust the stop of the lamellar router so that the nests are located in the middle of the thickness of the parts. Mill out the sockets (Fig. 2). Finish sand the frame parts. To ensure they fit tightly with other body parts, do not sand their edges.
Case manufacturing
1. Glue the bottom and shelf to one of the sides by inserting the slats into the slots (photo E), secure with clamps and wait for the glue to dry. Then glue the cover in place (photoF) and also dry the glue well. Now add the second side panel (photoG).
Using the plywood template as both a spacer and a mounting square, glue the bottom and shelf to one of the side panels, not forgetting to insert the slats into the slots.
Move the template to the top of the side and, after inserting the slats, glue the lid in place.
2. Cut out the posts of the façade frame I, and on the crossbars] leave an allowance of 25 mm along the length. Dry try on the pieces to determine the final crossbar size. (photo N), and saw them to length.
Place the template between the bottom and the shelf to ensure the assembly is perpendicular, and glue the second side panel in place, inserting the slats and securing with clamps.
Press one post I to the body with clamps, attach the end of the crossbar blank J to it, install the second post I in place and mark the final length of the crossbar.
3.
Mill out the slots for the slats in the leading edges of the A-pillars A (Fig. 1) and the same sockets on the back side of the façade frame racks I (Fig. 3). Then make nests on the inner edges of the racks and the ends of the crossbars of the façade frame J.
4. Glue, inserting the slats into the slots, one façade stand I to the side stand A, then add crossbars J and finally, the second façade pillar (photo I). Secure the gluing with clamps.
Using flat dowels, glue the crossbar J to the second post I. Then glue these parts to the first post I and the side post A, also using slats.
5. To mill partial fillets (fillets) along the outer edges of the façade mullions I (Fig. 4), First, prepare four stoppers 108 mm long from scraps. Use clamps to attach the stoppers to the upper and lower ends of the side posts A and mill the fillets (photoJ). To avoid burns and chips, mill each fillet in two passes. After this, finally sand the façade frame.
Make partial fillets with a radius of 10 mm along the edge of each post I. At the beginning and end of the pass, the cutter bearing should rest against the stopper.
6. Cut out the bottom TO and top L back walls (Fig. 4) and polish them completely.
Add a plinth and cornice
1. Cut out the base blank M. Mill along the top edge a rounding with a radius of 10 mm with a ledge (the so-called “nail”) (Fig. 4a).
2. To make the texture pattern on the plinth parts surrounding the case look continuous, cut out a piece for the front board from the middle of the workpiece. Its length should be 50 mm greater than the width of the body. File a bevel on one end of the front board, as well as on the front ends of both side boards. Mark the exact length of the front board (photo K) and file the second bevel. Then mark the length of the side plinth boards (photoL) and file their back ends to the final length.
Align the heel of the bevel of the front plinth board with the outer corner of the post I of the façade frame. Mark the heel of the bevel at the other end of the plinth board.
With the front plinth board in place, attach the side plinth piece to it and secure both pieces with masking tape. Mark the length of the side board along the rear side post A.
3. Mark the arc-shaped cutout on the front plinth board (Fig. 4), cut it out with a band saw or jigsaw and sand it down to the contour line. Then finish sanding the front and side plinth boards and glue them to the body, securing them with clamps.
4.
Cut out blanks for the frieze N, cornice ABOUT and kalevki R. Route a 6mm fillet on the frieze blank and a 10mm fillet on the cornice blank (Fig. 4b). Make a 3 mm deep cut on the front side of the workpiece for molding and file a bevel along the bottom edge. Then make it in blanks N and P shallow cuts that serve as traps for excess glue. Finish sand each piece and then glue them together, securing them with clamps. (Fig. 5, photo M And N).
Working on a flat surface, glue and clamp Frieze Board N to Curtain Board O, lining up the backs and ends of both pieces.
When the blanks N, O glued together have dried, glue the decorative molded profile P in place.
5. From the middle of the gluing, cut out a piece for the front part of the cornice, the length of which should be equal to the width of the body with an allowance of 102 mm. Then, just as when making a plinth, file the bevels, try on, mark and file the parts to the final length. Glue the cornice to the body, pressing the parts with clamps (Fig. 4).
Assemble the door
1. Take the door parts again Q, R, S and T. Using a flexible pattern, mark on the top crossbar T arc. Cut out the arc with a band saw or jigsaw and sand smooth.
2. Cut out the panel U and sand it down. Dry assemble the door to check the fit of all parts. (Fig. 6). Then glue the door, securing it with clamps, and make sure it is square.
Using a thin sliver or small brush, apply glue deep into the tongues of the Q post and the top rail T, then insert the triangular gusset V.
3. To strengthen the thin walls of the deep tongue at the bottom of the top beam T and strengthen the connections between it and the racks Q, cut out triangular gusset inserts from 6mm plywood V shown on rice. 6, and glue them in place (photo O).
4. Using the router by hand, make 6mm offset fillets (“nails”) along the outer front edges of the door. (Fig. 6 And 6b). Then install the rebate bit into the collet and select 10mm rebates on the outer edges on the back side (Fig. 6 And 6c).
