A water heater, also known as a boiler, also known as an autonomous heating device, in some cases is the most a good decision hot water supply problems. It is also used in those houses and apartments where there is no hot water at all, where there is some, but intermittently, but most often those who want to save money think about how to connect the boiler to the water supply.
Let's give calculations using Moscow as an example (knowing about tariffs in your region, you can also calculate the economic benefits). On average, a family of 4 uses 8 cubic meters of hot water per month. The tariff for hot water in 2016 is 108.41 rubles. (population). It turns out that you will have to pay 867.28 rubles per month for hot water supply.
Now regarding the water heater. For a family of 4 people we take a 100-liter storage boiler 2 kW. Such a device heats water to the required temperature in an average of 2.5-3 hours, resulting in a total of 6 kW per day, 180 kW per day. With a tariff of 3.52 rubles. the total amount of the payment is 633.6 rubles. As you can see, 25% cheaper.
If we take into account the most economical one - a 5 kW instantaneous water heater, the tariff will be 75% cheaper than hot water supply. Its average productivity is 2 l/min. It will take 25 minutes (0.42 hours) to heat 50 liters. 0.42 x 5 = 2.1 kW per day. This produces 63 kW per month. In monetary terms, 222 rubles.
Since the economic benefits, as they say, are obvious, it’s time to tell you how to properly connect the boiler to the central water supply.
Varieties
Today the range of water heaters is very extensive. The differences lie in the heating method, power, tank shape, installation method, etc.
Water heating method:
- electric;
- gas;
- combined (gas/electricity);
- indirect heating of water through a boiler.
Water supply method:
- pressure;
- non-pressure.
Installation method:
- floor option;
- horizontal and vertical hanging.
External tank shape:
- round (cylinder);
- oval (rectangle with rounded corners).
Device
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- outer casing;
- internal tank;
- thermal insulation protection made of polyurethane;
- tubular electric heater (TEH);
- thermometer;
- thermostat.
This type of water heater is called storage due to the presence of a tank filled with water. The heating element heats the water to a certain temperature, and the thermal insulation between the inner and outer casings maintains the temperature. As needed, water is consumed, automatically replenished and heated again.
Flow unit design
In a flow-through boiler, due to the operation of a more powerful heating element, the water passing through it warms up instantly. The temperature is adjusted by decreasing or increasing the flow.
Such devices are mounted directly at a point in the water supply system, but only at one point - it is impossible to get it from one instantaneous boiler hot water in both the kitchen and bathroom at the same time.
The easiest to connect and operate is an electric boiler, since it does not require approval, special permission or the purchase of additional tools.
Flow-through HV is very powerful household appliance, which requires 30 A wiring and mandatory grounding to connect. In order to limit line damage on instantaneous water heaters with a heating element power of more than 5 kW, the kit does not include a power cord and a standard plug.
The storage HP has a standard power of 2 kW, where the supply current is 10 A. Ordinary “household” wiring is quite sufficient for the operation of this unit.
Considering that the PV does not provide the hottest possible water, precisely due to instant heating, many opt for storage water. Moreover, almost everyone can connect it.
How to connect correctly
Preparatory actions
- Preparing the site based on “step-by-step” accessibility to connecting elements- water supply pipes and socket.
- The wall on which the wall-mounted boiler will be mounted must be strong - the total weight of the device of 100 liters will be 130-150 kg, depending on the internal structure.
Required tools and materials:
- set of adjustable wrenches;
- roulette;
- mounting level:
- hammer drill (for load-bearing wall) or drill;
- pliers;
- connecting tees-fittings;
- shut-off valves (on inlet pipes);
- sealant (tow, paste, tape, etc.).
Installation process
Boiler canopy on the wall. Depending on the volume of the tank, select the appropriate number of brackets (they are usually included in the kit) and dowels. For a standard HV with a volume of 100 liters, 2 complete brackets are sufficient. If the volume is less, 2 is also required, if more, 4/6.
On back side look at how many holes there are on the boiler. Respectively. so many brackets will need to be purchased if they are not included in the kit.
Measure the distance between the holes and make marks on the wall where you will make the holes (standard 180 mm). If the wall on which the device will be hung is load-bearing or panel house, then you will need a hammer drill. In other cases, an electric drill will do the job.
