Technology for installing siding on wooden houses. Finishing siding on a wooden house: pros, cons and installation recommendations. To work you will need

Firstly, fasteners are installed into the wall without pre-drilling, since the wood allows this to be done. Secondly, bars can be installed on a wooden wall as sheathing for siding, which greatly simplifies the process if the walls are quite flat. Otherwise, it is preferable to use a 60*27 metal profile mounted on direct hangers as a supporting frame.

Which siding is best to use for self-installation?

The correct choice of siding for self-installation can greatly facilitate the entire process, since installing metal siding is much easier than correctly covering your house with the vinyl version of this material.
The main problems that arise when installing vinyl cladding are the need to install corner strips, starting strips and near window trims, without which it is simply impossible to carry out installation.
In the case of metal siding, there is no need to install corner elements and window slopes at the initial stage; they can be installed after the entire house is sheathed. Moreover, it is much easier to install metal elements, for the reason that there is no need to maintain clearances for thermal expansion.
Vinyl siding is very picky about gaps and if they are neglected, then in the end all the work can go down the drain. In the summer heat, vinyl siding will simply swell, which will ruin the appearance for which it is installed. Finishing with this material always risks resulting in vinyl waves and bubbles instead of a beautiful appearance.

Technology

At its core, the technology for cladding a wooden house with siding is no different from how houses made of brick or aerated concrete are sheathed and includes the following main steps:

1. Preparatory stage;
2. Installation of vapor barrier;
3. Laying insulation;
4. Frame marking;
5. Installation of hangers, if a metal frame is used as a sheathing;
6. Installation and alignment of profiles;
7. Siding fastening;
8. Installation of additional structural elements (metal corners, ebbs and slopes).

Now we will consider each of the stages in more detail, we will try to take into account all the small nuances and give practical advice on how to properly carry out the work on a wooden house.

Preparation

The preparation stage consists in the fact that it is necessary to free and clean the walls of the house as much as possible from various kinds of decorative elements. For example, these are window frames, old flashings, protection of corners (if the house is made of logs). And also at this stage, you should inspect the surface of the walls for defects and eliminate all existing ones. It is necessary to remove the beginnings of rot and foam the places where there is not enough inter-crown insulation. This will not harm the house in any way, but will only increase its service life.

Important: if you pre-treat areas with beginnings of rotting with special antiseptic solutions, you can stop the rotting process and save the log from destruction.

It is very important to carry out work to prevent corrosion at this stage, because after the siding is installed on a wooden house, there will no longer be access to the walls.

Attaching the vapor barrier

When installing siding, it is most convenient to use rolled vapor barrier. To attach it to a wooden wall, it is better to use a construction stapler with 10 mm staples. The installation of each strip should begin at the top and gradually move down. The overlap of the strips must exactly correspond to the dotted lines on the material. You can cut the vapor barrier using a utility knife.

Laying insulation

If sheet material is used, for example, extruded polystyrene foam, then it is fastened immediately after the vapor barrier is installed. In cases where roll insulation is used, it is laid later, after the hangers are installed.

Important: when insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam, vapor barrier is not used, since the foam is applied directly to the wall after the hangers for attaching the frame are installed. Waterproofing is also not required, since polyurethane foam is resistant to moisture.

To attach sheet insulation to a wooden wall, you can use wood self-tapping screws (WG) with a length of at least 70 mm. Ordinary nails of the same length will also work well. To prevent the heads of the screws or nails from slipping inside the insulation, you can put pieces of a hanger cut into pieces for attaching the metal profile onto the screws. A length of 1-2 cm is sufficient.

Frame marking

In order to avoid problems with attaching profiles in the future, when marking, you should take into account several basic rules:

• The sheathing pitch for siding should not exceed 60 cm. Less is possible and in some cases it is even recommended. For example, when making a frame for vinyl siding;
• It is imperative that the frame profiles be installed 5–10 cm from the corner, regardless of whether it is an external or internal corner;
• Frame elements are installed on all sides of windows and doors, at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the edge;
• Suspensions for fastening metal profiles, installed in increments of 40–50 cm;
• The number of hangers holding one structural element should not be less than three;
• The frame elements are installed strictly vertically, and horizontal jumpers are made above and below the window, which are necessary in order to subsequently secure the window trim elements.

Knowing how to make the correct markup, there should be no problems with it.

Attaching hangers

To attach the hangers, wood screws (WG) are used. If the hangers are installed after the sheet insulation is installed, then the length of the screws should be at least 70–80 mm. Without insulation, 25–30 mm is enough.

First, the lower and upper suspensions are attached, after which the rest are evenly distributed. After the first row of hangers is installed, you can fasten them in any order, maintaining the horizontal position of two horizontally adjacent products. After installation, the hangers must be bent into their working position. Before attaching each subsequent suspension, you need to make sure that the previous one is fixed securely enough.

Installation and alignment of profiles

When starting to install the profile, you must remember that you first need to align and secure the corner elements of the frame, and then proceed to installing the middle ones. If the height of the wall is less than 2.5 meters, the profile must be shortened. This can be done using metal scissors, but for large volumes of work, it is more convenient to cut the profile in a bundle. To do this, use a “grinder” with a metal circle with a diameter of at least 180 mm.

To fasten the profile, use self-tapping screws with a press washer 13 mm long.

Advice: do not believe sellers who will offer you to buy self-tapping screws with a drill, because working with them is very inconvenient. Buy sharp ones; they twist easily and easily.

It is necessary to level the vertical position of the profile using a building level. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a level with a magnet. After the outer profiles are set, construction lace is stretched between them in three places. This is necessary in order to speed up the process of installing profiles, controlling their vertical position along the tensioned threads.

Above the window you need to make a jumper between adjacent profiles. If the window width is more than one meter, additional hangers are installed on the lintel, which will prevent it from being pushed through when installing the siding.
Correctly installed frame elements should form a single plane. You can check this by applying a long rule to the frame, which should cover at least three adjacent profiles; if the rule is pressed tightly against all three elements, everything is done correctly and the siding will lie without any problems. Otherwise, the structure must be straightened until the rule fits snugly.

Siding Installation

The penultimate stage of work is the actual installation of siding on the house with your own hands. It is necessary to install siding with a partner, since it is extremely difficult for one person to do this. All types of siding are fastened with sharp 13 mm PN self-tapping screws.

Direct installation of siding begins with installing the starting strip and leveling it horizontally. Metal siding can be installed without using a starting profile; to do this, the first strip is aligned horizontally and its upper part is secured. Then, using 13 mm PN self-tapping screws, I fix the lower part of the siding strip into each profile. This method leaves the bottom row of screws visible; in order to hide them and securely fasten the siding, you cannot do without a starting strip.

Each subsequent strip of material is inserted with its lower part into the groove of the previous one, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile through a special perforation in the upper part of the strip.
When installing siding, it is necessary to control the horizontal position of each strip, because if this moment is missed, then you can “overwhelm” the structure and have to disassemble it and start all over again.
Windows can be cut either on site, having previously marked them, or during installation, adjusting each strip to the required dimensions. The upper strips, if necessary, are cut lengthwise and then a metal corner is installed at the junction of the wall with the cornice, which will cover the cut site.