Sand the curves on the top ends of both side beads E according to the radius of the top corners of the folds.
5. For installing glass and glazing beads E remove by milling the inner wall of the tongue only on the posts Q and middle crossbar S (Fig. 6), using the same techniques as in the manufacture of sidewalls. Start and end the router cut at the top rail joints. T with stands Q. Use a chisel to trim the corners only at the bottom of the fold. Cut the glazing beads to the required length and sand their upper ends in accordance with the upper roundings of the rebate (photo R). Using a finishing nail with a bitten head, drill holes in the glazing beads and then sand.
6. Clamp a 5mm drill bit into the drill chuck and drill a mounting hole for the knob handle. Then use a 19mm Forstner drill bit to make a hole for the post lock cylinder. (You can skip the lock if you're making a display cabinet to store items that aren't too valuable or dangerous.) With the cabinet front facing up, position the hinges on the stand I façade frame (Fig. 4), Drill pilot holes and secure the hinges with screws. Place the door on the body and secure it. Working from inside the cabinet, drill pilot holes in the door post Q. Remove the door and remove the hinges from the frame. Finish sand the door.
Make two pull out trays
1. Cut out the front and back walls from 18 mm boards W, and from 12 mm - side walls X. We used poplar wood. Then to form the connections (Fig. 7 And 7a), follow the three step procedure (Fig. 8). Cut out the tongues to insert the bottom Y.
2. Saw out the bottom Y for each of the trays. Dry assemble the trays to check the fit of the parts. Take them apart and sand the bottom, as well as the inside of all the walls. W, X. Glue the trays together and make sure they are square. Once the glue is dry, sand the outside of the trays.
3.
Cut out the supporting strips Z for retractable guides. Glue two of them to the side posts A and facade frame I to the inner front corners of the body (Fig. 9). At the rear of the chassis, position the support bars so that they line up with the last mounting hole in the ball slides. Glue the rear support strips to the rear side pillars, securing them with clamps.
Make parts for a rifle rack
Note. If you are making a regular display cabinet, skip straight to the next section, “Finishing the cabinet and installing glass.”
1. Glue a wide base blank AA from 18 mm boards and sawn to the specified dimensions. Mark the centers of the 50mm holes (Fig. 10). Clamp a Forstner bit into the drill chuck and drill the holes. Connect the edges of the holes with tangent lines and make cuts with a jigsaw. Sand the edges of the cutouts smoothly with a sanding drum. Mill roundings with a radius of 6 mm around the perimeter of the cutouts on the top side. Then install another cutter and make a fillet with a radius of 10 mm at the leading edge of the base. Now install the groove disk in the saw machine, adjust its overhang in accordance with the recess for the panel H in the shelf and cut the folds along the ends and rear edge. Finish sand the finished base.
2. For the top comb BB holding the gun barrels, cut out a workpiece measuring 18x76x800 mm. Mark hole centers (Fig. 10), Insert a 38mm Forstner drill bit into the drill chuck and make holes. File the piece to final length at both ends. To turn holes into cutouts, draw two tangent lines from each hole to the leading edge, make the cuts with a jigsaw or bandsaw, and then carefully sand the edges of the cutouts using a small sanding drum. Mill fillets with a radius of 6 mm at the top and bottom. Finish sand the top comb.
Body finishing and glass installation
1. Carefully inspect all parts and additionally sand the areas that need it. Apply a clear finish. (We used an oil-varnish polish, which was applied three times using a swab method. Read more about this in the article "Guaranteed Flawless Finish.")
2.
Order glass for the door and sides from a specialized workshop (Fig. 1 And 6).
For a regular display cabinet, you will also need glass shelves and a mirror backdrop (Fig. 4c). We asked for the edges of the shelves to be rounded and polished, as well as the sharp edges of the mirror to be processed.
3. Lay the body on its side with a soft backing, insert the glass and nail the glazing beads into place (photo Q). Turn the case over to the other side and insert the glass into the second side.
Protect the glass with a piece of thick cardboard and drive nails into the guide holes of bead E. The head of the hammer should slide across the cardboard.
4. Place the door upside down on a soft pad. Place the glass into the folds by sliding its top edge under the protruding corners into the tongue of the top crossbar T. Secure the glazing beads E small nails.
Showcase assembly
1. When making a gun display, install the base in place AA gun rack. Drill holes from the bottom through the frame parts G and secure the base to the shelf with screws (Fig. 4). For screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm, the diameters of the mounting and guide holes should be 4 and 2.8 mm, respectively.
2. Separate the slide-out guides into pieces. Attach the body parts to the supporting strips with screws Z (Fig. 9), and box ones - to pull-out trays (Fig. 7). Slide the trays into the chassis.
3. Replace the bottom TO and top L the rear walls, securing them with clamps. Drill holes for the screws and, if you are making a gun display, screw in the screws. For a regular display case, after drilling holes, mark the position of the top edge of the back part of the shelf F on the inside of the top wall. Secure the bottom wall into place with screws. Remove the top back panel and place it on a flat surface with the inside facing up. Glue the mirror to it using a special adhesive sealant. Align the side indents and align the bottom edge of the mirror with the marked line of the shelf. Once the glue has cured, use screws to attach the top back wall to the body.