Be sure to check straightness using a mounting level. The device must be installed absolutely level without distortion.
We drilled holes, inserted dowels and screwed the brackets with screws, after which we hung the boiler on hooks.
How to properly connect the boiler to the water supply
To begin with, it should be noted that the water coming from the tap is no different high degree cleanliness. In order to clean the heating element less often, it is recommended to embed a small filter on the inlet pipe.
Now we connect the HV to the pipe with cold water, to do this, we screw a safety valve onto the pipe of the device itself with a blue ring and insulate it with FUM tape. After this, we connect the pipe with the red ring to the outlet pipe through which hot water will flow to the mixer. We also insulate with FUM tape.
For reference. FUM tape - insulating material on a fluoroplastic base, which has high functional properties. The tape does not deform when temperature changes, does not rot, does not wear out, does not tear, is labile to chemical elements, non-toxic.
In order for the thread to “seat” as tightly as possible, it is necessary to wind the tape strictly clockwise.
Connection to pipes
Polypropylene pipes
What tools will you need:
- pipe cutter
- tees and couplings (МРН)
- stopcock
How to connect correctly:
- Shut off the hot and cold water supply pipes on the riser.
- Make a cut at the marked place on the pipe and solder the tees on both pipes.
- Insert into tees additional pipes(for extension).
- Mount couplings on the bends and connect shut-off valves to them.
- Depending on the distance of the boiler, connect shut-off valves to each of the pipes or lay an additional flexible hose and connect it to them.
In the photo you see what the connected device should look like
If the pipes are built into the wall, the connection will be somewhat more complicated.
- Break the coating directly above each pipe.
- You cut the pipe at the marked place and insert a repair coupling, more often called an American coupling.
- Weld the coupling to the tee from the polypropylene side, and to the cut on the pipe - with the threaded end.
- Remove the coupling and connect the pipes as indicated earlier.
Metal-plastic pipes
All fastenings on such pipes are carried out using fittings.
Procedure.
- Shut off the water at the riser.
- Use a pipe cutter to cut the pipes at the marked location.
- Insert the tee, connect pieces of metal-plastic pipe or flexible hose to the outlet and connect them with fittings to the branch pipes.
Steel pipes
For reference. This is a clamp with a side threaded branch that allows you to make a hole in a pipe without special equipment.
In order to install it, you need to clean the pipe from paint and spray, place a rubber seal and screw on the clamp. This results in a completely sealed connection. Next, drill a hole through the branch (the sleeve is included) and connect the stop valve, and to it a flexible hose for connecting to the water heater pipe.
How to connect a flow unit
The PV is installed exclusively on the hot water supply pipe.
Procedure
- Shut off the water at the riser
- Cut the pipe where the connection will be and weld shut-off valves on both sides.
- Connect the outlet and inlet pipes with shut-off valves using flexible hoses.
- Connect to electricity.
When using such a device at home, first turn on the water, then turn on the boiler. At the end - first the boiler, then the water.
To understand exactly how to perform actions correctly and in what order, watch the training video
Video - how to connect a boiler to a water supply
To ensure a constant supply of hot water in their home and not depend on the whims of utility services, home owners most often purchase electric water heaters. This choice is easy to explain: unlike installation geysers, installation of electric boilers does not require permission from supervisory organizations and can be done manually with minimal plumbing skills. In this case, you should take into account some recommendations to avoid installation errors. We will talk about them in this article.
We hope that when choosing a location for installation storage water heater, you took advantage of our recommendations and placed the device in the very optimal location- next to water supply and minimum distance to water points.
To connect the storage boiler you will need:
- adjustable and gas wrenches;
- screwdriver set;
- tees for inserting into pipelines;
- shut-off valves ball valves;
- metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes and fittings for them;
- fum tape or tow with paste;
- Mayevsky crane;
- safety and check valve.
An additional filter may be required rough cleaning water.
Pipeline tapping
The storage water heater is connected to the water supply system by tapping into existing pipelines. If the distribution of hot water throughout the apartment is made of polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes, then the lines are cut in the immediate vicinity of the device and tees are installed at the cut points.
Of course, before starting work, you should shut off the water supply at the entrance to the apartment.