Installation of additional elements

Lastly, the corners covering the corners of the house, ebbs and near the window trims are installed. They can be fastened through and through using metal screws that match the color. Flashings and window metal strips are usually made to order. If you do not have experience installing these elements, then it is better to entrust the work to someone who knows how it is done.
The reason is that when installing ebb and flow, the prepared parts are cut to size in such a way as to prevent water flowing down the siding during rain from getting under the sheathing. Doing this without some experience is quite difficult and you can easily ruin expensive workpieces.

Video

You can learn more about how to install siding on a wooden house by watching the video below. In it, the master talks about the main stages of installation and shows what fasteners he uses when carrying out the work.

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Of the huge variety of finishing wall materials, siding stands out for its simplicity of operations in terms of its installation on facades. Regardless of the raw materials from which this material is made, installing siding with your own hands is a real process because it is universal. That is, whether it is vinyl siding, metal, wood or fiber cement mortar, it is mounted on the sheathing. So the most important thing is to correctly install the frame structure on the wall.

There are several options, a regular hacksaw, a circular saw, hand scissors and a sharp knife.

If you are using a circular saw, make sure the blade has fine teeth. If you are cutting vinyl siding, the saw needs to be set in the opposite direction; any other type of siding can only be cut in the forward direction. Using scissors, you can cut out elements of any shape and size. It is best to carry out cutting with safety glasses and start cutting from the fastening part upwards.

Frame for siding

The frame can be assembled either from wooden blocks or from a metal profile, which is used to install plasterboard sheets. Today, some siding manufacturers offer ready-made frame elements that are sold complete with cladding.

The question of which frame is better: wooden or metal is asked by many novice home craftsmen.

Installation of sheathing

Before installing the sheathing to the wall, you need to prepare it.

Wall insulation

For a facade that is covered with siding, it is best to use slab thermal insulation material. This is mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The main thing is to accurately select the insulation thickness. For central Russia, a thermal insulation layer thickness of 50-60 mm is suitable. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards are sold at this thickness.

If a house is insulated and covered with siding in the northern region, then the thermal insulation layer must be at least 100 mm. And here there is a difficulty, because the antennae of direct suspensions have a mounting length of 80 mm. That is, the insulation is thicker. In this case, proceed as follows:

• wooden blocks with a cross section of 50x50 mm are installed vertically on the walls along the marked lines, which are not aligned vertically;
• and then direct hangers are installed on them and attached to them with wood screws.

There is a simpler and better option - a short block of the same cross-section is installed under each suspension, which is pre-attached to the wall. And already there is a suspension for it. This is how the distance from the cladding to the wall surface increases, where an insulating layer with a thickness of even 130 mm will fit.

As for installing the insulation, through cuts are made in each slab with a knife so that the antennae of the hangers can squeeze through them. Therefore, it is very important to accurately determine the locations of the cuts.

Attention! You cannot make large holes for direct hangers. This will reduce both the strength and thermal characteristics of the insulation.

The slabs themselves must be laid tightly to each other so that gaps do not form between them. If any gaps still remain, they must be filled with foam sealant. This is foam in a can, but not mounting foam. It does not expand in volume in air.

Continuation of frame assembly

A profile is mounted in one corner of the facade. It is leveled vertically using a level and attached to the suspension antennae with special self-tapping screws, which craftsmen call bugs or seeds. Now four or five strong threads are tied to the profile, which are pulled to the opposite corner of the house. Here, each thread is aligned horizontally, having previously been attached to a self-tapping screw screwed into the wall. That is, the threads should form a plane that is even both vertically and horizontally.

First, a corner profile is installed along them, attaching it to the hangers, then the rest are intermediate. Be sure to install profiles around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Siding assembly

Do-it-yourself siding installation continues. We move on to the last stage - cladding. Despite the apparent simplicity of the process, there are several important nuances that affect the quality of the final result. Therefore, we need to pay special attention to them.

Installing the starting guide bars

This cladding element must be installed perfectly horizontally. Therefore, a self-tapping screw is temporarily screwed onto the corner rail, at a distance of 5 mm from its lower edge. A strong thread is tied to it, which is pulled to the opposite corner of the building. Place it horizontally and at this level, on the corner profile, also screw in a self-tapping screw, to which the free end of the thread is tied.

Attention!If all the facade walls of the house are covered with siding, then all the self-tapping screws screwed into the corner elements of the sheathing are tied with one thread around the perimeter.

Now you need to attach the corner profile of the siding to the corner of the house and mark their edges on the frame according to the level of the tensioned thread. Marks are made with a pencil or marker.

Next, you need to retreat 6 mm horizontally from the edge of the corner profile, install the starting strip below the thread, but with its upper edge exactly along it, and fasten it to the sheathing elements. Then the remaining thread guides are installed. The main thing is to leave a gap of 1 cm between adjacent planks, which is compensatory. That is, it allows plastic products to expand under the influence of rising temperatures without coming into contact with each other.

There is another option, in which the gap between the corner profile and the starting strip is formed by cutting off the nail (mounting) shelves. In which holes are made for fastening. They are simply cut to the width of the starting profile, and the latter is installed closer to the corner elements, but with a gap equal to the width of the mounting shelf.

Installation of corner profile

There are no difficulties here, you just need to pay attention to two important points:

1. The lower edge of the corner strip should be 5-6 mm below the starting profile.
2. The top edge should not reach the soffits or other cornice cladding by 3-4 mm.

And so the corner profile is applied to the corner of the building and fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing of two walls. The main thing is to align the corner exactly vertically.

The standard length of the corner strips is 3 m. If the height of the wall is higher than this parameter, then you will have to install two or three elements. They are installed overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 2.5-3.0 cm. The top one is laid on top of the bottom one. In this case, the mounting flanges of the upper element are cut to a length of 3 cm. Be sure to leave a compensation gap of 8-10 mm between the mounting flanges of the two planks.

If the house structure has internal façade corners, then special corner profiles are used for them. Their installation is carried out in exactly the same way as external corners.

How to get around windows and doors - breaking off doorways

There shouldn't be any difficulties with openings. To decorate them, they use either special platbands, which many siding manufacturers offer today, or starting profiles. Their length is 3 m, so that with one element you can close both the window and door opening. That is, there is no need to connect anything to each other.

The side elements are aligned vertically, the top and bottom horizontally. The main thing is that the top plank should overlap the side ones so that precipitation does not flood under the cladding.

If windows and doors are not located in the same plane of the wall, that is, they are recessed into the facade, then a special corner element is used to frame them. That's what it's called - window. To do this, a finishing profile is installed around the perimeter of the window close to the frames. The tenon of the corner element will be inserted into its groove. And the corner itself is attached with self-tapping screws to the metal frame profiles that were installed around the perimeter of the opening.

Let us add that the width of the corner shelves on the market is represented by several dimensional parameters. This is done to make it convenient to select an element depending on the seating depth of the window or door.

Siding installation step by step instructions

Installing siding with your own hands is the simplest process of all those described above. You need to start from the corner of the house. The panel is inserted with the side edge into the corner element, and the bottom into the starting strip. Don't be lazy to check it for horizontalness.

Fastening is done with self-tapping screws along the sheathing elements. The length of the siding varies in the range of 2.5-4 m, so one panel may not cover the length of the wall. Therefore, they are joined together with a special profile. It is called the H-profile. Its design has two grooves on different sides, into which two adjacent siding panels fit. The H-profile itself is attached to the frame in the same way as the corner one. By the way, its installation is carried out before the installation of siding panels begins.