4. To install the barrel comb BB First prepare a pair of spacers 895 mm long. Then place one end of each spacer on the base AA. Apply a strip of double-sided tape to the back of the barrel comb, place the part on the upper ends of the spacers and press it against the upper rear wall L. Drill guide holes on the back side and attach the comb to the back wall by screwing in the screws (Fig. 4).
5. To install lights inside the display cabinet, drill in the lid N through holes with a diameter of 19 mm (Fig. 11) and screw the lights into place. Connect the dimmer and connect the wires according to the instructions. Remove the protective film from the adhesive layer on the back of the dimmer and stick it to the back of the top rear wall L at its edge. (Later, when installing the case in the selected location against the wall, leave enough clearance between it and the wall for your fingers.)
6. Attach the hinges to the body with screws and replace the door. Glue silicone dampers (usually included with hinges) into the fold on the opposite edge of the door opposite each hinge. (Fig. 6). Install a button handle and a lock (it is not necessary for a regular display cabinet).
7. Finally, insert the shelf holders into the holes in the side panels (Fig. 4c). Now you can install the glass shelves.
The glass showcase is relevant both for the trade and exhibition hall in the store and for home use. This glass cabinet creates an ideal view for small items that need an overview (for example, when displaying your own collection). Assembling a glass display case with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. From the very beginning, you need to decide what the dimensions of the future display case will be, whether it will stand on the floor or whether you need to hang it. Also, do not forget about preparing all the necessary materials.
Typology of glass showcases
Before you begin installation, you need to decide what it will look like. Depending on their purpose, glass showcases are divided into the following types:
Island showcases;
showcases-columns;
rotating display cases;
corner showcases;
illuminated display cases;
wall structures.
The choice depends on what products will be displayed in the glass showcase. For perfumes, cosmetics, mobile phones and other miniature equipment, wall-mounted structures such as glass cubes will be optimal.
When you need to present products in a favorable light, illuminated display cases are used. Such designs are most relevant for the jewelry trade.
Corner display cases save space. Due to their location in the corners of the hall, they do not take up extra space, and there is more than enough space in them to lay out any required amount of goods.
Glass display cases built like columns will allow you to evaluate products from any position that is most beneficial for the seller. An island showcase can be installed on any elevation and is used to add originality to the sales area. Rotating models are a special type of design that allows customers to rotate the glass display case around its axis.
Advantages of a glass showcase
A sales showcase made of glass differs from others in the following advantages:
The simplicity of the design does not detract attention from the product, presenting the product in the most favorable light;
installation is possible in any room;
when using tempered glass, the structure will last for several years without losing its attractive appearance;
Ease of use.
Let's start assembling the display case
The showcase is not a cast structure, so it is assembled from several components. In any case, a frame is used that will hold the finished structure. These can be either aluminum profiles or plastic corners that firmly fix the glass. Before you begin assembling the structure, you need to create a sketch that will clearly show how many parts will be needed during assembly.
When assembling, you will need not only fittings and glass, you also need to stock up on silicone glue, which will hold the glass panel in the connector, as well as a protractor, which will be needed to align the entire structure.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a glass display case
The glass cube type design is the most common option for a retail space. To assemble it, you must follow the following steps:
To begin with, a sketch is prepared. Based on the finished sketch, it will be possible not only to focus on the number of parts, but also on the dimensions of the finished structure. When assembling, it is best to use a frame and connectors. If necessary, they can be easily replaced with new ones.
Using a connector, you need to connect a pair of equal pieces of glass by simply inserting them into the gaps.
After this, the angle between the installed glasses must be measured. In this case, a protractor will come in handy to help determine how evenly the glass is installed. If successful, the angle will be 90 degrees. If necessary, the glass is leveled.
For strong fixation, glue is used (it is optimal to use silicone).
After applying the glue, you must wait at least a couple of hours for the glue to dry properly. Next, similar steps should be performed until the structure grows to the required size. Each time, the junction of the glass and the profile should be firmly fixed with glue. It will add strength and reliability to the entire structure, making it almost all-glass.
If desired, at this stage, individual sections are finished with doors and LED strips.
In order for the structure to have a finished look, it is necessary to use bases. When choosing a material, it is important that the base is in harmony with the entire finished structure. We recommend using polycarbonate or chipboard sheets. These are flexible and easy-to-process materials. Regardless of the final choice, the base needs sanding and painting.
The choice of color depends on the color scheme of the sales area, but you can also use standard black, which is not for nothing considered universal (it is optimal for any atmosphere).
To provide greater stability, the base should be wider than the finished display case. It must be installed directly in the center. The structure itself is first generously lubricated with glue to provide stability.
Provided that all recommendations are followed, you get a display case with good resistance to physical and mechanical stress at minimal cost. If desired, the doors can be tightly closed, so all goods or exhibits will be under reliable protection.