When installing tees in a pipeline made of polypropylene, you will have to use a device for installing this material. If your system is mounted from metal-plastic pipes, then you can install the tees simply by using an adjustable wrench.
In a situation where there are wires throughout the apartment metal pipes, it is possible to do without welding machine. To do this, use a special clamp for insertion. This device is fixed to a previously cleaned pipe and clamped with screws, after which a hole is drilled in the water pipe through the outlet pipe.
The presence of a protective plastic sleeve will prevent damage to the threads inside the pipe, and the tightness of the connection will be ensured by a rubber backing, which is placed between the pipe and the fitting.
Shut-off valves are connected to the installed tees, from which metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, and possibly even flexible hoses, provide connections to the boiler. It should be noted that the use of polypropylene pipes allows you to hide them in the wall without the risk of leaks in the future.
Boiler connection diagram
The connection diagram for a storage water heater requires the installation of a shut-off and safety valve.
In this case, you can use the inexpensive solution included in the delivery kit, or you can assemble the safety group yourself, using high-quality non-return and safety valves. In this case, the elements are installed on the inlet pipe of the storage water heater in the following order:
- tee;
- ball valve for draining water from the tank (attached to the side outlet of the tee);
- safety valve;
- check valve;
- shut-off valve;
- pipeline.
If necessary, a reducer can be installed on the supply pipeline to reduce water pressure and a coarse filter, if it is not already installed in front of the water flow meter.
A tee is installed on the “hot” pipe, to the direct outlet of which a shut-off valve and a pipeline laid from the hot water supply system are connected, and to the side outlet - a Mayevsky tap or an additional ball valve. These elements will allow you to avoid vacuum in the tank when draining water during repairs or maintenance.
The described connection method will allow you to shut off the water supply to the water heater if it is necessary to remove it without disconnecting the remaining water supply points. In addition, it remains possible to use centralized water supply. To do this, simply open the valve at the entrance to the apartment. When the storage boiler is operating, this tap must be closed, otherwise your device will heat water for all neighbors.
Connecting instantaneous water heater
The connection diagram for instantaneous water heaters depends on how powerful the device you purchased, namely whether it can provide several water points, or whether its purpose is a single tap over the sink or a shower head.
In the latter case, connecting the instantaneous water heater to the water supply does not present any difficulties. It is enough to simply make a tap into a cold water pipeline using fittings for metal-plastic and polypropylene or a crimp clamp if the pipeline is made of metal pipes.
A ball valve is connected to the tee, the other end of which is connected to a flexible hose, through which cold water will be supplied to the inlet pipe of the instantaneous water heater.
Sometimes consumers buy a low-power device with a shower head just so that they can wash themselves during rare outages of hot water. In this case, the device can be connected directly to the corrugated shower hose by removing the shower head from it. Submission cold water to the device is carried out by opening the mixer to the “shower” position.
More difficult option connecting an instantaneous water heater to two or more water collection points requires special piping using additional locking devices and splitters.
Connection diagram flow device, designed to supply water to several hot water consumers, is a simplification of the method for connecting a storage water heater. Detailed video on the topic - see below:
When installing the device, you should choose a place equally distant from all water collection points (as a rule, the compact design of the device allows you to fulfill this requirement without problems). Next, follow our recommendations:
- insert tees into the cold and hot water supply pipelines;
- install ball valves on the tees. This will make it possible to remove the device without having to shut off the cold water supply to other consumers or, if necessary, close the “red” tap in order to use hot water from the common riser.
- connect the corresponding outlets of the instantaneous water heater to the taps using flexible connections, or using metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes.
A feature of instantaneous water heaters is their very fast heating. If it is used poor quality water, then the internal elements of the device very quickly become covered with scale. To extend the life of the device, install an additional ion exchange filter on the supply line.
After supplying cold water, turn on the water heater and check all connections for leaks. If necessary, make better seals, just do not overdo it with the tightening torques of the nuts.
Equally in demand today electric heater and a boiler. How to install such equipment will be described in this article. With the help of such a device you can cope with the problems of turning off hot water. Among other things, such installations can operate on an ongoing basis. IN wide range in modern stores you can find storage or instantaneous electric boilers, the latter of which are in less demand, because they are inferior to storage boilers in terms of volume and profitability. To install such a device, you can use the services of specialists or do the work yourself, but you will need to follow all safety regulations. To do this, the electricity is completely turned off and the hot water pipes are blocked.