In this way, all rows are assembled to the last. In this case, every third row must be checked for horizontalness.

Now, regarding the installation of the last row. Firstly, a finishing J-profile is installed near the roof overhang cladding with an indentation of 3 mm. Secondly, the distance from it to the edge of the penultimate siding panel is measured. It’s good if this distance is equal to the width of the siding. That is, the panel fit exactly, covering the free space of the wall. If the size is smaller than the width of the panel, then it is transferred to the siding, the upper part with the mounting shelf is cut to this value.

So-called hooks are made along the upper trimmed edge. Essentially, these are cuts across the length of the panel, 2-3 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. The pitch of the hooks is 20 cm. The cut strips are bent outward. Their purpose is to fit into the groove of the finishing strip and push it apart to create a tight connection.

Installation of the pediment

We follow the analogy of installing wall panels, taking into account the margins from the edge of 9 mm in warm weather and 6 mm in cold weather. installation is carried out around the perimeter, all fasteners are installed in the center of the holes. We attach the last upper element at the top of the hole. For cladding, we will use an internal profile or a starter profile.

Take them into account and strictly adhere to them.

1. It is best to lay siding from left to right, from bottom to top.
2. The self-tapping screws are screwed in strictly in the middle of the mounting groove perpendicular to the sheathing elements.
3. Do not tighten the fasteners too much. It is necessary to leave a small gap in case of thermal expansion of the material.
4. If nails are used as fasteners rather than self-tapping screws, then you need to purchase galvanized fasteners.
5. Fiber cement siding is attached to the frame with clamps.
6. If a wooden frame is finished with siding, then you need to give time (at least six months) for the house to shrink.

Video - instructions for installing siding yourself

Conclusion on the topic

So, installing siding with your own hands (the step-by-step instructions are discussed in detail) is not the most difficult process in the facade finishing category. The main task is to correctly assemble the frame structure and strictly adhere to the nuances that were discussed above. If you follow the proposed instructions, you can be confident in the high quality of the final result.

To get an attractive, reliable and inexpensive finishing option, you should choose to install siding yourself on a wooden house. This material is available in different colors and textures, among which everyone can find their own option.

Before covering a wooden house with siding, it is worth studying basic information about the types of material. The following brief description can be given:

• plastic siding is the cheapest, most practical, but is afraid of mechanical stress;
• metal - strong and durable, but needs protection from rust (does not apply to aluminum);
• wooden - fits perfectly into the properties of a wooden house and will be the best option, but buyers may be put off by the price;
• fiber cement - not so popular, not flammable, durable, but difficult to install and has a large mass.

Next, you need to select the sheathing material. It can be made of wood or light metal profile. Installing metal sheathing is easier on uneven ground. Such a frame will be strong and reliable.

But covering a wooden house with siding on a wooden frame yourself will cost less. You also don’t have to worry about protecting the wall and sheathing at the points of contact with the element, since they are made of material with similar properties. When purchasing and selecting wood for sheathing, it is important to ensure that the wood is:

• without delaminations;
• without deformation;
• without bluish spots or signs of rot.

Before starting work, the wooden sheathing is impregnated with fire retardants and antiseptics. The former increase resistance to fire, and the latter to mold and mildew.

Preparing the base

Before you cover a wooden house with siding yourself, you will need to carefully inspect the wall. You need to check its strength and absence of severe damage. Next, you need to remove the old finish, which may interfere with the installation of the new finishing material. The base is cleaned of dirt and dust.

Frame installation

Finishing a wooden house begins with the installation of guides. The vast majority of siding requires the sheathing to be mounted vertically. Its pitch is selected depending on the insulation. The clear distance between the guides should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool. For polystyrene, the distance is selected exactly to match the width.

To make wooden sheathing, bars measuring 40x40 mm or 50x80 mm are most often taken. When using the metal version, you will need a set of special profiles of different sections.

The frame slats are installed in increments of 40 cm, incl. around openings. There should not be any slats at the very bottom

Nails or self-tapping screws are used to attach the frame to a wooden wall. The former must have an anti-corrosion coating made of zinc or aluminum.
Before fastening the sheathing with a construction stele, a vapor barrier is installed. To do this, you can use regular plastic film, but it is better to buy a special vapor barrier membrane. The choice of materials in a wooden house should be taken extremely responsibly. It is not recommended to use those that will block the movement of air through the walls. For this reason, membrane is better than film.

When finishing a wooden house with siding, the vapor barrier is attached with an overlap of 10 cm. Before starting work, it is recommended to read the manufacturer’s instructions. Next, the guides are attached at the required increments, starting installation from the corners. Levelness is checked using a building level.

Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides. It is better if it is mineral wool - due to its good air permeability. A layer of waterproofing and wind protection needs to be fixed on top of the wool. The best option would be modern vapor diffusion (not to be confused with vapor barrier) windproof membranes.

Securing the starting J-profile

Cladding a house with siding with your own hands at the next stage involves the following procedure:

1. Finding the lowest point on the sheathing using a level. It is necessary to measure 50 cm upward from this point and mark this point (for example, with a loosely screwed screw).
2. Sequential marking of lines with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the building.
3. Pull the cord at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom along the screws.
4. Marking the location of corner profiles on slats. The profile is laid to the corner, its edges are marked.
5. Fixing the first starting profile along a rope with a gap of 6 mm from the future border of the corner profile.
6. Fastening the remaining starting strips with a gap between adjacent ones equal to 10-12 mm for thermal expansion.
7. Checking the level of the starting bars.

Installation of the starting profile

The profile must be mounted perfectly straight. If there are deviations at this stage, the entire siding of the wooden house will be distorted.

Corner profiles

Before you attach the siding, you will need to install the corner strips. They can be for external and internal corners. The first ones are mounted in this order:

1. Marking the location of the edges of the spotlights.
2. Attaching the guide to the corner of the building. There should be a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit (roof). The lower border of the profile is located 6 mm below the border of the starting profile. The bar is secured with self-tapping screws in the upper part.
3. Check verticality using a building level or plumb line. Adjust the location if necessary. Fastening the bottom and middle with self-tapping screws. Fasteners do not need to be provided too often.

Installation of corner profile

If it is necessary to join the profile in height, the joining place is located at the same level in all corners of the building. The joining is done with an overlap. The part with holes for fastening the top panel is cut so that there is a gap of 9 mm between it and the same part of the bottom panel. Instead of a corner profile, when installing siding on a wooden house, you are allowed to use two starter ones.

Step-by-step instructions for installing profiles for internal corners look almost the same. But in this case, other strips are used.

Options for interior corner solutions

Opening frames

When securing the siding with your own hands with insulation, you may encounter difficulties at this stage of the work. The fastening in this case depends on how the opening is located relative to the plane of the outer wall: flush or recessed.

Waterproofing is required around windows

In case of flush openings, the façade should be finished in the following order:

1. Performing waterproofing of openings.
2. Fastening trims or J-type profiles. For each opening you need to use 4 platbands: 2 horizontal and 2 vertical.
3. The profiles are connected to each other. A bridge cut is made on each side of the upper profile. They are bent down to divert precipitation into the lower profile. Areas of material on the vertical strips that prevent connection with the upper ones should be removed. The side and top profiles are connected so that the bridges are inside.
4. The operations are repeated with the lower casing. But in this case the bridges are cut in the side elements.

To work with recessed openings, you need to follow the same recommendations as in the previous case. The differences lie in the use of profiles of different shapes.

Installing the first panel

Work should begin on the side of the building that is least noticeable. In this case, there is an opportunity to practice and get better. The first panel is first inserted into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting one, snapped into place. A 6 mm gap must be left between the bottom of the lock and the first siding element to compensate for thermal expansion.

Correct fastening of slats

The next step is to fix the first cladding strip to the sheathing. Self-tapping screws are used for this. The siding has elongated holes for fasteners; the self-tapping screw must be placed in the middle of this hole. All fasteners are placed strictly perpendicular to the wall surface. The screws do not tighten too much; this is necessary to prevent deformation and damage due to thermal expansion.

Installation of remaining panels

Finishing with siding with insulation (or without it) is then performed in two ways:

• overlap extension;
• extension using H-profile.

With the first method, you will need to first shorten the panel locks and fastening frames so that the overlap length is 2.5 cm. Installation of the H-profile is carried out according to the same principle as the corner elements. It is necessary to remember about the gaps of 0.6 cm from the starting strip and 0.3 cm from the soffit.

Every 2-3 rows it is worth checking the horizontal position of the siding using a building level. When passing through openings, a piece of trim falling into a window or door is simply cut off.

Completion of finishing

How to properly sheathe a building under a roof? You need to follow this algorithm:

1. Measure the distance between the bottom of the finish strip lock and the penultimate siding panel. From this distance, subtract 1-2 mm per indent and obtain the required width of the last panel. The element is marked and the upper part, in which the locking connection is provided, is cut off.
2. At the top of the last plank, hooks are made, which are located in increments of 20 cm. To do this, make cuts and bend them outward.
3. The prepared strip is inserted into the penultimate panel and snapped into the finishing profile.

To sheathe the pediment, use profiles for internal corners or starting ones. The installation technology is similar to cladding the main part of the wall. You also need to trim the panels and remember the gaps of 6 and 9 mm. The last, uppermost section of the gable can be secured with a self-tapping screw directly through the panel material. This can only be done here; in other cases, drilling holes is not allowed.

How to cover a wooden house with siding with your own hands

Some wooden house designs require exterior finishing. Either these are old houses that have lost their appearance, or these are houses with new walls made of timber or logs. Whatever the reason, there is a completely acceptable option - siding. Fast, simple, economical. Moreover, this material is affordable, it is made in a fairly large assortment of textures and colors, from various materials, and it is not at all difficult to sheathe a wooden house yourself. To do this, it is enough to have the necessary tools, “even” hands and, most importantly, desire. As for knowledge of how to do this and which is the best siding to choose for cladding a wooden house, this article has prepared some valuable practical tips for you.

Covering a wooden house with siding. Which siding to choose?

The popularity of siding among owners of private wooden houses is quite high. This situation has arisen, first of all, due to the technical characteristics of the material itself at the same time as its affordability. Today, on the construction market, manufacturers offer the following types of siding for cladding a house:

• Vinyl
• Tsokolny
• Aluminum
• Copper
• Steel
• Cement
• Wood

Each type of siding has its own advantages and certain disadvantages, but, in general, literally any option will suit you for cladding a wooden house. Here, rather, everything will depend on what texture and color scheme you like more, and what budget you have. The most expensive are copper and wood siding. The cheapest is vinyl. It ranks first in terms of demand. Cement siding is used less often. When decorating commercial premises or public buildings, preference is given to copper and steel siding.

To cover a wooden house with your own hands, it is best to use vinyl or wood siding.

How to calculate materials for cladding a wooden house with siding

Before purchasing siding and supporting structural elements for cladding a wooden house, a thrifty owner will make a calculation of the material. This is important for two reasons:

• To simply buy the required amount of material at a time and not have to drive the car several times for missing components and strips or sheets of siding
• To avoid spending extra money or buying more than you need

How to calculate the amount of siding for cladding a house

It’s a little more complicated when calculating the frame elements. To find out the number of guide profiles, you will need to measure the lengths of all corners of the house (including where the walls adjoin door and window slopes), its perimeter - and multiply all this by two. To the resulting value, add the lengths of the perimeters of windows and doors.

The rack profile is calculated based on the distance between the upper and lower points from the ground to the junction of the wall and the roof. The number of such values ​​must be multiplied by the length of the perimeter of the house, divided by 0.6 meters (installation step of rack profiles). Thus, you will receive the required quantity of profile in linear meters.

Calculation of additional components and components

It is very easy to calculate additional components and parts for both the frame and the siding itself. Considering that the design of the frame made of galvanized profiles for siding is similar to the design of other ventilated facade systems, special U-shaped fasteners are used to attach the profile to the wall. This solution will allow you to move the profile to the distance you need for the insulation from the wall and align the profiles with respect to each other into one even plane. You can find out the number of fasteners by dividing the total length of the rack profiles by 0.7 (the distance between the fastening elements is 0.7 m).

Of course, you will need self-tapping screws. They should be purchased in two types:

• TN25 (or 35) for wood
• LN9 – for attaching siding to a metal frame

The need for TN screws is calculated simply - the number of U-shaped fastenings is multiplied by two + a 5 percent reserve. LN self-tapping screws can only be calculated approximately.

Technology for siding a wooden house

First you need to check the availability of the tool. Will need:

• Cordless screwdriver or drill with speed control button
• Level
• Roulette
• Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Hammer

At the first stage, the marking is performed. In increments of 600 mm, starting from the previously marked center of the wall, mark vertical lines. For each of them, mark the places where the U-shaped fasteners will be screwed (we have already said that the recommended pitch between them is 700 mm).

After marking is completed, attach the U-brackets to the wall. After this, we install the rack profiles. There is a certain nuance here - the rack profiles must be in one flat plane. To achieve this result, those closest to the corners of the profile are initially mounted. A nylon cord is stretched between them, which serves as a guide for aligning the remaining profiles in one plane. The step between horizontal threads is allowed within one meter - this is quite enough to minimize possible errors.

In this article, we did not consider the technique of assembling a frame from a galvanized profile, believing that this topic requires more detailed study and deserves a separate article.

Frame covering

Upon completion of installation of the frame, we lay down the selected thermal insulation materials, rolled steam and waterproofing and proceed directly to installing the siding with our own hands. The first step is to attach the starting rail. It is installed at the bottom of the wall perfectly horizontally. Starting from there, strip by strip, the wall cladding is assembled to the level of the upper horizon.

When assembling, it is important to ensure that the lower lock on the strip fits tightly into the upper groove when connected.

Siding is easy to install, but additional difficulties may arise when finishing window and door openings. Finishing windows with siding requires clarification and a step-by-step description of installation work. This part of the job is painstaking work.

Many manufacturers (for example, Grand Line) produce all the necessary elements for finishing windows with siding. Read more about Grand Line siding here. The article discusses the advantages of the material, color palette and cost of Grand Line siding.