Preparation of materials
If you decide to purchase such equipment, you should find out in advance. Of course, doing the work yourself is cheaper. If you refuse the services of professionals, you should prepare a certain set of materials for installation. You will need either a safety valve, two flexible water hoses, and two dowel nails. Upon purchase water hose It should be taken into account that you will need two elements, the length of each of which is 2 m. However, the length will depend on the distance to the insertion into the water supply system. When purchasing dowel nails, please note that there should be hooks at their ends. By the way, about the safety valve. It is worth mentioning that it comes complete with an electric boiler. The valve should have a diameter of 10 mm.
Preparing tools
So, you need a boiler. You should learn how to install such equipment before purchasing it. Do you want to do the installation yourself? IN bon voyage! However, it is worth considering that in some cases, doing the work yourself will void the manufacturer’s warranty. In addition to materials, you should prepare certain tools, including: screwdrivers, drills with a Pobedit tip for fastening to brick wall, adjustable wrench and hammer drill. The latter can be replaced with an electric drill.
Installation instructions
Many home craftsmen, having learned how much it costs to install a boiler, prefer to do all the work themselves. This is not surprising, considering that such services cost about 5,000 rubles. Do you have the skills and do you know which side to approach the hammer drill from and how to hold the screwdriver? Then why overpay? But if you do the installation yourself, you will have to prepare properly. An important role here is played by the reviews of those people who are not new to doing this kind of work. If you study all the recommendations, you can come to the following.
The process should begin by choosing a place for mounting in the bathroom or toilet. Most often, such equipment is installed above the toilet, where it will not disturb anyone. It is necessary to check the strength of the wall, as it will have to bear the load from the boiler. If the room has unreinforced plasterboard partitions, then you should refrain from installing the unit on them. With a boiler volume of 50 liters or more, a double load will be placed on the wall, that is, 100 kg.
Before installing a boiler in an apartment, you should decide on the lowest point of the equipment location, marking it on the wall surface. Next, the master measures the distance from the mounting strip to the bottom point. The first is firmly welded to the equipment body. The resulting distance must be marked on the wall. The next step is to drill two holes. The craftsmen emphasize that you need to remember that the fastening bar does not have such holes; anchors with a hook at the end must cling to its edge.
So, everything is ready to mount the boiler on the wall. How to install it correctly? The question is not an idle one: the structure must be securely fastened, because the fall of such a massive device can cause injury. If the wall is made of concrete or brick, then the craftsmen recommend using a hammer drill with a Pobedit drill bit. For wooden wall used regular drill on wood, the diameter of which is smaller than that of a plastic dowel. The latter must be installed in the hole and, if necessary, driven in.
The metal anchor is screwed in until it stops turning. As a rule, a depth of 12 cm is sufficient. The boiler should be hung by hooking the anchor hooks onto the bar to secure it to the unit body. At this point, the process of hanging the equipment can be considered complete. As you can see, the technology is not very complicated, so anyone can master it home handyman. At the next stage, you can connect the boiler to the water supply system; for this, flexible hoses should be used.
Let's connect!
Judging by the reviews, polypropylene pipes can be used instead of flexible hoses, but this will cost more and take more time. At the bottom of the boiler there are two tubes, one of which has a blue plastic ring. Cold water will be supplied through it. The second tube is indicated in red and is intended for hot water outlet.
According to craftsmen, a safety tap should be installed in the place where cold water is supplied. It is usually included in the kit or purchased additionally. The first step is to attach the safety valve. Don't forget to wrap the thread first sanitary linen or sealing tape.
Masters advise to screw one end at the next stage flexible hose to the safety valve. In this case, you need to stop using the tape, since the hose nut contains rubber gasket, acting as a sealant. Well, the question of how to install a boiler in an apartment has almost been resolved. The next step is to screw one end of the flexible hose to the pipe from which the hot coolant comes. In this case, sealing tape is also not required.