Let us just give one more comment - even when cladding a wooden house of a new building with siding, it is categorically not recommended to attach the siding directly to the wall, no matter how tempting such a solution may seem to you. This has its negative consequences:

• You will not be able to install additional insulation, this is the first disadvantage
• Over time, wooden walls may become deformed due to shrinkage or for other reasons; the siding, accordingly, will also behave

And the second piece of advice: it is professionally wrong to install a wooden sheathing under the siding - only a frame made of galvanized profile. This is more reliable, plus the same reasons as when installing directly on a wooden wall - timber is simply subject to deformation from changes in temperature and humidity levels.

In conclusion, it remains to add that it is possible that siding your first wall will take a significant amount of time. But, having understood the basics, all further work will not take much time and effort.

Video on how to sheathe the outside of a wooden house with siding

Covering a wooden house with siding. Installation details.

Technology for siding a wooden house. Subtleties and nuances of each stage of installation.

Finishing siding on a wooden house: pros, cons and installation recommendations

Today we’ll tell you what it’s like to decorate a wooden house with siding. After the built house has shrunk, it is ready for finishing the facade.

Finishing the facade is necessary in order to protect it from external negative influences, as well as to perform a decorative function. One of the materials for cladding a house is siding. This product made of polyvinyl chloride is widely used in the decoration of cottages and houses.

Advantages and disadvantages of siding

This facing material undoubtedly has its advantages, but it also has disadvantages. And therefore, before you start finishing the facade, you need to know all the possible problems.

pros

Advantages of plastic siding:

1. Decorative function solution. In this finish, two types of cladding are realized: “shipboard” and “herringbone”. But he has a large selection of colors.
2. Protection from external factors: polyvinyl chloride is not afraid of the sun, rain, snow or frost.
3. Siding is resistant to minor mechanical stress.
4. Since over time the lining will become dirty from precipitation, it can be washed. Wash with plain water with added detergent. You can simply wash with water from a hose, and treat heavily soiled areas with a sponge and soap.
5. Polyvinyl chloride is not afraid of bugs, rot, or corrosion.
6. The slats have holes that allow the house to “breathe.”

Minuses

As you can see, siding is a very attractive material for finishing a house. But it also has disadvantages:

1. Without additional insulation, the siding itself will not retain heat. Therefore, spend money on buying insulation. But this measure will allow you to reduce your heating bill.
2. Polyvinyl chloride tends to shrink in the cold and expand in the sun. Therefore, when installing siding, you need to take this point into account and not overtighten the screws that hold the siding in place.

It is also important that siding on a wooden house can take place at any time of the year. When installing, be sure to leave small gaps at all ends of the house; this is necessary so that the siding can expand freely when heated in the sun. If such gaps are not left and the panels are mounted closely, then in sunny weather the panels will begin to expand and swell due to lack of space.

If you take into account the disadvantages of siding and install it correctly, the resulting finish will please the home owners for a long time.

Preparing the house for paneling

You need to prepare your home for siding installation. The technology of covering a house with finishing materials does not involve any processing of the wooden structure. It is assumed that all work will already be completed by the time of finishing. But it’s still worth paying attention to this point.

It is necessary to inspect the house for rot or blue stains. If these signs are detected, you need to treat the house with antiseptics. Areas damaged by rot must be cleaned with sandpaper and treated with an antifungal antiseptic.

If the house was previously sheathed with any materials, they must be removed. Some people prefer to attach the finishing material directly to the old cladding, but in this case you cannot be sure of the quality of the sheathing.

You can use previously made insulation, but you will need to check the condition of the insulation on the house. If necessary, it can be replaced.

When installing the frame, you need to take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a small gap between the wall of the house and the frame material. This gap, along with the holes in the siding strips, will provide air flow.

The frame for finishing a house with siding with your own hands can be metal or wood. The metal frame consists of various strips made of metal. Their disadvantage is that over time they can cause rust, which can appear on the surface of the cladding. The wooden frame consists of bars and lath. The frame wood also needs to be treated with antiseptics.

Insulation under siding

The siding itself is just a decorative and protective shell of the house. It cannot retain heat on its own, so for these purposes it is necessary to use a variety of insulation materials.

To decorate a house with insulation, it is better to choose slab insulation. It is denser, which means its insulation capabilities are much higher. Over time, rolled heat insulation can slide down significantly and the structure of such insulation is loose. Although for reliability it is better to secure the slab insulation.

Installation of insulation will be as follows:

1. Treatment of the wooden frame with a vapor and wind barrier membrane. It is stretched onto the frame with an overlap at the junction of the membrane.
2. Laying insulation.
3. Laying another layer of membrane.

The insulation must be under two layers of membrane to protect it from water. After this, you can begin installing the siding.
Home decoration

Finishing technology

The technology for finishing a house with siding is quite simple and does not require special skills or tools. This work can be done by a person with little experience in construction work. After treating the walls of the house and installing an insulating layer (if necessary), you need to start laying the planks:

1. Installation begins by attaching the starting strip. It must be attached strictly level, otherwise all subsequent layers will be skewed. To finish the house with a starting plank, look for the lowest point on the sheathing and attach the plank from 5 cm upward. The starting panel is attached to all corners of the house.
2. A special G-profile is attached around windows and doors.
3. Place the siding strip behind the lock of the starting strip. At the top of each plank there are special oblong cutouts; self-tapping screws rotate into them.
4. The next finishing row begins to be fastened after the previous one is completed.
5. To cut the plank to length, use a hacksaw or jigsaw.
6. To increase the length, a special n-profile is used. It connects the locks of the planks to the joint.

When installing, it is necessary to maintain the gaps between the corner strips. As a rule, a gap of 5 mm is left. But when installing in winter, this gap needs to be increased so that the planks can expand without problems.

One of the advantages of siding is that it is manufactured using the same technology. This means that the house can be decorated in different ways. For example, take corner and window profiles in one color, and make the walls of the house in a different color.

Construction of houses

An excellent option for finishing the exterior of your home would be to install siding. This material tolerates weathering and other external irritants well, thereby protecting the tree from negative influences. In addition, a house covered with siding acquires an attractive appearance and becomes more presentable. We will consider the technology of finishing a wooden house with siding below.

Finishing siding on a wooden house: features and advantages of the material

Siding as a finishing material has become widespread among owners of private houses. This is explained, first of all, by its affordable cost and speed of installation work.

Previously, exclusively natural materials were used for finishing facades, but now the finishing market offers excellent options in the form of wood, metal, and vinyl, which form the basis of siding.

The use of the wooden component is the lowest, since its production will require the largest amount of money. In addition, this type of siding has the greatest number of disadvantages. Although wooden siding is environmentally friendly, it requires constant maintenance, painting, repairs, and replacement of worn parts. Wood siding has a low level of fire safety, as well as a short service life.

It is not recommended to install metal siding on a wooden house. This type of siding is most suitable for cladding industrial and warehouse premises. Among the advantages of metal siding are:

• high strength;
• duration of operation;
• variety of colors and their shades;
• Fire safety.

Although metal siding is practically not resistant to corrosion, it also puts a lot of stress on the building structure due to too much weight.

The basement type of siding is its newest type. These panels provide additional protection for the lower part of the house from moisture and weathering. In appearance, this cladding is similar to stone or brickwork. This siding makes the building look more sophisticated and complete.

The most common option for finishing residential buildings is vinyl siding. Such panels consist of a two-layer structure. The first layer protects the material, and the second protects its physical characteristics.

Among the advantages of vinyl siding we note:

• service life more than 45 years;
• no need for additional care and processing;
• installation on any type of surface;
• resistance to corrosion and rotting;
• Fire safety.

You should start decorating any house with siding by calculating the required amount of material. There are two options to complete this task:

• independent calculations taking into account recommendations from the Internet or relying on your own efforts;
• contacting specialists who will help calculate the required number of panels and additional materials.

Finishing siding of a wooden house photo and technology

There are two main stages of working on finishing a wooden house with siding, they include:

• installation work on the arrangement of the frame;
• siding covering.

The lathing is installed if there are large differences on the walls and they are uneven. In addition, if the house has previously installed sheathing, then the construction of the frame is also mandatory. Although first you need to take care of removing the old coating.

The siding installation procedure includes the following steps:

• do not carry out work immediately after building a wooden house, as it will take some time to shrink;
• in order to fasten the panels to the house, it is preferable to use aluminum nails, the diameter of which is 3 mm and the length is 20 mm;
• start installing siding from the central part of the building;
• use an electric saw to cut the material;
• do not attach siding close to the wall of the house;
• Every five rows, check the structure for evenness using a level.

Decorating the outside of a wooden house with siding: complete set of materials

To work you will need:

• grinders or electric saws;
• scissors with small teeth;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• measuring tape;
• level;
• square;
• stairs.

Finishing siding on a wooden house requires:

• finishing strips;
• spotlights;
• chamfers;
• edging strips;
• platbands;
• connecting strips;
• external and internal corner elements;
• hinged and initial strips;
• panels directly.

When you purchase siding, it comes with all these elements that allow you to complete the installation work yourself.

Before purchasing, the customer indicates the type of building, its area, shape and configuration, and specialists complete the materials with the necessary elements.

Among the main components, the following should be highlighted:

• the use of external corners allows you to arrange the outer part of the building; these elements are about three meters in height; if the building is one-story and its height is not more than three meters, then it is recommended to use a solid corner, otherwise, individual fragments are installed;
• calculation of internal corners is also carried out; when finishing eaves sections with siding, the connection of the wall with it is also finished using internal corners, otherwise, a finishing strip is installed in this area;
• in addition, finishing with siding involves the use of materials such as wind-protective boards and soffits;
• to calculate the starting level, subtract the width of the openings for windows and doors from the total perimeter of the house;
• J-profiles allow you to arrange areas of different heights or those with differences;
• For covering window openings, a window strip is used; when choosing it, it is better to take the material with a reserve, in order to avoid the appearance of too large joints;
• installation of ebbs or drain strips is carried out around the perimeter of the entire building;
• if the house has a length of more than 366 cm, then the panels are connected to each other with special H-profiles;
• to calculate the required amount of materials, use the following formula: multiply the total area of ​​all walls without the area of ​​window and door openings by the area of ​​the siding and by ten percent to compensate for joints, etc.;
• the best option would be to use aluminum nails or galvanized screws.

How to cover a wooden house with siding: preparatory stage

Carrying out preparatory work is a mandatory process before finishing a wooden building. To begin with, all windows, doors, grilles or trims are dismantled in the house. If finishing work was previously carried out on the installation of other coatings, then they should be disposed of.

First, the sheathing is installed. There are two options:

A building level and tape measure will help mark the lines for fixing the slats. As a result, the area should look like a closed contour. After measuring the distance between the corner parts of the house and the base, another contour is constructed along which the first rail will pass. If it deviates, the entire structure will become distorted. Therefore, calculations and markings must be carried out with special care.

U-shaped fasteners will help secure vertical type guides. All work starts from the corner. The planks must fit snugly against the wall; for this, foam plastic or wooden blocks are placed under them. The interval between slats is from 300 to 400 mm. If you plan to install lamps or other items on the surface of the siding that provide additional load, you should install more slats in these areas.

The vertical guides are not connected to each other, since natural ventilation occurs in the places between them. Otherwise, condensation will appear and the wood will begin to collapse under the influence of fungus or mold.

The next stage involves installation of waterproofing and insulation. In wooden buildings, waterproofing is mandatory. The best option for performing these works would be to use a wind and moisture protective membrane. If there is no need for insulation, the film is fixed to the wall surface. This way, the interval for ventilation of the siding is maintained.

If you plan to install a layer of insulation, then first the insulation is laid, and then waterproofing is applied to it. Next, another sheathing is created, which accompanies ventilation.

An excellent insulation option would be slabs based on fiberglass, basalt or mineral wool. It is possible to use polystyrene foam. Please note that the density of the insulation must be high. A diffusion membrane is placed on the insulation, which is fixed to the surface using a stapler.

The procedure for siding a wooden house

Siding installation begins with the installation of basement drainage systems. They are attached in pre-marked places. This design has a certain rigidity, so its fixation is quite simple.

Next, the corner profiles are installed. Please note that their fixation from above using self-tapping screws should be quite rigid. The following screws are screwed into the profiles in their middle part. If necessary, the length is increased gradually. The upper part of the profile is superimposed on the lower one with an overlap of 3-4 cm. Next, a drainage line is installed, on which the starting bar is fixed. It is located five millimeters higher than the lower section of the corner profiles.

Window profiles are fixed along the perimeter of window openings; in this process, the inner part of the profile should be 2 cm higher than the outer one. J-profile is used to finish doorways. Corner sections are sawed at an angle of forty-five degrees for more secure fastening. The top profile is laid on top of the side profile.

If you plan to install the H-profile vertically, then you need to use a level to fix them. A gap of 4-7 mm is left between them, in front of the cornice and plinth. This will help prevent the planks from bending as they expand. The finishing strip is being installed on the roof.

The next stage involves installing the panels themselves. Their first row is fixed on the surface of the starting bar. This operation is performed quite simply, after a click is heard in the lower part, the upper part of the panels is secured using self-tapping screws. The interval between screws is 400 mm. The following panels are installed in the same way. Do not fasten the siding too tightly; it should fit loosely to the sheathing. The upper section ends with a finishing bar. First, the strip is installed, and the panel is mounted into it. As a result of installing the panel, you should hear the same click as when installing the first row.

1. Do not fix the siding to the sheathing too tightly, as this material can expand when exposed to high temperatures and contract when exposed to frost. The length of the material decreases or increases by 1%, but if it is fixed too tightly, there is a risk of damage to the siding. Fasteners do not pass through the panels under any circumstances, but only through special holes. There is a minimum gap of one millimeter between the screw head and the siding plate.

2. There must be a gap of 1 cm between the plank and the guide-type profile in order to avoid bending of the siding during its thermal expansion. If siding is carried out in hot weather, then ensure that the siding is protected from direct sunlight.

3. Siding installation work is carried out both in winter and summer. However, if the air temperature is lower than -11 degrees, you should use a grinder to cut the material, otherwise there is a risk of cracking.

Finishing a wooden house with siding video:

With your own hands

How to cover a wooden house with siding

There is nothing complicated in the question of how to cover a wooden house with siding. Even a non-professional builder can do this. But even construction company employees are not always aware of the pitfalls hidden behind this decision.

Basic nuances of how to sheathe wooden houses with siding

There are rules that are important to follow regardless of the siding material chosen. Of course, this significantly increases the cost of installation, but allows you to avoid annoying mistakes:

1. Under no circumstances should you use drywall profiles as sheathing for siding - they are not intended for outdoor use and may not withstand the load.
2. To level the sheathing of high-humidity bars, it is better to use wooden backings. Even strong hangers with a thickness of 0.9 mm may not withstand the curvature of the bars during the drying process.