Now you can start connecting the free ends of the hoses. The end to which cold water will flow should be connected to a water pipe. A valve or tap must first be installed at this location, which will allow, if necessary, to shut off the liquid supply. This recommendation should not be neglected, since the boiler may fail during operation or require replacement of spare parts. The free end of the other hose should be connected to the pipe that goes to the mixer.
In principle, installing a water boiler yourself is not difficult. You just need to arm yourself with certain knowledge (in addition to tools and materials). And there are many nuances in this matter. In particular, before connecting the unit, it is necessary to connect the tees to water pipes. In the absence of certain experience, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. Now you can do the electrical part. If we're talking about About Thermex brand water heaters, they have one feature, which is the presence of a cable for connection along with a plug included. Moreover, this element is connected to the boiler. If this is not so, then consumables will have to be purchased separately.
And one more thing. To ensure that everything goes off without a hitch (read: without accidents), craftsmen strongly recommend observing safety precautions when working with electricity.
What else needs to be taken into account when carrying out work
If you are faced with the question of how to properly install a boiler, then you should know that you do not have to open the lid if everything in the equipment is already connected. It is enough to install a grounded outlet in advance, which should be located close to the equipment. You should turn on the cold water tap to check how tight and reliable connection. If there are no leaks, the boiler plug can be connected to the outlet. Now you know how to install. If you did everything correctly, the indicator on the case should light up. After this, you can set a certain temperature using the regulator, which is usually located at the bottom.
Conclusion
It is important to remember the main mistakes that are made when connecting the equipment described in the article. In particular, before installing a boiler in the bathroom, experts recommend making sure there is a circulation system. This will minimize energy losses if there is always hot water in the pipes.
Installing a water heater will provide owners country houses hot water, will increase the comfort of apartments from the old housing stock such as Khrushchev and small-family dormitories. The tireless unit will diligently prepare and supply water to the taps so that the owners can enjoy the benefits of civilization. This will happen if the diagrams for connecting the water heater to the water supply were followed exactly. You should know them, don’t you agree?
You will find comprehensive answers to a wide range of questions that arise before installing water heaters and in the process of connecting them to the communication network on our website. Reliable information will be useful as independent craftsmen those wishing to carry out the installation themselves. It is also necessary for customers of plumbing services who want to check the quality of the work ordered.
The article presented to your attention describes in detail the types of water heaters, identifying them design differences, the connection specifics are indicated. The author provides valuable advice that guarantees perfect job equipment after installation. The information content of the proposed material is perfectly complemented by photographs and video recommendations.
Features of connecting household heaters are directly related to the types of devices, their technical parameters, overall dimensions.
Traditionally, two types of heaters are used in household practice:
- Cumulative.
- Flow-through.
Both types of boiler systems differ from each other in heating technology.
Apparatus accumulative type, equipped with an electric heater (TEN). Such equipment is most often used in the domestic sphere. Can be mounted directly in the bathroom if overall dimensions allow
The first devices collect cold water into a container, heat it up and then discharge it for tapping. The second heats up directly during the flow of cold water in contact with the heater, without collecting liquid in a storage tank. Household consumers mainly use storage boiler systems.
Technical device of the storage boiler
A storage-type water heating system, boilers, in a simplified schematic form is a container equipped with electric heating elements or liquid heat exchangers. The storage vessel has pipe lines for cold water supply and hot water outlet.
More powerful and voluminous design - installation indirect heating. It is clear that the source of heating energy in in this case is the water coming from the heating system. However, if desired, it is possible to connect electric heating
The designs of indirect heating boilers are equipped with additional work area coolant and heating connection lines.
Any modern system, regardless design features, is equipped with automation, thanks to which the water heating temperature and the operation of the system as a whole are adjusted.
Structural design of heating devices
There are designs of storage boilers designed for installation vertically (wall-mounted) and horizontally (floor-mounted). Of course, each individual case of using certain boilers has its own installation features.
So, if wall mounting of a water heating device is planned, a preliminary calculation of the load and comparison of the results obtained with design parameters the wall of the room on which the device is to be mounted.
Instantaneous water heaters have been rapidly gaining popularity lately. Users are attracted by their small dimensions and the possibility of simplified, easy installation. Really convenient devices for low water consumption needs
Installing equipment without load calculations threatens to result in a fatal installation error, when a filled boiler can simply collapse along with the flimsy partition on which it was mounted.