When insulating your house with mineral wool, to achieve a sufficient thickness of the insulation, it is better to use double lathing - to securely fix two layers of insulation, laid vertically and horizontally.

First, the corner bars are leveled and fastened, then the bars between them, and at the very end - the bars around the openings. For horizontal siding, a vertical sheathing is made, for vertical siding, a horizontal sheathing is made.

The lathing is done in increments of 30-40 cm - it depends on the panels themselves, since the screws are screwed in exactly in the center of the mounting hole. Also, you cannot screw the screws in all the way; the gap between the head and the panel should be 1 mm - for thermal expansion of the material. If the panels are loosely fastened, even with a slight wind the whole house will rattle.

Special additional elements – corners and platbands – must be used.

Siding installation begins with the installation of guides. The flashing is attached to the plinth first, then the corner profiles, window trims and J-profiles around the doors. Finally, the finishing strip is installed.

The starting profile is screwed over the ebb, the first panel is attached to it until it clicks and secured with self-tapping screws. The panels are laid from bottom to top. A 1cm gap should be left between the edges of the planks and the guide elements to allow for thermal expansion.

The consequences of failure to follow the installation instructions are clearly shown in the video.

Vinyl siding - cheap and fast

Vinyl siding is chosen for its low cost and speed of installation. With proper skill, you can cover the entire facade in one day. It does not need to be painted; plastic does not require special care or coating with protective solutions.

But there are several disadvantages that you need to be prepared for:

• in the cold, plastic becomes brittle;
• fades in the sun - it is better to choose panels that are not painted on the outside, but made from completely plain vinyl;
• dark plastic is subject to much greater expansion, so its use is quite difficult, as it requires very careful and precise installation.

Finishing with metal siding - reliable and practical

Metal siding will cost much more than vinyl siding, but will also last longer. It does not fade so much, does not deform and is resistant to external influences. Its only drawback is the high noise level - a strong slanting downpour will create an indescribable sensation for everyone who wants to sit next to it under the canopy.

But thanks to a variety of colors and an abundance of shapes, you can turn even an old and ugly frame into a stylish log house made of round timber.

Wood siding - beautiful and durable

Wood paneling requires persistence and some carpentry skills. But it will last a long time, delighting more than one generation of residents with its appearance. For wooden siding, only dry sawn boards are suitable. Planed is not suitable - due to its smooth structure, it does not absorb glaze antiseptics well.

With vertical cladding, the bottom board is fastened with galvanized nails with heads, the top one overlaps the bottom board at the fastening points and is nailed with nails without heads. Thanks to the vertical grooves, moisture does not linger on the walls, which allows the facade to maintain a beautiful and well-groomed appearance for a long time without additional finishing.

Siding over lining - how to do it right

To minimize labor costs, you can install new panels on the old sheathing, especially if you don’t have the courage to throw away still good wood.

But you need to take into account that:

• the lining must be strong, otherwise the bars or profiles screwed to it may be torn off by the wind along with the siding;
• it is pointless to insulate a house on top of an old lining, because there is an air gap between it and the house;
• It is not necessary to cover the lining with membranes, although it is desirable - a double ventilation gap (between the house and the sheathing, and between the sheathing and siding) will provide sufficient ventilation so that the lining does not rot;
• To protect the lining from moisture entering through cracks in the siding, you can use simple waterproofing only if there is an air gap between the house and the old finish, otherwise you will have to spend money on a more expensive vapor-permeable membrane.

If there are doubts about the strength of the old casing, or it has already begun to rot, it is advisable to remove it. You will also have to remove the lining if you are not sure of the correct installation of the insulation and the presence of a ventilation gap. After all, it’s better to do it right once than to constantly correct past mistakes.

Laying insulation under siding - what you need to remember

When insulating a wooden house, which will subsequently be finished with siding, you must not forget that:

• Only vapor-permeable materials are suitable as insulation - polystyrene foam and its derivatives are absolutely not suitable;
• the roofing cake should increase vapor permeability from the inside of the building to the outside - laying a vapor barrier under the insulation is prohibited;
• it is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the insulation by organizing the necessary ventilation gap of 3-4 cm in front of the siding, otherwise the insulation will simply rot;

To protect the insulation from weathering and getting wet, only windproof membranes are used - they remove accumulated steam outside, but do not allow moisture to penetrate inside.

There is another controversial issue that you will have to decide on your own - whether to protect wooden walls from possible wet insulation with another layer of wind protection. On the one hand, the house continues to breathe, a greenhouse effect is not created, while the wooden structures are reliably insulated. On the other hand, you can save on film, because there is little moisture in the insulation if its thickness is chosen correctly, and the dew point is on the outer layer, not the inner one.

Similar homemade products

DIY electric concrete mixer: an original solution in construction

For any person who knows how to use construction tools, decorating a house with siding with their own hands is not a problem. This is facilitated by the instructions issued by the manufacturers. If you strictly follow these instructions, everything can be done, but do not forget about some subtleties that require special attention.

Preparatory work

Installing siding should begin with preparing the walls. It is necessary to dismantle all interfering components: shutters, trim, metal grilles, doors, drains.

If there are gaps around windows and doors, they should be sealed.

Frame

At the second stage of work, the sheathing is installed. It can be made of galvanized steel profile or wooden slats. When using wooden slats, make sure they are dry and treat them with an antiseptic.

For metal siding, steel sheathing is made. Vinyl - attaches to any sheathing. However, on brick or concrete walls, it is better to install steel sheathing.

The reason for this is that the wooden sheathing will absorb moisture from the brick wall. Even the use of special moisture-proof impregnations will not help much in such a situation.

In addition, when installing basement siding, they also use exclusively metal sheathing. Or moisture will be absorbed from the ground. In this case, you will need to remove the panels and install new ones.

Facade ventilation

There must be air flow in the space from the siding to the wall. For this reason, the connection of vertical slats should not be made in a horizontal plane - this will interfere with ventilation.

When covering with siding, you can also do insulation. I lay the insulation between the vertical slats of the frame. A waterproofing layer is laid on top so that the insulating material does not become saturated with moisture.

But even here, ventilation of the facade is required. To ensure ventilation, a gap should be left from the waterproofing layer to the surface of the siding. This is done using an additional sheathing (25 mm), which is mounted on top of the main one.

When fastening, use only anti-corrosion nails, staples or bolts. They should be tightened no less than 20 mm.

Siding fastening

Siding must “breathe”. A person finishing a house with siding must follow this rule unconditionally. Siding panels should not be rigidly attached.

Siding is attached this way because when it heats up, vinyl siding becomes longer, and when it cools, it shrinks. The same strip can change length by 10 mm, depending on the time of year.

For this reason, the shape of all mounting holes is oblong. Nails cannot be installed from the edge of the hole or through the panels - only in the finished hole and in the center. Otherwise, the siding will deform.

The same goes for deepening nails. The cap and siding plate should be 1 mm apart. In this case, the profile will not be pressed and it will move freely.

And, naturally, sheathing with siding is not done by surprise. For free movement of the siding, a small gap should be left from the end edge.

When installed in summer, the gap will be 6-9 mm, and in winter – at least 10 mm. If the gap is not maintained, swelling of the siding panels will occur, and possibly even destruction.

Covering a wooden house with siding allows you not only to decorate the building, but also to insulate the entire structure and protect the walls from the negative influence of the environment. This article will discuss the main materials for cladding, their features and work processes. This finish is available in various textures and colors. It is important to remember that all work must be carried out by specialists, which guarantees a high-quality result in a minimum time.

Covering a house with siding is beautiful, the house is warm, and the walls are protected from environmental influences Source profil-stroy.ru

Material selection

Basically, consumers choose only three types of siding, taking into account their characteristics, price and performance.

Vinyl.

It is considered the most practical and cheapest, but it is quite easily subject to mechanical stress, but is quickly installed. Experienced specialists can sheathe the facade of a house in just one day. The cladding does not require additional painting, the use of protective layers or special care. However, it must be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures plastic becomes brittle, it can fade in the sun, dark plastic is susceptible to expansion. Taking into account the last factor, the most accurate installation is required.

Vinyl siding is the most affordable Source grandline.ru

Metal.

It is durable and highly durable, but it requires additional treatment against corrosion. The material is very practical and reliable, but it costs much more than vinyl. Resistant to various impacts, deformation or fading, large selection of shapes and colors. The downside is that it is noisy when it rains.

Metal siding is durable, and its color sometimes makes it difficult to distinguish a house under siding from a wooden one Source montazh-saidinga.ru

Wood.

It is considered the most optimal option, fits well with the properties of the wall material, but is very expensive. The material is durable and beautiful, but only specialists should work with it. Houses covered with wood siding look elegant; the panels have vertical grooves, so they do not retain moisture. To preserve the appearance, there is no need to use additional finishing.

Sheathing a house with wood is not cheap, and the material requires additional protection Source realsroier.ru

There is also fiber cement siding. But it is not so popular, even despite its high strength and fire resistance. This is due to the fact that this material has a very large mass, so its installation is quite complex and costly.

Fiber cement siding is difficult to install, but it is perfect for a wooden house that requires exterior finishing. Source sk.decorexpro.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey exterior finishing and insulation services for private houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

To begin with, select a sheathing, which can be wooden or metal. The second option is used for uneven surfaces, but wood is cheaper. When choosing a material from wood, it must be without delamination, any deformation or signs of rot. Everything is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. Next, you need to prepare the base; there should be no major damage to the walls; old finishes and debris are removed. The surface is treated with anti-mold liquids.

The process begins with attaching the guides; basically, the sheathing is always attached vertically; the step in this case must correspond to the selected insulation. Basically, 4x4/5x8 cm bars are purchased for the sheathing. For metal sheathing, you need to purchase a set of profiles. Fastening to a wooden wall is carried out with self-tapping screws/nails; an anti-corrosion coating must be used. Houses finished with siding imply the use of insulation, the vapor barrier is fastened with a stapler, the vapor barrier overlap is 10 cm. After the work has been completed, the installation of guides from the corners begins. Insulation is laid between them.

Installation of siding on a pre-insulated house Source neqygi.kohacule.ru.net

Determining the bottom point of the sheathing, measure 50 cm upward and mark with a self-tapping screw;

A line is marked around the perimeter;

A cord is stretched from the bottom at a distance of 50 cm;

Corner profiles are marked;

The starting profile and strips are attached.

The attached profile must be absolutely even; the slightest mistake can lead to the entire future structure being skewed. Before installing the siding, a corner profile is attached: the edges of the soffits are marked and the guide is mounted to the corner. The joints at all corners must be at the same level; it is done overlapping.

It must be remembered that a certain gap must be made between all the planks. Special technologies are used for the work. Therefore, all operations should be performed only by qualified specialists in this field. This is the only way to achieve high-quality and durable results.

Avoiding mistakes when covering a house with siding is a way to avoid many problems in the future Source baurum.ru

Framing openings is considered one of the difficult stages. The fastening corresponds to the location of the opening relative to the wall. A specialist will tell you what fittings are needed to cover a house with siding.

After this, installation of the first strip begins. It is mounted in the corner and lock of the starting strip, leaving a small gap. It is worth noting that gaps are left for expansions that can occur as a result of temperature fluctuations. Then the plank is fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. The fastenings must be perpendicular to the wall surface. In this case, the screws should not be over-tightened. The remaining panels can be mounted using an “H” profile or overlapped. The evenness of the installation of the panels is periodically checked. Sheathing under the roof is carried out in a special way; it is necessary to carry out some calculations and operations. The pediment is sheathed with starting or internal corner profiles.

Sheathing under the roof is different from installing siding on the walls Source noblesvilleroofing.com

Important cladding rules

Siding of a wooden house must be done according to certain rules.

It is prohibited to use a profile for drywall;

leveling of wet sheathing bars is carried out using a substrate;

insulation with mineral wool occurs using double lathing - horizontal and vertical;

first the corner bars are placed, then in the middle and then around the openings;

for vertical siding, horizontal sheathing is used and vice versa;

the sheathing pitch is from 30 to 40 cm, depending on the panels;

use of additional elements;

work begins with the installation of guides.

It should be noted that a starting profile is installed above the ebbs, with the first panel attached to it. All panels are installed from below. A small gap is left between the guides and the slats.

After installing the siding, the wall remains one piece - there are no visible seams or joints. Source vashastena.ru

Sheathing over lining

In certain cases, new panels can be installed on old panels, but only if they are in good condition. There are also other important factors to consider. For example, the entire lining must be very strong so that the elements attached to it are not blown off by the wind. Insulation in this case is not used, since a large layer remains. It is not necessary to cover the lining with membranes - you will get a double ventilation gap, which ensures good air movement. Protection from moisture of the lining is provided by waterproofing, but only if there is an air gap between the wall and the old finishing material. If it is not there, then it is necessary to use a vapor-permeable membrane.

If there is any doubt, then siding on a wooden house over the old sheathing is not carried out. It is necessary to carefully inspect the material for the presence of rot or poor strength. You should not leave the old coating if it is deformed, unevenly laid, or there is no ventilation gap.

Video description

Briefly, how the process of covering a house with siding goes in the video:

Insulation for siding

When insulating a house that will be covered with siding, you need to remember a number of rules:

For insulation, only vapor-permeable materials can be used; it is strictly forbidden to use polystyrene foam;

the roofing cake should lead to an increase in vapor permeability from inside the building; a vapor barrier layer cannot be laid under the insulation;

it is important to ensure high-quality ventilation of the used insulation; for this purpose, a ventilation gap of several centimeters is left;

Windproof membranes are used to protect against wetting or weathering.

There is no need for an air gap between the wall and the insulation, as this will not give the desired result.

To prevent walls covered with siding from losing their original appearance, it is enough to rinse them from time to time to remove dust Source krsk.au.ru

Conclusion

Upholstering a house with siding can be used in a variety of situations. This material is mainly used to decorate a home, making it more attractive and pleasant. However, such materials act as additional protection for the walls of the building from moisture, wind, and precipitation. Installing siding is a rather complex process in which important rules and technologies must be followed and appropriate calculations must be made. Such work must be carried out by specialists who know all the features of materials and their installation. It is better to pay money for installation and get a high-quality and durable result with a guarantee.