According to the equipment instructions, the load must be calculated taking into account four times the weight of the boiler system. Therefore, if the structure of the supporting wall is frankly weak, the water heater circuit must be supplemented not only with connection lines to the water supply and coolant, but also with reinforced racks (through fastenings).
On classic boiler connection diagrams wall mounting The water supply/discharge pipes of heating devices are marked with the appropriate color (blue/red).
Installation diagrams and solutions
You can connect a heating device to the centralized supply in one of two ways - through a security group or directly.
A security group consists of a collection of the following elements:
- shut-off valve;
- check valve;
- safety valve;
- expansion vessel.
The first option (the presence of a safety group) is traditionally used on indirect heating boiler installations, and also when the pressure centralized system above the boiler operating pressure limit.
Classic scheme of indirect heating equipment. Two safety groups are used: 1 – boiler safety group; 2 – expansion vessel; 3 – boiler tank safety group; 6 – circulation pump heating; 7 – boiler circulation pump (+)
The second option is usually applicable to small-capacity equipment with a flow-through operating principle. Direct (without a safety group) connection is also allowed in conditions of lower and stable pressures of the centralized water supply. In any case, the installation diagram involves the installation of shut-off (cut-off) valves.
In order to be able to maintain and repair water heating equipment, it is equipped with shut-off valves at the entrance and exit from the system (+)
Criteria for error-free installation of equipment
Among the main installation points that you should pay attention to in order not to make mistakes are the correspondence of the diameters of the pipelines in relation to the inlet fittings, as well as the cross-section of the cable supplying the electric heater of the boiler.
The diameter of the supply pipes must ensure free flow of water along the inlet/outlet lines. That's why larger diameter hoses with a transition to the size of the fittings are still acceptable, but a cross-section of pipelines that is smaller than the inlet pipes of the boiler already seems like a gross mistake.
The cross-section of the supply cable shows a similar picture. It is not prohibited to use a cable with a larger cross-section, but it is strictly prohibited to use a cable with a smaller cross-section. True, a cable with a larger cross-section than the norm creates difficulties when laying in channels and takes up more free space. Here it seems logical to precisely select the wire cross-section depending on the load current.
The power socket is usually mounted directly next to the device. The installation height of the socket from the floor level is not less than 1.5 m. Domestic boilers are designed for single-phase power supply. alternating current 220-250 volts. The current load is usually at least 10A.
Connecting the boiler system via electrical diagram. This connection option can be considered made without error. The wire cross-section corresponds to that specified in the documentation, the grounding circuit is present
The exact value is determined by the heater performance and is indicated in technical documentation. It is for the specified current value that it is necessary to select circuit breaker.
For example, for flow-through heaters, the following current cut-off standards for automatic machines are relevant (table):
As a rule, all required connection parameters are specified in the instructions for the boiler. The user manual explains exactly all aspects of installation. Therefore, it is recommended that you carefully study the documents included with the device before installation.
Some features of the water supply scheme
Cold water is supplied to the boiler system through a pipeline that is connected directly to the centralized supply riser. In this case, a number of components necessary for normal functioning equipment:
- Stopcock.
- Filter (not always).
- Safety valve.
- Drain tap.
The indicated circuit elements are installed in the area between the cold water supply pipe and the boiler in the marked sequence.
The line for the outlet of heated liquid is also equipped with a shut-off valve by default. However, this requirement is not mandatory and if a tap is not installed at the DHW outlet, a serious mistake is not seen in this.
All water heater connection diagrams have common features. The cold water supply point is located at the bottom; filters and a reducer must be installed in front of it to reduce the flow pressure (+)
A simplified connection diagram compared to storage boilers is considered flow heater. Here it is enough to install only one shut-off valve in front of the cold water inlet fitting.
But the installation of a shut-off valve at the DHW outlet of a flow-through heater is considered by many manufacturers to be a gross installation error.
You should also take into account: if the source of cold water supply for an instantaneous water heater is a well, water tower etc., it is recommended to turn on the coarse filter in series with the tap (after the tap). Often, an installation error with connecting the filter (refusal to install) leads to loss of the manufacturer’s warranty.
Common mistakes in installing water heaters
The rules for installing such equipment provide for the use of insulation on cold water/hot water supply pipelines. At the same time technical requirements For installation, the minimum possible insulation thickness is determined - 20 mm. The level of thermal conductivity of the insulating material must be at least – 0.035 W/m2.
An example of insulating a heater system where obvious errors are noted. It is necessary to insulate not only the pipes, but also the operating components installed on the pipeline section. This is easy to do with modern insulating materials.
When installing water heaters, they often violate the connection diagram of the home unit to the water supply, using thin insulating material, or not using insulation at all.
As a result, when full operation of the device begins, significant losses of thermal energy are noted. These losses are reflected in the heating time, which increases significantly.
Incorrectly installed or missing insulation is main reason formation of condensate on the cold water line. This state of the system reduces the level of user comfort and contributes to the formation of an unsanitary environment inside the premises where the equipment is located.
A common mistake is to install a boiler without an expansion vessel. The scheme, which provides for the introduction of an expansion vessel, is relevant specifically for storage-type water heaters. Thanks to the expansion vessel, it is possible to compensate for the increase in pressure caused by the increase in the volume of water in the boiler storage tank.
Installed expansion tank in an indirect heating system. In fact, the installation of the expansion vessel was carried out with an error. This element of the system must be located above the line of the top cover of the boiler. In addition, there is no pipe insulation
As a rule, the installation of storage type heaters is limited to the inclusion of a safety valve in the cold water main section. This is a kind of replacement for an expansion tank safety valve acceptable, but from the point of view correct installation, this is a technical error.
In fact, on storage boilers you should always install an expansion vessel along with a check valve.
List of other installation errors:
- the electrical cable is laid on sharp metal edges or on high-temperature surfaces;
- the order of connecting the main lines does not correspond to the order indicated on the diagram;
- the level of installation of the water heater relative to the horizontal and vertical is violated;
- there is no grounding circuit for the water heating device;
- the parameters of the electrical network to which the equipment is connected do not meet the passport requirements;
- installation is carried out in a room where there is no water supply and drainage system.
Any, even insignificant, error in installing water heating equipment can play a fatal role after the device starts operating.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
From correct installation water heating devices depend on the operation of the hot water supply and heating system, so it is important to take into account all installation nuances. Some practical advice presented in videos.
Professional Tips:
It is always recommended to carefully monitor the progress installation work, guided by the accompanying installation documentation. Often, users install the system without bothering to look at the attached diagram. Connecting two water pipes and inserting a plug into a socket - such actions seem commonplace for them. But technology does not forgive mistakes.
An electric boiler is usually used to heat water needed for bathing and technical needs. This type of water heater, due to its small sizes can be installed anywhere: in the bathroom, on kitchen, toilet and even under the sink if the unit is a flow-through type. Next, we will look at where and how to properly connect the boiler to the electrical network with your own hands.
Scope of application of the water heater
People very rarely talk about using an electric boiler for heating, but such an option still exists. It is recommended to use it if the room does not have complex system heating, and the power of the unit is sufficient for normal operation (usually 1 kW can serve 10 sq.m.). In order for it to heat a small house, it is necessary to additionally install a circulation pump, otherwise hot water will not be able to effectively distribute through the radiators (there will not be enough pressure).
Please note that there are storage and flow-type devices. The first version of the electric boiler consumes less electricity for heating, but requires a certain place to place the container. The second option is more compact, but due to its increased power it consumes an order of magnitude more electricity.
Requirements for electrical installation work
So that readers of "" do not put their lives in danger and can easily connect an electric boiler to the network, we provide several simple rules things to consider:
- Be sure to turn off the power at the main panel during installation work.
- Connect wires only through terminal blocks or soldering. There should be no “grandfather’s” twists.
- Take care to protect the water heater and ground it. If in the house two-wire network, be sure to make a grounding system on the site. As for apartments of the old type - Khrushchev-era apartments, in which very often there is no grounding, here you can get out of the situation by connecting the boiler through an RCD and an automatic circuit breaker. You can also connect to the power grid through, which combines two types of protection. In the event that there is no “land” at the dacha, difficulties should not arise, because PE protection is not at all difficult to do yourself.
- Since water will pass near electrical appliances, take care of high-quality protection of electrical wiring from moisture. Buy sockets with a degree of protection of at least IP44, and the RCD must be in a waterproof housing.
- If the unit will be connected directly to the network (not through an outlet), use a non-flammable cable or its higher quality version - NYM.
- Mounting to the wall must be secure. Typically, the tank capacity can reach 100 liters. The thickness of the anchor in this case must be at least 8 mm. It is not recommended to install a boiler on a plasterboard wall. In this case, it is better to place the water heater on the floor.
Main process
Instructions for connecting the boiler to the electrical network will be provided from the point when the entire heating system is connected to the installation site of the unit. All that remains for you is to hang the water heater on the wall and connect it to the power supply.
Wall mount
Let's consider a more complex option when installing a storage type boiler will be used, because... installation of a walk-through water heater is less labor-intensive (due to the lighter weight and dimensions of the product). First you need to mark the wall in accordance with the placement of the fasteners. To do this, measure the distance required to install the mounting ears and transfer it to the wall. Be sure to use a building level so that the ears are placed strictly horizontally.
Any misalignment will affect the performance of the unit, and therefore its service life and efficiency of use. The tank must be placed perfectly level in both horizontal and vertical planes.
After marking, take a drill, drill holes in the wall and drive dowels into them. Next, we screw the anchor hooks into them and hang the boiler on the wall, as shown in the photo below.
Don't worry about decorative finishing walls Even if renovations have already been made in the apartment, with careful installation you will not damage the surface. Detailed instructions for installation and connection of the boiler wall type You can also see in the video example:
How to install a water heater on a wall
Connecting wires
Once the water heater is securely mounted on the wall, you will need to install the electrical wiring to it yourself. Let's consider two existing options connecting the wiring from the meter. 
Option 1 - Powered from a wall outlet
This option is used if the unit power does not exceed 3.5 kW. In this case, it is necessary to connect the socket to the place where the boiler is connected to the electrical network, as shown in the diagram above. The minimum cable cross-section should be 2.5 mm2. (copper conductors). It is recommended to carry out this in advance so that it can withstand the resulting loads. 
Option 2 - Power from the shield
If you purchased a device with a power of more than 3.5 kW, it is prohibited to use power from the outlet, because it simply will not withstand such a load. In this case, it is necessary to connect the cable to the water heater directly from the electrical distribution panel installed in the apartment or house.
Please note that connecting the boiler to single-phase network can be carried out if its power is no more than 4 kW. If the rated power is higher, the network must be three-phase (voltage 380 Volts).
After you decide on how to connect the boiler to electricity, you need to power the device yourself and move on to the next step. The video below discusses various schemes water heater connections:
Electrical installation diagrams
Setting up protection
Since when creating a heating system you will be dealing with powerful equipment, as well as the close location of water and current, you need to take care of protecting the boiler and yourself. 
First of all, you need to install a circuit breaker to the line that will serve the unit. If the power will be supplied from an outlet, it is recommended to install protective equipment on switchboard. In the event that the power will come directly from the shield, the protection devices must be located near the object itself so that its maintenance can be carried out conveniently and safely. Do not forget that when placing RCDs and AVs close together, it is necessary to ensure that the devices are protected from moisture. To do this, it is recommended to place the products in a sealed box.
In a 220 V network, it is necessary to connect the electric boiler through a two-pole circuit breaker. Remember important rule— the automation is installed with an upper connection of the input phase and zero.
First launch
When everything electrical installation work will be completed, you should proceed to starting up the equipment. The first step is to check everything and pipes for integrity and tightness. If no abnormalities are detected, you can proceed to turn on the power supply. To do this, first open the valves on the pipes (cold and hot circuits), after which you can turn on the machine and the RCD. We strongly recommend watching the video instructions, which clearly explain the entire process:
Video lesson: connection electric boiler to the network and pipeline
In conclusion
Installation and connection of an electric boiler for heating is recommended for small houses and apartments. In cottages and spacious private houses it is better to do this, because... it is more powerful and is able to heat the room more efficiently. If you are still determined to use of this type water heater, be sure to add a circulation pump to the system so that hot water passes under pressure into the radiators, thereby heating the rooms more efficiently.
Materials